I activated my cell phone at the TIM store on the Corso, we made the usual trek over to St. Peters where my friend, Seashell, had to do some
religious shopping for friends. We went into the Mondo Cattolico on Via Pio XII
where, of course, I got carried away and while waiting for her to shop I bought
a beautiful necklace and chain.

Another day we shopped on Via Coronari, which had a cute bead and glass store, Via Condotti where we window shopped and then darted in and out, buying boots and shoes,
the street next to Condotti, via Frattina had some nice shops too, such as Danielle for boots and some excellent shoes called Wonders Shoes, I put them on, bought them and wore them the rest of the trip, right out of the store . We made a point to
stop for coffee and snacks mid afternoon twice at the outdoor café, Vitto, on the Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. Very relaxing café and they serve really good pastry and caffe.
We went to Ottica Efrati by P. Spagna for designer sunglasses. The salesgirl goes out of her way to help the customer, giving truthful advice on which glasses look best, etc. She speaks excellent English and we loved her.

Some of the restaurants we enjoyed were

Le Streghe: I had discovered this place last year on my solo trip and love their food. This is the place where on a dark and stormy night I entered with tears from the cold wind in my eyes and wailed “I am a lone woman” in Italian to the perplexed owner. All I meant was I wanted a table for one. I guess that made me memorable because they remembered me on this trip and we became friendly with the family and we ate there often on this trip too. Artistic people are drawn there which makes it interesting. It is at Vicolo del Curate 13, closed on Sunday, tel: 066878182.

We ate at Orso 80 again, we took my friend, Sorrentino, there one day and he enjoyed the meat which we did not have. He didn’t complain but I think the appetizers were not as good as last March when we were there.

We went to a restaurant which seemed to be mentioned by Rick Steves in his book because every other diner, literally, had his book on the table in front of them. The owner
put us off a little by acting like a clown and overly friendly in a fake way, like it was what was expected of him. But, ignoring that bit, the soup was not very good but my pasta dish of cacao & pepe (pecorino cheese & black pepper over rigatoni) was excellent. It is called Osteria da Mario, with indoor and outdoor seating, a few blocks from the Pantheon on Piazza delle Coppelle 51. I could eat that pasta every day for the rest of my life, burrrp, excuse me.

Tre Scallini was nice, it wasn’t busy so the waiter sat with us for a while and chatted about Los Angeles and the USA in general.

Cantina del Vecchio on Via Coronari 31 was excellent. We had lunch there, not that expensive and the quality of food was so high and the service polite and constant. I could eat here every day too. Lots of locals.

A new gelateria opened on Via Coronari too, using all natural ingredients, at the corner of via Simone 70. I had the fresh fig gelato and it was excellent. It is open late at night and there is a cute area in a tiny garden outside.

We went to a concert of La Traviata at the Chiesa All Saints on via del Babuino 153 near the P. Spagna. It was really nice and we enjoyed the whole cast.

We used the map Streetwise Rome which is so good and such an improvement over the fold out paper ones. It is laminated and sturdier and compact enough so you can look at it
surreptitiously.


(to be continued)

I have to mention that an odd thing happened outside our apartment one night.
We were coming back about midnight and there was a woman standing on the side of the little street with a young child who was wearing a motorcycle helmet. All of a sudden the child started screaming, ran past Seashell, and started butting at me with her helmet. I mean that kid was strong. I held her at bay with my hand on her helmet and she was flailing about waving her arms like she was trying to hit me. The mother said a few words but didn’t do anything else to stop this. I maneuvered the child by its helmet over to the bicycle and let go, she came at me again, hitting my knee hard. This time I not so gently got the kid back over to the mother and left them. We went to our door with the kid still screaming at me. What an odd scene to say the least.

We were to leave our apartment for the next leg of our trip on a Sunday, but this day was also a day when a strike was promised. On Saturday, I called every train related place I could to get some information before we schlepped all the way from our apartment to the station. No answers, no one knew, some said maybe, some said no, some said nothing and hung up. I checked web sites to no avail. I called the owner of our rental agency, he said it was a shot in the dark, just to go to the station and if we could not leave town to come back to the apartment for another night. I called the apartment owner and he graciously said if we had to return he would meet me to let us back in (we were to leave the keys on the counter when we left). He said that one faction of train personnel may strike and that is why no one could tell me ahead of time. The strikers probably didn’t even know for sure, he said. He also said, “This is Italy, what can I say, I am sorry” And he was a Roman.

Come to find out there was no strike so we stood underneath the electric score board at Termini watching for our binario (track). Ten minutes to go and all the other trains were listed but not ours. Hmmm. Seven minutes…..I said I would run over to the Info Room and ask. Now days they only let one person in at a time so I waited my turn and then went in and stood in front of the clerk. The man kept writing. La di da, I waited ….then I said to the top of his head, do you speak English? He didn’t lift his eyes but said no this is Italy I speak Italian. I said, Oh, well, does this man speak English? He said no he is Italian too. He didn’t seem to care that this was a ridiculous conversation in English!! Still talking to the top of his head I asked in pidgin Italian if he knew the train’s track yet. He said a number and I left. Back underneath the board, I saw this same agent walk by us and I blew him some kisses, his shoulders hunched up and he gave me a hate look. Seashell said what are you doing? You didn’t used to be so cheeky. We saw our train come up on the board and the tracks kept changing! Right before our eyes, numbers rolling and intermitently stopping and starting. Seashell said, well I guess your Info Friend is manipulating the track information. Finally it settled on one and she said I bet he is watching us and as soon as we walk away he will switch it again. I hope not! We ran over to the track and I was pondering if I was becoming too cheeky.

Now the fun started. I put my ticket into the yello(or is it orange) machine to get stamped, it went berserk and stamped it about 10 times. The crowd waiting to stamp their own tickets backed away in horror and ran over to the other machine, en masse . Seashell ran over there too. I waited and an attendant in a perky orange vest came over to me and I asked him if the multi stamps were a problem, he said no problem it is ok, I will escort you to the proper place to stand for your car. He put us in one spot and then a few minutes later came back to maneuver us down a bit and told us to stay there. The train was late so he resituated us a few more times, like he was playing with paper dolls, it was nice of him.

Hi there SeaUrchin

Loving your report so far!

About that pillow.. the picture shows it being smaller than a regular pillow like you'd have in a hotel. Is that how it is? Looks comfy to put over the airline pillow, tho. I think I'll order one!

Unbelievable story about the kid with the helmet. Wonder what that was all about?

Cheeky SeaUrchin - love it!

Sounds like the kind of disturbed child who routinely tries to injure himself by banging his head, hence the helmet to protect him.

I'm guessing the mother, like many parents of disturbed children, didn't do more because the behaviour can be unremitting and go on all day long; they just get exhausted.

That said, I'm sorry about your knee. As a child, I spent a lot of time in the company of the disturbed son of family friends. Much of that time I spent terrified: the child was older and bigger than me and was in the habit of putting me in a choke hold. Only as an adult can I look back and sympathize.

Sounds like a great trip otherwise!

Was this recently? Loving it
but when?

Hi, thanks for the encouragement.

I didn't mention the child had been standing by the mother's bike so that is why, I assume, she had on the helmet, I guess they had been riding home at midnight? Afterwards, I did feel sorry for the child but something was just not right with the whole scene.

We went in late September and early October of this year.

could have been a scam?

SeaUrchin,

I always love your reports! I'm not up on all the Piazza names in Rome like you are, so it P. Spagna the one at the bottom of the steps? If so, I bought some sunglasses at that shop too. The owner is a Texas native who married a Roman and has lived there for about 25 years. (I'm jealous) Their children a boy and girl attended college in Texas. got some great sunglasses there - hate to say it but they were Tommy Bahamas! The only ones that fit...

Hi SeaUrchin

I'm glad you decided to post a report.

I love Le Streghe, too. It is just around the corner from an apartment I rented on my first trip to Rome. My sister and I had dinner there one cold night in November, and it was so good.

Strange incident with the kid, though. Not sure what to make of that.

Johanna

Great stories so far.

Love the comment "This is Italy, what can I say."

SU, quite amusing! You seem to have similar experiences that I have had in Roma in years past-like the clownish restaurant owner-yeah, I recognize that! By the way, the Via Coronari is one of the best places to window shop, and to buy antiques and ceramics. I bought this lovely hand-painted ceramic jug back in the 80's on that street and I still have it and love it.

But that devil child scene! At midnight! Something was CLEARLY NOT RIGHT THERE! Not gypsies-or a scam in the making? Really, that's creepy, and I would have been quite a bit less forgiving of such behavior than you, I think! You know they have the "baby gangs" 5 year old urchin/devils who steal your wallet and then quickly flee going back to mama, who protects them and rewards them-these "baby borseggiatori" have been roaming around Rome and Venice for the past year or so, and the Carb are starting to go after them in a big way in the Veneto area.

Those shoes you bought-Wonders Shoes-were they Italian?

thanks!

Kopp I think the pillow would fit over a regular sized hotel pillow but I just put mine on top, it makes it doubly soft.

Dayle, don't feel bad, I ended up buying Ray Bans! They are cute with gold frames! LOL Yes, it is near the "Spanish Steps", I like that area from there on over to Popolo.

Gracie, isn't it great? Did you try the cod patties with pine nuts? OMG

Girlspy, I would have loved to have purchased some antiques on Coronari, one of these days. I bet you love that jug.

About that odd midnight incident, on afterthought I do think the kid was being trained and coached. I felt a little bad(ly?) that I was a little rough but how long is the accepted time to be butted and almost scratched by a little brat. If it was just a neighborhood child, I really wonder about the parenting in that family.

Glad you liked the report so far!

Oh the Wonders Shoes! I googled them and I think they may be Australian. I want more.

Good work..will stay tuned for more!

Looking forward to more! Thanks.

Mornin' Cheeky

Were the "trash men" still in the P. Popolo? On first glance, I thought it was rather bizarre and trashy, lol, but seeing the photos of where it had traveled was interesting (Great Wall, Red Square, Zermatt, etc.) My fave was the Coke man (hubby is a Coke-a-holic).

Hi SeaUrchin,

the shoes are spanish. I find them a bit hard, not such a soft leather as Hispanitas, but there are some cute ones.

www.wonders.com

Rgds, Cova

Mornin' all, since I love the Wonders I should try the Hispantas, thanks. I saw some exhibit in Popolo but we were busy eating some really good pizza and vino at Canova's before the Traviata.

Here's some more "adventures":

Now the confusion started. The train came in, we positioned ourselves near the doors while some of the people started to exit. Then I hear the beeps of some kind of machine, I looked up and here comes a fork lift aimed right at us and just a few feet away and he was not stopping! I jumped one way and Seashell jumped the other, the driver stopped in between. He had a man in the basket who looked very much like Phil Spector in his wild hair days, then I saw that he was on crutches.

Since I was nearest the train I tossed in my luggage and got on, my orange vested angel waved and left and I tended to my luggage which had tipped over. It was quite a scene when I looked back through the door way. The fork lift driver was trying to maneuver the basket near to the top of the steps so the man could enter, people were still trying to get to the next car and people were still trying to get on, they were coming in from the other car and under the forklift’s basket and luggage was everywhere. It was quite a mess. People were tripping over their luggage and kneeling on the floor, others were yelling. I could see Seashell on the other side of the fork lift.

I pulled my luggage into the aisle and I could see at the other end of the car that another mini scene was happening, women seemed to be fussing over something or someone in the corridor. (it was a compartment car).

In a bit, I saw two women coming down the aisle, young women and one had a baby on her hip. They were checking seat numbers on the walls. They came up to me and said madam, madam your luggage is in the way, we cant get past. I pulled my luggage closer to the side. One of the women started patting my luggage and saying we will help you move it. Hmmm, this isn’t normal, my Fodorite like brain kicked in. These women were trying to scam me. Lordy be, who needs this. I said no I don’t want help, get away from me. they kept nudging, I said get away and looked the older one in the eye. I have to say at this point I did notice she was wearing a beautiful 24k gold filigree necklace with matching earrings and bracelet. Under different circumstances I would have complimented her on her jewelry. She said something to the younger woman and they left me.

I looked back at the scene behind me and saw they were approaching Seashell, I yelled to her to watch out but she didn’t hear me. She was pinned against the wall in the vestibule. The handicapped man, who had no use of his legs, was toppling over and no one was helping him. People were lifting their suitcases over their heads and I could barely make Seashell out in the fray.

Finally she broke free and approached me, dragging her luggage. I asked why is your purse open! She looked and her purse was unzipped, her inside wallet was unzipped and her cash was missing!

She said the women approached her and one of them asked her to push the button so they could go into the other car, she did and within the second that it took, they had robbed her purse. If those women ever went legit they could be famous as a Las Vegas lounge act, they are very talented in what they do. I could be their manager….

We found our compartment and she told the people already seated and they just shook their heads in dismay. We wondered why people without tickets were even allowed on the train and mused that they should make some new rules, yeah right.

Our train took off, I hated to see Seashell’s unhappy face but she held up ok. The conductor looked at my multi stamped ticket and hesitated, then let it go. I was a bit surprised at this as we both have train issues where everything seems to go wrong.

I am getting very strong visuals. Who is going to play Sea Urchin in the movie? And who is going to play the guy falling out of the forklift?

OhmiGod, SU, that's awful! You know, that's why I say always always when you are in Rome and Florence you must have your pickpocketing radar on at all times. Did Seashell have a lot of money stolen? Credit cards? And was her passport in her purse as well? That is a rotten way to start out your vacation. Although I had my wallet stolen in Florence ten years ago, and the thief ran up my credit cards immediately, so I know what it's like.

Oh, I hope only cash went missing, not the cards or passport!

The cards and cash were in the same wallet but she picked out only the cash. It is amazing how she did all of this so fast, Seashell's purse was high across her chest as she boarded the train so she would have her hands free to lift the luggage. After this I convinced her to wear a security wallet, she had never been targeted before and this time she did lose 500 euro.

Some more:

We arrived in Rapallo and found a taxi to our hotel. What a lovely place! It reminded me
of the French Riviera. We checked into our hotel, the Nuova Riviera in Santa Margherita and met the family owners, very nice people, very pleasant and accommodating during our whole trip. They went out of their way to serve nice breakfasts with eggs and in giving us various directions and advice. We were shown the annex, I had the room with the balcony and Seashell had the garden room, both on the same floor and very nice for the money. The next morning Seashell said, Oh I woke up to birds singing in the garden and I said Oh I woke up to delivery men at the grocery. But that only happened that first day, thankfully.

During this stay of almost two weeks in this area, we visited some interesting places. In Porto Fino, we dined at the restaurant named Puny’s because who could pass up a place with that name. Food was very good to excellent and excellent service. The only small downside was that the waiter whispered that the tip is not included when he delivered the check.

At Puny’s, we sat near some Spanish yachtsters who had one of the largest yachts in the harbour (!) and we joined their group (at their request). The strolling guitarist strolled by and one of the ladies of the group asked him for his guitar and she started playing the most beautiful music and sang the most beautiful songs. Even the paid musician sat with us to listen to her. It was just such a wonderful moment in time, here we were in Portofino, a place I have heard about all my life and never visited, having wonderful food and wine, sitting outdoors with the most friendly and joyous group of people and listening to this Spanish ángel canta and play the guitar. Heaven on Earth. It was sunny and warm with gentle breezes from the bay. If it wouldn’t have left a bruise I would have pinched myself.

We went by ferry to the abbey of San Fruttuoso (15th Century) and thought we were going to see the statue of Christ under the water, but they were charging 17 euro to see it and more euro to go into the abbey and it was hot that day, we were hungry so we got back on the ferry. I guess we should have paid for the experience in hindsight. I took a photo of the water and it did look like a statue underwater but not in the place where it really is.

We went to Cinque Terre and walked the trails. We were told by Christine at our hotel that there are often robbers on the trains and trails there and not to take more money than we needed and not to wear flashy jewelry and not to take the last train back. I was surprised at this, but she said she only knows because she has to help so many patrons cancel their credit cards, etc. Interesting.

We walked between Manarola and Riomaggiore on the Amore/Lover’s Lane trail. It is a nice strolling trail. We stopped at the best place for wine along the route, I think it is called Café Amore, we had wine, caffe and Nona’s torte, very good, sitting right on the edge of the trail with only an iron mesh below us.

In Riomaggiore we stopped and spent a long time on the cliffside bar named Bar & Vini.
It has the best views ever! We watched the sun set and just enjoyed a relaxing day in the life. The local wines were very good to excellent whites. Good thing I started sampling after the walk. I liked Forlini Cappellini Cinque Terre the best. I could have stayed here for days.

SeaUrchin -

I am very much enjoying your trip report. Please continue . . .

500 EURO!!! How terrible! That's a huge amount of money to lose, but at least she didn't lose her passport and credit cards also.

I love trains, but as your experience shows, just getting onto the train itself can be quite a feat. That train worker was quite a character huh - I probably would have thought he was messing up the board also

Seaurchin, I just caught up with your trip report, so I did have a couple of questions from your earlier entries:

1. You mentioned water in a gallon plastic bag for the plane - did you mean bottled water?

2. Do you remember the name of the gelateria on Via Cononari? I love that they use all natural ingredients - did you guys try any other flavors?

Thanks, I will have to wait until tommorow to add more! Glad you are enjoying it.

I pull out a gallon bag from my carryon that has my snacks and things already packed in it and then use it as sort of a pocket to keep all my everything together. I add the water bottle after security of course. I put it in the seat pocket and after the flight I zip it back up with what is left and put it back in the carryon.

I will have to look for the name of the gelateria, I know I kept a napkin! We tried the best natural vanilla and some other of the fruits. The counterman was so nice and patient with some loud tourists. We waited until they left and then he graciously gave us some samples.

Hi SeaUrchin, Italy is an adventure is it not? And Rome is more and more a workout. I am so enjoying your trip report!

A question; what does a Hindu vegetarian meal consist of?

SU, Yeahhhhhhhhhhhh I've been waiting to read your post about Italy. I am so enjoying it.

I checked out the pillow. It looks very comfy. I am a pillow freak. I carry my (cancun) pillow everywhere, always. I put on several layers of pillow cases and peel them off after each use. Works out perfect.

Keep them funny stuff coming.

Theresa in Detroit.

I found the name of the Gelateria. It is Gelateria del Teatro Ai Coronari at vua di S. Simone 70. Phone 0645474880. Enjoy!

The Hindu meal is vegetables, garbanza beans in a light curry sauce served over basmati rice, salad, naan and fruit. Lufthansa doesn't add meat and Swiss seems to, but I pushed it aside.

Mamaw, I always enjoy your reports too, in fact I have looked for Henry Cow and never found it.

The rest of the trip:

One evening at dusk on that Cinque Terre train, a crazed man entered and started screaming and leaping around the seats near us. There were a few more people, an African vendor and a British couple, in the car with us and we all sat in hushed silence waiting for something to happen. Well, not the African, he was chuckling and shaking his head. No one else moved. I said to Seashell of course he got into our car and she said of course. See how we are? So negative in our train dramas we probably attract the oddballs. He started taking off his clothes. OK lets get out of here. We went to another car and could see through the doors that he did take off his clothes, bundled them up and then got off the train at the next exit and ran down the street. Okey dokey.

Another day we took the train to La Spezia because of my happy memories there. Well, the city is much seedier now than when I was there over 25 years ago, we had lunch at Ristorante Trittico Pizzeria on via Cavallotti 62 which was very good and inexpensive in innovative décor, then we left the town.

In SML we enjoyed Emilios right in town on P. Martiri della Liberta. The best best best pasta!! Great service and excellent fish dishes in a cute setting on the bay.

Gennaros in the same area was good one night and then served a horrible frozen-like pizza the next night.

Ristorante da Michele on Amendola 17, was soo good and consistantly so. We ate there a few times. It has an upscale feeing about it with indoor and outdoor dining, but still affordable. Everything we had here was excellent. Try the pesto and the shellfish.

Ristorante a Lampara on Via Maraglilano 33 was another excellent restaurant. The soup was delicious, the pasta and fish dishes excellent too. Try the poached pear for dessert! OMG. Great family owned and run restaurant on a side street. Many locals enjoying the quality food.

We spent each evening, when we were back in town on time, in the park by the sea for the passiagiata. After a few days we started to recognize people and they in return acknowledged us. We met quite a few people and petted their dogs and talked with them as the sun set. After a while we were on a first name basis with people such as Nora the Dog and her owner Mario. It was funny but at exactly 6:45 they would all return to their homes and we sat on until the full sunset before we freshened up for dinner.

Such good restaurants there, we only had the one bad meal. Fresh fish was brought ashore every afternoon and the restaurateurs would be there to pick out their evening’s fare. We laughed at ourselves when we started going over to the dock when we saw the ship came in, Seashell said do you realize we are coming over here every day to look at dead fish. Yes, I guess so, funny.

My birthday lunch was at the Imperiale Palace Hotel, lovely grounds, food and service.

We met a sweet sincere lady who ran one of the stores in town and we had happy times talking about the area and how it “used to be” She is at Al Castello, a cute little souvenir shop. I could be friends with her in real life.

We went to a classical guitar concert at the Villa Durazzo which is right in town on a hill in its 17 century park grounds. The music was exquisite, so serene and professionally played. It was Goran Krivokapic from Belgrad playing and I loved his musical choices.

The next day we went to the park grounds and to celebrate being alive (we both had our birthdays on this trip), we posed in silent screen era poses by some of the statues, just to be silly. We stopped, though, when we saw what we thought was a werewolf sunning himself on a bench, his hair was perfect. I have to say it is a good thing we saw him in the daylight as we had walked these same grounds the night before, after midnight. Although, it was probably just a man with that condition, it is not something you see everyday in a wooded park!

The last day in SML we ordered a limo to take us over to Rapallo for the train back to Roma. The nicest man drove us, we laughed and talked the whole time, so long that he
took our luggage to the tracks and waited with us until the train came. I gave him my card and we have kept in touch. I have been playing a CD of this excellent singer we heard in his car, Biagio Antonacci, titled Vicky Love. If you like a good looking Italian singing love songs this is for you.

We got back to Roma Termini late and took a taxi over to the Hilton at the airport, we had a late snack and drinks, talking to some other tourists from Seattle. We all laughed and talked about our experiences, they were on their second honeymoon and their first trip to Europe. It was interesting to get their takes on Italy. We experience the good and the bad with open minds and humor after visiting all these years but they had different views as first time visitors..

We rearranged our luggage, called in an early wake up call and toddled over to the Swiss check in early the next morning.

On the plane I kept up another game with another passenger and the time flew. Seashell’s luggage didn’t arrive with her, it stayed in Zurich for a few days and then caught back up with her at her home. All in all another wonderful trip!

Here is the guitarist's website, if you love guitar you will love him:

http://www.gorankrivokapic.net/website.php

SeaUrchin,

I know we were friends in another life! My best friend and I did silly poses with the statues at the Palazzo in SML too! We missed Warewolf Man, though! What a great trip you had and I love the mini-adventures. Just remind me NOT to get on a train with you, bella!

You always have the most wonderful and interesting trip reports SeaUrchin! And you know how special SML is to me. And the man disrobing on the train..OMG...too funny!

SU-sounds like a great trip-funny, I've never had any train adventures like you've had-that was pretty hilarious about the man taking off his clothes and then getting off the train! Hope Seashell had a good time in spite of the awful beginning!

Seaurchin,

Thanks so much for looking for the gelateria address! I just told my DS your hilarious train story, and we couldn't stop laughing - although I'm sure it was funnier after said crazy man wasn't near you

Glad you enjoyed the report!

Dayle, I think the statues are just begging for someone to interact with them! Good for you, sometimes being silly is half the fun!

Seashell said she would just have to let it go if she was going to enjoy the rest of the trip, and, thankfully she was able to.

We saw the guy on the platform as we pulled up in the train, I could have bet right then that he would get into our car. He was hopping around and waving his arms wildly.
He was going beyond silly! Waay beyond.

SeaUrchin, glad you decided to write the report. Wow, you do have interesting times on trains! Sorry Seashell lost so much to the thief. I'll have to check out that gelato in February. Always nice to get new suggestions for eating and shopping! Sounds like a great trip.

SeaUrchin;

I was so bummed to read the last of your post, I just want it to go on and on. I live through your trips. And get cheecky all you want baby!

I rummaged through my Italy stuff and found the card from Henry Cow (not that's italian) I am drooling thinking about that meat sauce. And smiling thinking of the Waitress U, she said just call her hey U. Not on my soil sweetie.

Henry Cow
via flavia 59/61
fax 06484823

It's a small street that runs in the same direction as Via XX Settembre. It's right around the corner from that lovely Hotel we stayed at Empire Palace Hotel.

Have a great night. I have been staying at my Daughter's house. My Grandbaby has strep (?) and she's been so sick. I'd do anything to be sick and not her

Thanks for all the laughs.

Your friend in Detroit, Theresa

Oh SeaUrchin, how I do so love your trip report, just reread this one. Had already made note of most of your restaurants from your previous trip. We depart in 12 days.

Cheers, love. And thank you again for your always entertaining ways.

Thanks! I appreciate it. Where will you be visiting on this trip?

10 relaxing days full of wandering in bella Roma.

Sea Urchin: What a wonderful report and you with such good humor after that awful train incident. I will be saving the restaurant recommendations for SML, you can be certain!

So, the Rome train goes to Rapallo. But there must be another train line passing through SML, correct? Would this one go to La Spezia? (Just asking in case we do firm up our trip and decide to fly into Pisa..)

I am also interested in the Hindu veg meal choice: Do you always order these (I see that you are not a vegetarian!) and if so, what do they often consist of?

Thanks again for taking the time to write this!