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Scotland-Looking for itinerary advice for 9 day trip

Scotland-Looking for itinerary advice for 9 day trip

Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 11:31 AM
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Scotland-Looking for itinerary advice for 9 day trip

I’m starting to plan for 9 days in Scotland for August 2017 and I could really use some help with the itinerary. I wish we had more time, but we already have flights to London from the US, so unfortunately our dates aren’t flexible. Because August is such a busy travel time, I’d like to get as much as possible booked now.

A little about us; we are in our late 40’s, well-traveled, but this will be our first time in Scotland. We’re interested in the focusing on the Highlands and probably Skye for this visit. We’d love to see castles, standing stones, beautiful scenery, villages, do some nice hikes/walks etc. (yeah, all the usual things). We love to eat well, and enjoy drinking Scotch Whisky so we’d like to visit some distilleries. We’d like to stay in a castle for a night, but I’ve yet to find any I like that aren’t crazy expensive in August. I’m a huge fan of the Outlander book series (haven’t seen the show) so any sights related to that would be bonus.

We enjoy taking the train but are also willing to rent a car or do both. We live in the US, so my husband is a bit nervous about driving on the left, but he’s willing.
The biggest question I have is about a car rental because it could determine a good chunk of the itinerary. We’d like to end the trip in Fort William so we can catch the Caledonian sleeper car train back to London (see Day 9 below). Our options seem very limited other to rent a car from Fort William and return it there (no one way drop offs that I can find).
Should we make our way to Fort William by train and then rent a car from there for just our time on Skye?
Should we go to Skye first with the car, drop it after Skye, and then make our way back to FW later without a car?
Should we go directly from Edinburgh to FW and get the car for the whole 6 days?

This is what I have so far:
Day 1 Arrive London (LHR) at 7am, get to Edinburgh (most like catch connecting flight, but have also considered the train).
I've booked 2 nights using hotel points to mitigate the already crazy expense of hotels in Edinburgh during “festival season”. We will be there during Fringe and Tattoo and last night I bought tickets to the Tattoo so we are committed to going to Edinburgh on these days now.

Day 2- Edinburgh

Day 3, 4 and 5-Open. Here is where I need some guidance.

Day 6 and 7-Skye- somewhere

Day 8- Skye-Here I am thinking of one night at Kinloch Lodge which has a lovely looking Michelin starred restaurant. It's pricey, but if we don't find a castle, it will be our splurge. It’s on the south end of Skye and we could easily drive to Fort William next day.

Day 9 - What to do either on Skye or near Fort William prior to dropping the car off in the late afternoon on this day? I’ve heard there’s not much in Fort William itself.
Take the overnight train back to London departing from Fort William at 7:50 pm arriving in London around 8am the next day. As I said, we like trains and we really want to do this overnight back to London. There is a similar train from Inverness, but I’ve read the route from Fort William is supposed to be beautiful and hopefully there will be enough light due to the sun setting later in summer to enjoy a bit of it.

Day 10- London, hotel already booked

Day 11- Our flight leaves London at 4pm, back to US.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 11:47 AM
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Should we make our way to Fort William by train and then rent a car from there for just our time on Skye?>

You could take the sleeper train London to Inverness and then take a very scenic train to Kyle of Lochlash for buses to Skye- rent a car there but not needed as buses scoot everywhere.

then leave Skye by a southern port ferry to Maillag where you can take the West Highlands dramatically scenic railway to Ft William and on.

In case you do not want to drive. For lots on British trains check www.nationalrail.co.uk; www.budgeteuropetravel.com ; www.seat61.com and www.ricksteves.com.

A car would let you of course chose your own routings and make those whisky places easier to get to.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 01:02 PM
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Why are you spending time in London when all your interests are in Scotland?

If it was me I'd skip London entirely, fly to Glasgow or Edinburgh (via LHR, AMS or CDG if there are no non stop flights) from your local aiprort to Scotland. Pick up your car once you leave Edinburgh (at the airport), tour Scotland then fly home from Scotland.

No one ever sleeps on overnight trains. You wake up feeling rough, in need of a shower; best avoided. Unless there's a reason to spend time in London it seems wasteful.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 01:06 PM
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No one ever sleeps on overnight trains.>

simply not true in most cases - I've taken literally hundreds of overnight trains and always folks in my shared compartment seem to sleep - lots of snorers can attest to that.

Some folks may have sleeping problems and should avoid night trains as there is always some noise from inside and outside the train.

If you go first class on Caledonian Sleepers with a private compartment those are IME very very comfy - breakfast served in bed in morning. "Tea or coffee"?
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 01:27 PM
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I haven't read the whole post - am dashing out. But I did get as far as taking the train from Ft William to London -- WHY?

If you want to take a sleeper you can catch one in Inverness, Glasgow, or Edinburgh . . . All of which have several national/international rental agencies where you can collect/drop your car . . . and do a one way rental.

You really (REALLY) will want a car for more than just Skye . . . But I'll be back later w/ more. (a sleeper train is just one of several good options for travel to London - it might or might not make sense for you)
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 02:21 PM
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Ok, let me try to answer questions...

PalenQ- I can't take the train directly to Inverness because we have reservations and now tickets for the Tattoo in Edinburgh on the two days after we arrive. However, I'm not adverse to going to going that direction after Edinburgh.

Sofarsogood- We are only spending one night in London because as I said at the top, that's where the tickets we've already purchased fly into. We found a $508 RT from the US for August (which is crazy low) and I bought them a month ago without knowing where we'd go from there. Scotland was decided on later.
As I also said, we like taking trains, so that's why we are planning on the overnight in a sleeping compartment.

janisj- from Fort William because it's one of the longest overnights and the most visually interesting. The timing will allow us to get on the train and have dinner and enjoy the trip. If we leave from Glasgow or Edinburgh, the trains depart at 11pm, and there's no fun in that. ;-) Inverness is the other option, yes. I suppose we could take the car in a big loop from Edinburgh to Inverness with Skye in the middle and do a one way drop off that way.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 02:38 PM
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>>janisj- from Fort William because it's one of the longest overnights and the most visually interesting.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 02:48 PM
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OK -- First because of the crowds and 'hectic-ness' of Edinburgh I'd try to stay 3 nights.

Then I'd get a car at EDI as you leave the city, drive out to Skye w/ one night at Glencoe en route. Stay on Skye maybe 3 nights (no need to even stop in Ft William).

Then one night in/near Inverness to see Culloden, Clava Cairns etc. Drop car and take the sleeper from Inverness to London.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 07:12 PM
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Janisj-I'd love to have three nights in Edinburgh, but I don't think that's going to be financially possible this time. Rates are crazy, and even the amount of points I'm spending is more than I'd like.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 07:35 PM
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Then you can do two nights in Edinburgh, one night in the Trossachs (like Callander) or in Glencoe, 3 on Skye, and two near Inverness (there is more than enough in the area to fill a week let alone two nights)
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 07:50 PM
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Please note that the train from Fort William to Glasgow does not offer dining. You will also have to change trains in Glasgow from Queen Street to Glasgow Central. It's about a 10/15 walk but here is a shuttle. I doubt they have dining on the Glasgow to London route either. I believe there is often a 90 minute wait at Glasgow Central.

I feel like sofarsogood in regard to sleeper trains...they sound great but the reality is much different. Spend day 9 getting close to Edinburgh or even stay in Glasgow. Return car if you haven't done so. Morning of day 10 take the train to London.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 08:19 PM
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>>Spend day 9 getting close to Edinburgh or even stay in Glasgow. Return car if you haven't done so. Morning of day 10 take the train to London.) it would be a highlight ) I would take Glasgow or Edinburgh.

Different topic: You say you are using points in Edinburgh -- just curious which points . . . which hotel. Most of the international chain hotels are not located in central Edinburgh

Add'l different topic: Re the one night in London -- have you pre-paid, non refundable or spent points that are non-restorable??? If not, since your flight out of LHR is not until 4 PM you could very easily fly to LHR that morning from either GLA or EDI - only a 1 hour flight. That would save you an unwanted/expensive night in London. I wouldn't recommend this if your flight home was in the morning.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 08:23 PM
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I had the same thought on London booking. If you can cancel free of charges just fly into LHR the morning of departure. A 4:00 pm departure allows you time to do that.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 08:28 PM
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oops -- should say >>I would take the train from Glasgow or Edinburgh
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 08:41 PM
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Yes, I'm not sure I was clear on that point. Whether you take the train from Inverness or Fort William you will have to change at either Glasgow or Edinburgh. Just easier to take the train from G. or E.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 06:28 AM
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I know you said you love trains but honestly I think flying both ways (LHR-EDI-LHR) is preferable given your tight time frame. It will save time-consuming trips into or from central London, and internal flights are often cheaper than the train. If you had more time to enjoy the West Highland Line or the main east coast line between Edinburgh and London (with stops in Durham and/or York) then I'd say fine, go for it. But you don't.

As I've said on other threads, I understand the appeal of Skye, but IMO focusing on Skye for that long means you're not seeing things elsewhere in the Highlands and Islands that you might find equally or more interesting, or landscapes more beautiful or villages more appealing.

In August Skye is very popular with people from all over Europe as well as Britain, North America... Comparatively speaking, other parts of the western or northern Highlands, or some of the other islands, might give you a less - what's the word? - competitive? stay.

For example (and just one of several examples) the area north of Skye - from Plockton to Applecross, Torridon and Ullapool - is an area of stunning scenery with (usually) a fraction of the volume of visitors that you'll encounter on Skye.

Or much farther south, you could easily fill your wish list of castles, standing stones, picturesque villages etc. by visiting Mull instead of Skye. Look (use the google or www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk ) at Duart Castle, Tobermory, and Iona, Kilmartin with its remarkable collection of prehistoric sites - standing stones, stone circles, burial cairns, carved grave slabs, etc., and Inveraray (picturesque village, grandiose castle, great seafood.)

Not trying to confuse the issue; you still have plenty of time to plan.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 07:34 AM
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Gardyloo has made some very good points. I agree.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 08:14 AM
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re Gardyloo's post: It just seems most North Americans think Skye is a 'must' and no trip to Scotland is complete w/o it (along w/ Loch Ness and the Jacobite train - not relevant to this trip). It may simply be those are places people have heard of.

Skye is wonderful, absolutely -- but the best part of Scotland? It is just one of 20 or 30 'best parts'. Is it better than St Abbs, or the Aberdeenshire coast, or Applecross, or the far SW, or Deeside, or Glencoe, or Mull . . . etc.

One thing to consider -- Skye is a looooong way to go if you end up there during hellacious rain. I traveled to Skye 3 times before I saw a darned thing . . . But oh, that third trip was glorious!!!

Not to confuse matter too awfully much - but why do you want to visit Skye? Do you have a family connection? Is there a specific thing(s) you want to see? or - is it that you assumed Skye is 'the' place to go.

If someone has 3 or 4 weeks then spending 3 or 4 days on Skye is certainly close to a must, but w/ less than a full week (after Edinburgh) - in August - we are just saying there are other options.

Just things to consider/think about . . .
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 09:53 AM
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If you must take a sleeper (I personally wouldn't - but for train spotters like PQ it would be a highlight ) I would take Glasgow or Edinburgh>

Have you ever taken a Caledonian Sleeper train? I have a few times and found it very nice (first cl private compartment) but not everyone will find it so -always some noise from inside and outside the train - light sleepers should eschew overnight trains IMO.

but a day time train ride to Edinburgh at least one way would be nice too to see the lay of the land - the East Coast Lineis very scenic Newcastle to Edinburgh -right along the coast much of the way.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 10:19 AM
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>>Have you ever taken a Caledonian Sleeper train? I have a few times>the East Coast Line is very scenic Newcastle to Edinburgh -right along the coast much of the way.
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