MickiMc

Once again I have the opportunity to visit Scotland and I would really appreciate feedback on my itinerary from the travelers in Fodorland. My mother and I spent a couple of weeks there in May 2001 and now I’m returning, this time with my sister, the last two weeks in September. As usual with my vacation planning I try and cram way too much into the allotted time. I’ve done various web searches, including Fodor’s (thanks Sheila), and have come up with a tentative itinerary. During my last visit to Scotland I attempted driving but ended up returning the car the second day because driving on the left was much more difficult than I expected. And, I wanted to reduce the odds of killing myself or others. Because of this experience we are limited this time to train/bus/taxi/hired guides. Could you take a look and make suggestions? Is there something I’ve not thought of? I’ve already purchased plane tickets and made B&B reservations for our stay in Edinburgh Sat-Wed evening. Our total Scotland stay is Sep 15th – Sep 29th.

Day 1 (Sat): Arrive Edinburgh airport Sep 15th around 3 p.m. After getting settled at B&B in New Town walk to Princess Street and take a bus tour of the city to get oriented, climb Scott monument. Dine in the evening near B&B at Stac Polly, Magnum’s or Bellini.

Day 2 & 3 (Sun/Mon): Royal Mile starting with the Castle / Gladstone’s Land / St Giles's / Parliament House / John Knox House / Greyfriars Bobby / Deacon Brodie's pub / Grassmarket / Victoria Street / if time allows then Arthur's seat and Holyrood Park. One evening do the Ghost tour of Mary King’s Close and one evening do Sandy Bell’s. Lunch: Viva Mexico, Kalpna, Spoon, Davin Bann or Henderson’s. Any dinner recommendations?

Day 4 (Tue): Train to Linlithgow and visit Palace, then on to Stirling and see the Castle / Wallace Monument / Bannockburn / Shopping.

Day 5 (Wed): Train to Stonehaven (2 ½ hrs) and then to Dunnottar castle with possible stops either on the way there or the way back to Arbroath and/or Carnoustie. Another idea for this day was to hire a driver/guide and visit Lochleven Castle and then the little villages of Pittenweem and Crail and up the coast to Stonehaven. I really want to see Dunnottar and I’m not sure how to make the most of our time on the way there and back (suggestions?).

MickiMc

Day 6 (Thu): Train to Oban, ferry to Mull (5hrs). Get settled in B&B (suggestions?).

Day 7 & 8 (Fri/Sat): Duart and Torosay Castles, Tobermory, Moy Castle, Iona. We are trying to decide whether to hire a driver/guide once we are on the island or rent a car (scary) and drive ourselves. The last time I tried driving (2001) I took a taxi from Edinburgh to the airport. Picked up our car and drove south to Melrose Abbey and then on to Abbottsford and then North to Borthwick Castle where we spent the night. I was a nervous wreck the entire day of driving. I’m wondering if driving on Mull would be better. My sister thinks we can do it but I’m not so sure. I don’t know what the terrain is like on Mull but I remember Skye and I don’t think I would have wanted to maneuver those single-track lanes going up/down mountains. Any comments?

Day 9 (Sun): Get an early start and take ferry/train to Fort Willaim to Mallaig to Isle of Skye. I don’t know how the heck we will get around once there. Here again I’m thinking of hiring a driver/guide.

Day 10 & 11 (Mon/Tue): Old Man of Storr, Neist Point Lighthouse, scenery, etc. Do you have accommodation and restaurant recommendations, or guide/driver suggestions?

Day 12 (Wed): Leave for Inverness (2 1/2hrs). I’m wondering how we get from Skye B&B/hotel and across the bridge to the train terminal. I’m assuming there is bus or taxi service (?). Once in Inverness check-in with B&B/hotel and then I’d like to see Culloden Moor battlefield and if time allows, Cawdor Castle, glimpse Loch Ness.

Day 13 (Thu): Head south with stops at Blair Atholl, Dunkeld, and spend the night in Perth. Or we could pick just one place to stop and go on to Edinburgh to spend Thu & Fri night.

Day 14 (Fri): Train to Edinburgh. Check-in at hotel for last day. We’ve got an early morning (Sat 6:00 a.m.) flight back home. Are there any decent hotels near the airport?

This is it for starters. I’m sure I’ll change it several times before now and then. However, from what I understand I’ll need to book train/ferry in advance and probably some accommodations as well. Is this a very busy time of the year?

janisj

Just a quick note now - will try to post more later. I'd normally try to talk you into driving - but if driving in the Borders so traumatized you, that probably isn't such a good idea.

You have worked out about as good an itinerary as possible w/o a car. If you won't drive, I <b>highly</b> recommend you hire local driver/guides in each area (other than in Edinburgh of course). Just not that easy to get around efficiently by public transport and I fear your sister will be saying &quot;I told you so&quot; more than a little.

As for driving on Mull - no mountains to worry about - however almost no 2 lane roads either. So if Skye bothered you, Mull will too.

historytraveler

I can recommend the following for a driver on Skye.

Kyleakin Private Hire
www.scotland-info.co.uk/skye-tours.htm

or

D. Nicolson Taxis
www.nicolsonhire.co.uk

Have used both and they're both excellent.

zippo

When I go to the islands I use the local buses, they go most places and are much more fun. On some islands you choose between buses following main roads and others going though the small villages - effectively a tour.
They usually have buses timed to meet the ferries.
Get talking to someone &amp; you have a free guide including up-to-the-minute gossip.
Google Mull (etc) bus timetable.
Look for post buses too - they deliver mail &amp; passengers.
Taxis/tour guides should only be a last resort.

rogerdodger

I don't drive when in Scotland either. Regarding Mull..They have a local bus tour company, Bowman's. They arrange the ferry from Oban, bus to the small ferry port to Iona, to Iona and back. Last year I took the bus to Tombermory from the main Mull port and later questioned why I went! It was winter, but still nothing to do but hang out at a pub.

historytraveler

The problem with buses on Skye is that service is variable at best. You have to accommodate your travel with their schedule. It is not unheard of for a bus to be late or not show at all. With a limited stay, buses are seldom convenient or an efficent way to use your time. This isn't true of all places, but is the general rule for Skye.

The advantage of a driver is that they provide excellent information about the spots you'll visit. They work for and with you to customize your tour. Traveling by bus will mean you'll have to accommodate your plans to the bus schedule. If you can afford it,hire a driver. I've visited Skye by car, bus and driver and driving your own car or hiring a driver is by far the best of the options.

twk

Busses aren't going to pull over and let you take pictures whenever you want. They also don't always go to the best scenic points, as they are geared toward transporting residents more so than tourists. On Skye, I can't see doing it anyway other than private car, whether you're driving or someone else is driving.

As far as driving on Skye, parts of it are very easy, but a lot of the best scenery involves a more challenging drive down single track roads. As the person doing all the driving on our trip, I found that however spectacular the scenery was going down these roads, I had a hard time enjoying it because most of these single track roads required your full attention (not many stretches of straight single track road where you can see well ahead for oncoming vehicles--usually, it's blind summit, followed by blind curve, followed by blind summit, etc.). Given your unpleasant experience with simply driving on the left, if you can afford it, I'd reccomend the private driver.

MickiMc

Thanks for the advice on driving on the islands. I’m reminded of my last driving attempt and my mother would say “isn’t this lovely” and then the next words were “but don’t look and keep your eyes on the road”. So, I think I’ll go with a driver/guide and use buses/taxis as a backup. Does anyone know what a fair charge for hiring a driver is? $100/day?

Gordon_R

You have no idea of the cost of living in the UK. I'd be amazed if you could find anyone willing to provide a full day's private tour for just 50 quid ($100): that will barely cover the fuel and running costs of the car, let alone provide a decent income for the driver. I regularly pay 70 quid for a 1.5 hour taxi journey up to London. Think 2 to 3 times that much for a day's private sightseeing tour. If that's too much join a bus tour.

MickiMc

Gordon
You're correct, I have no idea what the living costs are in the U.K. I would imagine that like here they vary depending on where you live. I remembered seeing a website for a guide that listed $100/day pp with a minimum of two people. That would mean the cost for me and my sister would be $200. I should have typed $200/day in my last post. But you're saying you think the charge is $300-400?

MickiMc

(Oops, hit the enter key too soon) I'm assuming that is a per day cost? $300/day split between two people would be $150/day each.

historytraveler

MickiMc,

Regarding cost of driver on Skye you can consult the websites I've provided or contact via the following emails.

It's been a couple of years,so prices might have increased somewhat,but Alistair(sp?) drove us around the island in his Mercedes (from about 9:30 a.m to about 5:30 p.m.) for 100 &pound;. Donny Nicholson drove us from the Eilean Iarmain Hotel on the Sleat Peninsula to Ardvasar (ferry)via the Ord,Tokavaig,Tarskavaig scenic route for 25&pound;. This is certainly not 3/4 times your $100 amount.

Here are the email adddresses:
Kyleakin Private Hire [email protected]

D. Nicolson Taxis
[email protected]

MickiMc

Thanks historytraveler, you’re a jewel! I’ll check those links.