Ya got me going. Please write sum more!!!

ttt

The following day, Monday, we began the day with breakfast at the hotel. For the first time that I can remember in Italy, we were treated to superb croissants at a hotel breakfast table. These would be our first introduction to the wonders of pasty in Campania and we would consume many more before the week was out. Breakfast at the Floridana is composed of a buffet of these croissants, breads and cakes with various jams and honeys, and juices (alas, not fresh).

By 10am we were on our way to Ravello aboard the blue SITA bus. We has also debated bout whether or not to rent a car for the Amalfi coast. From what we could glean from observation, the driving would not be too bad as speeding is all but impossible. But parking would be another story, as spaces are difficult to find. The Floridiana does offer free parking, for those that are considering renting a car. I would say that the buses are the best bet, although these can be very crowded at peak times and seats are not guaranteed! In summer traveling anywhere on the coast would be problematic unless you time your journeys for off hours.

I should make note here of the Sorrnto City Sightseeing bus, which is a hop-on, hop-ff vehicle with open double decker seating that runs between Amalfi, Minori, Maiori, and , Ravello; one journey costs 3 Euro and a day ticket costs 10:


www.city-sightseeing.it

As far as timing, we found 5 days to be just enough time to allow for an introduction to some of the highlights of the coast without spending all of your time on the road. We never did get to Capri or to Sorrento and are already planning a future trip which we might consider splitting between the Sorrentine Peninsula and Capri. We also did not have time to explore some of the less touristed inland towns such as Agerola and Pogerola. For anyone on a budget, I would suggest looking into eating in one of these towns where restaurant prices are much lower than on the coast itself, or so we were advised by several locals. (There is a SlowFood restaurant in Pogerola which sounded tempting..)

Once in Ravello, we wandered through the gardens of both the Villa Ruffolo and the Villa Cimbrone. Both of these are “musts” and both offer jaw-dropping views of the coast. Gore Vidal once described the views from the Villa Cimbrone as “the most beautiful panorama in the world.”

We also had a look around the 19-room Hotel Villa Cimbone (deluxe double with sea view, 600 Euro) which appears to be an idyllic spot and where the staff was gracious about allowing non-guests to have a look around. (We found this to be true at each of the hotels we peeked into, including Santa Caterina in Amalfi, Luna Convento in Amalfi, and Le Sireneuse in Positano).

Next: a visit to a coral and cameo (both materials have a long history of being worked for for jewelery on this coast, although I suspect that most of the the coral now comes from Taiwan and around, since it has been over harvested to perilous levels here) studio/shop to the left of the Duomo.

And then it was lunchtime! I had read for years about Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello, which had been a favorite of Garbo and Vidal and many other luminaries, and did not know what to expect..would there be laminated menus with flags posted outside? NO! Cumpa Cosimo is a no frills trattoria under the watchful helm of Netta Bottone, whose father, Cosimo, founded the place 80 years ago. Netta growns many of the vegetables at her farm in nearby Scala. We quickly warmed to the place, even though there were many fellow tourists in evidence that day at lunch. I suggest you consult the menu for a minute and confer with Netta about your selections. Trust her!

This was our very light lunch:

Orata, simply prepared with white wine and lemon..( I had thought this fish was bream but Netta insisted it was “bass’ In English. Whatever it was, it was very good!) When ordering fish, I suggest inquiring whether or not it has been farmed or caught I the wild..

Green salad..lightly dressed soft lettuces and fennel..excellent

Tomato and fresh ricotta salad (provided complimentary to my partner who had not ordered a salad; Netta did not want him to sit before an empty place). This was a revelation…first-rate ingredients, simply presented. And to think the tomatoes were not even in season…(!!)
I suppose it is true what they say about the soil in this part of the world!

Canneloni with meat and tomato sauce..suggested by Netta for the fish-shunner at the table..excellent!!!!!!!

With a carafe of house white wine, water and cover, the bill totaled 35 Euro.



I will mention here that ever since I had read a New York Times article that called their appellation “one of the world’s smallest and most obscure,” I had been eager to sample the aspirino wines from Aversa, in Caserta province and from neighboring Naples province. At Cumpa Cosimo and at every other place we ate and in every liquor store we entered, I asked for this wine and every time this would provoke a smile and sometimes even a slight laugh… In Cetara I got so far as to be told that the wine was not yet ready. It was not until we reached Naples that my quest was satisfied!!! Here is the article:




http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/08/dining/08aspr.html?_r=1&scp=16&sq=naples%20wines&st=cse&oref=slogin

After some further wandering around Ravello we were back at the SITA bus stop, along with about 50 others, to await the bus back to Amalfi. There was quite a scramble to obtain seats on the 3pm bus and I shudder to think what the scene would be like in the height of summer. So if you do go in high season, again, try to time your day trips if possible, to avoid the crowds. Once back in Amalfi, we took a short peek into a few of the shops. With the poor exchange rate, I found prices for the ceramics and various food items to be high. We paid a short visit to Antichi Sapori di Amalfi, a few steps in from the main square on your right as you face the sea:

http://www.antichisaporidamalfi.it/web/index.cfm?area=2

Here you can watch the production of limoncello and stock up on this spirit in what seemed like hundreds of bottle shapes. Note that contrary to what I have read here, limoncello is yellow and not green!!! (we were later told by a local that no self-respecting Amalfitani would ever BUY their limoncello; rather, they make it at home from lemons, sugar and pure alcohol).

And then, it was time to think about dinner. By 5pm we were at the bus stop again, bound for the fishing village of Cetara, renowned for the production of anchovy and tuna both fresh and in various guises, and for excellent local restaurants.

We arrived in Cetara close to 6pm and had time for a stroll around the port area and a linger on the benches near the sea, where we watched the action until it was ready to head to Al Convento, our chosen spot for dinner, where we had reserved a table at the unfashionable hour of 7:30.

Al Convento proved to be another of our favorites of the trip. Another SlowFood pick (one of three in Cetara!), the restaurant occupies part of a former convent and the whitewashed room with soaring arches is adorned with beautiful old frescoes. Luckily for the fish-shy among us, the menu had plenty of range.

Here is what we devoured at this fantastic restaurant, which is also known for their pizza:

+Tortino di Scarola e Bottarga di Tonno (9 Euro)..A wonderful flan/pudding-type confection of escarole and raisins topped with generous shavings of bottarga (pressed tuna roe). Memorable, innovative, and delightful..

+Spaghetti con Colatura di Alici (8 Euro)..Pasta topped with colatura, the modern version of the anchovy liquid known in Roman times as
Garum (see NY Times article linked below for recipe; colatura is sold in shops along the coast for about 10 Euro a small bottle, and also at New York’s Buon Italia in Chelsea Market)


http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9500EFDC113EF931A15753C1A9659C8B63&scp=1&sq=garum+cetara&st=nyt


+Cannelloni con Ricotta e Stratiacella di Bufula (7 Euro)…terrific!

+Pizza Margherita (4 Euro)..priced at about half what places in the more touristed towns charge, this was our first introcudtion to the joy that is Campanian pizza. For the rest of the week, we would be hungry for just one more slice!!

House white: Sammarco from Ravello (this was the house white; the wine list covers much of Campania and beyond at prices ranging from 10 Euro to 15 Euro (for a bottle of Guigal Rhone)

Total with water and cover: 38 Euro..a small price to pay for such pleasure!


By 9pm we were back on the bus, bound for Amalfi and the Floridiana.



Al Convento, Piazza San Francisco, 16, Cetara. (Up the steps from the piazza, less than a block from the bus stop) Closed Tuesday.

Since the editing function does not work, here is what I meant to write above:

The coast from Amalfi to Cetara is wilder and even more picturesque than the more developed stretches further west. The town of Cetara reminds me of what many of the other towns must have been like before the advent of mass tourism. This is a working fishing town, with a fishing harbor and colorful boats puled onto the sands of the town beach. There is apparently one good (three-star) hotel in town, the Cetus, and I would guess that this would make a great base for a few nights.

Also, those watching the budget might also consider exploring the possibility of lodging in Minori or Maiori, towns which while not as attractive as the more famous coastal ones, would not be inconvenient for exploration by bus and, from what we heard, offer far lower prices.

To elaborate on what I wrote above about limoncello, the liqueur has no green in it whatsoever, whether or not it is made form "pure" ingredients or has preservatives added. I suspect one would become very thirsty searching for a greenish limoncello!

..and here are some photos (not my own) of Cetara:




http://www.comune.cetara.sa.it/default.aspx?pagina=comuneoggi&IdLingua=1&Nascosto=

and here...is the colatura I wrote about:




http://www.amazon.com/Salted-Anchovies-Colatura-Cetara-Nettuno/dp/B000CRIFGM

ekscrunchy, you write the most delicious trip reports!

sounds like you had a wonderful trip!

i'm really enjoying all the details!

thank you for sharing.

dina

Thanks..I will be back with more tomorrow. But one odd thing happened on the flight over. My partner had packed (and I saw them before we left) two sections of the New York Times in the outer pocket of his checked bag. Imagine our surprise when these were missing on arrival in Naples! These were the Friday and Sunday Arts sections..there must be an English-speaking film buff working in baggage handling!

Eks,

I was excited to see your report today while at (ugh) work. I knew I had to save it until I got home and could enjoy a glass of wine to go with your meal descriptions!

I was right.

Oh yes the Ravello bus scramble! I really didn't think you would run into it in May. Good to know....

Oh, thanks for writing this report and bringing back many edible memories for me. I am glad you had a good time and ate so well. I am looking forward to more tomorrow.

I am enjoying your report *so much*, eks ! I feel honoured that you think I helped with the planning.

Madrid airport is cool, isn't it ? Interesting that it had the same architect as Heathrow Terminal 5 - hopefully that will seem just as great in time, once the teething problems are settled.

You have just made me want to stay in Amalfi again - and eat in all the places you did ! I think you are correct to say "I suspect that people who cautioned against staying here have not actually lodged in the town". I hadn't read of the Floridiana before but it sounds ideal - I will make a note. I stayed twice in the Santa Caterina a few years ago & it's gorgeous, but out of my price range now - also not ideal being a bit out of town, although it does have the advantage of its own 'beach'. I don't remember noticing the Mussolini souvenirs but I suspect DH, who just started cooking last year, would love the apron (As a piece of kitsch I hasten to add !)

I have always understood orata, and its near-homonym dorada, to be bream, too.

Caroline you were a huge help to me. I am trying to keep this a secret but I spent much time since I have been back reading old trip reports and dreaming of going back to that area! So do not be surprised if I quiz you about Ischia sometime soon! I see you are returning again!

I am astounded that people here dismiss Amalfi. But I am also certain that these views come from day trippers. There is a world beyond what people see on the main street..all the scalinatelli leading into the hills where the Amalfitani actually live. And the walks!
And the views! Yes, certainly keep Hotel Floridiana in mind. We did peek into the Santa Caterina and it is, indeed, gorgeous. But all those photos of Hillary Clinton everywhere! The walk to town is along the main road so is not so pleasant but I am sure one could get "used to it" and refresh with a cool vodka and lemon on the terrace after the trek back to the hotel!


To tell the truth, we visited Positano on a day trip (coming soon in the report) and it did not possess nearly the allure for me that Amalfi did. So perhaps that was because WE were the daytrippers in that town.


ALSO, I made a big omission in forgetting to thank KYBOURBON for kindly lending me the Capalbo book on Campania. Thanks, KY.

I'll have to copy this entire delicious report into my Italy file when it's done. Waiting for more . . .

So glad to help ! Although I've stayed in/just outside Positano I still don't like it as much as Amalfi which is more of a real town. Positano in the evening is pretty much the same as Positano in the daytime - just full of tourists & boutiques aimed at tourists. Each time I've been it's just been because of the hotel we stayed in, and we barely left.

eks -

Love reading your report, especially your feelings towards Amalfi. I am torn between Positano (for the views) or Sorrento and than started considering Amalfi. If we're planning a day trip to Pompeii and Capri would you still recommend it?

Looking forward to your next installment.

I have not been to Sorrento in years so can't comment on staying there. It is, however, closer to Pompeii.

But yes, Amalfi is a great base and you could certainly travel to Pompeii and Capri from there. There are ferries to Capri, weather permitting, and you could take the bus/train combo to Pompeii. And since many buses originate in Amalfi, your chance of getting a seat, no small factor, are better in Amalfi I would guess.

Amalfi has views that, to me, are just as spectacular as those in Positano. And the main square and main street are flat, unlike in Positano. We liked Amalfi so much that we gave up on our idea of taking a daytrip to Capri.. But Amalfi does not ahve the concentration of luxury boutiques that Positano has, so if that is of interest you are better off in Positano. We also noticed a much larger concentration of Americans and other English-speaking tourists in Positano than in Amalfi, but that is not scientific as it is based only on our brief visit.

To me, in a short (less than a week) visit it might better to concentrate either on the Amalfi Drive or the Sorrentine Peninsula. (visiting Pompeii from either place) There are day trips within both of those regions and you do not want to spend every day on the bus. In fact, we are even considering returning in the future and basing someplace on the S. peninsula so we can explore that and perhaps visit either Capri or Ischia for a few days.

I don't think there is any right and wrong here. Amalfi appealed to us because it was a real town that, while there were many tourists, also appeared to have an existence apart from the tourist-oriented places. There were real shops for locals and much opportunity to get away from the congestion of the main street. Perhaps this is true of Positano as well, on the upper half of the town, above the main road. I wonder what that part of Positano is like..

I want to add I am glad if I helped you in some ways in planning your trip. I love Amalfi so much, we stayed in a beautiful apartment there for two weeks. At night the town is just for the locals and the stay-overs like you say which makes it so pleasant. I think we tried almost all the restaurants in town, some of them hidden away in the covered alleys.

SeaUrchin you helped me a lot! You were always there with answers to my endless questions. And I did see the apartment rental place that I think you mentioned here. I would certainly consider renting a place someday..

I will be back soon with more details..

Also I want to mention one more thing in the Amalfi-Positano comparison issue: Positano's beach is directly below the town so you have to walk down many steps to reach it. But in Amalfi, the road separates the beaches from the town so you have to cross it to get to the beaches. Access to Amalfi from the bus stop requires no step-climbing, however, while to reach most hotels in Positano you would have to either descend or ascend, (unless of course, you are staying at Le Sireneuse which is near the main road!!)

I hope that helps some people understand some of the differences in layout of the two towns.

The next day, Tuesday, dawned cloudy and a little cooler. This would be the only day that the weather was less than spectacular. We awoke a little late after having slept very well; we were surprised to feel very few effects of jet lag during the week. After breakfast at the hotel, we boarded the 11am bus to Positano. Tickets must be purchased before boarding from one of at least two sales points across from the main bus stop.

The ride, of course, is spectacular and within about 30 minutes we were in Positano. I had been here once before many years ago and did not fall under the spell of this famous town. My initial feelings remained much the same, colored, I am certain, by the hordes of fellow daytrippers we encountered along the narrow streets leading down to the sea. The narrow Via dei Mulini is lined with a string of tourist shops offering everything from the postcards and the ubiquitous limoncello to resortwear to paintings and even life-sized panthers cast in bronze that would be just the thing for your dacha outside Moscow. (No Il Duce aprons were spotted in my cursory glance.)


We took a quick peek inside Le Sireneuse where were invited to have a drink on the terrace by the courteous front desk person. As I mentioned, the staff at these upscale hotels were uniformly congenial when we asked to look around. It looks like a lovely hotel and has wonderful views of the town from the terraces and, no doubt, from the guest rooms. We passed, however, on the drink and made our way through the throngs past the Piazza with its fantastic tile-covered cement lounge chair, and the Chiesa Madre, home to the black virgin of Positano, down to the pebbly gray beach at the bottom of the hill. Here we noticed the hotel Covo dei Saracini, where a friend of mine returns frequently in summer; we both agreed that staying here on the beach would not be a bad way to pass vacation days.

After less than an hour we were ready to move on, but the next ferry was not leaving until 1:30pm, so we set off on the path that leads west from the right side of of the ferry dock. This cliff-hugging walkway is named the Via Positanesi d”America, a reminder that three-quarters of the town’s population set sail for America in the late 19th Century, with most settling in New York City. This footpath, which links the Marina Grande with the less-crowded but smaller Fornillo Beach, was the highlight of our visit that day. It passes the Torre Trasita, one of a string of coastal defense towers erected to defend the coastal villages from pirate attacks and now converted to a residence (dream on…..it apparently comes up for rental once in a while) and continues past Lo Guaraccino Restaurant which enjoys a film-set-worthy position at the bottom of the cliff and facing the sea. We turned back before reaching Fornillo Beach, however, and boarded the ferry (6 Euro) at 1:30 bound for Amalfi. The ferry ride alone is worth the trip, sailing past deserted coves, the San Pietro Hotel, the town of Praiano, the Furore Gorge, and the tiny village of Conca dei Marini before rounding the point and heading into Amalfi’s harbor. (In Conca dei Marini I noticed a hotel on the sea apparently built above what looked like a stone fortification of some kind..does anyone have an idea what this is?? It is between the Capo di Conca point and Amalfi)

Once in Amalfi, we stopped into the Marina Grande restaurant and reserved a window table facing the sea for that evening. We found that it was important to reserve ahead, even during the week. this was a “bridge” week, between the Liberation and May Day weekends so the area was more crowded than usual and I imagine that in high season reservations would be essential even days in advance.

We decided to skip lunch this day and snack on local cheese and salami. Although the small supermarket a few steps from the hotel (on a passageway just off the main street) closes during lunch hours, we found a small shop nearby where we purchased bufala mozzarella, slices of local salami and a loaf of bread.

If I have not mentioned it, the soft cheeses in the area are absolutely amazing..both cow’s milk and buffalo milk are turned into provola, scamorza, caciocavallo, mozzarella in various stages of ageing and often smoked. The smoked provola, provola affumicata, now ranks up there with my favorite cheese on earth!!!!! After our little lunch in the room I was more determined than before to pay a visit to the cheesemakers near Battipaglia, one of the centers (nearby Agerola is another) of production in the area.

Surprise: The Torre Trasita IS available for rental. For anyone planning to stay awhile in Positano, I cannot think of a more glorious perch:


http://www.tuscanestates.com/seaside_torre_trasita.php

To correct two (probably just a fraction of the total) embarrassing errors above:


Villa CimbRone

Asprinio di Aversa

I forgot to mention that with our lunch we sampled a favorite snack of the region, taralli, which are savory hard biscuits made in various flavors and sometimes embellished with almonds. These would make nice treats to bring home (Taralli Senza Pepe; brand name: Felix are the ones we liked)

Dinner that evening was at Marina Grande, one of a group of restaurants jutting out over Amalfi's main beach, the Marina Grande, to the left of the bus area as you face the sea. A family place run by three brothers, one of whom rushed to greet us as we descended the steps and entered the restaurant, this was a recommendation from an Italian restaurant critic’s website.

We began our meal with a favorite appetizer of the coast, scamorza (local cheese) wrapped in lemon leaves and grilled, served with roasted red peppers and thin shards of zucchini. Scamorza is a favorite cheese of mine and I have tried, unsuccessfully, to concoct a similar dish (minus the lemon leaves, at home). Excellent! (8 Euro)

Two pastas arrived next: Mezzelune filled with a bland of ricci di mare (sea urchin) and ricotta and served with a light tomato sauce. (13 Euro) and, for the non-fish-eater, Rigatoni con Melanzane, pomodoro fresco e Provola Affumicata (oh, that provola affumicata!) (13 Euro)

Both pastas were excellent.

And finally, Pizza 4 Formaggi (four cheeses)..as I may have mentioned above, many restaurants on the coast serve pizza at night. Superb (7 Euro)

Our wine was from Ravello, a white from Klingsor. We passed on dessert, although we were tempted. Marina Grande serves Mariage Freres tea for 3 Euro per pot. The total with water and cover totaled 61 Euro which made this dinner among the most expensive of the week. Well worth it.

Marina Grande rents beach lounges and umbrellas and will serve lunch to beach-goers at their chairs, or in the restaurant itself. The dining room contains an enclosed terrace that I imagine would be open to the air in warmer weather.




http://www.ristorantemarinagrande.com/

The next morning we were up early for our long-awaited excursion with a hired car and driver to Paestum and the mozzarella heartland outside Battipaglia.

We had originally received price quotes (by e-mail before departure) of 300 Euro for this trip, but when I advised Agnese at the Hotel Floridiana of our plans, she suggested that the quoted price sounded high. An important tip when contemplating a hired driver for an Amalfi coast-area excursion is to consider the home base of the driver. A driver who is based near Sorrento will probably ask a higher price to travel to Paestum than one who is based further east, regardless of your hotel location, because the Sorrento driver will have a much longer route to travel. Likewise, for a trip to Pompeii, a driver living in the Sorrento area might be willing to accept a lower fee than one who has to begin in Amalfi.

Based on Agnese’s recommendation, we arrived at a price of 180 Euro which would include a trip to Paestum with waiting time, a stop at a mozzarella caseficio, and delivery to Cetara where we would have lunch. We would then return to Amalfi by bus, thus sparing the driver the waiting time and therefore keeping the price down. We were very pleased with how our day worked out and I recommend our driver, Dino Toffoletto. Dino is a cautious driver and shared his love for the area (he lives in Maiori) with us in a mix of English and Italian. He understands basic English but is not fluent. He is most willing to discuss food and life on the Campanian coast.

dionisiotoffoletto@tim.it

ek, I've been anxiously awaiting your report, and it doesn't disappoint! I'm going to either Naples or Capri, then Sorrento in July (I know, not the best time, but it's when I can go) and look forward to the rest of your info.

I originally debated between Naples and Capri and decided on Naples. Then with all the news about the garbage, I decided maybe I should spend those three nights in Capri instead. Now you've got me wondering again!

Drat, I didn't get to Marina Grande, now I am disappointed and will just have to return sooner.

On one thread I suggested to someone that they wait until they get to Amalfi itself and negotiate a price with a local driver for any tour in that area. I am glad your Agnese advised you too.

How did you enjoy Paestum and the cheese place?

After driving through the city of Salerno, the site of the Allied invasion of Italy and largely destroyed by an earthquake in the 18th Century and Allied bombing during World War Two (but reputedly a pleasant city with good restaurants and an important cathedral), the terrain flattens out and artichoke and strawberry fields sprout along the highway. I was astounded to see open-back trucks piled high with the famous Paestum artichokes: 30 for 5 Euro!!! (It was Dino’s turn to be astounded when I told him that a usual price in New York was $2.99 for ONE large artichoke, and he shared with us his favorite artichoke preparation: grilled over coals and served with provola cheese)

After a drive of about 2.5 hours, give or take a few minutes, we reached the entrance to the archeological site of Paestum, formerly the Greek city of Poseidonia, founded about 600 B.C. Three principal temples dominate the site and there re remains of Roman roads and Roman construction as well. While touring the ruins we came upon a group of teenagers from Naples who were on a field trip. In a group of about 30 children, perhaps three were paying attention to the teacher’s lecture while the others flirted with each other, tossed a ball in the air, gabbed on cell phones, and introduced themselves to us. They were quite excited when we told them we were from New York (one wanted to know if that was the city of the “twin towers” and if, in fact, these towers had fallen!!) They were also quick to share the names of their favorite pizza places in Naples (none of which I remember) and to pose for our photos, which they then had to pass around and comment on.

After touring the site, which are in even better condition than the astounding temples at Agrigento in Sicily, we visited the museum and marveled at the frescoed tombs including the famous Tomb of the Diver with its mysterious symbolism. I highly recommend a visit to Paestum. It took us about two hours do make a cursory tour through the site and the museum (another half an hour would have been ideal) after which we headed for the long awaited visit to a mozzarella “caseficio.”

You were so helpful to me with this trip! Absolutely the best idea is to wait until arrival to arrange a driver. You might not find one fluent in English but it really matters very little, or at least it mattered little to me. The price difference was huge! There is NO reason to arrange this in advance and negotiation is always possible.

Susan I was not bothered one iota by the garbage in Naples. Yes, we saw a few overflowing bins along the highways but within the center city there was little evidence of a problem and, in fact, we saw them emptying the garbage bins twice a day along Via Chiaia!

There is an article in today's New York Times that suggests that Berlusconi will be working to end the crisis..people we spoke to seem to feel that things are about to change now that he is back in office. He seems to be quite popular on the AC and in Naples, based on our tiny sampling of voters!

Don't let this photo scare you..you would not be anywhere near the scene:


http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/07/world/europe/07italy.html?_r=1&ref=world&oref=slogin


We did not take that day trip to Capri. Since returning home I have done some further reading about the island and there seem to be such mixed opinions..what is your plan as far as hotels and location?

I had visions of stand after stand lining the roads around Paestum, each offering mozzarella in various guises. And water buffalo grazing in verdant fields! This may, in fact, be the scene closer to Battipaglia but we saw nary a lone buffalo on our route and no stands along the highway. But Dino knew exactly where to point the car and within minutes of leaving the Paestum site, we pulled up in front of Masseria Lupata, via Porta Marina, Paestum. Phone: 0828.722.002. Sadly, the line of steel tubs were empty as production takes place in the mornings. So if you have not seen the process of making mozzarella I would suggest phoning to inquire about timing and visiting the masseria before heading for the ruins. I had seen the cheese being made here in New York so was not too disappointed. Any lingering regret certainly vanished once we walked around the back to the store. There, in shiny metal and glass cases, rested mozzarella of cow and buffalo milk in about 20 different guises! Fresh, aged for a day, aged for a week, smoked, soft, hard, fresh, as well as bars of buffalo butter (about 2 euro a kilo as opposed to the $8US or so charged for this butter here in New York!) In my next life, I will rent an apartment in Amalfi and head here on the first day to stock up on cheese. Imagine the meals you could concoct back at the house with the cheese, the artichokes, the tomatoes, the various salumi???? It boggles the mind!!! Since many of the cheeses are at their peak only on the day of manufacturer, I had to content myself with a huge ball of slightly aged provola which now rests in my frig here at home to be used in tomorrow’s dinner, and a bag of small balls of provola affumicata which we nibbled on for the next two days at any occasion. Incredible! And inexpensive!!!!!!!!!!!!!! One of the food highlights of Italy!!!!!

Dino and fellow Campanians, please forgive me for what I am about to reveal. On the way back to Salerno and Amalfi, we drove along the beach road from Paestum. A beautiful beach strip marred by hideous new construction which Dino suggested had taken place with no building permits (we heard this over and over in Campania). And positioned along this road were girls who looked to be about 15 years old in various states of undress. From “the east,” Dino confided. He was absolutely mortified that we were privy to the sight, which really brought home the issue of trafficking to me.

Soon we were back in Cetara and ready for lunch…more soon…

ek, the hotel I had planned on for Naples was Hotel Executive, Via del Cerriglio, based on caroline edinburgh's trip report. And I really like the price, 65E for a single room. I'm really leaning towards going back to my original plan, not that I wouldn't like to stay overnight on Capri as well, but you can only do so much! (I'll be in Rome again after Sorrento this trip.)

I want to try to Burrata cheese, the fresh mozarella that is creamier inside I think. (I read about how it is made, but the details escape me at the moment.) Did you get to taste that?

Susan the odd thing is that we did not come across any burrata! But many of the provola cheeses had somewhat soft center. I have to check the origins of the burrata sold here in NYC...I thought that the one I've seen here was from Puglia(???) (The one wrapped in the leaves)

Maybe Vicenzo can fill us in..I was expecting to see this and did not..

ek,thank you for your report. I am enjoying it and saving it for all your great details. It is good to know the more reasonably priced places.

So provola is an aged cheese that you can bring back to the US and is still soft inside? I know you can't generally bring back soft cheeses, but if I could bring back something like that, it would be good to know that.

Looking forward to your experiences in Naples.

Eks -

I am so happy I came across this report. I have been on the look out for a report following your trip.

I am going to savour every word.

Jami

Thanks, everyone. I will continue tomorrow.

Susan, I am not sure if you are actually allowed to bring it back, but there are various types of provola, aged for different lengths of time. The one I brought home is not as soft as many of them because the softest ones have to be consumed within a couple of days, or so I understand.. I am not even sure if the one I brought home (they vacuum packed it for me) is still in great condition, although they told me at the shop that it would keep for a month. I will take it out and use it tomorrow night..

I had some bufala mozzarella left in my hotel room refrigerator when I left Amalfi; it was three days old and Agnese told me to throw it away. (Although I certainly keep fresh mozzarella for 4 days when I buy it here in NY. But it certainly is not as good after it has been refrigerated)

I'm going to Campania next June and by reading your trip report I felt as if I were watching a trailer of my trip.

I've also been to Positano as a day trip from Capri and I wasn't impressed either. I'm basing in Amalfi as well because I've also read in some other trip reports that, unlike Positano, it really gives you the feeling of a real place.

Great trip report! I specially enjoyed the food parts!

More fantastic writing, eks. You certainly made the most of your trip & make me feel very lazy ! Must try to get to Paestum soon.

Susan and ekscrunchy--

One of the highlights of my two visits to Puglia has been enjoying fresh mozzarella each day and burrata in particular. I was there again in March and we made sure to reserve a burrata at the local latticcini since they are snapped up early in the morning..

Burrata looks like a fresh mozzarella. It spreads out slightly a it sits, because the insides are only partially formed, still milky and curdy in spots. When you cut into it, it begins to ooze. Heavenly.

We had fresh mozzarella of some kind every day. Even the mozzarella "braids" from the local supermarket were excellent. My Italian friend said that the Pugliese will not put up with bad cheese or bread, so that even the larger supermarkets have high quality cheese. The bread bakers must bake twice a day.

I've seen burrata on the menu at Bar Pitti in NYC, for a whopping $19 (serves two people). I suppose it's cheaper than an airline ticket . . .

Susan, thank you for that information. DiPalo is one of a few places selling burrata here in NYC; I think they get shipments by air twice a week but even so, the cheese is probably not in optimal condition when it arrives. $19 at Bar Pitti..amazing, but I guess the shipping is high.

I have already been dreaming about another trip to Italy and Puglia is one of the places on my list (Ligurian coast being the other main contender with Capri/Sorrento running a distant third, along with Tropea). Did you by any chance write a report?

Photo (not mine) of temple (one of three) at Paestum:




http://www.thisfabtrek.com/journey/europe/italy/20070520-camigliatello/paestum-temple-4.jpg

Still formulating my report--it won't be the usual typa since I stayed with a frined and we ate at home a lot. . . still to come.

This is a wonderful report.

About that colatura stuff -- I bought some after the NYT's article, and tried it again another time, but never got great results. (This from an anchovy, olove oil and garlic fan.) Do you have an idea of the ideal proportions?

Fra Diavolo: There is a recipe in the times link that I posted above. Also, I think that Franco posted on here in one of three long threads: either the thread about Italian food or one of two I started: My Rome trip report or a thread about "Easy Side Trips from Rome." I will try to find them and post here.

I also bought a bottle after I read that article; it has been sitting on my kitchen shelf for a year or so! But I am going use it soon; the main thing to remember is that there was NOT a strong taste of anchovy in the spaghetti colatura I sampled in Cetara. Maybe try adding spoonfull by spoonfull to the sauce (??)

Anyway, here is a bit more:






I wrote this earlier but want to say it once more: Cetara would make a wonderful daytrip from any of the more touristed towns of the coast for anyone interested in seeing a village relatively untouched by mass tourism. On our two short visits we saw only three other obvious outsiders (a group of young Germans). Again, the Hotel Cetus might be a place to consider here (although we did not visit, we heard good things about this hotel). Cetara has a beach and in season there is apparently an opportunity to go out on the boats of the anchovy fishermen. For a village this small, Cetara is notable for having three restaurants listed in the SlowFood guide and acclaimed up and down this coast. After our visit to Paestum, we had lunch of the second of these, San Pietro, which overlooks the main square across the street and down a flight of steps from the SITA bus stop on the main road. We were interested to find a plaque in the main square commemorating the Jews of the area that had been deported during the second world war.

Ristorante San Pietro (closed Tuesdays off season) is a family owned place with an interior dining room and an open-air terrace. The ambience is slightly more “fancy” than that of Al Convento, where we had dined two days before. Our driver, Dino, had phoned ahead to reserve, which I would suggest even at lunchtime, as the restaurant is not large. Upon arriving we were presented with a brief menu of daily specials. Much to the dismay of my supposedly fish-hating travel partner (“supposedly” because he does make exceptions once in a while, as long as no shells are visible), every dish contained seafood of some kind, mostly the pesce azzurro (dark-fleshed fish: sardines, anchovies etc) for which this area is famous. No worries! After recovering from his surprise that anyone not enamored of fish would choose to dine here, the owner suggested a pasta dish of paccheri (short, thick tubes) in a sauce of mozzarella and tomato. I inquired about the artichokes we had seen near Paestum, only to be told that this was a specialty of Paestum and that the season was coming to a close. (This underscores the emphasis on local fare: Paestum is about an hour away and thus, artichokes from that area were viewed as coming from afar!)

At the recommendation of the owner, I selected the Antipasto Cetarese (10 Euro) which represented the area’s specialties in various guises. First came a dish of farro with pesce azzurro..delicious and unusual (to me) combination of fish with this ancient grain (according to Lidia Bastianich, who features a farro/mussel/chickpea dish in her “Lidia’s Italy” book, seafood combined with farro is a combination also prevalent in Puglia).

The next plate to arrive was a superb Tonno sott’ Olio--marvelous local tuna preserved in olive oil, reminiscent of the fine (and expensive) product available in glass jars in local food shops. (I recommend bringing some home, as prices are much lower than those in the US; I wish I had done this!). Truly wonderful. (I had trouble keeping this on my plate as it apparently appealed very much to my partner.)

Two types of anchovy, dark meat preserved in oil and white skinned fish in a vinegar base, came next, followed by a wonderful strudel of tuna and ricotta (here we have the fish/cheese combination again!)

This plate was served with a plate of small, hard biscuits studded with anchovies..pane de pescatore. You can imagine how these would be a staple of fisherman who spent long periods offshore but they must be an acquired taste. Interesting, though. I tried to find a recipe to post but those I saw had sugar and raisins, which these did not; apparently there are versions in several coastal regions of Italy.

After the antipasti, I had an excellent rendition of spaghetti vongole and the TP enthused over his paccheri.

Most of the diners at the other tables (the place was full; everyone else appeared to be local) were enjoying various pastas followed by fish, which I would sample on a future visit.

With water, but no wine, the bill totaled 54 Euro. Recommended (my companion liked Al Convento better, though; that restaurant has a much broader menu and a more casual feeling; they also serve pizza, as I mentioned)

By 3pm, we were aboard the SITA bus bound for Amalfi.


I have already mentioned the spectacular scenery along this stretch of coast. I also want to mention, for those interested in beaches on the Amalfi coast, that the town of Maiori has a vast beach, perhaps the longest on the coast. The town itself (the parts we saw fronting the drive) is more modern and less picturesque than others, (Maiori suffered a devastating flood and was extensively rebuilt) but my guess is that it would make a good base for anyone interested in well- priced accommodations in a “real” town. (The owner of the Hotel Floridiana lives here, as does Dino, our driver that day). Here is one hotel that was recommended to me in Maiori:


http://www.casaraffaeleconforti.it/eng/index.asp

And here is one that looks good and has reasonable prices:



http://www.palazzococo.it/index.htm




On the way back to the hotel, we passed through the Porta della Marina entrance to Amalfi and noticed a ceramic plaque on the wall which reads, in translation (please forgive mistakes!):

“Judgement Day when the Amalfitani go to Heaven, will be a day the same as any other day.”

Eks-
Once again, another delicious foodie report. The Amalfi coast is one of my favorite places and I relish the thought of spending a full week there someday. Sigh. Wish I was leaving tomorrow.
Just wondering, do you take pictures when you travel? You never post any of your own.

After short rest at the hotel, we walked west along the beach promenade and up the steps to the main road, heading for the Santa Caterina, Amalfi’s swankest hotel. Again, staff were most welcoming. The hotel is absolutely gorgeous and the views of the open sea and the town of Amalfi are stupendous. (More dramatic than those of Le Sireneuse in Positano, which is in the same class). The walk along the main road is not very pleasant but I suppose most guests stay put at the hotel for much of their stay; there is a pool (open when we visited) on the rocks overlooking the sea and the gardens are beautiful.

Sated from lunch, we decided on a simple dinner featuring pizza. I stopped into a local food shop on the main street and inquired about the best pizzerie in town. The friendly owner suggested two, both with wood-burning ovens: San Giuseppe (?) to the left as you face the Duomo, and Il Teatro, in the maze of scalinatelli (with your back to the sea, on your left). We headed for Il Teatro, at #19, Via E. Marini.


This casual restaurant/pizzeria, with its white walls hung with old photos of Amalfi (including one taken right after liberation, showing American tanks parked in front of the Duomo, and another taken in the throes of a bad storm and depicting immense waves crashing on the point under the Hotel Luna Convento) was filled with a mix of tourists and locals. It is a family operation run by a somewhat harried woman who directs much of her annoyance at her husband, who “supervises” calmly while she rushes to and fro taking orders and directing the cooks in the back.

I chose, again, the grilled provola cheese wrapped in lemon leaves. And with this, a green salad. We then shared a pizza Margherita (7 euro) which was, no surprise here, excellent. I do not, however, recommend the house rose!! With a spremute di limone and a Diet Pepsi, the bill here was 24 Euro. There is a fairly extensive non-pizza menu (seafood appeared on several other tables). Very good, especially for pizza. Fast service; tiled, wood-burning oven in the back. Remember to look at those photos!

Kristina: Thanks. I wish I could get on the plane with you right this minute! I definitely want to return. Soon!!

To answer your question, I do take digital photos but much to my embarrassment I do not know how to post them. (I am not computer savvy!) I have someone who helps me (further embarrassment!) put them on iPhoto but I can't post them from there....but I will work on this because one day I might like to have some kind of record with pics of my travel journals..

Our apartment was over 100 stairs right above Il Teatro so we ate there often. Sometimes it would be so amusing to watch the family dynamics. Some days they would bring in an older uncle to help out and other times a reluctant daughter or two. Sometimes when we were still there at closing they would finally relax and laugh amongst themselves.

It is nice to stay in one place like this and get to know the ins and outs of the local's lives. We have some stories !! I love your report needless to say.

Eks-
You can't post your photos here, but you could join a photo hosting website like Kodak and then post a link to it here. You might even be able to post a link to your photos on iPhoto, but I don't know that site.

Thank you! I'm bookmarking for our upcoming trip this June.

I am glad you are enjoying. I decided to buckle down and complete this relatively quickly instead of dawdling in my usual style.

SeaUrchin: I could not agree more..it is wonderful to remain in one place for awhile. I have to hear your stories someday soon!

Kristina: The iPhoto is the Mac application (is that the right word?) I would have to join a website and put the photos on that, I think, or I could buy some kind of Mac access, I think it is Mac Gallery or some name like that.. I am REALLY inept, though, but determined to learn so I will address this...



SO......





Thursday was May 1, a major holiday and the beginning of a four-day weekend for many Europeans. We had noticed many new arrivals the night before and there were new faces in the dining room at breakfast. Fearing the crowds on the buses, and wanting a day of total relaxation, we opted to remain in Amalfi on what was to be our last full day on the coast.


Agnese had mentioned the sweeping views from the cemetery perched above the town (on your right if you have your back to the sea), so we set out for that vantage point, through the winding, covered passageways, the scalinatelle, and up hundreds of steps. Again we were reminded of Moorish villages in southern Spain. We walked and walked, often meeting dead ends, and were reminded that townspeople used these passageways to hide when marauding Ottoman or Saracen pirates were spotted by watchmen in the coastal towers.

After about an hour we reached a ledge below the cemetery and the vistas of the town and the sea, over terraces dense with lemon trees (still mostly covered with protective black netting that would be removed as the weather warmed), was, indeed, superb. I highly recommend this walk, just be prepared for many steps and a few wrong turns as you ascend! Unfortunately, our entrance to the cemetery itself was thwarted by the custodian who informed us that it was closed due to the holiday. I guess the departed need a day to relax without having to entertain visitors!

Back then, along the winding stepped pathways to the Floridiana, where we changed into beach clothes after deciding to take advantage of the glorious weather.

I may have already mentioned this, but the restaurants along the Marina Grande have their own private bathing areas separate from the public section of the beach. We rented two chairs and an umbrella (10 Euro total; the price may rise in summer) from the friendly hosts at Ristorante Marina Grande and set ourselves down for a few hours in the sun. We had not seen many bathers before today, but on this clear and sunny holiday afternoon there were quite a few people in the calm Mediterranean. (It was too cold for us!) We noticed the many of our fellow loungers had brought food with them and others ordered from the restaurant menu and had their food brought to their chairs. No paper plates and plastic cups here! There are showers and changing rooms under the restaurant; cold showers are free; hot water showers require a nominal charge. No shampoo is allowed.

After a couple of hours, we headed back, changed into streetwear, and continued our explorations of Amalfi. The Duomo di Sant Andrea, with its bronze doors (said to be the oldest in Italy) commissioned in the 11th Century in Constantinople reminded us of the Amalfi Republic’s reign as one of the world’s strongest naval powers.

Of course, I spent an hour or so browsing the various shops in search of food products and gifts to bring home. Hopefully a cook friend will appreciate the bottle of colatura di alici! I never did succumb to the magnetism of those Il Duce aprons, though. The dominant theme in the shops here are lemons, lemons, lemons. The sfusati, the Amalfitan lemons with their pointed ends and distinctive fragrance that has earned them IGP protected status, make their appearance in their natural form at food shops and sold by vendors on the street, and in various products from lemon-imbued risotto rice (?) to perfumes to candles to ceramics and many other guises.


I priced the jarred Cetara tuna and various dried pastas and decided, perhaps wrongly, that the price savings did not warrant dragging them home with me. (Large jar of top-quality tuna: 9 Euro Medium jar of Fabbri cherries: 9 Euro to give just two examples) Of course I am now sorry but this does represent quite a departure for me since the days when I would routinely schlep home a dozen glass jars of ventresca tuna and several bottles of olive oil (just to name two of my usual staples) from every Spain and Italy trip. (Also, I was secretly hoping for lower prices in Naples.)


And then it was time to set out for our last dinner on he Amalfi Coast, at A Paranza, the cozy trattoria where we had so enjoyed our dinner four days before.

Another scrumptious trip report ek!

I am drooling at my desk

I haven't explored this part of Italy but reading your report has sure brought it to my attention...so many places so little time!

Looking forward to the rest!

Thanks! I highly recommend this area! Very highly!

Here is the website for the Ristorante San Pietro in Cetara, with some photos of the dining area and the specialties:


http://www.sanpietroristorante.it/

Second dinner at A Paranza in Atrani:

A Paranza as our favorite restaurant of the week (with Al Convento in Cetara a close second) so we chose it for our farewell dinner on the coast.

I mentioned this above but I think it bears repeating: I notied that the Italian diners did not even glance at their printed menus but, rather, consulted extensively with the owner/waiter before ordering. The Rome-based food writer Maureen Fant put it well: “the better you talk, the better you eat!” I decided to follow this advice and mentioned that I wanted to eat shellfish and that my partner wanted no fish dishes. The owner surprised us by remembering the wine we had the first time and asked if that would be all right tonight. So we drank the Falango Falghina which is one of the house wines. (I am sorry that we did not sample the wines from Furore, which I later read were he best on the coast).

This was our dinner:


Complimentary bruschetta, a few slices topped with chopped tomato and the others left unadorned

Mixed clams in oil and garlic. This dish contained two types of clams, the vongole veraci and the tartufi di mare and was among my favorite dishes of the week.

Fiore di Zucca stuffed with ricotta and anchovy..a repeat of the first night and again, superb! (Very little anchovy flavor; my partner thought it was stuffed only with ricotta)

Paccheri, the short, wide tubes dressed with gamberoni served with their heads (the meat inside the head is scrumptious even if you have to suck it out!); tomatoes; and arugula. Wonderful, wonderful. I plan to make this tomorrow with long pasta and the cheese I brought home which will stand in for the shrimp.

Gnocchi (Thursday is gnocchi day in Rome and probably here, too) with tomato and mozzarella. This must have been delicious because there was not one tiny bite left for me to sample!

For dessert we shared a house dessert of light lemon cake draped with pale yellow lemon cream. I hate to say this, again, but it was fabulous!!

This was my favorite meal in a week of superlative eating. With the full bottle of wine, and water, cover and service, we paid 68 Euro, or $104US at today’s exchange rate.



On the way to the restaurant we paid a visit to the Luna Convento Hotel where we had considered staying. Although we chose the Floridiana because of the price difference of 80 Euro and a few less-than-great reviews of the Luna on TA, we thought that the Luna was absolutely beautiful. The staff were very welcoming and allowed us to wander through the public rooms including a courtyard with potted lemon trees. The views of both the open sea and the town of Amalfi from this former convent are stupendous. The hotel is about a 10 minute (slow) walk from the main square. There is a pool (not large) at sea level, access to which would entail crossing the road and walking down a flight of steps. The pool was not filled on May 1 but should be a wonderful amenity in season. Unfortunately I neglected to ask for a peek at a room. The price for a standard sea view room was quoted to us as 220 Euro with the deluxe rooms costing about 60 euro more than that. This is much less expensive than the prices at the more manicured Santa Caterina on the other side of town. But we had been very happy at the Floridiana and glad we had chosen it as our Amalfi base.

And, finally, we returned to the hotel and packed our things in preparation of the next morning's 9:30am departure by car to Pompeii and Naples.

ellenem, the burrata sounds divine! You described it very well. I had seen it on Lidia's Italy and want to try it.

ek, this is great. Interesting about the fish and cheese together. I thought the Italians never did that.

The fish and cheese taboo is ingrained, or so I thought. (although I remember reading that the combination is used in Sardinia.) We once had a discussion about this subject on Fodor's with Franco.

But look at this article I just found in a search:


http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/30/magazine/30food-t.html?_r=1&n=Top/Reference/Times%20Topics/People/P/Pasternack,%20David&oref=slogin

That's an interesting article. I do remember the discussion with Franco as well.

bookmarking.

eks-
You might also look at shutterfly.com as a place to upload your pictures so people can see them.

BTW, I had to laugh at your expectation of the road to Paestum being lined with buffalo mozzarella stands. I too had that same vision. I'm glad it was you and not me who had her illusions shattered first.

Eks,

Really enjoying your report. You're making me want to return just to visit all the great restaurants you tried!

Glad you visited Paestum. I thought it was fascinating. Sounds like the private driver was a great way to get there.

All I can say is...sigh...

The following day, Friday, we had arranged to be collected at 9:30am by Renato Cuomo for the trip to Naples with a stop of 2.5 hours in Pompeii. (I would recommend departing much earlier, so to be present at Pompeii at opening time)

Interesting factoid: Mr. Cuomo once drove then-New York State governor Mario Cuomo and his wife; Cuomo is an old Sorrento name and Mario’s family originated there.

www.cuomonet.it

This was the first time that I remember having had tears in my eyes upon checking out of a hotel. We will never forget Agnese and MariaRosa and hauntingly lovely Amalfi and hope to return in the not-too-distant future. The hotel bill for 5 nights was 700 euro, a price we consider to be a bargain given the comfort level and convenience of the hotel and the charm and efficiency of the owner-managers.

Sr. Cuomo arrived early, at 9am, and by 9:15 with the help of MariaRosa , we had loaded the baggage into his comfortable new van, and were off along the now-familiar drive, through Conca dei Marini and Furore to Agerola and on to the highway towards Pompei. Nearing Pompei, we did spot some overflowing garbage bins, reminders of the trash crisis that grips the Naples region. (We did not encounter much uncollected trash in the city center; more on this later). At 10:30 we were at the entrance gate of Pompeii, at Porta Marina, where Sr. Cuomo let us off and where we would meet him 2.5 hours later for the drive to our hotel in Naples.

The price for the transfer from Amalfi to our Naples hotel, with a stop and 2.5 hours waiting time in Pompeii, was 160 Euro, which seems to be today’s going rate. (I had done some checking in advance and also conferred with Agnese at our hotel on this subject)

Upon entering the gates, we were horrified to encounter a huge crowd in front of the ticket booths. Hundreds of people milled about, many in various states of confusion. Joining the throng, we quickly realized that, fro the looks of things, the wait to buy tickets would eat up at least 30 of our precious minutes. So we quickly scuttled our original plan to tour the site with our trusty guidebook, and Anthony Peregrine’s Times (UK) article on how to avoid the scrum of group tourists “wearing yellow baseball caps or lapel badges.” (This escellent article outlines a 6 hour tour, but we had marked the passages covering the spots we wanted to see, including the Villa of Mysteries)


http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/travel/destinations/italy/article828603.ece



With our original plan now discarded, we went to plan B. Sprinkled through the crowd were official guides, busily attempting to herd together groups of visitors for their own tours. One of these guides was the English-speaking Ciro Favicchio, who had already assembled most of his group and was attempting to round up a few more stragglers from the crowds clamoring for admission. We quickly realized that only by joining one of these groups could we bypass the huge line and hope to see anything of the site before the appointed meeting time with Sr. Cuomo. So, with much trepidation, I handed over the cash for two entrance tickets and Ciro maneuvered his way to the cashier and returned, two tickets in hand.

These Pompeii guides charge 10 Euro per person for a tour of about 90 minutes; if you are really pressed for time and want to tour the site on your own, you might even consider tipping them a lesser amount to get you the entrance tickets and then go your own way. Many speak excellent, if somewhat quirky, English. The 10 Euro tour fee is collected by the guide at the end of the group tour. Better yet, allow more than 2.5 hours so you will not be crazed when you arrive and notice the amount of people on line before you. Better yet, arrive at opening time! If I were to return, however, I would book a private tour with an academic focus that would hopefully allow more than just a cursory glimpse of the wonders of Pompeii.


And so, scrambling to keep up with our quick-paced tour guide, a group of about 20 English speakers from various countries, set off on a trip back more than 20 centuries to the days when the city of Pompeii was a thriving Roman commercial center of 20,000 or so souls, on the plain of the Sarno River.

I will not go into the history or details about the actual site which can be found in any guidebook, as well as in the very good free booklet and map handed out near the cashier window upon presentation of an entrance ticket. But I will mention that the site is overwhelming, sprawling over 163 acres and clogged with what seemed like thousands of tourists, most hurrying to keep up with their flag-toting guides while snapping pictures in every direction. I had b een to Ercolano years ago and remember this other victim of Vesuvius’ wrath as much less crowded and in a better state of preservation.

Pompeii is just mind-boggling in its vastness. Our guide spent too much time attempting to warm up his audience with jokes and evading most questions that would require substantial explanations. Fine, if you want a quick peek. Not good if you really want a meaningful experience. For some reason, all of the tour guides seem to follow the same route so there are often huge throngs waiting to enter a particular house or area. Why don’t they vary their itinerary? The worst of the crowds appeared at the entrance to the Lupanare, or brothel (#39 o the official map) where paintings on the walls depict the brothel women (slaves, usually Greek or of ‘Oriental” origin) and their “johns” in various erotic positions.

We had especially wanted to visit three places: The House of the Vetii, the House of the Faun, and the Villa dei Misteri. Guide Ciro told us that the first was temporarily closed, but we did manage to convince him to include the second in our tour, which he did only after many requests on my part. We also covered many of the other “main” sites, the Forum, Temple of Apollo, Stabian baths, and Basilica. After almost 90 minutes, we had had enough of the herding around and the superficial commentary and, after paying the guide 20 Euro for the tow of us, struck off on our own for the Villa dei Misteri, which stands about 20 minutes on foot from the Porta Marina entrance along roads of uneven blocks of stone. It goes without saying that comfortable shoes and plenty of water are essential! It was certainly well worth the walk and well worth the entire price of admission to view the frescoes adorning the walls of this sprawling and palatial abode; these depict a young bride on the eve of marriage, surrounded by Bacchus, various handmaidens, children, and other figures and are said to represent among the finest examples of ancient paintings surviving today, while continuing to provoke debate among scholars as to meaning. Here we encountered no large groups and only a few other independent tourists; I suspect that the villa is left off of most group tours because of its location near the northwestern perimeter of the site.

Again, although our visit allowed us a quick peek into the wonder of Pompeii, I would recommend that anyone with a more than cursory interest plan to allow more time than the 2.5 hours we allotted and, ideally, arrange for a tour with a guide whose academic credentials might surpass those of some of the “official” guides for hire on the spot. It is possible, however, that our guide just tailored his group tour to suit what he perceived as the common denominator; he did tell us that he was the author of a guide to Pompeii on sale at the bookshop(Mr. Cuomo later scoffed at this and we had no time to verify) If you want to inquire about the possibility of arranging a private tour with him, his details are:


Dott. Ciro Favicchio faro44@libero.it

Eksc - Thank you so much for this detailed report. You have changed my mind to base in Amalfi and I will have to give careful consideration as to when we visit Pompeii.

If I may ask about Hotel Floridiana...do any terrace rooms have a water view? I had my heart set on being able to sit out at night after sightseeing, sipping on wine or a limoncello, however I realize I may have to make adjustments. This hotel is 100 E less than the one I was looking at in Positano (with view) which certainly makes it appealing...especially too because I may be paying part of the hotel bill for the other couple going with us. Your comment about the noise in the terrace rooms also concerns me as I would like a quiet room. If you can provide any more details about Hotel Floridiana, I would appreciate it?

Travelfan: There are no rooms with a water view. The hotel is in the town, about a 3 minute walk from the water. I, too, had that idea of sitting out on the terrace and relaxing, but decided against spending so much more for the privledge. However, I did come across a couple of other hotels in Amalfi that do offer water views. I did not go inside these but you could check the prices of the Marinariviera and the Miramalfi, and also the Bussola.

There are SO many places to relax and drink on the sea in Amalfi that it really did not matter to us that we did not have our own terrace. But remember that I was not on a honeymoon, so if you are looking for a really romantic hotel, I am not sure that the Floridiana would fit the bill because of the lack of view.

The hotel is so delightful and the people so gracious that I would urge you to consider if it meets your needs. We did not hear ANY noise from our room; the glazing is very good. But since it is on the street, I wanted to mention this because sometimes people here say that they are such light sleepers that outside noise would disturb them. Agnese, the owner, is very responsive to e-mails so you could ask her any questions. I am very happy to tell you anything else about the hotel, or about Amalfi. Just ask!

Also this is one instance that the photos on the website really undersell the hotel..it is nicer than it looks in the photos.

Last July my boyfriend and I spent 10 days in Cetera, lodging at the Cetus Hotel. It was lovely, we had a small balcony overlooking the bay. Almost every night, there was a fireworks display, just outside our windows, for various occasions.
The staff was very friendly, and were frantic when we did not come back one night. They called the hospital and the police to find us! We could not find the bus back from Pompeii and were forced to spend the night!! I do not recommend the Villa Diana, a real dump near the bus depot in Pompeii. Ugh, but at lest we had a place to sleep.
I remembered many of the spots described...Ravello, Amalfi, Midori.
I fondly recall the 3 woman in a local shop who helped me pick out clothing for my boyfriend . His luggage was a no show (thanks, Alitalia) for the whole trip, and we were constantly buying shirts and pants and underwear, hoping that each day would be the day the suitcase would bew found. NOT! Tehy were so happy with the amount of clothing purchased, that they gave me a bag of lemons to take back to the hotel. We had them squeezed and drank som great lemonade the next day.
The evening before our return trip, we also dined at Al Covento. It was delightful, and probably the best meal of the entire trip. I have a photo of the two of us sitting on the balcony, enjoying a glass of manderinocello (sp?) after dinner. Ah, what a delight!

Squeaky I am delighted to read of your experiences at the Cetus! I think it would be a wonderful place to stay and I have now put it on my list for the future! Is there a beach of any kind at the hotel, or do guests go to the town beach?

Many, many thanks for reporting on your stay there!

..Also, what prompted you to choose the hotel and Cetara for a base?? Thanks!

NAPLES


We arrived in Naples about 1:30 and Sr. Cuomo dropped us off at Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri in the Chiaia district between the Piazza dei Martiri and the Via Chiaia. I had vacillated once again, in our choice of hotel, between the historic center of Naples and the more upscale Chiaia. The historic district would be closer to Spaccanapoli and most of the sights we planned to visit on this trip, but I perceived Chiaia as being closer to restaurants and, more important, safer. I was glad we had chosen the Palazzo Alabardieri, which we thought was an excellent hotel at a decent price, 195 Euro. (The hotel is currently rated #2 of Naples hotels on Trip Advisor) The rack rate was 220 but we received the lower price by booking on the hotel’s website:

http://www.hotelpalazzoalabardieri.com/

Since our room was not ready on arrival, we were accoreded the courtesy of an upgrade to a superior room which was quite luxurious, with a comfortable King-sized bed and high quality linens, large bathroom with shower and Rance amenities, sofa, and revolving television set that offered what seemed like a thousand channels streamed in from everywhere from Abu Dhabi to the US.

While waiting for the room to be readied, we set out for a walk to the sea and along the Via Partenope, where sunbathers were sprawled along the rocks and people were out strolling and enjoying the glorious weather of this holiday weekend, to the Piazza del Plebicito and along the Via Chiaia, eventually returning to the hotel. I had been anxious about Naples, due to reports I had read about petty crime and especially after being robbed in Palermo, but I quickly relaxed. We liked Naples very much from our first moments in the city. If there is a city whose people appear more filled with the sheer joy of life, I have not yet been there!

Once back at the hotel, we quickly unpacked a few things before setting out once again, this time for the district known as Spaccanapoli. On the way, we made the first of what would be many snack breaks, at Sfogliatelle Mary, at the Via Toledo entrance to the Galleria Umberto. More on this stupendous little shop and its miraculous namesake treats, soon….

Here are just a few more tidbits before my weekend break away from the computer:




I have never considered myself to be a fan of Italian pastry, an opinion shaped, no doubt, by too many soggy cannoli here in the US. That view quickly went out the window after having my first bite at Sfofgliatelle Mary, the tiny take-out stall on Via Toledo, considered to be one of the best purveyors of this typical Neopolitan delight in the city. Sfogliatelle is a multi-layered composition of thin sheets of pastry enclosing a filling of sweetened ricotta cheese often flavored with citrus peel and served warm from the oven. No description can do these justice!! Make certain you sample these on your visit to Naples! Here is a photo, and further description:


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sfogliatelle

This was just the first of several food epiphanies we had on that first day in Naples.


Sated with our mid-afternoon treat, we continued our walk north along the Via Toledo, mingling with what seemed like thousands of Neopolitans strolling and shopping, both in the boutiques lining the street and at the make-shift sidewalk posts of immigrant vendors offering sunglasses (huge and studded with rhinestones are the ones to buy this season) and replicas of designer handbags. The police keep the latter on the run and time after time we saw these West African vendors sweep up the white sheets with their merchandise into a bundle at the approach of the snappily uniformed Guardia de la Fianza, and beat a hasty retreat, only to return to the same sidewalk spot within minutes.

Fashion note: In addition to the huge, rhinestone-adorned sunglasses, which should shield a good proportion of one’s face (!), there were at least two other “essentials” this season:

Belt buckles, the larger the better and also studded with rhinestones, and boots (for women). Flat boots, high-heeled boots, worn despite the outdoor temperatures, with short skirts, with shorts, and with cropped pants, these last two worn as tight as possible. Those are just the basics. Neopolitan fashion styles are different than those we had seen further north on previous trips. More flamboyant, for one thing, to match the city itself.

please continue!!

What a delicious trip report to find on a Saturday morning! We're headed to North Beach for a birthday feast later today and now I'm ready! Grazie, ekscrunchy. I want to go to Amalfi!

Dina4: I am glad you are enjoying. I wish I could be on the plane with you on your upcoming trip!

Where are you headed in Sardinia? Can you tell us your hotels for each of your different stops? (I just like dreaming..)

I will finish up after the weekend; more good eating and exploring in Naples to come! I realize in reading this over that people will think that all we cared about is food! Well, that is not the entire truth but it certainly plays a big role in every trip!

Here is a report I wrote on Rome early last year, with lots of food, and another on Tuscany and Bologna from 2006:



http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34931625


http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34743272

ekscrunchy --
i actually have great notes from your trip reports! This year, we plan to try Trattoria Monti in Rome and Il Guscio in Florence.

okay now... more about Naples, please!

Thanks for such a great report. I am going to the Amalfi Coast this October for 1 week and anxiously looking forward to eating at some of the restaurants that you mentioned. My last trip to that area was in Oct. 2000 and I really am very excited about returning to one of my favorite vacation sites.

More great stuff, eks ! So glad to hear you liked Naples.

Your report of the crowds at Pompeii has made me think even more I'll stick to my plan of visiting it outwith the summer months one year, to try to avoid the crowds & heat - I'm thinking maybe it would be nice to go for a long weekend around March to see Pompeii, Herculaneum and the Phlegrean Fields. You were there in early May, weren't you ? Surprised to hear it was already so busy. Did you see stray dogs ? A previous poster did put me off slightly by saying there were lots & it wouldn't be much fun for anyone who doesn't like dogs.

Caroline I did not see any stray dogs at Pompeii or anywhere else. But the crowds the first week in May (this was Friday May 2 so it might have been more crowded than usual) were immense.

But I suspect that with better planning I could have avoided some of them: Maybe by going earlier or by first visiting some of the less-well-known places within the site. I think everyone congregates around the places close to the entrance and follows the same general plan; that is why that article from the Times would be good to use as a general guide. But that said, it would certainly be better to go in March! You are so fortunate to be closer to Italy than we are here in the US!

I keep saying I want to go to Italy, now I really have to go to Italy!!

We bought buratta in Zupans Mkt in Portland Or the last summer we were there, oh my....

I have not had good Sfogliatele since leaving NY...see...I Have to go to Italy!!

Thanks ekscrunchy, this is my husbands reading assignment for tonight

EKSCRUNCY:
The Cetus was the tour hotel (ABC, don't recommend them at all) and we stayed there 10 days. There is a nice beach, you need to climb down a flight of stairs to get to the bottom. Small snack stand, chaises, umbrellas, perfect for a day at the beach. Loved the hotel, hated the tour personnel.

Eks -

I just read your Montepulciano trip report and saw that I am staying at the same hotel in Montepulciano. I am so glad to hear you enjoyed your stay. I am thinking about a tour of Avignonesi. Just looked at the website and it looks wonderful. Hopefully they still have availability. We leave in less than two weeks.

BTW - At dinner (Central by Michel Richard in DC) on Saturday I had a wonderful appetizer of Burrata with roasted little peeled cherry tomatoes. It was creamy, oozy heaven. $14 for the app. I did not think that was too bad.

Thanks again for the report. I also had one quick question. We are driving from Montepulciano to the AC. We are going to drive alon gthe coast and stop in Ravello for lunch before returning our car at 6 pm in Sorrento. Would you recommend stopping in Cetara for lunch over Ravello? I thought we should try something a little more out of the way while we still have a car. We are staying in Positano.

CJA: Yes, I would stop in Cetara if your main interest is in eating great food and seeing a non-touristy fishing village. You will be able to see Ravello by bus once you are settled in Positano (you can see Cetara that way, too, of course, but it is further away). If you are taking the highway past Naples, you should get off at the Vietri exit (double check this) ; Cetara is very close to this. After lunch you can continue west along the Amalfi Drive itself.

You have a treat in store in Montepulciano. The hotel is nice but what made our stay truly unforgettable is the owner, Roberto. Please say hello to him, if you remember, from the couple from New York who visited Avignonesi in January. And tell him that he looks like the tennis player, Yannick Noah; he loves tennis, too!! A real character and exceedingly congenial and helpful. It sounds like a fantastic trip!!


Scarlett: Yes, you MUST go to Italy! After all, you cannot exist on steak alone, even if it is THAT great!!

Squeaky: Thanks. I was surprised to read that ABC used that hotel; I would have guessed that the guests were mostly Italian. Your account of the hotel really convinced us to put it on the list for the future.


..continued...



We began our brief, late afternoon visit to Spaccanapoli with a visit to the Church of Gesu Nuovo. The diamond point façade that hints of its past as part of the Sanseverino family’s 15th Century palace:


http://www.terragalleria.com/europe/italy/napoli/picture.ital7420.html



encloses a Baroque masterwork known for its colored marble and frescoes. If you visit, make sure to see the chapel that contains the plaques dedicated to physician and Saint Giuseppe Moscati. These framed silver-colored ex votos give testimony to the healing powers of Moscati with hearts, legs, feet, and other body parts he is said to have healed.

Here is a site detailing some of the miracles this beloved saint is said to have accomplished:

http://www.moscati.com/English/En_Grazie5.html

And here are a few photos of the Gesu Nuovo:


http://www.gesuiti.it/moscati/Italiano/It_chiesaGN.html

From the Gesu Nuovo, we walked the short distance to the Capella Sanseverino. Our walk took us past the famous Scaturchio Pasticceria and it was only with tremendous fortitude that we were able to forego stopping for their world-famous sfogliatelle:


http://www.scaturchio.it/homepage.html


The Capella Sansevero is the funerary chapel of the Di Sangro family and is adorned with the works of several world-renowned sculptors commissioned by the eccentric price of the family in the 18th Century, the most famous of which is Sammartino’s “Christo Velato,” with a transparent veil draping the reclining figure of the dead Christ.

Perhaps even more astounding is the artistry of the the figure to the right of the altar, “Il Disinganno, “ or “Dillusionment” by Franceso Queirolo. My partner had trouble believing that the fishing net (see photo below) was actually carved of marble, a difficulty shared by many other visitors, according to the guide in the chapel. Don’t forget to look up at the spectacular carved and gilded ceiling, and to visit the somewhat creepy anatomical figures displaying the human cardiovascular system in the basement.



http://www.napoliontheroad.it/Immagini/disinganno.jpg




By now it was time to make our way back to the hotel, but first, we stopped at a friggitoria, one of the sidewalk stalls dotting the historic center and offering a variety of Sfizzi Fritti, the fried snacks for which Naples is so beloved by food-centric visitors…..more soon..

Naples famous fried snacks take many forms, including fried fish, fried dough (zeppole and panzarotti, to name two versions), fried vegetables, fried potatoes, and myriad others. We had time only to taste a few of these. I cannot think of a better, and less expensive, gastronomic treat than the gloriously salty but not greasy 20-cent arancini piccoli that we sampled that afternoon. Arancini are fried rice balls usually stuffed with either meat, meat and peas, or cheese. These were stuffed with cheese and were sublime, as was my fiore di zucca, fried zucchini flower. Essential on any visit to Naples! And if you are on a budget, I cannot think of a better city in which to eat than Naples, with its premier pizza and world of street snacks.


Before we left the US I had reserved a table for dinner via e-mail at the Restaurant Umberto, a few steps from the hotel on Via Alabardieri. Umberto is a well-known local place with a cool modern interior and 1950s photos on the tomato red walls. That Friday night it was packed with locals and a few tourists; there was a birthday party for a small boy in the side room, who were dining on appetizers and Umberto’s pizzas, which receive high marks in local food critics. This is an example of their Menu della Settimana, which changes weekly, with prices:

http://www.umberto.it/?center=menu&ID=4


And, to give an idea, here is their pizza menu, with prices:

http://www.umberto.it/?center=menu&ID=3


We began our dinner with a platter of tiny meatballs in a tomato sauce..superb..and a platter of fried zucchin flowers (I could not get enough of these and they, too, were superb!)

For my main course I had burrida di seppie, squid with artichokes, Seppie con Carciofi, lightly stewed. Very good.

My partner had his first pizza in Naples, a margherita. The reports of its greatness are not exaggerated!

And finally, my quest for Asprinio de Aversa wine was fulfilled with a frizzante version of this wine from I Borboni: Umberto’s list also offers the wine in a spumante version. I loved it! (Notice the characteristic string which ties the cork)



http://www.iborboni.com/it/index_it.html

The bill totaled 43 euro, quite a good value.

Oh, I could have tears now !
Umberto, oh my God at Vico Alabardieri, very close to Piazza dei Martiri, the most elegant square of Naples.
How many and many pizza I ate at Umberto when I was very young and studied at Naples University.
I will never forget and I want to thank you that were able to refresh in a very sweet way my memory.

Vincenzo

Vicenzo, I am glad if I was able to bring you a sweet memory, if only for a moment!

I had to finish quickly yesterday and just wanted to say that Umberto was an excellent restaurant. After dinner we walked west along Via Alabardieri; there is a lot of nightlife in that area--many small bars and restaurants that were overflowing with young people, so much so that it was difficult to walk along the smaller streets because they were so crowded with people! It is a lovely neighborhood and not for one minute did I feel nervous about walking around, even at night. Naples surely does not deserve its dicey reputation, based on my own, albeit brief, experiences!

I will return later with our last day in Naples, which includes a sampling of one of the city's most legendary pizzas.

I just looked at my photos from the Caseficio near Paestum and wanted to add here that they offer 26 types of cheeses, ranging from 8.50 to 13.50 Euro per kilo, along with a scamorza with soppressata (salami) for 18 Euro per kilo.

Burrata is, indeed, on the list, and they offer three types of butter as well!

More fantastic stuff, eks - now I have to go back to Naples too to try the food places you visited ! I thought seppie was cuttlefish, though ?

Sigh, only 32 days until our hol, though !

Glad to hear you weren't aware of stray dogs at Pompeii.

Caroline you are correct..I usually confuse squid and cuttlefish, both in Italy and in Spain, where they are both also popular. I can't discern too much difference in taste between the two.. Thanks for the correction.

I just loaded my photos onto my computer and when I look at them, the entire week feels like a dream. This certainly will not be our last time in the region!

I will finish up very soon...

I forgot to add these notes earlier in the report:



I will make a note here about two new hotel properties in the area: Work continues on the Cappuchini Convento in Amalfi and locals told us that they will be open by next summer. And, in Conca de Marini, the Convento di Santa Rosa, which dates from the 15th Century and must offer some of the most astounding views on a coast filled with astounding views, has apparently (this from Sr. Cuomo) been purchased by an heiress from North Carolina and is slated to be transformed into a hotel.

Bookmarking

We were up early the next morning, Saturday, ready to begin our last full day in Naples. A buffet breakfast is included in the room price of the Palazzo Alabardieri and consists of excellent pastries—croissants, pan au chocolat, and even sfogliatelle—along with heavier items including bacon and eggs. I should mention that the hotel provides guests with a free reprint of the Naples section from the DK Eyewitness guidebook.

After breakfast, armed with the Streetwise Map of Naples, we headed for the grid of shadowy streets called the Tavoliere, or chessboard, to the west of Via Toledo in the Quartiere Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarter. Lined with tall, narrow tenement-type buildings often strung with laundry and scribbled with graffiti, this is the quintessential Naples of legend and postwar film. Our goal was Via Pignasecca and its cross streets, which throb with activity as one of the city’s oldest markets unfolds each morning beginning about 8am. Food of every description, housewares, cheap clothing, and all manner of bric a brac spill from the open-air stands and the shops lining the narrow streets filled with the clamor of vendors proclaiming the plumpest artichokes or the freshest squid.

From here we found our way back to the Via Toledo and walked north towards Piazza Bellini, the only place in the central city where we saw the overflowing trash bins familiar from so many news accounts.


A walk along the Via Sta Maria di Constantinopoli, lined with book and map sellers, too us to the Hotel Constantinopoli 104, where we had considered staying and which receives excellent reviews. Ensconced behind an unprepossessing façade, the low-rise villa houses lovely, tastefully decorated interior spaces as well as a small pool which looked inviting. The staff here, again, were gracious in allowing us to wander through the public areas. At 220 Euro double, this hotel was 25 Euros more expensive than the Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri and preferred our Chiaia neighborhood. Nevertheless, this hotel enjoys a location that certainly be ideal for a tourist who wanted to concentrate on the sights within Spaccanapoli and the archeological museum.

To Ekscrunchy-I see you spent time with my son and daughter in law in NYC this weekend. Bon chance!

Yes, Waldo! They are a lot of fun and I hope to see them again next time!

Nice trip report, eks. Sounds like you enjoyed the Chiaia neighborhood and especially Ristorante Umberto as much as we did. Naples is an amazing city -- so incredibly vibrant, don't you think? One of my favorites places in Italy so far.

Hazel: Yes, vibrant is the world for Naples! IN the days after we got home, I noticed that midtown Manhattan seemed very quiet and almost deserted in comparison with the crowds and energy we had experienced walking around Naples! Two days really was far too short a time but at least it gave us a taste of the city.

Here is a bit more of the report:



After a walk that took us through the Piazza Dante, we headed back to the Via dei Tribunali and made our way to the 16th-Century church of San Gregorio Armeno, a gilded jewelbox that has been described as “a room of paradise on earth” for the nuns who occupy its adjoining convent. The carved wooden ceiling is nothing short of astonishing!

Outside, the narrow Via San Gregorio Armeno is headquarters for the craftsmen who fashion the intricate figures and accessories that will find homes within the elaborate Christmas nativity scenes, or presepi, that spring up throughout the city during the holiday season. The figures for sale here represent everyone from Luciano Pavarotti to the baby Jesus and assorted angels and saints, with soccer stars and political figures in plentiful supply.

Our next stop was the Monte de Pieta, open only on the weekends (during the week the lavish Baroque interiors house the offices of the San Paolo Banco di Napoli).

Our next stop was the Monte de Pieta, open only on the weekends (during the week the lavish Baroque interiors house the offices of the San Paolo Banco di Napoli). Admission is free. After a walk through the courtyard and ornate galleries filled with decorative arts and ecclesiastical cothing and accessories, we were dove once again into the narrow streets of Spaccanapoli and once again, made our way to the Via dei Tribunali, the former Decumanus Maximus, the major east-west street of the Roman city.


The Via dei Tribunali is home to two of Naples’ legendary addresses: DiMatteo, at #94 and Sorbillo, at #32. These two names show up on every list of Naples best pizzerie. If we had had more time in the city, I am sure we would have visited both but on this day, we had to make a choice and so we headed for Sorbillo. (Their site has photos and a menu):

http://www.pizzeriasorbillo.it/

Happily, there were a few tables free when we arrived shortly after noon. (By 1:15pm on this Saturday, there was a large cluster of people waiting in the street outside) Is the pizza in Naples as good as everyone says? Yes, yes, and yes! My partner, the purist, had the simple Margarita (3.30 Euro) and I had the artichoke-bedecked Elena (4.80 Euro). We drank Cokes with our pizza. Is there a better 12 Euro meal available anywhere in Europe? I seriously doubt it!

After that superlative lunch, we began walking again, this time south along Via Toledo and Via Chiaia, through the Piazza dei Martiri to the water and the Castel dell’ Ovo. The views of Vesuvius from inside, framed by the castle’s thick stone walls, are classic! Wandering along the waterfront promenades, we came across a number of bridal couples posing for photos.

And finally, it was time to return to our hotel to relax a bit before dinnertime. We had planned to dine that last night at Europeo Mattozzi, but eventually decided against this SlowFood restaurant because of its location a long walk from the hotel. (The front desk person told us that the restaurant’s owners had opened a sister establishment close to the hotel, but we had had no reports of this place and I was a bit hesitant.) But that morning on our walk through the Spanish Quarter we had come across Hosteria Toledo, another SlowFood pick and we liked the look of it so much that we had booked a table for 8:30 that evening).

You mentioned the Piazza Dante. One of the best highlights in a Naples visit, I believe, is unknown to everyone but me. There is a McDonald's on Via Toledo, across from Piazza Dante. I know, McDonald's ugh! However, you go into McD and order anything whatsoever. You the go upstairs to the second floor and you will see the wall that faces the Piazza is all glass. You then sit at a table adjoining the large window-wall, and enjoy the fantastic bird's eye view of the liveliness of the Piazza from an incomparable angle. I have maintained my sitting position for hours, watching the story of Naples unfold beneath me. The university is located in the Piazza, so you can also see the young people of Napoli in their element. It's like watching a documentary, but in real time. It's amazing. I don't know if anyone but I have appreciated this adventure.

I'd still rather sit outside a bar in the square itself with a Negroni

Bentornata Eks (- belated, I know)

I've been waiting till I had time to savour your report (- just back from holiday too). Great reading! You've bought back so many memories ...

I shall look at Amalfi in a whole new perspective next time (- I've always considered it second-best compared to Positano, I admit).

I've been drooling over some of your meals, too.
Sfogliatelle? I used to breakfast on them every time I was in Naples - fresh out of the oven. Irresistable!

Better start planning my next visit

Steve

I am glad you are all enjoying!

I missed the McDonald's but I did notice a Mexico coffee shop; I remembered reading that they had some of the city's best coffee. But we did not sample on this trip.

SteveJames: Welcome back!

bookmarking

Another walk along our now familiar route took us from the Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri, east on the pedestrian-only Via Chiaia and north on Via Toledo, and then west for about a block on Vico Giardinetti to our destination at #78A at the edge of the Spanish Quarter, Hosteria Toledo. This cozy two-level restaurant was close to empty when we entered, but before an hour had passed the first floor room where we were seated was full and hopeful diners were being turned away to the door or told to return in an hour. The diners were a mix of tourists and locals and the ratio changed to mostly locals as the night progressed.

The hosteria is run by a friendly couple; she waits on tables and he takes orders and supervises. The printed menu, supplemented by daily specials, reads like a greatest hits of Neopolitan classics.

For our last dinner of the week, we had:

Salad of mozzarella red peppers and tomatoes

Buccatini al forno.. long pasta baked with tomatoes and mozzarella (this was one of my partner’s favorite dishes of the week)

Sote di vongole..a very good rendition of one of my favorite dishes of the week (perhaps not as spectacular as the version I had enjoyed at A Paranza, but still excellent)

Paccheri Toledo..house special pasta consisting of thick wide tubes of cut pasta with mozzarella, peas, tomatoes and mushrooms. Cheesy goodness!

Eggplant Parmigiana..wonderful, wonderful!

With water and a bottle of house wine (unlabeled bottle), the bill totaled 55 euro.

Hosteria Toledo is a SlowFood eatery, closed Tuesday at dinnertime.


We walked back to the hotel. The next morning we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before checking out and leaving for the airport in a taxi about 10:30. The ride took us through Chiaia and Vomero and we were able to catch a few last glimpses of the Bay of Naples before heading out on the highway to Capodichino Airport. The ride to the airport took about 30 minutes, maybe less, on that Sunday morning. Although the taxi meter read 18 Euro, the driver claimed a price of 25 Euro due to the travel to the airport and the charge for the two suitcases. I had no doubt then, and I have little doubt now, that he was padding the charge by a few euro but we were in no mood to argue and had not checked the matter out beforehand. In any case, the hotel had quoted us a price of 40 euro for the trip to the airport with a private driver. (I suspect we could have managed to get a better price for this had we been interested).

Our Iberia flight took off just a few minutes late and, soon after 1pm we were aloft and looking down at our last glimpse of the city of Naples and its glorious harbor. We had been anxious about our short connection time (70 minutes) in Madrid but, as I said earlier, the Madrid airport is a marvel and we had transferred terminals and arrived at the departure gate for our JFK-bound flight in 30 minutes, leaving time left for some quick last minute browsing of the airport shops before boarding the aircraft.

And that is the story of our marvelous, unforgettable week on the Amalfi Coast and in the city of Naples. It will not be our last visit!


http://www.hotelfloridiana.it/


http://www.hotelpalazzoalabardieri.com/

ek, thanks for all the great information. I can't wait to be there in July!

Thanks so much, ekscrunchy!

I LOVED reading your report. (and it made me hungry!)

am counting the days till we leave for italy (only 29!!)

dina

Ditto to everything Dina said ! (Only 25 in our case !!)

I am glad to share the joy! I am so excited for you both to be on your way soon!

I just tripped upon your report and am enjoying it very much. I'm saving it in my notes for another trip to Italy. Thank you for all of your details and site addresses as they come in so handy. I try to look at places others have mentioned when I'm planning and I have never been disappointed with the recommendations given here. Thank you for taking the time to share your adventure.
Kim

Thanks eks ! Already planning the next trip after that, thanks to you ! Any idea yet where you will go next ?

Thank you to both of you!

Caroline, I gushed about the trip so much that two older friends of mine want to take a trip to Italy with me in September and we (I) are busily planning one to the Ligurian coast. Have you been there? As usual, I am up to my obsessive questioning on another thread with "Liguria" in the title..

Here is one more note: I thought that we had been overcharged when the taxi driver requested 25 Euro for the trip from our Naples hotel to the airport. But I just read in the Fodor's Naples/Amalfi Coast guidebook that that price falls into the expected range (20-25 Euro) The meter read only 18 Euro but there is a charge per bag, an extra charge for Sundays, and a supplement for airport drives.

Loved the report, I hope the next one turns out just as well...I am sure it will, your attitude will lead the way.

Hi eks. Lucky you. getting to gp twice this year ! No, I haven't been to the Ligurian region - so will look forward to your trip report of that ! Best regards, Caroline.

Eks -

Thanks again for all of the great detailed info on this report and others. We leave tomorrow for Italy and are taking many of your recommendations posted here. The way you describe food assures me that you mean business when it comes to a delightful meal.

Jami

To Ekscrunchy-I don't believe one word of your posting. I believe you stole a scipt from an old Erroll Flynn movie.

I mean "script", not "scipt"

But I am too dense to know what you mean..which film??
I can assure you that EF was nowhere within my sights although I did spot a number of Marcello M. types!!

I think it is the fabrics and tailoring of the clothing and the swagger..and they ALWAYS have good haircuts!

You know, the one in which he tours Europe with Linda Darnell, and visits all the exotic places we always dream about. Come on, you must have seen it!

Thanks for such a great report. I am going to Italy in October and will spend about 10 days in the Amalfi Coast area. It will be a return trip for me to this area,last visit in 2000. Looking forward to new adventures and places to see and eat. Thanks again. Tina

Thanks for the detailed report eks! Glad you had such a good trip. I just got back from my five weeks in Italy, and I was thinking on the plane that next time I go to Western Europe (if the dollar ever recovers, that is) I should really go back to France. But then I thought about spending more time on Capri, and that I didn't make it to Ischia, and now that I've read your report I know that I need to spend more time on the Amalfi Coast. I'll be keeping your suggested places in mind, thanks.

Tina and Thursday (welcome back!) I am glad to whet your appetties!! I certainly want to go back someday soon...I think Cetara would be a great base for a few days before perhaps moving on to Amalfi and then one of the islands....

Waldo..so what is the name of this film or are you putting me on?? Someone that I know claims to be EF's son!

I am so pleased to hear a positive review of Naples. I have been traveling there for almost 40 years to visit my in-laws who live on the Vomero. I agree it takes a certain mind-set to enjoy the city but if you can get into that mind-set it can be so rewarding.

Last year was the first time we had seen an abundance of paccheri on the menu and I brought some home with me. The label says the name has two origins. One is from the Greek "pan keir" which I am told means made by hand and the label indicates that of course paccheri must be made by hand because of its size and shape. The second origin of the name is due to the sound, "pac", the cooked pasta makes as it hits the bowl, a slapping sound. I don't know the truth but both stories are fun.

I will take this opportunity to add the name and address of a new favorite trattoria in Naples open only for lunch and very reasonable, about $20 for lunch for two. It was recommended in August 2007 by Mark Bittman in the Wednesday NYTimes Food section. Its called La Tavernetta and is located in Naples, near the harbor at 13/15 via Loggia di Genova, telephone 011-39-081-204435). The eggplant and pasta dish was fantastic. Everything is so inexpensive you can try lots of things.

Hi again Ekscrunchy, I enjoyed your Naples part of your trip report as much I as enjoyed the Amalfi part.

As some other people have stated, I'm glad to hear positive reviews about Naples. I was going to visit it in 2006 along with Capri but, after having read a few discouraging reviews, I ended up visiting only Capri.

I decided to visit it this year after having read trip reports like this one, but today my mother met a guy from Campobasso, Molise, and practically bombed her with warnings and told her to talked me out of going because, according to him, Naples is one of the most dangerous, unpleasent and unattractive cities in Italy.

Now my mother is all worried and concerned about my safety.

I'm staying for 5 nights at a B&B called Bellini 67 located on Piazza Bellini (I'm dedicating two days to explore the city and two days to daytrip to Pompeii and Caserta). Ekscrunchy, what was your general impression of Piazza Bellini besides the overflowing trash bin? Do you guys have any advice concerning this area?

My bookguide says: "... in the city center simply be aware, not wary".

ekscrunchy- just a joke. Your descriptions were so vivid,they are worthy of an adventure movie. Erroll Flynn screwed so many women in his brief (but probably happy) time on earth, that your friend has a good chance of being one of Erroll's offspring.

bookmarking

Whoa... I sure know how to kill a thread, don't I?

I just want to make note of two wonderful books about food in Campania:

Carla Capalbo's "Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania," kindly lent to me by KYbourbon and sadly out-of-print is an excellent resource for anyone planning a trip to the region.

Arthur Schwartz's "Naples at Table," contains recipes from the various areas of Campania, but also offers valuable background information on the foods of the region as well as historical notes. Schwartz tells us, for example, that mozzarella is made only with buffalo milk; if the cheese is made from cow's milk it is referred to as Fior di Latte. Provola refers to aged mozzarella but is often made with cow's milk since buffalo milk is more expensive. He also tells us how buffalo reportedly arrived in Campania with the Lombards in the 7th or 8th Century when they occupied the region and that they are a cross between Asian and American strains of the animal.

I highly recommend both of these books!

http://www.thefoodmaven.com/naples/index.html

Great report, have taken lots of notes for our forthcoming trip. Now however I am wishing that we booked accommodation in Amalfi, not Postiano in July! Next time!

I was interested in your stop at Pompeii on the way back to Naples, we are considering doing the same on our way from the Naples train station to Positano. It will be early afternoon so I just hope that it is not too hot, although perhaps if that is the case it won't be so busy! Will have to carry lots of water.........perhaps an umbrella for shade too.

Was rather shocked with the quotes from a couple of limo companies - 160 euros to drive the 4 of us from Naples to Positano, and that doesn't include the stop at Pompeii! I was expecting closer to 100. High season I guess??

"It will be early afternoon so I just hope that it is not too hot" - er, that is the hottest time of day. Could you perhaps do it on your way back and get there early ?

gmh66:

160 euro from Naples to Positano is crazy! I paid that amount from Amafli to Naples with a stop in Pompeii. Which companies have you contacted?

I suggest that you make further inquiries online and through your hotel in Naples. And yes, it will probably be hot and crowded in mid-day...I would try to get there at opening time to avoid both the heat and the crowds. Or perhaps arriving late in the day would help you avoid the bulk of the crowd, but I am not certain of that. The vast majority of tourists at the site appeared to be on organized tours, so try to work around that timing..

Unfortunately the timing of our trip back to Naples doesn't allow us to stop at Pompeii - we have to get back to Rome to catch a flight home. Caroline, you are right, the early afternoon will be the hottest, but it fits in with our schedule (and we are used to scorching summers here in Australia so I was hoping that we would cope!).
Esk, that is the price I was quoted from 3 sources - by my hotel in Positano and 2 other limo companies that I contacted directly. Perhaps it is because there are 4 of us with 4 cases and we need a bigger car.
Perhaps will just do the straight transfer then do another morning in Pompeii with a cheaper driver that we can arrange there. Thanks

GMH: If you want to scout for a cheaper price, why not contact the driver I used for my trip to Paestum; his name and contact info are in the report above. He has a van that would fit 4 with luggage, easily.

Will do

Here are the driver's details; we liked him very much.


dionisiotoffoletto@tim.it

Telephone (he lives on the Amalfi Coast, in Minori)

339-391-7300

Hi Eskrunchy,

I ended up booking with Renato Cuomo from your report. He is charging a much more reasonable 150 Euro for the transfer from Naples to Positano and a 2 1/2 hour stop off at Pompei. Thanks v much.

Hi EK,
Your report brought back so many happy memories from when I lived in Naples. We would drive down to Amalfi and have lunch at A Cucina e Maria right by the Duomo in Amalfi where Fausto manned the tables and his wife the kitchen.

Remembering the lemons I bought on the road from Sorrento, I smuggled them back and made the best Limoncello in NYC.

Castellanese,
Naple has a very undeserved reputation and a bum rap in my opinion. It is a wonderful city,to be in. So much to see explore and experience.

Before you go to Pompeii make sure that you visit the Archeological museum, after that visit you will look at Pompeii quite differently I think.

The easiest way to get there is to take the commuter train and get off at the station marked Pompeii Scavi.

If you are going to Caserta make sure that you get the express bus.

Capri makes for a nice visit,especially if you get to swim in the Blue Grotto, which opens up around 5 when the tour boats leave.

However Procida is much less visited and worth considering. This is the island where Il Postino was filmed.

There are day boats going to the islands.

Arthur Schwartz gives cooking classes in Seliano, Campania you can look up his schedule at http://www.thefoodmaven.com.

To all of you going to Naples and costiera amalfi
enjoy your trip you are in for a treat.

Nywoman, did you go to Ponza ? We are leaving on Saturday for this year's hol which includes our 3rd stay in Ischia. We've visited Procida before, from Ischia, but was wondering about Ponza this time as I noticed it on a timetable of hydrofoils from Ischia. Mind you if it's like last year, we won't get any further than the beach in Sant'Angelo ! Thanks.

GMH: I am glad you got the Pompeii trip settled. I think you got a good price, considering that the transfer from the airport to Amalfi cost us 100 Euro.

NYwoman: I am glad you enjoyed the report. I used to like listening to Arthur on the radio and even toyed with the idea (for about a minute) of taking that class at Seliano. Honestly, is there another region of the world that better encapsulates, for the tourist, the idea of "dolce far niente?" Campania really has it all, from a tourist standpoint.

ekscrunchy - I found another copy of The Food and Wine Lover's Guide to Campania at HalfPrice Books in Cincinnati, so keep the one you have.

Kybourbon: Mille grazie! That is so kind of you and I appreciate it very much. I promise to put it to good use in the future, when I hope to return to Campania. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

You're welcome. Do you have a Sicily trip report?

KyB: I don't have a report from Sicily. My last trip to the island was about 2005 which would be just around the time I discovered Fodors! But I will be more than happy to offer any help or advice. We spent one week, beginning in Palermo and overnighting there, and in Agrigento, Siracusa and Taormina before flying home from Catania. We rented a car and the driving was surprisingly easy.

Palermo: Hotel Joli
Agrigento: Colleverde Park Hotel
Siracusa: Hotel Domus Mariae (favorite of the trip)
Taormina: Villa Belvedere (many hotels have 3-night minimums in Taormina)

I will also give you some eating ideas once you have your places lined up..

Many thanks, again, for the book.

I meant to say we spent 2 nights in Palermo, 1 in Agrigento, and 2 each in Siracusa and Taormina. Just enough time to get a quick glimpse of some of the highlights..

topping for Italy Traveler

ttt

thanks for topping!

I've been offline a bit and somehow missed it!!

was wondering how the trip went!

see...told ya you would eat well in Cetara feel like my little secret is out now!

Can you tell me about how much you tip your driver? I have a drive from airport to hotel in Naples. then Naples to Sorrento. We did not pay for this so I have not idea what this would actually cost.(We won a trip -yeah and the driver is included) So I want to at lest tip the driver. is that appropriate?

So glad I happened upon your report, ekscrunchy - it's excellent and full of delicious info. Hope to be using a lot of it before too long. Thanks.

ekscrunchy - grazie mille for your incredible, edible trip report. I am now thouroughly confused as to where we should stay on our trip next Sept/Oct. I have been thinking Positano and investigating places, etc. My son (18-and sheesh why did he get to go before me!)was just there and liked La Tavolozza. But we are two couples (50ish), good shape, love people, food, and wine and you have tempted my soul. Is Positano all steps to get anywhere? Isn't Amalfi a hillside town too? We want an experience that will give us the local fishing village, wonderful people, great food, relaxation, and also venturing out to Pompeii and Ravello to see ruins, gardens and whatever else may strike our fancy. HELP!

Missed this one, eks. Have no plans for Amalfi (went once briefly and wasn't enthralled) but your charming report is giving me second thoughts.

Thanks for an enjoyable read.

Glad that you all enjoyed this report. I have away from a computer for a week or so..

Gale: Positano is virtually "all steps." Although there are steps in Amalfi, these lead away from the main part of the town and into the hills. Much of the center of town is located on a gentle slope and it is not necessary to navigate steps in this central area, containing most of the shops and restaurants. There are also many eating places on the seafront; most of these are located down a short flight of steps leading from the main road.

I found Amalfi much more appealing than Positano, as it seemed to me to be more of a real town, as opposed to a town that virtually exists to serve the tourist industry.

Feel free to ask any and all questions!

wonderful report, ekscrunchy!

I have 5-6 days planned for Italy in late October (actually 10/28-11/4) and I've been debating about Venice/Bologna and the Amalfi Coast.

We will be in Rome from 11/4-11/8, then Paris until 11/18.

We've not been to the AC area, but do you think it will be dreary at that time of year? Restaurants open? I've seen mixed answers on this.

Thanks!

Wish I'd previewed before hitting the button.

To clarify, I'm debating BETWEEN Venice/Bologna and the AC, not trying to do both.

Thanks!

ekscrunchy - Thank you so much for replying. Amalfi sounds so much more quaint than Positano does. Do you happen to know if Hotel Fiori Diana had any two bedroom suites?

Gale I am not sure about the existence of 2-bedroom suites at the hotel. They do list a junior suite on their price list, though. The superior room that we rented was quite large, and so was the bathroom, if that helps. You might ask for two adjacent rooms..

I am certain that if you write to Agnese, the lovely owner, she will respond quickly. She speaks excellent English, too.

Here is their website (so you do not have to scroll up to find it here):

http://www.hotelfloridiana.it/english/hotel.html

eks - I just received Carla's Food and Wine Lover's Companion to Tuscany (published 1998 and updated 2002) and it's 400 pages. I haven't started reading it yet, but I don't think it will be as good as the Campania book. It doesn't have any pictures, but is divided into regions and towns like the Campania book. She does go into details such as explaining the three different types of yeast used for Tuscan bread and why they need a low acid starter. $8.98 from Powell Books (I ordered through Amazon).

MelJ, at that time of year I'd gp for Venice/Bologna. There may well be good weather on the Amalfi Coast but there may not - if it's dull & rainy that would defeat the point of going there, IMO.

I agree with Caroline. There will certainly be restaurants open in and around Amalfi in late October, but I agree that Venice/Bologna might be the safer choice, weather-wise.

Ky: Thanks for the tip on the book and thank you, again, for the Capalbo Naples book!

Thanks for confirming what I thought I should probably do--go to Venice and Bologna and save the AC for a lovelier time of year.

Thanks very much!

UPDATE: For those with a love of the food of Italy, and all things Italian, a wonderful book (I just finished reading) is "Eating Up Italy," which recounts the author's ramble north from Calabria, via Naples, Molise, Abruzzo, and Romagna, to Piemonte on a Vespa. The focus, of course, is food. Good sense of humor, great insights into the role that food plays in Italian life. Highly recommended!

Hi eks. This is the Matthew Fort book, isn't it ? He's well known here as the Guardian newpaper's food editor and I have the book waiting on my bedside pile ! He also has another similar book just about Sicily, "Sweet Honey, Bitter Lemons".

Caroline: Yes!! I did not have the book with me when I wrote that yesterday. I truly enjoyed the book..he travels through areas that I know little about but have now put on my list..Ascoli Piceno is just one town of many that caught my interest....

I will look for his Sicily book and also see if I can read him at the Guardian site...thanks for that tip!

Ooh, I'll move it to the top of the pile then ! Thanks for the recommendation. Just finishing Alexander McCall Smith's latest '44 Scotland Street' book to appear in p/b.

eks-
thank you so much for posting this trip report! I just got thru reading it and we leave in a little less than 2 weeks for Rome and the Amalfi Coast. We are staying 7 nights in Positano and 2 in Capri. Hoping to see Pompeii and Naples as well. you information is truly invaluable and I can't wait to eat at some of the places you described!

ek, thank you VERY much.

Glad that this is helpful.


Caroline: That book is a "must read!"
Let me know what you think! Even includes recipes...it made me take out a map and look into Le Marche and Abruzzo-Molise.

Bookmarking

Hi eks. I've now finished the book - it is interesting, isn't it ? As well as covering areas I don't know it pointed up specialities I missed in places I have been, so food for lots of new planning !

It also made me get a fit of the giggles during a more boring part of the whirling dervishes' performance here the other week, when I remembered that "Not for them the pasta marathon"

Must get the Sicily one now.

Caroline: I did not know he wrote a book about Sicily..will look it up asap and try to get it in my library!!!

Hi eks. It's called "Sweet Honey, Bitter Lemons".

Caroline: I returned the Fort book to the library and am now wracking (?) my brain trying to remember the name of an eating place he adored in either Abruzzo or Le Marche..do you happen to have the book at home? (I tried to find the name by googling but had no luck..)

Can I find his Italy eating columns on a website?

Hi - even better, DH is now reading it & brought it here to work today ! Let's see... Was it La Bandiera ? That's the one urgently recommended by his SIL in Rome, with "something of the triple-Michelin-starred provincial French restaurant about it". Or the agriturismo Villa Cicchi ?

Caroline, thanks! I think it was Villa Cicchi. But a quick search of reviews on Trip Advisor for VC and others in Pescara (location of La Bandiera) turns up some amazingly wonderful finds! In place after place, the reviews are terrific! Does that mean I am going to have to follow in his Vespa tracks and head for Abruzzo and Le Marche?

I did find a few columns by Fort on the Guardian site, but none about those particular areas..

Have you been to that region of Italy? Prices look appeallingly low, even at places like La Bandiera.

Hi. I think the only place I've been in either region is Urbino, as part of the Piero della Francesca trail. And maybe we would have passed through some bits this year en route Naples-Subiaco-Assisi-Bologna ? I really don't know the east of Italy at all except Venice.

I would have suggested the Guardian website - sorry, don't know anywhere else you might find MF. He has been on TV here the last couple of years as part of 'Great British Menu', a chefs' competition thing - he was one of the judges. Seems a very amiable cove.

I agree, the idea of retracing his journey seems appealing, although scary ! I wondered just how good his Italian is - he said not very, but seemed to be able to chat to anyone about anything, don't you think ?

In an interview with Simon Barrett I get the impression that MF's Italian is quite good.
http://blogcritics.org/archives/2007/04/24/0152463.php

Here are two recent news items about Naples, both from the New York Times:


Related to the book I mentioned, above:

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/15/world/europe/15briefs-MAFIATHREATI_BRF.html?partner=rssnyt&emc=rss


Naples: No trash but no tourists, either:

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/14/arts/design/14abro.html?_r=1&scp=2&sq=naples%20italy&st=cse&oref=slogin

Thanks eks !

Re the first link - I'm afraid I smiled the other day when I read a report about another guy - an informer I think - who is living under an assumed identity with 24 armed guards. Wouldn't you think that would make him a bit conspicuous ?

Re the secomd link - it's a shame when they put on stuff that nobody goes to; but I must admit that one of the reasons I liked Naples so much was that there weren't a lot of other tourists & nowhere was too busy

We thought MADRE was wonderful.

Having spent a couple of days in Naples this week, I can say that I saw no shortage of tourists. There were several large cruise ships in, so this may have accounted for the numbers.

Topping

The latest addition to Naples' San Gregorio Armeno nativity offerings:



http://www.katieparla.com/category/naples/

topping for poster bound for Amalfi Coast..

topping for Maryanne, with info on private driver (look for day trip to Paestum) about a quarter of the way through the report, posted on 7 May.

what a wonderful report. I am now longing for Neapolitan pizza and the views of the Amalfi coast.

I hope I'll get there sooner rather than later!

Here is the information on the cheese maker in Agerola discussed on the Rome Trip Report thread; tourists can visit and watch the cheese making process:


http://www.aziendanaclerio.it/en/index.asp

Here is a review about a new book about Pompeii which sounds fascinating. Among other things I learned from the review was that the site was heavily bombed during World War II:


http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/15/books/review/Coates-t.html

bookmarking

Just read this post today and you mentioned my name to read May 5 about the Amalfi Coast. I remember asking about a day trip off the cruise ship along the coast. I contacted a driver in Sorrento and now realize as the ship docks in Naples it sould be better logistically to get a driver near Naples. Do you or anyone know of a driver there? I only want to do about a 5 hour tour as we leave on an early flight back to the states the next morning. I have stayed near Sorrento, been to Capri and Pompei. I want to see the beautiful coast again and go to Amalfi and Ravello. Your post made me think Positiano might be what I want to skip.
Love reading your travel info and stories. You are indeed a traveler!!

Thank you, Maryanne. It really was a fabulous trip.

I think that any driver that works the Sorrento/Amalfi area would do a tour from Naples ship dock.

Here is an e-mail of one driver mentioned on Trip Advisor. (I have not used him, though) If you do a search there, you will find many other names. And you can also check the usual names that are mentioned frequently here.

Salvatore Lucibello driveamalfi@hotmail.com or info@driveamalfi.com




Also see:

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/planning/carservice.asp

Eks-- Thanks to your recommendation, I have a booking w Mr Cuomo who will pick up up in Naples, drive to Pompeii and wait for three hours and then on onto our hotel in Amalfi (Marina Riviera) for an incredibly reasonable rate.

NOW-- if you could just plan our four dinners!A Paranza, Marina Grande and Al Convento all sound amazing. I keep reading about ?Eolo? in Amalfi-- are you familiar with that at all? If there were any others that you "missed" or "would have tried" would love to hear. Am so overloaded trying to plan the other three cities that I may explode!

BTW- the people at Marina Riviera are extraordinary. Based on a slight miscommuication about room size, the upgraded us to a full suite (with an extra bedroom), terrace, jacuzzi etc for the price of the quoted jr. suite, and gave us a 10 percent discount for the fourth night when we realzed we could stay there instead of Sorrento in order to make our flight in Naples.
Would LOVE to think it as my fledging attempts at writing in Italian, but if anything, that would have been a detriment

LB: This is great news! I do think that there is an abundance of lovely lodgings in this area and the grace that they have extended to you even before your arrival is something to keep in mind for future travels. I will be so eager to hear about your trip!

I read about Eolo before we took our trip last year. But we simply did not have time to try even half of the places I would have liked to visit. It did not make my final cut because I would rather stick to restaurants serving the regional classics on the first go round. So as a general rule (not always adhered to though) I do not seek out anything labeled "fusion" in Italy. I would just rather familiarize myself with the local ingredients in simple preparations. That is the reason that I did not try La Caravelle or Eolo, although I would guess that both places have terrific food. Both are probably a bit "fancier" than the ones I visited. I tend to be a little suspect of the whigte tablecloth and crystal scene in a resort area like the Amalfi Coast. But since I've never tried one of those places, I have no way of knowing if I am totally off base and if I have missed fabulous meals. But come to think of it, the food is so great on the AC that it would be rather difficult to have a truly bad meal, unless one stuck to the most obviously "touristy" places and even then...

So your choice of restaurant depends on personal taste, and if you want a "romantic" venue--with a view, etc.

While I liked A Paranza well enough to eat there twice, there is no view. Same holds true for the 2 places we tried in Cetara. I would certainly recommend at least one dinner in Cetara, as long as you do not mind the bus trip/drive to get there and as long as you are fish/seafood eaters. It is very much off the foreign tourist track, or at least it seemed so when we were there, so the experience is different than that in the places we tried in the more popular towns...

One place that I think I would try next time is Da Gemma in Amalfi, based on the very thorough report written by Blej. See link:

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/10-days-in-amalfi-and-puglia.cfm



Also, I wanted very much to try the SlowFood restaurant in Pogerola, in the hills above Amalfi..Trattoria Da Rispoli, which dates from 1947 and reportedly has a great view as well as great food. (closed Thursday) That might be my first choice among the places we have not yet visited.


And I would NOT dine again at Il Teatro, unless I wanted pizza. (Although another poster seemed to be very happy with the meal here..)

Please feel free to ask/discuss anything at all--I love doing so because I can share my enthusiasm for the area and relive my own trip!

You opened the floodgates with your kind offer and yes-- there will be questions! Actually I was pretty blown away by how accomodating Marina Riviera was and I just cant wait to see the hotel and thank them in person-- also I cant thank all of you guys enough for the encouragement to make the switch- next mini decision -Pisa- but I digress.
Yes, I've heard tons about da Gemma and it sounds great. I totally agree about the white tablecloth/fusion thing since we're traveling with two teenagers one of whom would be happy with a huge basket of bread and a coke-
Husband loves fish but not shellfish- I'm the complete opposite-- sure we'll all be happy. Just one technical question-- Is it feabible to go to say, Ravello or Positano or Cetara etc "just" for dinner- e.g.- can we just take a cab there and back or is it just not that easy??
Re- the view- Im just so happy to have made the switch to an all view all the time locale, its just not that important for dinner- altho a friend just advised that a cocktail on the terrace at Santa Caterina is a must do.
Thnaks!

LB:

I am looking forward to more opportunity to discuss your trip!

Just briefly now: We took the bus to Cetara from/to Amalfi once. For the second Cetara meal (a lunch) , we were dropped off by the driver we hired to take us to Paestum, and took the bus back. The bus ride is beautiful but even in early May, the buses were very crowded and my partner had to stand part of the way. I think many of the passengers were workers traveling at the end of the workday from their jobs in Amalfi and points west, to the more workaday towns and Salerno. The bus ran about once an hour in the evenings, as I recall. Going there was ok, but I found it a bit of a pain to time the dinner in order to catch the return bus. We either had to rush dinner a bit in order to catch the bus around 9pm from Cetara, or take our time and have to wait until the bus an hour later.

The bus may run more frequently in high season.

So ideally, one would either drive or take a taxi. But the taxi costs will not be inexpensive.
If you are ok with this, it is certainly the most comfortable way to reach Cetara. Or you could go at lunch; there may be more frequent service during the day. Perhaps combine a stop there with a daytrip to Paestum, like we did. Or even to Vietri, for the ceramics.

Be sure to reserve in advance; we phoned a couple of hours ahead and got the last free table the day of our lunch at the San Pietro.

Having said all that, I think a meal in Cetara is virtually a must for someone interested in regional cuisine.

I certainly agree about the hotel view negating a need to seek out the view from a restaurant on most nights.

When is your trip?

We leave New York on August 14th- that was the only two week period that made sense from a practical standpoint (e.g. summer internships, school schedules etc.) We will be in Italy for 15 nights, spending the last four in Amalfi. I'm dreading the heat, but given the experience of New York summers, if the temperature stays below 100 hopefully while not ideal certainly, I think it will be OK. A/C was a huge priority in hotel selection.
Thanks so much for all the advice- I'm thinking taxis or cars but I still havent fully formulated this part of the trip-
I started planning back in September -believe it or not and now I'm experiencing the diminishing returns phase since the information I've amassed from this forum is so mind boggling that its sometimes overwhelming but its all good!!
Ek- I think youre a New Yorker- do you live or work anywhere near CG or the Upper East Side?

LB: yes, I live in midtown east.

I know exactly what you mean about the diminishing returns. I also began planning (including lots of food-related research) very early for a September trip to Ischia. Now that there is nothing left to plan, I have almost put aside thoughts of that trip and am well on my way to investigating Puglia--hopefully for NEXT spring!

I think you will be fine with the heat; I can't imagine that it gets much hotter than 90F, and you are near the sea AND have the a/c. I do think the bus to Cetara might be a bit of an ordeal in August, though. You know, you might try asking at your hotel since they are so congenial. My guess is that they might even have an employee or two that drives east after work; maybe you could work something out for the trip there, and then take the bus back when it is not so hot. Or taxi. The restaurant prices there are certainly a good value!

Helping you plan is almost as much fun as planning my own trip!

We've probably seen each other a million times in Grand Central or the Gap (conveniently located in my office building)
SO lucky that you can travel so much- wow- I'm really envious- and I'm sure you have it down to a science
You're the best to be so helpful-- all the Fodorites are and I've made two really close friends over the years who you probably know too--- the difference is, while you start planning early, you probably actually MAKE plans- while I apparently seem to just second guess and re-think! For some reason, my other trips London, Provence, Paris went much more smoothly planning-wise. Italy is just an overwhelming wealth of must dos and must sees and it will be my first time there.

However- I decided I had take some action and have now begun to actually book stuff so I can start planning "around" them and stop hyperventilating e.g. (Secret Itineraries, Clock Tower tour in Venice ) and just got a Scavi confirmation for 3pm in Rome so I booked the morning Vatican tour-(so will need a lunch suggestion <g. Still looking for a private guide for a day or a better COntext option for Rome Antica- they are all in the afternoon and would be at the end of our 5 days.

We are foodies too (but not with anything close to your depth of knowledge except for maybe New York and France <g and I have a long list I've compiled for each city with the help of Fodors people and some othe friends here in NY that are huge Italy lovers and the many recent Times articles- (there is alot of overlap.) When I get it down to a very managable number maybe I can just run them by you?? Youve pretty much sewn up Rome for me- finalizing Venice list and we have two nights in Florence which I havent even really researched yet and now closing in on Amalfi thanks to you.

lbrawer...

Don't mean to jump in on your converstation with EK, but I wanted to give you the name of a restuarant near the Vatican for a possible lunch.

It's Arlu on Borgo Pio (maybe it's Via Borgo Pio...I'm at work right now and don't have my Rome notes)...Anyway it's very close to the Vatican.

I went here for lunch last December and thought it was terrific. I had it on my list for my 2007 Rome trip and wasn't able to make it that time, so made sure I went in 2008 and I wasn't disappointed.

Walking down Borgo Pio with your back towards the Vatican Wall it will be on the left side of the street. It doesn't really stand out, but it is on a corner.

The food was very good, the place was small inside, maybe 12 or 15 tables (there were outside tables too, but it was December and a chilly day so no one was sitting outside!). Some tourists, priests and Italians were dining, so it was a good mix of people.

I believe it was the owner who was handling the dining room by himself, and it looked like his wife was in command of the tiny kitchen.

Oh that's great! Thank you so much!! The patrons you described sound like a good sign for an authentic local meal! Perfetto.

LB: Of course you can run anything by me. Any time! Thank you for the compliments.

Just briefly now, I know of 3 tour guides that might lead you on the Rome tour. The first is Maureen Fant, who is the author of a now-classic guide to restaurants in Rome, Florence and Venice. Here is her website; she also guides for Context. Even if the book is not new, I think it is well worth reading; there is an excellent food glossary inside.


http://www.maureenbfant.com/index.htm


I took a tour with Francesca Caruso; I will give you her e-mail if you would like--it is in my Rome trip report, too.




And Alan Epstein, the author of an interesting book called As The Romans Do, has very good qualifications as far as private guiding and education. I have not met him but it turns out that he is actually a friend of friends of mine--I learned that only a few months ago.

Here is his site:

http://www.astheromansdo.com/private_tours.htm

EK- thank you! Actually I had written francesca based on what I read about her and just received a sad reply that she will be out of town those days. She recommended about 5 others and I told her a little about what I was looking for and asked an opinion (have yet to hear back). Of course would be more comfortable with someone known-- totally know the name Maureen Fant but I can almost guarantee my husband will hijack the tour talking food with her- will check out both sites and thanks as always.

EK- I just emailed Alan- Id say the odds of his being a) available or b) affordable are astronomical but thought I'd give it a try. Maureen's tour info (or from what I could tell) seemed very food oriented. Great for us, but do you think she does the other stuff too?

Ekscrunchy, I wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed reading your trip report! I'm new here and it was the first one I have read. I am planning a trip to Italy next May. We had planned to stay in Positano for four nights. After reading your report we will be staying in Amalfi. We are going to celebrate our twentieth anniversary. We will spend four nights in Rome, four nights in the Orvieto area,four nights in Amalfi and two nights in Naples.We hope to visit some of the places you mentioned.
Thanks
bxl

Thanks, BXL.

LB: Yes, Alan's prices seem very high. But I am curious as to what he presents to you as far as price and itinerary. Do let us know.

Maureen Fant is a classical scholar as well as a food person. She has written some excellent articles in the Times and other publications, so I would absolutely think that she could do something not based on food.

Take a look at the article she wrote on Pompeii for the NY Times..

I will be back soon..

EKs-- Well I'm into major planning mode as we are at about three weeks and counting. Just wanted to run a few Amalfi area restaurants by you as I've spent a few hours on Chowhound. There seems to be unanimity about A Paranza, and the Cumpa Cosima in Ravello. Others that were highly rated and raved about were I Trani in Amalfi and Dal Salvatore in Ravello (for lunch). ALso Bucca di Baccio (?/) in Positano gets raves and not so much raves as likes- same with Da Gemma- sort of mixed. As it will be nearing the end of our trip, not sure we'll still feel like white tablecloths-- so-- for our four nights- with clearly A Paranza on the list, which might your other 3 must-dos be.

Reading your reviews again, Marina Grande and Al Convento sound very appealing. HELP!
AND- if you dont mind my jumping over to Florence for a second-- we have just two dinners there and even though I'm not seeing it too much on the standard sites, I keep reading outstanding things about Leo's in Santa Croce and Trattoria 4 Leoni. We will have just come from from four days in Venice which will most certainly be very fish heavy and am trying to finalize that list oo.

Any thoughts are most welcome

LB:

For Florence, you might take a look at my report from a few years ago--there is a lot of food information. I will top the report for you. I have never dined at either of the two places you mention, however. On another trip I liked the Cibreo trattoria, too.

I urge you to have at least one meal in Cetara, IF you like fish. But it IS a bit of a schlep. I am always willing to rage far and wide for food but if your time is pressed, just leave it for another time.

I do not know Buca di Bacco but I am not sure it would be my type of place based on location alone--it seems as if it is far too popular with tourists in a town that, to me, it a bit too popular with foregin tourists. I could be way off base on this, though.

One place in Positano that might be more my style (but I have not been) is Barilotto di Nonno. There is not much online about this low-key place but you can find a bit with a search.

Is I Trani the place on the main drag of Amalfi, within the town? If so, Agnese at my hotel liked it well enough to recommend it to me.

Remember that in Italy, especially out of the cities and even within most cities, I usually favor low key trattorie rather than more dressy white-tablecloth places. So my style is not for everyone. Honestly, the eating is so good in the Amalfi area that I don't think you can go too far wrong.

I hope I have helped narrow things down a bit, but I fear that you may be still as torn as ever! In any event, I love discussing these things, so ask away.

Not at all-- you are nothing but a huge help. I couldnt find the post with the exact location of I Trani on Chowhound but SO many people seem to love it-- also raves for Al Convento and the others we discussed above so I should be able to craft some great eating in Amalfi.
I have your Rome report- must look for the Florence- have read alot about Cibreo-- from what I've read, I get the feeling it may be a little too adventurous for my kids-- (if what I read was correct). A foodie friend included it in her list to me along with Angiolino, Camillo and Aqua al Due. Havent really researched those yet.
BUT- I just received a blow by email from Armando al Pantheon (5 minutes ago!) telling me they are closed for all of August. That is indeed upsetting as it was my plan for at least night 1 and maybe a second (we're at the del Senato). Have also been looking at La Taverna dei Monti, (clearly not the same as Trattoria Monti, correct?).)Matricianella, Giggetto ,La Campana and one of the recent tratorrias that was written up in the Times- I think Felice a Testaccio (its in another room at the moment). Of course some of the pizzarias (Dar Poeta).So-- A little confused now-- I thought I had that first night nailed (will be a Friday). If you have any thoughts would love to hear them and thanks!

LB: Do not worry about Armando being closed. It is a somewhat "typical" Roman trattoria and the reason it is so popular and often mentioned is that the location is smack in the center of the historic district. I think you should take a look at the SlowFood guide, for starters, and see what else you can come up with; you may have to take a taxi but that is not difficult. I have not been to Felice (yes it is in Testaccio) but have it on my list for next time. I don't know about another place with Monti in the name; why not try Trattoria Monti? Also, have you taken a look at Maureen Fant's restaurant list on her website?

The Cibreo I ate at in Florence was not the restaurant, but the adjacent trattoria, which takes no reservations. But the food is a little different than the norm, so might not be so great for the kids. They do not serve pasta, for example.

I've been to Camillo a couple of times and found it to be good. There is a string of places in that area that draw lots of visitors along with locals. Camillo is one of the better ones, or at least it was back when I last visited. My preference would be to travel a little further south to the area around Piazza Tasso; one place I like a lot is Alla Vecchia Bettola.

Thank you! Will be sure to check out Alla Vecchia Bettola.I would certainly try Trattoria Monti-- again-- the chowhound folks loves both. the Taverna has a very cool menu - I KNOW we will have pleny of great eating and this is just a little bit of OCD on my part. Taxis no problem. I'm a new yorker that takes way way too many of them.

Hi Eks-
I hope you see this as it is a very old thread. I am just about over grieving the end of our family trip (late August). So much to say about it and with each passing day our memories get better and better. I dont have my notes here but I wanted to thank you SO much for all of your help, especially with Amalfi. Not sure if you remember, but we stayed at the Marina Riviera for four nights- this being the end of our Venice-Florence-Rome trip .
We pretty much utilized all of your dining suggestions and our meal at A Paranza was one of our highlights (including the walk to and through Atrani). We also loved Marina Grande, had great pizza in town, and our last meal at Da Gemma.
Probably all around best day was our all day boattrip with L'Uomo et il Mare (aka Salvatore et Gennaro) where we actoually met another Fodor's couple from NYC.
Also used Mr. Cuomo's car service twice and it was wonderful and well priced.
Have so much more to write but not sure if you check these older messages.
Anyway- thanks so much to you and everyone else who was so generous with your time and advice.
Will do the same if I can.

LB: I am So glad that the trip went well! PLEASE let us know more details! I would love to hear, in particular, about Marina Grande. And about the boat trip. I am glad that my report was useful. I will stay tuned for more comments!

Will drag out my hotel/restaurant notes--to say that there were some major eating and visual highlights in all 4 cities is an understatement. Something so special each day that I almost dont know where to begin but I will say that we unfortunately encountered a heat spell of at least and usually over 100 each day which had a major impact on us (me more than anyone else) in a way that I never imagined. The heat was unrelenting- and never cooled off- even at night, so that really dampened the motivation to do huge amounts of walking and those extra neighborhood explorations that I was so looking forward to- even hanging out with the pigeons in St.Mark's Square (my son's favorite activity) was daunting. But I digress-
Given the heat, we were thrilled to have scheduled a day trip (Amalfi Coast trip- one of three I think) with L'Uomo e il Mare. The owner, Peter, is a transplanted Brit who has lived in Italy for years. A fairly experienced chef himself (by hobby), he spent much of the trip sharing his secrets for preparing the perfect fish, scampi etc. We had hoped to check out a particular shop in Positano that he had told us was his favorite for olive oil and other condiments but there simply wasnt time after the trip.

The boat was limited to about 15 people- it left from Positano about 10 or so which meant a 9:20 ferry from Amalfi.
We were introduced to each other, shown the chest full of water, soda and wine and motored off for about 7 hours of bliss. Essentially stopping at tiny little coves, grottos and a few little beaches, dropping anchor at each for swimming in cool yet perfectly delightful water (or not).In total there were about seven or eight swimming stops. Not swimming was simply not an option -even for me who usually draws the line at bathub temperature or higher.
The trip included a 2 hour stop at a tiny seaside restaurant where we were treated with a 4 course meal of bread,salad, fried seafood, delicious pasta and fish and dessert. Plenty of wine. At the end of the meal, we were treated with the usual limoncello accompanied by the "la nonna's" secret concoction of chocolate liquid bliss-think super strong chocolate liquer. Peter was kind enough to convince the owner to sell me a bottle for 20 euros. It was the perfect excuse to buy an appropriate Amalfi-made ceramic bottle to transport it home in, the the owner of the shop cleaned the bottle, decanted my treasure and spent about a half hour wrapping, taping and bubble wrapping it for the plane.
The trip returned to Positano in time for us to take the last ferry back to Amalfi. I think it was somewhere between 75 and 80 euros per person. They may have discounted my boys (teenagers).
The only casualty in an otherwise perfect day was that my son forgot to remove his brand new wallet ( just purchased at La Scuola de Cuoio in Florence where an artisan gold leaf monograms it right there for one euro) from his bathing suit.Happily, the wallet lives on--

LB: A special belated thanks for adding the details of what sounds like a fabulous day on the water..I really need to do this when and if I am fortunate enough to return to the area. And your son will just have to pencil in a return to the Scuola de Cuoio for a new wallet!

Where are you headed next??

topping for wrenwood

ek-- so sorry I just saw this. Yes it was WONDERFUL!!! I wish I was better at posting pictures because son took about 20,000 amazing pictures that may be on snapfish. Will check.
As to where we are headed next-- 6 days (May 26-June 2) to Paris for French Open. Husband is major tennis fan and this has been his dream. We just secured tix for two days (for him only!) thru the official Roland Garros website. Will be staying in an apartment in the Marais. Now the task of looking for delcious (but not over the top) restaurants. Have been to Paris many times but not since 2006. Places I'm reading about are Frenchie, Table 28 (of all things- a Chicago based chef) who owns another place called Spring. Any suggestions welcome!
How are you?

I am curious as to why Burrata cheese is so difficult to find in Italy. On my last trip I never saw it once on the menu. My friend owns some restaruants in LA, and when I first tried some at his place, I was hooked. Amazing, I'm hopeful I'll run into some on my upcomming trip!

Chazzarelli: But where were you in Italy? I think that burrata does not keep like many other cheeses and therefore, does not do so well when shipped. So it should be easier to find closer to its place of production, ie, regions of Puglia and near Paestum.

I was in Rome, Naples, Venice, Bologna, Parma and Siena.

The only place I've ever had it was in LA. I just figured I'd run accross it somewhere in Italy.

On my upcomming trip, I'll be in some of the same places I've been before, although I'm working on extending my trip and figuring out a few more places.

topping for DebbieAllen, for info on Sfogliatelle Mary and Sorbillo pizzeria

topping for cmndesign

Resurrecting this thread to add the llnk to the mozzarella (and other cheese) maker that we visited, near Paestum. They did not have a website at the time of my 2008 visit:




http://www.masserialupatabarlotti.it/

glad you updated. I missed this the first time 'round, and it confirms something i wrote in a FF reply yesterday: i dint think nine days in the area would lead to boredom!

Since I mentioned sfogliatelle in the title of this report, I will post these photos that I just found:




http://foodloversodyssey.typepad.com/my_weblog/2011/04/journey-through-the-pastries-of-naples-italy.html

Adding to this thread, the NYTimes just gave a good review to a new (5.2012) book about Naples, NAPLES DECLARED.


http://www.amazon.com/Naples-Declared-Walk-Around-Bay/dp/0399159177

Review is included in this wrap-up of new travel books for summer reading:

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/03/books/review/alaskan-travels-naples-declared-and-more.html?pagewanted=all

This thread has been invaluable for me in getting glimpses of what to expect when I am in the area for 5 weeks this fall. The restaurants, the stunning scenery are just a glimmer of hope at the moment but your recommendations are invaluable. I am staying in B & B's and agritoursimos along the way in Piano di Sorrento, Nocelle, Atrani, Capri, and Paestum and then apartments in Tropea and Calitri. I sure wish I could get my hands on a copy of Capalbo's book The Food and Wines of Naples and Campania!!!

It is out of print. I had planned a week at a cooking school in Sicily but decided that that area deserved a month on its own someday so split a little more than a week on the Amalfi Coast, Capri and Paestum. I will be in this area in November. Does anyone know if I can still get to Capri from the Amalfi Coast at this time of year? Or do I have to travel back to Sorrento?

It's still available, though rather pricey these days - on both sides of the Atlantic:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Food-Lovers-Companion-Naples-Campania/dp/1873429711

http://www.amazon.com/Food-Wine-Guide-Naples-Campania/dp/1873429711

Feltrinelli don't appear to have it listed here, but you might like this - which is at least a little more affordable:

http://www.amazon.com/Italian-Wine-Guide-Definitive-Sourcing/dp/8836530850/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1340720909&sr=1-4&keywords=italian+wine+guide

We've got the previous version, and refer to both before travelling anywhere new locally!

Even cheaper still, there's a very nice little intoduction to some of our regional specialities that can be downloaded for free!

http://www.bb-napoli.com/english/specialities-guide.pdf

...........................

Those direct ferries are likely to have ended by then - running until very soon after the All Souls holiday at the latest, so you'll probably have to travel via Sorrento... although nice weather and plenty of punters may see them carry on for a while longer, especially after the very slow start there's been to the season this year!

Peter

The price for that books can fluctuate so keep looking, and do check other online sources such as Abe Books. Fred Plotkin's "bible" is another essential companion for a food-focused trip, although he does not have the concentration of information about Campania of the Capalbo book.

Last fall I took a 2-week-plus drive from Lamezia Terme in Calabria, north to Amantea and Maratea and along the Cilento Coast, continuing on to Paestum and to several stops on the Amalfi Coast, both at sea level and in the hills. I will be happy to comment if you are contemplating a trip like this.

Ekocrunch, I would be taking a similar trip but in the opposite direction from Sorrento, Amalfi and then on to Paestum. I would enjoy hearing all about your journey.

Thanks for the information Peter! I have dowkoaded the free book and will keep searching for Capalbo's.

Will you be stopping at Paestum, or continuing further south in the Cilento and beyond?
We spent 3 nights at Sta. Maria Castellabate, a charming town on the beach in the northern Cilento. We used Castellabate as a base to travel to the nearby temples of Paestum as well as to the Tenuta Vannulo, one of several in the area where buffalo are raised for cheese making. (This area is one of two sources for the legendary mozzarella di bufala that you will find throughout Campania, with the other being the area near Caserta) We took the English-language tour of the Vannulo farm, which included samples of the fresh cheese. Here is a brief report about my experience there; note that this was on a visit several years later than the one described in this thread:


TENUTA VANNULO..CAPACCIO SCALO (near Paestum, south of Salerno)

Whenever the discussion turns to mozzarella from the Paestum area, the name Vannulo comes up, as this is the most well-known of the “mozzarella farms” lining the state highway south of Battipaglia. (The word mozzarella, when spoken in the Cilento, refers to buffalo mozzarella only. Mozzarella made from cow’s milk is “fior di latte.” In the Amalfi area, the term “mozzarella” means the cow milk cheese, produced in Agerola; the product from Cilento, or from Caserta, is referred to there as “mozzarella di bufala.”)

Unlike most farms, Vannulo is organic and unlike most farms, they offer tours in several languages. We phoned ahead to book the 10am English tour, making the short drive from Castallabate on a Friday morning.

For a fee of 4 euro per person, about 20 of us received a tour of the vast buffalo pens, housing several hundred female animals and only a few males, with separate sections for eating, relaxing (on rubber mattresses) , and milking. Feeling itchy? Waddle over to the large, vertical car-wash-like rotating brush for a rubdown. Much was made of the special Swedish milking machine. A few minutes were spent in front of a large picture window, watching the stretching of the curds into the familiar mozzarella balls and the not-so-familiar treccia braids. An equal number of minutes were spent inside the “leather boutique,” offering handbags and small accessories made from (male) buffalo skin. (The male buffalo meet a fate far less pleasant than that of the females) A small museum details the history of the farm and displays old implements and interesting photos, including one of the animals grazing amidst the temples at nearby Paestum. Generous samples were handed out at the end of the tour, which lasted about 45 minutes. The information imparted at the tour was pretty basic; one could probably wander around alone and view the animal barns and the through-the-window cheese making.

The most interesting part of the excursion, for me, was the shop selling the buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, provola, and other heavenly incarnations of the milk. Since shipping requires refrigeration, and since this mozzarella should never be refrigerated, it is available only here and the waiting throngs indicated that this is, indeed, a much-prized local product. The cheese often sells out before noon. The white-swathed saleswomen obligingly packed up my meager purchases, with their "acqua bianca" liquid, in a plastic container which was set inside a Styrofoam container. Every other person who exited the shop seemed to be carrying at least 4 of these containers, along with assorted shopping bags. It was quite a sight.

There is a “yogurteria” next door that also saw lots of activity on that Friday morning. Although the menu offers a long list of cakes, and gelati, and yogurt made from buffalo milk, the signature order here appeared to be a heft slice of brioche slathered with fruit yogurt. I tried an apricot yogurt and it was, indeed, pretty terrific.

As for the mozzarella? I lack the words but will never forget.

The farm is but a few minutes drive from the Paestum site.

http://www.vannulo.it/visita.html




Note the disrespect accorded to fior di latte (the cow's milk version of mozzarella, made in Agerola on the Amalfi Coast, as well as in many other locations) on this officlal site:

http://www.mozzarelladibufala.org/all...








http://www.paestum.de/en/paestum.htm

Once I dropped the week in Sicily from my trip I have been rather indecisive about where to spend the extra time. The time of year makes it more difficult to stay and eat where I would like to. I have been talking to Cecilia the owner of the Seliano buffalo mozzarella farm near Paestum. She is willing to stay open and and also provide me with a cooking class. When travelling solo it is also difficult this time of year to join other groups since not many are still travelling in November. It seems that at some point I may very well need to rent a car, although I have been trying to avoid it.

Val, sorry I did not respond sooner.

This B&B in Agropoli (Cilento) gets raves on review sites. It appears that the owners are willing to ferry guests around a bit, and they also offer cooking classes. Agropoli is a large town that I think would make an interesting base for a few days. (We stayed nearby in Castellabate, but I expect Agropoli would be much livelier in the off season, and it is closer (only 9km distant) from Paestum, for the temples and the buffalo farms)

http://www.baiaditrentova.com/