SCIALATIELLA TO SFOGLIATELLE; PACCHERI TO PROVOLA: 7 Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples
May 6th, 2008, 11:16 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SCIALATIELLA TO SFOGLIATELLE; PACCHERI TO PROVOLA: 7 Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples
SCIALATIELLA TO SFOGLIATELE; PACCHERI TO PROVOLA..and plenty of sfusati and sfizzi fritti:
Seven Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples
We just arrived back in the US from a glorious week in Amalfi and Naples and while my memory is fresh, I will attempt to share the highlights, with plenty of details about food. I want to thank SeaUrchin, Weadles, Steve James, Dayle, Caroline Edinburgh, Traveler1959, Waldo, Vicenzo, and everyone else everyone who was so patient and forthcoming with help during the planning phase.
We left JFK on the last Saturday in April, flying Iberia to Naples with a connection in Madrid. The Madrid airport is truly spectacular and, more important, it is an excellent point for connections. (For more about the airport, see my report from 2006:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34810840
This is the only airport that I can remember that is actually worth visiting even if you do not plan to fly! The efficiency here would be even more important to us on the way home, when we had only 70 minutes in which to connect to our JFK-bound flight; we made the connection with a half hour to spare! Certainly worth keeping in mind for future trips. (Iberia had the best prices and the best connections from JFK-Naples)
We arrived in Naples at midday on a Sunday and were met at the airport by Renato Cuomo, who we had hired to drive us to Amalfi. Mr. Cuomo was unable to make the drive, but introduced us to his fellow driver, Raffaelo. The price for the transfer was 100 Euro.
The ride of about an hour, took us past through some of the less attractive communi Vesuviani, where about a million people live within the danger zone of a future eruption, many in blocky concrete post-war housing blocks. During the ride, I asked the driver about a fall off in tourism from the US due to the poor exchange rate and he confirmed that this was true and that his bookings had fallen off tremendously. This was echoed by other we spoke to during the week. (We found prices to be surprisingly reasonable..more on this later..)
After Castellammare di Stabia the road begins to rise and the scenery improved immensely. We drove through Agerola, famous for its mozzarella, and Furore, where we got our first glimpse of the Costiera Amalfitana! And finally, into Amalfi itself, where we had booked five nights at the Hotel Floridiana, which currently holds the #1 position for Amalfi hotels on Trip Advisor:
http://www.hotelfloridiana.it/english/enhome.html
As some of you know, I vacillated endlessly about an Amalfi hotel for quite awhile prior to departure. We had originally planned to stay at the Luna Convento but were a bit put off by a few poor reviews. After having visited the Luna, I now realize that it would have been just fine, but at 220 Euro for a standard room at the Luna, versus 140 for a superior at the Floridiana, we were very pleased with our decision.
As soon as we arrived in Amalfi, the driver phoned the hotel and Agnese, the young owner, met us in the main square and helped us with our bags. The location of the Floridiana is ideal. Although only about a two minute walk from the piazza, it has a secluded feeling due to its position behind the bustle of the main street and up a few steps. We were given Room #1, a superior room with a terrace overlooking the main street. The room was simple and very comfortable. (We were never bothered by noise form the street but if you are a light sleeper you might want to forego the terrace rooms)
The hotel was formerly a residence for priests and has been in the present owner’s family for about 100 years; she has run it as a hotel for about 4 years. The public areas are lovely; a glorious frescoed ceiling highlights the dining room where breakfast (included) is served; seating is on transparent Ghost chairs which provide a foil for the gilt-accented furnishings and brocade silks. (take a look at the website for an idea of the dining room and guest rooms)
More important than the ceiling and the chairs was the personal attention given us by Agnese and MariaRosa. Both of these women made our stay one of our most memorable in many, many trips to Italy. Both speak English well and were always on hand to give information and advice or just to chat. They made us feel as if we were their guests in a private home, a feeling accentuated by the fact that we rarely came in contact with any other guests during our 5-night stay.
From the minute we left the hotel, we were also convinced that our choice of Amalfi was a good one. We remarked about this to each other many times during the trip. I suspect that people who cautioned against staying here have not actually lodged in the town. While the area on the coast road where the buses and cars park seems a bit hectic, and the main square and the artery leading north away from the sea were often crowded with daytrippers, these do not represent Amalfi as a whole. There is an entire other world away from these areas and along the narrow covered lanes that stretch up the hillside on both sides of the main street. Time and time gain we commented on the resemblance to Andalucia’s “white villages” , and I was also reminded of whitewashed Moorish architecture in the Maghreb. But with pointed arches for window openings.
After a quick stroll around town (no shortage of shops selling lemon soaps and limoncello and a surprising number of items with Mussonlini’s portrait..I made a private note to consider an Il Duce apron for a cook friend of ours) and a short rest, it was time for our first Amalfi coast dinner. Through the hotel, we had reserved a table at A Paranza, a SlowFood pick in neighboring Atrani, about a 15 minute walk (along the main road or on the stepped passageways along the hillside) from the hotel. Atrani is a sleepy sister town to Amalfi; even on this busy Sunday, we saw very few people as we walked along the narrow streets and the covered lanes. We met up with another couple and decided to share a table; at 7:30 the four of us were the only diners but the restaurant filled to capacity by 9:30pm. Most of our fellow diners were Italian. Here, and elsewhere, we found it best to reserve ahead the day before.
A Paranza proved to be one of our favorite restaurants of the trip and we would return here on our last night in Amalfi.
Here and at other local restaurants, most diners did not consult the printed menu but consulted, instead, with the owner in planning their meals. We peeked at the menu but let him guide us to the best dishes of the day. My partner, who does not eat fish, would often leave the selection in the hands of the waiters entirely. We were never disappointed.
Here is what we ate on this first of two dinners at A Paranza:
Fiori di Zucca Ripeini in Pastella (fried zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and anchovies).. Excellent! My partner, the fish-hater, also loved these!!
Spaghetti vongole.. with two types of clams, vongole veraci and tartufi…wonderful.
Grilled Scampi…Simple and excellent. (served with their heads, which hold the tastiest meat).
Scialatiella a al Siciliana. This was my first experience with this thick, flat long pasta which is a mainstay of Amalfi dining. House made here, with a sauce of eggplant (the “Siciliana” is a key) mozzarella di bufala and cherry tomatoes. Wonderful, marvelous!!!
The house white is a 100% Falanghina from Campania, Falango.
With wine, cover and water, the bill for two persons totaled 55 Euro ($85 US at today’s exchange) By and large, our meal prices remained within the 55- 68 Euro range; we drank only house wines.
After dinner we strolled back to the hotel with a stop for gelato off the main square in Amalfi. Maria at the hotel had recommended a gelato shop at the Porta Marina entrance to the town, on the right as you face the sea.
I will return soon with an account of our first full day in Amalfi, with side trips to Ravello and dinner in Cetara..
Seven Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples
We just arrived back in the US from a glorious week in Amalfi and Naples and while my memory is fresh, I will attempt to share the highlights, with plenty of details about food. I want to thank SeaUrchin, Weadles, Steve James, Dayle, Caroline Edinburgh, Traveler1959, Waldo, Vicenzo, and everyone else everyone who was so patient and forthcoming with help during the planning phase.
We left JFK on the last Saturday in April, flying Iberia to Naples with a connection in Madrid. The Madrid airport is truly spectacular and, more important, it is an excellent point for connections. (For more about the airport, see my report from 2006:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34810840
This is the only airport that I can remember that is actually worth visiting even if you do not plan to fly! The efficiency here would be even more important to us on the way home, when we had only 70 minutes in which to connect to our JFK-bound flight; we made the connection with a half hour to spare! Certainly worth keeping in mind for future trips. (Iberia had the best prices and the best connections from JFK-Naples)
We arrived in Naples at midday on a Sunday and were met at the airport by Renato Cuomo, who we had hired to drive us to Amalfi. Mr. Cuomo was unable to make the drive, but introduced us to his fellow driver, Raffaelo. The price for the transfer was 100 Euro.
The ride of about an hour, took us past through some of the less attractive communi Vesuviani, where about a million people live within the danger zone of a future eruption, many in blocky concrete post-war housing blocks. During the ride, I asked the driver about a fall off in tourism from the US due to the poor exchange rate and he confirmed that this was true and that his bookings had fallen off tremendously. This was echoed by other we spoke to during the week. (We found prices to be surprisingly reasonable..more on this later..)
After Castellammare di Stabia the road begins to rise and the scenery improved immensely. We drove through Agerola, famous for its mozzarella, and Furore, where we got our first glimpse of the Costiera Amalfitana! And finally, into Amalfi itself, where we had booked five nights at the Hotel Floridiana, which currently holds the #1 position for Amalfi hotels on Trip Advisor:
http://www.hotelfloridiana.it/english/enhome.html
As some of you know, I vacillated endlessly about an Amalfi hotel for quite awhile prior to departure. We had originally planned to stay at the Luna Convento but were a bit put off by a few poor reviews. After having visited the Luna, I now realize that it would have been just fine, but at 220 Euro for a standard room at the Luna, versus 140 for a superior at the Floridiana, we were very pleased with our decision.
As soon as we arrived in Amalfi, the driver phoned the hotel and Agnese, the young owner, met us in the main square and helped us with our bags. The location of the Floridiana is ideal. Although only about a two minute walk from the piazza, it has a secluded feeling due to its position behind the bustle of the main street and up a few steps. We were given Room #1, a superior room with a terrace overlooking the main street. The room was simple and very comfortable. (We were never bothered by noise form the street but if you are a light sleeper you might want to forego the terrace rooms)
The hotel was formerly a residence for priests and has been in the present owner’s family for about 100 years; she has run it as a hotel for about 4 years. The public areas are lovely; a glorious frescoed ceiling highlights the dining room where breakfast (included) is served; seating is on transparent Ghost chairs which provide a foil for the gilt-accented furnishings and brocade silks. (take a look at the website for an idea of the dining room and guest rooms)
More important than the ceiling and the chairs was the personal attention given us by Agnese and MariaRosa. Both of these women made our stay one of our most memorable in many, many trips to Italy. Both speak English well and were always on hand to give information and advice or just to chat. They made us feel as if we were their guests in a private home, a feeling accentuated by the fact that we rarely came in contact with any other guests during our 5-night stay.
From the minute we left the hotel, we were also convinced that our choice of Amalfi was a good one. We remarked about this to each other many times during the trip. I suspect that people who cautioned against staying here have not actually lodged in the town. While the area on the coast road where the buses and cars park seems a bit hectic, and the main square and the artery leading north away from the sea were often crowded with daytrippers, these do not represent Amalfi as a whole. There is an entire other world away from these areas and along the narrow covered lanes that stretch up the hillside on both sides of the main street. Time and time gain we commented on the resemblance to Andalucia’s “white villages” , and I was also reminded of whitewashed Moorish architecture in the Maghreb. But with pointed arches for window openings.
After a quick stroll around town (no shortage of shops selling lemon soaps and limoncello and a surprising number of items with Mussonlini’s portrait..I made a private note to consider an Il Duce apron for a cook friend of ours) and a short rest, it was time for our first Amalfi coast dinner. Through the hotel, we had reserved a table at A Paranza, a SlowFood pick in neighboring Atrani, about a 15 minute walk (along the main road or on the stepped passageways along the hillside) from the hotel. Atrani is a sleepy sister town to Amalfi; even on this busy Sunday, we saw very few people as we walked along the narrow streets and the covered lanes. We met up with another couple and decided to share a table; at 7:30 the four of us were the only diners but the restaurant filled to capacity by 9:30pm. Most of our fellow diners were Italian. Here, and elsewhere, we found it best to reserve ahead the day before.
A Paranza proved to be one of our favorite restaurants of the trip and we would return here on our last night in Amalfi.
Here and at other local restaurants, most diners did not consult the printed menu but consulted, instead, with the owner in planning their meals. We peeked at the menu but let him guide us to the best dishes of the day. My partner, who does not eat fish, would often leave the selection in the hands of the waiters entirely. We were never disappointed.
Here is what we ate on this first of two dinners at A Paranza:
Fiori di Zucca Ripeini in Pastella (fried zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and anchovies).. Excellent! My partner, the fish-hater, also loved these!!
Spaghetti vongole.. with two types of clams, vongole veraci and tartufi…wonderful.
Grilled Scampi…Simple and excellent. (served with their heads, which hold the tastiest meat).
Scialatiella a al Siciliana. This was my first experience with this thick, flat long pasta which is a mainstay of Amalfi dining. House made here, with a sauce of eggplant (the “Siciliana” is a key) mozzarella di bufala and cherry tomatoes. Wonderful, marvelous!!!
The house white is a 100% Falanghina from Campania, Falango.
With wine, cover and water, the bill for two persons totaled 55 Euro ($85 US at today’s exchange) By and large, our meal prices remained within the 55- 68 Euro range; we drank only house wines.
After dinner we strolled back to the hotel with a stop for gelato off the main square in Amalfi. Maria at the hotel had recommended a gelato shop at the Porta Marina entrance to the town, on the right as you face the sea.
I will return soon with an account of our first full day in Amalfi, with side trips to Ravello and dinner in Cetara..
May 6th, 2008, 12:20 PM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The following day, Monday, we began the day with breakfast at the hotel. For the first time that I can remember in Italy, we were treated to superb croissants at a hotel breakfast table. These would be our first introduction to the wonders of pasty in Campania and we would consume many more before the week was out. Breakfast at the Floridana is composed of a buffet of these croissants, breads and cakes with various jams and honeys, and juices (alas, not fresh).
By 10am we were on our way to Ravello aboard the blue SITA bus. We has also debated bout whether or not to rent a car for the Amalfi coast. From what we could glean from observation, the driving would not be too bad as speeding is all but impossible. But parking would be another story, as spaces are difficult to find. The Floridiana does offer free parking, for those that are considering renting a car. I would say that the buses are the best bet, although these can be very crowded at peak times and seats are not guaranteed! In summer traveling anywhere on the coast would be problematic unless you time your journeys for off hours.
I should make note here of the Sorrnto City Sightseeing bus, which is a hop-on, hop-ff vehicle with open double decker seating that runs between Amalfi, Minori, Maiori, and , Ravello; one journey costs 3 Euro and a day ticket costs 10:
www.city-sightseeing.it
As far as timing, we found 5 days to be just enough time to allow for an introduction to some of the highlights of the coast without spending all of your time on the road. We never did get to Capri or to Sorrento and are already planning a future trip which we might consider splitting between the Sorrentine Peninsula and Capri. We also did not have time to explore some of the less touristed inland towns such as Agerola and Pogerola. For anyone on a budget, I would suggest looking into eating in one of these towns where restaurant prices are much lower than on the coast itself, or so we were advised by several locals. (There is a SlowFood restaurant in Pogerola which sounded tempting..)
Once in Ravello, we wandered through the gardens of both the Villa Ruffolo and the Villa Cimbrone. Both of these are “musts” and both offer jaw-dropping views of the coast. Gore Vidal once described the views from the Villa Cimbrone as “the most beautiful panorama in the world.”
We also had a look around the 19-room Hotel Villa Cimbone (deluxe double with sea view, 600 Euro) which appears to be an idyllic spot and where the staff was gracious about allowing non-guests to have a look around. (We found this to be true at each of the hotels we peeked into, including Santa Caterina in Amalfi, Luna Convento in Amalfi, and Le Sireneuse in Positano).
Next: a visit to a coral and cameo (both materials have a long history of being worked for for jewelery on this coast, although I suspect that most of the the coral now comes from Taiwan and around, since it has been over harvested to perilous levels here) studio/shop to the left of the Duomo.
And then it was lunchtime! I had read for years about Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello, which had been a favorite of Garbo and Vidal and many other luminaries, and did not know what to expect..would there be laminated menus with flags posted outside? NO! Cumpa Cosimo is a no frills trattoria under the watchful helm of Netta Bottone, whose father, Cosimo, founded the place 80 years ago. Netta growns many of the vegetables at her farm in nearby Scala. We quickly warmed to the place, even though there were many fellow tourists in evidence that day at lunch. I suggest you consult the menu for a minute and confer with Netta about your selections. Trust her!
This was our very light lunch:
Orata, simply prepared with white wine and lemon..( I had thought this fish was bream but Netta insisted it was “bass’ In English. Whatever it was, it was very good!) When ordering fish, I suggest inquiring whether or not it has been farmed or caught I the wild..
Green salad..lightly dressed soft lettuces and fennel..excellent
Tomato and fresh ricotta salad (provided complimentary to my partner who had not ordered a salad; Netta did not want him to sit before an empty place). This was a revelation…first-rate ingredients, simply presented. And to think the tomatoes were not even in season…(!!)
I suppose it is true what they say about the soil in this part of the world!
Canneloni with meat and tomato sauce..suggested by Netta for the fish-shunner at the table..excellent!!!!!!!
With a carafe of house white wine, water and cover, the bill totaled 35 Euro.
I will mention here that ever since I had read a New York Times article that called their appellation “one of the world’s smallest and most obscure,” I had been eager to sample the aspirino wines from Aversa, in Caserta province and from neighboring Naples province. At Cumpa Cosimo and at every other place we ate and in every liquor store we entered, I asked for this wine and every time this would provoke a smile and sometimes even a slight laugh… In Cetara I got so far as to be told that the wine was not yet ready. It was not until we reached Naples that my quest was satisfied!!! Here is the article:
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/08/di...mp;oref=slogin
By 10am we were on our way to Ravello aboard the blue SITA bus. We has also debated bout whether or not to rent a car for the Amalfi coast. From what we could glean from observation, the driving would not be too bad as speeding is all but impossible. But parking would be another story, as spaces are difficult to find. The Floridiana does offer free parking, for those that are considering renting a car. I would say that the buses are the best bet, although these can be very crowded at peak times and seats are not guaranteed! In summer traveling anywhere on the coast would be problematic unless you time your journeys for off hours.
I should make note here of the Sorrnto City Sightseeing bus, which is a hop-on, hop-ff vehicle with open double decker seating that runs between Amalfi, Minori, Maiori, and , Ravello; one journey costs 3 Euro and a day ticket costs 10:
www.city-sightseeing.it
As far as timing, we found 5 days to be just enough time to allow for an introduction to some of the highlights of the coast without spending all of your time on the road. We never did get to Capri or to Sorrento and are already planning a future trip which we might consider splitting between the Sorrentine Peninsula and Capri. We also did not have time to explore some of the less touristed inland towns such as Agerola and Pogerola. For anyone on a budget, I would suggest looking into eating in one of these towns where restaurant prices are much lower than on the coast itself, or so we were advised by several locals. (There is a SlowFood restaurant in Pogerola which sounded tempting..)
Once in Ravello, we wandered through the gardens of both the Villa Ruffolo and the Villa Cimbrone. Both of these are “musts” and both offer jaw-dropping views of the coast. Gore Vidal once described the views from the Villa Cimbrone as “the most beautiful panorama in the world.”
We also had a look around the 19-room Hotel Villa Cimbone (deluxe double with sea view, 600 Euro) which appears to be an idyllic spot and where the staff was gracious about allowing non-guests to have a look around. (We found this to be true at each of the hotels we peeked into, including Santa Caterina in Amalfi, Luna Convento in Amalfi, and Le Sireneuse in Positano).
Next: a visit to a coral and cameo (both materials have a long history of being worked for for jewelery on this coast, although I suspect that most of the the coral now comes from Taiwan and around, since it has been over harvested to perilous levels here) studio/shop to the left of the Duomo.
And then it was lunchtime! I had read for years about Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello, which had been a favorite of Garbo and Vidal and many other luminaries, and did not know what to expect..would there be laminated menus with flags posted outside? NO! Cumpa Cosimo is a no frills trattoria under the watchful helm of Netta Bottone, whose father, Cosimo, founded the place 80 years ago. Netta growns many of the vegetables at her farm in nearby Scala. We quickly warmed to the place, even though there were many fellow tourists in evidence that day at lunch. I suggest you consult the menu for a minute and confer with Netta about your selections. Trust her!
This was our very light lunch:
Orata, simply prepared with white wine and lemon..( I had thought this fish was bream but Netta insisted it was “bass’ In English. Whatever it was, it was very good!) When ordering fish, I suggest inquiring whether or not it has been farmed or caught I the wild..
Green salad..lightly dressed soft lettuces and fennel..excellent
Tomato and fresh ricotta salad (provided complimentary to my partner who had not ordered a salad; Netta did not want him to sit before an empty place). This was a revelation…first-rate ingredients, simply presented. And to think the tomatoes were not even in season…(!!)
I suppose it is true what they say about the soil in this part of the world!
Canneloni with meat and tomato sauce..suggested by Netta for the fish-shunner at the table..excellent!!!!!!!
With a carafe of house white wine, water and cover, the bill totaled 35 Euro.
I will mention here that ever since I had read a New York Times article that called their appellation “one of the world’s smallest and most obscure,” I had been eager to sample the aspirino wines from Aversa, in Caserta province and from neighboring Naples province. At Cumpa Cosimo and at every other place we ate and in every liquor store we entered, I asked for this wine and every time this would provoke a smile and sometimes even a slight laugh… In Cetara I got so far as to be told that the wine was not yet ready. It was not until we reached Naples that my quest was satisfied!!! Here is the article:
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/08/di...mp;oref=slogin
May 6th, 2008, 01:26 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After some further wandering around Ravello we were back at the SITA bus stop, along with about 50 others, to await the bus back to Amalfi. There was quite a scramble to obtain seats on the 3pm bus and I shudder to think what the scene would be like in the height of summer. So if you do go in high season, again, try to time your day trips if possible, to avoid the crowds. Once back in Amalfi, we took a short peek into a few of the shops. With the poor exchange rate, I found prices for the ceramics and various food items to be high. We paid a short visit to Antichi Sapori di Amalfi, a few steps in from the main square on your right as you face the sea:
http://www.antichisaporidamalfi.it/web/index.cfm?area=2
Here you can watch the production of limoncello and stock up on this spirit in what seemed like hundreds of bottle shapes. Note that contrary to what I have read here, limoncello is yellow and not green!!! (we were later told by a local that no self-respecting Amalfitani would ever BUY their limoncello; rather, they make it at home from lemons, sugar and pure alcohol).
And then, it was time to think about dinner. By 5pm we were at the bus stop again, bound for the fishing village of Cetara, renowned for the production of anchovy and tuna both fresh and in various guises, and for excellent local restaurants.
We arrived in Cetara close to 6pm and had time for a stroll around the port area and a linger on the benches near the sea, where we watched the action until it was ready to head to Al Convento, our chosen spot for dinner, where we had reserved a table at the unfashionable hour of 7:30.
Al Convento proved to be another of our favorites of the trip. Another SlowFood pick (one of three in Cetara!), the restaurant occupies part of a former convent and the whitewashed room with soaring arches is adorned with beautiful old frescoes. Luckily for the fish-shy among us, the menu had plenty of range.
Here is what we devoured at this fantastic restaurant, which is also known for their pizza:
+Tortino di Scarola e Bottarga di Tonno (9 Euro)..A wonderful flan/pudding-type confection of escarole and raisins topped with generous shavings of bottarga (pressed tuna roe). Memorable, innovative, and delightful..
+Spaghetti con Colatura di Alici (8 Euro)..Pasta topped with colatura, the modern version of the anchovy liquid known in Roman times as
Garum (see NY Times article linked below for recipe; colatura is sold in shops along the coast for about 10 Euro a small bottle, and also at New York’s Buon Italia in Chelsea Market)
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...ara&st=nyt
+Cannelloni con Ricotta e Stratiacella di Bufula (7 Euro)…terrific!
+Pizza Margherita (4 Euro)..priced at about half what places in the more touristed towns charge, this was our first introcudtion to the joy that is Campanian pizza. For the rest of the week, we would be hungry for just one more slice!!
House white: Sammarco from Ravello (this was the house white; the wine list covers much of Campania and beyond at prices ranging from 10 Euro to 15 Euro (for a bottle of Guigal Rhone)
Total with water and cover: 38 Euro..a small price to pay for such pleasure!
By 9pm we were back on the bus, bound for Amalfi and the Floridiana.
Al Convento, Piazza San Francisco, 16, Cetara. (Up the steps from the piazza, less than a block from the bus stop) Closed Tuesday.
http://www.antichisaporidamalfi.it/web/index.cfm?area=2
Here you can watch the production of limoncello and stock up on this spirit in what seemed like hundreds of bottle shapes. Note that contrary to what I have read here, limoncello is yellow and not green!!! (we were later told by a local that no self-respecting Amalfitani would ever BUY their limoncello; rather, they make it at home from lemons, sugar and pure alcohol).
And then, it was time to think about dinner. By 5pm we were at the bus stop again, bound for the fishing village of Cetara, renowned for the production of anchovy and tuna both fresh and in various guises, and for excellent local restaurants.
We arrived in Cetara close to 6pm and had time for a stroll around the port area and a linger on the benches near the sea, where we watched the action until it was ready to head to Al Convento, our chosen spot for dinner, where we had reserved a table at the unfashionable hour of 7:30.
Al Convento proved to be another of our favorites of the trip. Another SlowFood pick (one of three in Cetara!), the restaurant occupies part of a former convent and the whitewashed room with soaring arches is adorned with beautiful old frescoes. Luckily for the fish-shy among us, the menu had plenty of range.
Here is what we devoured at this fantastic restaurant, which is also known for their pizza:
+Tortino di Scarola e Bottarga di Tonno (9 Euro)..A wonderful flan/pudding-type confection of escarole and raisins topped with generous shavings of bottarga (pressed tuna roe). Memorable, innovative, and delightful..
+Spaghetti con Colatura di Alici (8 Euro)..Pasta topped with colatura, the modern version of the anchovy liquid known in Roman times as
Garum (see NY Times article linked below for recipe; colatura is sold in shops along the coast for about 10 Euro a small bottle, and also at New York’s Buon Italia in Chelsea Market)
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...ara&st=nyt
+Cannelloni con Ricotta e Stratiacella di Bufula (7 Euro)…terrific!
+Pizza Margherita (4 Euro)..priced at about half what places in the more touristed towns charge, this was our first introcudtion to the joy that is Campanian pizza. For the rest of the week, we would be hungry for just one more slice!!
House white: Sammarco from Ravello (this was the house white; the wine list covers much of Campania and beyond at prices ranging from 10 Euro to 15 Euro (for a bottle of Guigal Rhone)
Total with water and cover: 38 Euro..a small price to pay for such pleasure!
By 9pm we were back on the bus, bound for Amalfi and the Floridiana.
Al Convento, Piazza San Francisco, 16, Cetara. (Up the steps from the piazza, less than a block from the bus stop) Closed Tuesday.
May 6th, 2008, 01:39 PM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since the editing function does not work, here is what I meant to write above:
The coast from Amalfi to Cetara is wilder and even more picturesque than the more developed stretches further west. The town of Cetara reminds me of what many of the other towns must have been like before the advent of mass tourism. This is a working fishing town, with a fishing harbor and colorful boats puled onto the sands of the town beach. There is apparently one good (three-star) hotel in town, the Cetus, and I would guess that this would make a great base for a few nights.
Also, those watching the budget might also consider exploring the possibility of lodging in Minori or Maiori, towns which while not as attractive as the more famous coastal ones, would not be inconvenient for exploration by bus and, from what we heard, offer far lower prices.
To elaborate on what I wrote above about limoncello, the liqueur has no green in it whatsoever, whether or not it is made form "pure" ingredients or has preservatives added. I suspect one would become very thirsty searching for a greenish limoncello!
The coast from Amalfi to Cetara is wilder and even more picturesque than the more developed stretches further west. The town of Cetara reminds me of what many of the other towns must have been like before the advent of mass tourism. This is a working fishing town, with a fishing harbor and colorful boats puled onto the sands of the town beach. There is apparently one good (three-star) hotel in town, the Cetus, and I would guess that this would make a great base for a few nights.
Also, those watching the budget might also consider exploring the possibility of lodging in Minori or Maiori, towns which while not as attractive as the more famous coastal ones, would not be inconvenient for exploration by bus and, from what we heard, offer far lower prices.
To elaborate on what I wrote above about limoncello, the liqueur has no green in it whatsoever, whether or not it is made form "pure" ingredients or has preservatives added. I suspect one would become very thirsty searching for a greenish limoncello!
May 6th, 2008, 01:47 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
..and here are some photos (not my own) of Cetara:
http://www.comune.cetara.sa.it/defau...&Nascosto=
http://www.comune.cetara.sa.it/defau...&Nascosto=
May 6th, 2008, 01:50 PM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
May 6th, 2008, 04:34 PM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks..I will be back with more tomorrow. But one odd thing happened on the flight over. My partner had packed (and I saw them before we left) two sections of the New York Times in the outer pocket of his checked bag. Imagine our surprise when these were missing on arrival in Naples! These were the Friday and Sunday Arts sections..there must be an English-speaking film buff working in baggage handling!
May 6th, 2008, 04:38 PM
#12
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eks,
I was excited to see your report today while at (ugh) work. I knew I had to save it until I got home and could enjoy a glass of wine to go with your meal descriptions!
I was right.
Oh yes the Ravello bus scramble! I really didn't think you would run into it in May. Good to know....
I was excited to see your report today while at (ugh) work. I knew I had to save it until I got home and could enjoy a glass of wine to go with your meal descriptions!
I was right.
Oh yes the Ravello bus scramble! I really didn't think you would run into it in May. Good to know....
May 6th, 2008, 11:52 PM
#14
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am enjoying your report *so much*, eks ! I feel honoured that you think I helped with the planning.
Madrid airport is cool, isn't it ? Interesting that it had the same architect as Heathrow Terminal 5 - hopefully that will seem just as great in time, once the teething problems are settled.
You have just made me want to stay in Amalfi again - and eat in all the places you did ! I think you are correct to say "I suspect that people who cautioned against staying here have not actually lodged in the town". I hadn't read of the Floridiana before but it sounds ideal - I will make a note. I stayed twice in the Santa Caterina a few years ago & it's gorgeous, but out of my price range now - also not ideal being a bit out of town, although it does have the advantage of its own 'beach'. I don't remember noticing the Mussolini souvenirs but I suspect DH, who just started cooking last year, would love the apron
(As a piece of kitsch I hasten to add !)
I have always understood orata, and its near-homonym dorada, to be bream, too.
Madrid airport is cool, isn't it ? Interesting that it had the same architect as Heathrow Terminal 5 - hopefully that will seem just as great in time, once the teething problems are settled.
You have just made me want to stay in Amalfi again - and eat in all the places you did ! I think you are correct to say "I suspect that people who cautioned against staying here have not actually lodged in the town". I hadn't read of the Floridiana before but it sounds ideal - I will make a note. I stayed twice in the Santa Caterina a few years ago & it's gorgeous, but out of my price range now - also not ideal being a bit out of town, although it does have the advantage of its own 'beach'. I don't remember noticing the Mussolini souvenirs but I suspect DH, who just started cooking last year, would love the apron
(As a piece of kitsch I hasten to add !) I have always understood orata, and its near-homonym dorada, to be bream, too.
May 7th, 2008, 04:59 AM
#15
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Caroline you were a huge help to me. I am trying to keep this a secret but I spent much time since I have been back reading old trip reports and dreaming of going back to that area! So do not be surprised if I quiz you about Ischia sometime soon! I see you are returning again!
I am astounded that people here dismiss Amalfi. But I am also certain that these views come from day trippers. There is a world beyond what people see on the main street..all the scalinatelli leading into the hills where the Amalfitani actually live. And the walks!
And the views! Yes, certainly keep Hotel Floridiana in mind. We did peek into the Santa Caterina and it is, indeed, gorgeous. But all those photos of Hillary Clinton everywhere! The walk to town is along the main road so is not so pleasant but I am sure one could get "used to it" and refresh with a cool vodka and lemon on the terrace after the trek back to the hotel!
To tell the truth, we visited Positano on a day trip (coming soon in the report) and it did not possess nearly the allure for me that Amalfi did. So perhaps that was because WE were the daytrippers in that town.
ALSO, I made a big omission in forgetting to thank KYBOURBON for kindly lending me the Capalbo book on Campania. Thanks, KY.
I am astounded that people here dismiss Amalfi. But I am also certain that these views come from day trippers. There is a world beyond what people see on the main street..all the scalinatelli leading into the hills where the Amalfitani actually live. And the walks!
And the views! Yes, certainly keep Hotel Floridiana in mind. We did peek into the Santa Caterina and it is, indeed, gorgeous. But all those photos of Hillary Clinton everywhere! The walk to town is along the main road so is not so pleasant but I am sure one could get "used to it" and refresh with a cool vodka and lemon on the terrace after the trek back to the hotel!
To tell the truth, we visited Positano on a day trip (coming soon in the report) and it did not possess nearly the allure for me that Amalfi did. So perhaps that was because WE were the daytrippers in that town.
ALSO, I made a big omission in forgetting to thank KYBOURBON for kindly lending me the Capalbo book on Campania. Thanks, KY.
May 7th, 2008, 06:12 AM
#17
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So glad to help ! Although I've stayed in/just outside Positano I still don't like it as much as Amalfi which is more of a real town. Positano in the evening is pretty much the same as Positano in the daytime - just full of tourists & boutiques aimed at tourists. Each time I've been it's just been because of the hotel we stayed in, and we barely left.
May 7th, 2008, 08:43 AM
#18
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
eks -
Love reading your report, especially your feelings towards Amalfi. I am torn between Positano (for the views) or Sorrento and than started considering Amalfi. If we're planning a day trip to Pompeii and Capri would you still recommend it?
Looking forward to your next installment.
Love reading your report, especially your feelings towards Amalfi. I am torn between Positano (for the views) or Sorrento and than started considering Amalfi. If we're planning a day trip to Pompeii and Capri would you still recommend it?
Looking forward to your next installment.
May 7th, 2008, 09:12 AM
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 23,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have not been to Sorrento in years so can't comment on staying there. It is, however, closer to Pompeii.
But yes, Amalfi is a great base and you could certainly travel to Pompeii and Capri from there. There are ferries to Capri, weather permitting, and you could take the bus/train combo to Pompeii. And since many buses originate in Amalfi, your chance of getting a seat, no small factor, are better in Amalfi I would guess.
Amalfi has views that, to me, are just as spectacular as those in Positano. And the main square and main street are flat, unlike in Positano. We liked Amalfi so much that we gave up on our idea of taking a daytrip to Capri.. But Amalfi does not ahve the concentration of luxury boutiques that Positano has, so if that is of interest you are better off in Positano. We also noticed a much larger concentration of Americans and other English-speaking tourists in Positano than in Amalfi, but that is not scientific as it is based only on our brief visit.
To me, in a short (less than a week) visit it might better to concentrate either on the Amalfi Drive or the Sorrentine Peninsula. (visiting Pompeii from either place) There are day trips within both of those regions and you do not want to spend every day on the bus. In fact, we are even considering returning in the future and basing someplace on the S. peninsula so we can explore that and perhaps visit either Capri or Ischia for a few days.
I don't think there is any right and wrong here. Amalfi appealed to us because it was a real town that, while there were many tourists, also appeared to have an existence apart from the tourist-oriented places. There were real shops for locals and much opportunity to get away from the congestion of the main street. Perhaps this is true of Positano as well, on the upper half of the town, above the main road. I wonder what that part of Positano is like..
But yes, Amalfi is a great base and you could certainly travel to Pompeii and Capri from there. There are ferries to Capri, weather permitting, and you could take the bus/train combo to Pompeii. And since many buses originate in Amalfi, your chance of getting a seat, no small factor, are better in Amalfi I would guess.
Amalfi has views that, to me, are just as spectacular as those in Positano. And the main square and main street are flat, unlike in Positano. We liked Amalfi so much that we gave up on our idea of taking a daytrip to Capri.. But Amalfi does not ahve the concentration of luxury boutiques that Positano has, so if that is of interest you are better off in Positano. We also noticed a much larger concentration of Americans and other English-speaking tourists in Positano than in Amalfi, but that is not scientific as it is based only on our brief visit.
To me, in a short (less than a week) visit it might better to concentrate either on the Amalfi Drive or the Sorrentine Peninsula. (visiting Pompeii from either place) There are day trips within both of those regions and you do not want to spend every day on the bus. In fact, we are even considering returning in the future and basing someplace on the S. peninsula so we can explore that and perhaps visit either Capri or Ischia for a few days.
I don't think there is any right and wrong here. Amalfi appealed to us because it was a real town that, while there were many tourists, also appeared to have an existence apart from the tourist-oriented places. There were real shops for locals and much opportunity to get away from the congestion of the main street. Perhaps this is true of Positano as well, on the upper half of the town, above the main road. I wonder what that part of Positano is like..
May 7th, 2008, 09:27 AM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I want to add I am glad if I helped you in some ways in planning your trip. I love Amalfi so much, we stayed in a beautiful apartment there for two weeks. At night the town is just for the locals and the stay-overs like you say which makes it so pleasant. I think we tried almost all the restaurants in town, some of them hidden away in the covered alleys.
