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Trip Report Sardinia: Glorious beaches & mountains too

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In mid-late September, we visited Sardinia for a week arriving by ferry from Corsica to Santa Teresa di Gallura. I’ve previously posted a description of our Corsica trip under this link Corsica: One giant rock

The 50 minute trip from Bonifacio on the Saremar ferry was warm, calm and a good deal at about $25 per person (booked online ahead of time). When we arrived, we realized our rental car office booked through AutoEurope (using the Europcar agency) was up a steep hill so got a taxi at 10E to take us there. It was an easy check in and got “upgraded” to a Peugeot 5000...a rather large car but very comfortable and high tech...first time we’ve ever had an automatic, electronic parking brake. However, the car was filthy...dirty exterior and the rugs weren’t vacuumed. Finding our way out of the city is always more challenging than expected, but our destination was about 3 miles away to Tancamelis B&B near La Marmorata beach. At an unmarked road before you reach the beach, you take a sharp right up a very steep and unpaved road into the foothills until you come to a whitewashed, organic looking Moroccan style villa.
Deb, the cute, young proprietress, came out to greet us and we were lucky to be able to check in about 11am. The modern home is set high in the country hillside with a view of the sea in the distance, surrounded by attractive cacti and natural landscaping. Deb, her husband Antonio and young daughter live on the main floor, and we walked down and around to the back, where 3 suites open up to a grass and stone terrace lounging area. Our suite, the Murichessa room, was the largest and on one end. The entire home is constructed of concrete with the furniture built in, softened with cushions, and filled with artistic, natural touches. Our terrace had a stone inlaid floor and Moroccan style bench with pillows and a covered roof.

You walk into the room through an iron-gated screen door fronted by tabbed linen curtains with purple cords. All the furnishings, including a daybed, are sculpted concrete in shades of lavender, purple and light gray....very serene. You face a half-canopied linen platform bed with whitewashed aqua wood headboard and sumptuous natural linens. The walls are a faux painted mulberry color and support a flat screen TV...again with about 800 channels and not one English speaking one. In the back is a large bathroom with a trough sink inlaid with 2” purple glass tiles, and a separate room for the commode, bidet and a huge purple mosaic walk in shower with a round rain style shower head. Conveniences included a minibar refrigerator and safe, but no toiletries, hair dryer or iron. It was rather dark and cool inside and while I loved it, it felt like being in an elegant cave. Another quirk was that you had to pay cash on check in for the whole amount, which was communicated ahead of time so we made sure to have enough euros on us. But, she didn’t require a deposit ahead of time to hold the reservation.

We dumped off our suitcases and made our way to Capo Testa to visit the acclaimed beaches, but we were disappointed. It was very crowded and not as pristine as we’d hoped. We went to an easy to reach, east facing beach, (I think it was Rene di Ponente) with clear water, on one side of the isthmus. However, if you make more of an effort, you can drive further onto the cape and hike down to what looked like beautiful little coves where you can seen the unusual rock formations.
That night, we drove into Santa Teresa and ate at Ristorante Marlin winebar, a seafood restaurant recommended by Deb. Sitting outside on a little terrace, we had tagliarini with squid ink and shrimp, langouste and clams and also a John Dory fish with potatoes...both very good. For dessert, we tried the traditional Sardinian dessert, Sebados (or Seadas), a deep-fried fritter filled with fresh cheese and drizzled with local honey....delicious!
Afterwards, the town square was set up for a concert with a lighted stage and folding chairs. We sat down for about a half hour with a bunch of other people to wait for whatever was going to happen. Good canned dance music was playing over the speakers. We amused ourselves quite well (probably helped by the dinner wine) concluding that this was in fact, the concert and we should get up on the stage and dance. (which we didn’t) We finally left, and with the help of Angela (my husband’s GPS that I frequently fight with) found our way back in the black countryside for a restful sleep.

Next: La Maddalena

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