Sardinia again
Nov 4th, 2009, 05:47 AM
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Sardinia again
Landed in Alghero on October 1st and found that the town had changed since my last visit 2 years ago, not necessarily for the better. It was swarming with people. However hotel San Francesco was a haven of peace. The hotel is located on the first - and part of the second - floor of a cloister. It is very basic but clean. Breakfast was limited, the bathroom was tiny but it was fine for a short stay and the staff was very nice.
We headed for Tempio Pausania the next morning, stopping south of Sassari to visit a one of the most beautiful in Sardinia, Santa Trinita di Saccargia. Our hotel was a few miles from the town (which happens to be lovely and very untouristy) and close to Aggius. Aggius is a small town built at the foot of a very strange mountain and is known for its traditional hand-made carpets. Sure enough, we met a very nice weaver who showed told us all about her art, directed us to the local folk museum ("MEOC"), advised us not to miss the '"Valle della Luna" a few miles away - a very strange landscape of rocks -and told us to come back the next morning as it was the first day of the village festival.
So the next morning we showed up for the Festival of Nostra Signora del Rosario. There was a mass in front of the church with a Sardinian men choir, then a procession with horses, people in traditional costumes and of course the statue of the Virgin.
In the afternoon we drove to Santa Teresa di Gallura and Capo Terra.
Next day was spent at sea. We drove to Palau and went on a day-long boat trip which took us through the Maddalena Archipelago. There were onty 6 of us on the boat and our captain was also an excellent cook. The boat stopped several times to let us swim and/or eat. A wonderful day, emerald-gree water, blue sky and some mighty yachts moored here and there ....
After 3 nights in Tempio we left for Cala Gonone on the East coast. Stopped at San Teodoro for a quick lunch and were at our hotel early enough to take a boat to the Grotto di Bue Marino, one of the local attractions. Cala Gonone was full of German and Swiss tourists. It is a good base for hiking, cliff climbing, diving, snorkeling and all these people were teeming with energy.
Next day was spent on a boat again, a mini-cruise that takes you along the coast and its beautiful beaches, some of them only accessible by boat. The boat takes you to one beach and leaves you there if you want, then comes back and takes you to another beach. We shared our time between Cala Goloritze and Cala Luna and came back to the hotel late in the afternoon.
Note : take bathing suit/water/some food for the day. There is only one restaurant in Cala Luna but you have to walk through a creek to get to it and it is not very practical.
We visited Dorgali (wonderful leather bags) and then drove to Fonni, a mountain village in the center of Sardinia. We took the long road via Orgosolo where people express their political opinions by painting murals on the walls and Mamoiada. The people of Mamoiada celebrate San Antonio with a very strange ritual : the mamuthones, men wearing coats made of goat skin and tragic dark wooden masks dance through the village streets. Cow/sheep/goat bells are attached to their clothes - 20, 30, 50 of them - which weighs 60 lbs or more. There is a very interesting Mask Museum in the village.
In Tempio we had fled the hotel one day as there was a wedding party (fortunately ending at 10 pm). What was expecting us at the hotel in Fonni but another wedding party, this time both for lunch and dinner and for 400 people .........
So we fled again, drove to Arbatax and its famous red rocks which were a huge disappointment. It must have been a lovely place before they decided to improve on it by building a gigantic cement belvedere. Litter and garbage everywhere, really a sorry place.
While roaming the countryside, we stopped in Gavoi where there was another festival. People were selling all sorts of things in the streets ; apples, egg-plants, chestnusts, lace, pastries, wood sculptures and T-shirts "made in jail" by prisoners.............
There was a parade of medieval knights and damsels waving flags and in the middle of all that, a biergarten (under a tent) with lederhosen-clad Austrian giants cracking their whips......
Don't miss the church of San Gavino in Gavoi and its very rare statue of the Virgin on her death bed ("dormition of the Virgin").
It was then time to drive back to Alghero and fly home.
We headed for Tempio Pausania the next morning, stopping south of Sassari to visit a one of the most beautiful in Sardinia, Santa Trinita di Saccargia. Our hotel was a few miles from the town (which happens to be lovely and very untouristy) and close to Aggius. Aggius is a small town built at the foot of a very strange mountain and is known for its traditional hand-made carpets. Sure enough, we met a very nice weaver who showed told us all about her art, directed us to the local folk museum ("MEOC"), advised us not to miss the '"Valle della Luna" a few miles away - a very strange landscape of rocks -and told us to come back the next morning as it was the first day of the village festival.
So the next morning we showed up for the Festival of Nostra Signora del Rosario. There was a mass in front of the church with a Sardinian men choir, then a procession with horses, people in traditional costumes and of course the statue of the Virgin.
In the afternoon we drove to Santa Teresa di Gallura and Capo Terra.
Next day was spent at sea. We drove to Palau and went on a day-long boat trip which took us through the Maddalena Archipelago. There were onty 6 of us on the boat and our captain was also an excellent cook. The boat stopped several times to let us swim and/or eat. A wonderful day, emerald-gree water, blue sky and some mighty yachts moored here and there ....
After 3 nights in Tempio we left for Cala Gonone on the East coast. Stopped at San Teodoro for a quick lunch and were at our hotel early enough to take a boat to the Grotto di Bue Marino, one of the local attractions. Cala Gonone was full of German and Swiss tourists. It is a good base for hiking, cliff climbing, diving, snorkeling and all these people were teeming with energy.
Next day was spent on a boat again, a mini-cruise that takes you along the coast and its beautiful beaches, some of them only accessible by boat. The boat takes you to one beach and leaves you there if you want, then comes back and takes you to another beach. We shared our time between Cala Goloritze and Cala Luna and came back to the hotel late in the afternoon.
Note : take bathing suit/water/some food for the day. There is only one restaurant in Cala Luna but you have to walk through a creek to get to it and it is not very practical.
We visited Dorgali (wonderful leather bags) and then drove to Fonni, a mountain village in the center of Sardinia. We took the long road via Orgosolo where people express their political opinions by painting murals on the walls and Mamoiada. The people of Mamoiada celebrate San Antonio with a very strange ritual : the mamuthones, men wearing coats made of goat skin and tragic dark wooden masks dance through the village streets. Cow/sheep/goat bells are attached to their clothes - 20, 30, 50 of them - which weighs 60 lbs or more. There is a very interesting Mask Museum in the village.
In Tempio we had fled the hotel one day as there was a wedding party (fortunately ending at 10 pm). What was expecting us at the hotel in Fonni but another wedding party, this time both for lunch and dinner and for 400 people .........
So we fled again, drove to Arbatax and its famous red rocks which were a huge disappointment. It must have been a lovely place before they decided to improve on it by building a gigantic cement belvedere. Litter and garbage everywhere, really a sorry place.
While roaming the countryside, we stopped in Gavoi where there was another festival. People were selling all sorts of things in the streets ; apples, egg-plants, chestnusts, lace, pastries, wood sculptures and T-shirts "made in jail" by prisoners.............
There was a parade of medieval knights and damsels waving flags and in the middle of all that, a biergarten (under a tent) with lederhosen-clad Austrian giants cracking their whips......
Don't miss the church of San Gavino in Gavoi and its very rare statue of the Virgin on her death bed ("dormition of the Virgin").
It was then time to drive back to Alghero and fly home.
Nov 12th, 2009, 10:46 AM
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Pvoyageuse - good to see you back in Sardinia - love the story about Gavoi - we have done this many times simply fallen on a place which is holding a local festival - best way to get a feel for the place.
Why had Alghero changed so much - the development?
Good to see you made it over to the Maddalena islands we love them.
If ever get the chance go down to Capriccioli beach, Cala Di Volpi at dawn before the idiots with too much money arrive. For me its the best in Europe (nowhere near as good as the Carribean) - the sunlight as the sunrises is magical just get out about 10am as the Ferraris start to arrive.
We just spent a week in Siracusa (not impressed) so are close to booking another flight to Olbia to see unspolit landscapes and friendly people - unlike Sicily.
Why had Alghero changed so much - the development?
Good to see you made it over to the Maddalena islands we love them.
If ever get the chance go down to Capriccioli beach, Cala Di Volpi at dawn before the idiots with too much money arrive. For me its the best in Europe (nowhere near as good as the Carribean) - the sunlight as the sunrises is magical just get out about 10am as the Ferraris start to arrive.
We just spent a week in Siracusa (not impressed) so are close to booking another flight to Olbia to see unspolit landscapes and friendly people - unlike Sicily.
Nov 12th, 2009, 12:29 PM
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markrosy :
I read your Sicily report
. Very harsh, but I see what you mean, especially the friendliness of the people. Nothing comparable to Sardinia, it's another country 
I hope Alghero does not turn that way (thank you Ryanair) : the town center is full of tacky shops and the owners begin to have an attitude.
Believe it or not we skipped Costa Smeralda but thanks for the tip re Capriccioli, I'll save it for next trip
I read your Sicily report
. Very harsh, but I see what you mean, especially the friendliness of the people. Nothing comparable to Sardinia, it's another country I hope Alghero does not turn that way (thank you Ryanair) : the town center is full of tacky shops and the owners begin to have an attitude.
Believe it or not we skipped Costa Smeralda but thanks for the tip re Capriccioli, I'll save it for next trip
Nov 12th, 2009, 01:04 PM
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Sicily was the biggest travel let down we have ever had. After 200 flights!
Built up far too high and let down far to low! In theory this should have been our dream destination food, architecture and landscapes - loved Siracusa but apart from a very small Noto, Modica and Ragusa the rest had the smell of the mafia. Too much ridiculous development and people that were very defensive or aggressive in their behaviour.
Costa Smeralda is somewhere that ideally we would avoid but it is some of the most beautiful coastline around. Had the pleasure of staying at a very cheap villa complex 100 yards from the beach - strange really as the villas around were 10 million euros plus to buy - the owner of Bayern Munich lived next door - we paid 400 euros a week. Hotel Cala Di Volpi - 2 miles away can be 1000 euro a night.
Sardinia will always have a very very warm place in our hearts - never forget having a cash machine eat my card in Alghero and eventually having a crowd of locals trying to help.
Have you tried the islands of the Ionian - Lefkas, Ithaca? etc - sailed round there in May - similar scenery and very warm people. We couldn't get anything done for talking to everyone. Very difficult to get to using low cost airlines.
Had a similar experience in Elba but its much smaller.
Built up far too high and let down far to low! In theory this should have been our dream destination food, architecture and landscapes - loved Siracusa but apart from a very small Noto, Modica and Ragusa the rest had the smell of the mafia. Too much ridiculous development and people that were very defensive or aggressive in their behaviour.
Costa Smeralda is somewhere that ideally we would avoid but it is some of the most beautiful coastline around. Had the pleasure of staying at a very cheap villa complex 100 yards from the beach - strange really as the villas around were 10 million euros plus to buy - the owner of Bayern Munich lived next door - we paid 400 euros a week. Hotel Cala Di Volpi - 2 miles away can be 1000 euro a night.
Sardinia will always have a very very warm place in our hearts - never forget having a cash machine eat my card in Alghero and eventually having a crowd of locals trying to help.
Have you tried the islands of the Ionian - Lefkas, Ithaca? etc - sailed round there in May - similar scenery and very warm people. We couldn't get anything done for talking to everyone. Very difficult to get to using low cost airlines.
Had a similar experience in Elba but its much smaller.
Nov 12th, 2009, 01:09 PM
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BTW to most of our US posters you will see opening posts with Venice, Amalfi, SML etc - very few make it to Sardinia - we have seen an aweful lot of the Mediterranean - miss out on Sardinia and you miss the best it has to offer in terms of stunning coastal landscapes.
Nov 17th, 2009, 07:16 AM
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We have been four times in 6 years - have stayed twice in Conca Verde just outside Santa Teresa, once on Cala di Volpe and once in Santa Margherita on the south coast.
We have just returned from Sicily and it is an island of contrasts - some of it you have and some you love. We have yet to find anything we do not love about Sardinia. It is spotlessly clean, the food is great and the people are the friendliest in Italy (Turin is a close second).
We love the coast - in all our travels around 5 continents we have only travelled once and not spent time on the coast - Sardinia rates in our top 3 destination with South Carolina and The Bahamas.
We stayed on a small holiday complex on Cala Di Volpe - it's the only cheap place on this coast - next door the hotels are 2000 euros a night. The beach of Capriccioli is the best in Europe - throw a few reefs, dolphins and sharks in and it would be the best in the world. Shame about the billionaire influence very tacky but easy to avoid out of season.
I am trying to plan a sailing trip for next July based in Portisco but most of the best deals are offered at the last minute - may just book the flights and then wait.
Our favourite off the road place are the disused silver mines at Ingurtosu and the incredible sand dune beaches down the road. Fell on them at sunset and went for a swim - magical!
Also loved the ruins at Thoros.
All in all the best undiscovered (relatively) corner of Europe - you can keep Sicily as far as I am concerned.
We have just returned from Sicily and it is an island of contrasts - some of it you have and some you love. We have yet to find anything we do not love about Sardinia. It is spotlessly clean, the food is great and the people are the friendliest in Italy (Turin is a close second).
We love the coast - in all our travels around 5 continents we have only travelled once and not spent time on the coast - Sardinia rates in our top 3 destination with South Carolina and The Bahamas.
We stayed on a small holiday complex on Cala Di Volpe - it's the only cheap place on this coast - next door the hotels are 2000 euros a night. The beach of Capriccioli is the best in Europe - throw a few reefs, dolphins and sharks in and it would be the best in the world. Shame about the billionaire influence very tacky but easy to avoid out of season.
I am trying to plan a sailing trip for next July based in Portisco but most of the best deals are offered at the last minute - may just book the flights and then wait.
Our favourite off the road place are the disused silver mines at Ingurtosu and the incredible sand dune beaches down the road. Fell on them at sunset and went for a swim - magical!
Also loved the ruins at Thoros.
All in all the best undiscovered (relatively) corner of Europe - you can keep Sicily as far as I am concerned.
Feb 19th, 2010, 01:03 AM
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"BTW to most of our US posters you will see opening posts with Venice, Amalfi, SML etc - very few make it to Sardinia - we have seen an aweful lot of the Mediterranean - miss out on Sardinia and you miss the best it has to offer in terms of stunning coastal landscapes."
We agree completely. 20 years ago we cycled toured the whole S of Italy, Sardinia, Sicily and I also worked in Italy. We now live full-time in Sardinia, in the most remote and unspoilt province, Ogliastra, the E coast. I actually joined the forum when, on vacation in the US, we picked up a Fodor's guide and found it omitted Sardinia!
The tourism web site for where we live (in English) is http://www.turismo.ogliastra.it/English/ Good sailing -
Recent visitors from the US reckoned the coast here was better than Big Sur.
cheers Peter
We agree completely. 20 years ago we cycled toured the whole S of Italy, Sardinia, Sicily and I also worked in Italy. We now live full-time in Sardinia, in the most remote and unspoilt province, Ogliastra, the E coast. I actually joined the forum when, on vacation in the US, we picked up a Fodor's guide and found it omitted Sardinia!
The tourism web site for where we live (in English) is http://www.turismo.ogliastra.it/English/ Good sailing -
Recent visitors from the US reckoned the coast here was better than Big Sur.cheers Peter
Mar 26th, 2010, 01:51 PM
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Doesn't anyone around here mention Golfo Aranci in Sardegna? I go there every year and I think it's great. You have to be there during the feast of Our Lady of Carmine, on August 15. It's one of the best feasts I've ever attended.
Mar 26th, 2010, 02:31 PM
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