> maybe be travelling solo in Sarajevo, so interested in comments about safety

I was in Sarajevo by myself (solo female traveler) in 2009 and felt no concerns about safety - the ABCs of safety (be aware of your surroundings, etc.) seemed sufficient.

> whether there are good guides (English speaking) to hire

I found most of Sarajevo very easy to visit on one's own. To visit the Tunel, I joined a tour group run by the Tourist Information office. I thought it was extremely well done.

I hope you enjoy Sarajevo as much as I did!

We have only driven between Sarajevo and Split so I have no experience with the public transit options.
I know there are buses, and trains leave from Ploce farther south on the coast. We did take the train part of the way, between Sarajevo and Mostar, in early October. It was very basic and very cheap. If you have any interest in trains (my husband does) the engineering involved is quite impressive--many, many tunnels.
The scenery between the coast and Sarajevo is spectacular

If you have enough time, you might want to consider stopping overnight in Mostar which is a beautiful city and very easy to navigate.

I have traveled twice to Sarajevo and consider it a very safe city. Much of what you will want to see is in a compact area. The exception would be the Tunnel museum mentioned in the last post. Taxis are inexpensive and the trams are easy to use.

I don't know about guides or formal tours. Many people speak good English and most of the signs in museums are translated in English.

I wrote a long trip report after our first visit in 2010 and would be glad to answer any questions.

Thanks for the responses. VVTraveler yes your trip report is on my to read list
I'm finding flights to be complicated and have to route via zagreb etc. Dubrovnik Travels quoted me an astronomical rate of 350 euros for a one way private taxi with a stop over in Mostar.
What are the popular group tour companies over in Split..I think emailing them may be better

If your time permits, you can take a train from Sarajevo to Mostar (which is worth an overnight stay IMHO), then a bus to Split or Dubrovnik. The scenery is stunning. I thought it well worth the time. No need for a travel guide in any of these locations unless that's what you prefer.

I am sorry, I don't know the names of tour companies. There are many groups in Mostar during the day. You might be able to save money by taking a bus day tour there but arranging to leave it and travel on from Mostar to Sarajevo by yourself.

Staying overnight in Mostar is a good idea--it is cooler and less crowded then than during the middle of the day. We stayed at a beautiful small hotel which is also a national monument, the Muslibegovic House
http://www.muslibegovichouse.com/
and ate at the restaurant Taurus. I would recommend both.