maitaitom

After reading posts and looking at numerous websites, I have narrowed down our 2005 Umbrian base to these two properties. I'm leaning toward the Bocci, but a few posts have been rather disparaging of Spello.

I would appreciate comments from those who have stayed at either or both of these hotels. We are flying into Rome and then immediately driving to Umbria as our first stop for the first few nights of our three week trip.

The four of us traveling went to Italy in 2001 and had a blast (and didn't kill each other). I pretty much coordinate the entire trip (that's how they and I like it...fortunately). It doesn't look like we could go wrong with either place, but I would appreciate comments before I make the final decision.

I guess the reason I'm leaning toward the Bocci (in addition to all the positive comments) is that there would be a few more dining choices in Spello than outside of town. However, after a long day of scouting different towns (hey, I need info for another long-winded trip report), lounging by the pool with a book and glass of wine sounds pretty good.

Eloise

I stayed at the Palazzo Bocci in Spello, but only for three days. The hotel is beautifully appointed, and many of the rooms have lovely views over the Umbrian countryside.

Personally, I loved Spello: It's a tiny jewel almost untouched by time. There's a tiny, not very exciting museum, and a lovely Pinturicchio chapel in the main church, just across from the Palazzo Bocci.

The two restaurants in Spello that I liked were Il Mulino, which I think belongs to the Palazzo Bocci, and La Cantina (I think; it's across the street from the Palazzo Bocci and up a few steps; rather unobtrusive signage). If you're more into nouveau and fusion type cuisine, La Bastiglia, a hotel at the very top of Spello, gets good reviews from foodies. There are quite a few other restaurants in Spello that I didn't try.

If you can, drive to Bevagna and Montefalco, both also very medieval and atmospheric. In Montefalco, the Cuccuru (or some such name; down a street or two from the main piazza at the top of the village) is wonderful; my best meal that year in Italy. And they make a wonderful red wine in Montefalco called Sagrantino di Montefalco.

maitaitom

Eloise:

Thanks so much for the feedback.

I went to my favorite place on the internet and Googled "Montefalco Restaurants."

Sure enough, up popped Coccorone. It gets rave reviews on Slow travel ("good grilled meats&quot. Thanks again.

Eloise

I'm sure their grilled meats are very good as well. I had crespelle (crisp crèpes) filled with asparagus and cheese, a steak with Sagrantino sauce, a green vegetable -- probably spinach --al'olio e limone and for dessert -- because by then it was all I could manage -- fresh pineapple. I had a half liter of the house wine, which I am almost sure was a Sagrantino. But do order a Sagrantino if you want to be absolutely sure!

maitaitom

"But do order a Sagrantino if you want to be absolutely sure! "

It's already on my list.

bobthenavigator

Hello Tom, You always seem to ask questions about places I like. I have stayed at the former and have visited the latter--very different places. It is the classic question--serene countryside versus in-town convenience. We did enjoy one dinner with the family at Ancillotti--very good but a bit pricey. Only the son speaks very good English. But, I too like Spello and it makes a very good centro base location. Your call Tom--it is a question of style.

maitaitom

"You always seem to ask questions about places I like."

Hi Bob. I'm glad I do. If either of these is as good as your Strella d'Italia call last year, I'd be very happy. I had found Palazzo Bocci on line and read reviews here. It was on one of those that I saw your post regarding Ancillotti. It, too, looked great.

I think we're going to opt for the Palazzo Bocci to begin our trip. We'll also be staying in Southern Tuscany (4 days in San Quirico d'Orcia area. probably), 4 days in Siena or Chianti or combo), 3 days Florence, 3 days Venice and 4 days Rome (six or seven bases in 21 days). I think we'll stay in countryside near Chianti, but we love Palazzo Ravizza in Siena, so might stop for a couple of nights there, too.

We are going to move a little slower this trip than we did in 2001, but the four of us love to explore new areas, so we will be on the go a lot. Since we are from California, driving is not stressful, and we are looking forward to some of the beautiful scenic Tuscan and Umbrian scenery along the way (beats LA. traffic, eh).

We can always relax in the late afternoon and evening with our favorite WOR (Wine of the Region). Thanks for all the info you put out on this board. Your insight is appreciated by many.

maitaitom

"Strella d'Italia"

or STELLA d'Italia.