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Trip Report Salt and Pepper in Serenissima

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The following was cut and pasted from cigalchanta's Thin in Venice:

We stayed in San Polo next to the San Stae vaporetto stop.

The only place we found peace and quiet was the area around Madonna dell' Orto and the area between Fondamente Case Nuove and Arsenale.

All other areas were packed with tourists.

The Zatere wasn't so bad because it is a very wide walkway and you could pass by without getting hit with a shopping bag or camera.

I was hit at least 6 times in the face by morons swinging around with their cameras w/telephoto lens. Idiots. They don't care, they just want their stupid photo--people photographing dead pigeons in St. Marks's Square. Why?

We had many, many delicious and refreshing Aperol spritzes whilst in Venice. Our favourite place to go for these was Paradiso in the Biennale Gardens.

Our best meals were at >A Beccaficco< in Campo San Stefano. Very Expensive, but brilliant food. We dined here on two occassions and would have come back more often if not for the expense. Lunch for two ran us 160 euros.

We also liked the pizza at Ae Oche on the Zattere. This place is popular and it is hard to find a table outside with an umbrella to keep the sun off. We only ate here once because all of the available tables were in the sun.

We can also recommend Pizza Alvise on the Fondamente Nuovo near the boat stop to Burano-Murano. The Caprese salads we had here were fresh and delicious--the tomatoes tasted like they just came from the garden.

We had cichetti at All' Arca near the Rialto Market. This bar is opposite the famous Do Mori. There was no place to sit at Do Mori so we went to All' Arca instead. We had our spritzes and some sort of shaved beef on bread. It was very good.

Many times we wouldn't eat a meal in a restaurant, we would just go to Billa and buy takeaway salads and sandwiches and eat them on a bench in Campo San Giacomo, our favourite spot in Venice.

Or sometimes we would just eat some gelato whilst walking around the city.

We found these elliptical-shaped cookies with raisins that we adored and would sometimes just have Cafe Americanos (you have to DEMAND milk for you coffee unless you order the correct one--I think it is Cafe Macchiato but you know I do as I please so would order Cafe Americano with milk) and these cookies at a coffee bar.

Our favoutie church was the Frari. There is a monk's choir here with intricate carvings you must see to believe. In every nook and cranny there a little hand-carved surprise.

We visited the Peggy Guggenheim collection. The place was filled with horrid Americans making ridiculous comments about art. Why to stupid people go to art museums?

One woman loudly proclaimed to her deer-in-the-headlights husband, "That's a Chagall. He always puts these weird things in the middle of his pictures." They looked at the Chagall for 10 seconds and walked away.

The painting in question had a tree depicted at the center of it. How is that weird?

We LOVED the Joseph Cornell boxes. Couldn't take our eyes off of them.

We also visited the Accademia, the Church of SS Giovanni e Paolo, Santa Maria dell Salute (for Tintoretto's Wedding at Cana), and the Scuola of St. Rocco.

We went to Padova on the train to see the Scrovegni Chapel. You would have thought we went to see the Pope the hoops we had to jump through to get inside that chapel--advance reservations, a lecture from some old coot with bad breath, someone telling us that if we were late at the door to the chapel we couldn't go in (which is all a lie because a woman running the film on the Giotto frescoes let late-comers into her little air-tight chamber). It was all nonsense for 15 minutes with the Giottos.

Glorious Giottos, but nonsensical bureaucracy.

Padova had lots of nice shops and seemed very up-market. It was a very pleasant town.

Well, that is about it. A nice trip, but if I had to go to Venice again it would be OFF SEASON.

John & Keith

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