Sounds like an amazing trip, janis. Looking forward to hearing the details!

yeah me, too will keep a look out for report

Short & to the point. Best trip report ever!

Great trip I am sure and anxious to hear everything.

Looking forward to the report...

Gadzooks! Your trip sure beats the hop-on/hop-off bus!

I think I'm always affected worse by the return trip west. It takes several days before I'm back to normal. At first I'll be exhausted at 4:00 p.m. and wide awake at 2:00 a.m.

Eagerly awaiting your trip report!

Ditto from me; I look forward to hearing more and like what I've already read.

Flying back west from Europe kills me. I'm mostly in bed the next day.

Took my sister's ashes to Greece. It was a disaster, and it sounds like your trip was better than mine.

Janis....I was at a cocktail party with Joan Collins yesterday and she kept gushing all about meeting a famous California chick named Janis something-or-other. If I had only known.

Waiting for the rest of your report..great title..a grabber.
stu

Sounds like a fab trip. Looking forward to all the details.

jj - we'll wait til you recover to find out all the details.

Get well soon--so you can get cracking on your TR for us all! Seriously, rest up.

Nice, Stu!

I'm looking forward to the rest of the report, janisj. Hope you get some rest first!

Lee Ann

I'm also anixously awaiting your trip report.

Add me to the "can't wait" list!

janisj - along with the others, I'm also in the "can't wait" list, you seem to have had some great fun unusual adventures on your trip.

I'm in. Can't wait!

Same here. Can't wait to read all about it !

In!

I agree flying west is worse than flying east tuscan.

Janisj, can't wait to hear more.

Please give us an outline of where you went.

Me too waiting for your Report.

Yes flying west if worse because you keep putting the clock back and back and back..and.....

Just checking in -- don't want to miss the report! Four weeks -- how great.

You certainly had some 'mixed' weather whilst over here!
I too am looking forward to your report, especially the Dales bit. But I want loads about La Collins too (and her handsome husband if he was there)- is she REALLY that good for her age close up etc etc.......

jj

Rest up, we want details!

Can you top your Cotswolds trip?

Hi all . . back among the living but need to put my notes together. Have not one but two weddings plus the first two days of the US Open this week plus trying to calm a most upset cat after being boarded plus yadda yadda yadda . . .

"Please give us an outline of where you went."

Here is the readers Digest version:

Edinburgh one night (just for recovery and to meet up w/ my brother who flew in separately)

Kinlochard (near Aberfoyle/Lake of Menteith). After 3 nights, dumped brother at Dunblane to catch train to London to fly out.

Two nights staying at Traquair House. Let me tell you -- having a whole castle to oneself is SUPER cool Plus a surprise visit from a fodorite & hubby

Two nights in Carsethorn south of Dumfries/New Abbey

A drive along Hadrian's Wall to two nights in Rothbury (where a flat tyre ate substantially into my mad money)

Three nights in Aysgarth (and that hairy bike ride). Morgana: - you are right, the Yorke Arms is wonderful.

Then I dropped the car at Leeds/Bradford and flew to Jersey for three nights. Was upgraded from the small, non-water view single I booked to a wonderful king sized full water view double!!

Then flew up to London for the last week and the Jubilee. Stayed at B&B Belgravia because I couldn't find a flat for my dates. It was great.

"You certainly had some 'mixed' weather whilst over here! "

Ya think?! 6.5C raining buckets, 3 days later 28C and sweating bullets, Fogged in on Jersey, then the rain on Jubilee Pageant Sunday.

"Can you top your Cotswolds trip?"

ttt

Lovely holiday janisj!!

Ooh, sounds lovely!! *tapping my foot, waiting impatiently*

I'll get on it tomorrow morning - promise

Now, now, Janisj. Do you really have to keep us all in suspense like this until morning? We are at the edge of out seats to hear more.

janisj:

Looking forward to more.

Sandy

Sorry for the delay . . . 'stuff' happens

Background

My Mom passed away in December at age 87 (Dad died back in 2006). They were native Californians but both came from predominantly Scottish ancestry, plus some English, and a Finn thrown in just to confuse things. They met attending a rural 2 room school when mom was in kindergarten and Dad was in 2nd grade and except when Dad was in France and Belguim during the War, they were together almost every day for 77 years until Dad died.

When I lived in the UK, Mom & Dad visited often for up to 6 weeks at a time and toured w/ my ex and me and on their own. They enjoyed England but loved LOVED LOVED Scotland. They had very special feelings for the Lake of Menteith (Mom was a Graham) and stayed there probably 8 times back when the Lake Hotel was a simple, family run place. They became friends w/ the owners. In later years they stayed many times (for a week each time) at Forrest Hills which is a hotel and timeshare resort on Loch Ard up the road from Aberfoyle.

When deciding about Mom's services/memorials/etc my brother (he lives in eastern Europe) and I decided to to take some of both their remains to scatter in the Lake of Menteith in May (both had May birthdays).

So that was the beginning of things. He would only had 5 free days and has never been to Scotland, while I basically had unlimited time. So the plan developed to meet up in Edinburgh for one night, head out to Forrest Hills for 3 nights. Bro would train down to London and fly home and I would head out on a meandering journey to places I love and few new ones.

EDINBURGH

May 15/16 I flew AMF > DFW > LHR BA code share on AA and LHR > EDI on BA. Got all three boarding passes at SMF. Caught some fitful sleep DFW > LHR and made the T-3 to T-5 transfer w/ no problems/hassles at all. The walk was the long bit - immigration took all of 45 seconds.

At the VERY last minute (like when SuperShuttle was pulling into my driveway) I decided to take gloves and the zip out liner to my jacket. BOY - am I glad I did - 7C and raining when I landed at EDI!!

Travelodge has a brand new location on Queen St across from the Gardens and because I booked before they were open for business, I got one of those £19 deals PQ is always on about. (Bro booked several weeks later and got a £35 rate - still very cheap for Edinburgh). What can one say -it is a TL and NO frills. But being brand new it was amazingly clean.

I've been to Edinburgh many times and love the place. But for me this was just a 'sleep off' the jet lag stop and I really did nothing in the city except take a walk, look at the construction on Princes street, buy a road atlas, have dinner and crash for the night. After we ate dinner Bro went out and explored and took tons of photos.

May 17 - Falkirk Wheel, Stirling, Forest Hills

We checked out and took a cab out to EDI to collect the car. Were going to hike to the airbus stop but it was cold and raining off and on so we said heck w/ it and hailed a cab. AutoEurope booked us w/ Hertz and we got a Vauxhall (can't remember the model name) w/ 800 miles on it. (It would have over 2000 when I turned it in)at Leeds.

First Stop the Falkirk Wheel. What an amazing thing. We took the boat tour to the upper canal. Even being a cold/rainy day there were lots of folks there and also 2 other boats (besides the tour boat) traversed it while we were there.

http://www.thefalkirkwheel.co.uk/

Then on to Stirling. Colder/rainier. Not sure if having the outside temps show on the dash is such a good thing. How can you pretend you are on summer vacation when the blasted thing shows 9C???

I know my way around Stirling and found Mar Place (the approach road to the castle car park) no problem. But THEN there was a problem. This is a very narrow two way rd and it was bumper to bumper / stopped / chockablock. (Where do all these people come from on a cold rainy Thurs. afternoon??) Just as we got past the point of no return, down comes a car park attendant to put out a "Carpark full" sign - right behind our car We were stuck - couldn't go forward and there was no way to turn around. So we sat, and sat, and sat. Inching forward when ever a car left the car park. 40 minutes/200 yards later we pulled into a parking bay.

The castle is amazing of course. I've been many times but there is always something new to see. I knew Bro would want to explore every nook and cranny so we to meet up in 2 hours. I mainly concentrated on the Palace -- Great Hall, the Heads, Kitchens etc. the indoors stuff because it really was miserably cold/wet. Then tried to get into the cafe - 30 minute wait!. So back to explore and tried the cafe again an hour later. No wait at all . . . But they had completely sold out of everything except a couple of slices of cake and one bowl of carrot ginger soup. So that was my lunch. The girl said they were caught completely off guard w/ so many customers.

Eventually met up w/ Bro - he loved the place but was soaked to the skin. And I had the last bowl of soup so he couldn't even warm up that way.

http://www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk/

We had considered hitting Doune - but we were cold, wet, and hungry so decided to go straight to Forest Hills. This is a very nice MacDonald property but not as posh as say Cameron House. I've stayed there several times (time share trades) - but never in one of the smaller, 2bdrm units so wasn't sure exactly what to expect. Not to worry! paid £140 a night and for that we got: A two story, 2 (large) bedroom, large balcony over looking the loch, large kitchen w/ dishwasher and full sized fridge/freezer . . . and three full baths including a SAUNA and jacuzzi tub!! Let me tell you, having a sauna after a long cold day heals everything.

We had planned on stopping in Aberfoyle to pick up breakfast foods and basic provisions. But instead we went straight 'home' and had dinner in the clubhouse. It was still cold but had stopped raining so Bro went out for a long walk - while I hung around the bar and had a couple of drinks - then back to the unit for that sauna.

unpacked, fell into bed and slept like a baby.

Next: Lake of Menteith, wonderful memories, Inchmahome Priory

oops: >>May 15/16 I flew SMF . . .<<

oops: >>May 15/16 I flew SMF . . .<<

I caught that. A and S are adjacent on the QWERTY keyboard. On with the story!

The first time I saw a photo of the Falkirk Wheel, I thought it was a photoshop prank. Amazing.

Wonderful! The Stirling Castle link is amusing. More please!

Great!

I spend 6 years in this silly place, deregister and have 2 months peace and quiet. It rains all today and I get bored, only to poke around and find that Janis has been to Carsethorn. Time to register again..

Janis if you spent two nights there I only hope that you didn't have huge portions of Scampi each night at the Steam Boat Inn, as I did on Sunday. I also hope you managed to see the Basking sharks which have been around recently.

Looking forward to the D&G report. Few make it to us, which makes it all the more special.

belted_Galloway: Not only did I eat two nights at the Steamboat . . . They rescued my ass when I checked out of the B&B. I opened my wallet early in the morning only to discover I had a LOT less £££ than I thought. The owner rang up the Steamboat's owner and we met her at the pub and I charged a 'fake' £70 meal and gave me the cash to pay my tab at the B&B

Just got back to my room from the 2nd day of Open and am too beat to go out this evening so will work on the TR some tonight.

Lake of Menteith, wonderful memories, Inchmahome Priory

This first part of the trip and especially today was really mostly about Mom & Dad plus showing my brother some of the places they loved so much.

We got up bright and early. Well early anyway, it was dark/overcast/cold and threatening rain. The folks at the Menteith Fisheries (they own the fish and all the small boats that anglers use) had been wonderful to work w/. They set us up w/ a boat and helmsman and we spent about 45 minutes out on the lake scattering mom and dad's remains and sailing along the shore. After tying up on shore we walked next door to the dock for the Inchmahome ferry. We went out to the island and spent maybe 90 minutes exploring and Bro took just scads of photos. This is probably my very favorite picnic place - but it sure wasn't picnic weather! But we were lucky -cold/cloudy to be sure, but the rain held off pretty much all day.

We took the launch/ferry back to shore and walked to the Lake Hotel (all 3 of these places Fishing lodge, gov't launch, and hotel are essentially next door to each other) and had a wonderful lunch in the glass walled restaurant looking out across the lake to the Island/Priory, a lake full of fishermen, and the usual swans at the bottom of the garden.

http://tinyurl.com/7nksvwy
http://www.lake-hotel.com/home.aspx

It was now mid afternoon and was beginning to look more like rain so instead of going to Doune or other sightseeing, we headed over to Callander so Bro could shop for some gifts to take to his girlfriend. He bought a couple of cashmere sweaters and a scarf - my favorite jewelery shop has closed so I had total sales resistance and didn't buy anything except some basic provisions from the co-op.

Then we drove the slow/scenic/gorgeous 'Duke's Road' up and over and through the park past lochs Katrine, Achray and Venachar, and back to Forest Hills. Dinner again in the clubhouse - a couple of single malts and back 'home' for a sauna.

Next: Saturday - Crieff, Loch Earn, Falls of Dochart, Glencoe, Kilchurn Castle

Thanks for getting on with the TR! I am really enjoying it and hoping that you will get some nicer weather!

What a lovely thing to do for your folks.

Janis

Sorry to hear about the loss of your Mother, I have always warmed to the idea of the scattering of ashes in a special place. Menteith isn't an area I have visited but it looks lovely. It is comical how the English Lake District make such a big deal of their one Osprey when we have dozens of pairs. We have totally neglected our back hard ver the years and I feel a round trip to Arran, Oban and Edinburgh coming on. the hotel on the Lake looks like a perfect stay.

Your experience at The Steamboat sums up D&G, we are still in the 1950s.

Last week a local pub owner was defrauded by the car trick where a proported regular rings the pub and pleads to be picked up in the middlle of nowhere as the RAC will not mend their car until they are paid. the pub owner sends £300 in a taxi, the money and the regular (impersonator) are never seen again.

That is generally how helpfully naive we are!

Or should that be naively helpful?

Janisj,

Great trip report. An emotional trip for you but hopefully one that brought you fond memories.

I am following all this is my usual quiet manner

Enjoying it all, thanks for sharing your experience with us.

It must have been a touching moment to scatter your parents ashes in their home country.

Saturday - Crieff, Loch Earn, Falls of Dochart, Glencoe, Kilchurn Castle

Today was again cold/threatening but we had planned a long, day. As I mentioned, Bro has never been to Scotland and I wanted to squeeze in as much scenery/sites as possible w/o running ourselves ragged. He had about $4000 worth of camera equipment w/ him and he really wanted to see a lot.

We started out first driving over to Dunblane to collect his pre-purchased train ticket to Edinburgh/London for Sunday afternoon (good thing we did too - since the station was closed when we arrived on Sunday and he would have been SOL )

After Dunblane we drove up to Crieff. My Mom collected Perthshire paperweights and even though they stopped production several years ago, I figured there would still be some at the visitors center. Come to find out, the master glass man who made several of Mom's signed weights had continued making them from his own studio - and just recently retired. So I ended up buying one of the last of his work. That made me both very happy -- and sad that an amazing craft is disappearing.

http://tinyurl.com/6matmqr

(we would have stopped at Drummond Castle Gardens,but it doesn't open until 1PM and we were hours too early.)

We drove through Comrie and along the beautiful road to and beside Loch Earn. Several photo stops along the way but basically we pressed on

From Lochearnhead, we drove up to Killin/Falls of Dochart - those of you who have been to Killin know it is MUCH more than a 10 minute photo op. And w/ all the rain recently, the Falls were REALLY a torrent.

http://tinyurl.com/724qw7x

We spent probably and hour walking up and down and across the river and then pulled ourselves awayfor the drive up to Glencoe.

Stops to photograph Rannoch Moor, and several stops in the glen. I know the new Glencoe visitors centre (not that new anymore) is green/ecologically better/let the site of the original centre restore . . . But I really did prefer the old one. The views were magnificent, whereas the new bldg is sort of secluded in the trees. Never mind - Glencoe is a 'must' IMO and Bro definitely agrees.

We had a very good late-ish lunch at the Clachaig Inn - I had venison casserole, not sure what Bro had but he LOVED whatever it was.

Then we headed south along Loch Linnhe, past Castle Stalker, along Loch Etive and stopped at Kilchurn Castle, which is one of my (and Mom/Dad's) favorites.

http://tinyurl.com/773fm7h

Then back to Forest Hills - weren't really hungry so we put together a light supper of tinned soup and baked jacket potatoes.

Next: Doune, into the Borders, Traquair House and a Fodorite surprise

ttt

Thank you for sharing, following along.

oops-- Blew that one. here is a link to images of Kilchurn.

http://tinyurl.com/76rfcbw

Ok- that's weird. When I clicked on the tinyurl link in my post, it displayed just google search results for Kilchurn castle so I re-did it for the images. Now the first link shows the photos too????

What wonderful photos. Having stayed a couple of times at Lochearnhead and visiting all the places you did, I am now well and truly hooked. Can't wait for more.

I have always thought Loch Earn was a hidden gem, often overlooked. And Kilchurn Castle is also a favourite of mine.

Rosemary

Doune, into the Borders, Traquair House and a Fodorite surprise

We got up early Sunday - finally a nice day! It has been cool/cold/drippy - even light snow on the peaks around Glencoe. But today it is clear and getting warm. In fact the weather forecasts predict 25-28C over the next few days. So folks --- when we say the weather is 'changeable' we ain't whistling Dixie

We packed up and checked out of Forest Hills - they charge electricity separately and all those jacuzzi baths and saunas sure DID add up - but totally worth it.

First we made a short stop in Aberfoyle at the Wool Centre, mostly to see if there were any sheepdogs working. This place used to be worth at least a short stop -- to see some of the crafts and the dogs and some decent shoppin. But the clothing and 'stuff' they stock now is pretty schlocky, and it can safely be missed.

Then it was off to Doune. Doune is a really neat little castle even if didn't have Monty Python/Holy Grail connections. Lots of clambering/climbing throughout. One side is now cordoned off - not sure if it is being restored or is permanently off limits for safety reasons.

I've been there several times over the years so while Bro hit every nook and cranny, I spent part of the time just sitting on one of the benches in the courtyard basking in the glorious sunshine. One group of maybe 7 or 8 friends were duplicating scenes from the movie and they brought out the coconut halves and galloped through the courtyard. It was absolutely hysterical.

http://tinyurl.com/7kwoz9w

We drove over to Dunblane to drop Bro - he would catch the train to Edinburgh and on to London. He flies out of LHR the next morning.

I am now off on the solo bits of my journey. First stop Traquair House (actually the first stop was to be Rosslyn Chapel. But when I arrived there was an almost full car park and two tour buses - and I decided to press on. Thank heavens I visited the Chapel a couple of times back in the days before Dan Brown. Once my Mom/Dad/me were the only people in the place, another time just my girlfriend/and me and one other person.)

I have visited Traquair House 5 or 6 times starting way back in the late 70's. Ever since they started renting out 3 rooms in the castle, I've wanted to stay there - never seriously looked into it, just assumed it would be expensive. Come to find out --not really. £100 single occupancy, £180 double. If you want a special experience -- stay at Traquair House!

When I rang up a few months ago, they asked which room I wanted and I left it up to them. "We have two 18th century rooms which are very nice, but really I think you'll enjoy the Pink (old) Room room more" tee hee -- I'm staying in the OLD room at Traquair House!!

I essentially had a wing to myself (actually the whole house to myself since there were no other guests for the 2 nights) Up the main spiral staircase to my LARGE room looking out over the maze and back garden, half tester bed, walk in closet, private hallway, and large bath.

Plus a key to the front door, and keys to another wing where a sitting room is the residents lounge after the House closes to visitors. This was soooooo neat.

During the day you have free run in all the public rooms (but they are locked up at night). But otherwise you can go anywhere the gardens/grounds/sitting room/breakfast room (TERRIFIC breakfasts BTW). W/ that big key to the front door --you feel like you own the place.

I had been in for maybe an hour and was deciding where to go for dinner, when the housekeeper came to my door to ask if I was expecting guests. There were two people at the front gates who claimed they know me.

It was noellev13 and Mr. noellev13. They just happened to be in the Borders the same two days I was there (part of a longer trip mostly to Skye and the NW). A remarkable coincidence - - and now I am receiving guests at Traquair House!! If I didn't feel like a duchess before . . .

A super nice couple - we had a lovely visit in the posh sitting room until they had to dash - they still needed to find a place to stay that night. A mini-GTG in the Borders!

http://www.traquair.co.uk/

Next: Smailholm Tower, Mellerstain, Dryburgh

I think they have permanently closed that section of Duone, as it was closed off when we visited in 2008. Either that, or the renovations are taking a very long time

Duchess Janis! Looking forward to reading the rest.

9C - I felt the same way in June 2008. But it was 4C, according to the car temperature guage. Of course, this was in Orkney. But it was June!

Smailholm Tower, Mellerstain, Dryburgh

Monday: I was planning to drive east and do some walking on St Abbs Head, and things looked promising. It was cool but bright and sunny and it should be gorgeous on the coast. After a very good cooked breakfast I head out about 9:30 . . . and the farther east I go, the foggier it gets. I'd only got as far as Galashiels and it is a real pea soup murk. Major change of plans in order. So I decide to do Mellerstain (which has been closed the previous two times I tried to visit). But it is too early because the gardens/grounds don't open until 11:30 and the house at 12:30.

So a cross country jaunt on REALLY narrow single tracks brings me to Smailhome Tower. This is a small peel tower castle sitting on the top of rock outcroppings. The views are just amazing -- but this time the fog sorta took care of that. But it is still really interesting. The last time I visited, there was some construction/reorganization being done so you couldn't see everything. Now the whole laird's residence was accessible. But the first problem was getting up to the entrance. From teh car park it is a nearly vertical walk upthe hill -- and between the deep/soaking wet grass and thick mud it was a really difficult slog. I essentially ended up crawling part of the way.

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/stboswells/smailholmtower/index.html

After about an hour it is off to Mellerstain. The house isn't open yet but the cafe is so tea and a pastry hit the spot. This houseis drop dead GORGEOUS! Designed initially by William Adam but mainly by his son Robert. The Adam interiors even top what is at Culzean. One unbelievable room after another. Years ago I used to buy the guide/picture books at every castle/stately home/castle but eventually I realized they mostly just fill up my suitcase and then gather dust so I stopped. But I just had to get the Mellerstain book.

After touring the house and gardens, I stopped back in the cafe for soup/tea.

http://www.mellerstain.com/

My family loved all the Border Abbeys and I really wanted to return to at least one . . . partly for me and partly for Mom and Dad. decided if it was to be only one it would HAVE to be Dryburgh. I stayed there for more than an hour - mostly just sitting and absorbing the vibe. It is such a peaceful place. While I was there, a family went into the chapter house and sang a couple of hymns - was really lovely and gave me chills.

http://tinyurl.com/6skch6l

Drove into Innerleithen and had an early pub dinner - then back 'home' to Traquair House and a nightcap in the sitting room.

Next morning after a BIG breakfast including smoked salmon, local sausages, eggs, all the trimmings, I reluctantly checked out and turned in my Duchess tiara and set out for my next port of call . . . in far SW Scotland.

Next: Grey Mare's Tail, Lockerbie, Sweetheart Abbey, Dumfries, John Paul Jones

Lovely detailed report, janis

I enjoyed your trip report. My ancestors are from Menteith. I haven't been there yet, but plan to on my next trip. We did go to Stirling and loved it, despite the rainy weather. too bad paperweights are not being made any more- my brother got some lovely ones there several years ago.

Heyyyyy!

JPJ

Can't wait.

Bout time someone else told the world.

Oh god! Janisj, I had forgotten about Mellerstain, it's worse than Culzean : more neo classical with nobbly bits on. I do wish the Adam family had stuck to the Palladio script.

I am sure that the interiors made up for the "nobbly" bits.

Grey Mare's Tail, Lockerbie, Sweetheart Abbey, Dumfries, John Paul Jones

Today will turn out flat out downright HOT - dashboard thermometer hit 28 at lunch time (all those cashmere sweaters I brought are looking fairly useless about now).

I wanted to drive pretty much directly to my next stop since I only have the two nights in Carsethorn and wanted to make the most of my short time there. I took the A708 towards Moffat and only planned one stop at the Grey Mare's Tail. But Lockerbie has been in the news for the last couple of days because Mohmed al-Megrahi died. Though maybe I ought to stop in Lockerbie to visit the memorial.

Grey Mare's Tail is one of the tallest waterfalls in the UK and was running pretty full. Now -- Yosemite Falls this ain't but its moorland setting is pretty dramatic. I walked part way up the fairly rugged trail,but to do the whole 4 or 5 km, you'd really want hiking boots.

http://www.nts.org.uk/Property/Grey-Mares-Tail-Nature-Reserve/

About an hour later I was in Lockerbie. I'd imagine that most times there are few people at the memorial, but maybe because of all the coverage the last few days, there were easily 75 or more. I didn't go inside the cottage/visitors centre - the memorial/garden is simple/low key and is really quite moving.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LapWz3iGZ48&feature=related

From there - on to Dumfries and south to Carsethorn. First stop Sweetheart Abbey in the Village of New Abbey. The Abbey is mostly red sandstone and is very pretty. The caretaker was mowing the lawn and he'd stop whenever new visitors arrived -dash into the kiosk, put on his jacket, sell the tickets/guide books, then back off w/ the jacket, back to the mower, then back to the kiosk, on w/ the jacket, repeat - luckily the Abbey wasn't all that busy, but I watched him go through this routine 6 or 7 times in the hour+ I was there.

http://tinyurl.com/7jnyxl7

Across from the Abbey is a sweet looking little cafe w/ lots of flowers and it looked like a good place for lunch. It was very hot - all the shaded outdoor tables were taken so I sat inside where it was even hotter. Ordered a bottle of water and a roast beef sandwich . . . And that is exactly what I got. A bottle of water and 2slicesof roast beef between two slices of bread. period. no butter, no mayo, no mustard, nada. But it was something so at least I wouldn't starve.

It was still only about 3:00 so I decided to bypass Carsethorn and drive south to Southerness Lighthouse. The area around the lighthouse seems to be one big holiday park -- caravans, golf courses, convenience shops, etc.

http://tinyurl.com/7b5lw8q

Then I took a REALLY narrow single track about 1/2 way between Southerness and Carsethorn to the John Paul Jones birthplace. This is a really low key 'tourist attraction'. Sort of 'we have this museum but nobody can find it'. There was one other couple there when I arrived but they soon left and the caretaker/owner/manager?? wanted to talk and talk and talk and talk. One can only show so much interest in a 2 room cottage that doesn't have the original furnishings - or much of anything else-and one room purporting to look like the cabin of the Bonhomme Richard. But I managed to stifle the giggles and let him tell me everything.

http://www.dumfriesmuseum.demon.co.uk/jpj.html

Then off to my B&B in Carsethorne. This was a trip of contrasts. 6C - 28C; Yorkshire Dales - Channel Islands; Michelin starred restaurants - roast beef on dry bread; Now,I REALLY liked the Old Shop B&B but it could not have been more different than Traquair House. The last two nights my room was the size of small 2 bdrm flat w/ large windows looking over the maze. The next two nights my single room is the size of a walk in closet And it is stuck up under the eaves so even though I'm only 5' - I could not stand up in half of it. And just a velux window so I couldn't see much.

But the bathroom was good sized w/ a deep tub, the breakfasts were terrific, and there is a beautiful garden w/ a summer house leading down to the massive beach. The owner was great (I was traveling 'off the grid' w/ no phone or laptop or satnav). She let me use her computer/printer both nights so I could get some info I needed re the Thames Jubilee pageant/security clearance. And for other visitors, the double rooms are MUCH larger (and one can stand up ). . .

http://www.theoldshop-scotland.com/Welcome.html

Walked down the road to the Steam Boat Inn and had soup and scampi and chips and beer.

Next: Threave, heatstroke (only a slight exaggeration), Rockliffe,

Good job.

Rockcliffe !

You made it to our backyard.

That was the hottest weekend in years. We got the dinghy out and sailed down to Kippford, incredible day.

The JPJ museum needs the gardens to be open at Arbigland next door. They are beautiful and were worked on by JPJs father. Unfortunately, the Blackett family money ran out and they had to sell the Ouse but retained the land. The gardens were open to the public but the purchasing owner closed them and let the property suffer.

It is back up for sale and will be on our radar when we sell our business.

http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-22562226.html

Did you make it to the RSPB at Mersehead? Lovely little place with good resident and transient bird population.

really bg - can we all come?

You live in a pretty corner of the country to be sure!

Threave, heatstroke (only a slight exaggeration), Rockliffe

After an early breakfast, I took a walk along the beach for maybe 20 mins -- OK it is about 8:30AM and I'm walking along the Solway Firth . . . in shirtsleeves and it is actually HOT. I head west to Threave Gardens and get there just as they are opening. Perfect timing. The gardens are very pretty -- but probably because of the really cold recent weather, not a lot is in bloom. Actually almost nothing was. Probably after 2 or 3 more days of this glorious weather everything will be bursting w/ colour.

I booked a 2PM tour of the House - which was my favorite part. It is a late Victorian hunting lodge and not at all like the typical stately home. Lunch was a pretty good roasted vegetable panini and white wine.

Here are images of Threave as it probably looked later in the week. http://tinyurl.com/7dgunqb

Then I drove up the road to Threave Castle. I LOVED this place- quite a walk across fields from the car park in a farm yard and then a ferry to the island in the 'other' River Dee. It was built in the 14th century by Archibald the Grim - now that is a name to live up to There were several others walking out across so I assumed there would be a crowd on the island. But everyone else was headed farther out to view the Ospreys. I was the only visitor to the castle. A couple was waiting for the ferry when I left the island - so they would have the castle to themselves too.

After close to an hour out on the island, walked out to the viewing platform. I didn't have binoculars w/ me but could still see one of the ospreys.

http://tinyurl.com/87q7fvw
http://www.nts.org.uk/threave_ospreys
http://dandgrangers.blogspot.co.uk/

I headed back through Dalbeattie and Kippford to Rockcliffe. Really just drove into Kippford, parked and looked around for a few minutes before driving on to Rockliffe.

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/dalbeattie/kippford/index.html

This is such a pretty little village w/ some gorgeous homes. Some reminded me of homes on Monterey Bay south of Santa Cruz back home. I sat for about 20 or 30 minutes on that same bench in the bottom photo.

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/dalbeattie/rockcliffe/index.html

Finally pulled myself away and drove back to Carsethorne. Sat on the deck of the B&B's summerhouse drinking the last of my complimentary Traquair Ale. Then down to the Steam Boat Inn for chicken tikka (yes I did )

Next: Lanercost Priory, Hadrian's Wall, Rothbury . . . And a bleedin' flat tyre

I am so glad that you made it to our little corner of the world and I am really warmed by the fact that someone who is so well travelled enjoyed being here. So many miss us out when on their way to somewhere else.

Threave Castle is a wonderful little place and in contrast to many of the other English sites it is very easy to see the Ospreys In the flesh.

Chicken Tikka at the Steamboat. Now this is becoming creepy. We were there on Monday. I had the scampi, my wife had Chicken Tikka. The food is average, the decor isn't but just we go to sit on a sunny day and watch the tide go in/out. At that point the Nith hits the estuary and basking sharks, porpoise, dolphins, otters turn up for lunch too.

For any other visitors, Janisj hit the right sights/sites. Just north of Threave (5 miles) is the Red Kite feeding station where it is possible to see over 100 of these beautiful birds in one small area. There is also a beautiful walk between Kippford and Rockcliffe which is well away from any road noise and ends with a stunning view of The Lakes at Castle Point.

http://www.walkscotland.plus.com/otherwalks/stew_s_area/porting/pages/17.htm

Janisj

If you do pass again try

http://www.millbraehouse.co.uk/bandb.html

Just up the hill from the beach.

Went to Lanercost last Sunday whilst test driving a new car from Carlisle. God, their cafe has improved since the last time we visited.

From you you say we must make Monterey Bay sometime. We always thought that D&G had a lot in common with Vancouver Island. Pretty but not stunning scenery with lovely people living in the 1950s.

Your previous posts have inspired me to a staycation in July. We are going up to Arran then over to Kintyre and a few nights just north of Oban. (rain : who cares)

Sorry about the silly post in relation to Culzean but neo classical knobbly is just one of my things.

"The food is average, the decor isn't"

Sort of only port in a storm, since I was staying in the village and it is the only show in town. But it wasn't at all bad - hit the spot both nights. And the folks working there could not have been nicer.

I've spent a little time in the SW but both trips were YEARS ago. Would have liked a couple more days but there were other places I needed to fit in (Alnwick, the Dales, Jersey) before hitting London Jubilee weekend so 2 days was all I had.

That photo does have the look of Monterey Bay with the homes in Pacific Grove fronting the sea. So pretty!

Lanercost Priory, Hadrian's Wall, Rothbury . . . And a bleedin' flat tyre

HOT day. As mentioned, after another wonderful breakfast, I get my purse to pay the lady . . . oops -- spent too much cash the last two days and was £20 short! OMG!! This has never happened to me before. I say I'll drive up to Dumfries or wherever the nearest cash machine is. I'm not on any sort of timetable so that would be a hassle but certainly doable. Especially since this is 100% my fault. You can see the gears turning >>Sure, I let this Yank go and I'll never see her again! << She rings up the owner of the Steamboat and asks if I can run a charge and get £££ cash. No problem -

Belted_Galloway will understand this since he knows the village and it is TINY. I could easily walk up to the pub in 3 minutes. But the landlady drives me there and stops on the way (5 doors up) to pick up the pub's owner. She wasn't about to let me loose w/ w/o cash on the barrel head (actually she was super about the whole thing - but honestly -- driving )

I only needed £20 but the pub preferred I charge £70 -the full amount I owe the B&B - probably due to visa fees. So I charge £70, receive £70 turn around and pay the landlady. High finance

I wave goodbye and head out towards Cumbria. First stop Lanercost Priory. Was there once maybe 10 years ago. Things certainly have changed-the farm next door is now a big restaurant, gift shop, visitor complex. My last visit the church of St Mary Magdalene wasn't open so this time I went inside it first. The church is attached to the priory ruins. Had a lovely visit w/ the churchwarden and he showed me the Morris and Byrne-Jones windows.

Then next door to the Priory. It dates from the 1100's and quite a bit is still standing

http://tinyurl.com/7kmgyee

After maybe 90 minutes at Lanercost I head east w/ plans for photo ops along the Wall and stopping at one or two of the forts/major sites. Mission accomplished w/ one hiccup. Got lots of good pictures and decided I'd stop at Housesteads. Lots of changes here --the seedlings screening the site from the road/carpark are now a forest. And the visitors center/shop is now down near the carpark. The car park was REALLY full so I had to park at the far end several hundred feet from the shop. This is important why? Because it is a £2 pay and display car park and the machines ONLY accept £1 and £2 coins. I have lots of change but NO £1 or £2 coins! The only way I can visit Houseteads is walk over to the shop, get some change, walk back to the car, pay/display, then walk all the way back. Screw it! It was too hot anyway

(I would have if this was my first Housestead visit)

Back in the car -- no parking charge at Vindolanda and Chesters machines take ANY coins. I spent most time at Chesters since my last visit we arrived just before closing time.

http://www.vindolanda.com/Home.htm
http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/chesters-roman-fort-and-museum-hadrians-wall/

From there I headed north to Rothbury. I'd not been before - What a nice little town! I drove into the center - I vaguely remembered the directions to the B&B but forgot to print them out. Figured I'd just 'bump' into it, but Rothbury is larger than I imagined and two loops through the center and no joy.

So I parked and went to the TIC to ask -- not a terrific feeling when the TIC doesn't know a B&B that is supposedly w/i a couple of blocks They ring up the place to ask where the heck they are. >>Oh - yes, next to the old clinic<<.He gives me pretty good directions. It is on the upper high street (runs parallel to the high street -but elevated several feet.) It is VERY narrow. While maneuvering carefully down the road avoiding opposing cars I bumped the stone kerb and a huge bang. I pulled over and saw my offside front tyre had basically exploded! Luckily I parked w/i 100 feet of the B&B. Unluckily the owner was there-the cleaning lady let me in-but had no idea what to do about the tyre. She rang up the owner who said he'd help me sort it when he returned in a few hours.

OK--it is now about 4PM and I'm a bit nervous about leaving things too. Being car less tomorrow would definitely crimp my plans. I first thought I'd change the tyre myself, but w/ the power wrenches they use now I wasn't sure I could get it off. So I hiked back down to the TIC and they rang upa local Range/Land Rover garage. I walked back up to the car and soon my hero Stuart (a huge red headed mechanic) drove up.he took off the old tyre/rim and put on the spare (thank heavens it was a full sized spare - not the dinky donuts we often get in the States. He would get me a new tyre and mount it while I'm out exploring Alnwick tomorrow.

He drives off w/my wheel/tyre and I go in to checkout my room. I LOVE this place - except my room is in the very top of the house and it is HOT. But after opening the windows it cools off tolerably w/i about 1/2 an hour. I am in Mrs Pringle's room and it is just about perfect. huge room, well furnished, big bathroom, luxurious linens, comfortable seating - plus the whole house is beautiful.

W/ the tyre drama, I'm sort of drained -- so I just walk down to the green grocer and coop and pick up fruit/sandwich/small bottle of wine -- and plain chocolate digestives. Gourmet dinner

http://www.northumberland-cam.com/rothbury/
http://www.hillcrestbandb.co.uk/Hillcrestbandb/Home.html

Next: Alnwick, Posh lunch in a Treehouse, and a king's ransom for a tyre

oops - thought I proofed better. >>Unluckily the owner was NOT there- <<

I can so relate to your Wall-sites carpark frustrations; we had similar frustrations at Birdoswald. From my 2010 TR--"After some trips back and forth from the parking lot (had to pay-and-display, had no coins, got change at the shop, DD put ticket in car, didn’t bring receipt, you get your money back if you show receipt, she went back to car for receipt) we made it in." But it was our first visit, and it was cool and rainy, so we figured it out and stayed a while. At Housesteads a bit later that day, the carpark was totally full and they parked us on the grass. (But that ended up actually being a closer walk than the carpark you had to deal with.)

Enjoying your account of adventures!

Wheel changes : I have no idea why this is happening but my last two have been horiffic. The latest was on the hard shoulder of the M6, in the rain and rush hour. The wheel of our 9 month old car would just not come off.

In the end it cost Audi as we have free cover and so I called them to change the damn thing.

I probably did have road cover -- but wasn't about to faff about w/ contacting AA or Hertz and being on their timetable.

really nice janisj - brings so many lovely memories of my holiday in Scotland, years and years ago!!!

I am so sorry about the passing away of your parents, but I am sure this vacation brought them so close to you in spirit.

Thanks for all the comments everybody!

I'll try to pick up the pace (but no guarantees - good intentions seem to fly out the window)

Alnwick, Posh lunch in a Treehouse, and a king's ransom for a tyre

Today is really (REALLY) hot. Wearing a short sleeved cotton blouse and light weight slacks and am boiling. Wish I had those shorts I'm always recommending against

Lovely breakfast- the B&B is vegetarian but not vegan so eggs are on the menu.

I head out to Alnwick and end up staying there most of the day. The Gardens are amazing (though, once again very little is in bloom except for vast hillsides of tulips and bluebells.). The Gardens are quite separate from the Castle and are really two unique/separate sites. One could spend several hours at either place and also walk into the town, so Alnwick is definitely 'worth' a full day - even w/o the Harry Potter connections.

The central cascade, the poison garden, the ornamental gardens --hard to imagine that they are really only about 10 years old. The Duchess has had a

After wandering through the gardens for maybe 2 hours, I walk over to the Castle. It is massive and the State Rooms are equal/better than any of the grand homes like Chatsworth, or Castle Howard, or Blenheim. Lots of great artwork - Canaletto, Titian, Turner, plus some truly fabulous furnishings. Plus there are at least 3or 4 individual museums w/i the castle walls.

Anyone visiting NE England or even the Scottish Borders should really try to fit in a visit to Alnwick.

There are several places to eat in the gardens and the Castle - or one can walk in to town for a pub or cafe. But I decided to eat in the Treehouse. The restaurant has a weird/wonderful vibe sort of Lord of the Rings-ish With fairy lights, trees growing up through the room, rustic/strange seating. I had a potato/asparagus starter and Salmon & Leeks main plus a glass of wine.

http://www.alnwickgarden.com/
http://www.alnwickcastle.com/
http://tinyurl.com/7kt5bbb
http://tinyurl.com/7qwy8jy
http://www.alnwickgarden.com/explore/whats-here/the-treehouse

It is now nearly 3PM and I'm a bit anxious about my tyre and want to get back to Rothbury just in case I need a plan B. So I reluctantly leave Alnwick w/my fingers firmly crossed that there are no hiccups at the Rover garage.

Not to worry -- it is all ready and they take less than 10 minutes to switch the old rim and put the spare in the boot. £154 (!) later I'm on my way back to the B&B.

There is noway I'll be hungry by any sort of normal dinner service. So back to the co-op for another sandwich just in case. Found the local branch library which closes in the afternoon but re-opens for a couple of hours in the evening. Used their computer to double check that I have all the info for the Thames pageant. Then a walk around town - a Pimms in a pub downtown - and back to the B&B for an evening of telly/chocolate digestives and a few bites of sandwich.

Next: Beamish and on to the Dales

oops - >>The Duchess has had a huge impact on Alnwick - her garden is one of the major employers in the area.<<

I LOVE Alnwick, and I too have eaten at the Treehouse and really enjoyed it.
There's an absolutely superb (and huge) bookshop in the town called Barter Books, housed in old railway buildings. You can easily lose several hours of your life in that place!
Especially in winter when there are open fires, comfy sofas and a cafe that sells hot chocolate and teacakes.
http://www.barterbooks.co.uk/html/About%20Us/The%20Bookshop.php
Barter Books is also responsible for the current popularity of the 'Keep Calm and Carry On' merchandise found everywhere at the moment.
Waiting patiently for your Dales trip report!

Morgana: My original plan was to spend the entire days in Alnwick so I could explore the town and visit Barter Books and have dinner there. But I really needed to be back in Rothbury early in case there was a glitch w/ the tyre. So I didn't do anything but drive through town.

Saturday: Beamish and on to the Dales

Another very good breakfast and I was on the road a little after 9:00 headed down the A1. I had the Michelin road atlas I bought in Edinburgh. It was too large (small?) a scale to have all the roads and none of the teensy ones. I managed OK in Scotland and later in the Dales because I had brought the respective pages from an old 3 miles to the inch atlas from home.

But getting to Beamish from Gateshead it let me down. I assumed there would be signs from the motorway but I never saw any. I wandered around in circles - and when I hit Stanley for the 2nd time it was time to stop and ask. Just as I was about to stop at a petrol station -- in the distance I see one of those brown tourist signs and it was for Beamish. To this day I have no idea where I was for the best part of 45 minutes.

Today was another HOT day and at Beamish you really feel it since it is so large and just about all outdoors. I arrive maybe 15 minutes after opening and the lines were enormous. They have one queue just for season ticket holders that that was long, and the general admission had hundreds of people. This place is HUGE and I spent about 4 hours there and still didn't see/do everything. Luckily, since it is so big, the crowds are totally absorbed/spread out.

There is an Edwardian town, Small Georgian manor house, coal mine and pit village, farm/farmhouse, train station, trams, omnibuses. Just during my visit there was a mineworkers parade, a band concert, and classes in the schoolhouse. My favorite section was the town. All the shops/houses/garage are open and set up as they would have been in the early 20th century.

You can also go into the mine - they take about 20 people at a time, all wearing hard hats, a few hundred feet down the tunnel. I'm short and when the miner tour guide said we'd have to crouch/duck I thought - >>yep, you tall folks will have to watch it.<< Wrong! Even the children had to stoop way over just to make their way. It was really dark and wet and even though we were basically still at surface level it was REALLY claustrophobic. I can't imagine how awful it would be a mile or two down and never being able to stand erect. Horrible way to make a living. I've been in lots of caves before, but this was nasty!

After about 4 hours, I tore myself away -- hot and hungry. The lines in the cafe were long and I decide to press on to Aysgarth and hope to get an early pub dinner somewhere

http://www.beamish.org.uk/
http://tinyurl.com/73znlpt

I arrived at the B&B around 4:30. My home for the next 3 nights is a big house w/ a lovely garden and nine rooms for rent. The down stairs breakfast room and two lounges are very nice w/ french doors out onto the lawns. My room was a large twin but weirdly decorated. It was purple. I mean purple. Purple striped wallpaper, purple lampshades, purple satin bedspreads, purple candles, lavender sheets, mixed bouquet of purple/lavender silk flowers. But the bed was very comfortable, the breakfasts were good, and the location was terrific.

http://www.stowhouse.co.uk/

after checking in I walked to The upper, middle and Lower Aysgarth Falls and explored the church which are all w/i 1/2 a mile of the B&B. Really pretty - all of them

http://tinyurl.com/84ek754

Then about 7:00 I walked up the road to the George & Dragon pub w/ rooms. What a nice (and busy) place - if I get back to the area I'd consider staying there. Had poached salmon and grilled asparagus and it was so good I booked dinner there for the next night - mainly because it would solve the problem of either driving after a few drinks or not having drinks w/ dinner... I'm already facing that problem on Monday evening when I have dinner booked at the Yorke Arms. It was sorta weird having Jan & Dean singing Surf City and Little Old Lady From Pasadena, and Leslie Gore serenading during dinner

http://www.georgeanddragonaysgarth.co.uk/index.html

next: Ribblehead, Hawes, Bolton Castle, Jervaulx Abbey, Middleham Castle - & Motorcycles.

Er... £154 for a new tyre? You were I'm afraid comprehensively ripped off there. It should be nowhere near that expensive.

I knew that -- but I didn't have much of a choice. I've got the receipt somewhere - I don't remember how much was tyre and how much was labor.

Located the receipt:

Labour: £25 (which seems pretty reasonable IMO since they drove in to town, switched wheels, mounted the new tyre and and switched them back)

Parts: £104

VAT: £25.80

That's actually bang on right for the UK.

What sort of car was it?

We had a Land Rover which was eating tyres at £300 each.

Just replaced 3 on our two cars and paid between £130 and £190.

Really enjoying this! I have always wanted to go to Alnwick and Beamish, great descriptions and tips for places to stay and eat. Thanks and looking forward to more.

That's actually bang on right for the UK. Oh no it isn't! You'd struggle to pay anything like that at Quickfit or ATS unless you have a very high spec tyre requirement and go for the top of the range brand. For a typical hire car saloon I'd expect to get a new tyre for approx £70-£80 fitted. If you're paying much more than that, you're being ripped off too.

But I doubt there is anything like a 'QuickFit' in a place like Rothbury . . . am I right??

Well there's a Kwikfit and an ATS about 13 miles away in Morpeth. But if you couldn't replace the wheel by the spare yourself I can see how you had no option.

Rothbury - wasn't that the place where that headcase who went round shooting people made his last stand against the police?

Yep. But that was well before I arrived

http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/3044233/Rothbury-in-Northumberland-closed-by-cops-as-Raoul-Moat-names-potential-targets.html

http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2010/jul/10/raoul-moat-cornered-police-rothbury

I wonder what is motivating Gordon R and Belted Galloway to keep trying to highjack Janis's really interesting trip report? Is there nothing going on in the Lounge to keep them amused?

Sunday: Ribblehead, Hawes, Bolton Castle, Jervaulx Abbey, Middleham Castle - & Motorcycles.

yet another HOT day. First breakfast. Very good - order off menu. But honestly - Breakfast is served from 8:45-9:30. At 8:45 sharp as a signal that b'fast is being served, the house is filled w/ patriotic music. Several others were seen stifling giggles, so it wasn't just me Most of the tables were occupied so she had an almost full house.

First off I head out to Ribblehead to see the viaduct. This was a difficult drive -- really beautiful but hard since there were (no exaggeration) hundreds and hundreds of motorcycles. Not just on the narrow B6255, but everywhere I went all day --motorcycles in 1's, 2's, groups of 15. I've never seen anything like it except here in Calif. when they are holding bike races at Infineon Raceway and every motorcycle in 10 counties converges on the place. Where do all these people come from??!

http://tinyurl.com/6rgsho8

Then I retrace my route back to Hawes. It is Sunday so there are no tours of the creamery, but I bought 2 or 3 cheeses and some crackers. The tasting room has about 20 different samples -- maybe more.

From Hawes -more bloody motorcycle - on to Bolton Castle.I figured I'd get off the main road (A684--I think) to avoid the crowds. So I take a unclassified rd - narrow and even MORE bikes Where do all these people come from??!

Bolton was really interesting -a tad bit confusing because one had to go through the tea shop to get in/out/or into the grounds. This is a well preserved medieval castle that was still lived in until the mid 20th century. Mary QoS and Civil War connections and a pretty interesting history all around.

Unfortunately the roses/gardens weren't blooming but the gardens were pretty anyway. Had tea and scones in the tea shop.

http://www.boltoncastle.co.uk/metadot/index.pl

It was mid-afternoon and I decided to head down to Jervaulx Abbey which is absolutely beautiful. (MORE motorcycles!) There are extensive remains and the setting is so pretty. A lot of it reminds me of Inchmahome. Jervaulx is privately owned and there is just an honesty box to pay the entrance charge. I didn't have the right change so paid after my visit at the cafe on my way back to the car park.

http://www.jervaulxabbey.com/home.php
http://tinyurl.com/7g27krf

After Jervaulx, I still had time to squeeze in a stop at Middleham Castle. It is much larger than I expected and you can climb up and over all of it. The views from up top must cover 3 counties.

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/middleham-castle/
http://tinyurl.com/6q2fll3

When I get back to the B&B, new guests had checked in - w/ 3 motorcycles! We were chatting in the lounge and I was asking why I'd seen soooooo many all day/everywhere. Tony explained there was no 'event' or rally - it was just a nice weekend and the Dales are a major biker destination. That is why they came out on Sunday evening - to miss the big crowds on the weekend. I talked about riding in the Sierra Nevada/foothills years ago w/ my ex and that I missed it (though riding also makes me nervous). One thing led to another and he offered to give me a ride. So I had a pre-dinner ride on the back of a Honda NT. We were out for about half and hour and went up behind the B&B past the National Park visitors center back around into Aysgarth.

Tony's wife Rose had her own bike but didn't ride out w/ us. They were a fun couple from outside Newcastle I'd guess in their early 40's. They were only staying the one night and then heading south to Wharfdale.

After freshening up, I walked down to the George & Dragon for my 2nd dinner there. Duck Breast w/ braised cabbage and a three chocolate dessert sampler. YUMMO!!! (tonight it was Simon & Garfunkle )

Next: Long hot day roaming through the Dales, Bolton Abbey, Scarhouse Reservoir, Middlesmoor and the Yorke Arms

ron: Didn't see your post. Not to worry - It doesn't bother me at all. Gordon gave me a LOT of help for the Jersey part of the trip and 'Belted' and I have a 'history'

Loving your trip report, Janis. Such wonderful castles and villages. I was going to say it wasn't that crowded until I got to the motorcycles!!!

God help anyone wo tries to hijack one of our Janis' trip reports.

I reregistered for this, that's the effort I made to come to this party. Janis will have made her usual pedestrian effort of driving at 27 miles an hour!

Motorbikes on a sunny day in North Yorkshire have become a pain, particualry when you are sat enjoying the peace of somewhere like Jervaulx. We were last there 18 months ago, in the snow, on a Monday. Magical experience.

Ron - your comments are uncalled for. I am genuinely reading Janis's TR with interest (and especially waiting for the Jersey bit as I provided some small input to this). My contribution was relevant and not at all "hijacking" the thread.

Janis, really enjoying reading this (and Belted and Gordon's spirited banter/commentaries). I've been to the UK so many times and have a ton of relatives and friends all over the place; we've done some terrific short trips to pretty places and homes and gardens together, but now I'm hooked on doing a longer driving trip like yours. Scotland sounds (and looks) just as beautiful as my folks keep telling me, and I've always wanted to visit the Dales and Pennines.

Stifled a guffaw at the 'Purple Haze' room at Stowhouse. Reminded me of a B&B room in Bourton-on-the-water, except it was RED. Like being in hell.

Great job, looking fwd to more.

ttt

I thoroughly enjoyed Jervaulx Abbey as well. I loved the fact that nature was completely retaking the area. Incredibly picturesque. When I was there, there was bright pink fireweed growing all over it. Here's a pic: http://www.greendragonartist.com/Galleries/Small%20Images/England/FleurdeJervaulx.jpg

Monday - Long hot day roaming through the Dales, Bolton Abbey, Scarhouse Reservoir, Middlesmoor and the Yorke Arms

Patriotic music @ 0830 - time for another good breakfast. Yesterday the house was nearly fully booked, today only 3 tables are occupied - me, the bikers and a Grandmother/mother/20 yo daughter.

I'm on the road by a bit after 0900 - today was going to be a sort of a big S/SW loop as far as Bolton Abbey, Fountains Abbey, Pateley Bridge, Scar House Reservoir/Middlesmoor ending up w/ dinner in Nidderdale at the Yorke Arms in Ramsgill and back to Aysgarth.

So I had a bit of a dilemma - it is another HOT so I need to dress really light/casually, but I also want to be fairly smart at the Yorke Arms. best I could do -- a nice white shirt and light weight slacks but threw a pretty scarf in the back of the car to 'dress it up a bit' tonight.

First stop is West Burton - not far from Aysgarth. This is a small village w/ a HUGE green and pretty waterfalls. I was walking across the green taking photos and a woman came out of one of the houses walking an Airedale. I don't have a dog now but have always had Scotties and Airedales (usually one of each at the same time). I love LOVE Airedales! So of course I had to stop and make kissy face w/ the dog (darn -- I thought I wrote down her name but it doesn't seem to be in my notes). She was a lovely old thing and very friendly. The owner (also a lovely/friendly old thing ) wanted to drop some trash in a distant bin and asked if I minded watching her dog for a minute. Would I?! So here I am in the Dales, walking my favorite dog, on a lovely warm morning. Life is good.

We say our goodbyes and I start to walk to the other end of the village to look at the Falls. A car pulls up and parks sort of in my path and as I walk around the car I glance in the back of the estate and what do I see but TWO Airedales!! My goodness. I'll go a month or more w/o seeing one and here are three in one tiny village. More Airedale luvin' before I break away to visit the waterfall, which was really pretty in dappled sunlight - and nice respite from the heat that was already building.

http://tinyurl.com/7lnpc24

Next stop, Hubberholme, which is a tiny place on the River Wharfe down a crazy/skinny single track rd. I only stopped for maybe 30 minutes - didn't go in the pub which looks really interesting (but wouldn't have been able face that road after a 1/2pint )

My main reason for visiting was to see the church - it was founded in the 12th century and some of the original Norman bits are still there. I suppose its main claim to fame nowadays are the pews carvings by Robert Thompson -- the famous Mouseman. Plus there is also a memorial to JB Priestley who is buried there.

From there - on to Bolton Abbey. This place is magnificent. Just really pretty. It was very hot by this time and the river was full of swimmers/waders/just-dangling-ones-toes-in-the water-ers/anglers

It is quite a massive complex - besides the abbey/grounds there are shops, cafes, post office.

http://www.boltonabbey.com/
http://tinyurl.com/7jqexp3

Have to run some errands so will pick up w/ Pateley bridge this evening.

Next: Pateley Bridge > Scar House, Middlesmoor and the Yorke Arms (and 'the road is closed')

Hear, hear, Gordon.

Pateley Bridge > Scar House, Middlesmoor and the Yorke Arms (and OMG 'the road is closed')

After Bolton Abbey, I travel east to Pateley Bridge - checked in at the TIC for some info and hit the next door cash machine. It is a busy little town - I know I had and afternoon tea -- but for the life of me can't remember the name of the place. I do know it was yummy though. I would have liked to explore a bit more but it was really just a tea, cash and petrol stop

My original plan was to now head over to Fountains Abbey - but I've been there a few times and to be honest -- today is just too darn hot. I am actually using the ac in my little car.

I change plans and drive up Nidderdale (take a peek at exactly where the Yorke Arms is - wow - what a pretty place). On through Lofthouse. Morgana had given me really good directions for the water district road out to Scar House reservoir . . . and a good thing too since it didn't show in my road atlas. (not the first time today I'll be on a 'missing' road).

It is quite a drive out to the reservoir on a beautiful road -- and I didn't pass another car the entire distance. I was beginning to think 'what am I getting myself into?" Finally get to the car park and there are three or four other cars there and a handful of people. What a desolate/beautiful place. Back in the '20 when the dam was being built this was a town w/ nearly 1500 residents. The only remains are a few foundations.

I walked across the dam and just a little ways along the far side of the lake then back to the car park - again didn't pass a single car on the way out.

http://tinyurl.com/7qvfr8c

Then I drove up into Middlesmoor - what a neat little village. Houses/cottages squeezed in every which way up and down quite steep/narrow lanes. The village has the feeling it is sitting at the end of the world. The church is quite interesting and the views from the church yard must include the whole dale w/ a couple of lakes/reservoirs off in the distance. Not only did my pitiful road atlas not show the Scar House rd -- Middlesmoor wasn't there either (but thanks to Morgana I knew exactly where I was).

Sat on a bench for maybe 30mins talking to a couple from Leeds w/ a jack Russell and a sort of cockapoo-looking cuite, who were exploring the area for the first time. I was relieved to find out that even these 'locals' felt some of the roads were crazy skinny!

Back when planning the trip I was trying to work in a meal at the Yorke Arms. Sunday lunch would have been perfect-but it would have also eaten up an entire afternoon of my too limited time in the Dales. SoI rang them up and booked for Monday night. I wanted the earliest seating --not because I like dining that early, but because I figured I'd have quite a drive back to Aysgarth and wanted it to be mostly in daylight -so 7PM it was.

I draped my posh scarf to dress up and went inside this lovely place. I sat in the lounge and ordered a glass of white figuring I should only have one because of the long drive 'home'. Then while sitting there I glanced upat the back bar and saw a bottle of Pimms . . . This is definitely Pimms weather! So signal for the bar man and sheepishly explain that while the wine is lovely, and I'll certainly pay for it, I'd really like a Pimms instead. And it WAS lovely

They brought in the amuse bouche -- which was actually 4 different really yummy bites.

then I was invited into the dining room -- I was the only one (after all it was awfully early). There were two couples drinking out front and before I left two other parties were seated in a different dining room.

I really enjoyed the Yorke Arms -- and the service was amazing. But unfortunately I didn't enjoy the meal as much as it deserved. As I may have mentioned once or twice ( ) it was very hot all day and I think I just got too much sun. All of a sudden I just didn't feel that good

I soldiered through - and it definitely wasn't the restaurants 'fault'

After dinner I asked if there was a way to get over towards the A6108 w/o going all the way back to Pateley Bridge and Ripon. Yes - there is a 'good' road from Lofthouse over the top of the moor ending down near Jervaulx. Perfect, so about 8:15 I head out to find my way home. Found the road no problem -another singletrack but no problem because it is still quite light out and there are no other cars. It is a really beautiful road and my head (and stomach) begin to feel better. After several really lonely miles, I pass one car -- OK so I'm not too far from civilization . Cross a couple of Cattle grids and press on - maybe another 5 miles . . . And a big sign "Road closed ahead! WTF!! Why wasn't that mentioned before -- like back in Lofthouse??? What to do? I come to the closed bit - do I press on or turn around and drive back to Pateley over to Ripon and back north - probably 50 miles in all.

Then I remember that one car I'd passed. I figured it must have come through this way. So I drove a few hundred yards on the rutted dirt road and all of a sudden -- back on a normal paved road. PHEW! That was pretty hairy. I got to the 6108 and knew my way from there. Past Jervaulx and Middleham and up to Aysgarth rolling into the B&B just as it was getting dark - that may have been a 'short cut' but it still took more than an hour.

and so to bed

Next: Canceled flight, Finding a way to Jersey, and a wonderful upgrade

Really glad you liked Middlesmoor etc - Nidderdale really is lovely and much quieter than many of the Dales. Your description of Scarhouse is spot on ('desolate/beautiful'). We've occasionally gone out there in winter, but it can be bleak even in mid summer. Very atmospheric though.
I agree with the service at the Yorke Arms. I don't go half as often as I'd like, but when I do go the staff remember me by name and are really lovely. And the food is amazing! We've stayed overnight as couple of times too on special occasions, and it's a wonderful place to wake up and have one of their fabulous breakfasts.

Mmmm just stumbled on your little gem, janisj - saving to savour with a red later on. Thank you

Great report on your excursions in the Dales. Yorke Arms is now on my someday list!

Oooh - staying at the Yorke Arms would be a dream!

pressing on . . . Tuesday - Canceled flight, Finding a way to Jersey, and a wonderful upgrade

I was the only guest last night so am alone in the b'fast room -- but still the patriotic music to signal 'soups on'. My stay has been quite nice -- the B&B gardens are lovely, it is walking distance to the Falls, Aysgarth is a convenient base for getting around the Dales, and the owner let me use her computer - but I still think the purple and breakfast serenade are just a tad quirky

After checking out I head down the A1 to Leeds/Bradford airport for my 1PM FlyBe flight. The routing was Leeds > Exeter > Jersey. I got there w/ plenty of time to spare, turn the car in at Hertz and walk over to the terminal and look for FlyBe check in . . . OK -- Exeter flight isn't on the board?? The airport is under construction and there is quite a bit of confusion - There was an airport greeter to help folks find where they need to be . . only it was her first day on the job and she didn't know anything.

Apparently FlyBe doesn't have any landside staff at Leeds - they use a sort of generic customer service desk. Come to find out -- the Exeter flight was canceled (the plane had mechanical problems and never left Exeter) They first said I couldn't fly out until tomorrow. OH NO -- they didn't!!

I insisted there must be some way - and they found availability 6 hours later to Southampton and eventually arriving in Jersey late that night. Crap! Got a food voucher and stomped off (well not really 'stomped' but I wasn't a happy camper). Plus it was too early to check in for the Southampton flight and there is virtually nothing landside but a sort of snack bar.

I saw the same airport greeter -- and she commiserated about my predicament. Another couple overheard our conversation and said "you know, Jet2 has a jersey flight in about an hour." No we didn't know (they are in a different part of the terminal and the flights didn't display). I ran over there and booked - then ran back to FlyBe's customer service desk to find out about a refund. "Here is the e-mail address" - OKAY, I'll deal w/ that later.

Went through security and waited . . . And there is a total power failure in the departure lounge! This trip is jinxed (!) . . . No announcements and LOTS of people wandering around w/ looks on their faces from mild curiosity to total rage. One shop stayed open for cash only w/ all their £££ out on a counter and the clerk making change. Everything else shut.

The power is still out -but it must only be affecting airside since more people keep coming through security and the lounges are totally crammed. Flight announcements resume and even though the terminal is still dark -- my flight boards on time!!

It was a nice flight - landed in Jersey about 50 minutes after my original FlyBe ETA.

I am staying at The Old Courthouse in St Aubin for the next 3 nights (THANK YOU Gordon_R!!!). I had decided to rent a car just for Wed, Thurs, Fri morning so took a cab to the hotel.

What a find - I booked a small non-water view single and they upgraded me to a large harbor front king. The views from my room are amazing! I may never leave

They explained the weird parking system - and gave me a book of scratch cards. I already had a pretty good understanding from Gordon's posts on my Jersey thread, but seeing the actual scratch cards . . . My goodness, who devised this?? You have to scratch off 5 separate sections on the cards every time you park. The little car park across from the hotel is free parking from 5PM to 8AM so I can park over night no problem, but have to use scratchers in the afternoon/morning.

There are several places to eat in the hotel from a posh restaurant (which is also the breakfast room), to a patio bistro, to a pub, and others I didn't try.

Tonight I ate in the bistro - rack of lamb which was very good. Walked around the harbor and up into the town proper

http://www.oldcourthousejersey.com/first.aspx

Next: Durrell Wildlife park, Orchids, Scenery, Samares Manor . . . and getting lost more than once

You have to scratch off 5 separate sections on the cards every time you park.

And if you are parking somewhere all day, you have to display a whole collection of individual paycards along your dashboard! Truly one of the weirdest parking payment systems anywhere in the world. How was the parking in St Aubin anyway? Manageable or difficult as it so often is?

I had no problems. It was easy and convenient. The car park seemed to be totally full during the day -- but by late afternoon there was always space. One day I got back after 5PM so just used a scratch card for after 8AM the next morning. The other day I returned maybe 3:30 or 4-ish so used two scratchers - 1 for the afternoon and one for the next morning.

The only other place I used/needed them was in Gorey.

This is just an amazing trip, Janis. I want to take your report and fly over!!!

Sorry for the hold up -- was hoping to finish up Jersey and London by this weekend. But the next couple of days aren't in my Journal - wrote quick bits in my little 'Keep Calm & Carry On' notebook and now I can't find it Will try to recreate from memory what I saw/did on Jersey. So the odd detail may be slightly out of order but using my photos it should be pretty close:

Durrell Wildlife park, Orchids, Scenery, Samares Manor . . . and getting lost more than once

When I landed yesterday I spoke w/ the Avis rep at the airport to check how/where I'd get my car today. They don't have an actual desk in the airport but a sort of portable rostrum. He rang up the depot and found out I had booked for pick up at the airport and they couldn't deliver the car to St Aubin. Not to worry, there is a bus stop about 2 blocks from the hotel soeasy to get to the airport.

When I woke up the first thing I noticed was I couldn't see much of the harbor (which is about 60 feet from my windows). REALLY foggy. Very good breakfast - off the menu plus cold continental/buffet items.

I walk up to the bus stop - soon a #15 bus arrives and in about 15 mins I'm at the airport. Only problem . . . The airport is pretty much shut down due to the fog. No arrivals or departures. Ergo -- no staff/no Avis rostrum!? I mentioned I'm traveling 'off the grid' so to speak. No phone or laptop. This was the really the first time I truly regretted that decision.

A man let me use his mobile (he had come out to pick up several students going to a conference/competition . . and was returning empty handed). I rang up (or actually - he rang up) Avis and about 15 mins later the agent drove up in my car. He drove to the depot and w/i a few mins I was on my way.

My plan was to concentrate on the eastern half of the island today and more of the west side/beaches tomorrow. First stop the Durrell Wildlife foundation.

It is quite large - I ended up spending maybe 2.5 hours there. The Meerkats!! . . . they are soooooo cute This was actually better/more interesting than I expected. But maybe in hindsight my time would have been better spent exploring things more uniquely 'Jersey'. (I've been to Port Lympne in Kent a couple of times and while the 'atmosphere' is different at Durrell, they are pretty similar)

http://www.durrell.org/Wildlife-park/

Okay Gordon_R . . . I have s slight bone to pick w/ you! You recommended the Old Courthouse - great! You explained the nutty parking scratch cards - very helpful. You gave me lots of good/useful suggestions - really helped me plan my time. BUT you neglected to mention some of the roads Off the few main roads -- the signs are practically useless. It is like they don't want you to know where you are! And narrow?? Some of the single tracks in the Dales are motorways by comparison

At least rental cars all display a big red "H" - probably to prevent mayhem

Have to dash off so will pick this up later tonight. . . .

From the animal park I made my way to the Eric Young Orchid foundation. I didn't have a decent map the whole time I was on Jersey -- just those glossy tourist maps from the hotel and a similar one from Avis. My &^%$* road atlas was useless. The Channel Islands were supposed to be an inset on page 3, but the inset was missing. So instead of a few missing roads/villages, the whole bloody island was missing (just tonight I noticed that one of my old UK atlases I have here at home has a terrific map of Jersey . . . )

Anyway, the 2nd time I passed the same house/garden I figured I was going in circles! What probably should have been a 10 or 15 minute drive took easily 45 minutes! But it was definitely 'worth' the hassle. What gorgeous flowers . . .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wZ7FQy3BCI
http://tinyurl.com/85lfxdw

Then I drove down to Samares Manor where I had a late lunch (quite good) before exploring the gardens. Was too late (thanks to driving in circles to hell and gone) to get a tour of the house -- but I can come back tomorrow w/o paying again. I have to decide if I want to come back tomorrow or skip it and do the west side of the island.

This place is really beautiful (and worth the trek)

http://www.samaresmanor.com/

http://tinyurl.com/7lg7fhb

I had assumed that driving through St Helier (the only city) would be difficult . . . But that was the easiest bit. The main thru roads are very well sign posted and it was easy peasy. Samares Manor > St Helier > St Aubin could not have been simpler. Got back to the hotel about 5:30 so I didn't even have to use a scratch card . . .

The fog had lifted by mid morning (at least on the east side of the island). There was a bit of light rain followed by brilliant sunshine. So it ended up a very nice day. I explored a bit more of St Aubin and then walked back to the hotel around 7PM and decided to eat at the hotel again.

Ordered a whole cracked crab. Both the barman and the waitress came back to make sure I knew what I had ordered. I guess they thought I'd freak when whole a crab arrived at my table Being from Northern Calif. I am VERY used to eating/cracking/cleaning whole dungeness crab. Jersey crab is very similar. It had a bit larger claws, and the meat was a bit less rich/sweet. So maybe not quite as good as dungeness, it was still VERY good.

Had a night cap out on the deck and took another walk along the harbor front. This is such a neat place!

Next: A Glass Church, Mont Orgueil Castle, Samares Manor house tour . . . and getting lost again

Getting lost (well OK, a bit lost) is just part of the fun in Jersey. I live in a rural area on the mainland so I suppose the "culture shock" of driving in Jersey is less pronounced to me. The road signs at junctions generally indicate the direction to different parishes (there are 12 in all, including St John, Trinity etc). If you know which parish the place you are heading is in it's not that hard to follow. The tourist map you can collect in the arrivals hall at the airport is detailed enough. Another specific feature of driving on the island is that many of the rural roads are officially classified as "Green Lanes" which have a speed limit of 15mph and priroty to walkers and horse riders.

Avis hire cars: I always use them these days as they have the best prices on-line and don't rip you off with a compulsory purchase of at least 1/2 tank of fuel. This is important as you'll never use this much fuel in a short visit (unless you really do spend the whole time going round in circles in the green lanes of St Martin). I did point out in your original Jersey Help thread that not all the hire car companies have desks IN the airport. Avis does have a full service open-all-day reception desk and depot but it's off-airport, a short shuttle bus journey away. You were unlucky that the fog (a surprisingly common occurance at JER) put a spanner in the works. Collection at the hotel is no problem provided you specify this on the on-line booking form.

Samares Manor is indeed a very pleasant spot - they often do falconry displays there and have very nice gardens (it's just up the road from where my sister lives). The Durrell Wildlife park is rightly famous and I know people who've travelled from Australia to visit it. It is small scale compared to most internationally known zoos and the range of animals is geared mainly around the most endangered species. They also don't get the footfall to generate enough income to update/expand as often as other zoos/wildlife parks. Those expecting something like the amazing San Diego zoo would probably be disappointed.

Looking forward to the next bit!

Yes, I found Avis very reasonable. Unfortunately, w/ me getting lost and driving farther than I needed to, I actually had to buy a bit of petrol.

A Glass Church, Mont Orgueil Castle, Samares Manor house tour . . . and getting lost again

Another nice breakfast. I'm torn what to do today. I haven't explored at all on the west side of the island, but I also missed Mont Orgueil/Gorey and touring Samares Manor. What I really need is another day or two (I fly up to LGW tomorrow morning)

It is sunny and warm, and I had already scratched off parking til late morning so I decide to walk along the bay to Millbrook (a little over halfway to St Helier -- maybe 2 miles) to see the Glass church. St Matthew's Church is a fairly nondescript small, simple church on a busy street. Nothing much to attract attention . . . UNTIL you walk inside. It is just full of glowing white glass created by Rene Lalique. Everything . . Altar rail, Altar pieces, font, cross, doors . . . everything. It is amazing

http://www.glasschurch.org/

I was running late and didn't really have time to walk back so I caught a bus that dropped me back in the middle of St Aubin.

Finally decided to head east. First stop Gorey and Mont Orgueil castle. Thought I knew the way A3 - easy peasy. Wrong. I get on the A3, no problem, but the next junction is signed "A4 Inland Route". WTF! Okay what happened to the A3? No signs, nuthin'. Come to find out even though it said A4 -- it was actually the A3 . . OK -- Gordon, splain that one to me

Eventually got my bearings and found Gorey and parked out on the harbor wall below the castle. Wow -- What a lot of steps (!) - around every corner is another staircase. And amazing views! And a fascinating hologram of the Queen called Equanimity.

http://tinyurl.com/7presst

Hung around Gorey and the castle for close to 2 hours and made my way back to Samares Manor (didn't get lost this time ) in time for the 2:30 tour. What an interesting house/family history - parts date from the 11th century and it is still lived in.

After the 90 minute tour I visited the rural life/carriage museum. On the way out I went inside the doocot (Dovecote/Colombier). As dovecotes go it is pretty large and has a thatched roof, though access is limited (My fav doo cot is still the one at Minster Lovell)

Had tea/cake in the garden cafe, then drove back through St Helier ( smug font on . . . didn't take a single wrong turn )

Walked down to the Boat House (a complex of bars/cafes) on the other side of the harbor, and had tapas and wine and watched the tide flow out and the boats settle on the harbor floor.

walked back to the hotel and partially packed then went downstairs to the cellar pub and had a 21 yo Macallan (it was £5.10 which I thought was a bargain)

Next: Airport fogged in, B&B Belgravia, 'Horrids', Design exhibition at V&A, Royal Albert Hall/Elgar/Julian Lloyd-Webber

Enjoying the report, Janis. Curious as to the choice of being "off the grid." Seems a Sat Nav and a phone would have made things a little easier. Almost seems masochistic.

"Curious as to the choice of being "off the grid." Seems a Sat Nav and a phone would have made things a little easier. Almost seems masochistic."

Wasn't really a 'choice' I guess. I don't have a satnav at home and I usually have no problems just using a road atlas. My mistake was buying one in central Edinburgh - the one I found was a smaller scale than I usually have. It wouldn't have helped on Jersey anyway (since the whole island was missing ) and I didn't get lost anywhere else.

The phone . . . well, my carrier doesn't have international service. I had considered getting a cheap PAYG in Edinburgh. But jetlag recovery was first priority, and for the next 2+ weeks I was in very rural areas.

I've traveled to the UK scores of times w/o gadgets/gizmos/electronics and lived to tell the tale . But I do think I'll at least take a phone next time.

Friday: Airport fogged in, B&B Belgravia, 'Horrids', Design exhibition at V&A, Royal Albert Hall/Elgar/Julian Lloyd-Webber

Another very good breakfast. Then I finished packing, checked out, loaded the car and took one last walk along the harbor front. If I ever make it back to Jersey, I'll stay at the same place again - it really was lovely (though next time I'll probably have to PAY for the posh room )

It was overcast but warm and I drove over to the airport. It is only a few miles from St Aubin . . . But in those few miles it went from overcast to pea soup! By the time I got to the car park you could barely see the terminal bldgs. (Avis lets you just park the car at the airport and drop the keys in a box in the terminal)

Oops! Nothing is landing or taking off. My FlyBe flight to LGW is scheduled at 11:00 and I a ticket for the V&A at 4:15. I'm not too worried since my B&B is very near Victoria and I should have enough wiggle room. But the departure board keeps filling up w/ red DELAYED flights . . . and no flight announcements. Lots of unhappy looking people

Then all of a sudden they announce my flight is in final boarding (?) . . . and we land 10 mins early.

I took the GEX to Victoria - probably for the last time. For me the main advantage of the Express is (was) being able to just get on and pay on board from your seat. But now you have to buy your ticket before crossing the barriers. So honestly, I don't see any reason to pay the premium for the GEX.

I booked B&B Belgravia on Ebury Street. About a 5 min walk from the station. This was sort of last resort - I usually rent flats but after about 3 weeks of searching back in Feb/Mar, I wasn't finding anything.

Well-- It could not have been nicer for the price. Of course the location is good - half way between Victoria and Sloan Sq. The double room was decent sized w/ built ins and a very ingenious/modern bathroom squeezed into a small space. The breakfast room is nice, they do cook to order and cold buffet. Free wifi Plus a lounge w/ a computer for residents use.

I still prefer having a flat/kitchen but B&B Belgravia will stay in the database for sure.

My tix for British 20th Century Design @ the V&A is for 4:15 so I have lots of time. I head first to the Royal Albert Hall. I buy a paper - usually the Telegraph - most days when in the UK and way back Rothbury I had seen an ad for tonight's Philharmonia concert - Elgar w/ Julian Lloyd Webber. What better to get in the mood for the Jubilee? Got a really great seat in the front row of the stalls 6 seats from the stage (at the Albert Hall the stalls are elevated and the same level as the stage.)

Then I walked over to the V&A and had a late-ish lunch in the Morris, Gamble, Poynter Rooms. I've eaten there a few times and it has usually been very good. But just sayin', don't order roast lamb at what is essentially a cafeteria But the wine was very good.

It was a terrific exhibition over several rooms. All sorts of themes of 20th century British design. From the festival of Britain to the new towns to clothing to 'British Invasion' music to furniture to to to. But it was sort of weird . . I've been to many special events at the V&A, Tate(s), National, etc and they are usually very crowded. There was almost no one there. The guards looked very bored . . no one to watch.

OK--I am officially OLD!. OMG. Equus (I saw the original production in London) Laura Ashley (when I lived in England 1/3 of my house and 2/3 of my wardrobe were Laura Ashley) Habitat (the 2/3 of my house that wasn't Laura Ashley was Habitat) are all in this Exhibition . . . and I'm paying to see them??

I wander around the museum a bit and then walk up to Harrod's. I know, I KNOW But I have a long standing tradition of buying a Halcyon Days enamel box every trip to London and Harrods usually has the best selection. I picked out one commemorating the Jubilee. (then I got out of Dodge )

On to the Albert Hall and ordered a gin & tonic for the interval. It was such a fun concert. In parts, almost last night of the Proms-ish what w/ Pomp and Circumstance and Land of Hope and Glory. Plus Enigma Variations and the Cello Concerto (plus some other pieces I can't recall just now).\

One scary/sad thing happened, A very elderly lady siting upstairs behind me collapsed shortly into the second half. It definitely looked bad. The emergency workers did their very best to tend to her w/o disrupting everything. But they ended up carrying her out (her family was sitting in the front row of the 2nd tier so were in the line of sight of every person in the Hall.) There were two Japanese girls sitting between the woman/family and the aisle. They had to get up and stand next to the organist the entire time that the EMTs were working on the woman -- probably 15+ minutes. She looked totally non-responsive as they carried her out.

Back to Victoria, picked up a split of wine, some fruit and chocolate digestives (emergency stash ) and walked back to the B&B

Next: Portobello Rd, Turner at the National, Singing in the Rain

Actually . . . Next: Portobello Rd, Turner at the National, Shopping, the Wallace Collection, Singing in the Rain

Tough trying to recreate from my (shaky) memory . . .

Saturday - Portobello Rd, Turner at the National, Shopping, the Wallace Collection, Singing in the Rain

OK -- Damn the weather! This morning is cold and drizzly-and the forecast for tomorrow/the River Pageant is rain. And the dress 'code' is Smart casual -which is fine. But my 'Smart Casual' options aren't 50F/pouring rain suitable. So I've added another task for today -shopping for something to wear tomorrow.

Good early breakfast and I'm out the door to Portobello Road. I'm still looking for a tantalus. Decide to start at the far/Westbourne end of the street and work my way back towards Notting Hill. I walk the entire length dashing in and out of every shop that looks promising and NONE have even one tantalus. Its about 9:45 and I'm running late (have 10:30 ticket for Turner at the National Gallery). At the very top of the market (the end I would normally have started) there is Barham Antiques - and he has at least 10! Most w/i my budget even. And I have no time to examine them/decide. But he has a web site and ships, So I can choose one from the comfort of home - or it gives me an excuse to go back this Fall

http://www.barhamantiques.co.uk/shop.php?catButton=1&categoryID=6&action=displayCategory&submitted=1

Made my way to Trafalgar Sq and the Turner Inspired: In the Light of Claude show. It was really wonderful (and VERY crowded, unlike the V&A.). Many similar Claude and Turner works were juxtaposed and the connection is unmistakable. Besides oils, watercolors, and drawings/sketch books, there was a lot information about the Turner Bequest and its effect on the National Gallery.

On to Oxford Circus work my way down the street. Didn't have much joy -- did buy a couple of scarves that would work w/things I brought. (In the end it won't matter a teensy bit what I wore ) Had a very good Risotto and champagne lunch at Hix in Selfridges.

DAMN! It was cold an drizzly and I'm dressed warmly. But coming out of lunch . . The sun is out and it is actually hot. Crap Is it going to be 11C/pouring down tomorrow like they predict or 21C/sunny like it is now??

I walk over to the Wallace Collection. Their courtyard restaurant is full of folks enjoying the sunshine. I explore a couple of the galleries then stop for a Pimm's break in the courtyard before finishing the rest of the collection right at closing time.

OKAY - Question? I make a point of reading the blue plaques. What on Earth was Simon Bolivar doing living on Duke Street??

I know I had an early light dinner somewhere but can't for the life of me remember where -- it must have been somewhere in Covent Garden-ish (must not have been memorable )

Then to the Palace Theatre for Singing in the Rain where I ordered a drink for the interval. Singing in the Rain is one of my favorite movies ever. IMO just a perfect storm of cast, music, dancing (except for the ballet bit). So I was a bit leery - would this show live up to my expectations. . . IF you like big musicals see this production! It is wonderful. Very true to the movie and while they aren't Gene/Donald/Debbie . . . they are very VERY good. Just a joyous evening.

When I rang to book a few months ago I had my choice of front row of the Dress circle or 3rd row of the stalls >>Do note, in the front of the stalls one might get wet.<< so I chose the Dress Circle. Let me tell you . . . Ain't no "might" in it! The first 7 or 8 rows get wet in the title number at the end of act 1. And when they've toweled off and start to dry out, during the reprise at the end, the entire cast stomps around in the rain and everyone gets totally soaked! And when we leave the theatre --it is POURING down w/rain

Back to Ebury Street - humming most of the way

Next: Jubilee Thames Pageant -cold, wet and WONDERFUL

Sunday: Jubilee Thames Pageant -cold, wet and WONDERFUL

Had to be up and out early so no b'fast this morning, I had borrowed an alarm clock and set it for 05:30. All correspondence stressed that >>All passengers must be at Canary Wharf at 8:00 sharp and late comers will not be admitted.<< I thought the tube station opened at 7AM, but not so. So I decide take a cab to Waterloo to save a transfer and catch the first Jubilee train. Waterloo tube station opened at 7:25 and the first train arrived a little after 7:30 . . . And it was absolutely PACKED. I squeezed on but lots of folks stayed behind on the platform.

Didn't need to rush (or take the cab, or miss breakfast for that matter). When I got to Canary Wharf along w/ about 150 others - about half of the event staff weren't there yet and the check in tables weren't set up.

The company has 4 boats boarding this AM - a large one that will moor in the Pool of London and 3 others that will be moored a bit farther up river. The plan is we clear through security ( supposedly two forms of photo ID but they only asked for one), and board ferries that will shuttle up up river, where some of us will board yet another ferry to cross to the south side of the river. It was about 9:15 when 35 of us finally reach the sailing barge Cabby which was moored just up river from HMS Belfast. What a neat vessel. It was built in the 1920's and apparently was the last wooden sailing barge.

The large cabin is laid out w/ two dining tables and up on top, the back deck that is normally open had a sort of tarp/wind break/marque. We could all fit downstairs but it was a bit snug. But w/ a small table laid upstairs we all had plenty of room. The plan was morning pastries/coffee, Champagne lunch, finishing in time to watch the thousand boats sail down river, then afternoon tea and wine before ferrying back to Tower pier after the Pageant and back to Canary Wharf. There was a flat screen below deck where we could watch the BBC coverage of the early bits up by Battersea.

The food - especially lunch - was very good and there were some really wonderful/friendly folks (especially several from oop north) on board. There were about 6 or 8 'posh gits' (not my description) who hunkered down below decks and didn't mix or enjoy much of anything. They were too wet/cold/miserable!

Sitting out on the river we had a front row seat to this amazing armada. Every inch of both banks of the river plus every window/balcony/terrace w/i view were totally packed. When the masses of human powered craft went down, they filled the entire river and some passed w/i 30-ish feet of us.

Each segment of the pageant was accompanied by a music boat of some sort. The belfry boat w/ the Bells honestly gave me goosebumps. And when the the Spirit of Chartwell passed the thousands of folks behind us up on the bank started a roaring cheer. Had a great view of the Queen and most of the rest of the Royal Family.

For the first maybe 1/4 of the sections through our part of the river it was cool/cold but no rain. Then there was light rain for quite a while -- but then for the last half it really was wet. Most spectators on land stuck it out for a very long time, but by the end - it was pretty miserable and lots had given up. We managed to stay dry the whole time though.

The 'posh gits' mostly saw things on telly downstairs but everyone else basically stayed on deck toasting the participants and taking photos/video.

After the last boats and the philharmonic/chorus passed, the plan was we'd be ferried back across the river w/i maybe 45 mins or so. Uh -- nope. Because, almost as soon as the last boats passed and the Royal Family disembarked, many of the boats started dashing back up river. It was honestly pretty much another full pageant in reverse. HUNDREDS of boats filled the river and we were stuck. It was a steady stream for at least 90 minutes. The 'posh gits' were very unhappy. Apparently they had a 7PM dinner booking somewhere.

Another barge (no passengers on board) broke loose of its mooring and our crew 'saved him' and tied him up along side the Cabby while they worked to get him under power. It was fascinating watching the whole procedure. BUT -- one of the unhappy/grousing/posh gits peeked up top and saw a boat there and went running back down yelling that the ferry was finally here! All of them ran up and bum rushed the other boat all trying to climb on at once. The Cabby crew and the captain of the other barge had to physically restrain a couple of them. (anyone w/ half a brain would realize this wasn't a 'ferry' - it was a flat topped/fairly scruffy open barge. This whole spectacle was most amusing to the folks from oop North.

Finally at about 8:30 a ferry came to get us,then we sailed to a couple of different excursion boats - eventually I'm pretty sure we were close to double the allowed capacity. Can you say standing room only?

They were going to take some back to Canary Wharf but most folks got off at Tower Pier a little after 9:00PM

I had thought I'd look for someplace for a bite to eat after the Pageant, but this was about 2.5 hours later than the original schedule. So I just took the tube back . . . My amazing day that started w/ champagne and the Queen ended w/ me sitting on my bed eating a quarter pounder w/cheese from McDonalds at Victoria station

Next: Low Key day - Liberty, Fortnum & Mason and the Royal Academy summer exhibition

Janisj: You are a woman of parts! And an intrepid traveler! Great trip report, and I look forward to more and more!

For once it sounds as though watching it on TV didn't guarantee the best view (especially given the feeble way the BBC chose to cover it). I'm impressed!

Monday - Low Key day - Liberty, Fortnum & Mason and the Royal Academy summer exhibition"

Originally I had planned on going to Kew and/or a London Walk if the weather was decent (it ended up being quite decent)

But I slept in a bit and decided not to stick to any plans today. Maybe some shopping, maybe some galleries - maybe nothing much. I did want to go to Fortnum & Manson though.

After breakfast I thought about Liberty. Just as I buy myself an enamel box each trip to London, I would bring my Mom a Liberty Scarf from every trip. So I decided keep up the tradition and get one for myself. I got a heavy silk square - though I wasn't carrying my passport or ID so I'll have to go back tomorrow if I want to claim the VAT.

From there over to F&M. Last time I was there,they had two tantalus (tantali ?) so thought it might be worth a shot. Nope -none . . . had to explain to the sales woman what a tantalus is. But I did find a lovely crystal tankard etched w/ rose/thistle/Daffodil/shamrock/crown from the Coronation in '53

I had it shipped (that takes the VAT off the top which pays for most of the shipping). Then I went to the top floor Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon in what used to be the St James's Restaurant.

http://www.fortnumandmason.com/c-54-diamond-jubilee-tea-salon-afternoon-tea-london.aspx

Hadn't booked but thought I'd give it a try. It was just before 1:00 and the hostess could fit me in as long as I vacated the table by 2:30. Yay! So an early afternoon tea will be my lunch. Had a glass of Champagne and a full afternoon tea. Their tea list is as long as some restaurant wine lists. There were several intriguing options, but figured >>What the heck. This is a Jubilee-centric visit, I'll have the special Jubilee blend<<

The whole meal was lovely and they gave me a parting gift of the Jubilee blend and some chocolates.

Then down to the food halls for a few things including some teas, preserves . . . and chocolate dipped digestives in a decorative/musical tin that plays (I'm not kidding ) God Save the Queen!

But none of these will easily fit in my little suitcase, so I figure >>Just ship it<< Wrong, minimum shipping charge is £30 (and my little purchases barely cost £40). So on a hunch I take them upstairs and ask if they can be included in my earlier purchase. The department manager made some frantic phone calls and we made it by a whisker. Another 20 minutes and my tankard would have been on its way. He retrieved it and now the teas/etc will be packed w/ the tankard . . . And it doesn't cost an extra cent

So after successful shopping and a lovely tea/lunch I mull over what to do next. Yes -- the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition. I used to go every year when I lived here but haven't been in years and years. Anyone who has never been should really try attend at least once. Room after room of every sort of art . . . more then 1200 works and 99% of it for sale. The catalog is massive, everything from £90 prints to a Tracey Emin for the cost of a large/posh London house. I spent nearly 2.5 hours there and seriously considered buying three different pieces. (closer to the £90 end than the £ million Emin )

In the end only one of the three was realistically w/i my budget and I decided I only loved it . . . Didn't LOVE it so I passed

http://www.royalacademy.org.uk/exhibitions/summer-exhibition-2012/

I thought briefly about heading to the Mall for the Jubilee concert but figured the crowds would be just MASSIVE (which they were) I wandered over towards Covent Garden, stopped in a pub for a 1/2 pint and then decide to head back to Ebury Street and watch some of the concert on telly.

The most amazing bit was the laser show on the front of Buckingham Palace! It was sort of weird/timeshifting during the post-concert fireworks. My room looked out on Ebury and in the general direction of the Palace. So I would glimpse the highest bursts and hear them, then a couple of seconds later see/hear the same burst on TV. The big finale was so loud/percussive that it set off all the car alarms in the street

Fruit/cheese/digestives/wine while sitting on the bed watching Sir Cliff, Sir Elton, Sir Paul, Will/Kate, the Queen, and fireworks -that was dinner.

Next: Joan Collins, 39 Steps

Didn't see your posts . . . Not totally intrepid

Patrick: the view/vibe was just unbelievable - I was semi-giddy.

A friend here at home recorded the entire day's BBC coverage (off BBC America) and I couldn't bear watching the talking heads in front of the Palace or the commentators always trying to make it about them.

Whenever I saw a talking head I fast forwarded . . . and it cut the program length in 1/2

My! My! My! Your view from the boat had to be amazing!! What a trip you had.

Hi Janis,
Thanks for your report...loved it. Since you are a Channel Islands aficionado, I thought you might enjoy reading 'The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society" by Mary Ann Shaffer with Annie Barrows. If you haven't read it already, it is the story of how the islanders worked around the Nazi occupation of their homes during WW11 (I recently read it as a download on my Kindle; )eISBN 978-0-440-33797-3

thanks jane. I read it a few years ago. Loved it.

Hi LindaL. I'm still wading through my photos, took lots (and LOTS ) and some video. Just had my little Nikon point and shoot but the sound quality on the videos (like of the Belfry barge) is quite good.

Wonderful!

Jane1144, I am a WWII aficionado!! I am going to read that book. Thanks!!

Hope you will share your photos with us!

Tuesday - Joan Collins, 39 Steps

Started out this morning at TKTS. Got a wonderful seat for 39 Steps at the Criterion - 3rd row slightly stage right.

Then I dashed over to Liberty to get the VAT refund forms. The weather was pretty good so I decided to just take a long walk. Eventually ended up at Regents Park and spent some time in the rose garden which was really pretty but not totally in bloom yet. Then I hopped on the tube back to Picadilly Circus.

Today is the Jubilee Service at St Pauls, the carriage ride back to the Palace and the flyover. I briefly considered going to the Mall to try to see the carriages, but even now 2+ hours ahead of time the crowds are streaming through the area. So instead I walk up Piccadilly towards Green Park Tube station. Haven't eaten at the Wolesley in ages so I thought I'd pop in to see if I can get in for lunch.

No tables right now but the can take me at 1:30PM so I book and come back in about 45 mins. I'm just a bit early and the bar is full so I sit in the entry and read the paper. People are coming and going and I'm not really paying much attention. But I glance up . . and standing right in front of me speaking w/ the maitre d' is a 30 something man . . . and Joan freakin' Collins! She is a tiny woman and looks just like herself Gorgeous green suit and lots of jewelry. Apparently they are regulars and on a first name basis w/ everyone.

They go through to the dining rooms and about 5 mins later I'm called. I follow to my table and I'm sitting right next to Joan freakin' Collins!

My lunch was wonderful. Garlicky grilled tiger Prawns starter, Salmon w/ colcannon main, and Creme Brulee.

I waddled back to Ebury St to catch the last of the procession and the flyover on telly - was so sleepy/full I actually dozed through much of it.

Curtain was 8PM so normally I'd have a pre-theatre dinner. But w/ such a big/rich lunch I just have 1/2 of cider in a pub and wander around before heading over to the Criterion. This play is absolutely hysterical! LOVED it!

When the theatre lets out --I can just about think of food. I usually rent flats in Pimlico and often will have tapas at Goya on Lupus St on my way 'home' late at night. That would be perfect about now - tapas and sangria or maybe a Keoke Coffee. So I head to Pimlico tube station and walk up to Goya for old times sake. One of the waitresses remembers me from an earlier trip (Had rented a flat about 3 doors down so was in there almost every night)

It was nearly midnight when I rolled into the B&B . . . and I have to pack to fly out tomorrow But my flight isn't until after 3PM so no hurry, I fall into bed.

Next: William Curley Chocolates (YUM!), Chelsea Hospital, Gordon Ramsey and home

What, no Dynasty-style punch-up with La Collins?

ok, JJ, we know what YOU ate, but what about La Collins?

What a thorough report with much about some places I've not seen in UK. Liked your abbey and castle and all picts, too. You weathered the cold rain and the hot sun.

So Joan Collins looks like herself? ( -: I hope we can all say same! I sometimes wonder if I might look better, though. We were at Chautauqua Institute (see report) where Julie Andrews was on the program and she does look great at 77. To say nothing of Norman Lear at 90.

It must have been touching to scatter ashes of your Mom and Dad. Did you have special words or music or just quiet thoughts?

Bill in Boston

ttt

This is an absolutely wonderful, well-written report.
Thank you for taking the time and care to do it!

Thank you so much for posting such a wonderful report. I really enjoyed it!

Wonderful day to end your trip, Janis!!

Thanks everybody. Its taken me longer to finish this TR than the trip

Wed. - Chelsea Hospital, William Curley Chocolates (YUM!), Gordon Ramsey and home

My flight isn't until 3:10 so I have a few hours free this morning. Up early, packed (traveling carry-on only sure does simplify things), and breakfast and I'm out the door about 09:30. It is a nice morning so I walked over to Sloane Square, down past Chelsea Hospital, to the river and looped back to Ebury Street.

And there at the very end of Ebury . . . is William Curley! Probably my favorite chocolates anywhere. OMG! This is chocolate heaven. I pick out 3 or 4 to get me through the flight and ask for them in a box. >>sorry, but nine is the minimum for a box<< . . . so what the heck- I get Twelve Twelve tiny/delish works of art. (I ration myself to having one a day so I finished the last one about a week after starting this TR)

http://www.williamcurley.co.uk/engine/shop/index.html

Back to the B&B, collected my bag and head out to LHR on the tube. My return flight is BA non-stop to Seattle and then Alaska back to SMF so a lot easier than my trek over. At LHR I quickly clear security and enter the vast shopping centre that is T-5. Shopped a bit - mostly window shopping actually - and then headed to Gordon Ramsey's Plane Food. The initial reviews of this restaurant when it first opened were not good . . . but being my last/only chance to eat at a 'celebrity' restaurant this trip, what the heck?

Well, all I can say is things must have improved since those early reviews. It was really very good. Andnot expensive for airport food. Had a prawn and mussel pasta dish/wine and enjoyed every bite.

The restaurant is directly across from the VAT desk. I was behind a young Chinese woman and her sister who must have at 15 receipts/VAT forms. I was in for a loooong wait since the agent was insisting to physically look at each and every item listed on every receipt. Another agent came round and signaled for me to come forward. He made a cursory look at my one little receipt, stamped it and sent me on my way. Didn't ask to look at the scarf -barely spoke to me. As I left to drop the envelope in the pillar box outside Plane food, both agents were zeroed in on the girl's 5th or 6th receipt . . .

Totally uneventful flight and decent food/service (had an aisle seat on every flight over and back). At Seatac, the Alaska desk announces they are offering FC upgrades for $50. Okay - it is a 100 minute and WHO needs FC?? Moi Where can you get FC for 50 bucks.

Even though I fork over the $50 less than 15 mins before boarding, I get the same >>Welcome Miss janisj<< everyone who booked/paid for FC

Landed at 9:45PM, my Supershuttle left at 10:15 and I walked in my door twenty minutes later. . . .

$50? I would have done the same thing

Well--it was Alaska so not really 'first class'. But definitely business-ish-y. Roomy leather seats w/ tables between, canapes/small plate menu (and real silverware/china), free flowing beverages. So yes, I think it was worth the $50.

As always, an interesting and fun trip report. I now have some excellent suggestions for Scotland and the North, hope to get back eventually. I watched most of the river pageant, wish I could have spotted your ship!

Making a quick trip to London in late August, The Wolseley is on my list, will try to "bag" a celeb.

Thanks again.

Ooh Ooh! forgot something . . . Walking out of William Curley . . . A guy tried to pull the Gold Ring Scam on me. I had never seen it in London (did once in Paris years ago).

It was so funny -nice looking young man walking towards me, spins on a dime (sixpence) and picks up a shiny 'gold' wide band ring and asks if it is mine - >>No<< and he follows me for about 50 feet, I turn and give him the fish eye and he turns back around and heads down the street

Brava!