Rough Itinerary for 5 days in Rome, please suggest more

I like La Carbonara in Campo di'Fiore - excellent antipasto table. Also I'd suggest walking over to Trastevere at least one evening and just go for a place that looks like there are some locals eating there.

As far as your itinerary I'd be inclined to spend the empty times just wandering or cafe sitting (but thats my slow travel style). Stop in at any open churches - many have great art. A trip to the Catacombs outside the city might be a nice addition too.

The old Jewish Ghetto is interesting and not too far from the Colosseum/Forum.

hi wrenwood,

based entirely on our own likes and dislikes,

DAY 2 - after the context tour, head up towards san pietro in vincoli [St. Peter in Chains], and on the way, have lunch at one of the nice neighbourhood restaurants in that area. [sorry, no idea what the one we ate at was called, but it was very good]. from there you could wander up into the monti area [cross over via cavor and head towads the via nazionale] exploring the little shops and workshops of the via dei serpenti and the surrounding streets.

from via nazionale, you can catch a no 40 or 64 bus back to corso vittor emanuale.

Day 4 - if you can bear any more culture after the Borghese, i suggest the galleria doria-pamphilji. so many beautiful pictures, so few people! [not sure if it's open mondays, but if it is, it might be a good choice for that day too].

Restaurants. a couple of times we ate at the antica taverna [have a look at my trip report on our Rome trip last feb for more details] and another restaurant just opposite in the same street. both very good. we also liked via coronari very much. you can't go wrong in that area, really.

One possible problem is on day 1: "shopping @ Campo dei Fiori" - the market is open mornings only: will you arrive early enough?
As far as gelato, one of Rome's best & most famous is not far from where you stay: Giolitti; and as far as restaurants, you MUST check whether Ada (of Alfredo e Ada) is still in business (it's very unlikely, unfortunately). See www.fodors.com/community/europe/francos-favourite-roman-food-restaurants.cfm for addresses and details!

Other places you might want to see -

Church of San Clemente is fascinating - since you can descend through the levels representing the history of the church to the earliest Christian church and below it the Temple to the God Mithras. (There is even a British mystery novel set in church modeled after this.)

And if you're interested in Etruscan antiquities have a look at the Vill Giulia - I eps liked the household goods and the make-up items that are 2000 plus years old.

In addition to just wandering around, which is always good (especially if cafe stops are included), what do you like?

- If Michelangelo's works, several churches have pieces
- If paintings, there are superb pieces in several churches, as well as the Palazzo Barberini, which has Raphael's "La Fornarina." The Palazzo itself is beautiful, especially the view from the womens' bathroom
- I particularly liked wandering around Trastevere; there are several very interesting churches, including St. Cecilia and the beautiful sculpture of her - so unlike anything else.

I would also suggest St. Clemente. And that's near the Colosseum, so you could visit that after your Context tour of the Colosseum, Forum, etc. (that is, after lunch).

wrenwood,

I think you plan sounds great and I also would recommend researching what churches are in the area of your already planned destinations. One of my favorites ws Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, right next to the Pantheon, with the elephant oblisque in front. Beautiful blue ceilings with gold stars and a Michelangelo you can walk right up to. Very dark, pay to light!

I don't know when you are going, but the line to climb up the dome at St. Peter's might be long at that time of day. I went after my Vatican museum tour with Context, late - about 4:15pm. No line, uncrowded and caught a gorgeous sunset with the view!

Buon viaggio!

hmmmmmm how late does Campo stay open? Driver is picking us up at FCO @ 10, so by the time we get to our apartment and talk with the owners I bet we couldn't get to Campo before 1:00. As far as shopping for food, it's probably no big deal as I understand there's lots of wonderful stores around. We won't be cooking dinners, just having breakfast at the apartment and maybe packing some snacks.

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva sounds wonderful, what other churches have Michelangelo's works?

It looks like we could go to San Pietro in Vincoli and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva after our Context Tour. We'd then be halfway back to our apartment which is on Via dei Banchi Vecchi. Anything else on that route?

I have thought about the Catacombs, Appian Way for Sunday morning or Monday. I read somewhere it's nice on Sundays as there is no traffic?

Villa Giula is open (according to website) until 7:30, so we could even do that after Galleria Borghese.

Thanks Ann, Antica Taverna looks like it's close enough to our apartment. Franco, finally found Da Alfredo e Ada", via dei Banchi Nuovi, 14 ~ this is the restaurant you were talking about? TA had a 2009 review, so I will hope it's still there, sounds wonderful. Will we have a problem there since we speak no Italian?

Great suggestions!

Anyone have any experiences eating at Roscioli Restaurant, The Library, Ditirambo, or Pierluigi, all of which are close to our apartment?

wrenwood,

Driver is picking us up at FCO @ 10, so by the time we get to our apartment and talk with the owners I bet we couldn't get to Campo before 1:00.>>

do you want to post the reference to your apartment so we can see exactly where it is? probably you will be at the apartment by 11 am, then 30 mins "handover" so you could be ou and about by noon if all goes to plan. use google maps to see where the nearest supermatket is, in case the market is over by the time you get there, but be warned that they often close in the afternoons and don't usually re-open til about 4pm.

we had the problem that we arrived at about 9pm, and we knew that in the morning, we would be desperate for a cup of tea. so after going out for a drink and walk round, we tried to find somewhere to buy some milk but failed miserably, until we asked, and were directed to a bar which was fortunately on the way back to our apartment. yes - they sold milk by the litre, as well as coffee, beer, wine, brandy, etc. just saying that you may need to be flexible!

wrenwood,

I just love my Streetwise Roma map. Besides being very detailed and laminated, it has a list of sights and churches cross referenced with the map coordinates. Wonderful for impromptu sightseeing! Highly recommend.

Another vote for a visit to atmospheric San Clemente (and if you've ever seen "Roman Holiday" and have a goofy desire to get a photo w/ your hand being swallowed by the Mouth of Truth, la Bocca della Verita, it's not far away).

nytraveler, not to get off topic, but could you post the name of the Brit. mystery set in a similar church? Sounds interesting.

wrenwood, your location will be perfect for evening strolls through Rome to catch the lit-up monuments and fountains. Rick Steves has a decent night walk itinerary outlined in his Italy guidebook; you can do it however you want, but he includes Trastevere as well as the historic center spots.

We enjoyed some potent and delicious absinthe concoctions at a bar in Campo dei Fiore; don't know the name, but just keep an eye out for people with flaming cocktails!

I like the popular but very tasty gelato at il Gelato di San Crispino near the Trevi fountain. Honey pear was memorable.

My favorite thing in Rome: soaking up the vibe in a cafe. Can't get enough!
Have a great trip.

wrenwood, the market will be over as soon as you'll get to Campo dei Fiori. Just move that visit to another day, the market is worth it.

Difficult to imagine that anyone speaks English at Alfredo e Ada... you'll be able to say and understand at least a few words in Italian, won't you? You need that elsewhere, too!!! Btw, what do you mean you "finally" found it? I gave you the link to the thread with all the necessary addresses!

<what other churches have Michelangelo's works?>
Well, S. Pietro in Vincoli of course, that's why you want to go there, no? S. Pietro in Vaticano, obviously, and the Sistine Chapel. And the church of S. Maria degli Angeli doesn't HAVE works by Michelangelo but IS a work by Michelangelo (not his very best, perhaps).

On Via Appia, there's never any traffic except for the first stretch - the rest is pedestrianized.

And since you're staying near Campo dei Fiori, don't miss S. Girolamo della Carità, one of Rome's best "minor" churches. A plain baroque church with two anything-but-plain side chapels, one by Borromini (stunning marble imitations of precious textiles), one by Filippo Juvarra (one of Torino's two great baroque architects, and this is his only preserved Roman work as far as I know). Baroque at its very best!!

Is the Market open on Sunday and Monday mornings? Those are the 2 days I have nothing scheduled in the morning.

And sorry Franco, yesterday when I tried to google Alfredo e Ada it kept coming up with chippy.com or something bizarre. I then found the address on your thread. And no, we don't speak any Italian, we'll know the barest of tourist words. We had never really thought about going to Italy until my sister-in-law who sometimes travels with us said that Italy was one place she had always wanted to go. Now we are very excited about it!

Put S. Girolamo della Carità on one of my Google Map, thanks. And I think maybe we could squeeze in San Clemente on Day 2. If not, maybe on our unscheduled day, or if we do the Appian way.

I did order the Streetwise Roma Map. Had it on my wishlist at Amazon and had forgotten about it, so thanks for the reminder!

I'm using a Frommers Book "Rome Day by Day". It has some nice walks in it which I'm using to make my own walks on Google Maps, adding suggestions from Fodorites! I even have a "Gelato Map" and San Crispino and Giolitti are both on it. Honey pear sounds wonderful! However I think we'll skip the flaming cocktails!

Question on closing and opening hours. We can be flexible, but it would be a shame to miss something if it can be avoided. We'll be in the more touristy areas, but maybe not at high season (October) I know there's no real answer to the question of how many shops close for a few hours in the afternoon, just wondering about other's experiences.

I'm trying to mention only things no one else has mentioned; sorry if I repeat.

On Day 2 you could exit the Forum by climbing up the back way to the Capitoline Museums. From the terrace there is a great view of the Forum. I enjoyed visiting the museums too -- lots of sculpture. You could also climb up to the top of the monument to Victor Emmanuel II for an even better view of the Forum and Piazza Venezia.

At the end of Day 3 you might be able to squeeze in a visit to Castel Sant'Angelo if you're not too tired. It has wonderful views from the top too of the Vatican and Ponte Sant'Angelo -- and you can see the angel close-up.

If you like art, when you visit Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, you could visit San Luigi Francesi, which is nearby and has magnificent Caravaggio paintings.

On Day 4 after you visit Galleria Borghese, you could walk through the gardens to the belvedere overlooking Piazza Popolo. The view is great, then you can go down the steps to Santa Maria del Popolo, another church with great Caravaggio paintings.

You might also might wish to visit San Giovanni Laterano, the cathedral of Rome. It is a beautiful church, in my opinion actually prettier inside than St. Peter's.

wrenwood,

the "famous" fruit and veg market is weekdays and sats only; on sunday there is a "flea" market.

2 additional sightseeing suggestions (if you have not previously been there);
(1) he Keyhole of Malta on Aventine Hill (Ron in Rome has a good post on it and how to get there);
(2)Museo Dell’Ara Pacis - one of my favorite sights in Rome.

We had both lunch and dinner at Roscioli on Via dei Giubbonari we loved it so much. Next time I am in Rome I am going to stop there to get supplies for lunch and/or dinner for 1 night - their dried tomatoes are out of this world!

There is no traffic on even the upper part of the Appian Way on Sundays so that is a good time to visit there and the Catacombs. But other days are fine, too, as long as you don't try to walk the upper part.

Other places to go for good views of Rome: Piazzale Garibaldi on the Janiculum and the Pincio Gardens above Piazza del Popolo. Santa Maria del Popolo has some outstanding art.

If you go to the Janiculum you can walk downhill to Trastevere, another good neighborhood to explore. It can be combined with the Jewish ghetto neighborhood across the Tiber mentioned in another thread. Both have good restaurants and are not far from the area where you are staying.

In general be sure to check the hours that churches are open. Most close at midday for several hours.

Hello! This itenerary looks great!
I am going to Rome very soon as well and excited to see I am doing some similar stops as you.
Can I ask what hotel you are staying at?

Keep in mind that many churches (only 263 Catholic ones in Rome) will close in the afternoon. The Rome tourism website has hours listed. Click on the church you are interested in and the next page will have the hours. Hours can and do change so take this as a rough guide.
http://www.060608.it/en/cultura-e-svago/luoghi-di-culto-di-interesse-storico-artistico/cattolici

If you are interested in non-Catholic churches:
http://www.060608.it/en/cultura-e-svago/luoghi-di-culto-di-interesse-storico-artistico

kybourbon,

What a great site to have! Mille grazie!

It don't think we will lack for beautiful churches! It looks like I will need to do a Church Map also.

jaimepom, we chose to stay at an apartment which is on Via dei Banchi Vecchi, so can't help you with Hotels, but there is lots of info here, and on TA. I did decide that the Campo de'Fiori and Piazza Navona area was a good area for convenience, walking and atmosphere.

Good to know ekc that you liked Roscioli so much. I'm looking forward to the store/bakery and the Restaurant! Will grab some some dried tomatoes also!

Vttraveler ~ how does one "visit" the Catacombs? We pay? We just walk in? Audio tour or no? I looked at Context Tours for Appian way, but decided it was a little much, and maybe we just wanted to walk the Appian Way.

I'm beginning to think that to see Campo de'Fiori Market in full swing, we'll go on Monday morning. Thursday when we arrive, rather than hustle out of our apartment, I think we'll take time to unpack, take showers and take naps. There is supposedly a wine bar right across the street, so we can have a glass of wine to toast our arrival, and then head out on our walking tour, finishing at shops on the way back towards the apartment, with dinner at one of the places close by.

And kybourbon, thanks for that site, I would never had thought to search for something like that.

DAY 1 dinner - http://www.ristorantesangallo.com/

Excellent food, atmosphere (get an outdoor table if weather is nice) and located on the super-charming Via dei Coronari. Restaurant is very close to Piazza Navona.

We went to the Catacombs of San Callisto, but i think the others have similar visits. There are scheduled tours at the site in different languages--frequent ones in English. You cannot tour on your own.
We took the archeobus (one of the official touristhop on/hop off routes) but it is also possible to get to the Appian Way and catacombs via regular public transit. I have heard the archeobus can get very crowded at times. An advantage of taking that bus is that you can also go out to more remote sections of the Appian Way and some of the major aqueducts along the route.

wrenwood, your first day/night sounds nice. If memory serves, Thursday is the traditional night a lot of restaurants in Rome feature gnocchi, so keep that in mind as you look for a dinner place (if you like gnocchi!).

I thought Pierluigi was great - ate there twice during my last trip to Rome.

Right before you get to Pierluigi there is a small square with a grocery store that has a good selection of foods. I was surprised at the choices for what looks like a small store. There's also a take out pizzeria next to the grocery store.

Thanks for the restaurant tips and also about the small store and Pizzeria near Pierluigi. It's always nice to know when someone has actually been to a place.

AND GNOCCHI!!!! We will definitely remember that for Thursday!

I'm still wondering how to visit the Appian Way. I guess there are also parts that are better than others? How to get there and where to start?

Here is a link with directions to the Appian Way
http://www.parcoappiaantica.it/en/testi.asp?l1=1&l2=2&l3=1&l4=0

If you go to the home page for this web site you will get a lot of information about the different things to see

We ate at Pierluigi and loved it. It was one of our most expensive meals while in Rome, but it is a speical place with lots of interesting items on the menu. Their specialty is seafood, which they do very well.

Ristorante Cleto is where we ate after our Antica Roma tour with Context. I had researched it a bit and when our guide said it is where her family eats on Sundays sometimes, we decided to give it a try. Nice antipasto.

Don't miss San Clemente or St. Peter in Vincoli.

Cremeria Monteforte serves lucious gelato right across from the Pantheon.

Leave your free time for mini adventures - there is something to see around every corner.

San Clemente and St. Peter in Vincoli are on the radar, and thanks for the website for the Appian Way, VERY helpful! And I doublechecked, Cremeria Monteforte is on my Gelato Map!

I think we may eat at Pierluig, Roscioli, Ditirambo or Al Bric the first night, as they are in the locale of our walk.

Amywiss, Monday is still unscheduled, and so is Sunday morning!

I posted this on your other thread a while back, but walking up the Aventine Hill and spending some time at and around the Santa Sabina is very much worthwhile. It is lovely and quiet.