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I certainly could write a book each and every time I visit Italy and, actually, I do, if you consider my daily diary. The library in my studio contains over fifteen years worth of pocket notebooks (Clairefontaine is my current favorite) and, God willing, still counting.
For this trip, I traveled with three photographers, Marc, Tre, and Abbey, who helped me with research. The following notes are a sampling from our three-week adventure.
ROMA:
AIR/CAR TRAVEL - We flew Delta (Marc and I in Business and Tre and Abbey in Coach), and the experience is nowhere near as glamorous as Air France, especially in Coach. Delta's fleet seems older, less sophisticated, and the interior colors drab and sullen. The Coach seats are thin and pretty standard. This was a 2-4-2 configuration and the plane was packed. Also, this plane offered very few TV screens (three each section) and passengers got annoyed when service personnel blocked the view (it's hard to look away when the movie is "Seabiscuit"). Air France offers a screen at each seat, even in Coach.
Delta's flight attendants, especially the women, need serious head-to-toe make-overs and my sources tell me that talented designer, Richard Tyler, will soon rise to the occasion and design new uniforms. (Couldn't happen any sooner.) And, sometimes, service wasn't so friendly. The food was airplane food, prepared by chef NASA.
The Captain asked everyone to avoid congregating in the aisles or around the bathrooms and we were asked to use the bathrooms closest to our seats. No "Class" hopping bathroom visits. (Since I was the only person in Business visiting Coach, I endured the "tightened security" stares.)
We did change planes at CDG and went from E to F for the connection but the walk remained about a mile. The new terminal is an architectural masterpiece even though some of the high-tech graphics were ill-conceived and are not user-friendly. Security was evident everywhere.
SleepInItaly's car service is 48 Euro, a regular car with adequate room for two people and luggage. I can also recommend Airport Connection Service, http://www.airportconnection.it, which offers a variety of car/van services into the city-center at reasonable rates. I often need a van for camera/lighting equipment.
WEATHER - December '03 brought a mixture of sun and rain but mostly rain and, at times, there were downpours like I've never before seen in Rome, lasting for days at varied intensity. Rome was also quite cold, hovering just above freezing. Marc and I travel with good umbrellas but Abbey forgot hers and Tre didn't care about getting wet, at least, initially. Abbey bought a 5 Euro cheapo umbrella from a street kid near my apartment at the Farnese but that quickly became useless as it blew inside out within minutes on Vittorio Emanuale. She ended up buying a better, larger one, 12 Euro, from a store on Via Panetteria, across from Geleteria San Crispino. She and Tre ended up sharing it. The rain and wind made working in Rome difficult.
Long underwear (Italian cashmere for me), leather pants, wool socks, waterproof shoes, layered clothing, cashmere scarfs, warm hats and warm gloves were definitely de rigeur. Tre and Abbey wore mostly jeans and the back legs took a real beating straight up the calf, especially since these two had cut the cuffs to be fashionable. (They're in their early 20's.) I helped them with several loads of laundry because their jeans cleaned Rome's streets. Disgusting.
ACCOMMODATIONS:
Tre and Abbey stayed at Albergo del Senato, I stayed at my apartment next to the Farnese, and to test SleepInItaly.com, Marc booked one of their apartments.
SLEEPINITALY.COM
We agreed to give them an "A" for service and satisfaction. Giulia Amato and Anna Trevi, who run SleepInItaly, were very helpful throughout the process. Their English is good and they manage quite a few properties, which is very difficult work for such a small team. The secret to getting better service is to call them directly and not rely on e-mail. Too many people e-mail (many inane questions) because it's cheaper than a phone call. They simply don't have enough manpower or time to handle all the e-mail. Those who call get the best apartments, especially for busy seasons.
Marc tried to get a flat closer to me at the Farnese but our requirements were rigid and we had only three-months advance notice of a major holiday. We wanted a quiet apartment with light and character, on a higher floor with an elevator, mostly to serve photographic needs. Marc went back and forth with several phone calls (they called him twice) before he settled on the VIA LAVATORE one-bedroom, just off the Trevi. Everything closer to the Farnese that fit the bill had already been booked.
Taken from Marc's notes: "The Signore who was there to handle business didn't speak one word of English. The business was straight forward and went as expected. A 20% deposit had been previously charged to a Visa card and the remaining balance paid in Euro. All our numbers were in synch. He handed me a basic form paper to fill out and my Passport number was required. Signore left two sets of keys (without asking), showed me how they worked, and offered a quick run-through of the apartment. He demonstrated how the kitchen gas-burners work (match required). He did not mention anything about how to control heat, hot water, use the washing machine or dispose of garbage and I forgot to ask. My Italian is not advanced enough to say these things anyway. I managed to figure most things out, eventually."
If you don't know any Italian and you wish the adventure of renting a flat in Italy, learn some Italian vocabulary and make sure you're prepared to mention most of these things when the keys to your flat are surrendered. Even if the person who greets you speaks no English, you should be able to understand the response by watching the infamous, Italian gesticulations.
VIA LAVATORE DESCRIPTION - Looking at the Trevi, Via Lavatore is on your right and sort of runs parallel with Via Tritone. The apartment building is located near Via Scavolino (not on some maps), right across from a newish wine bar called, Il Chianti (looks like fun). A new restaurant called, Taberna, just opened on the ground floor of the apartment building (attracting much tourist attention but, to me, looked tacky and over-priced).
The Lavatore building has a tiny elevator which barely fits two people (without luggage). Several trips are necessary if more than one person stays here. Marc doesn't recommend using the old, stone stairs, especially when it rains. This one-bedroom apartment is on the 4th floor (hit 3 in the elevator and turn right upon exiting). You enter the apartment through two large, wooden doors into a well-lit foyer (about 5'x7'). On your right is a decent kitchen that has its own French door with glass panes and a side glass-panel detail along the right of the door frame. The French doors don't work much with the kitchen's interior decor (which is a bit 70's) but it's cute, nonetheless. By NYC standards, the kitchen is large with just enough equipment to prepare easy meals. There were some commonly used grocery items with good shelf life in the spacious cupboards. There is no oven, no microwave, no toaster, or toaster oven. The refrigerator/freezer is full-size and the small Bialetti needs to be replaced. Off the kitchen is an enclosed terrace, housing the washing machine, hot-water tank, some chairs, and cleaning supplies.
Straight ahead as you stand in the entrance door (and one step up) you see the fairly large bathroom with bidet, toilet, large sink and full-size tub (Marc is tall so this came in handy). The tub offered three fixtures for water; one to fill the tub, one to stand under for a shower, and a hand held sprayer with its own controls. Marc said water pressure was good and he never ran out of hot water.
To the right of the bathroom, on the same platform, is the small bedroom, which features one queen-size bed, lots of built-in storage, two bed-side lamps, and its own tiny terrace looking out onto the backs of other residential buildings.
To the left of the entrance foyer is the living/dining room; a spacious 16'x16' room, featuring two sets of tall windows which open in to view Via Lavatore. Cleverly designed built-in cabinetry (with plenty of room to store much luggage) fills up one entire wall. The living room ceiling is at least 14' high. There are two large couches in the living room, one more tattered than the other. The newer one is a sofa bed. There is a round dining table with chairs suitable for four.
The entire apartment has wall-to-wall, honey-toned wood flooring in excellent condition. The wood is slat style, laid in an adjoining "L" shape pattern, a nice decorative touch. The bedroom and the living room each have very large (5'x8'), gold-framed mirrors on a wall that add a marvelous antique feel to the place and make both rooms seem even larger. Towels for bath, paper towels, toilet paper, sheets, pillows, cases, blankets (even one Down) and soap supplies were abundant.
Via Lavatore is a pretty active street leading directly to the Trevi Fountain. Therefore, anyone who sleeps in the living room has to deal with the most noise. If you close the windows and the shutters, the apartment is quiet. There is minimal vehicular traffic (yes, taxis and cars can pull up directly to the door) but crowds of people walk this street much of the day into night. There is a public parking garage just a few doors down.
The Trevi is one of Rome's most popular fountains. It's far enough away for the sound to be muted but there, nonetheless. Tre slept on the sofa-bed one night and, with earplugs, he said he slept well. Marc had to keep the windows open 24/7 because the heat in the apartment was excessive.
Peace and quiet here becomes a greater concern in warmer seasons because I don't think this apartment is air-conditioned. Marc said the cross breeze is intense but what do you do about the noise from the street in warmer seasons? Another plus - there's no lengthy direct sunlight hitting the building so I expect the interior stays relatively cool in warmer months. For a city-center apartment, Marc found the bedroom remarkably quiet. He did mention the sound of garbage haulers and church bells, which seem to chime every hour in Rome, if not every fifteen minutes. I ALWAYS travel with earplugs.
To be continued...
ROME & VENICE - 2004 DIARY by NYCFoodSnob, Part 1
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This is great. I have always liked and agreed with your posts, being a NYC food snob myself. Your detail is amazing. Do you show your photos in NY? I would love to see them. Also, FoodSnob, are you a member of the James Beard House? If you aren't, I know you would love it. Can't wait to read the rest!
ALBERGO DEL SENATO
Finally, the interior decorators got it right and you will smile from ear to ear the moment you enter this bright, warm and beautiful Albergo. The del Senato is riding the crest of a very successful opening and they have good reason to be proud and raise its rates. Is there a grander place to stay in Rome's most central location?
The del Senato brings a new chic customer to this ancient Rome piazza and boy are they happy. While the Minerve continues to service its stately-set in a grand yet stuffy style, the del Senato goes all-out Hollywood (more Bev Hills than West H.) by creating an environment conducive to people who recognize and appreciate a good decorator and who know how to have fun.
Albergo del Senato has the feel of an intimate Renaissance palace. It's a fairly big building but the interior is so soft and cozy, you can't help but feel you're at home. The color choices are among my favorites; muted salmons, pale yellows, linen creams, bright whites, olive greens, with splashes of cobalt blue and pale violets. It's easy to think of the del Senato as one chic gelato geleteria or a creation of Martha Stewart-meets-Mario Buatta. Many of the walls feature beautiful fabrics and the all-wood floors (in the luxe section of the building only) add to its glowing warmth. You get terra cotta in the less-luxe section. The circular marble staircase is a very elegant feature.
We tried to secure and get into a suite but none were available. They're the biggest draw for travelers who really like to pamper themselves but we soon found out suites are in short supply here. The bread and butter of this operation relies on the doubles and the ones without a view are for tourists who really don't intend to spend much time in their room.
We secured Room's 304 and 305, located in the front/center of the building, facing Piazza della Rotonda with the Pantheon in plain view. Room 304 is slightly larger than 305 due to a tiny and useless foyer as you enter. We were stunned by the actual size of these rooms. We measured two feet on either side of the double bed and two feet at the foot of the bed before you brushed up against the antique chest of drawers. Very small. Each room comes with a unique security entryway, fully electronic and very cool.
Both rooms were incredibly quiet. Whoever did the windows did a marvelous job. The only problem for me was the claustrophobic feeling I got with the windows closed. The moment you open them, in comes the noise. I'm a huge fan of fresh air and this could be a problem here.
The bathrooms are pretty and feature mostly white marble and a full tub. Each tub has a unique, art deco style glass enclosure. The bathrooms are roomier than most hotel baths in Rome and this was a smart design decision.
Service is lovely at the del Senato and the gentlemen orchestrating the show are divine. The views from the public terrace on the roof are terrific even though it was too cold and wet to enjoy. I highly recommend getting a room with your own private terrace in warmer weather (6th floor only). This is the only way to live.
tbc...
Enjoying your detailed report. I can't agree more with your last sentence. We have stayed in Room 602 (the Senior Suite with private terrace) twice and loved it. Even a free suite at the Hassler wouldn't tempt me away from staying in 602.
Albergo del Senato has a great web site too. Check it out if you're interested...
www.albergodelsenato.com select the flash version for an even cooler effect.
Can't wait to read the rest of your report...enjoying it so much thus far!
~Allison
Reading your post brings me back wonderful memories of Rome and my stay in the Albergo del Senato in November 2002. What a beautiful hotel! Thanks for sharing this with us.
Who needs pictures? These descriptions are so clear that I can picture everything you talk about. Great posts. I look forward to more.
NYCFoodSnob, someday we're going to ask you how you categorize and index all those journals!
Thanks for the elaborate description of the Albergo Del Senato. We've booked that hotel for our late September trip and now after reading your summary, I can hardly wait!
Thanks for posting NYCFS. It's great to read. I'm sure you'll be inundated with questions but I have a few so far about the apartment.
I'm curious to know whether you feel the apt was worth whatever you paid & how it compares to others. Who have you used (if anybody) for rentals in the past? How did this rental compare with previous experiences. You say there was no oven, microwave or toaster. Was there a burner for boiling water??
Marvelous! More, please!
NYCFoodSnob - How do you find the time/energy to document everything so thoroughly!!?? I promised myself on my 2nd African safari to write in a journal every day. I started off doing it right for the first few days but after that was too busy or tired. Of course, now I regret it. Maybe I need one of your "current favorite" journals! Mine was definitely too small.
I have enjoyed reading your diary and look forward to the good stuff -
Too much minutiae, not up to your standard. Your Delta uniform insider stuff has been all over the media for weeks. Delta staff wonder why a new sexy uniform will help their $3B loss last year.
sundowner, I start a journal on every trip and most of the time they trail off after a few days. What I have learned, and am trying to put into practice with mixed results, is that in order to succeed you must (MUST!!) carve out the time to write in it. Schedule 15 minutes every morning or before going out to dinner, or plan an hour of "down time" every few days to catch up.
Easier to rationalize the time when it's part of your job, like NYCFS, and more difficult when it takes time away from sightseeing or shopping or just putting your feet up. But it's a matter of making a firm commitment and sticking to the discipline.
I'm enjoying this trip report and can't wait for the next installment. A lot of these details, especially about the accommodations, are just the sorts of things I like to know.
Terrific description of the Del Senato. It brought back memories of our stay there last September. In warm weather the rooftop bar is spectacular. We are headed back there again this September
Assolutamente favoloso!!! Signora NYCFS is a diamond.
What will it take to get you to share all your diaries with me, foodiedearest? Leave it to a photographer to comprehend and appreciate exacting attention to detail. Do you work in film, by any chance?
Where is the beef? Please don't tell us your restaurant adventures are off limits. Curious minds are salivating with anticipation and we want to know.
More! More!
You can't stop now, NYCFS. Ok, you can do whatever you want, I just wanna ask you to please continue with the next parts. I have not been reading this site much for lately, but did catch this thread the other day and have become a bit possessed with looking for updates. Hey, this post is my first (had never even registered) in well over a year: look what you've done!
So, right now I will ask politely. Tomorrow, I will begin my campaign! I live in Italy (expat) and you certainly do it justice with your diary. Continue already.........
P.S. to the other readers out there, Sorry for topping this only to see it's just me asking for more and not the 'more' you were hoping for. Join me in my gentle harassment
k_louise, you'll be lucky to survive the onslaught that may accuse you of being me. Fasten your seat belt, darling...
What kind and gracious words from strangers, indeed. Thank you all. The food installment is coming. I had a house guest the past six days who deserved my undivided attention. Back to writing. See you soon.
I just booked a room at the Del Senato for June after reading this email....thanks so MUCH! You are truly a gem for writing this. Look forward to more...
Ok, I am fastened. Don't give a flying....! Better you beware of you being accused of being me. Huh? Now I'm lost. Anyway, good to hear it. Don't have to turn into PITA.
when do we get to hear about Venice?
I'm waiting for the jewelry news, myself. Is it with bated or baited breath?
LOOK how patient I've (we've) been. It appears I am going to have to turn into that pain I threatened to become. It's almost a week since I asked - c'mon! I need something good to read. Does that tell you how pitiful my life is, or what?!?
And I'm leaving for Italy in ten days! I'm running out of time to learn from an expert.
(insert crocodile tears here)
I just want to know how some "famous designer" can do a makeover on what is basically ugly and make them look like something other than "ugly made over"..and I, ahem, assume you were talking about Delta's MALE flight attendants were you not?????
Well, JonJon, just a quick aside since "Rome Food" is almost "in the can." (Sorry everyone, I've met a new man and I'm dating again. Thank God he's not gay...yet.)
Actually, the two men in Business/First were very well groomed and quite handsome. One featured a marvelously bald pate on a great shaped head and the other had a meticulous clipper cut. But, everyone knows men have it much easier than women, especially when it comes to styling.
There was one woman who had chestnut colored hair swept beautifully into a classic French twist. Her skin was flawless, her make-up was well done, her French was superb, and her smile had the power to melt the most obnoxious customer into putty.
On the other hand, the mid-fifties, Gennifer Flowers wannabe, with a tacky ponytail hairpiece cascading down the middle of her back that didn't match her over-processed frosting-from-Florida was a sight to behold. No woman in her fifties should be THAT blonde or wearing her hair up in a pulled-to-the-crown fake ponytail, a hairstyle only suitable for a fourteen-year-old or a street hooker from Arkansas. All the other women fell somewhere in between.
Even with a lovely face and hair style, those uniforms are downright ugly and, hopefully, the very talented Richard Tyler will change that (and maybe the interior of those ugly planes).
PS I don't recall ever seeing a tacky-looking flight attendant on Air France.
FOOD IN ROME
Ah yes, my favorite subject. Well, to help those who decide to stay in the Via Lavatore apartment or in the area of Trevi/Spanish Steps, Marc noted: "To the left of the Trevi Fountain runs a street called Via Poli. There you will find a small grocery store on the right just before you get to Via Tritone. They have a condensed selection of groceries but items are less expensive here than if you go to any alimentari or salumeria around the Trevi."
"If you cross Via Tritone and take Via Poli to Via Pozzetto, you will be in front of "Despar" (119-124 Via Pozzetto), a large and fun "supermercato" which services the residents of this area. Prices are pretty good here and they offer a wonderful wine/liquor selection downstairs, where many wonderful bottles were on sale. (Prosecco, €11 - Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, €21)."
Speaking of groceries, if you haven't tried Spremuta d'Arancia il rosso di Sicilia (blood orange juice), be sure and pick up a carton from the juice cooler on your next visit to Italy. I haven't decided which is my favorite brand but I have no problem drinking any of them. Also, if you love fresh squeezed orange juice (my favorite), simply ask for "spremuta d'arancia" at your local cafè. If you're lucky, they'll have a juicer and they won't mind the preparation.
My two favorite brands of yogurt are Müller and Ehrmenn. I think these are in a class by themselves and offer no comparison to any yogurt product I've tasted in America. Even if you're not a yogurt fan, you'll definitely want to give these a try. The Germans seem to know great tasting yogurt and many Italians savor these two brands.
If you take your home-made coffee with half-and-half, like I do, you'll want to pay close attention to what the dairy carton says. Latte is "whole milk" and is richer than what we get here in the U.S. and will work just fine. (Try whisking it as you bring it to a boil before adding it to your caffè.) It's fairly easy to tell which cartons offer less fat than "whole."
For cream lovers, some cartons say "Panna" which could be the liquid form of "heavy cream" and will also work fine (although quite rich, you can dilute with milk). Be careful, some cartons (small) of "Panna" are actually filled with whipped cream, so be sure to shake to see if you have liquid.
Ideally, you'll want to look for the carton that reads, "Panna Latte," which is Italy's version of half-and-half and is delightfully delicious, especially when licked off a naked body. Not every store carries this item (or the naked body). I have a very famous celebrity friend who pours a pint of this in her tepid bath (no soap) as she soaks for 15 minutes. She's been doing this for years and you should see her skin.
It's no secret I'm a huge fan of Italian coffee beans. You can easily spot me in the morning at Bar Farnese (via dei Baullari 20), flirting with all the handsome Italian men before they venture off to work (my favorite way to start the day!). I've met several charming ex-pat families at Bar Farnese who come for the delicious house brew of Morganti Gran Reserva (I never leave Italy without a few tins). Bar Farnese is a tiny hole in the wall with only two tables and the feeling is all local. In truth, owner Signore Falconi is the real draw. He's got to be the sweetest, happiest, most charming man in Italy. I adore him. (Unfortunately, he's married and way too short for me.) The only catch is he doesn't speak English but he'll be so happy to serve you, nonetheless.
Sant' Eustachio has a whole new high-end marketing thing going on, one wonders if Eisner bought the place. They're still packing them in (Italians love tradition and folklore and tourists "in love with anything status Italian" follow suit) but I sense the bean's flavor has changed with the chic packaging, although it's still very, very good. I have to admit I'm leaning towards Tazzo D'Oro as my favorite coffee flavor in Rome. It simply tastes most pure. Tazza d'Oro is also jammed but you can expect a much less pretentious experience. At Tazza d'Oro, it's all about the beans and less about the show. Some say marketing is everything (and I almost always agree) but, when it comes to my favorite coffee, it's all about the flavahhhh...
When I'm dressed up and feeling grand (quite often), I head straight to Gran Caffè La Caffettiera, my favorite cafè in Rome. They recently opened a new location at Piazza di Pietra, which is fun, but my heart lies at their flagship operation on via Margutta. Yes, this place is a little pricey and I prefer to be well-dressed when I go. But the truth is, not many tourists know about it and it's a bit intimidating to the average, back-packing foreigner (which is just fine by me). However, after a long day of shopping and sightseeing, if you like your caffè, tè, dolci, and/or cocktail served in a "precious atmosphere" full of Romans and high-end internationals this is the place to go.
I'm also mad for the merry mayhem at the infamous Antica Enoteca di via della Croce. I know the place is dreadfully smoky (even though they have high ceilings and a no-smoking room in the back) but the hustle and bustle of energy here can't be beat. The wine selection is good and the food isn't bad (they're famous for their French Fries) and it's all reasonably priced. The crowd tends to be younger but I love that, and us "hip" older folk fit right in and our wisdom is welcome. This is not the place to go if you're looking for peace and quiet but, what fun, if you want to get "buzzed" and soak up some high-energy, local flavor.
Even more local flavor can be found at the much smaller (and smokier) Antico Caffè della Pace in one of Rome's most picturesque (read: trendy) locations. In spite of the smoke, I do like it here, mostly because the regulars are quite the colorful group who enjoy the very old-world charm of this small, darkish watering hole. You won't be able to identify many by name but this is a favorite hang-out for Roman artists and celebrities. When you're done here, you can go next door and eat at Trattoria della Pace, owned by the same owner and featuring pizza and pastas prepared with delicious Southern Italian flair.
Speaking of pizza, this is a big subject in Italy these days and that's a good thing. I don't care what anybody from New York, Chicago, or California has to say, I'm convinced the best pizza is made in Italy (and some of the worst pizza is made in New York). If I had to list just one reason to visit Naples it would be to eat their pizza. Nobody does pizza like a pizzaiolo in Napoli. (I considered writing a diary from my trip to Naples this past October but much of that trip was a disaster, I couldn't muster the energy to relive it. All I can say is be wary of American Airlines and never fly Alitalia. The opera company put my assistants on these airlines and I couldn't get it changed. After three confirmations, American lost (had no record of) the reservations (they had to go out the following day) and the Alitalia connection lost their luggage (clothing, lights, and camera equipment with a $600 overweight fee). It took three days to get it all back (it had gone to Spain) and Air France, my carrier, actually came to our rescue but I still lost two, very valuable shoot days. The end.)
I like my Pizza crust thin and crispy but, more important than bulk-less crunch, pizza dough MUST be full of flavor and reign supreme on the palate without ingredients. Thankfully, many resident Italians know how to accomplish this and I think local ingredients and the expertise of the Italian pizzaiolo are the secret (although many believe it might be the water). Savoring and craving the flavor of the crust is just as important to me as enjoying quality toppings, and the toppings available in Italy are often the best of Italian cucina. When the pizzaiolo gets the combination right, savory fireworks of flavor explode with each bite.
I don't have a "favorite" place for pizza because I'm always ready and willing to try anything newly recommended. Even when the pizza is just OK (very rare among my list of favorites), it's still far superior to anything I've eaten in NYC. But, there is this place on via Baullari, one or two alleys in from Vittorio Emanuale on the right, that I go to over and over again. It's another small hole-in-the-wall on the corner with only six small tables but, at lunch time, it's 30 people deep ordering from the most tasty rectangular, flatbread selections sold by the meter. I've been watching working locals grab a quick lunch here for many years. Every day they offer a small variety of pasta dishes, as well, and their meat lasagne is among the best I've ever tasted. I'm not sure this place has a name because I've never noticed one. It's a neighborhood institution and I've been eating here so long, I don't register the event in my notes.
tbc...
More, more....(from a kindred coffee lover). Are you into gelato?
Hi NYCFoodSnob,
Thanks for the trip reports, I'm really loving them. Have you ever posted reports for other places in Italy?
I think the the Trevi Fountain grocery store you spoke of is the very same as my favourite, and they have a web site
http://web.tiscali.it/riposati/
I discovered it when I got home with a a bag full of panforte and found the bag had the url on it.
Great store, and they make very nice 'rolls' filled with yummy Italian meats and salad, wonderful to eat while watching the passing parade at the Trevi.
Thanks again, can't wait to read the rest of the report.
Congaratulations on the New Man and a great report!
Sorry, Koshka. In addition to the info from M, be sure to walk via d. due Macelli, via d. Propaganda Fide, and via Capo le Case, all located near the Spanish Steps. Also, in Old Rome, check out via d. Cappellari and via d. Giubbonari.
In Cannaregio, too, be sure to walk Rio Tera Lista Di Spagna, Rio Tera Leonardo, and Rio Tera Maddalena. You can continue along the Strada Nova if you wish. Many locals shop in Cannaregio. Salute!
NYCFoodSnob, I can't decide which I value more, your opinions about travel or your wonderfully insightful comments on human nature. However, I have been waiting patiently for the Venice portion of this travel diary, as I depart on Monday. Is it posted separately and I have missed it? I would love to follow in some of your Venetian footsteps next week!
Based on your high recommendation, we are booking del Senato. Now what is your recommendation for the best carbonara?
mama mia, great report.
We booked the apartment Via in Arcione through the site SleepinItaly.
SleepinItaly were quite efficient and courteous but I was not happy with sending my credit card details through email ��� sure enough within a few days,
a) my email address was receiving spam email. Since it is a private address I never expose to anything, in 3 years I have had not a single spam email.
b) someone tried to use my credit card fraudulently in another country. My bank cancelled it (5 days before I left on my trip) and called me with details.
It appears to me SleepinItaly is not secure.
The apartment we booked was not secure either. Thieves came in during the night through the kitchen window (no bars) and stole our camera. They will probably get $50 for the camera yet ironically I would have paid $1,000 for the priceless photos on it. I wondered how they got in since we were not on ground level ��� sure enough, the restraunt below had a door under our window. When they lock up at 1am, there is a huge metal bar grid over the door ��� a ladder, a highway to our window. I imagine thieves rob everyone who stays there. I wouldn���t be surprised if the owners (of the apartment or the restraunt) were in on it.
When reported, the policeman at the single police station (for tourists) complained at all the robberies he had to deal with already. At 11am there were already 30 reports on his desk, from that morning. When we were there, a constant stream of tourists were coming in with reports of stolen wallets, phones, cameras.
The main sites of the city are filled with gypsies trying to sell you junk, or pick your pockets, or sell you donuts for 8euro at streetside cafes. At every moment you are on your guard.
This is a city that needs to clean up its act. Because of the camera stolen, worth $50 to the criminal, we didn���t spend one cent of the $10,000 we had allocated to spending in Rome. And we probably will not return. If the people of the country are too stupid to realise what a blow it is to their economy then they deserve it. It doesn���t take too much imagination to setup stings to catch thieves and jail them.
Magarhe, I never send my credit card details via mail, it is not secure at all and a reliable agency or tour operator should not ask you this type of payment or deposit. When I booked in Rome an holiday apartment by using http://www.leonhouses.com they provided me with two options: credit card on https secure page or bank transfer. The same happened for a flat in Barcelona on http://www.oldbarcelonaflats.com/
Alex_75: "Magarhe, I never send my credit card details via mail,"
I don't think Magarhe will see your advice since she hasn't been on the forums in more than five years.
(How did you even find this thread to top?)