This was the first time I used www.booking.com for Europe and I loved it! It was such an efficient time-saver. No need for back and forth e-mails (with the time delay) with the hotel about things like cancellation policies and availability. I only made refundable reservations.

Being obsessive when it comes to travel planning (half of the fun!), of course I still read all the reviews on Tripadvisor in addition to the booking.com reviews. All reservations were honored, the prices were as quoted, and some apartments were included in the listings. I reconfirmed before leaving, but I don’t think I needed to. Once I had decided on the hotels/apartments, I booked everything in under an hour.

Also, if you use the Tripit App – all the confirmation e-mails from booking.com flow in perfectly – including the price. Tripit keeps a running total on the cost of the trip from the confirmation e-mails you forward. (Nod to the recent topic: Do you really want to know what your trip cost?)

I book one bedroom apartments to give us separate sleeping quarters so we can either sleep in or stay up late without bothering the other person. For us, a central location in a pedestrian friendly area has been key factor to a successful and enjoyable visit to a city or town.

We generally prefer apartment rentals over hotels where possible for the extra space it provides as well as the kitchen facilities – primarily for the ability to make and have coffee first thing in the morning. Coffee is key to a great morning in our home – it is a serious sacred morning ritual. Don’t mess with the coffee, and don’t run out. I took 3 half pound bags of freshly ground coffee with us – neither the B&B nor the Hotel had kettles, but all of the apartments did. We do pour over coffee at home, and were able to do the same in the apartments – I brought the coffee, cones, filters, and s scoop. And, we did almost run out at the end an no my clothes didn't smell of coffee, I put each bag in a ziplock bag.

I made scrambled eggs with smoked pancetta for most breakfasts served along with fruit and yogurt. This trip, we never got tired of eating out for lunch or dinner. Perhaps because an Italian menu was easier for us to decipher? Or, maybe because we never really had a bad meal experience?

Airport Transportation

Somewhere along the line I had written down that these two companies had good reviews:

Rome Cabs 50 euros Paypal in advance or cash – no credit card. http://www.romecabs.com/

Roma Shuttle 45 euros http://www.romashuttle.com/

I first tried Rome Cabs, but I had waited too long & they were booked. I got an email back right away, but they didn't suggest an alternate company.

I then emailed Roma Shuttle, and they confirmed both rides: 45 euros for the pick up and 48 euros for the return (an early pick up @ 5:10 am).

Roma Shuttle was 100% reliable and less expensive, but perhaps they don't have the latest cars. Or perhaps I just booked too late! Our Mercedes on pick up was the oldest in the lot of waiting cars with drivers but the older gentleman gave us a nice narrative tour as we went into Rome. On return we had a large van, but he was parked and waiting outside our apartment way before the scheduled 5:10 am pickup- which is a priceless comfort!

I am in...

Great price on the airfare! Glad to know I am not alone in my planning dedication and euphoria!

We had good experiences with Rome Cabs....glad the alternative worked out for you.

Dying to hear more, especially Orvieto! We loved it.

you stayed at one of my favorites in Perugia..happy you seemed to like it. You're right,magnifcent location on the top deck of the city. Waiting for the rest of your first report...so far, so very good.
stu

We saved Rome for our second trip to Italy. I was surprised how much I loved it - the energy, the history, the people, the food, the shopping!!! It was fantastic!

I am often asked which I like better, Paris or Rome. I will be interested in your impressions!

Waiting for more ...

Good report so far, and thanks for all the accommodation links.

I like your safety box comment. Italy and France are my Europe safety boxes; I've been thinking about Spain a lot lately. Time for me to get out of the box.

You might consider Sicily someday--very different from the rest of Italy and easy to pair with some time in Roma.

Looking forward to your next installment!

Thanks for the encouragement! I will keep going.

Your report is off to a great start. Looking forward to reading more!

Here are direct links to all the accommodations, plus links to the review sites. After I made the reservations, I continued to monitor the reviews - well because I am like that!

I can recommend them all. But, I don't think I would recommend the Cenci B&B to a first time traveler (only 3 rooms on different floors) because you need to be very independent and there are lots of keys to carry - for the building, elevator, room, floor, and more, and owners don't seem to live on site.


Rome - Cenci B&B:

http://www.cencibedandbreakfast.it/
http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/cenci-b-b.en-us.html?label=gog235jc-city-en-it-orvieto-brand;sid=a1931a25b3c9c3d30b3c0c1c1e5c2608;dcid=2
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g187791-d1816274-Reviews-Cenci_B_B-Rome_Lazio.html

Perugia - Hotel Fortuna:

http://www.hotelfortunaperugia.com/
http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/hotelfortuna_perugia.en.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g187907-d236093-Reviews-Hotel_Fortuna-Perugia_Province_of_Perugia_Umbria.html

Spello - La Residenza dei Cappuccini:

http://www.residenzadeicappuccini.it/eng/homepage/residenza/spello/affitta/camere.php
http://www.tripadvisor.com/VacationRentalReview-g672717-d2086304-La_Residenza_dei_Cappuccini-Spello_Province_of_Perugia_Umbria.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g672717-d2346867-Reviews-La_Residenza_dei_Cappuccini-Spello_Province_of_Perugia_Umbria.html
http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/la-residenza-dei-cappuccini.en-us.html?label=gog235jc-city-it-it-spello-nobrand;sid=a1931a25b3c9c3d30b3c0c1c1e5c2608;dcid=1;srfid=7a9d9933cf1e54f0ef637d3e3a31bf27X8

Orvieto - B&B Michelanegeli:

http://www.bbmichelangeli.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g194843-d2061112-Reviews-B_B_Michelangeli-Orvieto_Province_of_Terni_Umbria.html
http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/b-orvieto.en-us.html?label=gog235jc-city-en-it-orvieto-brand;sid=a1931a25b3c9c3d30b3c0c1c1e5c2608;dcid=2

Rome - Campo de' Fiori Apartment

http://www.vrbo.com/423093

Rome: Cenci B & B (170 Euros)

Right around the corner from the Trevi Fountain. I choose Cenci because it had very good reviews, and looked nice as a one nighter jet lag recovery room. We had the room with the blue-mood lighted shower, a very nice modern bathroom. The one snafu was not getting the wifi password when we checked in – as there was no information in the room.

I choose the Trevi Fountain location because I wanted to be in the historical core, but not too far from Termini Station for the taxi ride to the train station in the morning as we headed off to the three hour train ride to Perugia. And, later our home base would be near the Campo – so this would give me another location to check out.

Based on my one time trip, for a longer term stay I would recommend the Parthenon/Campo/Piazza Navona locations over Trevi/Spanish Steps/Piazzo del Popolo/Vatican locations.

Since we were weren’t arriving in Rome until late in the afternoon – my only plan for that first day was to see the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps (didn’t happen – went the wrong way! Got to see the Parthenon instead) and eat dinner.

Dinner was il Chianti right across the street from the B&B. It has a large outdoor patio – we like outdoor settings – it seems to be a very popular place and the b&b hostess said that guests enjoyed the place. It was good enough that we ate there again when we found ourselves back near the Trevi Fountain on our return to Rome and needed a place to eat.

Facing the Trevi Fountain Il Chianti is to the right – large covered outdoor patio. Via del Lavatore 81

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d786482-Reviews-Il_Chianti-Rome_Lazio.html

Learning from my mistakes:

(1) I Better Get in Shape for this Trip! Exercising:

I decided to prepare for the steep hills and stairs of Umbria about two weeks out. Although of course I had been thinking about it since July. I stupidly overdid it the very first time out injuring one of my knees - a sprained knee ligament– doing some ridiculous stretching. I had felt so great and limber. But the next day, I discovered that I did too much. My knee is still messed up and I can’t wear heels. I have been in shoe shame hell, because I don't (yet) own any flat work appropriate shoes!

Don’t over do it – take it slow – everyone knows that – I know that. I would have been better off doing nothing. Ugh.

I handled the walking/stair climbing on the trip with a combination of (1) Ibuprofen, (2) Voltaren Gel (purchased over the counter in Italy – about 11 euros) (3) knee “peas” ice pack from CVS -- another good reason to have an apartment, and (4) a few vicodin pills. I went to the doc before leaving to have the knee looked at – and we discussed the Voltaren Gel which I read about on a thread here (Thanks Densiea!) for once I got to Italy.

(2) Walking after a Long Plane Ride: Swollen Feet and Shoe Selection:

It was warm when we landed and I switched from my Dansko/Sanita clogs with socks into another pair of Dansko Mary Jane sandals (Sam) with no socks that I thought I had properly worn in. But, what I didn’t account for was that my feet were still swollen from the plane ride. So with the strap of the Mary Jane sandal, the heat, and no socks – I got blisters within an hour. I should have kept on my go to clogs and worn socks.

I am really silently upset with myself – Limping? Blisters? And the trip is just beginning! Plus, upon return to Rome I have a fourth story walk up apartment! My one trip a year – I have never had a walking issue before. Are you kidding me?

Loving this report! Sorry about the shoes and blisters

You speak the truth....I have never had more blisters on my feet than I did in Rome. (And funny that the bandaids I had selcted and sorted did not get in my bag and I got to pay for some at the hotel.....i had to scrub like carzy to get the water proof adhesive off my skin....otherwise dirt would stick to itand look so gross!)

Still reading along!

Looking forward to the rest of your report. Rome is my favorite place in all the world.

Taking the Train to Perugia

In the morning we took a taxi to Termini. With my newly obtained Andrews Federal Credit Union Chip and Pin card (Thanks DebitNM) – now improved with no foreign transaction fee!

http://www.andrewsfcu.org/credit_cards_and_loans/credit_cards/globetrek_rewards.html

I hopefully stepped up to a self-service kiosk to buy the train tickets. It worked! Didn’t ask for a PIN number.

There was a first class option for the first part of the trip which I took – remembering that you did not have to validate in first class, and we would have more space for luggage.

I found the Ron in Rome website super helpful – some of the best nuts and bolts stuff is under “Postings” (How to buy a train ticket, how to ride the bus & metro)

http://www.roninrome.com/site-search

I was feeling pretty smug when I successfully purchased the train tickets, then it went slightly down hill from there.

That leads to:

Learning from my mistakes:

I was looking at the Departure Board and could not see our train (I saw the time 11:28 - but you need to know the last stop! – I think it was Ancona) I think it was also important to know the Train Number to read the Board. I had printed some pages of the schedule from the Trentialia website – but not everything because I was not sure which train we would take. I knew we switched in Foligno and I knew we should get off at the main (second) Perugia stop.

I should have printed all possible options, and then also printed the section with the “information” which shows all the stops along the way so you can gauge where you are.

I looked at the tickets and could not figure anything out: Repeat Look at Board, Look at Tickets, Confusion. Finally, we asked a worker he indicated with his hand that it was really far away. I think it was 1 est track. Where the heck is that? Why can’t it be a normal track number – Why can’t it be plain old “1”. Facing the tracks, that is all the way to the left of the station, and then way the hell down there --past the normal tracks where everyone else is waiting leisurely and all non-panicky for their train ride.

Once we started the long trek down – I didn’t see a validation machine And, my plan to pick up some food for the 2 hour 51 hour train ride failed . Luckily, Cenci provides bottled water in the room, which we took so we had water and I still had some “emergency” food from home.

Ok found the track, now keep walking, of course, looking for the first class section of the train.

Done. On. The Train! Yay!

Next, adventure. The train stops at Orte, First a couple of young girls go by giggling (where they spotters?). Then, a suspicious woman and daughter without luggage or any bags gets on. They sit in the aisle across from us and immediately pull down the shade.

I am now on extra guard. Our messenger bags are on the seats. I am ready for them to try grab and them when the train starts. The train conductor comes up to them, asks for their tickets, and they smile get up and leave.

Lots of people were constantly being kicked off the first class train the entire way.

Later on our way back from Orvieto, that very same woman – this time by herself- got on the train at Orte and handed out the slips of paper – I didn’t touch it watching how the locals just ignored the piece of paper.

Next up – switch trains at Foligno.

Hmmm how do you think that went……

Sarge56 one of your posts led me to that vrbo Rome apartment! Thank you - it was a great apartment.

davispeets,

I am so happy to see your trip report and your writing is terrific! I remember all your planning and can't wait for the rest of this tale....

PS - didn't you take moleskin? That is always my #1 piece of advice!

Hilarious...we nearly died when we realized our train was on that same track! Quite a hike... The validation machines were to your left, not on the train platform.

Still with you,

>>>>There was a first class option for the first part of the trip which I took – remembering that you did not have to validate in first class, and we would have more space for luggage.<<<

FYI - Class has nothing to do with whether you need to validate a ticket or not in Italy. Tickets, first or second class, with reserved seating do not have to be validated. Tickets, first or second class, without reserved seats must be validated.

Kybourbon - thanks for the correction - that would explain the momentary sense of displeasure I felt from the conductor when he checked our tickets before the train left and wrote on them.

Thanks, Denisea for noting that there is a validation machine down there. Should I ever get the dreaded est tracks again - I am so ready for it!

***

OK, we are up from our seats bags in hand well before the stop. The train has been running ahead of schedule. We have had to wait at multiple stops to catch up to the schedule.

But by the time we reach Foligio, of course, the train is now behind schedule. I know the connection time between the two trains was already pretty short.

We get off the train and there is another train on the same platform – but I don’t know what direction it is going in. And, I don’t know how many tracks are at this station – how big is it? We were between the two carriages, so I didn’t see the approach to the train station. There is a lot of activity with passengers on the platform, we are between the two trains, and I can’t see beyond them.

I need to find the electronic tv screen to see what track our next train is leaving from.

Electronic tv screen where are you?

I am looking up and looking – don’t see it.

Ok! Mission: Must. Find. The. Electronic. TV. Screen.

Go down the stairs, through the tunnel, up the other side,– ok found it - it is track 2.

Naturally, that was the train that was right there nicely waiting for us. Just a few steps away.

My husband grabs my bag and we rush back the way we came. My husband is ahead, I see him through the tunnel just starting to head up the last flight of steps back up to the platform. We are looking at each other as I take the last step down – where I promptly fall flat on my face. I am spread eagle on the ground.

He starts to run back. Are you ok? Yes. Yes. Go.

The moment I get up and start running, I hear it: The unmistakable sound of something that could only be our train roaring off.

We go up the last flight of steps and wave goodbye to the train.

The platform is calm and empty.

Immediately I see the departures/arrivals billboard - a huge wooden display board encased in plastic, plain as day, that no one (but me) could possibly miss.

There IS no electronic TV screen – the only thing my brain was willing to see. (In my defense, I am sure people must have been standing all around the billboard completely blocking any possible view of it.)

Oh. And this is a large pre-printed schedule, meaning that the schedule as well as the track must be pretty stable. It probably is always that train on the same platform.

Learning from my mistakes:

1. There just might not be an electronic TV screen.

2. When in a Zen and calm state looking at a billboard and the times aren’t matching -- look on the other side of the billboard. There are two sides: Arrivals and Departures.

There is an upside! Yay! Now we have time to eat something. And, the next train to Perugia is in less than an hour.

The café/bar across the street when you exit the train station has the sweetest workers. They wear Rosie the Riveter style hair scarfs.

It’s a nice place to hang out should you happen to find yourself there one day.

I've rushed around that Foligno train station before (not to mention Roma Termini!). I can't ever seem to get to a train station early enough, so I can certainly relate to your misadventures. Sorry about your fall.

Looking forward to arriving in Perugia.

Why Perugia?

Our Rome airport driver asked as where we going on our travels and I told him in a cheery voice: “Perugia!”

He appeared surprised.

Perugia?!!

Why Perugia?

I thought – uh oh.

I meekly said – because it sounded interesting.

He said he knew Perugia well and he had a home near there. Our Walks of Italy tour guide for the Sistine Chapel was also surprised we had gone to Perugia.

So why Perugia?

When I had been planning a trip to Northern Italy in 2010, that we didn’t end up taking, the one place that kept intriguing me in the trip reports and pictures was Perugia. But that wasn’t in Northern Italy that was in Umbria – and I like to stay more region focused.

Someone wrote that it is a city that they would like to spend time just wandering. That sounds like the kind of place we like – pedestrian wandering!

My post seeking itinerary input back then was entitled: Pedestrian Friendly, Aimless Strolls, Elegant Shopping?

Plus, it was a university town (a plus to us) and the pictures of those walkways/roads there were all steps (pre-knee issue).

And, it’s the capital of Umbria, and we tend to like larger city/towns. Another thing, I heard they might know a thing or two about Chocolate.

So once I decided this trip would be Rome/Umbria focused given that seemed best for our October travel period – Perugia was automatic from the old 2010 research.

We went to Perugia, the furthest destination from Rome, first to get there early enough in October to avoid the crowds and set up for the annual Chocolate Festival – I wanted to see Perugia in its normal state.

@ Dayle - I didn't take moleskin - but I did take Bandaids (which I had to replenish in Perugia - went through them all!). I had some bandaids in my wallet - but the blisters happened so incredibly fast, and I was trying to suffer somewhat silently. I was so upset with myself for the self-inflicted knee injury that I didn't want to admit out loud that I had one more issue and needed to stop and put on some bandaids.

A trip report of a woman who walked the Santiago Trail with blisters was also running through my head - if she could walk for days - I could make it another few minutes until we sat down for dinner.

Really enjoying your report. Sorry to hear of your fall. Looking forward to hearing about Perugia, it's starting to pop up on my radar a bit more often lately, maybe I'll need to start planning an Umbrian adventure!

Reading along with you....dying to know more about Perugia. I had never heard of it before the Amanda Knox case and I am sure there is much more to it!

davispeets, looking forward to your impressions of Perugia. We were there the last week of September.

While I work on my thoughts, here are some photos of our Perugia time:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/19506865@N04/sets/72157631940176024/

davispeets- so glad the apartment turned out great! After all that, I had to cancel my October trip, so I never got to stay there. But I'm thinking that might be my first stop in March when I get there. I just checked the calendar and there is open space!

Unfortunately, I can also relate to the train track thing (we got on the train to Milan instead of Rome, but fortunately figured it out in time to get us and our luggage off just as the train started moving). And.. the face thing. Of course, I fell face first on the cobblestones in Rome and it was a bit more serious. But I do so understand your pain!

Looking forward to seeing what other lessons you learned!

Wowza, I've been to Umbria a few times but never to Perugia. Looks like I've really been missing out. Lovely photos, thanks!

TTT

I really enjoyed the Perugia photos....looks like a great town.

Foligno Train Station - Food Stop: la Cresceria is the name of the cute cafe across the street from the train station. An Italian version of Luke's Diner on the Gilmore Girls/ 50's diner with prepared quick foods, beer, wine, just across the street from the train station. Happy, helpful employees and a nice bathroom. Via Mezzetti 10

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g227667-d2436399-Reviews-La_Cresceria-Foligno_Province_of_Perugia_Umbria.html

Perugia: Hotel Fortuna 
(147 Euros– Executive Double Room with Terrace)

As I stated upthread I think this hotel has an unbeatable location, and such a romantic exterior: the ivy, the hotel signs, the tiny pedestrian street. I loved walking towards the hotel at night – so charming. It does have dated rooms if room aesthetics are a top priority. We had Room 215, it had a small terrace with a lovely countryside view, a seating area, a refrigerator, small safe (too small for an ipad/laptop), a multi-spray shower insert that we couldn’t figure out how to work – so a plain old shower had to suffice. Lots of stairs up and down within the second floor level. Large breakfast room and nice cappuccinos, but it seems you have to ask, it wasn’t offered.

Reading such positive things about this hotel on the forum, it was always going to be my choice, and I couldn’t find many apartment rental options in the center so this was an easy pick. The various public hotel terraces with countyside views were also a deciding factor. Nothing better than relaxing on a hotel terrace with a bottle of wine. While we checked both hotel terraces out, sadly we never found time to use them and one night it rained.

Taxi from train station was 15 euros. Honestly, I would not want to drive up here. The taxi driver hit a call button that allowed the hotel to drop the poles blocking the pedestrian street so he could drive up to the hotel.

We really enjoyed walking around Perugia – many medieval alleys to explore, various view points throughout the town overlooking the countryside in many different directions. I can understand day-trippers being disappointed in Perugia if all they experienced was the difficulty of driving in, parking, and seeing the somewhat severe looking town square with the fountain sounded by a gate. Without delving deeper into the town, down the medieval alleys and sidestreets, the stairways, the interesting door knockers & mail boxes, churches spread out over town, and the many overlook points with views to the countryside, the open park space at the top of town Parco S. Angelo.

Even with 3 nights in Perugia, as I am reviewing everything, I can’t believe how much we still missed. But, the plan was just to wander and walk in a pedestrian friendly town and sit and drink wine, watch people go buy and have a slice of life experience. (We might be lazy travelers.) Perugia certainly met that goal. And, I guess that is reason to go back some day when we find our way back to Umbria.

As a college town there are a lot of young people. At night, there weren’t as many people on the streets as I had expected, I think it was the time of the year and it was mid-week. I had Gubbio down as a possible day-trip if we got bored or didn’t care for Perugia but that didn’t happen.

Resources:

We stopped at Tourist Office on Piazza Matteotti, 18 they sold us a map of Perugia (.50) and a Tourist Guide Booklet for (2.50) which had 5 different walking itineraries that all start in the main Piazza then go in different directions to each of the medieval city gates and back to the Piazza.

The Map is available under “Mappe turistiche” and the Guide under “Itinerari e Guide” at http://turismo.comune.perugia.it/

While the website appears to be in Italian, when you click on the links English versions will be available.

I see a lot more itineraries (gardens/fountains/gates) on this website, which would be great to explore if you spending a hunk of time in Perugia.

GPSmycity has an app for Perugia – the Lite version is free will 9 different walking tours.

http://www.gpsmycity.com/iphone/perugia-walking-tours-307.html

“Perugia City Tour” does a 50 minute bus tour for 14 euros per adult. We saw it go by and picked up a flyer. It’s a small open air tourist bus and operates April-November.

http://www.acap.perugia.it/city_tour.php

We love nice kitchen/housewares stores, so I want to hightlight "Dinter" on Corso Cavour, 48. A higher-end store. Gorgeous artisan knives. There was a oyster knife we were admiring, but it was in a locked case and we imagined it to be quite pricy and were to chicken to ask.

Embarrassingly, we pretty much kept having lunch and dinner at the same place (Ferrari Luna Bar) and ordering different things off the menu since it was good and even better it had great outdoor space: in the middle of main pedestrian street where we could people watch. Reading Tripadvisor reviews, I see other people ate their multiple times, so we are not the only ones. Prime location.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187907-d1587663-Reviews-Ristorante_Pizzeria_Ferrari_Luna_Bar-Perugia_Province_of_Perugia_Umbria.html#REVIEWS

Also, maybe, just maybe, the other reason we kept going back was there was an attractive women who worked in the lingerie store that you could see through the store window. I found that out later. I am a pretty laid back and usually point out such things to my husband – but unbeknownst to me he seemed to discover this beauty on his own. I was kind enough to point her when I saw her elsewhere in town. I think that was gracious of me.

We also had a good pizza at Pizzeria Mediterranea. I noticed people walking out of here with stacks of pizza boxes.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187907-d1508818-Reviews-Pizzeria_Mediterranea-Perugia_Province_of_Perugia_Umbria.html

We had coffee at the counter multiple times at gorgeous Sandri Pasticceria. This place is a must visit – fascinating interior.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187907-d2312078-Reviews-Sandri_Pasticceria-Perugia_Province_of_Perugia_Umbria.html

Great report. We had some great times in 2001 in Umbria going to Spoleto and Bavagna.