Are your only set things the Vatican and the Colosseum? Are there any other must sees?

If you haven't booked a tour of the Colosseum, I would buy the Roma Pass which will not only get you into the Colosseum/Forum/Palantine free (counts as one entrance on the pass), but will also let you bypass ticket lines everywhere. I would use the second free entrance for the Borghese (you still must have a reservation - tell them you are using the pass). You will get discounts at other museums after your two free entrances plus the three day transport pass. It comes with a map that tells you how to get to each site.

You didn't give the dates you will be there, but if between Sept. 4 and end of October, know that there are special late openings of several museums including Friday nights at the Vatican Museum (until 11pm).
http://biglietteriamusei.vatican.va/musei/tickets/do?action=booking&codiceLivelloVisita=17&step=1

Additionally, the Colosseum/Forum will be open late on Sundays (also until 11pm) during those two months. Saturdays will be the Capitoline.
http://en.turismoroma.it/oggi_a_roma/ultime_notizie/musei_di_sera

If you will be there the last weekend of Sept., the state museums/sites will be free for Heritage weekend.

I don't think you are missing all that much with Castel Sant'Angelo.

On our last visit to Rome we joned a free walking tour by Rome Free Walk . It was FANTASTIC.
they meet every day at 5:30 PM near the spanish steps for a 2.5 hour tour in English. For details look at www.romefreewalk.com.

I'm not quite sure what you are asking. The Rome Tourist Board has some walking routes.
http://en.turismoroma.it/scoprire_roma/itinerari

the Rome Tourist Board walks don't include sites I want. The romefreewalk link isn't working for me. Thanks, though.

good tip re the Roma Pass for bypassing lines, will buy.
Yes, the Borghese is also on our to-do list, for our last day. I've been there before, but my friends haven't, and anyway, I love it.
Our dates are during the 3rd week of October, Thurs-Saturday, going home on Sun.

I have a book with numerous walking routes. It tells how long each route will take (most are around three hours), has the sites numbered on the route map, gives the directions to the next site (leaving the church, go left, etc.), gives directions back to your starting point when you finish the route (also gives the bus numbers to get back). It's Thomas Cook Travellers Rome. It also has a mini-CD. The routes are varied and labeled such things as Saints and Martyrs, Baroque Rome, Renaissance Rome, Rome monuments, etc.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1841572748

Baths of Diocletian/Santa Maria d'Angeli/San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane are all within a few minutes of each other, but a bit of distance from Trajan's Market. I'm not sure I would want to walk it as it's mostly uphill.

You have to call the Borghese to make your reservation and tell them you will be using the pass. You can't do it online as the only option there is to pay. Someone posted an e-mail address they used to make their reservation. You might find it with a search.

Start at Piazza Venezia. Trajan's Market, San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane (you might as well hop into Sant'Andrea al Quirinale on the same street), Baths of Diocletian/Santa Maria degli Angeli (same place more or less; church in one part, museum in another), Santa Maria della Vittoria.

Find the addresses in a guidebook or online and map a walking route at maps.google.com.

If you go to the Galleria Borghese's official ticket-reservation page, it now has a Call Back feature. They call you (no telephone charge to you), you make your reservation, you show your Roma Pass when you get there.

Zerlina, Sant'Andrea Quirinale was on my list too, but I was afraid of being 'greedy' one walk. k
yb, thanks for that book suggestion. I actually own a new book with 25 Rome walks in it, I think it's Frommers, but I couldn't figure out how to glean from it the sights I really wanted to make a priority.

thanks to both of you for the Pass/Borghese reservation tips.

If you like art and architecture search for Rome Churches in this forum. My wife and I found Caravaggio paintings in churches all over Rome, and we also stumbled on a wonderful statue of Moses by Michaelangelo in the San Pietro in Vincoli church not far from the Colosseum. As a warning, try to find the times the churches are open.

As another suggestion, you might try seeing the Ara Pacis, now housed in a new building not far from the Navona area. The Ara Pacis is an altar built at the time of Augustus.

As still another suggestion, there's the Largo di Torre Argentina off Via Arenula. This is a sunken area containing restored Roman temples and a cat sanctuary. And finally, what about the Baths of Caracalla?

Have a nice trip.

Yes to the churches, I've got a trip file on Rome from previous visits, and it's full of details on churches, I love to visit them,and so often have the benefit of the nearly-hidden masterpieces.To me, the church masteripiece of masterpieces is the Saint Teresa in Maria della Vittoria.

The Moses in the St Peter's church is pretty impressive, though even more I like the Rachel and Leah standing next to him, they look so serene. But in sculptural terms, I think Florence is Michelangelo's city, and Rome is Bernini's.

elaine,
I enjoyed Castello Sant'Angelo and we didn't even get to see all of it. The views from the top are fantastic!

You might look at Fodor's destination guide for Rome. It includes some walking itineraries. Go to the top of this page and click on "Destinations" in the horizontal menu.

I just remembered this one and I think there is another one or two if I can find them.
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/degas-rome-walk-southern-churches.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/degas-rome-walk-piazza-novona-area.cfm

ah, yes,Degas's wonderful walks. I'd forgotten about those, thanks.

I enjoyed Castel Sant'Angelo as well.

When you visit The Forum/Coliseum (Palatine Hill is included in admission as well), you can walk over to Trajan's Market. You will have to pay separation admission into the market, but you can see into Trajan's square and Trajan's forum without paying. After the Forum/Palatine Hill, we felt a bit of ruins overload especially with the August heat.

I don't think we're going to see the Palatine, our time is short, and there are other priorities.
Degas's 'southern churches' walk (link above), is masterful, but not the route I will be including this time.
I'll see if I can piece on together myself.

Does this route make sense? I've been using a map and a walking guide, but that doesn't help me with obstacles, uphill vs downhill, etc. I'm also not sure about the street that gives access to Trajan's Market, and perhaps that locale is better combined with the Forum/Colosseum.

Start at Piazza Venezia, with the monument to Victor Emmanuel II. Turn right on Via IV November, cross the street, and turn left through Piazza Santi Apostoli. Turn right on Via del Vaccaro to Piazza della Pilotta, right on Via della Pilotta, to Palazzo Colonna at #17 (has a gallery, open only on Saturdays from 9am to 1pm.). If you continue down Via IV Novembre you come to Trajan’s Market (just ahead, also seen from Via Fori Imperiale) and Trajan’s Column (to your right, down Via Magnanapoli.) A statue of Trajan once was perched at the top of the column; today the statue we see is of St Peter.

Return to Via IV Novembre to Largo Magnanapoli. Turn left on Via XXIV Maggio to Piazza del Quirinale. Palazzo del Quirinale is the official resident of the President. The fountain in the square depicts Castor and Pollux, the twin sons of Jupiter and the patrons of horsemanship. Down Via del Quirinale is Sant’Andrea al Quirinale, a church designed by Bernini. (church is closed on Tuesdays.)

Via del Quirinale will meet Via delle Quattro Fontane (Four Fountains). (on the opposite side of Via delle Quattro Fontane, Via del Quirinale takes on the name Via XX Settembre) The two river gods are the Tiber and the Arno, and the goddesses are Diana sand Juno. Where Via del Quirinale meets Via delle Quattro Fontane is the church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, designed by Bernini’s rival, Borromini. Continue left down Via delle Quattro Fontane to Palazzo Barberini and #13. This is now the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, closed Mondays. http://www.galleriaborghese.it/barberini/en/einfo.htm

Return to Via XX Settembre, heading north, and at #17 is the church Santa Maria della Vittoria. In my opinion, Bernini’s sculpture of Saint Teresa in the church’s Cornaro Chapel is a don’t-miss.
Cross to the other side of Via XX Settembre, and follow Via Orlando to Piazza della Republica. In the center of this hectic traffic center is the Fountain of the Naiads. The church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, built over part of Diocletian’s Baths, faces the Piazza. This church was designed by Michelangelo. Behind the church are the remains of the Baths of Diocletian.

comments welcome, please and thank you.

Try "24 Great Walks in Rome" by Frommers. The walks are mostly 1.5-2.5 or 3 hours long. I'm sure that parts of a few of the walks could be combined into a route that will cover most of your desired destinations. Plus, you will have a little history or back story along with you. The book is small and very portable. My big guidebooks will be staying home - this one and maybe one small spiral guide should cover it.
Enjoy!

Your route doesn't quite make sense to me because you will be able to see Trajan's Column and market from Piazza Venezia, so why not see if first instead of doubling back? Also, I don't care for the walk along the street through Largo Magnanapoli and Via XXIV Maggio. It is a very busy hectic intersection of a few busy streets. I'd rework the front end of your walk this way:

Start at Piazza Venezia and the monument Victor Emmanuel II. Cross the Via Fori Imperiale to view Trajan's Column and Trajan's Forum. From Trajan's Column, walk north along Via dei Fornari, crossing Via Cesare Battisti to Piazza Santi Apostoli. Walk north through the piazza and turn right on Via del Vaccaro to Piazza della Pilotta, right on Via della Pilotta, to Palazzo Colonna at #17.

From Piazza della Pilotta, walk north along Via dei Lucchesi and turn right onto Via della Dataria. At the end of the street, climb the steps to Piazza del Quirinale and the Palazzo del Quirinale. Turn left on Via del Quirinale and walk to the church of Sant’Andrea al Quirinale. Continue along Via del Quirinale to Via delle Quattro Fontane and the church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. Turn left on Via delle Quattro Fontane and walk downhill to Palazzo Barberini (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica) at mid-block.

Walk back up the hill to Via del Quirinale which becomes Via 20 Settembre as it crosses Via delle Quattro Fontane. Turn left (northish) on Via 20 Settembre and walk to the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria, just across the wide intersection at Via Barberini/Largo Santa Susanna.

Cross to the other side of Via XX Settembre, and follow Via Orlando to Piazza della Republica. The church of Santa Maria degli Angeli faces the Piazza. Behind the church are the remains of the Baths of Diocletian.

Quick question on Borghese.....a few of you mentioned to use the "roma pass" for a free entrence and that reservations were required....I thought this was just a park, i.e. on one of our days in early october we were planning on taking a bike ride in that park.....do we need a reservation/pass?

The Galleria Borghese is an important art museum within the Borghese park that requires reservation to visit.

bkmk

ellenem, thanks so much for your detailed suggestions.
I do already own the Frommers book on Rome walks, and in fact was trying to combine sections of a few of them. I've been to Rome twice before, but really never developed a good sense of it, unlike the way I feel about some other cities.
It took a Rome expert to help me with the route problems.
thanks all
Elaine

Go to my website link for a Google Map I did on 4 all-day tours. Check out the Green one, it goes everywhere you want to go. I haven't put in the MP3 files on that one yet, because I haven't converted the audio to MP3 (I'm old and lazy).

At the bottom of the map, you'll see the Google link to a larger version. Click on this to see it much more clear. If you have Google Earth, you can also run them in that.

http://www.passagetoroma.com/index.php/library/google/passagetours

thank you, your website looks fascinating, but unless I'm missing a feature, the walking route isn't spelled out, just the landmarks are highlighted as they are on other maps.
It's great for a look-see, though.

While I haven't yet finished adding the 4th tour to the free guide book, if you use the Google Map, then at the bottom of the map bring up the larger version. The 4th tour is the Green one. The Icons are the sites, the green lines are the route.

Zoom in and Click on each maker on the tour, starting at Termini and it tells you what to do or gives you a decision (bus or walk). While this version does not give exact directions, as the MP3 and guidebook will, you can easily write down the info.

I may or may not have the 4th tour added to the guidebook before you leave, as I'm now in the process of adding the pictures and maps to it. The MP3 file has some glitches, so I think we are going to record it over, but once again, that will be a few weeks down the road.

thanks, again

back again to report that, now that I finally get it, it's a remarkable website, full of information, eventually easy to use, and with precise detail on routes.
There seems to be a difference of opinion between your suggested way to see Trajan's Market, vs ellenem's suggestion above, but those may merely be personal preferences.

The reason for the differences, in the 4th tour, you have your choice of taking public transportation from some spots to another or walking. But they end up at the same main places. As with Trajan's Market, if you take the bus from Piazza Barberini to Venezia, then you are directly in front of Maria Aracoeli, with Trajan's Market to your left. If you walk, yes you actually walk right past the market to Aracoeli, so the two parts of the tour join back up again. Otherwise, it just becomes too confusing.

Actually, ellenem's and my walking routes are almost the exact same, we just start at opposite ends and I add in the public transportation options.

Like I said, the written portion makes this much more clear, as does the MP3 files. The Google Map is just a reference point until we get the other stuff done.

Elaine,

Let me take a simple approach, from my view.

First,, if you have the budget I would look at Context Tours for some very good quality guided walking tours.

Second, a simple rule. In the center city, the old city (Via Del Corso, Navona, Panteon, etc.) there is not a wrong way to walk. It is flat and easy. Same goes for the areas around the river, and Vatican City. Beyond that, look for the Metros on the map, and take them to those locations. The Metro is very easy to use, and inexpensive. This will get you through tough traffic and hilly areas with ease. Yes, there are hills outside of this basic area.

I know this sounds simple, but it should work for you if you do not want to be too scripted.

Third, walk the Via Julia, write ahead for entry to the Palazzo Farnese (sp?) now the French Embasy. Turn left toward Campo De Fiori. This would be time for a later lunch! Enjoy.

thanks, I know Context well, I used them in Rome when they were Scala Reale, and I used their services in Istanbul recently. For this Rome trip I've arranged a Vatican tour with Daniella at Mirabilis Urbis tours. I wanted a do-it-yourself walking route to visit just a few of my favorite churches, as we won't have time for the many that I have seen or want to see. My companions are not as interested in this as I am, and our time in Rome will be very short. Sometimes I don't want to be scripted, but sometimes I do. Thanks for the suggestions.

The following is what I've ended up with, and it is absolutely a compilation of valuable information included above and elsewhere at fodors.com


Quirinale area walk

Begin near Piazza della Republica. In the center of this hectic traffic center is the Fountain of the Naiads. The church of Santa Maria degli Angeli faces the Piazza. Behind the church are the other remains of the Baths of Diocletian (closed Mondays). Diocletian's Baths were built over 10 years between the last years of the 3rd century and the beginning of the 4th century A.D. Emperor Diocletian lived in Asia Minor and Croatia and never visited Rome. The Baths could accommodate 3000 bathers and it included concert halls, picture galleries, and exercise rooms.

According to tradition the Baths were built by Christians forced into labor; in 1561 a pope decided to convert most of the baths into a church, Santa Maria Degli Angeli. Michelangelo, in his late 80s, was originally in charge of the design,which closely followed the ancient architecture. When he died, other architects took over and changed his design. What I remember about this church, in the main nave, are the painted areas made to resemble real marble, which they are not. Running across the floor is a meridian with signs of the zodiac; for two hundred years, clocks in Rome were regulated according to this meridian.See http://www.santamariadegliangeliroma.it and http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/italy/rome/review-180062.html

From the Angeli church, head northwest toward Via Giuseppe Romita, onto the Piazza della Repubblica. Continue for about 2 minutes on Via Orlando. Veer left at Piazza di San Bernardo and veer right onto Via 20 Settembre. At #20 is the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. In my opinion, Bernini’s sculpture of Saint Teresa in the church’s Cornaro Chapel is a don’t-miss. http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/italy/rome/review-180064.html Open daily 9-12 and 3-6; Sunday 3-6 only. For a photo preview: http://www.boglewood.com/cornaro/xteresa.html

From the church, head southwest on Via 20 Settembre toward Largo Santa Susanna, turning left to stay on Via 20 Settembre. Take a slight left at Piazza di San Bernardo, and turn right, staying on Piazza di San Bernardo. Turn left at Via 20 Settembre onto Via del Quirinale. On the left is San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, at # 23, where Via del Quirinale meets Via delle Quattro Fontane, (Four Fountains). The fountains were designed by Bernini’s rival, Borromini. The fountains’ two river gods are the Tiber and the Arno, and the goddesses are Diana and Juno.
http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/italy/rome/review-180060.html and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Carlo_alle_Quattro_Fontane San Carlo (sometimes called San Carlino, because it is small) is open daily, M-F 10-12 and 1-3, Sat 1-3 only, Sun 12-1 only.

Option: Turn left on Via delle Quattro Fontane and walk downhill to Palazzo Barberini at # 13 (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica) at mid-block. Closed Mondays. http://www.galleriaborghese.it/barberini/en/einfo.htm

Leaving San Carlo, head northeast on Via del Quirinale, arriving at Sant’Andrea al Quirinale, another church designed by Bernini. (church is closed on Tuesdays.) http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/italy/rome/review-180065.html

From Sant’Andrea, head southwest on Via del Quirinale toward Via Ferrara (about 3 minutes.) Keep to the right to stay on Piazza del Quirinale until you arrive at Palazzo Quirinale, the official resident of the President. The fountain in the square depicts Castor and Pollux, the twin sons of Jupiter, and the patrons of horsemanship.

From the Piazza del Quirinale, find Via 24 Maggio which leads to Largo Magnanapoli. Follow it as it turns right, and then becomes Via 4 Novembre, and then again Magnanapoli. Turn left at Foro Traiano, and you will be at Trajan’s Market. If you take Via Magnanapoli west toward Via del Gambero and take a slight left at Foro Traiano, Trajan’s Column will be on the left. A statue of Trajan once was perched at the top of the column; today the statue we see is of St Peter.


Across the street is Piazza Venezia and the monument to Victor Emmanuel II.

From Trajan's Column, walk northeast on Foro Traiano toward Vicolo di San Bernardo, turning left to stay on Foro Traiano. Take a slight right turn at Via Magnanapoli and then turn left at Via 4 Novembre. Turn right, slightly, on Via della Pilotta, to Palazzo Colonna at #17, on the left. It has a gallery, open only on Saturdays from 9am to 1pm, closed in August. Or,to get there from Piazza Venezia, walk north toward Via del Plebiscito, but veer right to stay on Piazza Venezia. Continue walking on Via Cesare Battisti, and then turn left at Piazza dei Santi Apostoli. Galleria Colonna is at #17, Via della Pilotta. http://www.galleriacolonna.it This is one of the largest private art collections in Rome.

from fodors.com “Rome's grandest family built itself Rome's grandest palazzo in the 18th century—it's so immense, it faces Piazza Santi Apostoli on one side and the Quirinal Hill on the other (a little bridge over Via della Pilotta links the palace with the gardens on the hill). While still home to some Colonna patricians, the palace also holds the family picture gallery, open to the public one day a week. The galleria is itself a setting of aristocratic grandeur; you'll recognize the Sala Grande as the site where Audrey Hepburn meets the press in Roman Holiday. At one end looms the ancient red marble column (colonna in Italian), which is the family's emblem; above the vast room is the spectacular ceiling fresco of the Battle of Lepanto painted by Giovanni Coli and Filippo Gherardi in 1675—the center scene almost puts the computer-generated special effects of Hollywood to shame. Adding redundant luster to the opulently stuccoed and frescoed salons are works by Poussin, Tintoretto, and Veronese, and a number of portraits of illustrious members of the family such as Vittoria Colonna—Michelangelo's muse and longtime friend—and Marcantonio Colonna, who led the papal forces in the great naval victory at Lepanto in 1577.”

The tour is fine, but your directions are a bit screwy. From Santa Maria Degli Angeli, you walk straight up Via Orlando--no veering necessary-- and when you reach the corner at Via 20 Settembre, Santa Maria della Vittoria is directly across the street on the corner. All changes of directions you note to negotiate Piazza San Bernardo are confusing. I'd always stay on the north side of the street anyway since it's easier to walk across and step into Santa Susanna, which I find more interesting than San Bernardo.

Basically, after you leave Santa Maria della Vittoria (the entrance is on Via 20 Settembre), you will turn RIGHT out of the church and be walking SOUTHWEST all the way to Piazza del Quirinale. No matter the name of the street, it's a pretty straight run. (Your directions have you heading northeast from San Carlino to San Andrea--probably a cut-and-paste issue.)

thanks for spotting the errors!