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Rome at Christmas

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I will be traveling to Rome at Christmas this year with my husband and three children, ages 20, 16, and 14. We would like to attend a Christmas Eve mass, but not at the Vatican. Any thoughts about lovely, interesting churches to go to for Christmas Eve? The more local and authentic, the better. Also, we plan to eat dinner before mass. How far in advance should we make a reservation, how long should we expect dinner to last on Christmas Eve, and does anyone have restaurant suggestions? Someone recommended il San Lorenzo for a tradition seven fishes Christmas Eve dinner. Finally, any experiences, advice, etc. about Rome at Christmastime is welcome! We will be there a few days before and after Christmas.

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