Rome and South itinerary help, please

Ah, I posted this on Sunday night and it quickly fell to the bottom, on this fast moving board.

I'm bringing it up with hope of getting some help. Thanks.

We stayed in an amazing hotel in Matera in one of the convered cave dwellings. The Hotel Sassi. It's a bit tricky to drive to because of the way the old city is built. Matera is literally carved in to the sides of a hill. Here is the web site http://www.hotelsassi.it It should be within your budget. We were there in winter, so I'm not sure it has AC, but I think it does.

In Naples, I've stayed on the Mergellina waterfront, but that may not be in your budget. Further up the hill, the hotel Britannique (also has a parking area) was nice, but that's also 190E.

Ravello will be even more expensive: http://www.palazzosasso.com If you want something different from Positano, we really liked Amalfi. This is a larger town, more historic and slightly less touristy. There are more reasonable places to stay there.

Matera will be a long drive, but it is worth the trip.

Hi, tuscanlifeedit -

I think your trip sounds wonderful!

I trust you know that you can see Paestum from Salerno by train, and that you can travel between Salerno and Matera by bus. BTW, the cathedral in Salerno is wonderful; you might consider making time to visit it.

If you are interested in seeing Naples, 4 days is not necessarily too long. Whether to spend one or two nights of that time in Capri or the Cilento instead of staying in Naples depends on what you want to see and do.

Hope that helps!

I would highly recommend spending the two nights in Capri. You might want to look in Anacapri for a place to stay because I think that it might be a little less expensive than in Capri central. Unless you have family or a real need to go to Naples, I'm not sure that it would be worth it.

Ravello is a beautiful, small town. We stayed in the Hotel Graal for a wedding in October 2006, which was just a few minutes' walk into the center of town. I just checked availability and a room there for your dates is 170 euros. Amalfi is nice and may be cheaper, but it is a much busier waterfront town.

Thanks for all the tips.

Some comments and questions:

We have visited Positano and Amalfi but are really hoping for quiet Ravello for a couple of days. I've found some less expensive pensione type places that we can afford, but there is very little information about these places.

Naples: We have spent a lot of time in Italy, but not so much south of Rome, and I do want to pay a visit to Naples. We really want to see the Archealogical museum, and the Capodimonte art museum.

Matera: as I said, that is where my family is from, and I really want to go. I also want to make a long trip from there to a village called Corleto Perticara. My maternal grandmother is from there.

Oh, Capri: I've been on day trip but that's it. DH has never been. Capri vs. Cilento: I'm thinking Cilento for the access to Paestum and to shorten the drive into deep Basilicata. Supposed to be pretty, and certainly off the beaten track.

I just can't get this trip to come together easily. It is long for us; maybe that's the problem. But for the biz class award tickets, these were the best dates I could get.

Hi Tuscan - You could stay in both Capri and Cilento.

Unless they resolve the garbage crisis in Naples you might want to rethink your plans to stay there.

You could easily day-trip to Naples from Capri to see the museums ...

Steve

Hi Steve

That is an interesting suggestion: to day trip from Capri. I've never been to Naples, but maybe a daytrip would be enough... I'm really confused on that.

The garbage crisis: Lordy, I hope they do something about that by May!

So Steve (and others): what do you think of

4 nights Rome
2 nights Cilento (for Paestum and relaxing)
3 nights Matera
3 nights Capri (day trip to Naples and/or Ravello?)

We have a final night that needs work, but it might be an airport stay. I'm working on getting my tickets changed, but if that doesn't happen, we have a 6:45 am flight out of Rome.

I hate to give up on Ravello, but there isn't much there that I can find that we can afford and has AC as well as decent reviews.

4 stops are my maximum, that is for sure. I could cut a day in Rome, but the first day is a bit of a wash, as I don't see us getting to our room until 2 or 3 in the afternoon, and I know I will be tired.

Hi tuscanlifeedit,

I like the sound of your southern Italy trip. 2 days in Ravello would be very nice, but the 3 days in Cilento of the second itinerary might do the trick - more off the beaten path too!

I was thinking along the same lines as Steve James, I would not want to stay in Naples (and I liked Naples) unless the garbage problem is solved! Daytripping from Capri is definitely doable. Capri residents commute to work every day.

Buon viaggio!

Hello,

I am staying in Ravello this June for my honeymoon. We found a lovely B&B called Punta Civita - the inkeeper is fabulous. we will be there for 7 nights and then are headingover to Capri for 4 nights.

You should look into it.

Hi Tuscan - Have you tried the Ravello APT website? There must be something there in your price range ...

http://www.ravellotime.it/it/ospitalita/bab.asp

http://www.ravellotime.it/downloads/tariffe.pdf

You don't need to worry about AC either - Ravello is a few degrees cooler than down on the coast. It's not even an issue in May

Steve

Last May, I actually wanted a light jacket during the evenings in Ravello. . . .

It is really better to get a private driver or taxi to take you from Ravello to Paestum as we did. You can use Wagner Tours in Ravello to set it up- they hired a professor to take us through Paestrum. He was excellent and not too expensive. It was a very memorable excursion and worth every penny!

I would love to get a driver, but we are doing this trip on the ultra cheap.

It is good to know that May might not be too hot. I will check out all the B&B recs for Ravello.

For me, AC is important. I run hot, and I'm not in the very best of health. If I get too warm, I can become quite ill.

I know that it seems a little extreme, but if you saw me sick after becoming warm, you would understand. If temps happen to be warm, I would be sunk.

So I'm going to check the recs out and come back with my updated itinerary.

Ah, Punta Civita looks quite nice. However, is it actually in Ravello?

My goal is, if we hit the AC at all, to stay in Ravello. I had understood from reviews that Punta Civita is not actually in Ravello. Am I mistaken?

Ok, putting air conditioning aside, I am still not sure that I can comfortably negotiate the various spots in Ravello that are in our price range. Which has been lowered; ouch.

Updated itinerary, as of today:

May 2: arrive Rome, stay 4 nights.

May 6: fast train to Salerno, and on to Paestum, stay 1 night.

May 7: drive to Matera, stay 3 nights. Day trip to Corleto Perticara, and a festa that might fit our itinerary.

May 10: drive back to Salerno, and afternoon ferry to Capri. Stay 3 nights. Maybe a daytrip to Amalfi/Ravello.

May 13: ferry to Naples. Stay at least 1 night, maybe 2.

Biggest question at the moment: Ravello or Capri?

I am not sure if Punta Civita is in the heart of Ravello- but from the research I have done so far- it seems to be a small village. You may want to write to Roberto (innkeeper) he is the most charming, helpful person- he is what sold us since his personal touch seems to permeate into every area of his business. We booked the Romantica room- seems like the best bargin around. It looks beautiful and the views even more so. Good luck.

Hi Tuscan - The Punta Civita website says 2km from the sea - so definitely not in Ravello itself.

Ravello or Capri? I'd choose Capri ...


I see a couple of logistical problems with your present itinerary.

1. There is NO afternoon ferry to Capri from Salerno. There are normally only 2/3 departures daily in May - all before 09.00 .

2. Day-tripping to Amalfi/Ravello from Capri is inconvenient (- you would have to ferry to Sorrento -then use public transport or ferry/hydrofoil to Amalfi from there) - as Capri-Amalfi services are in the late afternoon, NOT morning.

Here's the typical spring timetable:
http://www.comune.salerno.it/allegati/4734.pdf

As you can see, the timetable is designed for day-tripping TO Capri FROM Amalfi - not vice versa


So you might need to change plans. If you still want to head to Capri you could -

- drive the Amalfi Coast Salerno-Sorrento and drop the car there - then ferry from Sorrento, OR

- return to Naples - and ferry/hydrofoil to Capri from there, OR

- change the order of your itinerary, maybe?

Hope this helps ...

Steve

SteveJames

I wonder if you might still be following this?

I could possibly switch a day in order to get to Salerno in the early morning for a ferry to Capri; I've committed to Capri since writing earlier.

I am totally unsure of where to watch for ferry schedules from Salerno > Capri > Naples. I have some sites bookmarked but they are confusing and/or not listing times for May.

I could do

Rome > a fast train to get me as close to Matera as possible. Any suggestions?

Then, Matera > Salerno for an overnight, which would allow for a visit to Paestum, and also the Duomo in Salerno as mentioned above, and then the early ferry to Capri. If only I could see a schedule.

From Capri > Naples by ferry and stay one or hopefully, two nights.

Thoughts? I am close to booking Matera but it would be great if I knew that I needed to change the order of the Paestum/Salerno night to one after Matera/before Capri. Oh, sigh...

Hi Tuscan - The Salerno-Capri spring timetable will be posted on the following two sites.

The spring timetable will be posted when the service restarts - probably in March/Easter.

http://www.capri.net/salsa/lang/en/page/transport.html
(- not yet posted)

http://www.comune.salerno.it/allegati/4734.pdf
(- currently shows last autumn's timetable.

The spring timetable is normally the same -
i.e deps at: 08.10, 08.20 and 08.50
N.B from Molo Manfredi NOT Piazza della Concordia)

Steve

P.S. Were you planning on travelling Rome-Matera on the day you arrive??

That might not be ideal - it's a 6+ hrs journey ...

Wouldn't it work better if you went Rome-Naples and spent your 1/2 nights there first - then on to Matera from there?

Is there a particular reason for leaving Naples till last?

Steve

Since you are planning on going to Paestum (a fantastic place), you might want to consider this great B&B.


http://www.casale-giancesare.it/

The place is beautiful and if you are lucky enough, she will also make dinner. Enzo and his wife are great and the price is reasonable.

Tell them Regina and Dave sent you.

dave

Steve

Oh, I am so blind: I missed your earlier posting of the time table. I apologize.

Why I'm saving Naples for last: we have a flight out of Rome at the crack of dawn to come home, on May 15.

It seemed to me that we could get to Rome rather late the night before the flight, May 14, if we were coming from Naples. We would get to Naples on the afternoon of the 13th; have dinner, walk around, see the museums the next day, and take a late train to Termini, then to FCO.

Right now, I am committed to these nights:

Rome: May 2, 3, 4, 5

Capri: May 10, 11, 12

I can't figure out any other way to get the early ferries to Capri from Salerno without spending the night nearby.

We could leave from Naples to go to Capri, but that doesn't really give us enough time for Naples and Matera.

Oh, my head is swimming.

I keep coming back to Salerno because my husband wants to see Paestum, and so do I.

Daveesl:

About the B&B you recommended: how far is it from Paestum, and also from Salerno? Did you have a car?
Are there public transportation options?

Thanks

It is about 2-3 km from the outer walls of Paestum and yes we had a car. There is a train station in Paestum but I don't remember how far it is from the ruins.

dave

Tuscan - So ... it's 3 nights Matera, then one night near Paestum/Salerno, is that right?

Looks OK to me if you don't mind doing Rome-Matera in one stretch.

Are you still planning to have a car at some point, or are you now using public transport to Matera?

Steve

P.S. To answer Dave's point, the railway station at Paestum is 15-20 mins walk from the temples.

Steve: we are going to have a car and I think we will drive straight from Rome to Matera. It is a long drive but after a nice stay in Rome, I think we will be up for it. My husband likes to drive, and he likes to drive in Italy.

As I said earlier (I think) our last two trips to Europe, both in 2007, were each city stays of a week. This time, we want to move around and have a different experience.

Here is the itinerary as it now stands:
May 1... leave home
May 2…arrive Rome
May 3
May 4
May 5
May 6 : Drive to Matera
May 7 …. Matera
May 8 Matera
May 9 Drive to Paestum then Salerno. Must spend night in Salerno to catch early ferry to Capri
May 10…Capri
May 11…Capri
May 12…Capri
May 13… Ferry to Naples in the morning. Stay Naples
May 14… Naples. Take evening train to Rome Get a room @ airport
May 15 fly all day home

"Must spend night in Salerno to catch early ferry to Capri"

I think Salerno may pleasantly surprise you it's certainly not a bad place to spend an evening...lots of restaurants, cafe, and a really lively evening passeggiata.

Have a great trip!

Casa: thanks! As I've been reading about Salerno, I have become intrigued.

Our plan is to drive from Matera to Paestum, in the morning. Hopefully, lunch before seeing the ruins. We will stop at the war cemetary after that, then turn our car in, in Salerno. We will have a nice evening there, I think.

Tuscan - Looks good

I agree with CasaDC - Salerno is pleasant.

Depending on what time you get there I guess you could even spend the evening in Ravello if you still want to visit ...

Steve

Ravello is worth the stay. It is hte least touristy and most friendly.

Capri is better for a day trip. Too touristy and expensive.

Although hotels may be a bit expensive in Ravello (try the Giordano, Villa Maria or Parisfal for better prices and very good service!), dining options are excellent and very reasonable, even with the dollar-euro exchange rate.

You will not be disappointed with Ravello. There are also concerts at Hotel Rufolo almost every night and these too are inexpensive (20 euro).

Ravello offers far more local color, no tour boats like Capri, etc.

I will be in Ravello May 2-7 and am returning to the Villa Maria.

Please feel free to aak any questions.

mweiner: we have already committed to Capri, but thank you for the information.

I did research all the Ravello hotels mentioned. Prices in general were high, and ratings were kind of all over the place.

We are hoping that Capri will not be overrun with tourists if we stay out of the central piazza of Capri town... or, I could be indulging in wishful thinking. We are very interested in hiking and visiting the more historic sites on the island. Anyway, Capri it is.

I would definitely drive to Matera - it is kind of in the middle of nowhere. Do trains even go there?

If you have not read Christ Stopped at Eboli by Carlo Levi, I would highly recommend it before you get to Matera. There is a museum devoted to him in Matera. I am sure you will love it there.

I too tend to think driving in Basilicata is the best way to see things...however, yes, you can get there by train and bus You can find all kinds of info. on the official tourist site:
http://www.aptbasilicata.it/Home-Page.1050+M52087573ab0.0.html

(I believe the public transportation options are under "Hospitality - How Reaching" )

Hi Tuscan - Have you stayed at Arco del Lauro B&B before? What made you choose it?

I have some friends who are looking for a Rome B&B, and the location looks good ...

Steve

Hi Steve:

We have not stayed at Arco del Lauro, but I had several reasons for choosing it.

1. My US dollars don't go as far as they used to in Rome, and our central hotels from past visits are now very expensive in general, and more expensive for those spending dollars. So no Portoghesi or Due Torri for me.

2. It certainly seems like a good option for 125 euro in May. There is air conditioning, and I like the idea of a coffee/tea and fridge available all the time. I take Sleepy Time tea bags with me, so...

3. I like the looks of the modern decor.

4. My husband wanted to stay in Trastevere. We never have and he enjoyed our brief visits there.

5. In general, reviews are good.

So that's why we picked the Arco del Lauro. They have been prompt in responding to all our emails. I hope this helps.