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Rome and Paris January Trip Report

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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 08:45 AM
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Rome and Paris January Trip Report

We planned a 9 day trip to Rome and Paris, four nights in Rome and five in Paris. I spent a lot of time on Tripadvisor and Fodors community forums planning this trip. I have really only been a prowler up until now. I could usually find answers to any questions I had just by reading others posts. I wanted to say THANK YOU for everyone that posts information and trip reports here. It made planning really fun. I wanted to post our trip report in hopes that I could help anyone in their planning. Sorry if its a little long.

We were able to cash in air miles to fly first class there and back, which was absolutely fantastic. I had been to Rome before over 6 years ago. It was also during the summer so high tourist time and very hot. I was excited to take DH to a place that had captured my heart. We have done quite a bit of travelling together, last year to Ireland plus extensively throughout the US. Our strategy is usually to see as much as we can which usually means we walk a lot (both in our 20s). We both love wine and food, so France and Italy seemed like a great decision. With my work schedule and DH’s work and now new school schedule (he’s going back) we planned this trip in about 5 weeks. So I was on these boards A LOT. I have never written anything like this before. So here it goes…

January 12
We woke up at 4:35am for our 6:25am flight. We live close to the airport in our small town, so getting there any earlier would be unnecessary and the airport probably wouldn’t even be open. Our friend picked us up at 5:10. We only had 43 minute layovers at both connecting airports. Luckily both flights arrived on time. Even after getting deiced in Salt Lake City and sitting in the airplane for what seemed like forever (probably only 5 minutes). In Atlanta we had to travel from the A terminal to the E terminal, and from about the two farthest gates away from each other. When we arrived at our gate they were calling for the last passengers but we made it! The food on the plane was really good, we had duck with couscous for an appetizer, salad, tenderloin with wasabi mashed potatoes and green beans for the main course. I had an ice cream sundae for desert while DH had the cheese and fruit plate. For breakfast we had eggs benedict with spinach. We watched quite a few movies and got a little bit of sleep. Flight arrived on time at FCO at 7:40am. After collecting our bags, we had a driver prearranged through the hotel waiting for us (50E). Thank goodness we did as there was a taxi strike that day and taking the Leonardo Express would have been a pain with our luggage and hotel location.

January 13
We arrived at our hotel, the Pantheon Inn around 9am. Luckily they had our room ready so we were able to drop of our luggage and freshen up a bit before venturing out. I choose this hotel due to its location and price. It was right next to the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (our window overlooked it). The Pantheon Inn was a great location and the price was right (90E/night). It had a free continental breakfast but we only ate it once. Our room was decent size but the shower and bathroom were nice. However, the water wasn’t always hot, never cold but not HOT. The staff was nice and helpful. We were on the 3rd floor European. It had a small elevator.

After getting freshened up we headed out. First stop was of course the Pantheon. We were two of six people in it at that time. It was quite amazing. From there we walked over to Piazza Navona. Again it was early and pretty much deserted. From there we walked over to the Colisseum. There were no lines! It was amazing. I had last been there during the summer and there were so many people. This was very exciting. After walking around the Collisseum we walked to Basilica of San Clemente. DH saw his first gypsie sitting outside this church. I enjoy this church and the ceilings. It is also interesting as it has three levels to it, the main floor from the 11th century, the middle floor from 4th century and the foundation from the 1st century.

Once we had toured through the church, we stopped for a little pizza al taglia. It was very good and much needed as we were getting a little tired. We ate as we walked to the Forum. Before we left we downloaded the Rick Steves’ audioguides on our MP3 players. We listened to the Forum tour which was really nice. It was great to have someone telling us about the different sites instead of reading from our guidebook. We walked back to the hotel to shower and take a short nap. We slept for about an hour and a half. It was really needed. We had planned to go to Dar Poeta in Trastevere for dinner that evening. We were hungry early and their website said they were open all day, so we headed through Campo di Fiori over the river to Trastevere. However, it was closed. So we turned around and headed back to the Campo. We ended up at Maranega. It was a decision that was not based on any reviews and purely of convenience but it was really good food. We got a caprese appetizer. I got bucatini del’amtriciana (sp?) and DH got the lasagna. We also had some wine (which is a recurring theme on our trip). Overall it was 40E. The noodles were so good. It was an early bedtime that night.
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 09:00 AM
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I am eager to read your report about Paris because I am in the very preliminary planning stages of my first trip to France for this summer. Can you tell me what is the ratio of Euros to U.S. dollars? When you write about Paris, I'd like to know the name of your hotel, price, etc., also restaurants you liked. Thanks!
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 09:10 AM
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ooo i'm waiting to hear your report about Paris too since I'm heading out there in a couple of months. I've already got the hotel booked but would love to hear about any great restaurants you went to and latest fashion there .. although I suppose it will have changed by the time I go since the weather will be warmer
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 09:15 AM
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Bookmarking to enjoy as it unfolds.
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 09:23 AM
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For a first trip report you are doing great...looking forward to the rest.
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 09:59 AM
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Great start! You might give this a France tag as well.

Look forward to hearing more!
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 10:36 AM
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I may be taking a semi-last-minute trip to France (if I'm lucky), and was in Rome last summer, so I'm reading with interest!

Kwoo: If you Google "exchange rate dollar to euro" it pops right up.
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Great start to your first trip report! Looking forward to reading more!
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 11:37 AM
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Bookmarking as I'm going to Rome in early March. Looking forward to reading more!
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 11:41 AM
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Wonderful start, can't wait for more.
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 12:27 PM
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So excited...we love Paris and have been the past 3 years and I am planning a Fall trip to Rome. Ready for more!
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 01:56 PM
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bmk
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 05:58 PM
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Thanks all! You are so nice. I'm working on the next day now.

@Kwoo-the exchange rate dropped a lot before we left. It was around $1.28=1 euro, but you can find the current rates with a google search
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 06:34 PM
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January 14
We slept until about 10am as we both kept waking up during the night. Our agenda today was to tour some churches and walk around. I had wanted to go to the Capuchin Crypt as I wasn’t able to go there before. So we walked from our hotel past the Trevi Fountain. We threw in our coins so we can return to Rome someday. Then up to Piazza Barberini to the Crypt. We both found it very interesting and bought a couple postcards. From there we wandered up past the US Embassy towards Repubblica stopping at Santa Maria della Vittoria to see the Ecstasy of Saint Theresa. We went into Santa Maria degli Angeli. I love this basilica; it is in part of the Baths of Diocletian. From the outside it looks like nothing but inside its massive and partially designed by Michelangelo.

At this time we were both ready for lunch. We found Portioli Tea Room which was close to the Museo Nazionale, again a place chosen for convenience. We both got pizzas and a glass of wine. They were both decent but we were also very hungry. After lunch we went to the Palazzo Massimo. I love the frescoes from Livia’s villa. When I was there before I wrote my art history paper on it and various other Roman frescoes. After an hour or so we meandered back to the hotel via a gelato stop. We relaxed in our room for a bit before venturing out for more wine and dinner.

When we were ready to venture out we went back to Campo di Fiori for a bottle of wine and watched the market being cleaned up for the day. We sat outside under the heaters as the weather the whole time in Rome was very pleasant. During the day we were fine in light jackets. Once we were done with the wine we wandered back to Trastevere and found a place that had a 2.50 Happy Hour. However, we don’t know the name of it and when we tried to find it later in the trip it was not where we thought it was, but it was great cheap wine.

By this time we were ready to eat. We found Casetta di Trastevere open and serving with a few people inside. We like to eat earlier than the typical European time, as in earlier then 7:30-9pm, so most places had plenty of seats available. I got the bruschetta and a rigatoni with cream sausage. DH got the minestrone and that was actually it for him. It was a really big bowl though full of tons of meat and noodles. We got a carafe of the house red, 2 espressos and some tiramisu for 30E. It was good food especially for the price.

After dinner we went back to the hotel to get DH’s camera. He was in charge of the nice SLR. We walked around and got some nice night photos of Rome (Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain, Christmas lights). Overall it was a really great day.
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 06:55 PM
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January 15
Today we had reservations for the Borghese Gallery at 11am. So we got up and had the hotel breakfast, nothing special. We decided to walk to the Gallery, so started out with a repeat of what we walked the day before. We got there around 10:15 and got our tickets. Love the Bernini sculptures. They are just so incredible. Apollo and Daphne is my absolute favorite. We walked through the Villa Borghese on our way back. It was so full of families riding bikes, rollerblading and just enjoying the nice weather and a lazy Sunday.

DH has a coworker that suggested a restaurant to us beforehand on via Margutta. So we walked down there but it was not open. Seemed to be our luck with the few places we had wanted to try, oh well. We went to Piazza del Popolo. There were so many people out and about shopping. I was confronted by the men trying to give me a rose, DH did not really know what was going on but I quickly informed him of their scam. This was the only place that this happened on our trip, which was nice.

We stopped for lunch at Pizza Re. I got the vegetarian pizza and DH got what I would call the “supreme” pizza. With two glasses of wine it was 30E. It was very good pizza; definitely better than the day before. After lunch we wandered back to the hotel. Along the way we picked up a few souvenirs and postcards for people back home.

After a short rest it was time for more walking! We went into Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, then to Francesca al Luigi to see the Carvaggios, then over to Castel Saint Angelo for a view of St. Peters. We were then hungry for some dinner so decided to try Antica Taverna. We found it and I had the fried zucchini and rigatoni carbonara. DH had a big bowl of mussels which were really good and the lasagna. Finished with some limoncella (plus wine with dinner-of course) and it came to 40E. As we were walking back to the hotel we walked past a bar. We could see a big projector screen with the Ravens versus Texans playoff game on. So we stopped in and had a few drinks and watched the game and chatted with some of the people. Again, it was a really nice day.
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Old Jan 24th, 2012, 07:19 PM
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Really enjoying your report. We did a similar trip three years ago. . .Paris and Rome. . .both great cities. We just returned from our sixth trip to Paris. . .over Christmas week. Like you, we travel quite a bit; however, we've only posted one trip report. We'll look forward to your next installments.
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Old Jan 25th, 2012, 03:30 AM
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Enjoying your trip report. Looking forward to Paris section. Your flight to Europe seems to have cross the entire US- de icing in Salt Lake and transfer in Atlantic. Lucky you were able to get First Class for flights like that.
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Old Jan 25th, 2012, 05:26 AM
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The Borghese is one of my favorite Roman museums. The sculptures are absolutely beautiful! Looking forward to more.
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Old Jan 25th, 2012, 12:56 PM
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glad you enjoyed the antica taverna. our landlady recommended it and we thought it was great for a simple authentic meal.

FYI the Fico just down the road is pretty good too.
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Old Jan 25th, 2012, 02:49 PM
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@LowCountryIslander-Reading your trip reports actually inspired me to write this. Thank you!

@annhig-we went there the next night for dinner actually. We thought it was very good.
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