frugaltraveler

any help/comments/critiques - welcome...
2 of us are planning an end of March trip to Romania.. 1 week spent in Transylvania, with a possible extra 3 days for Maramuras.. Is this possible that time of year ? Would renting a car or train be the best option? what are the roads like ? Would we be best to fly to Budapest instead of Bucharest and then fly to Cluj Napoca for possibility of tours so we wouldn't have to drive ? We have to end up in Sibiu for our week in Transylvania... again - any help would be so appreciated....

Michael

Maramures is quite isolated. A car would be better. You may want to read my trip report, which is getting old, but may still be valid when it comes to travel; click on my name to find it.

I suspect that March could present weather problems.

bilboburgler

Snowy or muddy up in the north. Cold in the south. I'd go to Bucheresti myself

flat4

In principle Maramures can be visited all year round; there in late March temperatures will probably range approximately between 5-15°C (40-60°F). The weather will likely be rainy and snowfalls are also possible.

As mentioned above you can do the major sites in Transylvania by train/bus, yet in Maramures it's best to rent a car or hitchhike (because away from the two main routes public transport is too infrequent). Main roads are ok, back roads are in bad condition but they're usable if you drive slowly.

It's possible to get directly to Cluj Napoca, there are low cost flights to it from secondary airports near London, Paris, Rome, Madrid, Milan etc.
You could also fly to Bucharest then get a domestic flight to Baia Mare (in Maramures).

Afterward catch the night train from northern Maramures (starts in Sighetu Marmatiei) to Brasov then a bus to Sibiu.

popescu

especially that time of year you have the driver/guide alternative to see more and without too much cold

Clifton

We found driving ourselves provided the most flexibility (but we usually do!), even though trains do often provide a unique look at a place as well. Perhaps a combination?

If driving, do get a good detailed map and in inclement weather, try to stick to primary and secondary roads, which are asphalt. Avoid "white roads" as we found a few of those washed out or mud bound in even good weather. Also do avoid driving after dark. The roads may be potholed (although in my opinion, the roads are better than say, Ireland for the most part) but the real concern is that day or night, the roads can be populated with almost anything. Pigs, cows, chickens, horse carts, bicyclists, elderly ladies in black dresses that give no quarter...

Enjoy Romania. Fascinating place.

frugaltraveler

Thanks all for the input... we have purchased airline tickets and now the planning starts... arrving in Bucharest at 3pm.. and would like to take the train to Brasov, and stay 3 nights ( any suggestions ?) then possible train to Sighisoara ( 1 night ) then train to Sibiu for 4 nights.... advice on train would be so helpful, any suggestions for accomodations would be really helpful...any suggestions for driver/guide in Brasov too... I know I am asking alot - I do appreciate any and all information... Maramuras may have to wait for another trip with warmer weather ...

flat4

There are trains from Bucharest to Brasov nearly every hour between 6.30AM-8.30PM. From Brasov to Sighisoara there are hourly trains as well, except between ~10PM-2PM.
You can book tickets on https://bilete.cfrcalatori.ro/vanzare/loginuser.aspx
If possible try to avoid using commuter trains (named Personal, marked "P" on timetables), they're very slow.

A suggestion on accommodations (location): in Brasov make sure they're in the old quarter (the area around Sfatului square) and in Sighisoara that they're within the citadel.

frugaltraveler

flat4 - thanks for your prompt reply... would you suggest we buy train tickets ahead of time ?

flat4

Well, it's not absolutely necessary to book tickets ahead, trains aren't that full.
Just that it's easier (and slightly cheaper, although prices are rather low by Western standards anyway) to get tickets online rather than to get them at the station.

Clifton

Not sure of your budget but Legenda is a nice little guesthouse in Sighisoara's citadel. http://www.legenda.ro/en/index.php It's not extremely pricey (avg about 30 eu per night), but not in the top or bottom budget rungs either for citadel accomodation. Rooms were clean, had some character, most opened to outside private laneway. Breakfast included... but recommend skipping it. Not their finest feature. But the Casa Wagner (a more upscale hotel) just a few doors up the road had some nice breakfasts and was open to walk ins. There's an internet cafe between the two... the entire citadel is very compact, so if you're in the walls, everything is close.

In Sibiu, we splurged a bit for the Roman Emperor/Imparatul Romanilor. It's really a bit tatty, or at least was a few years ago, in a grande dame sort of way. Tall ceilings, big wooden doors, but dark hallways, kind of threadbare in places for the comparative price, we thought. We had great views though. Can't beat the location. Watch, they may offer (or may not even ask about) the currency exchange (DCC) in your home currency if you pay by card. This is usually not at favorable rates compared to if you simply pay in lei and let the banks manage the exchange. But you have to point out that you want to pay in lei. Like Ireland, this "idea" has found Romania in places.

Since trains are so frequent, if you have a couple daylight hours to kill, you might want to schedule a stop in Sinaia, in the mountains between Bucharest and Brasov. There's a interesting old monastery there, as well as Peles Palace (more of a manor home than palace, but still...)

frugaltraveler

Micheal - just looked at your Romania pictures and all I can say is WOW ! you took some amazing pictures... Clifton - thanks for the guesthouse recommendation for Sighisoara.. That one would be perfect for us... I have decided to rent a car from Bucharest - I don't like the idea of waiting for a train... I want to see as much as I can.. please advise on this itinerary..
March 16th arrive Bucharest at 3pm - drive to Brasov, stay 2 nights.see Peles, Bran
March 18th drive to Sighisoara - stay 2 nights
March 20th drive to Sapanta - very early start, see Merry Cemetery and a few wooden churches then drive towards Sibui, staying wherever we end up at dusk ?..
March 21st drive from ? to Sibui stay 2 nights....
March 23rd drive from Sibui to Poenari Fortress to Bucharest, staying overnight in Bucharest for early flight out...

I know this is the end of March and the weather will be possibly wet, damp, cold, ... this doesn't bother me since I live in WI... also, if the weather forecast for the Maramures region is bad, we will forgo that and either stay an extra night in Sighisoara or Sibiu...

I would stay on highways or main roads - after reading Micheal's report.. And maybe I should rent a GPS with the car rental....

Any other advice - critiques - would be so appreciated...

Michael

Thanks for the compliment.

Stick to the main roads, or at least paved roads. Some roads were almost impassable when we were there in June, although the month was a rainy one. We visited between the rains. A few weeks later there were major floods in Romania.

tower

Frugal:

I have driven all regions of the country from the 1970's through 2005. During Ceausescu's regime, this was rough going (food and petrol shortages were common, and the frequent roadblocks became annoying after a few) ..but didn't take anything away from the fascination with the country and its people. Yes, late March can be tricky and sticky. You are planning a long and potentially difficult drive from Sighis(h)oara to Maramures(h) depending on weather. The unusual merry cemetary in Sapanta near Sighetul is a ten minute visit in my opinion...the many wooden churches are strung throguhout the region and small-town Romania is very much in evidence. Frankly, I would rule out Maramures(h)even though it is so very colorful. Save it for another time when you can also take in the frescoed chuches of Bukovina.

Like Clifton (who compared notes with me several times)I also recommend The Casa Wagner in Sig. Both breakfasts and dinner at Casa Wagner were filling and generally tasty, and the interior gives you a feel for 19th century lodgings.

I can share many photos of Romania if you wish to see more.
Just write me at Sgtbranko at aol dot com and will be happy to comply immediately.

I'm certain you will see Romania exciting, different and well worth experiencing. You'll quickly find out, "it ain't downtown Madison!"

Best wishes for happy travels..

Stu

Clifton

While we took a more roundabout way to get from Sighisoara area to Maramures and took a number of days to do it, I would have to guess that day on the 20th is reallly going to be pushing it. The roads up there are usually paved, but small and winding and filled with slow-downs. I was probably caught behind dozens of plodding horsecarts every day, if not more, with no way to just dart around them. I love driving but it can take it out of you, driving in RO. Guess I'm just saying that addition of Maramures is a tempting one, and understand that, but it may be awfully optimistic to think of it as a one-day diversion. Plus, once you're there, the villages aren't exactly sort of look and go sort of things, IMO. It's good to get out, see of someone comes over to ask if you'd like to look inside the old wooden church (then they go find someone who knows the person who has the key who goes to find it and then comes to let you in and show you around and... anyway, it's definitely not rapid fire siteseeing when it gets that far along!)

frugaltraveler

Thanks all for your honest and smart opinions... I think it wise to cross off Maramuras... And Stu - you are probably right ( it ain't downtown Madison - just had a daughter graduate from there in May ) we are closer to Milwaukee though..

So.. plan B is :

March 16th arrive at 3pm - spend the night in Bucharest
March 17th train to Brasov - spend 2 nights
March 19th train to Signisoara - stay 2 nights
March 21st train to Sibiu - stay 2 nights
March 23rd train to Bucharest overnight
March 24th depart

The 3 main things that we want to see are Peles Castle, Bran Castle, and Poenari Fortress... I am hoping that we could hire a driver to take us to these places from Brasov possibly...

Thanks again... and Stu - I will be emailing you and would love to see your photos too...

Your advice is much appreciated

frugaltraveler

one more question... is Eurail the way to go or is taking the CFR ?.. and yes, I am interested in cheaper but want decent travel - if that is possible... I priced Eurail and for 2 of us with the saver pass, the price would be $ 171 pp.....
thanks again..

flat4

Plan B looks ok, although 2 days is a bit long for Sighisoara (it's interesting, but very small) - it might be a good idea to cut one day there and spend it instead in Brasov.

Peles castle is in Sinaia, which is on the main railway between Bucharest and Brasov as mentioned above; you can stop there before getting to Brasov.
Bran castle is very easy to reach from Brasov by public transport, there are buses every half hour.
For Poenari fortress it's indeed better to rent a car or get
Also try to visit some of the old German villages with fortified churches in between Brasov-Sibiu-Sighisoara, for instance the ones in Harman or Prejmer (20-30 minutes away from Brasov by train or bus)

Eurail is a ticket reseller, not a rail company. All trains on the routes you plan to do are operated by CFR (just on Sibiu-Sighisoara apart from CFR a smaller rail company, Regiotrans, also has a few trains).

Conditions aboard trains vary according to train type: on commuter trains (Personal) they're usually bad, on Accelerat trains they're almost reasonable, on Rapid or Intercity trains they're good or very good.
Between Sibiu-Sighisoara there are just commuter trains (even the ones operated by Regiotrans).

Between Sibiu-Bucharest there are two overnight trains but none of them actually has sleeper cars. If you need a bed take an evening train to Medias (a town 1 1/2 hours from Sibiu, on a larger rail line), from it there are two night trains with sleepers towards Bucharest

The cheapest decent option for trip (second class seats on Accelerat type trains) costs about $50 pp.
The most expensive option (first class seats on Intercity or Rapid trains + first class sleepers on Sibiu-Bucharest via Medias) costs about $105 pp.

frugaltraveler

wow - thanks flat4... your information is great...
this helps alot

Clifton

I wasn't clear if you had a car. I think there's a lot to poke around for such a small area in Sighisoara, but agree that one long day would cover the citadel.

However - if you have a car, do try to see some of the surrounding small towns around each of Sighisoara, Brasov and Sibiu. And specifically, the fortified walled churches (in various states of continued operation or ruin) in places like Biertan, Apold, Agnita, Harmann, Prejmer and so on. Like the monasteries in Bucovina and the wooden churches in Maramures, I thought these are memorably representative of southern/central Transylvania. Perhaps you might find a tour out to the rural areas if you spent a second day in Sighisoara. Either way, I do very much feel the "pulse" of this part of Romania is rural and an all-city sort of holiday is missing something. Since you can't get that from a Maramures leg of the trip, I thought it worth noting that you needn't miss out on that same sort of "feel" during a Romanian trip. (villages caught in time, old fashioned agriculture underway)

Since Medias has been mentioned.... A side note that it itself has a beautiful collection of buildings in the center without the tourists (which is already not an overwhelming concern, given that you're in Romania, but still...). Wouldn't consider it for an overnighter, but it too was worth a couple of hours of looking around, catching the market, etc.