rkkwan's Sicily and Amalfi driving trip report
Jan 2nd, 2007, 02:54 PM
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rkkwan's Sicily and Amalfi driving trip report
There's actually a subtitle to my subject line. It's <b>"Let's guess how many times rkkwan took the wrong route?"</b> I'll keep a tally, and everybody can start guessing.
Here's the background. It's the second year in a row that my parents and I vacationed in Italy for Christmas. Last year we used public transportation for Rome, Florence and Milan. This time we decided to visit the south, in a car.
I was a truck driver in the US for 2.5 years and am excellent in directions. I've driven in the UK twice, Israel and France, and all over US/Canada of course. I hardly ever get lost, and only occasionally go the wrong way. But as I'd find out, road signs are just horrible in Italy, and while I didn't really get lost, I had to turn around and go back so many times it was ridiculous.
Let me first list our itinerary before the actual report:
12/22 Houston to London.
12/23 London - Palmero. Picked up car.
12/24 Palmero
12/25 Palmero - Monreale - Segesta - Selinunte - Agrigento
12/26 Agrigento - Ragusa
12/27 Ragusa - Siracusa - Catania
12/28 Catania
12/29 Catania - Taormina - Messina - Sorrento
12/30 Sorrento - Amalfi - Sorrento
12/31 Sorrento - Pompei. Returned car at Naples Airport. London
1/1 London - Houston
Anyways, I've already started a few threads on other aspects of the trip:
The Continental flights IAH-LGW, Ryanair STN-PMO, and British Airways NAP-LGW here:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=126&tid=34880799
Traffic on Amalfi Drive:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34920517
And our hotel near Sorrento, which is so great I have to give it its own thread:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34921467
Here's the background. It's the second year in a row that my parents and I vacationed in Italy for Christmas. Last year we used public transportation for Rome, Florence and Milan. This time we decided to visit the south, in a car.
I was a truck driver in the US for 2.5 years and am excellent in directions. I've driven in the UK twice, Israel and France, and all over US/Canada of course. I hardly ever get lost, and only occasionally go the wrong way. But as I'd find out, road signs are just horrible in Italy, and while I didn't really get lost, I had to turn around and go back so many times it was ridiculous.
Let me first list our itinerary before the actual report:
12/22 Houston to London.
12/23 London - Palmero. Picked up car.
12/24 Palmero
12/25 Palmero - Monreale - Segesta - Selinunte - Agrigento
12/26 Agrigento - Ragusa
12/27 Ragusa - Siracusa - Catania
12/28 Catania
12/29 Catania - Taormina - Messina - Sorrento
12/30 Sorrento - Amalfi - Sorrento
12/31 Sorrento - Pompei. Returned car at Naples Airport. London
1/1 London - Houston
Anyways, I've already started a few threads on other aspects of the trip:
The Continental flights IAH-LGW, Ryanair STN-PMO, and British Airways NAP-LGW here:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=126&tid=34880799
Traffic on Amalfi Drive:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34920517
And our hotel near Sorrento, which is so great I have to give it its own thread:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34921467
Jan 2nd, 2007, 03:31 PM
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Oh, and here's my other thread about LGW-STN transfer:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34917343
---
<b>12/22/06 Friday</b>
Got afternoon off from my employer, and because of reported freezing fog problem, we decided to try to get to London early. Continental has two flights IAH, one at 4pm and one at 6:55p. We were booked on the later on.
Got to IAH just after 1pm and put ourselves on the wait list for the early flight. That flight was fully booked, but we were on the top of the list. And we got on. My parents got seats together, and I had a window seat closer to the front. Then I did something many people found incredible. <b>I agreed to switch my window seat for a middle seat</b> with someone on this 8.5 hour flight.
Anyways, flight was uneventful, though I didn't get much sleep. Not because of the middle seat, but that it was simply too early to go to bed on this early flight.
---
<b>Saturday 12/23/06</b>
With 9+ hours between flights, we would "leisurely" made the transfer in London and used the cheapest method possible. First, Southern Trains have a off-peak (this was a Saturday) group ticket for 3 for Gatwick-Victoria <b>plus</b> all day London travelcard for just <b>19.8£</b> for three people traveling together. That's just 6.6£/person, compared to just £9 for a regular day single for Gatwick-Victoria alone! Super deal!!!
No deal at the left luggage, though. £6 /bag per day.
With the travelcard, we went around Westminster, Trafalgar Square, Leichester Square, Oxford St, etc before going back to Victoria. Took the bus in additional to the tube.
Another good deal was a full English breakfast at a little coffee shop near St Martin in the Fields. £16.6 for 3 people is less than IHOP here.
We then took the Terravision bus to Stansted. It was a mob scene at the Green Line Coach station, and if one's in a hurry, I recommend taking the Stansted Express instead. But at £8/person, the Terravision bus is just over half the price of the train.
Stansted was very crowded on this heavy travel day. Security line alone took 25 minutes to clear. We had an early dinner there as we know there would be no food served on Ryanair, and it would be late when got to Palmero.
The flight was about 20 minutes late, but otherwise uneventful. It was first time I flew Ryanair. I won't again, if I have a choice. It's the only airline that flies London-Palmero non-stop, however.
(to be continued)
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34917343
---
<b>12/22/06 Friday</b>
Got afternoon off from my employer, and because of reported freezing fog problem, we decided to try to get to London early. Continental has two flights IAH, one at 4pm and one at 6:55p. We were booked on the later on.
Got to IAH just after 1pm and put ourselves on the wait list for the early flight. That flight was fully booked, but we were on the top of the list. And we got on. My parents got seats together, and I had a window seat closer to the front. Then I did something many people found incredible. <b>I agreed to switch my window seat for a middle seat</b> with someone on this 8.5 hour flight.
Anyways, flight was uneventful, though I didn't get much sleep. Not because of the middle seat, but that it was simply too early to go to bed on this early flight.
---
<b>Saturday 12/23/06</b>
With 9+ hours between flights, we would "leisurely" made the transfer in London and used the cheapest method possible. First, Southern Trains have a off-peak (this was a Saturday) group ticket for 3 for Gatwick-Victoria <b>plus</b> all day London travelcard for just <b>19.8£</b> for three people traveling together. That's just 6.6£/person, compared to just £9 for a regular day single for Gatwick-Victoria alone! Super deal!!!
No deal at the left luggage, though. £6 /bag per day.
With the travelcard, we went around Westminster, Trafalgar Square, Leichester Square, Oxford St, etc before going back to Victoria. Took the bus in additional to the tube.
Another good deal was a full English breakfast at a little coffee shop near St Martin in the Fields. £16.6 for 3 people is less than IHOP here.
We then took the Terravision bus to Stansted. It was a mob scene at the Green Line Coach station, and if one's in a hurry, I recommend taking the Stansted Express instead. But at £8/person, the Terravision bus is just over half the price of the train.
Stansted was very crowded on this heavy travel day. Security line alone took 25 minutes to clear. We had an early dinner there as we know there would be no food served on Ryanair, and it would be late when got to Palmero.
The flight was about 20 minutes late, but otherwise uneventful. It was first time I flew Ryanair. I won't again, if I have a choice. It's the only airline that flies London-Palmero non-stop, however.
(to be continued)
Jan 2nd, 2007, 04:41 PM
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Picked up car from Hertz (booked through AutoEurope) with no problem. They did ask for the IDP. Our car is a Renault Clio 5-door, A/C, manual. Best of all, it was a diesel.
The Clio is in the Economy category, and it's really the perfect size to negotiate Italian roads and traffic. Its trunk is just long enough for 22" rollaboards, so 3-4 people each carrying one WILL fit such cars.
It's a 1.5 "direct common rail" diesel with 90HP but lots of torque for such a small car. Very easy to drive, though it had trouble maintaing 130km/h (80MPH) on a couple of uphills on the A3 in southern Italy. According to some specs I've read, it should get about 50MPG, but overall, I only got 40MPG, probably because of my heavy foot.
I have Michelin's Italy 1:300,000 road atlas. Not as good as the 1:200,000 France one, but okay. I've also printed out local maps of my hotels from viamichelin.com and have studied the routes (inclding which streets are one-way) quite a bit. I thought I was fairly well-prepared, but I was wrong.
No problem getting onto the autostrada from PMO, but at night, the road signs were very hard to see. The autostrada ended just outside Palmero and became a sort of a pseudo freeway that one can't cross to the other side except at certain junctions. Sort of like Rte 1 north of Boston.
Anyhow, I missed the very small sign for "Centro", and had to travel at least 1.5 miles further to get back. <b>Wrong Route #1</b>. Found the right street towards central Palermo, but then turned just a tiny bit too early the next time. Instead of going diagonal SE towards the center, I was traveling South. <b>WR #2</b> No big deal, as I found a way to get back east towards Teatro Massimo and only added a few blocks to my route.
Then it was too late before I found the tiny street that cuts over to the main street my hotel was at, so had to go around the block before getting there. <b>WR #3</b>
We stayed for two nights at <b>Hotel Elite</b>, one of the better 3* hotels in central Palermo. Lots of restaurants and highend stores nearby, and Teatro Massimo is only about 3 minutes walk. Location can't be better.
However, it only occupied 2 floors of a large building with three different blocks. Hard to explain, but the entry-way to our hotel is also for 4 others in the same complex. I think of the 5, 3 were 3* and two were 2*. [I later found that the embassy for Ivory Coast is also in the complex.] I had to leave the car with my parents double-parked on the street while I went in. The lobby is on the 5th floor, and one guy working the front desk (who spoke good English) came down with me and drove us around the block to get to the locked garage. (Only he has key).
Our triple room is quite spacious and decent looking. Better than the 3* Sonya we stayed in Rome last year. Our window looked out to the roofs of other buildings, but the mountains to the north is also visible.
It was midnight when we settled in. It was a long long day.
<b>Wrong route this day: 3
Wrong route so far: 3</b>
The Clio is in the Economy category, and it's really the perfect size to negotiate Italian roads and traffic. Its trunk is just long enough for 22" rollaboards, so 3-4 people each carrying one WILL fit such cars.
It's a 1.5 "direct common rail" diesel with 90HP but lots of torque for such a small car. Very easy to drive, though it had trouble maintaing 130km/h (80MPH) on a couple of uphills on the A3 in southern Italy. According to some specs I've read, it should get about 50MPG, but overall, I only got 40MPG, probably because of my heavy foot.
I have Michelin's Italy 1:300,000 road atlas. Not as good as the 1:200,000 France one, but okay. I've also printed out local maps of my hotels from viamichelin.com and have studied the routes (inclding which streets are one-way) quite a bit. I thought I was fairly well-prepared, but I was wrong.
No problem getting onto the autostrada from PMO, but at night, the road signs were very hard to see. The autostrada ended just outside Palmero and became a sort of a pseudo freeway that one can't cross to the other side except at certain junctions. Sort of like Rte 1 north of Boston.
Anyhow, I missed the very small sign for "Centro", and had to travel at least 1.5 miles further to get back. <b>Wrong Route #1</b>. Found the right street towards central Palermo, but then turned just a tiny bit too early the next time. Instead of going diagonal SE towards the center, I was traveling South. <b>WR #2</b> No big deal, as I found a way to get back east towards Teatro Massimo and only added a few blocks to my route.
Then it was too late before I found the tiny street that cuts over to the main street my hotel was at, so had to go around the block before getting there. <b>WR #3</b>
We stayed for two nights at <b>Hotel Elite</b>, one of the better 3* hotels in central Palermo. Lots of restaurants and highend stores nearby, and Teatro Massimo is only about 3 minutes walk. Location can't be better.
However, it only occupied 2 floors of a large building with three different blocks. Hard to explain, but the entry-way to our hotel is also for 4 others in the same complex. I think of the 5, 3 were 3* and two were 2*. [I later found that the embassy for Ivory Coast is also in the complex.] I had to leave the car with my parents double-parked on the street while I went in. The lobby is on the 5th floor, and one guy working the front desk (who spoke good English) came down with me and drove us around the block to get to the locked garage. (Only he has key).
Our triple room is quite spacious and decent looking. Better than the 3* Sonya we stayed in Rome last year. Our window looked out to the roofs of other buildings, but the mountains to the north is also visible.
It was midnight when we settled in. It was a long long day.
<b>Wrong route this day: 3
Wrong route so far: 3</b>
Jan 2nd, 2007, 05:25 PM
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As someone who once went hours out of her way as a result of a wrong turn in France, I am enjoying your trip report.
I also loved Sicily, but went on an elderhostel trip when I went--and missed all the "interesting" driving and aggravation.
I also loved Sicily, but went on an elderhostel trip when I went--and missed all the "interesting" driving and aggravation.
Jan 3rd, 2007, 12:59 AM
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<b>Sunday 12/24/06 Palermo</b>
Didn't touch the car today, so no increase in the total tally.
It's an easy day walking around the old town. Tried not to over-stress ourselves after the long travel day. Breakfast is excellent at the Elite. Their breakfast hour is a late 8-10:30. I didn't realize until later that work day doesn't start until 9. More on that later.
First stop is the <b>Teatro Massimo</b>, just 2 blocks from our hotel. They opened for visitors at 10a sharp, and first tour departed at around 10:15a. It's a shorter tour than say the Garnier one in Paris, but still pretty interesting. Good English-speaking guide, 25 minutes, €5. Senior €3, and doens't need to be EU citizens. I think there were about 7-8 in our group.
Next stop, the <b>Cathedral</b>. They were having mass when we got there, so we couldn't only stand at the back. No walking around.
Then, we went to the <b>Palazzo dei Normani</b>. Its <b>Cappella Palatina</b> has really limited opening hours, and we just caught the 12-1p window on the Sunday. Entrance fee is a steep €9 (highest in the whole trip except for Pompei), but includes the palazzo itself.
Unfortunately, most of the roof and the choir inside the capella are under restoration and are covered. Still, we caught a glimpse of the golden mosaic. We're quite disappointed until we got up to the upper level to tour the palazzo. It's a brief tour by one of the guards, but the place was amazing. Together, it's well worth the admission.
What's not is the <b>San Giovanni degli Eremiti</b> next door. The cloister was closed, and the red Arab domes can be seen from outside better. Nothing to see inside for €3.
It was well past 1pm, and time for lunch. There's a little tent place across from the church with interesting food, so we sat down. Basically they guy has a huge piece of roast pork leg, and it came with bread, and lots of cooked and picked vegetables on the side. We ordered two portions plus soft drinks. Food was excellent, but the guy definitely overcharged us. We weren't aware of how cheap things are in Sicily yet at that time, so we paid our €34 happily. €24 would be more like it.
Didn't touch the car today, so no increase in the total tally.
It's an easy day walking around the old town. Tried not to over-stress ourselves after the long travel day. Breakfast is excellent at the Elite. Their breakfast hour is a late 8-10:30. I didn't realize until later that work day doesn't start until 9. More on that later.
First stop is the <b>Teatro Massimo</b>, just 2 blocks from our hotel. They opened for visitors at 10a sharp, and first tour departed at around 10:15a. It's a shorter tour than say the Garnier one in Paris, but still pretty interesting. Good English-speaking guide, 25 minutes, €5. Senior €3, and doens't need to be EU citizens. I think there were about 7-8 in our group.
Next stop, the <b>Cathedral</b>. They were having mass when we got there, so we couldn't only stand at the back. No walking around.
Then, we went to the <b>Palazzo dei Normani</b>. Its <b>Cappella Palatina</b> has really limited opening hours, and we just caught the 12-1p window on the Sunday. Entrance fee is a steep €9 (highest in the whole trip except for Pompei), but includes the palazzo itself.
Unfortunately, most of the roof and the choir inside the capella are under restoration and are covered. Still, we caught a glimpse of the golden mosaic. We're quite disappointed until we got up to the upper level to tour the palazzo. It's a brief tour by one of the guards, but the place was amazing. Together, it's well worth the admission.
What's not is the <b>San Giovanni degli Eremiti</b> next door. The cloister was closed, and the red Arab domes can be seen from outside better. Nothing to see inside for €3.
It was well past 1pm, and time for lunch. There's a little tent place across from the church with interesting food, so we sat down. Basically they guy has a huge piece of roast pork leg, and it came with bread, and lots of cooked and picked vegetables on the side. We ordered two portions plus soft drinks. Food was excellent, but the guy definitely overcharged us. We weren't aware of how cheap things are in Sicily yet at that time, so we paid our €34 happily. €24 would be more like it.
Jan 3rd, 2007, 10:33 AM
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Enjoying this very much indeed - am planning a March or May visit to Sicily and am wondering whether to do the "return the car at naples" route - so will read with interest the rest of yor trip report
Jan 3rd, 2007, 07:29 PM
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After lunch, we walked along Via Vittorio Emanuele, the main thoroughfare of the city, towards <b>Piazza Marina</b>, via landmarks like <b>Quattro Canti</b> and <b>Fontana Pretoria</b>.
The city was basically dead with no traffic and all stores closed. We were thinking that was because it was Christmas Eve. Later on, we found out that the whole Sicily shut down between 1 and 4 in the afternoon.
And then it started to rain. I am pretty sure it's all because during lunch, I text-messaged some people in US and Hong Kong to say Merry Christmas and told them how nice the weather was in Sicily. Anyways, we continued to walk around a bit, and out towards the harbor, before going back to the hotel for a nap. I have to say that this "Northern" part of Palermo isn't as interesting as the "Southern" part we visited in the morning. (North Palermo is actually east of South Palermo).
At around 8, we went to find dinner. Some restaurants in the area were closed for Christmas Eve, but otherwise the street was pretty lively. The hotel staff recommended <b>Lo Sparviero</b> just north of Teatro Massimo, and the food was pretty good. Moderately priced. When we got in, we were like the first customers. But more and more people came in later on, and the place was basically packed by around 10.
Since, we didn't use the car today,
<b>Wrong route this day: 0
Wrong route so far: 3</b>
The city was basically dead with no traffic and all stores closed. We were thinking that was because it was Christmas Eve. Later on, we found out that the whole Sicily shut down between 1 and 4 in the afternoon.
And then it started to rain. I am pretty sure it's all because during lunch, I text-messaged some people in US and Hong Kong to say Merry Christmas and told them how nice the weather was in Sicily. Anyways, we continued to walk around a bit, and out towards the harbor, before going back to the hotel for a nap. I have to say that this "Northern" part of Palermo isn't as interesting as the "Southern" part we visited in the morning. (North Palermo is actually east of South Palermo).
At around 8, we went to find dinner. Some restaurants in the area were closed for Christmas Eve, but otherwise the street was pretty lively. The hotel staff recommended <b>Lo Sparviero</b> just north of Teatro Massimo, and the food was pretty good. Moderately priced. When we got in, we were like the first customers. But more and more people came in later on, and the place was basically packed by around 10.
Since, we didn't use the car today,
<b>Wrong route this day: 0
Wrong route so far: 3</b>
Jan 4th, 2007, 04:25 AM
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Hi rkkwan, you do get around! Last time, not so long ago, you were in Normandy. As always, I am enjoying your report - love your writing style.
You mention you wouldn't use Ryanair again from London to Palermo. What was it about that airline's policies/procedures that got to you?
You mention you wouldn't use Ryanair again from London to Palermo. What was it about that airline's policies/procedures that got to you?
Jan 4th, 2007, 05:58 AM
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Sue - I went to Belgium and France in September, and then a long two-week trip to Hong Kong and China in early November. I had a couple of very long threads in the Asia board on that trip.
As for Ryanair, here's why I wouldn't fly them if I have a choice:
- Check-in. You can't do online check-in with checked luggage, so it's back to the old ways. The check-in lobby was an absolutely mess at STN when we got there, and had to squeeze through interlocking lines for various flights to get to ours. Fortunately, we got there early and the Palermo line was very very short. Granted it was 12/23 and lots of British vacationers leaving town.
- The security line took 25 minutes to clear. It was orderly, but still 5 times longer than I've waited at IAH, or twice than EWR.
- Then once we got to the gate, which was about 40 minutes before flight time, all the seats adjacent to the gate were already taken, and the boarding line has formed. In order for us to sit together, we had to line up too. If I were traveling alone, or on a shorter flight (STN-PMO is almost 3 hours), then I'd just wait until everybody has boarded.
- It's stairs down to the tarmac and then walk to the plane and up. I don't have problem with walking, but if one doesn't walk fast, then others will overtake you to get to the plane first for choice seats.
- The seat pitch is about 29", and no recline. I am a short person that's particularly large, but when the tray table is lowered, there's only about 1/2" of clearance between the table and my belly. [Not that you need the table for anything...]
- Even though the whole flight was in darkness (we departed about 5pm London time and arrived PMO 9pm Italy time), they never dimmed the lights. That's because the FAs spent the whole trip selling stuff. 80% of the announcements over the PA are also about shopping and the lucky draw (one free roundtrip ticket to be given away on each flight to the shoppers). Add to that the non-reclining seat and banaana-yellow seat shells, it's hard to get any real rest. (They don't want you to, as you can't shop while sleeping).
---
But that's just me. Perhaps if our tickets weren't that expensive (full fare, about $200 for the one-way), I may be able to overlook some stuff. And if you're the type that lines up overnight to shop at Wal-Mart the day after Thanksgiving, then Ryanair is probably for you.
Just not for me.
As for Ryanair, here's why I wouldn't fly them if I have a choice:
- Check-in. You can't do online check-in with checked luggage, so it's back to the old ways. The check-in lobby was an absolutely mess at STN when we got there, and had to squeeze through interlocking lines for various flights to get to ours. Fortunately, we got there early and the Palermo line was very very short. Granted it was 12/23 and lots of British vacationers leaving town.
- The security line took 25 minutes to clear. It was orderly, but still 5 times longer than I've waited at IAH, or twice than EWR.
- Then once we got to the gate, which was about 40 minutes before flight time, all the seats adjacent to the gate were already taken, and the boarding line has formed. In order for us to sit together, we had to line up too. If I were traveling alone, or on a shorter flight (STN-PMO is almost 3 hours), then I'd just wait until everybody has boarded.
- It's stairs down to the tarmac and then walk to the plane and up. I don't have problem with walking, but if one doesn't walk fast, then others will overtake you to get to the plane first for choice seats.
- The seat pitch is about 29", and no recline. I am a short person that's particularly large, but when the tray table is lowered, there's only about 1/2" of clearance between the table and my belly. [Not that you need the table for anything...]
- Even though the whole flight was in darkness (we departed about 5pm London time and arrived PMO 9pm Italy time), they never dimmed the lights. That's because the FAs spent the whole trip selling stuff. 80% of the announcements over the PA are also about shopping and the lucky draw (one free roundtrip ticket to be given away on each flight to the shoppers). Add to that the non-reclining seat and banaana-yellow seat shells, it's hard to get any real rest. (They don't want you to, as you can't shop while sleeping).
---
But that's just me. Perhaps if our tickets weren't that expensive (full fare, about $200 for the one-way), I may be able to overlook some stuff. And if you're the type that lines up overnight to shop at Wal-Mart the day after Thanksgiving, then Ryanair is probably for you.
Just not for me.
Jan 4th, 2007, 12:25 PM
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<< - The seat pitch is about 29", and no recline. I am a short person that's particularly large, but when the tray table is lowered, there's only about 1/2" of clearance between the table and my belly. >>
I think you meant to type "I am a short person who's <b>not</b> particularly large"?
I think you meant to type "I am a short person who's <b>not</b> particularly large"?
Jan 4th, 2007, 12:49 PM
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Yes, thanks, yk. I remember your little Ryanair experience back then, and was thinking about it the whole way. Well, since that time, Ryanair has become a much larger airline, making buckets load of money and flying very new planes. Apparently, the UK vacationers and other budget travelers have quite a different opinion than us.
---
Anyways, sorry for being so slow with the trip report. I'll try to pick it up tonite, and I still have like 900 photos to process and to get them posted.
---
Anyways, sorry for being so slow with the trip report. I'll try to pick it up tonite, and I still have like 900 photos to process and to get them posted.
Jan 4th, 2007, 07:01 PM
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Photos of London have been posted:
rkkwan.zenfolio.com/p828338974/
My Tripadvisor.com review of Hotel Elite in Palermo has been posted. Do a search for that hotel name and you should find it.
---
<b>Sunday 12/25/06 Monreale - Segesta - Selinunte - Agrigento</b>
This was Christmas Day and after breakfast we checked out of the hotel, got the car, and headed to <b>Monreale</b>. It is on a hill overlooking Palermo, just a few minutes away.
We were really lucky to find a parking spot right across from the Catherdral. A police woman kindly instructed me to buy the parking scratch tickets at a tabacchi, and even showed me how to do it. We bought two, €0.5 each.
The <b>Monreale Cathedral</b> with the golden mosaic interior is a must see for any visitor to Palermo, and so is the cloister. The latter has a steep €6 admission with a seperate entrance. One can also get a great view of the city from a terrace next to the church.
Leaving Monreale, we continued on the winding S186 over the hill and then got onto A29 at Partinico. Segesta is off the 1st exit after the split towards Trapani.
Two things to see at <b>Segesta</b> (6&euro
. The well preserved Greek temple and the theater on top of Monte Barbaro. Feeling fresh and strong, we decided to hike up Monte Barbaro instead of taking the bus €1.5. It was actually quite a hike, taking about 45 minutes going up, and perhaps 20 down. The view from up there was majestic. The temple was equally amazing. There were very very few visitors. Fewer than 10 cars at the parking lot, where we had a lunch picnic.
After lunch, we rejoined A29 to cross over to the SE side of Sicily and visited <b>Selinunte</b> (6&euro on the Mediterranean Coast.
If you're into Greek temples, this is the mecca for you. The archaeological site, with 3 colossal temples on the Eastern Hill and several mall on the well-preserved seaside acropolis, was more amazing than anything I've seen in Greece itself, except for the Parthenon. This place is a MUST SEE for any visitor to Sicily and another person interested in ancient Greece.
This place was even more empty than Segesta. There were 4 cars including ours when we got there, 3 cars when we left. But signs were non-existent there. We walked from the Eastern Hill to the Acropolis, and could barely found our path. Later I realized most people drive over instead.
Just before leaving Selinunte, we drove down to the seaside village where my dad stayed for a couple of days 40+ years ago during his last visit to Sicily.
It was late in the afternoon when we started the 100km drive along S115 to Agrigento. We would follow this highway all the way to Siracusa 2 days later.
I missed a turn at Sciacca. The road came to a W-shaped fork. No time to read the sign, and I went straight. Turned out S115 is the left fork. No big deal, just turned around and rejoined it.
It was totally dark (~6:30) when we approached Agrigento. Our hotel is in Villagio Mosé, east of Agrigento, so I was looking for the bypass. Can't remember the detail, but I turned off too early and ended up in some residential area in Porto Empedocle, the port city of Agrigento. Had to make a couple of turns and got back to the highway.
To this date, I still can't figure out where the actual turnoff for the bypass is, and what I did wrong, but this time I went up to Agrigento center. Had to make a U-turn, came down the hill, and pulled into a gas station to figure out my way. I knew the relationship between the Vallei de Templi and my hotel, so I followed the signs for Vallei de Templi and finally got to Villagio Mosé.
But I still made a turn too early for my hotel. No big deal, I just came around from the back side to the hotel instead of the front.
We stayed at <b>Hotel Tre Torre</b>. Decent price from hotels.com and reviews on Tripadvisor looks okay. It's a large 3* with about 100 rooms, but the place definitely needs a major refurbishments. The corridor and interior of the room dates from the 1970's, though windows are new and well-sealed.
Due to the Christmas holiday and low-season, the hotel restaurant was closed 12/24-26, and many others in Villagio Mosé as well. But the excellent front desk staff recommended us "Kokalos", about a 3 minute drive away. It sits on a ridge over some vineyards and have a great view of the well-lit Temple of Hera. Good was great and reasonably priced.
We wouldn't have time to visit the town center of Agrigento the next day, so we decided to just drive up to it after dinner. Agrigento is a classic Italian hilltown, with zig-zagging roads leading up to the town center. We drove along the main street, Via Atenea, and later found the narrow one-lane road to the main Cathedral. There was a lot of construction around it, and it seemed to be temporarily closed. I found my way back to our hotel with no problem.
<b>Wrong route this day: 4
Wrong route so far: 7</b>
Oh, my little review of Tre Torre in Agrigento has also been posted on Tripadvisor.com now. I say give it a pass.
rkkwan.zenfolio.com/p828338974/
My Tripadvisor.com review of Hotel Elite in Palermo has been posted. Do a search for that hotel name and you should find it.
---
<b>Sunday 12/25/06 Monreale - Segesta - Selinunte - Agrigento</b>
This was Christmas Day and after breakfast we checked out of the hotel, got the car, and headed to <b>Monreale</b>. It is on a hill overlooking Palermo, just a few minutes away.
We were really lucky to find a parking spot right across from the Catherdral. A police woman kindly instructed me to buy the parking scratch tickets at a tabacchi, and even showed me how to do it. We bought two, €0.5 each.
The <b>Monreale Cathedral</b> with the golden mosaic interior is a must see for any visitor to Palermo, and so is the cloister. The latter has a steep €6 admission with a seperate entrance. One can also get a great view of the city from a terrace next to the church.
Leaving Monreale, we continued on the winding S186 over the hill and then got onto A29 at Partinico. Segesta is off the 1st exit after the split towards Trapani.
Two things to see at <b>Segesta</b> (6&euro
. The well preserved Greek temple and the theater on top of Monte Barbaro. Feeling fresh and strong, we decided to hike up Monte Barbaro instead of taking the bus €1.5. It was actually quite a hike, taking about 45 minutes going up, and perhaps 20 down. The view from up there was majestic. The temple was equally amazing. There were very very few visitors. Fewer than 10 cars at the parking lot, where we had a lunch picnic.After lunch, we rejoined A29 to cross over to the SE side of Sicily and visited <b>Selinunte</b> (6&euro
on the Mediterranean Coast.If you're into Greek temples, this is the mecca for you. The archaeological site, with 3 colossal temples on the Eastern Hill and several mall on the well-preserved seaside acropolis, was more amazing than anything I've seen in Greece itself, except for the Parthenon. This place is a MUST SEE for any visitor to Sicily and another person interested in ancient Greece.
This place was even more empty than Segesta. There were 4 cars including ours when we got there, 3 cars when we left. But signs were non-existent there. We walked from the Eastern Hill to the Acropolis, and could barely found our path. Later I realized most people drive over instead.
Just before leaving Selinunte, we drove down to the seaside village where my dad stayed for a couple of days 40+ years ago during his last visit to Sicily.
It was late in the afternoon when we started the 100km drive along S115 to Agrigento. We would follow this highway all the way to Siracusa 2 days later.
I missed a turn at Sciacca. The road came to a W-shaped fork. No time to read the sign, and I went straight. Turned out S115 is the left fork. No big deal, just turned around and rejoined it.
It was totally dark (~6:30) when we approached Agrigento. Our hotel is in Villagio Mosé, east of Agrigento, so I was looking for the bypass. Can't remember the detail, but I turned off too early and ended up in some residential area in Porto Empedocle, the port city of Agrigento. Had to make a couple of turns and got back to the highway.
To this date, I still can't figure out where the actual turnoff for the bypass is, and what I did wrong, but this time I went up to Agrigento center. Had to make a U-turn, came down the hill, and pulled into a gas station to figure out my way. I knew the relationship between the Vallei de Templi and my hotel, so I followed the signs for Vallei de Templi and finally got to Villagio Mosé.
But I still made a turn too early for my hotel. No big deal, I just came around from the back side to the hotel instead of the front.
We stayed at <b>Hotel Tre Torre</b>. Decent price from hotels.com and reviews on Tripadvisor looks okay. It's a large 3* with about 100 rooms, but the place definitely needs a major refurbishments. The corridor and interior of the room dates from the 1970's, though windows are new and well-sealed.
Due to the Christmas holiday and low-season, the hotel restaurant was closed 12/24-26, and many others in Villagio Mosé as well. But the excellent front desk staff recommended us "Kokalos", about a 3 minute drive away. It sits on a ridge over some vineyards and have a great view of the well-lit Temple of Hera. Good was great and reasonably priced.
We wouldn't have time to visit the town center of Agrigento the next day, so we decided to just drive up to it after dinner. Agrigento is a classic Italian hilltown, with zig-zagging roads leading up to the town center. We drove along the main street, Via Atenea, and later found the narrow one-lane road to the main Cathedral. There was a lot of construction around it, and it seemed to be temporarily closed. I found my way back to our hotel with no problem.
<b>Wrong route this day: 4
Wrong route so far: 7</b>
Oh, my little review of Tre Torre in Agrigento has also been posted on Tripadvisor.com now. I say give it a pass.
Jan 4th, 2007, 11:33 PM
#19
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also enjoying reading your report. We were in Sicily earlier this year and it brings back nice memories.
I'm with you on the road signs, we had a lot of unvoluntary detours as well. I'v never had a problem in the rest of Italy but in Sicily I just couldnt figure out the system (if there is one...). Also may I compliment you on driving through Palermo traffic. We weren't planning driving into Palermo but ended up there after taking a wrong turn
. I swear there were about 9 cars driving next to each other on a road with only 4 lanes! I was very happy to get out safe and sound (also because we didn't get an all risk insurance )
I'm with you on the road signs, we had a lot of unvoluntary detours as well. I'v never had a problem in the rest of Italy but in Sicily I just couldnt figure out the system (if there is one...). Also may I compliment you on driving through Palermo traffic. We weren't planning driving into Palermo but ended up there after taking a wrong turn
. I swear there were about 9 cars driving next to each other on a road with only 4 lanes! I was very happy to get out safe and sound (also because we didn't get an all risk insurance )
Jan 5th, 2007, 01:49 PM
#20
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Let me say something about <b>food</b> first, before continuing on the travelogue.
- All our hotels include breakfast. All are very good, with bread, croissant, various jams, cheese and ham, juice, cereal, fruits. Yes, for some reason, they love croissants there! Coffee are made when ordered.
- We bought smoked salmon, canned sardines, juice, sparkling wine at supermarkets to have picnic lunches on many days.
- We would then have a decent dinner at a trattoria or ristorante.
- Seafood is really inexpensive in Sicily. Lots of clams, mussels, sardines, various small fishes, squid, calamari, octopus, tuna, swordfish. In fact, we have seafood for all meals except one (will get to that in the main trip report).
One thing about the Sicilian menu, besides the abundance of seafood, is that portion size of the 1st course (i.e. the pasta dish). They have lots of seafood in it, and is a meal by itself. Therefore, it's totally adequate and acceptable to just order two of the three courses, and that's usually how we order. My dad may have a antipasta and 1st course, my mom may have a 1st and 2nd course, while I may have a antipasta and a 2nd course, etc...
The prices are very very reasonable. Antipasta usually 3.5 - 5 EUR, 1st course <10, and so is second course. With a carafe of wine, a liter bottle of water, and three capuccinos at the end, it's usually only about 60-75 EUR for three people, including coverage charge. No tax or extra tip necessary.
Because of the 9-1 and 4-8 work hours, restaurants don't open until 8. We are used to early dinner at home, so we were usually the first customers. The place would then gradually fill up, and many locals don't dine until 10p or later.
- So, if one likes seafood, Sicily is really great. If not, there are still various meat dishes and pizzas. So, no need to worry.
- All our hotels include breakfast. All are very good, with bread, croissant, various jams, cheese and ham, juice, cereal, fruits. Yes, for some reason, they love croissants there! Coffee are made when ordered.
- We bought smoked salmon, canned sardines, juice, sparkling wine at supermarkets to have picnic lunches on many days.
- We would then have a decent dinner at a trattoria or ristorante.
- Seafood is really inexpensive in Sicily. Lots of clams, mussels, sardines, various small fishes, squid, calamari, octopus, tuna, swordfish. In fact, we have seafood for all meals except one (will get to that in the main trip report).
One thing about the Sicilian menu, besides the abundance of seafood, is that portion size of the 1st course (i.e. the pasta dish). They have lots of seafood in it, and is a meal by itself. Therefore, it's totally adequate and acceptable to just order two of the three courses, and that's usually how we order. My dad may have a antipasta and 1st course, my mom may have a 1st and 2nd course, while I may have a antipasta and a 2nd course, etc...
The prices are very very reasonable. Antipasta usually 3.5 - 5 EUR, 1st course <10, and so is second course. With a carafe of wine, a liter bottle of water, and three capuccinos at the end, it's usually only about 60-75 EUR for three people, including coverage charge. No tax or extra tip necessary.
Because of the 9-1 and 4-8 work hours, restaurants don't open until 8. We are used to early dinner at home, so we were usually the first customers. The place would then gradually fill up, and many locals don't dine until 10p or later.
- So, if one likes seafood, Sicily is really great. If not, there are still various meat dishes and pizzas. So, no need to worry.
