Revisiting London in March 2014

Old Jul 7th, 2014, 12:46 PM
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Revisiting London in March 2014

This is my first trip report since joining Fodors in 2005. I have been the beneficiary of much information from the forums. This was my 3rd trip in four years to London. I had last visited London in 2000 and these trips have put London into my soul. I returned to London in 2011 to see the royal wedding with a friend. I returned in 2012 to attend and volunteer for Coca Cola at the Olympic Games. I skipped 2013 but was able to return for a week long trip this past March, using air miles from British Airways. This trip allowed me to revisit places, see new ones and see some of the best theater in the world.
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 12:51 PM
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Day 1 Arrival Day. The overnight flight from ORD went smoothly. The flight was delayed by a few minutes and flight time was 6hrs 50min to LHR. This was a later flight than I usually take, and it worked out well to arrive late morning, rather that really early morning. I took my Oyster Card (with some cash still on it) to the TFL ticket booth and had them put a 7 day Travelcard onto it and away I went to Earls Court. I had been able to stay with a friend in Islington on my most recent trips, but she is back in the States so I had to find a hotel this time. I searched Trip Advisor and Fodors for suggestions and I settled on the Nadler Kensington at 25 Courtfield Gardens. I was happy with my choice as it was a less than 5 min walk from Earls Court station and each room has a “closet Kitchen” that included a sink, fridge, microwave, electric kettle with dishes and utensils. I was greeted warmly by the staff and check in was a breeze. The hotel is immaculate, very clean with plush carpet throughout and a modern look. My room was small, but efficient and comfortable. The bathroom was roomy and the storage was adequate. I unpacked, turned on the TV and relaxed for about an hour, before I took a shower and made my way to Westminster.

I always try to start my trips to London by taking the Tube to Westminster so my first view above ground is of the Queen Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben),the Houses of Parliament and the Thames. The sun was out so the tower was gleaming in the afternoon light (perfect for taking photos). I walked over to Westminster Abbey, walked around Parliament Square and walked up Whitehall to Horse Guards. I walked through the archway and across Horse Guards Parade to St. James’ Park. The last time I was in Horse Guards Parade, I was watching Olympic beach volleyball in a stadium! Spring had sprung!! It was in the mid 60’s and the daffodils were in profusion throughout the park. It had been a very cold and long winter here in WI , so it was refreshing to see green grass and flowers again. There were many people out and enjoying this spring Friday afternoon.

I walked to Buckingham Palace and then down The Mall to Admiralty Arch and Trafalgar Square.
Trafalgar Square was full of people, most in motion. The National Gallery and St. Martin in the Fields glowed in the afternoon sun. The buskers were drawing crowds, it was great people watching. I was feeling hungry and fatigued, so I got a sandwich and a coke from Pret A Manger, sat outside and watched the parade of tourists and Londoners. I was refreshed and decided to check out the National Gallery. I got the floor plan brochure, and did the “highlights” tour. It was great to see all of the art, and thegallery settings are done very well. The layout was a bit muddled, as they were getting ready for a special Veronese exhibit. I am glad the National Gallery was free, I was very fatigued and by 6:30 I was ready to head back to the hotel.
I took the tube back to Earls Court and stopped at the M&S Simply Food for some provisions for breakfast and snacks, and settled in for the evening.
Next up: Portabello Road, Oxford Street and Simon Callow "Being Shakespeare"
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 01:28 PM
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Looking forward to more!
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 01:59 PM
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Hi OLYMPICGAYM.

'I always try to start my trips to London by taking the Tube to Westminster so my first view above ground is of the Queen Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben),the Houses of Parliament and the Thames."

I never tire of the spot either. Just returned from ten days solo in London and am always interested in what others do there.
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 02:45 PM
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No trip to London is ever complete without a visit to Westminster and a stop in Trafalgar Square. And St. James Park is my favorite of the London Parks, particularly the birds.
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 06:14 PM
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Thank you for your replies.
Latedaytraveler - I have been following your trip report. I too am always interested in what others do in London. I have come to really love London and the UK.
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 06:19 PM
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Day 2.
I woke up refreshed and took my time getting up and ready for the day. I headed to the Portabello Road Market. I had not been there since 1999 and wanted to see it again. I arrived at the Notting Hill Gate tube station at 930 and followed the ever growing crowd to Portabello Road. It was fun to look at all of the antique stalls and other items on display both on the street and in the stalls and shops along the road. I found a few small items for keepsakes and really enjoyed the people watching. The majority of the market goers were tourists and it was a very interesting parade. I walked through the food market and up to the second hand clothes dealers, where I turned around and headed back toward the Notting Hill Gate station. The crowd had grown greatly as I made my way against the flow of humanity. It was a beautiful warm spring day and everyone, it seemed, wanted to be outside. I took the tube to Bond Street and went to Selfridges. I had not made it to Selfridges on my previous visits, but I got interested from watching Mr. Selfridge on PBS. The store reminded me of the old Marshall Field’s (now Macy’s) on State Street in Chicago. I liked the store a lot and I was able to find a Selfridge & Co. mug and some shortbread cookies for a friend. The clock on the front of the store is impressive and it struck 11:30 as I was approaching! I ventured further down Oxford Street and stopped in at Liberty, my favorite store.
Liberty is such a unique and interesting place to see and shop at. The wood stairs and “neo Tudor/Arts and Crafts” design and interior make it seem all the more quaint and British. I love to browse the home goods department on the 2nd floor and always find some nice bone china pieces to bring home and as gifts.
I got lost in the 3rd floor. The 3rd floor is crafter/quilter/fabric lover central. The Liberty print fabrics are wonderful to see and the many needle craft kits and supplies are top notch (and priced accordingly). I am surrounded by quilters and crafters at home, so I can really appreciate the selection and quality. I bought a bundle of fat quarters for my partner and some other notions. I was getting hungry at this point and my goal was to return to my hotel, drop off my purchases and then try to make the London Walks tour at 2:30. I ate at the The Clachan, a pub just behind Liberty on Kingly Lane. It was good to sit down and have a bite to eat. The service was very slow, and I soon realized that I would not be able to make the walking tour. I decided to get back on the Tube and head to South Kennsington, I decided to pop into the V&A on my way back to Earls Court.
The V&A is one of my favorite museums. I have been in the past for special exhibitions and had not really seen the collection in some time. I followed the highlights map and made my way through the many exhibits. The one item that I remember the most was seeing one of Leonardo Da Vinci’s notebooks. It was an unexpected treat and was worth the visit. I made it back to my room by 4:30 and relaxed a bit before I left for the Gielgud Theater to see Being Shakespeare with Simon Callow. It was a great one man show and Mr. Callow did an excellent job. I finished my Saturday evening with a post theater pizza and glass of wine at Pizza Express.
Next up, walking the City with London Walks and Vikings!
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Old Jul 7th, 2014, 07:11 PM
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Hi again OLYMPICGAYM,

"I bought a bundle of fat quarters [at Liberty] for my partner and some other notions." Question- what are "fat quarters"? I am not into crafts or sewing.

I also ate several times at PIZZA EXPRESS near Trafalgar Square - loved their salads. I am not into fine dining either.

Will follow along...
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Old Jul 8th, 2014, 02:59 AM
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Signing on.
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Old Jul 8th, 2014, 09:57 AM
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Latedaytraveler, fat quarters are a quarter yard of fabric cut in a large square rather than a rectangle. I gives a quilter a larger piece of fabric to cut.

Now onto Day 3
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Old Jul 8th, 2014, 10:07 AM
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Day 3, Sunday
I was able to take my time this morning as my only plans were a walking tour by London Walks of The City and The Vikings exhibit at the British Museum. I took the tube to Monument Station and met up with the London Walks” The Famous Square Mile” walk. We had a group of about 20 and a wonderful guide named Simon. We traversed The City down narrow streets based on the pre 1666 Great Fire street plan, past Wren and Hawksmoor churches and learned about 2000 years of history. The gardens in the bombed out shell of St. Dunstan in the East were a pleasant sanctuary. The tour took a route from The Monument to the Thames, back north to Leadenhall Market , on to Mansion House and ended up at The Guildhall. The tour ran over the two hour mark but we all stayed with the guide to the end. I had been past this area in the past, but stayed on the main streets(Fleet Street) etc. and I had no idea of the wonderful narrow lanes and churches. It was a reminder to me to explore more and slow down. I walked from The Guildhall to St. Pauls where I found a Pret- A- Manger and had a nice casual lunch, enjoying the people watching and warm weather.

I had reserved a time to see The Vikings exhibit at the British Museum for 4PM that afternoon. I have no particular interest in Vikings, but I thought it would be as good a time as any to learn a thing or two. I got to the museum a little after 2 and did a highlights tour of the collection. I had last been to The British Museum in 1999 and it was good to go back. This was the first time I was able to see the wonderful courtyard entry space. The sheer number of artifacts and the scope of human history that you can see in one place is overwhelming, I am glad I went into it knowing that I would not try to see everything. I stopped for a scone and a juice before I went into The Vikings.
The Vikings is a special exhibit that just opened the weekend I was there. The exhibit looked interesting and the centerpiece was to be the longest longboat ever uncovered! I entered the exhibit, and even with our timed entry tickets it was extremely crowded. I took my time reading the background information panels and made my way toward the very crowded display cases. The exhibit was very heavy on Viking jewelry! It was all very intricate and wonderfully made but after a while it became repetitious. I did find it interesting to learn that the Vikings had sailed all the way to the Black Sea. I had always thought they had stayed in northern Europe, Iceland and North America. The Viking longboat frame was a work of modern sculpture, the original parts of the longboat amounted to about 25 per cent. It was interesting though to really look at and read about the technology of the time. The exhibit continued with more of the metal work, and a nice exhibit and lesson on how swords were made and their meaning beyond being a weapon of violence. The exhibit was not the best , but it did teach me a thing or two! I left the museum by 6 PM and took the tube back to my hotel, had a bite to eat at Bella Italia and had a nice relaxing evening in the room.
Next up Windsor.
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Old Jul 8th, 2014, 11:13 AM
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Hi again Olympicgaym,

Wow, you certainly covered a great deal in that "Famous Square Mile" London walk - I love that area around Fleet Street.

Glad you soldiered through on the Viking exhibit - I do find the British Museum overwhelming, but you have to see it in London.
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Old Jul 9th, 2014, 02:32 PM
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Very nice trip report. We ate at a Bella Italia in York. I guess it is a chain?
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Old Jul 10th, 2014, 09:43 AM
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Thank you all for coming along on my trip report!
euopeannovice: Yes Bella Italia is a chain, but a very tasty one!

Latedaytraveler: We did cover a lot of ground on the Londons Walks walk. The guide, Simon was great and he always kept my interest as I am an architecture and history nerd!
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Old Jul 10th, 2014, 09:54 AM
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Day 4 Monday
I took the tube to Paddington to buy my ticket to Windsor in the midst of rush hour. It was a fascinating scene to see everyone go on their way from Paddington. I just stood aside and let everyone go on their way! The train took about a half an hour to get to Windsor with one change at Slough. I arrived at the castle right at opening time and got onto the grounds just ahead of the school groups. There were really no crowds and it was great to have the castle precincts nearly to myself. I had been to the castle in 2000 and it was great to revisit and explore more than the last time. The Royal Standard was waving proudly over the Round Tower and it was a sort of thrill to know that the Queen was in residence. I retrieved my audio tour and entered the castle/palace for a wonderful tour. Queen Mary’s Doll House is an amazing thing, the detail is incredible and the accompanying display of the current Queen’s dolls given by the children of France was nice. The procession of State Rooms, halls, chambers and the Semi-State Rooms are not too overwhelming as the scale seems (if not the gilding on everything) not too over the top. The art collection was a pleasant surprise! I t is very interesting to see the different styles and the evolution of the rooms from different monarchs. The rooms that were rebuilt after the 1992 fire are so well done that one would not even notice. I spent about two hours on the tour, hit the gift shop and walked out the gates to explore Windsor and Eton.
I followed the signs to the Long Walk in Windsor Great Park, so that I could photograph the famous view of the castle with the approach road. It was an overcast and somewhat chilly day, but it was actually good walking weather. The Long Walk, is what its name implies…a long walk! It took a while to walk away from the Castle to get to a point in which you can see the whole expanse of the castle rising above the trees. It was worth the walk and there were many people out and about. I walked back into Windsor and stopped for lunch at the Duchess of Cambridge pub, just outside the Castle walls. The Duchess of Cambridge is a wonderful pub with a fire in the fireplace and several seating options from sofas to tables and the bar. I was led to a table facing the fireplace and had a great view of the front dining room and could also see out the front windows. I ordered a wonderful Fish and Chips lunch and had a nice hour to relax and take it all in. I walked off my lunch by crossing the Thames and walking into Eton. The high street is a lovely mix of architecture with some very old half-timbered store fronts and of course the buildings of Eton College. Eton College was closed to visitors, but from the outside all looked very Tudor and English. It was mid-afternoon and I saw several young men in their “Eton Uniform” walking around and also several who were making their way to play football (soccer). It was an enjoyable stroll and a nice hour walk about. I left Windsor, took the train back to Paddington and the tube to my hotel to relax before I needed to head out to see Angela Lansbury in Blithe Spirit.
I bought the ticket to see Blithe Spirit when I first found out about it and got a lovely seat on the left aisle in the 4th row. I was the seat on the end of the row, and met a great trio of women from Sydney! They come to London for a week of theater on a yearly basis. They were two sisters and their mother and we spent a good amount of time discussing theater and London. She was telling me about how Hugh Jackman's kids went to the same school as hers and that Cate Blanchette's husband is a family friend and she has met them several times. She said they are wonderful down to earth people. I am a solo traveler mostly and it always amazes me how easy it is to meet and have interesting conversations with fellow travelers. The show was wonderful, and the cast was largely familiar to me from watching various British TV shows and movies. Angela Lansbury was great and a treat to watch as Madam Arcati.
The main male lead was played by Charles Edwards (Edith’s missing Mr.Gregson from Downton Abby) with the spirit of his ex -wife played by Jemima Roper (Lost in Austen and Kinky Boots). The rest of the cast were other stage veterans (Simon Jones) and a newcomer playing the maid. The show was still in previews, but the crowd gave the cast a standing ovation.This was a great evening of theater and a great treat to see a veteran actor such as Dame Angela Lansbury. I strolled out of the theater and walked up to Picadilly Circus and took in all of the lights and crowds on a very pleasant London evening. Next up: Stonehenge and Salisbury.
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Old Jul 10th, 2014, 04:29 PM
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Great trip. I am reading carefully as I am off to London in September. I agree about traveling solo and striking up conversations along the way!
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Old Jul 10th, 2014, 06:04 PM
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Hi again OLYMPICGAYMAN,

What a great day. I love WINDSOR. You wrote: "The Royal Standard was waving proudly over the Round Tower and it was a sort of thrill to know that the Queen was in residence."

My question is - where in this complex does the Queen actually live? When we were there last summer, some in our group saw Camilla getting into a SUV.

"I am a solo traveler mostly and it always amazes me how easy it is to meet and have interesting conversations with fellow travelers." Agreed. I do not remember their names, but I look back with fondness on many interactions that I had with fellow travelers along the way.

"The main male lead was played by Charles Edwards (Edith’s missing Mr.Gregson from Downton Abby)" Now that it exciting! Hopefully, Mr. Gregson will return and make Edith's life complete, eh?

Following along...
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Old Jul 10th, 2014, 06:15 PM
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If I recall the Bella Italia we ate at in York was good too.

We enjoyed Windsor but we really enjoyed Hampton Court Palace a lot more. Did you get to go there too?

It is great that you got see Angela Lansbury!
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Old Jul 11th, 2014, 07:32 AM
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Hi All,

Lateday: I believe the royal family live in the section of Windsor Castle facing the long walk and side of the "upper" quadrangle. It would be interesting to see the rooms that we can not see on the tour. I was also able to see the semi-state rooms which are not open all of the time. The standard was no longer flying when I passed by the castle on my way back to the train.
Europeannovice: I enjoy Hampton Court Palace more, as I love to tour gardens and grounds too. Windsor is nice for its long history and being a current royal residenceI was last at HCP in 2011. I toured Buckingham and Kensington Palaces in 2012. It was nice to contrast and compare them all over time.
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Old Jul 11th, 2014, 09:02 AM
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Day 5: Stonehenge and Salisbury.

I wanted to really get out of London and explore further afield, so I decided to take the train to Salisbury and take the Stonehenge tour bus to Stonehenge. The train takes about 1.5 hours from Waterloo to Salisbury. I walked out of the station in Salisbury and saw the sign marking the bus stop for the Stonehenge tour Bus. The fare was 26 pounds and that includes narrated bus tour of Salisbury to Stonehenge, admission to Stonehenge, Old Sarum and Salisbury Cathedral. The narration was good as an overview of Salisbury and the landscape to Stonehenge. The ride to Stonehenge takes about 1/2hour and the driver takes care of your admission to the site.
Stonehenge has just built a new visitor center that is very nicely done. The visitor center has two buildings with one roof that unifies the buildings and a breezeway between. One building houses the gift shop and cafeteria and the other is a museum with some really good audio visual presentation about Stonehenge and how it has evolved and changed over time. They were also building replicas of Neolithic houses too. The visitor center is also where you catch the tram that takes you to the stones. There is a new system in place where you reserve your tram time to take you to the stones, you can also walk the mile long walk if you want. The tram drops you off at the site of the former visitor center across from the stones(they were still clearing out the remains of the old visitor center). My first impression of Stonehenge was that the stones were taller than I thought and the size of the circle was smaller than I expected. The stone circle is more fascinating when you read up on the location and the surrounding countryside. There are many mounds (barrows) in the area and realize that this area has been inhabited and important for a very long time. The path around the stones gets you pretty close and then gets farther away as you walk around. There are also some very good interpretive signs to explain the site. This day was the most overcast and cold day I had on this trip, and I should have brought another layer and some gloves to wear! It was very windy in Wiltshire! I spent about 1.5 hours at Stonehenge from arrival to viewing the stones to visiting the museum, gift shop and cafeteria. I found the bus and rode to the next site, Old Sarum.

Old Sarum is the original settlement that became Salisbury. The site is on a Neolithic hill that has had several layers of alteration and settlement for thousands of years. The hill was a Neolithic fort, a roman fort and then a Norman Castle and Cathedral site. There is not much there now, except for foundations. The Norman settlement lasted only a few hundred years before the castle and cathedral were dismantled to build the new settlement and cathedral we know as Salisbury today. It was interesting to walk around and they did have some good interpretive signs. The views to Salisbury and the cathedral were very good. You can visit the first level with the cathedral foundations for free. You pay a small fee to enter the castle precincts. It was an interesting sight to see if you are a history buff like me, but I would not go out of the way to visit unless it is a very nice and warm day to walk around and take in the views. There were a few school groups there, and they were having fun learning about being medieval knights as they has several wooden swords and shields to “play with”. A mother and her 20ish son from Michigan were also there and they had fun playing with the swords and shields too! I was able to catch the next bus just outside the entrance to Old Sarum. The bus takes you back into Salisbury and you can get off downtown and walk to see Salisbury Cathedral.

Salisbury was an interesting city with many mediaeval buildings and the wonderful 15th century Poultry Cross marking the poultry market. I walked on to the north gate of the Cathedral Close. The north gate is a 14th century gateway that is still closed every evening. Crossing through the gate, you leave the dense cityscape and enter into another realm of green grass and the great bulk of theCathedral rising up with the tallest spire in the UK.
Salisbury Cathedral was built in the 1200s taking just a few decades to complete and is a great example of early English Gothic architecture. The consistency of the design makes it somewhat unique in that it took many other cathedrals centuries to build due to financial and political constraints. The spire was added in the 1300s and is over 400’ tall making it the tallest in the UK. The façade of the cathedral is heavily decorated with many statues and decoration. The nave of the Cathedral is impressive with a modern designed baptismal font overflowing on one end of the aisle. The font makes for great photos as the glass like surface reflects the church structure beautifully. There are several side chapels , memorials and monuments throughout. The stained glass windows bring in some wonderful, colored light into the stone interior. There was a young man playing a grand piano in one of the side areas of the crossing. There is also a nice cloister with green grass and trees in the center, lovely and peaceful.

Salisbury Cathedral also has a wonderful chapter house and it houses and exhibition on the cathedral and one of only 4 original copies of the Magna Carta. The Magna Carta was a rather bureaucratic looking document, but we all know that the words within give it power. There was a very nice lady who greeted me at the entrance to the chapter house, and she took be by the hand to show me the place. She was obviously very proud of the Cathedral and the Magna Carta being in her town! She pointed out the frieze in the room that told bible stories from the old and new testaments. She showed me how inaccurate the carvings were….they were wearing clothes of the day (13th century) and obviously portrayed local people in biblical roles! It was great to have a tour guide! One could easily spend many hours in Salisbury Cathedral touring the church, cloisters and exhibits. The next time, I would leave time to take a tour of the spire! There are also several museums in some of the grand homes in The Cathedral Close. Salisbury Cathedral also has commissioned several modern art sculptures that you can see throughout the cathedral itself and the grounds.

I was getting very tired by this time, and I set off back downtown to get a snack. I had a yummy lemon bar and hot chocolate at a café. I then walked back to the train station and was back in my room in Earls Court by 6. I rested for a bit and then walked up to Earls Court Road and ate at Masala Zone having a very tasty Grand Thali dinner to sample many different Indian dishes.

I found that a day trip from London to Salisbury and Stonehenge make for a great day out! Stonehenge in the morning, back to Salisbury for lunch and Salisbury Cathedral in the afternoon is a nice, well- paced day!

Next up: last day in London, Inns of Court and another night of theater with Jeeves and Wooster
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