Retiring to Southern France

Carcassonne is not a semi-rural small village or town by any stretch. Plus, it's overrun with tourists. It certainly wouldn't hold any appeal for me.

But first the logistics. You do realize you can't just pack up and go live in France, I hope. Do you have French citizenship? Hold an EU passport? Have the proper paperwork from the French government? If not, that's where you should start your planning, not picking a village. It also sounds as though you don't even know the area well that you're targeting. I should think you'd want to make at least one, and preferably several, trips to France to scout out areas that appeal to you.

If I were going to settle down in that area, I'd be looking at places like Revel, Graulhet, Castelnau-de-Montmiral, St-Férriol, Castelnaudary, St-Pons-de-Thomières, or Castres.

woah cowboy, I've already done all of that, and I've been to these areas before, so I'm not totally in the woods. I'm only asking for feedback on these areas mentioned, not the french inquisition.
My next step is to travel there in may to check it out.

If you don't have EU citizenship, through ancestry or marriage for example, getting a long-term visa will be your major concern. It's not given out routinely, every application is scrutinised and is referred to civil servants in Paris for a decision. You need to satisfy a number of conditions, such as financial viability, long-term rental contract or purchase of a suitable property, private health cover valid in France, criminal record clearance and health certificate. Get in touch with narest French consulate for details.

2700 euro a month is more than enough for a single person to live in France quite comfortably, by local standards. Compared to US, average French home is quite a bit more modest in terms of size, furnishing and gadgets (no air con, for example). SW France is quite a bit cheaper than Provence or the Riviera, generally the inland areas are cheaper than on the coast. Check on transport links, as rural transport can be scarce or non-existent, some villages have next to no amenities like shops and banks, and if you're looking to use your base for travelling in Europe, a nearby airport with good international links is an advantage. The French Basque area is very attractive, with reasonable property prices. It can get quite hot in summer and cold in winter, with options for summer and winter sports.

Look, you said you wanted a "semi-rural town or village" and "not too touristy" and then you suggested Carcassonne, so any normal person who knows the area would have assumed, as I did, that you didn't know the territory if you thought Carcassonne fit those criteria.

Great if you've got your paperwork in order. That's half the battle.

I gave you at least a half a dozen villages to look into.

2700 Euro is not a tight budget, especially if you're converting dollars to Euro.

May want to look for more expensive areas.

Some countries, including European countries like Italy, have retirement visas for people who can demonstrate financial viability. Not sure if France is one of them but may be worth looking into.

We're very fond of our bit of the Hautes Pyrenees. Places I would think of were I you and heading this way from Toulouse, would be St Lys, Samatan, Simorre, L'Isle Jourdain, Lombez, L'Isle en Dodon, Aurignac, then Lannemezan, Castelnau Magnoac, and Trie sur Baise.

But there are DOZENS and dozens of towns which fit your criteria. Narrow down what you're looking for and let me know, please.

We have rented a home twice in St. Thibery, nearest larger city is Montpellier. Very "small town" life-style which we personally like.

If that is too small for you, Pezenas is more mid-sized, lovely stores, lots of history, much more "happening" place with better transportation. Other option with even better transportation to area/national transportation is Beziers.

I really like this area, but haven't spent time there during the winter; I think the wind can be pretty brutal and in July August it can be searing at times (though we didn' mind). You don't mention buying property, but myself. I'd want to experience a winter before I committed to anything long-term.

Good luck! It sounds like a nice idea if you can swing it.

As this is a travel forum not a moving one maybe you would get some other answers on a relevant forum . Here are 2:
http://www.totalfrance.com/index.html
http://britishexpats.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=76
Although they are aimed at Brits at least you will have a common language to discus your ideas.
and here are few on-line resources for you to read:
http://france.angloinfo.com/
http://www.expatica.com/fr/main.html

Do not forget that when you post a question give as much details as possible including your nationality then we will not have to surmise anything and be of more help.

Hello Blackiev,

My husband and I just retired from Missouri to SW France in July. We live about 50 minutes' drive SW of Toulouse in a very small village. However, full services are 4km away and the town of St. Gaudens is about 15km.

We love it here--did about 18 months of research from Missouri and several long house-hunting trips, had one abortive house purchase, but have now purchased a small house with fantastic views of the Pyrenees.

To Shelia's list I would suggest also considering Boulogne sur Gesse, Mane, Salies du Salat--really there are so many possibilities.

My entry into France was eased because my husband has a UK passport. I did not need to apply for a long term visa before entry into France, but once here had to apply within three months for a titre de sejour. For the titre, I/we had to show evidence of self-support (your income should be ample) and health insurance cover. These documents had to be translated into French by a certified translator approved by the courts (not hard to obtain but pricey).

I assume background checks are also being done. I have a temporary carte but will be called for an interview and medical within a few months.

We have private health cover as we can't enter the French health care system until my husband reaches age 65. We will then be covered based on a reciprocal agreement with the UK. As I'm sure you have discovered, Medicare offers no coverage in France.

I have found the web sites which ribeirasacra noted to be helpful with great practical advice, although very UK-centric as mentioned.

Would be happy to help more if you want to send me your PM.

>>>>>>>
woah cowboy, I've already done all of that, and I've been to these areas before, so I'm not totally in the woods. I'm only asking for feedback on these areas mentioned, not the french inquisition.
>>>>>>>>

don't worry blackiev...st cirq always gets very nervous and uptight when people say they want to move to france. don't take it personally.

"oh my gawd you can't just move to france!!! i'm the only one who can move to france. you probably don't even have an EU passport like i do." you can feel the seething in her tone. don't you dare even dream about moving to france! how dare you.

An unnecessarily offensive comment, IMHO

I'm aiming to answer the original question.

You want a small town or village, reasonably cheap, within reach of a city.

*A small town or village will automatically be semi rural here

*In fact, you probably need a town to get the day to day facilities you need (doctor, pharmacy, supermarket, gas station, dentist etc etc)

*Some villages are pretty well abandoned in winter

*I would avoid the coast (expensive - busy in summer, isolated in winter)

*Carcassonne is a bustling Disneylike replica of a medieval city (probably too many tourists and too expensive)

*I would avoid going too far into the hills (too much rain & snow in winter and can be isolated)

*Better weather is closer to the Med than Toulouse which can be surprisingly cold

*That leaves Montpellier & Nimes as reasonable size cities

*The coastal plain as far North as the Cevennes mountains would suit you fine

*Do some research on Beaucaire, Arles, St Gilles, Uzes (maybe a little expensive), Lunel, Jacou (expensive but end of Montpellier tram line) Aubais, Caveirac, Calvisson, Sommieres, St Christol les Ales, Anduze, Quissac, St Hippolyte, Sauve, Gignac, Lodeve, Clermont l'Herault, Pezenas and villages near these towns

*Avoid Grande Combe etc just North of Alès (cheap but area suffers from abandoned coal/iron/steel industry)

*Some valleys flood after autumn rains in the mountains. You need local knowledge. Some estate agents have poor memories !

I've tried to avoid the villages very close to cities because they are expensive due to commuters

You don't say if you will have a car. Some of these villages are served by bus or train, but often the bus service is aimed at school hours and holidays.

I'd suggest renting somewhere for a few months whilst you are researching the area.

Some links :

Photos : http://the-languedoc-page.com/photos/index.htm

Map : http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=saussines&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=36.999937,56.513672&ie=UTF8&hq=saussines&hnear=&radius=15000&ll=43.675818,4.213257&spn=1.056811,1.766052&z=9

Furnished studios :
http://www.the-france-page.com/langlade-studio
http://www.the-france-page.com/aujargues-studio

Both have owners who speak English and can help you with info.

More rentals : http://the-languedoc-page.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=6

Local free classifieds web site : www.leboncoin.fr


Bonne chance


Peter

The first thought in my mind was your transportation as well. Thinking of retirement, even if I had driven a car all my life, I would already be thinking about when I won't drive anymore. So I would look for a town not only with all the basic shops available but also on a convenient train line. Those wonderful villages at the end of long winding roads can become a trap for the elderly.

You have already got excellent advice. Let me add a few thoughts.

I have lived for a short period in the tiny village Méthamis, south of the Mont Ventoux. It is one of the many villages which are mostly deserted by their original inhabitants and where a few foreigners have bought houses. And, yes, it is one of those villages at the end of a winding road. Here some observations:

Firstly, the French are extremely reserved people. Especially for Americans who are used to move constantly and to be welcomed to their new neighbourhoods, it can be a shocking experience that it will take quite a time to get in contact with the French. Especially the population of such villages are, err, not exactly cosmopolitan people.

Secondly, the other foreigners in those villages mostly use their homes only seasonal, some of them just for a few weeks per year. This means, you won't much socialize with them either. Also, it means, some of them rent their homes to tourists which can become very annoying (imagine eight young men renting a large house for a springbreak-like week).

Thirdly, spend a winter there before you buy a house. Even in southern France, winters get cold and you often have icy, gusty winds (the Mistral is one of them - Moulin Daudet names 36 winds). And most houses are poorly insulated and heated. A house which appears nice and cozy in summer can get nasty in the winter. Also check the electrical system of the house. I have never stayed a week in a French house without at least one electrical breakdown. (This usually happens in the middle of the night during a heavy rainstorm. Then you wander around the premises with your flashlight in your hand finding the gadget where the breakdown happened.)

Fourthly, as others have said, check services and facilities nearby.

Fifthly, retiring and living in a region is completely different from vacationing there. Stay in a rental home for at least two months and observe yourself how you spend the days, what are your needs and what are the pros and cons.

These are some questions which are crucial:

Do you need to socialize once in a while?
Do you want to go to a theatre performance or to a concert once in a while?
Do you need a variety of food over time or will you be content with the same three restaurants which are available within 30 minutes driving time?
Do you need public transportation?
Do you need access to an airport? What connections should the airport have?
Do you need access to the TGV? How often will you welcome visitors at the train station or at the airport and what is the acceptable driving time for you and your guests?
May you come in a situation that you need medical specialists (besides the village doctor)?
Do you like hiking? Do you need access to hiking trails from your house?
Do you need water - river, sea, lake?
Do you need horse-riding?
Do you need tennis or golf? If yes, where is the next club, would the people in the club welcome you?
How do you spend your time? Will you get bored?
Do you speak French fluently?

Taking all this into consideration, I personally would prefer to stay not too far from a major city with some cultural life, good medical services and access to transportation. These cities would be Nimes, Avignon, Montpellier, Perpignan (maybe Toulouse, but I do not know Toulouse).

<<An unnecessarily offensive comment, IMHO>>

Indeed. Wonder what the problem is there? St Cirq has provided a lot of useful informaton.

Echnaton asks some excellent questions.

I particularly agree with the idea of knowing what winter is like in any place that interests you. Whenever anybody I know falls in love with a place on a perfect summer day, I always ask them "What is it like in February?"

Meanwhile, if I had to make a decision in the next 10 minutes or have a hand amputated, while I would probably have chosen Montpellier in the past, I think that I would now choose Toulouse.

If you want a nice town, not overridden with tourists, but easy to get to other cities like Montpelier, Nimes, Arles, etc, look into LUNEL. I spent a considerable amount of time there some years ago, and I found it VERY economical, friendly, and pleasant. Good restaurants.

I read this with envy, but I don't drive so living in rural France is out of the options for me
bon chance, Blackie

cigalechanta, what a perfect excuse to learn to drive! "I simply must drive so I can one day retire to rural France."

Unless there is a physical reason why you do not drive. Then, not so much. In that case you will have to stick with retirement in urban France.

op you gave very little useful info with your original post. the more info given the better the people who will reply. whoa cowboy is not a particular good response to anyone-maybe you want to reevaluate that. the reply from walkingaound was idiot territory with no useful info- agenda??? you recieved much useful info mayabe a nice reply is in order

Thank you StCirq for your regional suggestions. I will research these areas and make appropriate plans for when I travel to France in May. I appreciate the response.
Blackie

Alec, Thanks very much for your advice. I have been in touch with the loacl french consulate and a local french sub-ambassador. Both have been helpful,however, its a little early to start legal paperwork proceedings since I'm not retiring for another 12 to 18 months. I do prefer to be within close proximity to a rail line especially the TGV if possible. I am seriously considering taking my BMW with me although, I'm a little concerned about price in shipping from the east coast to France. Thanks again.
Blackie

scrb - Thanks for your advice. I haven't heard of a retirement visa, so I may look into that.
Blackie

sheila - Wow, lots of great choices. Merci, Merci, Merci! Sounds like some very viable choices. I'm looking at doing some traveling while there, and probably will rent for the first year or two before buying. I'm in no rush; I want to make rational decisions and I appreciate all of the great feedback I'm getting. I'm going to research the areas you mentioned and I will let you know.

Klondike - Thanks for the great advice. I will look into St. Thibery, and also Pezenas. They both sound like what I'm looking for. I will more than likely rent for the first year or two before buying. Still pondering if I should ship my BMW over to France from the east coast.
Thanks again,
Blackie

ribeirasacra - Thanks for the links you provided for more information. I most definitely will use them and do all of my research before making my decision. I'm probably still 12 to 18 months away from actually retiring but want to start early.
Thanks again,
Blackie

Cathinjoetown - Fantastic, very informative response and I really apppreciate to hear from other american retirees. South of Toulouse is the specific areas that I was looking into!! Sounds like you did your homework before moving. I am going to rent for the first year then buy later. I would love to talk or communicate with you possibly by e-mail to learn more about your experience. I am travelling to southern France in May of 2010 to learn more about the area.
Thanks for the useful information,
Blackie

walkinaround - Thanks, LOL, kinda figured as such. A point well taken, but I do appreciate any feedback.

I will just throw in the thought of Gramat in the Lot while we're at it. It is quite a small town but is on a line that still has 2 or 3 trains a day to Paris-Austerlitz.

It is part of the Rocamadour website: http://www.rocamadour.com/

Blackiev,

Here's my email address--drop a line when you can--am very excited for you and we would certainly want to have you round for a drink or coffee if you get to our area:

ch.taylor@orange.fr

The local expats (mostly Brits but a few US) have been very helpful to us as have our French neighbors. We like to return the favor.

Am in Missouri at the moment due to family issues but am answering mail. Will be back in France on the 17th of Dec (hooray).

Cath

saving for me

and me too !!

mpprh - Thank you very much for your helpful information and the attached links. They should be very useful for me to check out. I am thinking very much about taking my new BMW with me to France when I move there. So much country to see, so little time to do it in!
Thanks again,
Blackie

We didn't seriously consider shipping our car but many people do. Check with a large nationwide mover--they should have all the specifics.

We shipped a 20'container (packed to the gills with furniture and clothing) for around $15,000 door to door from Missouri, including insurance. East coast will of course be cheaper and you will probably have more options. The shipper helped with all the paperwork which wasn't too onerous.

Essentially, your belongings have to been purchased six months' prior to shipping and usual restrictions apply that do for domestic moves (no alcohol, paint, corrosives, etc.)

Blackie, thanks for starting this thread. I think I would like to do this too, but at the moment it's just a fantasy. I
know I'm not the only dreamer reading about your plans. Please keep us posted on what you learn and what you decide to do.

If you keep this thread going, it may be potentially useful to all of us sitting at home fantasizing about living in France.

Even if I can't make the move myself, I'll be cheering you on.

My parents also shipped their belongings from California to France when they lived here from 1972 to 1981. My mother being French, at least she understood that things like American furniture was inappropriate for shipping, but they took their dishes, pots and pans, clothing and lots of small items, which of course made the new place feel like home.

When they left France in 1981 (because the dollar had sunk to historic lows in 1980 and they were on an American retirement), they took many of the same things back to the U.S. plus a number of items from France...

It's really not all that difficult to get things packed up and shipped, so it is a "non-problem" compared to the administrative details, health plans and things like that.

Coquelicot - Thanks for the response and communication. I hope my move inspires others to take that leap. You only get one chance at life, and since I have French ancestry and was raised tradionally french in New Orleans, and Roman Catholic, I feel like it's my calling in life, to retire to southern France and travel as much as I can. I've already started the process and have travelled to France in 1971 and 72 while in the military, then back in 1999 on vacation. I just feel so much at home when I'm speaking their language and can relate to their lifestyle!
I have had such awesome information and suggestions on this forum, that I can't thank everyone enough!! I am more compelled every day to live out my dream there since retiring in the USA is a hopeless pipe dream with the state of affairs here. Keep in touch. (check out my profile pic with my 3 yr old grand-daughter!)

Kerouac raised a good point about "American" furniture. The big sectionals and very large bureaus, etc. don't fit well or look well(IMO)in most French houses or flats. We didn't own any huge pieces but sold several average-sized couches, all appliances and just lots of excess of all sorts. Also sold bookcases as IKEA and the like have a wide selection at good prices.

We thought through what we took--actually have some country French antiques which are back in their mother country. Lamps work fine--just need plug adapters and 220 bulbs--I'm glad we packed about 8 table lamps as we live in an small, old French farmhouse without very much natural light.

We're also glad we took two American queen size mattress and box springs which were both quite new. The mattresses bent around the corners on the stairwell and the box springs just cleared the stair landing.

We pared down books and clothes but shipped "old friends" and four-season wear as we do get cold weather in winter. I'm glad I shipped all my kitchen things although French kitchen equipment is very good quality and tableware, linens, etc are beautiful. We also brought all our outdoor furniture, flower pots, gardening tools, etc.

I can't think of anything I really miss--am in the States now and so far have purchased some OTC drugs which are much cheaper here, some tops (I haven't been a standard French size since age 8) and some chili seasoning--the last obtainable in France but am hooked on a particular brand.

Were I in your place I would contemplate settling down near the lower Rhône Valley town of Montélimar, right on the TGV line. The town has everything you could need or want, and there are interesting little nearby villages from which to choose. This area of the Drôme Provençale has yet to be discovered by the tourist mobs and is one of our very favorite places for that reason.

On the other hand, it would behoove you to find out exactly where the Southwest TGV line to Toulouse is going to be built. Now is the time to buy property near one of the future stations. Real estate has skyrocketed everywhere the TGV has been built.

The advice to spend a winter there, before fully relocating, is a really good idea.

My parents always dreamed of early retirement in Florida, and that's what they did. They bought a house and added a pool. Then, they decided they wanted to be on the beach, so moved again. At first, they loved the Florida. And, they had plenty of friends and family visit frequently, but that severely dwindled, so after a few years, they were making many trips "home" for holidays and to see the kids and granchildren and all their long time friends. They didn't miss winters, but grew tired of sunny/hot weather all year around. One day, they packed up and moved back home. They were thrilled to be back and so were all of us kids, especially as each grew older and developed health problems. Both have passed away, but we were all so relieved they did not spend their last days far from family and friends.

ttt

Underhill is one hundred percent right on Montelimar! One day, my wife and I wanted to go to Orleans. We were given bum directions by a conductor, he saying that a certain train stopped at Orleans. We whizzed by Orleans, and I was fit to be tied! The next stop was Montelimar. We got off the train and enjoyed the absolute best day of our trip there. The place is fantastic, especially if you love nougats. It's known as the nougat capital of the world. I don't know of ANY place that has better restaurants than this lovely town.

Thanks Waldo and Underhill - The village of Montelimar seems to be very fascinating and just the right type of place to fall in love with.
My concerns are with the altitude and the alpine mountain range nearby. Is this village inhabitable all year long, or is it primarily a "vacation" type area? It would appear to be in a colder climate range than say, Montpelier or south of Toulouse. Are the main highways and train ways open all year long?

Hi all, this is such a great set of comments for me. I am considering a move from the US to southern France in about two years, when I will be 59 years old. The Languedoc region is of great interest to me, and I plan to travel there in April 2011.

Here are some things I will be looking for: a larger village or smaller city with some expats; I am not rich but do not need to be too conservative with money; I studied French for many years when I was younger and assume I can renew my language skills quickly, even before I go; I am now planning to rent for 3-5 years, or even longer; I am a single woman; I would like good food markets (I can't imagine this would be difficult), transportation, and an interesting culture to enjoy. Weather is not so much an issue for me, but safety is. Since I am a working writer, I would like decent Internet access but don't need anything special.

Any thoughts? I welcome all input! Thank you!

Marking.

I wonder if blackiev was able to fulfill his/her dreams of retiring in Southern France..

I wondered the same kismetchimera. Based on an August '10 post by blackiev the answer is not yet but it still appears to be in the works in a couple of years.
Ann Marie

dianeinsonoma: You will likely do better to start your own, new thread instead of tacking on to one from two years ago.

Have you researched the visa issues? One can't just up and move to France w/o some special connection to the country.

JanisJ - thank you. I may start this thread elsewhere.

Brand new to forum & thanks to all for great advice. On the other hand, as with much on the web, there's more data than knowledge. I'm more than a little overwhelmed.

My bride & I have been going to France for 25 years & have known a family there for just as long. It's now time to make the big move & we're looking at the SW mostly for the climate--although many of you have warned about cold winters. And since the Washington DC area is fighting Alaska for coldest place in the US, that's a definite concern.

I'm in the middle of planning a 3-4 trip in May & the list of towns recommended will be a big help. We're also looking at SW Atlantic coast & perhaps Dordogne...hey four or five trips to explore various regions...what could be bad? Given housing situation here, it'll be at least a 1 1/2 yrs before we make the big move.

Anyway, just wanted to introduce myself & say thanks for all the great advice and links. Also, we'd love to meet with anyone for coffee & French pastries while we're there. I can be reached at mschannon@cox.net.

We're at our place in SW France- in the Hautes Pyrenees- 7th-14th May. Email me for details about the area if you're not just thinking of seeing the coast.

...how about southeast france.. have you heard of the area near Annecy? on your budget you'd be pretty comfortable there and there is a lot to do and see..starting with the purest lake in europe (water reaches 23/24C in the summer..)
http://www.hautesavoiephotos.com/photoslac.htm
it's only 1 hour from Geneva so it's great platform to travel around europe, with discount airlines covering that area..it's cheaper than french motorway or trains..!
cheers

Shelia, Where are you in the H.P.?

We are between St. Gaudens and Salies du Salat in the Haute Garonne.

We spent a couple of weeks in the Languedoc and Dordogne regions last year, and also started thinking about retiring there. (Most people we met who lived in the area were Brits, and called it "Dordogne-shire" because there was so many of them!) My French is good, the area is marvelous, and I've lived on several continents over the years (no worries about being an ex-pat) ... but, then the first grandchild arrived. Here we stay!