Restaurant report (LONG)
Jul 4th, 2005, 12:31 PM
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Restaurant report (LONG)
We had a fabulous week in Paris, highlighted by many wonderful meals. Here are the details..but warning -- I'm a foodie and I get a bit carried away with details when I'm writing about meals!!!
L'ILOT VACHE -- Our first dinner in Paris, on Ile St. Louis, across the street from our B&B. Our hosts recommended it as being quiet, and special. We enjoyed it very much. My starter was a terrine of avocado in a tomato-basil coulis. The terrine had chunks of avocado in it and the coulis was really fresh and bursting with summer flavor. Main course was salmon in 2 sauces -- a lobster sauce (they called it "sauce Americaine" and a beurre blanc. Little slices of grilled zucchini along with boiled potatoes surrounded the dish. It was lovely, delicate and fresh. (I failed to write down Glenn's starter and main...sorry.) Cheese came next...3 small pieces, one of which instantly became my new favorite -- rebluchon. Glenn had creme brulee for dessert which was just OK...not very creamy or silky, but the flavor was nice and lots of brulee on top. I tried Ile Flottante because I knew I had to, and as suspected, I loved everything except the meringue. (I need my meringues to be crunchy.) But the creme anglaise, toasted almonds and caramel were wonderful. Lovely little place, and nice price...33e for starter, main, cheese and dessert.
ALTITUDE 95 -- I know, I know...some people say touristy and why bother. But my in-laws insisted we go there. And really, to see the sunset over the Trocadero from the best window table in the place (I called 3 months ahead), sipping a Kir Royale, it really was a lovely evening. The food was ranged from OK to divine...seafood platter was actually quite abundant and fresh, and we both enjoyed it. My starter of green bean salad with warm saucisson in a vinaigrette was actually quite nice, and dessert made me swoon -- a milk chocolate pot de creme that was as silky as they come. I was surprised at the quality here. Glenn's coffee ice cream was also intensely flavored, with bits of crunchy coffee candy mixed in. Main courses were forgettable. I say go for a cocktail and dessert, if you can get away with it!
FLORA DANICA -- Quick lunch on the Champs Elysee after telling my nonfoodie husband that I CANNOT waste a meal in Paris by eating at McDonald's. Had a lovely marinated salmon salad, mixed with apples and dill. Glenn had reindeer quiche which was quite good, and a unique choice. Way better than a Big Mac.
LA TOUR d'ARGENT -- I know there are all manner of opinions about this place. But my mother ate there in 1948 and 1959 and she gave us the money to go there for our anniversary, so we went. We were treated like royalty, had one of the best tables in the house (a friend of Mom's called and put in a good word, I take it), watched the sun set behind Notre Dame while sipping another Kir Royale (do you sense a theme here?), and were given a gift from Claude Terrail himself -- and autographed copy of his book. A magical night. The food? It was mostly wonderful. My pike quenelles made me swoon. Light as a feather and I loved the sauce they were in. Our duck a l'orange (#1,031,299 for those who care) was presented to us for "approval" on a platter (does anyone ever say, "No, that doesn't look good, please cook another one for me?)...and then served in 2 courses. The first -- the breast in the orange sauce was fantastic. The sauce was not overly sweet as many are. The meat was cooked to perfection for our "bien cuit" request. (Sorry...we just can't do rare poultry.) and it was still tender, moist and perfect. The 2nd course of the grilled legs with bernaise was less successful. Nice flavor, but the meat was tougher and not as pleasant to eat. Cheese was lovely....had my first Epouisse (how do you spell it?) that is served in a spoon. Loved it. Desserts were theatrical -- Glenn had their speciality of a flambeed pear with raspberry brandy (boozier than he'd normally like, but it was still good), and my profiteroles were totally doused in a very rich chocolate sauce that I found hard to finish as I was already stuffed. Little treats with coffee were amazingly cute and tasty -- I'd never seen such little loaves and tartes before. We were able to visit the wine cellar (even though we passed on wine at dinner), and that was an experience in itself. For the sense of history, and for me, the family sentiment, it was 3 hours worth spending. It's an evening we will never forget. Thanks, Mom!!!!
CAFE NEO -- We got back from London late at night and after sleeping 3 hours on the Eurostar, were ready to hang out in some cafes. We were looking for the Cafe de Flore and the Deux Magots, but turned the wrong way down the street. Got too hungry to keep looking so stopped at a place that looked busy with locals. Sat right on the sidewalk and had a great dinner in the St. Germain de Pres area. I had the Salade Bergere -- greens with prosciutto (lots of it) and large croutons of toasted Poilane bread with warm goat cheese on top...walnuts also, all in a lovely vinaigrette. Perfect cafe food on a warm night. Glenn had the Croque Provence, full of cheese, tomatoes and herbs. We walked around the area and finally found the CAFE DEUX MAGOTS which was another place my mother had eaten 50 years ago....so we stopped and had coffee and split a large ice cream sundae of vanilla ice cream with ripe red berries and berry sauce with whipped cream. Fabulous. I felt giddy just being out so late and soaking up the Paris nightlife with good food after such a great day in London.
ANGELINA'S-- I guess lots of people say "been there, done that" about this place, but since it was our first time in Paris, we had to try it. Aside from the lack of air conditioning, we just adored this place. And the chocolat chaud was as to-die-for as all the hype had reported. Loved the side of whipped cream to add at will. Even Glenn was swooning over his cup. To add to the sugar rush, I had their famous Mont Blanc. I'd never tasted chestnut cream before and that was great. Loved the combo of the crunchy meringue, sweet chantilly cream and the delicately spiced chestnut cream. Glenn had raspberry and pear sorbets which were delightfully fresh and fruity.
LE P'TIT TROQUET -- One of THE meals of the trip. This place had come highly recommended by people who spend lots of time in Paris. They did not steer us wrong. Tiny place in the 7th, totally nonsmoking, run by a family, serving exquisite food at low prices -- 29.50 for starter, main and dessert. My starter was a slice of foie gras with toast...and it was absoolute perfection. The toast was slightly buttery and almost cake-like (must have been an egg bread or something)...and the foie gras was cold and buttery and the two together were perfect. Glenn started with a lighter plate of prosciutto and melon that he said was perfect as well. My main was one of the highlights of the trip -- Pork with Lemon Confit. I took one bite and said to Glenn, "This makes me want to sing!" This is the one dish I think of the most and wish I could teleport back to Paris to have again right now. Cubes of pork, browned and caramelized and braised to perfection, in a sauce that somehow managed to engage every tastebud in my mouth -- salty, sweet, bitter, sour, earthy, meaty. A masterpiece. Bits of lemon peel for texture. I am not a huge braised meat lover, but this was just incredible. Fork tender. And I did the unthinkable, and mopped up the sauce with some bread. I don't think anyone noticed or cared. But I wasn't going to waste a drop! Glenn's main was wonderful, too (though it didn't match the pork, IMO) -- Lamb with couscous. They decorated it with a smoldering thyme sprig, so the scent of thyme filled the air. Lovely touch. Lamb was perfect and the couscous flavorful and husband was happy. His creme brulee for dessert was also perfect...silky and divine. My dessert was less stellar, but still good -- a pear crumble that could have used a bit more flavor. But it's quite possible that after that amazing pork dish, anything would have seemed bland. The hostess (Mom) and server (daughter) were sweet and charming and we had such a delightful time there. I would go there again instantly. Don't miss this place!!!
L'ATELIER de JOEL ROBUCHON -- This was such an amazing experience, and for lunch at that! Ten courses, 3 hours, and even my nonfoodie husband went WOW a few times. Will share the details in a separate post. It's worth it!
LA TRUFFIERE -- On the same day as Robuchon. Can't believe we had 2 such amazing meals in one day. This place is really special. We had a fun stroll through the Latin Quarter to find the place. We ate downstairs in their "cave" which was mostly lit by candles. Tres romantique with only about 8 tables. The staff, who could have been stuffy, given the prices and caliber of food, was relaxed and warm and friendly, even humorous. We felt instantly at ease and dove in to some of the best cooking of the week. Sommelier suggested a red wine cocktail to start, and that was a fun change from my Kir Royale fixation. Amuse-bouche came in little soup tureens -- a cream of zucchini soup drizzled with white truffle oil. Wow. Taste buds engaged and ready for action. We split a starter of foie gras with mashed potato cake and it was wonderful. Warm and comforting. Would like to have one to myself next time. To our surprise, they then brought us each a small foie gras creme brulee which was a revelation. What a concept. And it totally worked. Fabulous flavors and textures. My main was my 2nd favorite main of the week -- duck leg stew with mashed potatoes and truffles. It came as a timbale, with the stewed meat on the bottom, mashed potatoes on top, thinly sliced black truffles lining the sides...sauteed foie gras on the very top, and a fabulous truffle sauce drizzled over and around. Another "I want to sing" moment. Especially since the sommelier brought me a glass of red wine that was totally perfect with the dish. Wish I'd written down what it was. I decided to eat and sip very very slowly. Glenn had another WOW moment with his red tuna stuffed with foie gras and rolled in filo dough and lightly fried. The tuna was still mostly raw, as it should be, and he said the combination of tuna and foie gras was amazing. We did not share bites this time. If we weren't happy enough, then they brought out the cheese trolley, a beautiful piece of furniture with at least 20 cheeses on it, and our server took lots of time to carefully explain each one. We each chose 3, he chose another 2 to round out the course, and then placed them on the plate in order from mildest to strongest and gave us special condiments to go with a few of them. I loved this...a bit theatrical and yet educational and ultimately divine eating! I had chevre with the most delicate orange honey (and I don't usually like honey as a condiment!), and there was a cheese called Cadot (sp?) I think that was made with Calvados, so they served it with an apple chutney. We had so much fun with the cheese course. Then they brought us pre-desserts of a creamy rice pudding with apricot-mango sauce. Lovely. My dessert was the house specialty -- a warm truffle souffle -- not chocolate, mind you, but black truffle, with mango coulis, and sherbet flavored with truffle honey. It was the most unique dish of the week. So glad I tried it. There was no skimping on the truffles, either...all mixed into the souffle and scattered all about the plate, too. Amazing flavor combo to have the sweet and earthy. Every bite, I'd say, "This is so bizarre, but I love it...I think!" It messed with my brain, and I just loved that it was special to the place and I'll be talking about it for years. Glenn had sorbets again, which he really liked. Then more little treats with our coffees. And it was another 3-hour meal we will remember forever. (Are people really allowed to have two 3-hour meals in one day?) The staff made such an impression on us. This is a place for a splurge...our bill came to 211e for the 2 of us but it was worth every centime.
NOS ANCETRES LES GAULOIS -- Swinging to the low-end of the spectrum...Glenn was intrigued by this place, and since I'd refused him McDonald's, I thought the least I could do was go along with his choice for dinner for our last night. It was a rolicking fun time, with some decent food. Fabulous bread...big basket of fresh veggies to start. Then a serve-yourself buffet of many kinds of sausages/salami-type meats, salads, corn. I couol dhave made a meal of that and been just fine. And a barrel of wine to fill your pitcher with (as much as you like included in the price). Quite drinkable, actually. Mains were a choice of grilled meats. I had steak, Glenn had lamb. Not the worst grilled meat I've had, but not wonderful. We skipped the cheese course, though it looked great (we needed to catch an evening boat ride for our last night in town), and went straight for dessert which was a very dark and rich chocolate mousse that made up for the so-so steak. The sides with the mains were terrible (overcooked beans, soupy rice...). I don't think people really come here for the food, though. It's just a fun "Viking" kind of atmospehere. There was a troubador walking around the place with guitar and singing old French folk/bar songs that the locals knew and sang along with. The rest of us clapped and enjoyed the merrymaking. I'm glad I went once, but wouldn't go again. I've heard the place next door (La Taverne de Sargent, I think) is similar, but with better food, so maybe we'll try that "next time."
So those are the restaurant highlights. We also had a couple of picnics that were wonderful. With perfect weather, I'm so glad we were able to be outside soaking up the sun and the air and the LIFE of Paris.
L'ILOT VACHE -- Our first dinner in Paris, on Ile St. Louis, across the street from our B&B. Our hosts recommended it as being quiet, and special. We enjoyed it very much. My starter was a terrine of avocado in a tomato-basil coulis. The terrine had chunks of avocado in it and the coulis was really fresh and bursting with summer flavor. Main course was salmon in 2 sauces -- a lobster sauce (they called it "sauce Americaine" and a beurre blanc. Little slices of grilled zucchini along with boiled potatoes surrounded the dish. It was lovely, delicate and fresh. (I failed to write down Glenn's starter and main...sorry.) Cheese came next...3 small pieces, one of which instantly became my new favorite -- rebluchon. Glenn had creme brulee for dessert which was just OK...not very creamy or silky, but the flavor was nice and lots of brulee on top. I tried Ile Flottante because I knew I had to, and as suspected, I loved everything except the meringue. (I need my meringues to be crunchy.) But the creme anglaise, toasted almonds and caramel were wonderful. Lovely little place, and nice price...33e for starter, main, cheese and dessert.
ALTITUDE 95 -- I know, I know...some people say touristy and why bother. But my in-laws insisted we go there. And really, to see the sunset over the Trocadero from the best window table in the place (I called 3 months ahead), sipping a Kir Royale, it really was a lovely evening. The food was ranged from OK to divine...seafood platter was actually quite abundant and fresh, and we both enjoyed it. My starter of green bean salad with warm saucisson in a vinaigrette was actually quite nice, and dessert made me swoon -- a milk chocolate pot de creme that was as silky as they come. I was surprised at the quality here. Glenn's coffee ice cream was also intensely flavored, with bits of crunchy coffee candy mixed in. Main courses were forgettable. I say go for a cocktail and dessert, if you can get away with it!
FLORA DANICA -- Quick lunch on the Champs Elysee after telling my nonfoodie husband that I CANNOT waste a meal in Paris by eating at McDonald's. Had a lovely marinated salmon salad, mixed with apples and dill. Glenn had reindeer quiche which was quite good, and a unique choice. Way better than a Big Mac.
LA TOUR d'ARGENT -- I know there are all manner of opinions about this place. But my mother ate there in 1948 and 1959 and she gave us the money to go there for our anniversary, so we went. We were treated like royalty, had one of the best tables in the house (a friend of Mom's called and put in a good word, I take it), watched the sun set behind Notre Dame while sipping another Kir Royale (do you sense a theme here?), and were given a gift from Claude Terrail himself -- and autographed copy of his book. A magical night. The food? It was mostly wonderful. My pike quenelles made me swoon. Light as a feather and I loved the sauce they were in. Our duck a l'orange (#1,031,299 for those who care) was presented to us for "approval" on a platter (does anyone ever say, "No, that doesn't look good, please cook another one for me?)...and then served in 2 courses. The first -- the breast in the orange sauce was fantastic. The sauce was not overly sweet as many are. The meat was cooked to perfection for our "bien cuit" request. (Sorry...we just can't do rare poultry.) and it was still tender, moist and perfect. The 2nd course of the grilled legs with bernaise was less successful. Nice flavor, but the meat was tougher and not as pleasant to eat. Cheese was lovely....had my first Epouisse (how do you spell it?) that is served in a spoon. Loved it. Desserts were theatrical -- Glenn had their speciality of a flambeed pear with raspberry brandy (boozier than he'd normally like, but it was still good), and my profiteroles were totally doused in a very rich chocolate sauce that I found hard to finish as I was already stuffed. Little treats with coffee were amazingly cute and tasty -- I'd never seen such little loaves and tartes before. We were able to visit the wine cellar (even though we passed on wine at dinner), and that was an experience in itself. For the sense of history, and for me, the family sentiment, it was 3 hours worth spending. It's an evening we will never forget. Thanks, Mom!!!!
CAFE NEO -- We got back from London late at night and after sleeping 3 hours on the Eurostar, were ready to hang out in some cafes. We were looking for the Cafe de Flore and the Deux Magots, but turned the wrong way down the street. Got too hungry to keep looking so stopped at a place that looked busy with locals. Sat right on the sidewalk and had a great dinner in the St. Germain de Pres area. I had the Salade Bergere -- greens with prosciutto (lots of it) and large croutons of toasted Poilane bread with warm goat cheese on top...walnuts also, all in a lovely vinaigrette. Perfect cafe food on a warm night. Glenn had the Croque Provence, full of cheese, tomatoes and herbs. We walked around the area and finally found the CAFE DEUX MAGOTS which was another place my mother had eaten 50 years ago....so we stopped and had coffee and split a large ice cream sundae of vanilla ice cream with ripe red berries and berry sauce with whipped cream. Fabulous. I felt giddy just being out so late and soaking up the Paris nightlife with good food after such a great day in London.
ANGELINA'S-- I guess lots of people say "been there, done that" about this place, but since it was our first time in Paris, we had to try it. Aside from the lack of air conditioning, we just adored this place. And the chocolat chaud was as to-die-for as all the hype had reported. Loved the side of whipped cream to add at will. Even Glenn was swooning over his cup. To add to the sugar rush, I had their famous Mont Blanc. I'd never tasted chestnut cream before and that was great. Loved the combo of the crunchy meringue, sweet chantilly cream and the delicately spiced chestnut cream. Glenn had raspberry and pear sorbets which were delightfully fresh and fruity.
LE P'TIT TROQUET -- One of THE meals of the trip. This place had come highly recommended by people who spend lots of time in Paris. They did not steer us wrong. Tiny place in the 7th, totally nonsmoking, run by a family, serving exquisite food at low prices -- 29.50 for starter, main and dessert. My starter was a slice of foie gras with toast...and it was absoolute perfection. The toast was slightly buttery and almost cake-like (must have been an egg bread or something)...and the foie gras was cold and buttery and the two together were perfect. Glenn started with a lighter plate of prosciutto and melon that he said was perfect as well. My main was one of the highlights of the trip -- Pork with Lemon Confit. I took one bite and said to Glenn, "This makes me want to sing!" This is the one dish I think of the most and wish I could teleport back to Paris to have again right now. Cubes of pork, browned and caramelized and braised to perfection, in a sauce that somehow managed to engage every tastebud in my mouth -- salty, sweet, bitter, sour, earthy, meaty. A masterpiece. Bits of lemon peel for texture. I am not a huge braised meat lover, but this was just incredible. Fork tender. And I did the unthinkable, and mopped up the sauce with some bread. I don't think anyone noticed or cared. But I wasn't going to waste a drop! Glenn's main was wonderful, too (though it didn't match the pork, IMO) -- Lamb with couscous. They decorated it with a smoldering thyme sprig, so the scent of thyme filled the air. Lovely touch. Lamb was perfect and the couscous flavorful and husband was happy. His creme brulee for dessert was also perfect...silky and divine. My dessert was less stellar, but still good -- a pear crumble that could have used a bit more flavor. But it's quite possible that after that amazing pork dish, anything would have seemed bland. The hostess (Mom) and server (daughter) were sweet and charming and we had such a delightful time there. I would go there again instantly. Don't miss this place!!!
L'ATELIER de JOEL ROBUCHON -- This was such an amazing experience, and for lunch at that! Ten courses, 3 hours, and even my nonfoodie husband went WOW a few times. Will share the details in a separate post. It's worth it!
LA TRUFFIERE -- On the same day as Robuchon. Can't believe we had 2 such amazing meals in one day. This place is really special. We had a fun stroll through the Latin Quarter to find the place. We ate downstairs in their "cave" which was mostly lit by candles. Tres romantique with only about 8 tables. The staff, who could have been stuffy, given the prices and caliber of food, was relaxed and warm and friendly, even humorous. We felt instantly at ease and dove in to some of the best cooking of the week. Sommelier suggested a red wine cocktail to start, and that was a fun change from my Kir Royale fixation.
Amuse-bouche came in little soup tureens -- a cream of zucchini soup drizzled with white truffle oil. Wow. Taste buds engaged and ready for action. We split a starter of foie gras with mashed potato cake and it was wonderful. Warm and comforting. Would like to have one to myself next time. To our surprise, they then brought us each a small foie gras creme brulee which was a revelation. What a concept. And it totally worked. Fabulous flavors and textures. My main was my 2nd favorite main of the week -- duck leg stew with mashed potatoes and truffles. It came as a timbale, with the stewed meat on the bottom, mashed potatoes on top, thinly sliced black truffles lining the sides...sauteed foie gras on the very top, and a fabulous truffle sauce drizzled over and around. Another "I want to sing" moment. Especially since the sommelier brought me a glass of red wine that was totally perfect with the dish. Wish I'd written down what it was. I decided to eat and sip very very slowly. Glenn had another WOW moment with his red tuna stuffed with foie gras and rolled in filo dough and lightly fried. The tuna was still mostly raw, as it should be, and he said the combination of tuna and foie gras was amazing. We did not share bites this time. If we weren't happy enough, then they brought out the cheese trolley, a beautiful piece of furniture with at least 20 cheeses on it, and our server took lots of time to carefully explain each one. We each chose 3, he chose another 2 to round out the course, and then placed them on the plate in order from mildest to strongest and gave us special condiments to go with a few of them. I loved this...a bit theatrical and yet educational and ultimately divine eating! I had chevre with the most delicate orange honey (and I don't usually like honey as a condiment!), and there was a cheese called Cadot (sp?) I think that was made with Calvados, so they served it with an apple chutney. We had so much fun with the cheese course. Then they brought us pre-desserts of a creamy rice pudding with apricot-mango sauce. Lovely. My dessert was the house specialty -- a warm truffle souffle -- not chocolate, mind you, but black truffle, with mango coulis, and sherbet flavored with truffle honey. It was the most unique dish of the week. So glad I tried it. There was no skimping on the truffles, either...all mixed into the souffle and scattered all about the plate, too. Amazing flavor combo to have the sweet and earthy. Every bite, I'd say, "This is so bizarre, but I love it...I think!" It messed with my brain, and I just loved that it was special to the place and I'll be talking about it for years. Glenn had sorbets again, which he really liked. Then more little treats with our coffees. And it was another 3-hour meal we will remember forever. (Are people really allowed to have two 3-hour meals in one day?) The staff made such an impression on us. This is a place for a splurge...our bill came to 211e for the 2 of us but it was worth every centime.NOS ANCETRES LES GAULOIS -- Swinging to the low-end of the spectrum...Glenn was intrigued by this place, and since I'd refused him McDonald's, I thought the least I could do was go along with his choice for dinner for our last night.
It was a rolicking fun time, with some decent food. Fabulous bread...big basket of fresh veggies to start. Then a serve-yourself buffet of many kinds of sausages/salami-type meats, salads, corn. I couol dhave made a meal of that and been just fine. And a barrel of wine to fill your pitcher with (as much as you like included in the price). Quite drinkable, actually. Mains were a choice of grilled meats. I had steak, Glenn had lamb. Not the worst grilled meat I've had, but not wonderful. We skipped the cheese course, though it looked great (we needed to catch an evening boat ride for our last night in town), and went straight for dessert which was a very dark and rich chocolate mousse that made up for the so-so steak. The sides with the mains were terrible (overcooked beans, soupy rice...). I don't think people really come here for the food, though. It's just a fun "Viking" kind of atmospehere. There was a troubador walking around the place with guitar and singing old French folk/bar songs that the locals knew and sang along with. The rest of us clapped and enjoyed the merrymaking. I'm glad I went once, but wouldn't go again. I've heard the place next door (La Taverne de Sargent, I think) is similar, but with better food, so maybe we'll try that "next time."So those are the restaurant highlights. We also had a couple of picnics that were wonderful. With perfect weather, I'm so glad we were able to be outside soaking up the sun and the air and the LIFE of Paris.
Jul 4th, 2005, 12:46 PM
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Mmmmmmmm foodie porn! 
I love it! What a fantastic read!
BTW I wonder if the "bread" you had with your foie gras was toasted brioche? It's a common accompaniment with foie gras and the lightness and slight sweetness of it go really well with good foie gras.
And I agree with you on Rebluchon cheese. It's a favourite of mine also.
Many thanks for sharing such detail... very enjoyable.
I love it! What a fantastic read!BTW I wonder if the "bread" you had with your foie gras was toasted brioche? It's a common accompaniment with foie gras and the lightness and slight sweetness of it go really well with good foie gras.
And I agree with you on Rebluchon cheese. It's a favourite of mine also.
Many thanks for sharing such detail... very enjoyable.
Jul 4th, 2005, 12:50 PM
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Well, I asked for restaurant reports from your trip and you replied. Now I HATE you! Oh my God, it all sounds so wonderful.
I have one major question. You mention that you skipped wine at Tour d'Argent. Some have posted here saying you'll be looked down on for not doing wine, which I have never believed. But if that would happen anywhere I'd think it would certainly be here. Did you find that to be true?
And I've had a lot of creme brulees in my time, but a fois gras one? Now that sounds like heaven!
I have one major question. You mention that you skipped wine at Tour d'Argent. Some have posted here saying you'll be looked down on for not doing wine, which I have never believed. But if that would happen anywhere I'd think it would certainly be here. Did you find that to be true?
And I've had a lot of creme brulees in my time, but a fois gras one? Now that sounds like heaven!
Jul 4th, 2005, 01:00 PM
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Patrick,
I posted in 2003 about a wonderful creme brulee we had in Villandry:
The restaurant: L'Etape Gourmande,
Domaine de la Giraudière, Villandry
I had as a starter:
Crème brulée de legumes au foie gras
It was a savoury and gelatinous crème with a few lumps of foie gras but also with foie gras pulverised into the crème mix and a few bits of vegetables which I think were leek.
Very nice!
I posted in 2003 about a wonderful creme brulee we had in Villandry:
The restaurant: L'Etape Gourmande,
Domaine de la Giraudière, Villandry
I had as a starter:
Crème brulée de legumes au foie gras
It was a savoury and gelatinous crème with a few lumps of foie gras but also with foie gras pulverised into the crème mix and a few bits of vegetables which I think were leek.
Very nice!
Jul 4th, 2005, 04:18 PM
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Kavey,
I think you're right that the bread might have been toasted brioche. And I have since found out that the chef makes all of his bread on the premises. Fabulous!
Patrick,
Be careful what you wish for, right? I'm glad you enjoyed the reports. As for not having wine at La Tour d'Argent...not a word or a look. We were treated like royalty. We never ordered a bottle of wine the whole week, as Glenn doesn't drink at all. So I'd have a Kir Royale to start, and that would be it, except for our dinner at La Truffiere when I had that amazing glass of red which I'm still kicking myself for not writing down what it was!!!
I think you're right that the bread might have been toasted brioche. And I have since found out that the chef makes all of his bread on the premises. Fabulous!
Patrick,
Be careful what you wish for, right?
I'm glad you enjoyed the reports. As for not having wine at La Tour d'Argent...not a word or a look. We were treated like royalty. We never ordered a bottle of wine the whole week, as Glenn doesn't drink at all. So I'd have a Kir Royale to start, and that would be it, except for our dinner at La Truffiere when I had that amazing glass of red which I'm still kicking myself for not writing down what it was!!!
Jul 4th, 2005, 05:02 PM
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Ah La Trufferie, one of the best meals we ever had in Paris. November 2000, hubby and I got a great airfare to Paris from JFK for $311. My best friend had moved to Brussels that past May, why don't you meet us. We found this restaurant from a magazine ad. It was just great, we also ate downstairs in the cave. Divine!!! We had a 97 Santenay Burgundy that was like drinking velvet. Wonderful!!!
But I have to disagree with Petit Troquet - we didn't like it at all.
But I have to disagree with Petit Troquet - we didn't like it at all.
Jul 4th, 2005, 05:20 PM
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Hi
Thanks for the food report. We have just returned from Paris and we too ate at Nos Ancestres les Gaulois. This is a Gaul themed restaurant. We were served the big basket of raw vegetables for starters. My wife and I couldn't work out what to do with it! We decided that you had to pick the veggies you wanted and they would cook them for you. Just to be certain I asked the waiter - "What do we do now with these vegetables?" I asked. "You eat them" he replied in a somewhat perplexed and indignant manner. Oh well. Anyway we ate so much we had to pass dessert. We did have the cheese platter though.
The place next door is a little more expensive but includes beer as well. I don't think it's quite as atmospheric though. Nonetheless both are good value.
Thank God you resisted the McDonalds
temptation! A picnic lunch in the park with supplies from a supermarket including a good bottle of French red is a memorable and inexpensive dining experience. Hooray for the "Slow Food Movement".
Best wishes.
Thanks for the food report. We have just returned from Paris and we too ate at Nos Ancestres les Gaulois. This is a Gaul themed restaurant. We were served the big basket of raw vegetables for starters. My wife and I couldn't work out what to do with it! We decided that you had to pick the veggies you wanted and they would cook them for you. Just to be certain I asked the waiter - "What do we do now with these vegetables?" I asked. "You eat them" he replied in a somewhat perplexed and indignant manner. Oh well. Anyway we ate so much we had to pass dessert. We did have the cheese platter though.
The place next door is a little more expensive but includes beer as well. I don't think it's quite as atmospheric though. Nonetheless both are good value.
Thank God you resisted the McDonalds
temptation! A picnic lunch in the park with supplies from a supermarket including a good bottle of French red is a memorable and inexpensive dining experience. Hooray for the "Slow Food Movement".
Best wishes.
Jul 4th, 2005, 05:57 PM
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Oh yes, mopping up the sauce. My first trip to France, I was in Rotary, and as luck would have it the Avignon Rotary Club met at the hotel where we were staying, so I joined them for their lunch meeting. All local businessmen, and all said they couldn't speak English. But bit by bit they opened up and we had great conversations over lunch. My favorite part was I asked who or what the speaker would be and they had no idea what I was talking about. They never have a speaker, they just get together to eat and drink, and drink and eat. What a meal. But when they brought the wonderful filet of beef in a rich wine sauce, I was nearly shocked to see every single man in the room start breaking break into big chunks, drop them in the sauce and mop up it with a fork popping the soaked bread into their mouths. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven -- just the think I wanted to do, but didn't think I should dare. I've had no qualms about doing that since, in Paris or here in the US. Hey if it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me.
Jul 4th, 2005, 08:16 PM
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Lori,
What didn't you like at Le P'tit Troquet? Just curious. I recently read that Robuchon himself said it's one of his favorite bistros. Maybe they had a bad night when you were there? Fun to read about your time at La Truffiere. What a gem of a place. What other restaurants did you go to and enjoy?
What didn't you like at Le P'tit Troquet? Just curious. I recently read that Robuchon himself said it's one of his favorite bistros. Maybe they had a bad night when you were there? Fun to read about your time at La Truffiere. What a gem of a place. What other restaurants did you go to and enjoy?
Jul 5th, 2005, 05:31 AM
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wyf4lyf,
Maybe it was a bad night for them, after all everyone on this forum raves about Le Petit Trouquet. But we found the food mediocre, and the staff not as warm and welcoming as everyone has said. Interestingly, Eric G. who owns the Familia loves the place as well. As I said, maybe an off night, but we won't go back.
Maybe it was a bad night for them, after all everyone on this forum raves about Le Petit Trouquet. But we found the food mediocre, and the staff not as warm and welcoming as everyone has said. Interestingly, Eric G. who owns the Familia loves the place as well. As I said, maybe an off night, but we won't go back.
Jul 5th, 2005, 12:58 PM
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wyf4lyf,
Thanks for sharing all your scrumptious Paris meals with us. You are smart not to waste any meal in Paris -- life's too short!
I was there in early June and wished more restaurants offered a Grand Marnier souffle for dessert -- I am not a fan of creme brulee AT ALL...it's gotten so old and dull. Was surprised that it was hard to find dessert souffles in general. Perhaps they are more labor-intensive than some of the other desserts?
Cheers
Thanks for sharing all your scrumptious Paris meals with us. You are smart not to waste any meal in Paris -- life's too short!
I was there in early June and wished more restaurants offered a Grand Marnier souffle for dessert -- I am not a fan of creme brulee AT ALL...it's gotten so old and dull. Was surprised that it was hard to find dessert souffles in general. Perhaps they are more labor-intensive than some of the other desserts?
Cheers
Jul 5th, 2005, 01:36 PM
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Next time go to Le Cigale de Recamier or Le Souffle...they both specialize in souffles. I wasn't able to get to either, but they are both on my list for next time. Grand Marnier Souffle is one of my favorite things as well. I had a fabulous one in the Eiffel Tower restaurant in Vegas!!
