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Request for Itinerary help - first time in Italy

Request for Itinerary help - first time in Italy

Old Aug 29th, 2012, 11:20 PM
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Request for Itinerary help - first time in Italy

I will be traveling solo in Italy for 12 nights in mid October and would love a little advice. I am flying in and out of Rome and have pretty much narrowed down my wish list to spending a few days in or near Florence (maybe 3 or 4 - possible day trip to Cinque Terre if weather is conducive), several days in Tuscany (maybe South of Siena, Pienza or near Cortona - 4 or 5 nights), and a few days in Rome (4 or 5). I'm looking for a combination of seeing museums and some churches, but also reserving plenty of time for just enjoying being in Italy, watching the world go by and enjoying the experience (in other words - I am not looking to pack my days running from site to site and just seeing other tourists).

But I have a few questions... would it be better to get on a train directly from the airport and head to Florence, then work my way back through Tuscany to Rome, or go through Tuscany first, then Florence and return back to Rome. (It seems to me best to spend my last several days in Rome, so I don't stress out about getting back to the airport in time for my flight).

It seems like it might be difficult for me to explore Tuscany without renting a car - how difficult would it be for a person traveling alone, who's never been to the country to navigate through Tuscany? Have I lost my mind for considering it? (I definitely will ditch the car in Florence and Rome). Several years ago I drove across Ireland and was able to pre-plan my driving destinations easily enough and not get hopelessly lost (though I did have a friend with me on that trip).

Also, in Tuscany - for a single person, any recommendations about staying in a b&b vs agriturisimo? I'm looking at somewhat of a budget trip but not so budget as to stay in hostels (I'm in my mid-40's and know that a hostel would make me miserable). In Florence - better to look for an apartment in town or a b&b or agriturisimo just outside of Florence? In Rome - thinking of trying to find an apartment or room via airbnb - any thoughts on this? I rate equally on the scale of being an extrovert and an introvert, so I am fairly outgoing, friendly and easy to get along with, but I also like having some down time to myself as well.

I am so looking forward to this trip and really appreciate any advice! Thanks...
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Old Aug 30th, 2012, 02:15 AM
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I think it would be a good idea to head straight to Florence on your arrival in Italy. It's not a long journey and just getting from the airport to a hotel in Rome takes time as well. I wouldn't break up your stay in Rome and I also find it more relaxing to be in the city I'm flying home from beforehand.

As for a car in Tuscany, there are obviously more places you can reach by car but there are also many towns you can easily reach without one - plenty to fill 4 or 5 days. I personally find it more relaxing to use public transport, not least because if I have a car I feel compelled to run around like a hairy goat using it. Train timetables at www.trenitalia.com. Bus timetables also generally available online.

I think for a solo traveller that a hotel or B&B would generally be more affordable that an apartment. It also allows you more interaction with other people.

I think your plan sounds pretty good. You just need to decide which Tuscan town/s. Have fun!
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Old Aug 30th, 2012, 02:28 AM
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Yes the Florence start is a good idea (also solves the "I have jet lag and a car to drive" problem), Tuscany/Umbria can be done by public transport but is a bit of a pain why not just hire a car for part of it (since there is just you a small car is perfect and more use in piccole citta) It depends where you want to go. I'd either map out the possibilities of which towns look nice to stay in at night. My favs would be
St Gim, san quirico, montepulciano, montopoli (but no one ever seems to go there) and buonconvento (if I'm spelling it right)
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Old Aug 30th, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Thanks! I'll go ahead and start in Florence and work my way back. If I decide that it's worth it to pick up a car for the Tuscany stretch, is there anything I need to do to have permission to drive before I leave for Italy or will my California Driver's License cover me?
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Old Aug 30th, 2012, 02:11 PM
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No, you need an IDP from AAA. It's mandatory in Italy. You will also need to learn Italian road signs and town names (Firenze, not Florence, etc.). Most Italian cities have restricted areas where you aren't allowed to drive (ZTL's) so you will need to learn the signs for these.

I think it's difficult for someone alone to navigate and read road signs if you don't know the language. I also find it expensive. Are you fine with driving windy roads in the dark (it will be dark by 6)? Are you fine with being at an agriturismo at night without anything to do or would you rather be in a small town like Pienza where you could walk to dinner?

Which towns in Tuscany do you want to see? Many can be reached by bus, but not all. You could train to Florence upon arrival and do several day trips from there. From Siena, you can reach quite a few places by bus also.
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Old Aug 30th, 2012, 02:12 PM
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You'll need an International Drivers Permit (translation of your DL) which you can get at any AAA office for around $15-20. Bring your DL also.

I highly recommend using kemwel.com for your car rental arrangements. Be sure to look at deductibles when comparing prices. Their customer service and prices are excellent.

Pick up the car at the Florence airport. From there it's easy access to the A1 heading south to the Pienza area and you won't have to try to navigate the crowded and complicated streets of the city. You could then return the car in either Chiusi or Orvieto and take the train into Rome. Keep in mind that most rental car offices (except at the airport) close during lunch (~12-3:30) and are closed on Sunday. So, when looking at drop off options on the Kemwel site, use times that the offices will be open (or it will show "no cars available").

Make sure you get a good, detailed map of the area.

I love staying at this agriturismo (6 times!), located just outside of Pienza and in the most beautiful area-

http://www.fontebertusi.it/eng/

The owners will even loan you a GPS with suggested pre-programed drives, sites and places to visit. The owners are wonderful and the location could not be better. They also speak English.

Here is some good information on driving in Italy-

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/driving/index.htm

I have driven solo in the Italian countryside many times and feel it is very easy. It is the best way to explore the beautiful landscapes and towns/villages.

I prefer staying in apartments over hotels or B&B's. It allows more room and a kitchen. There are times when I don't want to go out to eat and I also enjoy the opportunity to shop for and prepare the local ingredients. I usually find apartments to cost less per night than a hotel.

Have fun!
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Old Aug 30th, 2012, 02:12 PM
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Can you drive a manual car? Most rental cars are manual and you will pay more to get an automatic.
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Old Aug 30th, 2012, 02:33 PM
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I second renting a car and staying at Fonte Bertusi. It is a wonderful B&B. I think we gained five lbs each with all the food they serve. The hosts are young and very friendly. There is a pool. Great location to see everything you want to see. Do use a gps. It will alleviate some of your anxiety. You can drop your car in Orvieto, visit the town for the day and then take the train on in to Rome.
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Old Aug 30th, 2012, 09:33 PM
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Thank you all so much for your generous advice! Fonte Bertusi was actually on my wish list of places to stay! I went ahead and sent a request to see if they have availability when I am there.

kybourbon - thank you for your concern and good points to consider. I can drive a manual car (and did so on the opposite side of the road from what I'm used to when I was in Ireland - which was an experience in itself!) I will take to heart your warnings about navigating on my own - just need to make a final determination about which towns I want to visit and what makes the most sense in the end.

zoecat - thanks for the amazing links! I have bookmarked them all and will spend the weekend going through them and seeing what makes the most sense for me...

Thank you, Everyone!
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Old Sep 1st, 2012, 08:39 AM
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When are you going? I'm doing a similar trip middle of Oct by myself. The second week I'm going on a culinary tour in Abruzzo.
Just saw an article that gas in Italy is currently $9.50 a gallon. I think I'll be taking the train!
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Old Sep 1st, 2012, 09:00 AM
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I'd bet a guidebook if I were you. I have found that obtaining and reading a guidebook during the planning stages of my trips adds to them immeasurably.
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Old Sep 1st, 2012, 07:28 PM
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hollywoodsc,
Don't let the price of gas scare you. It is high but most of the cars are diesel (I've never had a regular gas one) and very fuel efficient. I always come in way under budget on our gas.
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Old Sep 1st, 2012, 07:38 PM
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hollywoodsc - roughly the last two weeks of October. I've got it roughly narrowed down to 3 or 4 days in Florence, 4 or 5 days in Pienza (with day trips around Tuscany) and 4 days in Rome.

Still mulling the pros and cons of car vs train/bus in Tuscany. I think it's going to boil down to which towns I want to visit. I'm pouring over the several guide books that friends have loaned me! I'm leaning toward a car at this point.

For the moment, I'm most concerned with where I'm going to stay. I think I've got Pienza and Florence settled (just waiting for one more question to be answered before booking), but still looking in Rome.
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Old Sep 1st, 2012, 10:45 PM
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If you are going to Pienza, you will likely want a car. Public transportation around there is limited, and taxis tend be quite expensive if you plan to use them to go from one town to another.

If you have never used a GPS before, borrow one from a friend in the US and take a drive to an address you've never been, so you get the hang of it ahead of time, especially how to put in the address of someplace you want. Driving following the instructions is not difficult, just different, and you might feel less stressed if you are ahead of the game before you arrive in Italy.

Following a pre-programmed GPS driving route in Tuscany sounds to me like it would spoil some of the fun of being in Tuscany. There are towns and roads worth seeking out, but exploring without a fixed agenda.
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Old Sep 2nd, 2012, 07:16 AM
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Staying in Pienza, you will need a car. You can reach a few places by bus, but not many. In many of the nearby hill towns (Montepulciano, Montalcino, etc.), you will have to pay to park.

I've stayed in Pienza and area several times. Last time I was alone, I stayed in town at Il Giardino Segreto in their smallest apartment La Serra (45€ a night). If I stayed again, I would book a bigger apartment as the bedroom was upstairs in a lofted area and the living area only had a small table and chairs. I would have preferred more comfortable seating although if the weather is nice, they have a big courtyard with tables. Their prices seem to be about the same as when I last stayed there (2008). Click contattaci for the price list.
http://www.ilgiardinosegretopienza.it/

For other places to stay in Pienza, try Portale Pienza.
http://www.portalepienza.it/

Here's a bus map for the area. Very little bus service on Sundays (none on some routes).
http://www.sienamobilita.it/mappe/Mappa_EXT.pdf
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Old Sep 3rd, 2012, 02:09 AM
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I have been to Florence a few times and was there for three weeks on one stay. I found the train to be the most convenient way of seeing many towns around Tuscany. I did day trips to San Gimignano, Arezzo, Siena, Lucca, Via Reggio and a few lesser known ones closer to Florence for half a day. The train is so reasonably priced and relaxing. Check out acoommodation that is walking distance from Santa Maria Novella train station in Florence. To get to San Gimignano you take the train to Poggibonsi and cross the road to a bus which takes you up the hill to the town. You could also check out the internet to see if there are any events or festivals while you are in a specific town. Have fun.
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Old Sep 15th, 2012, 09:11 AM
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You're doing my trip! I also a solo female traveller. Flew from NY to Venice, Sept 1 - Perfect timing - went to a number of screenings at the Venice International Film Festival - and caught the annual regatta, (1st Sunday of Sept) which was quite an event.

Moved on to Tuscany where I'm helping out a few hours a day at a vineyard for room and board - which I thought would give me a day or two a week for day trips, but whe I said I was going to Siena overnight they insisted I should stay a few days and soak it in - and glad I did.

As far as transport goes - TAKE THE TRAIN! Its the only way to travel and be relaxed sure of where you're going when your traveling alone. I do all my research on my Ipad. (If you pay .01 Euro on Trainitalia for access to their WiFi during the ride.

Venice is stunning and a must, but the volume of tourists and rows of store selling the same masks and Murano glass, makes it feel a bit like Disneyland when your walking the streets. After taking the vaporetta to the islands of Lido, where the film festival was held, an Burano (not checking my spelling - it the island know for lace) with rows of pastel houses and a lay back town center, and local pace (both a short vaporretta (sp!) ride from Venice - I wish I stayed at either of those islands and done day trips to Venice.

I loved Penza - a rare balance of local daily life and pace, with tourist attractions. (There's a hotel there that used to be a monastery that was breath-taking , views, ambience, courtyard , charm - and for 90 E a night (which is what I paid for a lack-luster B&B in Venice, it was like a 5 star spa/hotel.

In Siena now - it was a last minute excursion from the vineyard - but I found a B & no B on Airbnb.com (the place to go for great apartments rooms and B&Bs - Once you find something in the center of town - I'm right off the Piazza de Campo - if you're staying a couple of days or longer, ignore the price per night listed on the website, and suggest a reduced price for a longer stay. They usually get people for one or two nights and have to clean and wait for the next booking - so a 4 day stay can get you a 30% discount. A two week stay you can probably negotiate 1/2 the price.
Pardon my spelling - but I'm sitting in from of a pair of huge glass shutter, peering out over my window box of flowers at an old woman closing her florist shop accross the street - while someones playing the violin at the a few doors down - so it's hard to focus.

Will mention food - Venice had tourist restaurants, many with menus with picture of the food on it - Though I'm sure there are some great restaurants, they are not the norm and very expensive. I couldn't believe that the pizza didn't even have fresh mozerella on it.
A local in Tuscany made up for it take to out to a fabulous meal in little town near Bettolle - 8 Euro pasta dish that I will dream of.
Didn't know what to expect in Siena - but the restaurant fare looked much more appealing, and then I stumbled on a charqueterri (again - I'm going for speed here, not spelling) called MENCHETTI on via Piangiani - a mini supermarket with amazing food, and a small pizza bar in the back that was drawing a crowd. I went right for it, and they weighed the slice for price, and then I saw them take a fresh hot pizza with anchovies and fresh cheese and basil out of the oven - and asked them to switch - we'ren't pleased because they would have to re-weight, but I just gave them an extra 50c - but they refused to take it. IT WAS THE BEST PIZZA I every had in my life - and 1 1/2 Euros - bottles of water were on .50c - less than 1/2 the price of Venice and other cities. Between the pizza and their cold meats, cheeses, pastries and salads - I will be eating there every day. (Have to come up with some disguises, it's going to get embarasing.
The huge Piazza Campo in Siena is very informal, its the only city where I ever saw people just sitting- and lying on the cobblestone in the square, enjoying the sun, having a snack, resting. Great micro-city.
Going to Rome for 3 weeks - and got a great rate on AirBnB because it's a three week booking. Plan on leaving my big luggage bag and taking a small weekender on some overnight trips - Maybe Amalfi Coast.
Anyway - I'm a veteran driven, but traveling alone as a mature woman I think trains are great, and with the money you save not renting a car you can take a great tour (driving a vespa on one tomorrow to a vineyard tasting, or take a cooking class, etc.
Anyway, enjoy!
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Old Oct 5th, 2012, 02:13 PM
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To URBANTALK1: VERY helpful tips! Thanks for taking the time. I am planning my first trip to Italia in March-May 2013. Thanks.
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