Reeder

Reply:
The last night in Levanto: I rested and wrote a long letter to friends who were most helpful in planning our trip. John (the darling) went to the laundromat. (We are dangerously low on undies!) He got lost and then wash took an hour. He was afraid the place would close before it was dry so he came home with the WET laundry!! We laid them out to dry all over the hotel (with owner's approval) Good thing we were the only guests.

Dinner again at Trattoria Cavour. John had the steamed mussels again and I ordered the cold seafood antipast that John helped me with. (This seafood antipast was large and excellent) John had the seafood pasta again, then grilled fish. I had stuffed mussels and a salad. Fish is the name of the game in this part of Italy for sure!!! We got the same dessert to share.

We met a nice couple from Australia on a one month trip and we had fun comparing notes.

I was tired but didn't sleep well. I went hard all day and in reality am the walking dead. For some reason right shoulder are is now very painful all night and into the next day.

We had another nice breakfast and owner's son in law gave me a bottle of white wine he thought we would enjoy. We checked out and headed for next stop Lake Como.

We had hoped to check out Portofino but passed it and with long ride ahead just pressed on --past Genova, Milano and finally to Bellagio.

Now this is a pretty approach coming into Bellagio with the lake so blue and the mountains as a backdrop. We were both impressed. It seemed as pretty as people said.

We had a delicious lunch at Silvio's just on outside of Bellagio. We tried the seafood antipasto--their specialty which was very good. Then we each ordered lasagna with fish sauce and ravioli stuffed with fish. Both were very good but I loved the lasagna.

Apparently Silvio's people are all fishermen and the fish tasted so fresh. This place had a great sunroom with great views of the lake. It looked like a charming place to stay also. We would recommend it.

We walked around Bellagio for awhile waiting for our car ferry to Varenna. (Two people, 4 dr car--9.40 E) Bellagio is VERY pretty with tropical trees right on the lake. Quite nice.

The ferry ride over to Varenna was beautiful and kind of exciting. We got out the binoculars to check out our home for the next two evenings. It was right on the lake at the ferry dock called Hotel Olivedo.

Laura, the owner greeted us warmly and said we had a very beautiful room.on the third floor Room 25. No elevator here--STAIRS!!! John went ahead with the luggage(keys were left in the door) The room was nice with patio overlooking lake etc. We settled in-- and much later realized we were in Room 15 not 25. The third floor in Europe we were to find out is what we consider the fourth floor!

We stayed put even though the room upstairs was much larger and had two patios but why more stairs?? It appears to be a nice charming old place, big bathrooms and comfortable beds etc.

Candles were lit on the tables for dinner. Laura runs the show here and does't miss a trick. Laura takes the food orders and there are choices. We had pumpkin and neat filled raviolis. The pumpkin gnochi were good but the meat raviolis were the best I ever had.

We both ordered fish and roasted potatoes. The fish was good (I guess) but not fileted well (I hate getting bones in my fish) so John ate most of it. This man has been having a fine time for his stomach! Dessert was tiramiso and poached pears--both were good.

There are more guests here than we are used to perhaps seven couples. It is a small hotel. Most guests were American, one Australian couple and one from Spain.

John took a walk after dinner and I hit the bed with Laura's antique heating pad? (Quite a thing to see!!) My shoulder was really painful--not sure what that was all about. I took some extra nonaspirin, the heating pad and hit the hay.

Bright and early the next morning a big truck was lining up for the first ferry below our room so we got up and at 'em!! My shoulder was still sore but much better than last night. We readied for our adventure on Lake Como.

Breakfast was simple but ample--cereal, breads, jams, oj and my cafe latte with lots of sugar to get me going.

We were off before 9 to Mennaggio.(A one day ferry pass cost 7.50 each) I wanted to just ride the ferry from town to town it was so beautiful!. Not a real warm day but sunny. The shimmering lake, cute towns with mountain backdrop is spectacular! John wanted to walk the town which we did but little was open yet. We did find a Post Office and mailed a couple of letters I wrote.

Mennaggio was a nice town bigger than I expected. Then back on the ferry to Bellagio where we walked and browsed the shops some more. More steps here going up. My legs are beyond the point of pain by now--they are just numb!!

Bellagio is a very nice town but a bit pricey. For example I found the exact same things I bought in Deruta and Siena (both touristy places) for over twice the price. The Deruta products add Bellagio to the writing on the bottom which I guess makes them more valuable??

We then took the ferry to Cadenabbia which seemed quieter, nice homes etc. We had a snack and glass of proseco (yum!) then caught the ferry back to Varenna via Bellagio. These ferry rides are not long --very very pleasant and efficiently run on time.

We then walked through Varenna which I found charming although not many shops, restaurant are open yet. John decided to hike up to the monastery (the fool) and I went back to the hotel.

He returned a couple of hours later complaining about his aches all over. (Could we have both picked up a bug?) . Of course when we both catch a bug his is always worse than mine. We napped for a couple of hours. John still doesn't feel right. He took some alka seltzer and a hot shower. He thinks some red wine may straighten him out.

John did fine with dinner that night although his stomach still doesn't feel right. Hello? (I have to tell you this man starves when he doesn't feel well and always feels he needs to feed and feed well whatever bug or illness he has!!)

We both had the meat filled raviolis which Laura said were a specialty of the area. Then we had a weak salad and sort of shared veal with wine and lamb chops. They were fine not extraordinary. (Do we sound like we have been eating too much for too long or what?) I think so. We ordered some desserts as well. We had poached pears this time with a custard and the tiramisu (which John sickly devoured)

I was busy chattting with several several of the other guests (this night all American) about our day and travel experiences in general. It was a very pleasant evening but we were exhausted after a VERY full day.

After breakfast the next morning we were on the road to the Dolomites! Hotel Olivedo was great for its location--very well priced, good value,(rooms were spacious and views to die for) however the stairs could be an impediment. I would say the food was ordinary--except for those raviolis!!

Next chapter on to the Dolomites Mountains and Tyrol Sud!!

Reeder

Bumping this as I wrote it predawn and it was buried. I know there are those of you out there looking for it. Just an added note if I may. Lake Como is very special and was a relaxing respite for us after our very busy first week. It was nice to sit on the ferry and let it do the walking! It is a beautiful place and a great little getaway from the hectic sightseeing. I always renew my soul when I am near the water. H

Natalia

Thanks for the reports, yes this one was buried.

Thinking back on the trip so far at this point would you change anything if you were going to recommend your trip path? Would you stay longer any place?

Reeder

Let me sleep on your question. I was up too early and put in a very full day so will answer you tomorrow I promise. Off hand we were pretty happy with our trip as we returned. It was much like taking several vacations in one--our destinations varied so much within the country. But yes there were things I would change if I had to do it over. Later. Helen

Reeder

Reply:
Regarding your question of what I would change:--best answer would be a longer trip to spend more time in a couple of places. I discussed this with my husband last night and with exception of getting lost on the back roads a couple of times (inevitable) he was quite pleased with everything. Of course I do all the planning and anticipating. Seriously I would have stayed one night closer to Montepulciano and those towns. We had to go south from Chianti region to get there and it seemed a bit of driving. This would have meant probably one less night in Chianti (and that would have been sad) It always comes back to time. I really wish we had at least one more day in the Dolomites as well as that was very special.
Basically the only lodging change I would have made was the Cinque Terre stay. Levanto hotel was fine don't get me wrong. I found the life in Cinque Terre delightful and much more simple than our rather materialistic lifestyle. It was thought provoking and uplifting and I would definately stay in Cinque Terre the next time--and there will be a next time. I was lucky and pleasd to get my husband to go away from his business for 17 days. Ours was more of a tasting trip so to speak, a little taste of this and a little taste of that. It was however a wonderful vacation for us --one of our best ever. After 34 years of marriage and three kids it is so nice to be alone together away for a long period of time and still dig each other. In many ways it was like our early married days (pre kids) yet somehow deeper, richer , better. This is probably more than you wanted to hear but I hope I have answered your question. H
ps I hope to get to Report Number 8 sometime today.

Natalia

Thanks Reeder, not too much at all, this site needs more heartfelt insights like you just gave, personal and informational trip reports like yours is why I keep coming here.

Natalia

Um, trip reports....ARE....(for the grammer police).

Your description of your time alone together as adults was wonderful, too.

DianaM

Wonderful trip report, am really enjoying it. I can't wait for the next installment. Thanks.

Carmen

Um, grammar (for the spelling police). Sorry ~

Dottie

I also,like your heart felt, honest report.It is a very good example of what is great about this board.

Natalia

Touche' Carmen!!