Oops...I think that is supposed to be Heidelberg...sorry!!

Tracy

Hi Tracy,
We did a similar trip just this past Oct. Maybe our trip report and photos could be of help...

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35089110

Paul

Paul,

Thank you for your report link! Your trip does indeed sound very similar to ours. We will be headed to Nuremberg (we spent a few nights in Nuremberg and Rothenburg a few years back, and both DH and brother have interest in WWII) and then onto the Berchtesgaden area. We spent 5 nights in Schonau a few years ago and it was delightful, although with my brother we may end up staying in Salzburg instead. We loved Ramsau as well, and ate at a lovely Inn perched high up in the mountains one night that was unforgettable.

A few questions for you: how was Cochem? Is it a very large or lively town? Are there many restaurants?

Thank you again! It sounds like you had a fabulous trip!

Tracy

"Is it a very large or lively town? Are there many restaurants?"

Althugh we loved the Haus Lipmann in Beilstein, we also liked Cochem. It certainly would have more to do than Beilstein, althugh if you stay on a weekend the place behind the hotel has music, beer and some other alcoholic beverages.

Here are a couple of suggestions from my trip report; one on how to get to Burg Eltz; the other on a place to eat (and maybe stay) in Cochem. Have fun!

"I had read in Steves' book not to follow the signs to Burg Eltz, because those were longer hikes. Instead we ignored the Eltz signs in Moselkern and followed the signs to Munstermaifeld as he had suggested. We kept the faith because it seemed like we were headed in the wrong direction.

However, in about seven kilometers we came to a T in the road. Signs to Burg Eltz were seen again. We made a left and went though Wierscheim and from that town's exit sign it was only 2km to the Burg Eltz Upper parking facility. It was an easy 10 -15 minute walk down to the castle from there.

It was then on to explore a little of the Cochem. The part of Cochem directly on the river is pretty touristy so we went up a few alleys and found a nice outdoor patio to have lunch. It was part of the Hotel Lohspicher, and we chatted with the owner who also served us.

The special was Zweibelkuchen (a delicious onion pie) that we had with a glass of young wine called Federweinber. It was great. The inside of the restaurant looked very nice as did the hotel. We might stay there if we ever come back."

Hope this helps.

You should consider staying for a time in Trier. It's in the Mosel valley but it's more lively than some of the smaller towns. It's also a good base for exploring the region and it has some fascinating Roman ruins from the time it was Constantine's capital.

Another place we really liked was Bernkastel-Kues. Half-timbered buildings, cute restaurants and lovely town square.

Thank you both so much for your help. You've given me something to think about and a few more places to research!

Anybody have any thoughts on Heidelberg and it's surrounding region? I did a little research and I'm intrigued but I would love to hear from someone who has been to both regions.

Thanks!
Tracy

Hi, tcreath -

I have been to most of the places you are considering, but I have been to Heidelberg, and I loved it! The castle there is incredibly evocative, and the woods surrounding the Neckar are lovely. I would imagine you can take a boat to the Neckarsteinach to see other castles - you could when I was there. Heidelberg is also home to a very old university, so it has the lively activities that accompany college life.

Hope that helps!

Hi again Tracy,
For towns along the Mosel, I'd suggest Cochem as the most "lively" town to stay in. Plenty of restaurants, cafes, stores, shops, etc. Bernkastel-Kues would be my second choice (similar to Cochem) although it's further from Burg Eltz and Marksburg castle on the Rhein. Bernkastel-Kues is very close to Trier though. Beilstein is beautiful, but it's very small and not nearly as busy (touristy) as Cochem at all. We had dinner in Beilstein one night and it's only a 15 to 20 min. drive from Cochem. Zell is also a nice town, yet very small. Just a recommendation... if you stay on the Mosel, see Burg Eltz. It really is an amazing castle!

Paul

Tracy, we have stayed in Beilstein and Bernkastel-Kues on the Mosel and in Bacharach on the Rhine.

Beilstein is on a beautiful part of the river but really is pretty small. We visited Cochem and it is much busier as others have said.

We really enjoyed Bernkastel-Kues on our visit this past September. It's also on a pretty part of the river and there are some great restaurants and shops. We stayed at the Hotel Binz right in the pedestrian area.

We also visited Trier. It is a much larger city with lots to see and do.

Tough decision as there are so many neat places!

Can't tell you much about Heidelberg because we didn't stop there. Instead we stayed in Bad Wimpfen which we totally enjoyed, but it is also very small. However, the Neckertal area is lovely and you are close to Speyers, Dinkelsbuehl and Schwaebisch Hall among other neat towns.

If you want to read any of our several trip reports on Germany, go to www.webshots.com and do a search for dkubiak.

Hi Tracy,

I'm glad to see recs for Trier since that is what I thought of when I read your post it has quite a bit of Roman history (which if I recall your reports correctly you and your husband enjoy?). Here's a link on some of the Roman highlights to get you started: http://www.worldheritagesite.org/sites/trier.html

We had a car and parked in the owner's spot for a small additional fee and made day trips to Metz, Luxembourg, and the usual suspects along the Moselle.

Here's an old post which includes information on a great apartment (we booked a studio but ended up in a two bed/one bath that could work for you). The owner is lovely and the price couldn't be beat.

Good luck. We loved Trier and hope to return one day.

Maureen
________________________________________________

Author: mvor
Date: 01/23/2006, 07:04 pm
We spent 4 nights in Trier this past November. We took daytrips to Luxembourg and Metz, France; a drive around the Moselle; and a day in Trier exploring the Roman Ruins and the town.

We rented an apartment (Ferienwohnung An der Schellenmauer) that we found on the Trier tourism site:

http://tinyurl.com/cjc4s

The apartment cost 40€ and is located about five minutes from the old town. We booked directly with the owner, Mrs. Baro, not the tourist office.

Mrs. Baro is in the process of learning English so communication was a little difficult since we don't speak German but she was very helpful and the apt. was immaculate and well stocked.

(We actually ended up in a different apt. than the one shown on the site which is a studio. We never really learned why they upgraded us but we appreciated the extra space.)

Ferienwohnung An der Schellenmauer
Große Eulenpfütz 5
54290 Trier, Germany

Tel.: +49 651 76542 + 40887
Fax: +49 651 74799
e-mail: rosel.baro@gmx.de

Best of luck!

I can't thank you all enough for your helpful replies!! I just love fodors...

Okay, so now I am trying to decide between Cochem, Trier, Bernkastel-kues and Heidelberg, but I'm glad I have some places to research. All look lovely and I'm sure would make excellent bases.

mvor, thank you so much for the apartment link! You are absolutely right...my husband and I (and my brother) are history buffs and particularly love Roman history. We know that we definitely want to visit Trier, but to be honest I never thought about staying there. I will definitely check it out, and the apartment looks great! That's one thing that I forgot to mention; we are looking at apartments with two bedrooms, as my brother is on a budget and overall we just prefer the apartment exprerience.

Betty, thank you for your link! I know from reading past posts that you are a big fan of Germany and that we seem to enjoy a lot of the same areas in Bavaria so I will enjoy looking at your pictures!

Thanks again everyone!
Tracy

Cochem is a wonderful town for a Mosel base, the largest of the villages with the most to do, and ideally situated for daytrips, but it will NOT be very busy in April. Plan on some TV watching and evenings in quiet pubs.

Trier is a small city with much more to do but not anywhere near as scenic as Cochem.

Frau Mattes at Loehrstrasse 34, a couple of blocks up from the Markplatz and the Lohspeicher mentioned above, offers a 2-br apartment on two floors with balcony for around 40/night. Lovely place.
tel 02671/5448

Russ, thank you for your thoughts. Scenery does make a difference, as we are looking for a scenic place to base ourselves.

I've come to the conclusion that my brother just needs to suck it up and realize that most of the towns along the Rhine/Mosel are not going to be happening places in April! I think he is thinking about Rome, where everyone eats late and the city is bustling at all hours of the night. And to compare that to Germany is absurd and I told him so...this will be a completely different vacation from what he experienced in Rome. And since we are using our FF miles to pay for his flights he isn't allowed to complain too much!

With all of that being said, we are still trying to decide between Cochem and Heidelberg.

Thanks everyone!
Tracy

Heidelberg is a great town, in my opinion - there is every imaginable type of food and I've never had a bad meal. There are tons of bars that cater to all ages - it's extremely walkable. And, it's extremely easy to get on and off the A5 and the A6. April is a gorgeous time to be there.

Now, Trier is also a great town - the history there is amazing (as it is in Heidelberg). Do your research on the town before you go OR pick up one of the books about the town when you get there. There are a ton of ruins and and very very worth seeing. Lot's of restaurants and bars there, too.

I think we will visit Trier regardless of where we stay because we are into Roman history and really want to visit the city.

I am just so torn between Heidelberg and Cochem!! Both sound great. I think that at this point I'm leaning a little more towards Heidelberg for my brother, even though I personally would probably choose Cochem.

Tracy

Since you are so torn, I thought I would put in my two cents for Heidelberg. My father-in-law lived right outside of Heidelberg, so it was our base for three weeks while we visited. I loved the castles and the area. It escaped bombing, through a great story, and has wonderful buildings to see. As said before, the history is very interesting. I would definitely reccomend Hiedelberg and the surrounding area. Where ever you choose, have a great time!

Tracy,

I see that once again, we will follow in your travel footsteps! This is an area of Germany I haven't had a chance to visit and am looking forward to it!

My middle child (Daughter aged 21) has decided to do a study abroad semester at the University in Trier. I believe that requires a visit!!!

I have no advice, but I am avidly reading all of your responses because I am making some of the same decisions. We'll be in the area beginning in early May!

Happy travels, and let us know your final plans!
Thanks
H

Tracy, you are a good sister and since you get to travel so much more than your brother I'd follow your instincts and stay in H. I hope you have a terrific trip regardless of what you decide and I look forward to your report!

(Like Betty, we also enjoyed Bad Wimpfen and Dinkelsbuehl -- decisions, decisions.)

All these Mosel/Rhine suggestions are great: Bernkastel-Kues is great; Cochem is touristy but quietens down a few streets back from the river; I lo-o-ove Bacharach. If you want bigger, then go for Trier.

Heidelberg, though - that really is something. Big enough for nightlife and drinks, but still relaxing, and a castle with a view to die for - not to mention the parks and wooded walks around it. The Neckar too is interesting - different mood to the Rhine or Mosel, but interesting villages along its way.

i did part of this same trip last year in winter. it is headed "moseying down the mosel" if you want to pull it up.

Comparing Heidelberg and Cochem you may want to take a look at some statistics:

Heidelberg: 144,000 inhabitants, more than 25,000 college students

Cochem: 5,100 inhabitants

Cochem can be nice, cute, cosy, interesting, beautiful.. but it is not a place you would consider to "roam around" at night when you are a 20 something guy.

BUT: College winter break lasts until April 7 - so Heidelberg won't be busy with students until then. (Just in case you plan to stay the very first days of April in HD)

Forget Beilstein as a base. It is a gorgeous, tiny town, but you can easily visit it from Cochem, which would be my choice as a base. I do think your brother would be bored in Beilstein.

Cochem does have some nightlife, although it's not Rome. It's a lovely city...easily walkable...nice castle...great river promenade...nice bars and restaurants, etc. And, some do stay open quite late. We were in a bar one night...looked at our watches...and, it was 3 a.m.! The bartender said she hated to close because we were having so much fun. Bless her! (And, we're in our mid-50's.) If you decide on the Mosel area, make Cochem your base.

We also love Bernkastel-Kues, but it doesn't have a lot of nightlife either. There are a few late-night bars, with music, but not many.

Heidelberg is a great city also. Lots of nightlife, considering all the student taverns, Roten Oschen, Seppl's, etc. Gorgeous castle, the famous Vetters brewery, good restaurants, etc. Burg Guttenberg, Hirschorn, and Hornberg are all in the vicinity.

You've got your hands full with trying to decide between the two areas. How about 2 nights in Cochem and then 1 night in Heidelberg? I know this would cut out a 3rd night in either area, but it could be easily done and you'd get a taste of both.

My main question is: How are you traveling between cities? Are you renting a car or using trains? If you have a car...no problems. If you're using rail service, please note that the Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof is a fair distance from the old part of the city and would entail taking a taxi or public transportation to travel back and forth to/from the Altstadt, for day trips.

Depending on where you stay in Cochem, if you're using trains, you can walk to the train station. Just something to consider if you don't have a car.

Valarie

We loved Beilstein (Hotel Haus Lipmann) as a base for 3 days, but we were not 23 years old at the time. If brother likes to wander at night, there's no real "party city" in that area of the Mosel, but Cochem would have more to do than Beilstein has.

tcreath: I know your post has been up for a long time, but maybe you'll check it and see this. You really got a lot of great information from the earlier posters, and the Rhine/Mosel Valley region is one of the nicest in Germany, I think.

But one place nobody mentioned is Koblenz, which is at the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel, and also the confluence of the train lines that run up and down those rivers. This makes it really easy to take day trips down either river during the day, and return to Koblenz at night. Now, Koblenz doesn't offer the beauty and charm of any of the smaller towns farther down river, but it does have some nightlife and a very nice altstadt. My wife and I were in the area for more than a week in September, and we really enjoy going out at night, not to party, but to have dinner, walk around, maybe a drink, walk around more, maybe dessert. What we found is that the smaller towns, like Bacharach, Beilstein, St. Goar, Boppard, etc. have just a few restaurants, and many places close up at night. This was even true in Cochem, which is several times larger than those smaller towns. Koblenz, on the other hand, is a pretty sizeable town, with a large shopping district, lots of restaurants, etc. Much more night life, or more to the point, it actually has a night life. Trier is the same, though it's a good bit smaller than Koblenz, and you would not have access via train to the towns along the Rhine, just the Mosel.

But you've made such a great choice of a place to go, and you've gotten so much great advice, I'm sure you'll have a great time no matter where you'll stay. Tip a glass of Spaetlese for me!

Tracy.
I've stayed in Heidelberg & Sankt Goar and stayed a day in Cochem. If I had to choose between Heidelberg and Cochem, I'd choose the latter.

We went to Heidelberg with high expectations. While the location is beautiful, the city reminded us of a rather messy, US college area. Lots of kids with American garb, tatoos, body piercing and drunk on the littered streets, with little "Europe feel". We are very open to most things, but regretted staying in Heidelberg. We liked the German feel of Sankt Goar and Cochem much better.

Tracy...I'm glad to see your current post, because I need to ask you a favor. On a previous post I asked if you would be so kind as to send me the list you've worked up of apartments in Germany. You very politely said you'd send an email right away...and I'm sure you did, but because of my anti-spam program I must have deleted you. Yikes!
Would you mind sending it again? I'll be more careful this time.

Thanks! mkdiebold@insightbb.com