Pueblos Blancos trip.
Mar 10th, 2008, 02:58 AM
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Pueblos Blancos trip.
I have been staying several days in Ronda with an exhibition of my paintings, and have had the chance to make some trips. The weather was fine, sunny but a little windy. Though during the day is hot in the sun (not so much in the shade), at night it freezes, so beware.
1: Ronda to Arcos and back.
One day I took the Ronda to Jerez road. Exit from Ronda has big zigzags, but soon the road is ok for 90-100 km/h. There are impressive sights, but almost no space to stop, a narrow curb most of the way. Soon you find to the left the detour to Benaoján and Cueva de la Pileta, worth a visit but you need to get the details at www.cuevadelapileta.org
At about 20 min. you find on the left the detour to Grazalema, we’ll talk of this further on. You continue towards Algodonales, pass two exits for Zahara, to disregard. Passing Algodonales (the main road does not cross the town) you find another exit for Zahara, which is the one to take, but on the way back. Now the landscape changes from Sierra with pines and oaks to flatter and featureless. Pass Villamartín and arrive in Bornos. Here I discovered a gem. Go into the town till you reach a building that resembles a castle, now park where you can. The main square is surrounded by a church, the town hall and the tourism office. Go into this, it is an old palace really worth the visit. Houses several town hall offices, and it is free. Do not miss going up the tower with a great view of the town and the reservoir in the distance. A beautiful courtyard that’s being restored, and a very nice garden where you can idle. Little more has this town to offer, another palace is closed for restorations, and I sadly have to not recomend walking the streets as the results of modernisation are obvious: most of the wooden doors have been changed for metallic ones, air conditioners on roofs and so on. Besides, I could only find a bar nearby, and I don’t recommend it. For toilet facilities, ask the man at the tourist office, I presume there are in the building but forgot to ask.
Continue your drive to Arcos de la Frontera, about 15 mins. away. This town has grown a lot since my last visit, there is an entrance to “Arcos east” which I took and got very lost. In the end, I recommend skipping it, continue to Jerez and take the second entrance, that takes you right to the main high square (follow the Parador signs) with the balcony and a view to gasp. Streets are narrow, and getting here can be tricky if you drive a big car, (a station wagon), but if not, there’ll be no problem. Several posibilities for lunch, all very near: Restaurant Marques de Torresoto; the restaurant of Hotel el Convento, and the rest. at the Parador, more pricey.
You can exit town and cross iron bridge of San Miguel (you can see it from the balcony), turn right and drive along the base of the cliff towards several roundabouts until the road to Paterna, take it for a couple of kms and turn back for a great view of the town. There are some places to stop. Now is time to drive back to Ronda from the same roundabout you just took. It is a 90 min. drive non stop, but upon reaching the Zahara detour at Algodonales, I rec to take it: 9 km to the town, but first you reach the dam, you can stop there, there is no traffic, and take photos. The town looks better in the afternoon light. Now you can continue to the town, visiting or not, and follow the road to Grazalema. It goes by the reservoir and lets you go back to the main road or go to Grazalema; Or you can backtrack to Algodonales. Upon crossing a bridge there is a sign that’ll take you to the town only; if you want to get to the main road, skip it. Near Ronda you have a nice view of the city, and there is a space to park on the right.
1: Ronda to Arcos and back.
One day I took the Ronda to Jerez road. Exit from Ronda has big zigzags, but soon the road is ok for 90-100 km/h. There are impressive sights, but almost no space to stop, a narrow curb most of the way. Soon you find to the left the detour to Benaoján and Cueva de la Pileta, worth a visit but you need to get the details at www.cuevadelapileta.org
At about 20 min. you find on the left the detour to Grazalema, we’ll talk of this further on. You continue towards Algodonales, pass two exits for Zahara, to disregard. Passing Algodonales (the main road does not cross the town) you find another exit for Zahara, which is the one to take, but on the way back. Now the landscape changes from Sierra with pines and oaks to flatter and featureless. Pass Villamartín and arrive in Bornos. Here I discovered a gem. Go into the town till you reach a building that resembles a castle, now park where you can. The main square is surrounded by a church, the town hall and the tourism office. Go into this, it is an old palace really worth the visit. Houses several town hall offices, and it is free. Do not miss going up the tower with a great view of the town and the reservoir in the distance. A beautiful courtyard that’s being restored, and a very nice garden where you can idle. Little more has this town to offer, another palace is closed for restorations, and I sadly have to not recomend walking the streets as the results of modernisation are obvious: most of the wooden doors have been changed for metallic ones, air conditioners on roofs and so on. Besides, I could only find a bar nearby, and I don’t recommend it. For toilet facilities, ask the man at the tourist office, I presume there are in the building but forgot to ask.
Continue your drive to Arcos de la Frontera, about 15 mins. away. This town has grown a lot since my last visit, there is an entrance to “Arcos east” which I took and got very lost. In the end, I recommend skipping it, continue to Jerez and take the second entrance, that takes you right to the main high square (follow the Parador signs) with the balcony and a view to gasp. Streets are narrow, and getting here can be tricky if you drive a big car, (a station wagon), but if not, there’ll be no problem. Several posibilities for lunch, all very near: Restaurant Marques de Torresoto; the restaurant of Hotel el Convento, and the rest. at the Parador, more pricey.
You can exit town and cross iron bridge of San Miguel (you can see it from the balcony), turn right and drive along the base of the cliff towards several roundabouts until the road to Paterna, take it for a couple of kms and turn back for a great view of the town. There are some places to stop. Now is time to drive back to Ronda from the same roundabout you just took. It is a 90 min. drive non stop, but upon reaching the Zahara detour at Algodonales, I rec to take it: 9 km to the town, but first you reach the dam, you can stop there, there is no traffic, and take photos. The town looks better in the afternoon light. Now you can continue to the town, visiting or not, and follow the road to Grazalema. It goes by the reservoir and lets you go back to the main road or go to Grazalema; Or you can backtrack to Algodonales. Upon crossing a bridge there is a sign that’ll take you to the town only; if you want to get to the main road, skip it. Near Ronda you have a nice view of the city, and there is a space to park on the right.
Mar 11th, 2008, 02:29 AM
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2. Ronda to Ubrique and back
Exit Ronda towards Jerez. In 20 min. you find the detour to Grazalema on the left. It is a 40 km/h road, a pleasant drive with great views. After 9km take the road to Villaluenga del Rosario and Ubrique. A very rocky landscape, with bulls and some places to stop, and a great mirador. Last strecth towards Ubrique is steep and widing, but safe. When you get to the gas station, the town is down on the left. The road lets you glimpse a beautiful view of the town, but no place to stop. I’d walk from the gas station and send someone with the car to pick me down. The town itself I’d skip, as it’s grown very much due to the leather business, it is hard to drive and imposible to stop near the churches. And you may find no bargains, prices are more or less the same as in Ronda.
Continue driving along the recently improved road to Villamartin, a nice 90km/h one at least till El Bosque, where I left it. You can continue towards Villamartin and stop for lunch at Hacienda El Rosalejo (with a very complete website, including map: www.elrosalejo.com, only in spanish). This was my original plan, but had to change it, so I cannot comment on it. As always, if you decide to go there, make a reservation in advance, best by phone. Alter lunch you may continue to Villamartin, in the Arcos-Ronda road.
I continued to El Bosque, Benamahoma (passing this town you see by the left of the road one of the few Pinsapo trees that grow outside the park) and Puerto del Boyar, with great views. We are now the other side of the sierra, this landscape greener and with pines. Arrive at Grazalema. There is a first big parking lot on the right, and further down a second parking by the restaurant El Mirador (a nice place for lunch). This parking is a very short walk to the town’s main square. Alter the visit, continue driving till you get to the Ubrique-Ronda road, and back to Ronda.
Exit Ronda towards Jerez. In 20 min. you find the detour to Grazalema on the left. It is a 40 km/h road, a pleasant drive with great views. After 9km take the road to Villaluenga del Rosario and Ubrique. A very rocky landscape, with bulls and some places to stop, and a great mirador. Last strecth towards Ubrique is steep and widing, but safe. When you get to the gas station, the town is down on the left. The road lets you glimpse a beautiful view of the town, but no place to stop. I’d walk from the gas station and send someone with the car to pick me down. The town itself I’d skip, as it’s grown very much due to the leather business, it is hard to drive and imposible to stop near the churches. And you may find no bargains, prices are more or less the same as in Ronda.
Continue driving along the recently improved road to Villamartin, a nice 90km/h one at least till El Bosque, where I left it. You can continue towards Villamartin and stop for lunch at Hacienda El Rosalejo (with a very complete website, including map: www.elrosalejo.com, only in spanish). This was my original plan, but had to change it, so I cannot comment on it. As always, if you decide to go there, make a reservation in advance, best by phone. Alter lunch you may continue to Villamartin, in the Arcos-Ronda road.
I continued to El Bosque, Benamahoma (passing this town you see by the left of the road one of the few Pinsapo trees that grow outside the park) and Puerto del Boyar, with great views. We are now the other side of the sierra, this landscape greener and with pines. Arrive at Grazalema. There is a first big parking lot on the right, and further down a second parking by the restaurant El Mirador (a nice place for lunch). This parking is a very short walk to the town’s main square. Alter the visit, continue driving till you get to the Ubrique-Ronda road, and back to Ronda.
Mar 27th, 2009, 02:00 AM
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You will find a useful road map and a list of walking routes from here:
http://www.topwalks.net/en/sierra_grazalema.htm
These routes are highly recommended and the route descriptions and maps are very detailled.
http://www.topwalks.net/en/sierra_grazalema.htm
These routes are highly recommended and the route descriptions and maps are very detailled.
Sep 29th, 2010, 03:31 AM
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Great Report, Josele. A bit dissapointed that there was no stop at Vejer de la Frontera. This charming village has one of the most beautiful squares I have ever seen. A walk around town also leads to ramparts and towers and beautiful houses with Moorish courtyards; just lovely. A Do Not Miss!
Sep 29th, 2010, 07:07 AM
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I know Vejer and have been painting there. Beautiful town. Too far from Malaga as to make a daytrip, I stayed at Convento de San Francisco, it was recently opened then, very pleasant.
Have not included it in the tours as it is far enough.
Have not included it in the tours as it is far enough.
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