cybertraveler

Hello all,

I am polishing up the final details of a 31 day trip to Italy that begins in less than two weeks! I’ll be traveling with DH and two teenage sons, ages 14 and 16. This is my fifth trip to Italy, and DH and I have driven around Tuscany on our last trip, so we have a bit of experience. It’s the first trip to Europe for our boys, and we want to make it a wonderful family experience.

I’ve done a lot of research here and on other sites (notably Trip Advisor), and I’m listing the restaurants and other specifics below to help others who might be looking for suggestions. One thing I did this trip for the first time was to research restaurants and ask the hotels to make the actual reservations. In the past I have done that myself by email; having the hotels do it is much easier!

I’m also hoping that some of the more experienced Italy travelers out there can help me fill in the areas that are still not as “planned” as I’d like.

Since it’s a long itinerary, I’m going to post in small parts. However, here’s the overview:

Fly into Venice. Stay 4 nights
Train to Florence. Stay 5 nights
Drive to San Gimignano. Stay 2 nights
Drive to Siena. Stay 4 nights
Drive to Orvieto. Stay 1 night
Train to Rome. Stay 4 nights
Train to Naples, private driver to Positano. Stay 7 nights
Return to Rome. Stay 2 nights
Fly home from Rome

So, here’s part 1, and I would truly appreciate any input!

Venice and Florence
Day 1: Arrive in Venice 11:15 am
After check-in at the Residenza Corte Grimani, if we have the energy we can take a ride on Vaporetto #1, enjoy a leisurely lunch somewhere, and hopefully pick up a few groceries for breakfast. We’ll also pick up the Multi-Day vaporetto tickets, since I think my sons will truly enjoy riding around that way.
Dinner reservations at Hostaria Gallileo

Day 2: 9:00 am private tour of Doge’s Palace and Basilica San Marco.
After that is unplanned. We’ll probably just walk around, but if anyone has any suggestions on how to use the time better, I’d appreciate them.
Dinner reservations at Da Mamo

Day 3: Early tour of Basilica de San Marco (can I pre-book entry here?), then go to the top of the Campanile (being very careful NOT to be at the top on the hour, which can be deafening), and then we’re free, so I’m looking for suggestions here.

We’ll take a gondola ride in the evening before dinner, which is not booked. Does anyone know of the best way to get a good deal on these rides? Also, what time would you recommend in order to get to dinner by 8:00?

Dinner reservations at La Porta D’Acqua

Day 4: Possible boat tour to Murano/visit Accademia in the later part of the day. Any suggestions here would be most appreciated!
Dinner reservations at Ai Mercanti

Florence
Day 5: Train to Florence. I booked these tickets online back in April, and I think we got good fares at 44 Euro each. We arrive in Florence at 1:30, and after check-in at Hotel Hermitage, we can visit the church at Santa Croce and explore the area around the Ponte Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria.
Dinner reservations at Trattoria Quattro Leoni on the Oltrarno, where we have eaten before, and really enjoyed the relaxed feeling on that side of the river.

Day 6: Visit the Bargello early in the day, since it can get extremely hot, then possibly tour the Duomo, Baptistry area. Would it be too much to try to squeeze in the Medici Chapels?
Dinner reservations at Ristorante il Pennello

Day 7: Private tour of Uffizi Gallery with Freya’s Florence at 10:00 am. I have toured the Uffizi with a private tour, using the audio guides, and with Rick Steves in hand; it’s always wonderful, but I thought the private tour would be best for the boys’ first trip. It’s practically an art history course!

Then we’ll have time for a quick panini lunch before we head over to the Accademia, where I have pre-booked entry at 2:00. I thought we’d get the major art all in one day; we’ll see how that works out, and I’ll let you know.

Dinner reservations at La Burrasca.

Day 8: Monday, so I know that many museums will be closed. So this might be the day to visit the Medici Chapel. If it’s open, we’ll go to the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. Otherwise, we’re also interested in cooking classes, so if anyone can recommend a nice lunch time class, we’d love to know about it.
Dinner reservations at Antica Tratorria da Tito

Day 9: totally unplanned! That could be fun, so we’re completely open to any help here.
Dinner: Vini e Vecchi Saporo

Thanks to all who have read this far. I hope to receive some helpful tips.

annhig

ok, using your breakdown of the days, here's my two penn'oth:

Day 1- i agree about picking up the vaporetto passes. on your first day you might like to wander/get the boat over to the zattere, have a gelato or two in the sunshine, then walk back through dorsoduro to the accademia bridge [or even the rialto if you are feeling energetic].

Day 2 - after your tour of the doge's palace, why not get the boat out to the lido and go for a swim? i bet the boys will be ready for one by then. i have a feeling that you can rent cycles over there too which the boys, and you, may enjoy.

Day 3 - not sure why you are going back to the Basilica - much better IMHO to get an early start at the rialto market, where you and your boys can marvel at all the different fruit, veg, and especially fish. there are cafes where you can have breakfast too. from there, head to the Frari and the Scuola di san rocco to see some more works by Tinteretto - which will tie up with what you saw the day before. there is also a gondola maker in this area somewhere. i would try and fit the Accademia in here somewhere.

Day 4 - trip to the islands. OK go to Murano if you must, but definitely visit Burano [for the painted houses and lovely atmosphere] and Torcello [for the ancient basilica, the mosaics, and again, the atmosphere].

will have to come back for florence - got to work!

Delaine

Regarding a gondola ride in Venice, I don't know that there is a way to "get a good deal"; you just have to negotiate with the gondolier. It may be a little more costly at dusk but worth it, in my opinion. My boyfriend and I did a gondola ride around 7pm in order to be back for our 8pm dinner reservation. I had already selected a gondola stand very near our restaurant, so you might want to look and see if there is one near the restaurant where you have reservations so you will know how long to allow for walking from the gondola station. A ride will last between 40-50 minutes usually, depending on what you negotiate.

On Day 3 in Venice I would consider visiting Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, which has beautiful art and notable tombs. In addition or instead you could take the vaporetto to San Giorgio Maggiore and go up the elevator to the top of its campanile. You will get a different view than you did in San Marco. It is also less crowded.

If you are going as far as Murano, I would go on to Burano. I like Burano much better since I was not planning to make major glass purchases.

Regarding Day 6 in Florence, I think you could squeeze in the Medici Chapels. Are you also going to visit the Museo dell'Opere del Duomo? It has some very nice works.

One of your evenings in Florence, I would go up to Piazzale Michelangelo for sunset if you haven't done this before.

bilboburgler

you could do a bike tour along the coast for the kids in Venice

Peter_S_Aus

For your kids in Venice:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-teenagers.cfm which might be fun.

sarge56

2nd the suggestion for San Giorgio Maggiore. The views are spectacular.

Dinner #3 in Venice.. La Zucca. Terrific. Affordable. You will need reservations: http://www.lazucca.it/?lang=en (Top rating on TripAdvisor, fyi.)

One of those days in Florence, you need to get up to the Piazzale Michelangelo just before sunset. Killer views.

Buon viaggio!

nytraveler

Sorry I can;t give specific comments. To me this is so much the antithesis of a vacation that I don;t know how to deal with this. We reserve hotels and car - plus anything that must be reserved in advance (Borghese etc) and then wing the rest - based on a list of what we want to see and open days.

What do you do if it's pouring rain one day? Of if you stay out late one night and then don;t feel like getting up at 7 am the next day.

With two teens I wold try to be more flexible - or break up into pairs to do what each person wants most. And at that age they're certainly capable of spending time by themselves if they're not interested in specific activities.

cybertraveler

Thank you to everyone who took the time to read and reply to my long post!

Annhig, I appreciate your suggestions about specific areas to spend some time. I’ve never considered the Lido, but that might be just the thing after a long tour. The physical activity would probably be great for them.

We’re going to the Basilica the next day to break things up, since it’s not part of our tour. I planned it for early in the day to avoid crowds somewhat, but the market sounds like more fun! I will definitely look at your suggestions.

Delaine, thanks for the gondola/reservation information. That sounds like the best way to pick a stop.

Peter, thanks for sharing that treasure hunt. I’ll print it out and pop it in our bag for emergency use, if I start to sense museum overload!

Sarge, I’ve bookmarked La Zucca, and we’ll check it out.

nytraveler, I admit to being a planner, but in the past we’ve wasted too much time/energy while actually on the trip trying to decide what to do. This way, we don’t have to think much, as it’s all done in advance. The nice thing is that we don’t have to do any of it if we don’t feel like it, other than the private tours. The tours needed to be booked ahead, since this is such a busy time. I actually had trouble finding people with availability. Thanks for taking the time to write your suggestion about letting them go off on their own. That would be a nice way for my husband and me to have a little time alone (if I can handle not worrying about them in a strange country where they don’t speak the language!)

Based on everyone’s input:
Murano is out! It wasn’t a particular interest of mine, I just wanted to go for the boat ride and the views of Venice from the water. Burano and Torcello sound much nicer—thanks for that suggestion!

San Giorgio Maggiore is in! I had never considered that.

A bike tour or renting bikes in Venice sounds like fun, and I’ll pursue that.

I’m adding Piazzale Michelangelo just before sunset; I’ve only been in the afternoon, and it was beautiful then!

Again, thank you to everyone!

bilboburgler

You cannot ride a bike within Venice itself (banned) but everywhere else around the lagoon you can and you can take bikes on many of the bigger boats. Loads of rental about with bike paths and bike lanes.

annhig

Burano and Torcello sound much nicer—thanks for that suggestion!>>

depending on which island you are on at lunch time, on Torcello i can highly recommend the Trattoria Attila [it's along the path to the Basilica - you can't miss it]. we went in there on a foggy wet March lunchtime, and had a great meal in front of a roaring fire, which was very reasonable. [we were charged about €4 for a mixed salad for example, which the day before had cost us over twice that in a place that was by no means as good]. I think that theye have a garden too.

on Burano there is more choice - several restaurants along the main street where you can sit in the sun [we'd done that just two days before we were on Torcello] and for once we broke our rule not to respond to the invitations of restauranteurs to patronise their establishments. we had a lovely meal and the patron was very willing to provide hamburgers etc for our kids [which actually they didn't want, preferring the more expensive baked fish we were having - kids!] can't remember its name but it was in the middle of the main street facing south with tables outside - which may not help you in identifying it!

I second [third?] the suggestion of climbing the campanile on San Giorgio; you can have a fun time getting as many vaporetti as possible - san marco to santa maria della salute, [only open until 12 noon i think] Zattere to the Guidecca, Guidecca to San Giorgio - you get the idea.

BTW - I think that you can only hire bikes on the lido - they aren't really compatible with canals!

cybertraveler

Hi Ann,

Thanks for the restaurant suggestions and advice. I think I will love Burano and Torcello! I've added in San Giorgio, and we'll put the vaporetto passes to very good use that day!

Carolyn

Delaine

There is a great "gourmet" food store and gelateria in Murano on the main street called Dai Freddi. It's very colorful, and you can't miss it. I had a gelato and bought some packaged items to take with me for later (I was leaving on a cruise later that day).

There is also a good restaurant there called Al Gatto Nero on Fondamenta Giudecca 88, across a canal behind (on the Venice side) of the main street.

cybertraveler

Delaine,

Murano sounds delicious--thanks for the tips!