Prague Trip Report
Oct 31st, 2011, 07:39 PM
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Prague Trip Report
After a long flight from the west coast, a 5 1/2 hour layover at Heathrow and one more short flight, DH and I arrived in Prague on October 13. We were glad to find the driver from Prague Airport Shuttle waiting to take us to the Hotel Unitas. We were able to check-in quickly, drop our bags and head out to find dinner. The Hotel Unitas is on a quiet and fairly unattractive street but there were many good restaurants just a block or two away. For our first night we had a very good dinner at Palatina at the Hotel Leonardo.
Our hotel room was quite large and the bed very comfortable. It had lots of storage, terry robes, and a nice bathroom. We found most of the staff spoke English and were very helpful.
We were happy to get a full 8 hours sleep and woke up not too jet-lagged. We enjoyed the hotel's buffet breakfast then walked to the Charles Bridge (Karlov Most). Great views of the city on both sides of the river. From the bridge we walked back to the east bank and the Stare Mesto or old city which is also where the hotel is located. We wandered through the small streets and discovered that whether large or small, the cobblestones are uneven and many were missing. Both the streets and sidewalks are cobbled so there is no escaping them. We saw the astronomical clock mark the hour along with dozens of other tourists (can't imagine what the crowds are like in summer).
When it came to meals we avoided TGI Fridays and Subway in favor of local restaurants. For lunch we ate at a large beer hall called U Vejvoju where most of the other diners were Czech speaking. Later in the afternoon we found the perfect spot for a rest and some "dezerty". Really, that's the Czech word for dessert. After more strolling we went back to the hotel for a rest then a bit of an early dinner and to bed early with jet lag starting to take its toll.
On our second morning after another good breakfast at the hotel we traveled by tram #22 to Prazsky hrad or Prague Castle. We saw it lit up above the Charles Bridge as we were driven to our hotel on Wednesday night and were looking forward to visiting. We first visited one of the gardens next to the former president's home. Some of the trees were turning and gardeners were planting flowers in bloom so it was very pretty. After that we bought our tickets choosing 4 major sites in the castle complex. We started with St. Vitus Cathedral which has some beautiful stained glass including some from the early 20th century by the Czech artist Alfons Mucha. Construction of the Cathedral was only completed in 1929. It was quite crowded with lots of tour groups in German, Spanish and Italian but we just waited while some of them went by. Individual tourists like us seemed much fewer.
After the cathedral we wandered through the castle area toward Golden Lane. This is a street of small houses that have served as shops and residences over the centuries. Kafka lived in one of them for a couple of years. Before we got there we came upon a couple of very nice gift shops filled with crystal and Czech handcrafts. We spent some time checking out possible gifts and then it was time for lunch. A little place at the start of Golden Lane offered hot pannini and tea which was perfect on this cold day. Exploring Golden Lane we bought a tiny plate for the kitchen wall to go along with others collected over the years from Italy, France and Las Vegas.
Our castle ticket was good for two days so we decided to come back the next day and wandered down the hill back to the Charles Bridge. We passed a vineyard, the Belgian and Polish embassies, and many elegant buildings. Starting to feel cold and needing a rest we spotted a Starbucks on Malostranske square. I had a hot chocolate and DH a coffee with lots of cream which is not usually served with coffee here. From here it was an easy stroll to the Charles bridge with stops to admire the beautiful garnet and amber jewelry.
Strolling through the Stare Mesto, our neighborhood, we passed many tempting restaurants as we made our way back to our hotel. After resting a bit we decided to have dinner at Restaurant Rainer Maria Rilke. It had not occurred to us that we might need reservations and we were fortunate to get the last table. The waiter was great and the food very good. DH had chicken stuffed with salmon but I went for straight salmon from Norway. We had passed a placed called Choco Cafe earlier in the afternoon but now we were too full. So back to the Hotel Unitas to blog and plan our day for tomorrow.
This day started late. Apparently jet lag had not finished messing with us. The weather report promised cold and clear, so we wore heavier coats than yesterday when we wished we had them. We took the tram back to the castle since we had 2-day tickets. We came in from a different tram stop and this entrance looked a little like a mini-Versailles. People were already lined up for the changing of the guard which we decided to skip. We noticed the military guards had handsome uniforms and that some who were probably not working the ceremony had big knives on their belts. DH wondered if they actually got training in knife combat, or had once appeared in a production of West Side Story.
Inside the gates, we visited St. George's chapel and the old palace but everything was so crowded on a Saturday that it was difficult to see much. Fortunately one of the main sights was an arched ceiling in the palace so it could be viewed over the crowds. We noticed that as the castle was built over the years newer buildings were put up quite close to the cathedral and other buildings in the castle complex.
We also made a trip back to the castle gift shop where we had done some window shopping the day before. We bought some beautiful Preciosa crystal jewelry for gifts.
We took a little different route down from the castle so we could visit the area between the castle and the Charles Bridge. Enjoyed a tasty late lunch at the Restaurant Pod Vezi and DH finally had his first Czech beer. DH had roast duck and I had a sandwich and a salad with really good balsamic. Would have bought a bottle of that if we could. We also indulged in our first strudel which was very good. The service was also good here.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent window shopping and photographing the beautiful sights of the city, which included Hare Krishnas marching, some poor fool being given a bird's-eye-view of the city from a one-seater balloon tethered 200 feet in the air, and several shops selling absinthe.
Our hotel room was quite large and the bed very comfortable. It had lots of storage, terry robes, and a nice bathroom. We found most of the staff spoke English and were very helpful.
We were happy to get a full 8 hours sleep and woke up not too jet-lagged. We enjoyed the hotel's buffet breakfast then walked to the Charles Bridge (Karlov Most). Great views of the city on both sides of the river. From the bridge we walked back to the east bank and the Stare Mesto or old city which is also where the hotel is located. We wandered through the small streets and discovered that whether large or small, the cobblestones are uneven and many were missing. Both the streets and sidewalks are cobbled so there is no escaping them. We saw the astronomical clock mark the hour along with dozens of other tourists (can't imagine what the crowds are like in summer).
When it came to meals we avoided TGI Fridays and Subway in favor of local restaurants. For lunch we ate at a large beer hall called U Vejvoju where most of the other diners were Czech speaking. Later in the afternoon we found the perfect spot for a rest and some "dezerty". Really, that's the Czech word for dessert. After more strolling we went back to the hotel for a rest then a bit of an early dinner and to bed early with jet lag starting to take its toll.
On our second morning after another good breakfast at the hotel we traveled by tram #22 to Prazsky hrad or Prague Castle. We saw it lit up above the Charles Bridge as we were driven to our hotel on Wednesday night and were looking forward to visiting. We first visited one of the gardens next to the former president's home. Some of the trees were turning and gardeners were planting flowers in bloom so it was very pretty. After that we bought our tickets choosing 4 major sites in the castle complex. We started with St. Vitus Cathedral which has some beautiful stained glass including some from the early 20th century by the Czech artist Alfons Mucha. Construction of the Cathedral was only completed in 1929. It was quite crowded with lots of tour groups in German, Spanish and Italian but we just waited while some of them went by. Individual tourists like us seemed much fewer.
After the cathedral we wandered through the castle area toward Golden Lane. This is a street of small houses that have served as shops and residences over the centuries. Kafka lived in one of them for a couple of years. Before we got there we came upon a couple of very nice gift shops filled with crystal and Czech handcrafts. We spent some time checking out possible gifts and then it was time for lunch. A little place at the start of Golden Lane offered hot pannini and tea which was perfect on this cold day. Exploring Golden Lane we bought a tiny plate for the kitchen wall to go along with others collected over the years from Italy, France and Las Vegas.
Our castle ticket was good for two days so we decided to come back the next day and wandered down the hill back to the Charles Bridge. We passed a vineyard, the Belgian and Polish embassies, and many elegant buildings. Starting to feel cold and needing a rest we spotted a Starbucks on Malostranske square. I had a hot chocolate and DH a coffee with lots of cream which is not usually served with coffee here. From here it was an easy stroll to the Charles bridge with stops to admire the beautiful garnet and amber jewelry.
Strolling through the Stare Mesto, our neighborhood, we passed many tempting restaurants as we made our way back to our hotel. After resting a bit we decided to have dinner at Restaurant Rainer Maria Rilke. It had not occurred to us that we might need reservations and we were fortunate to get the last table. The waiter was great and the food very good. DH had chicken stuffed with salmon but I went for straight salmon from Norway. We had passed a placed called Choco Cafe earlier in the afternoon but now we were too full. So back to the Hotel Unitas to blog and plan our day for tomorrow.
This day started late. Apparently jet lag had not finished messing with us. The weather report promised cold and clear, so we wore heavier coats than yesterday when we wished we had them. We took the tram back to the castle since we had 2-day tickets. We came in from a different tram stop and this entrance looked a little like a mini-Versailles. People were already lined up for the changing of the guard which we decided to skip. We noticed the military guards had handsome uniforms and that some who were probably not working the ceremony had big knives on their belts. DH wondered if they actually got training in knife combat, or had once appeared in a production of West Side Story.
Inside the gates, we visited St. George's chapel and the old palace but everything was so crowded on a Saturday that it was difficult to see much. Fortunately one of the main sights was an arched ceiling in the palace so it could be viewed over the crowds. We noticed that as the castle was built over the years newer buildings were put up quite close to the cathedral and other buildings in the castle complex.
We also made a trip back to the castle gift shop where we had done some window shopping the day before. We bought some beautiful Preciosa crystal jewelry for gifts.
We took a little different route down from the castle so we could visit the area between the castle and the Charles Bridge. Enjoyed a tasty late lunch at the Restaurant Pod Vezi and DH finally had his first Czech beer. DH had roast duck and I had a sandwich and a salad with really good balsamic. Would have bought a bottle of that if we could. We also indulged in our first strudel which was very good. The service was also good here.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent window shopping and photographing the beautiful sights of the city, which included Hare Krishnas marching, some poor fool being given a bird's-eye-view of the city from a one-seater balloon tethered 200 feet in the air, and several shops selling absinthe.
Nov 1st, 2011, 10:01 AM
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Thanks for the report. We were just in Prague in August, so it was great to "revisit" with your report. DH wanted to go on that balloon thing. Yeah, sure.
I was getting worried reading your report though - lots of time passed and I didn't read anything about the BEER
But you were redeemed. Our trip to Prague was part of a beer pilgrimage trip.
I was getting worried reading your report though - lots of time passed and I didn't read anything about the BEER
But you were redeemed. Our trip to Prague was part of a beer pilgrimage trip.
Nov 1st, 2011, 08:48 PM
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Lazy Sunday
We had planned to visit the Jewish sights on Sunday but after the hordes at the castle on Saturday, I couldn't face crushing crowds like that. So Monday Jewish history in Prague, Sunday we just walked in the Old Town. We headed up the pedestrian Rytirska along with Praguers and tourists but now there were more locals around than on other days. We turned southeast and walked up Vaclavske namesti, Wenceslas Square, where the people turned out for the velvet revolution more than 20 years ago. From there back on the pedestrian street we came upon one of the Paul cafes, a French chain. They sell sandwiches and bakery treats so we had lunch and a sweet. DH had a rhubarb tart and I a macaron. Not as good as real French macarons so should have waited until next week. The tea was just right however.
We continued to the art deco Municipal House and while there bought tickets for a classical concert that evening. The building is beautiful and the concert is just over an hour long so should suit us just right.
We walked back toward our hotel on other picturesque streets. Saw the beautiful art deco Hotel Pariz and a gorgeous toy shop. Prague seems to be street after street of beautiful buidings in the Old Town. With only one day left we will try to squeeze a lot in. We could have used one more day for a trip outside of Prague to Pilzen or Karlstejn Castle.
On our last day in Prague we spent the morning touring the Josefov area, the historic Jewish community. Jews in Prague have endured everything from harsh repression to genocidal violence in Europe over the centuries, and yet still survive today.
A self-guided tour comprises several sites, including synagogues, an ancient graveyard, and preserved examples of beautiful art, documents and craftsmanship. Also indluded is a memorial for Jews in Prague who perished in the Holocaust. It's well worth the time, and both visually and historically impressive.
***
On a lighter note, we made our way to places where food and drink was served. The best lured us in with cookies, which has been known to work 100% of the time. Au Gourmand was like most places we like - simple and clean. We had "croques", which is French (in Prague still) for Le Grilled Cheese Sandwich. But the cookies were really good, and so we gave it two thumbs up.
Also on the menu was a drink at a neat little boat-hotel ("botel") on the river, where for very little money we enjoyed the riverside ambience and a little rest. The botel is located on the riverbank below the "Dancing building" a fun bit of architecture that was built in the 1990s. November_moon will be relieved to know that a beer was enjoyed here by DH while I had a superb hot chocolate.
Finally, a visit to the Church of St. Nicholas was a highlight. It's a small church on the old main square, but very tall, and filled with grand decoration (baroque?) including a huge crystal chandelier that was overwhelming for it's size. As with most of these type of sites, a few quiet minutes is all we needed.
Some other activities and a nice dinner later and it was time to pack for our flight to Paris the next day. We slept well and were banging on the door to breakfast until they opened at 7am. We were ready early and that made the journey less stressful on me (I really hate to fly). Prague Airport Shuttle was right on time and we were ready for our flight. Unfortunately SmartWings was not quite ready for us and our flight was delayed an hour. We had a light lunch in the airport and finally were on our way to Paris.
We had planned to visit the Jewish sights on Sunday but after the hordes at the castle on Saturday, I couldn't face crushing crowds like that. So Monday Jewish history in Prague, Sunday we just walked in the Old Town. We headed up the pedestrian Rytirska along with Praguers and tourists but now there were more locals around than on other days. We turned southeast and walked up Vaclavske namesti, Wenceslas Square, where the people turned out for the velvet revolution more than 20 years ago. From there back on the pedestrian street we came upon one of the Paul cafes, a French chain. They sell sandwiches and bakery treats so we had lunch and a sweet. DH had a rhubarb tart and I a macaron. Not as good as real French macarons so should have waited until next week. The tea was just right however.
We continued to the art deco Municipal House and while there bought tickets for a classical concert that evening. The building is beautiful and the concert is just over an hour long so should suit us just right.
We walked back toward our hotel on other picturesque streets. Saw the beautiful art deco Hotel Pariz and a gorgeous toy shop. Prague seems to be street after street of beautiful buidings in the Old Town. With only one day left we will try to squeeze a lot in. We could have used one more day for a trip outside of Prague to Pilzen or Karlstejn Castle.
On our last day in Prague we spent the morning touring the Josefov area, the historic Jewish community. Jews in Prague have endured everything from harsh repression to genocidal violence in Europe over the centuries, and yet still survive today.
A self-guided tour comprises several sites, including synagogues, an ancient graveyard, and preserved examples of beautiful art, documents and craftsmanship. Also indluded is a memorial for Jews in Prague who perished in the Holocaust. It's well worth the time, and both visually and historically impressive.
***
On a lighter note, we made our way to places where food and drink was served. The best lured us in with cookies, which has been known to work 100% of the time. Au Gourmand was like most places we like - simple and clean. We had "croques", which is French (in Prague still) for Le Grilled Cheese Sandwich. But the cookies were really good, and so we gave it two thumbs up.
Also on the menu was a drink at a neat little boat-hotel ("botel") on the river, where for very little money we enjoyed the riverside ambience and a little rest. The botel is located on the riverbank below the "Dancing building" a fun bit of architecture that was built in the 1990s. November_moon will be relieved to know that a beer was enjoyed here by DH while I had a superb hot chocolate.
Finally, a visit to the Church of St. Nicholas was a highlight. It's a small church on the old main square, but very tall, and filled with grand decoration (baroque?) including a huge crystal chandelier that was overwhelming for it's size. As with most of these type of sites, a few quiet minutes is all we needed.
Some other activities and a nice dinner later and it was time to pack for our flight to Paris the next day. We slept well and were banging on the door to breakfast until they opened at 7am. We were ready early and that made the journey less stressful on me (I really hate to fly). Prague Airport Shuttle was right on time and we were ready for our flight. Unfortunately SmartWings was not quite ready for us and our flight was delayed an hour. We had a light lunch in the airport and finally were on our way to Paris.
Nov 8th, 2011, 01:27 PM
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I enjoyed reading your trip report about Prague. I've been there twice & love the city. Reading your report allowed me to re-visit my trips there.
Galiano, you will love both Prague & CK. Hope you write a trip report, too.
Galiano, you will love both Prague & CK. Hope you write a trip report, too.
Mar 4th, 2012, 11:02 AM
#12
Great report.
I was there in June for 5 days ,weather was in 80 's everyday.
It was nice following your adventure
I was there in June for 5 days ,weather was in 80 's everyday.
It was nice following your adventure
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