DD and I are in Prague for 10 days over Christmas. Instead of describing what we did / eat / see every day, I will mostly just give info of what worked for us. There are other Fodorites (for example, unclegus, percy and kwoo) that provide great detailed guidance.
Getting here: We came with Emirates. Compared to BA, we had (a little) more legroom, a bigger TV screen, wider choice of entertainment and better food. Nice flight.
Getting around: we use the metro a lot. It is efficient, clean, user friendly. I buy a single ticket every time. You can buy a day pass, but it is only worth it if you use the metro 5 times per day or more. You have to validate the ticket before you go down the escalators. Sometimes I forget - sometimes you have to look for the validation machines. After 3 days, I have yet to see an Inspector of Tickets.
ACCOMMODATION: After much soul searching, I joined a home exchange site. This time it is working really well for us. We stay in a lovely apartment not far from the centre of Prague, while the owners are using our apartment. DD and I each have our own room, as well as the comforts of home (espresso maker, washing machine ...). The apartment is four metro stops from Muzeum, so it is still within reach. But yes, we do spend more time on the metro.
We are in an area where you do not see tourists. We see housewives with bags queue in front of the butcher's shop (with a small dog in attendance); the supermarket is full of people going about their daily lives; in the evenings we seem like the only English speakers in the local pub.
CELL PHONES: We bought two 'packets' from Vodaphone for Kc200 each - enough to text and briefly phone each other for 10 days. They have a shop just off Wencenlas' Square. When your phone is activated, you have to type in a password to unlock it. We returned to the shop. The girl said: "But it is all explained in the pamphlet ...". She seemed not to realise that we do not read Czech!
CLOTHES: For me, the secret to staying warm is in the underwear
You can easily tell the locals from the tourists - tourists are those who look ready for an arctic expedition. Locals just wear a warm jacket, sometimes a scarf, some wear gloves, most wear woollen hats. Most women wear warm leggings / ski pants / tight fitting jeans, usually with a warm jacket and boots - it looks really good. On Christmas Day I saw several elegant women in long (fake??) fur coats at Vysehrad.
More to follow later ...
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