marshacarlin

Our son is getting married in northern Portugal (near Chaves) August 20 and we and about 12 friends are arriving in Lisbon on August 15 for a couple of days before working our way north. Hoping for suggestions for places for 2 good dinner. (not necessarily fancy, but good food and atomosphere) We're staying near Rossio station but could go anywhere for a great experience. We'd also like to find out what interiesting concerts/cultural events might be happening on the 15th and 16th and don't know where to start. We'd like to see some fado but have been warned not to go to touristy places. I've tried to read through the Lisbon thread but find it a little overwhelming so I thought I'd ask a direct question. Hope Matt et al will respond.
Thanks for any help suggestions.

chicagolori

Marsha - in case you weren't aware, there is a "superthread" here in three parts entitled "Things to Do in and Around Lisbon". There are fodorites living in Lisbon and others who have traveled there who can offer all types of wisdom.

If you search on that title or just look under the Portugal threads, you will find them. Good luck.

chicagolori

Oh i am sorry - i just realized you did read through the thread and didnt get what you needed.

Nevermind. Ignore me!!!!!!

lobo_mau

I understand the "things to do..." is a little overwhelming, but if you write "the lisbon dining club" in the search box, you'll be directed just to a thread with this name. You will find there a couple of options.

marshacarlin

Lobo, I will do as suggested but I'd really like a suggestion or name of one of the restaurants you guys seem to go to where the singing is more informal than a "show." Any suggestions or do you have to be you guys to get the owner to arrange for that? Alsio where can I find a source for concerts, etc. I just found out that aug 15 is a National Holiday. How will that affect museums, getting money when we get in that morning, etc.

marshacarlin

I did find the LDC thread to be helpful and easier to go throught than the "things to do" thread. thanks.

So what do you guys think: Adega das Gravatas for the food or Pátio da Memórias for the music. We have 2 nights so one night at each? Are these places we could find without you guys to help? we'll be arriving in Lisbon morning of the 15th (a holiday I just learned--how might tht affect our experience in Lisbon?)andwill do tourist things all day. Back to our hotel in Rossio area so would we take metro or taxi. Also, should we have a reservation for 11 people or just show up before 8:00? Mid week in August is Lisbon busy or deserted? My son's fiancee speaks Portuguese so she could make the reservations or do they speak English there (She won't be with us). Thanks for any help, we really want to show those who are coming from all over the world a good time.

Nikki

Just back from Lisbon this week, and I had the great pleasure of attending a dinner organized by Lobo and Matt at the Patio da Memoria. I believe that in order to arrange for a fado performance you need a group of people and must arrange in advance with the restaurant, which Lobo did for us. The telephone number in Lisbon is 21 364 44 51.

This was as far from a touristy experience as you could get. The night we were there, there were two large parties in the restaurant. We were one of them. After dinner the people at the other table got up and played instruments and sang for us. I felt like royalty.

At the end of the evening, the proprietor came out in his apron and joined in the singing. And for a finale, all the singers got up and joined in a rousing chorus of, "Smells good, smells like Lisbon," or so Lobo tells us.

The food was undeniably adventurous and Portuguese, but I know that Lobo had some qualms about the quality of the bread stew. Having nothing to compare it to, I was happy to go diving through the bread for the shrimp, as I was instructed to do.

As far as finding the place, it is in Belem, at Calcada da Memoria, 57-A. I would hope a taxi should be able to get you there.

As opposed to the Adega das Gravatas, where we also dined one night. We got in a taxi and the driver had no idea where the street was. He kept pulling up to other cab drivers he knew and asking them where to go; finally one of them led us to the restaurant.

I would not let that stop you from visiting this restaurant, however. It was fantastic. Great fish and meat on the grill; one of our party even ordered a steak on a stone, not knowing what to expect, and found that the steak came raw on a very hot stone that you cook it on yourself.

The table was set with a fabulous array of prawns, fava beans, bread, cheese, olives, and octopus salad. I ordered the pork dish plumas de porco preto, which is apparently translated (but not on the menu, which is entirely in Portuguese)as secrets of the black pig, and it was wonderful.

I would definitely call to reserve a table since you have a large group. The phone number in Lisbon is 21 714 36 22. The address is Travessa do Pregoeiro, 15, Carnide.

For pictures of both the fado at Patio da Memoria and of the appetizers at Adega das Gravatas, take a look at my Portugal pictures:

http://tinyurl.com/j25o3

And for further descriptions of our time in Lisbon, with any luck they will be included in my trip report shortly, which is found at:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34841123

lobo_mau

Nikki said it all. The only note I wish to add is the convenience of contacting Pateo as soon as possible. As far as Adega is concerned, 2 or 3 days in advance is enough.
Tomorrow I'll think about some cultural activities.

marshacarlin

Thank you, thank you, thank you! You guys are the BEST! I'll have my son's fiancee call this week. Lobo, do you think they would arrange for the fado music if I told them about this being a wedding group (not the bride and groom but mother, father, friends and cousins) who are on their way to Vidago in the North? Any advice, Lobo, how to make this happen wold be great. will be greatly appreciated.

marshacarlin

Nikki, your photos are wonderful and your report inspiring. We will be in Portugl from August 15-29 and I'm very concerned about the HEAT as well. I"m planning on loose, light-weight skirts and tank tops with a cover up, but my poor husband feels like he can't wear shorts and thinks he's going to wilt. What were men wearing in Lisbon? We're hoping it will be much cooler in the mountains for the wedding, but ugh, Porto, Evora and Lisbon might be a challenge to get out of the AC.
I hate heat. Right now we're in the mountains of New Hampshire and on the shores of a lake so I think it will be a rude awakening. anyway, thanks for sharing.

Nikki

The heat in Lisbon was actually the least oppressive that we encountered on our trip. It did cool off nicely in the evenings, probably because of the ocean breeze, and it was pleasant enough in the mornings before it heated up. I'm guessing it will be better the end of August anyway.

What were men wearing in Lisbon? For a look at Lobo's outfit, I refer you to the picture captioned "Lisbon Dining Club" in my Lisbon photos cited earlier. He's the guy on the far right in the blue shirt.

lobo_mau

Jaime is in the business to serve clients, and I'm sure he will be glad to arrange you a pleasant evening. The requirements he has done in past is that there is a minimum of 10 ppl. Páteo has a regular fado performances at the 1st Friday at each month. Outside these events, he will call his friends, whenever a large group has a reservation ans asks for a fado experience.
If you liked Nikki's description, tell your son's fiancee to say to Jaime that you have seen in the Internet the evening he put together on 18th July and you'd like to have the same. This way this spares her a lot of discussion.
I'd like to call your attention to one detail. Pateo da Memoria is a family run restaurant, runing on very low profit margins. If Jaime commits to his friends and by some reason nobody shows up, there will be some finantial loss for him. Last time we were there Jaime called me 3 days in advance just to be reassured we haven't changed our minds.
You have 2 options. Fixed price (previously agreed menu) and "á la carte". All included fixed price is what we experienced with Matt, Nikki, Isabel and friends. Usually only white drinks (whiskies, brandies, etc) are left apart from the concept of "all included". For a group of 12 consider as a budget, a price of 30 euros/person. "Á la carte" means you ask when you arrive and pay according to the menu list.
Is your son's fiancee Portuguese?
If you thing this post is confusing (I think so) feel free to email me [email protected]

lobo_mau

I forgot to say that the previous LDCs at Pateo da Memoria ended by midnight, but when a group stays there after midnight, Jaime sets up the place for karaoke, between midnight and 2:30 am. It has a large selection of karaoke music, including Portuguese, Spanish, Brazilien, French, English and American hits.

marshacarlin

Thanks so much again, It's the details that really help. Yes, his fiancee is American/Portuguese. She was born and lives in NYC, but parents return to family town (Vidago)every summer. Wedding is in Chaves in the north and the "kids" will already be up there when we arrive with friends in Lisboa. I would be happy to do a prearranged menu with Jaime. Do you think if the finacee calls from here and arranges for it and I give him our hotel contact he would be comfortable with that? We'll be 11 people. Thanks again for the specifics and any ideas about other activities in the evening (I can't find a calendar site to see if there is something special going on that we should get tickets for). In Porto, also, it looks like the Casa da Musica doesn't have anything going on in August. Is that because everyone leaves the city? We would never be traveling in the summer (spring and fall are my favorites) if it weren't for the wedding date which is Aug 20. Again I"m sure all of this info will make the stay great and special.
I'm going to showe my husband's Lobo's shorts so he can feel confident in baring his knees. Thanks.

lobo_mau

Chaves is lovely, you will love it.
I am sure Jaime feels confortable with reservations made by telephone. The only precaution I'd do would be to call once or twice between the 1st contact and the diner day just to confirm that everything is according to planned. This will give him the confidence that you have firm plans. Anyway don't postpone the 1st contact.

lobo_mau

Marshacarlin, I understand you are in town now. If you have access to Internet, I'd like to know if everything is ok and if you succeeded to book the fado dinner in Pateo da Memoria.