Portugal Trip Report

Hi bailey6325,
Isn't Portugal fabulous!
We are heading to Algarve in 3 weeks and looking forward to it immensly, however we have not yet been to Lisbon, but it looks great from your pics. Thanks for sharing.

Taxi drivers....grrrrrrrrrrrrr I dislike them immensly.

Muck

I'm looking forward to the rest of your report, sounds like you had a great trip. We are going in July, and will be in many of the same places, but I'll wait till after you post your report to ask questions. I am glad to hear your Continental flight from Newark was good as we will be on that flight too. Can't wait to see the photos.

I'm looking foward to reading your report!

P.S. Mucky, I also look forward to reading your report upon your return (we're heading to the Algarve in 5 weeks).

Good work Jen, look foward to reading all about it, though I already know most of what you guys got up to. Especially looking foward to all the photos and it was a good idea to document the hotel in such detail.

Take care and speak soon,

Matt

Here's the next section of my trip report that I've managed to finish... Please be sure to check out my link to the photos - I've added more.

Lisbon Activities:

Day 1: We were checked into our hotel by about 10 am. After taking short naps, we set off for Tram #28 to explore the Alfama. We began our tour at Sao Jorge Castelo and from there we spent the rest of the afternoon strolling through the twisted, cobblestone streets of the Alfama.

Day 2: We started off our day by strolling through the streets of the Baixa. After spending a couple of hours in the Baixa, we took a short cab ride to Belem. The Lisbon Dining Club was to meet tonight at Pateo da Memoria. Our meeting point was in Belem, so my husband and I decided to spend the afternoon touring the Monastery of Jeronimos, Belem Tower, and the Monument of the Discoveries. Of course, we also stopped by Casa Pasteis de Belem to sample some of their amazing pastries. We ended our evening with a fabulous dining and fado performance with the Lisbon Dining Club.

Day 3: Today, we took the train from Lisbon into Sintra for the day to explore the National Palace, Pena Palace, and the Moorish castle. Getting to Sintra was easy. We caught a cab from Rossio Square to the Sete Rios station, descended the stairs into the station and bought our train tickets at the green CP vending machine, and then caught the Sintra train from platform Linha 2 located upstairs in the station. The trip costs about 3 E roundtrip per person and took about 35 minutes.

The sights in Sintra really are beautiful. I really enjoyed walking through the palaces, which are beautifully maintained with very detailed descriptions and signs. I think it’s very important to visit Sintra during the week when crowds are at their minimum. We made the mistake of going on a Sunday and there were many tour groups and Bus #434 that takes you up to Pena Palace was very hot and crowded. Also, my husband and I really enjoyed walking down through the woods, on the rugged stone path, from the Moorish Castle rather than taking the bus back down. Some people may not like the 40-minute hike, but the path comes out at Rampa do Castelo, in a more “non-touristy” area of Sintra. We enjoyed that time away from the crowds.


Lisbon restaurants we enjoyed:

Pastelaria Suica: We stopped here numerous times for light breakfasts and lunches since it was located so close to our hotel. Here, you have the option of prepaying and eating at the counter, eating in their dining room, or eating outside on their patio alongside Rossio Square. We usually ate at the counter since these prices were much cheaper than eating outside or in their dining room (they had 3 menus depending on where you sat).

Bonjardim: This restaurant is located on the “eating lane” near our hotel and is one of the restaurants known for their roast chickens. They really were delicious and we enjoyed sitting at their outdoor tables (I think they also have different prices based where you sit – I think this was pretty typically at most restaurants).

Cervejaria da Trinidade: Later on in our trip, my husband and I ate here with Matt on our last evening in Portugal. Matt has a very detailed review of this restaurant in his LDC reviews, so I won’t talk too much about it other than that our meals were very good and that I really enjoyed the restaurant’s ambience and tiled decor. Of course, the best part of the dinner was the company!

More photos have been added to: http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com

Note: You do NOT have to sign up on shutterfly to view the album. I’ll continue to add photos as I update my report.

Thanks for posting this. I am embarking on a trip to Lisbon quite unexpectedly next month and am playing catch-up reading things to do. Hoping to enjoy some of the same fine company you did while I'm there.

Jen the photos are getting better - that image of the tram infront of Se Cathedral is such a typical image and the shot you have of Sintra's moorish castle really shows how alone on the rocks it is.

Enjoying the read,

Matt

Jen:

Very nice ! My wife and I will be in Portugal in Sept and your photos make me look forward to it even more !

Also looking forward to meeting with the LDC !!

Thanks for sharing this !
David

And so the trip report continues…

Day 4 – Pick up rental car and drive to Salema: Today, we left Lisbon and headed to Salema in the western Algarve. First, we took a cab to the airport to pick-up our rental car. Our rental car experience could not have gone any smoother – I have nothing but outstanding things to say about Carjet and Budget. I booked our rental car through www.carjet.com about a month or so before our trip. I reserved a PTS10 Opel Astra Automatic with A/C for 8 days at the price of 415 E including an additional driver and insurance excess buy-out. Carjet hooked us up with Budget and we received a very cute and comfortable Mercedes A150 hatchback that drove very well and had plenty of trunk space for our two 20-inch rolling suitcases and two backpacks. Budget gave the car to us with a full tank of gas and we were responsible for returning it to them with a full tank. The customer service we received at Budget was outstanding. The young lady at the desk, as well as the two young ladies on the car lot, went well above the call of duty in explaining our rental agreement and giving us directions to the Algarve.

Driving in Portugal: Before leaving for our trip, I was apprehensive about driving in Portugal due to some of the posts I have read. Based on our experience, which does not involve driving in the cities of Lisbon and Porto, we found that driving in Portugal was a breeze. Other than tailgating, we had no problems with other drivers. We also found the road conditions to be excellent. In order to navigate our way around Portugal, I used a combination of directions I printed from www.viamichelin.com, a Michelin map of Portugal, and road signs. I found that viamichelin was a great resource for estimating gas and toll costs and that nothing could replace the good, old-fashioned Michelin map for getting us from Point A to Point B. For the most part, we did not have any problems finding our way between the different towns.

Our trip, on the toll highway, from Lisbon to Salema took about 3.5 hours.

Salema Accommodations: Pension Mare
Website: http://www.algarve.co.uk/
Price: 65 E per night with private bath & continental breakfast

We enjoyed our two-night stay at Pension Mare. We chose to stay in a small room (#6) since it had a beautiful view of the ocean and beach. My husband and I really enjoyed the innkeepers and the B&B-like feel of Pension Mare.

Salema Activities:

We spent our first evening in Salema, on Day 4, relaxing and enjoying the beach environment. We took this time to unwind from all of the sightseeing we had done while in Lisbon and Sintra. Salema is nice because it’s not too touristy. It’s kind of shared between the local fishermen and the tourists.

On Day 5, we drove to Lagos, Sagres, Cape Sagres, and Cape St. Vincent. The cliffs along the beaches were spectacular.

Salema Dining:

Mira Mar: My husband and I had our favorite meal in Salema here on Day 5. My meal consisted of garlic prawns with peri peri and a garden salad while my husband had their pork cutlet served with a very good dipping sauce, a garden salad, and sautéed potatoes. Their food was excellent and I really enjoyed their location, right near the beach.

Atlantico: On Day 4, my husband and I ate our dinner here and tried their cataplana and grilled swordfish. Both entrees were very good. We also enjoyed their gelatos.

Carapau Frances: This restaurant is owned by a Greek/French couple and serves Greek and French food. Our pizzas that we ate here were very good.


Once again, more photos have been added to:http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com

Your photos are getting me really excited for our trip - we leave in just over 3 weeks. A question for you - now that you've been to Sintra are you glad you went by train rather than once you had the car? I just can't decide. We were planning on going on our last day with the car, before returning it in Lisbon. But if it's more of a hassel (and more expense?) to park a car than to take the train, we could always just drive past Sinta (we'll be coming from Obidos) to Lisbon half a day early and then do a day trip. What do you think?

Jen,

Your pictures are FABULOUS! We were at all the same places as you in Lisbon, but your pictures look like they belong in a travel magazine! I'm not even posting the remaining pictures I had planned to share--no need. I love looking at you photos, I feel like I'm back there in Portugal again.

Lyn

Thank you so much for the kind words regarding my photos. I really hope that my report and photos can be some help since I have received so much assistance on these boards for our trip.

Isabel: In our case, taking the train from Lisbon to Sintra worked out beautifully. But, if I were in your situation, I would be tempted and do as you originally plan and drive to Sintra since you will be passing by on your way to Lisbon. It would be different if Sintra was a large city where it was difficult to drive in and parking was expensive. Perhaps Matt and Lobo could give you info on driving to and parking in Sintra - maybe they have done it?

Salema looks great, I am in Carvoeiro in 3 weeks and will take a trip out west.

I am so looking forward to it and your pics have put me in the mood.

Thanks

Muck

WOW. Beautiful pictures!!! I see you did your homework, which is more than halfway to success.
Jenn and Greg, I think that your itinerary is a case study for anybody with 2 weeks available willing to get a 1st picture about Portugal in a cost effective way.
But don't forget you haven't seen it all, and we expect that you could return some day

I'm suddenly hungry for bacalao, even though I just ate lunch

bailey: what a great report, not sure I can follow that! I know I will have no photos. I have to have my husband look at that shutterfly. Thanks for sharing I know that is a lot of work but it takes us all there again!

We had no problems driving either but that tailgating is nervracking! Since my husband is the map reader, I did most of the driving including in Porto - we did not drive in Lisbon.

Isabel we drove into Sintra and found parking on the street fairly easily before we could find the hotel. We did stay over night so then could park at the hotel but left the car there and taxied to the sights. Walking and a bus are the other options but we felt pressed for time. With a car you could also go to Cabo Raso and the interesting drive, sights further out of Sintra.

This section covers Day 6 - pottery shopping in Redondo and sightseeing in Evora. Boy was the Alentejo goregous!


Day 6: Today, we woke up bright early and made our way from Salema to Evora, with a stop in Redondo for pottery. The drive from Salema to Redondo took about 3.5 hours and was one of the highlights of our trip. At this point, we were very happy that we had a rental car so that we could drive ourselves through the Alentejo and witness the beautiful sights and smells that the fields of grapevines, olive trees, and cork trees offered. The drives through the Alentejo and the Douro Valley (later on in our trip) were our most scenic drives. Also, driving past Evora to Redondo was a good opportunity to see some of the smaller villages and towns in the area. Lobo, you are right – our trip gave us a great taste of Portugal and when we get a chance to return, we plan to spend more time in the Alentejo.

Pottery Stop in Redondo: We didn’t have enough time to spend the entire day in Redondo, so we only made one pottery stop and that was at Olaria Pirraca since I had read good reviews about them on this board. In the end, I only purchased my pottery in 3 different stores/factories - Olaria Pirraca, Olaria Vale Coelho near Alcobaca, and a small gift shop in Coimbra. I am happy that I resisted buying pieces in Lisbon or other more touristy areas because I found the prices to be outstanding and the selection to be excellent at Olaria Pirraca and Olaria Vale Coelho (I noticed that the prices for the Coimbra pottery didn’t vary greatly between areas or sources – it was all pretty expensive). I’ll talk more about Olaria Vale Coelho, near Alcobaca, later on in my trip report – it turned out to be my favorite pottery stop.

Evora: It took us about 30 minutes to get to Evora from Redondo. We had no problems finding our hotel, Pensao Policarpo, since there were excellent signs posted throughout Evora for our hotel. Thank goodness! We found the cobblestone streets in Evora to be a maze.

Evora Accommodations: Pensao Policarpo
Website: http://www.pensaopolicarpo.com/
Price: 55 E per night w/ private bath and continental breakfast

Pensao Policarpo is a 16th century nobleman’s mansion and is filled with character and charm. It’s centrally located near the university and just steps away from all of the sights. Our room was very simple and basic.

Evora Activities: We spent our afternoon exploring the Roman Temple, Cathedral, Church of St. Francis and the Chapel of Bones, the main square, and the many shops throughout the town.

Evora Dining: We had an excellent dinner at Restaurante Cervejaria Fialho. We took Matt and Lobo’s advice – I had pork bits with clams and DH had secrets of the black pig. Both meals were delicious.


Once again, I’ve updated my photos:http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com

Bailey, I am really enjoying your trip report. I am one of those who recommended the pottery store in Redondo, and I look forward to your description of the shop near Alcobaca, which I do not know. And by the way, you're right the Coimbra pottery is expensive, but I found one factory store that seemed to have cheaper prices with the same high quality as many of the expensive stores in Coimbra. The place I went to was actually out of Coimbra, in Condeixa a Nova (about 12 km south?), where there is a nice pousada and some very interesting Roman ruins (Conimbriga). The name of the store is Nazari, and it is very close to pousada on the road that comes off the highway – as you leave the pousada, turn right, take your first right down the hill, turn right again, and it’s just a few hundred feet on the right side of the road past the traffic circle (phone is (351) 239-945-500). It has a website, too: http://www.nazari.pt
Thanks again for the report! LR

lreynold – that’s a great tip about the Coimbra pottery. I did find that the piece I bought in Coimbra was cheaper than if I had bought it in Lisbon, but it would have been nice to have found a store like the one you mentioned while I was there.


And here’s the next section of my report that covers Obidos…

Day 7: We chose to not take the toll highway from Evora to Obidos and we were rewarded with some of the great scenery we had seen the day before. Our drive took us about 3.5 hours.

Obidos Accommodations: Estalagem do Convento
Website: http:/www.estalagemdoconvento.com
Price: 100 E per night with private bath and continental; breakfast

I think Estalagem do Convento is quite a gem – it’s definitely my cup of tea. Estalagem do Convento was built in the 1800s as a nunnery and has been beautifully maintained over the years. I found the inn to be very charming while our room was very comfortable and spacious. The inn is also in a very good location – within walking distance to everything.

Obidos Activities: We spent most of our afternoon climbing the town wall and wandering around the charming cobblestone streets of this medieval village. We stopped at Church of St. Mary of Obidos to admire the beautifully tiled walls and also made sure to try some ginjinha in one of the many bars. Luckily, Obidos was not very crowded while we were there. It’s very popular with tour groups, but perhaps it helped that we were there on a Thursday instead of the weekend.

Obidos Dining: For dinner that night, we ate at the convent’s restaurant. We both had very good steak dinners that, oddly enough, were prepared by our maitre d’!! Our steaks were very good, but much, much rarer than we anticipated.


More photos can be found at http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com

"it’s definitely my cup of tea."

You'll be requiring a new moniker soon with sayings like that - Jen_from_England perhaps...

When you were in Evora did you see the S. Brás Chapel? I've come across some photos of it but very little information, just wondering if you saw it.

Re pottery - you said you bought stuff in both the shop in Redondo and one near Alcobaba. We'll be in both areas, so will check them both out. Did you think one was better than the other in terms of prices or selection. In other words, should I save some pottery buying money for when I get to Alcobaba or figure the one in Redondo is as good as its going to get?

Isabel - I don't think we saw S. Brás Chapel in Evora. As far as pottery goes, I definitely recommend saving money for Olaria Vale Coelho between Alcobaca and Batalha. It was my favorite pottery stop - their prices and selection were even better than Redondo. I still think you should also stop in Redondo - especially if you like pottery. One thing that Redondo had that Olaria Vale Coelho didn't is the pottery with the Alentejo people and landscape scenes.

This morning, I'll work on my next section of my report and it'll talk about Olaria Vale Coelho - I'll post photos so you can see some of their work.

Day 8: This morning, we made the short drive from Obidos to Nazare.

Nazare Accommodations: Mar Bravo
Website: http://www.marbravo.com/
Price: 100 E per night with view, bath, & continental breakfast

Our room at the Mar Bravo was very comfortable and had great views of the beach and Placa Sousa Oliveira. We had no problems with noise levels even though our room overlooked the many restaurants on the busy Placa Sousa Oliveira.

Nazare Activities: To be honest, Nazare pleasantly surprised us. We had read about how tourism has changed this fishing village and while it’s not a quiet, little village anymore, we still thought this town was very charming. Perhaps, if we had visited in the busy tourist season in July or August, we would have felt differently. I particularly enjoyed the Sitio, the small town overlooking Nazare, with its beautiful views of the bright, blue ocean. Our day in Nazare was also another opportunity for us to slow down and relax.

Nazare Dining: We had a delicious dinner of shellfish rice, salad, and vinho verde at Restaurante Adega Oceano Marisqueira. The restaurant is located on Avenida da Republica. We ate outside on their enclosed patio and had a great view of the sunset.


Day 9: Alcobaca, Pottery Stop, Batalha, and Fatima

We spent the day touring the beautiful sights found in Alcobaca, Batalha, and Fatima. All 3 towns are in close proximity to each other and driving between them was no problem.

During the drive between Alcobaca and Batalha, we stumbled upon a pottery factory called Olaria Vale Coelho (website is http://www.ovc.com.pt/). This place was filled floor to ceiling with pottery - I was in heaven! DH and I really enjoyed talking with the very friendly husband and wife that owned the place. We learned that they have been in business for quite some time, selling their pieces to stores, but just recently opened up their own store with factory prices. Later on in our trip, I found their pieces in many other stores that were 2 to 3 times more expensive than the prices in their factory store. For instance, a beautiful pitcher I bought in their store for about 15 E (about 12 inches tall and maybe 7-8 inches in it’s widest point) was priced at 37 E in a Lisbon gift shop.

At the end of our day, we made the short drive from Fatima to Coimbra and checked into our hotel by the early evening.

Coimbra Accommodations: Hotel Astoria
Website: http://www.almeidahotels.com/astoria_eng.htm
Price: 101 E per night with private bath and continental breakfast

I really liked the way lobby and other common areas in the Hotel Astoria were decorated, but I really didn’t care for our drab room. On a good note, our bathroom was very nice and newly renovated with a very large bathtub. Also, the front desk was extremely friendly and helpful.


I’ve added more photos to: http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com

Next up: Coimbra

Not sure what was wrong with me in my last reply. I meant go to Cabo da Roca from Sintra. Sorry.

bailey your report is wonderful. The photos are not only good photos, they capture the feel of it all. I am so upset I did not know about that pottery place. I ended up not buying anything because it was all just tourist stuff or way over priced in the places we were.

My report is way too long but I figure readers can skim or skip it. Yours says it all. Can't wait for the rest. Also can't wait to go back and see all we missed!

Thanks Barb! I think your report is going to be very helpful for those planning trips to Portugal.

Day 10: Coimbra

Activities: We spent our day walking around the old town section of Coimbra. We walked the Santa Clara Bridge, toured the old university, and meandered through Coimbra’s streets and squares. If we were to do it all over again, my husband and I would probably skip Coimbra and add that time to the Alentejo region. Many tourists really seem to like Coimbra, but it was our least favorite among the towns we visited – it just didn’t wow us like the others did.

Dining: While in Coimbra we found a very good Italian restaurant located in the Parque Dr. Manuel Braga. We liked eating there because the meals were inexpensive and very good, plus I really enjoyed sitting outside by the river.

Day 11: Douro Valley

This morning, we checked out of the Hotel Astoria and drove to the Douro Valley to spend the afternoon before heading off to Porto. We spent most of our time getting lost in the twisty, narrow roads in the Douro Valley in an area just east of Peso da Regua. The scenery was amazing! I’m glad that we had our own rental car, so that we could go at our own pace and really get immersed amongst the vineyards. It really was amazing to see endless fields of grapevines flanking both sides of the Douro River.

One of our most enjoyable meals on our trip was a lunch that we had in the Douro Valley in a small town we stumbled upon called Fontelo. We ate at a pastelaria where a very sweet, young lady waited on us. She spoke no English, but she was very patient and extremely friendly even though our Portuguese was so poor. For 5 E, we received 2 ham and cheese sandwiches on homemade rolls (so good!), a large coke, 2 bottled waters, 2 coffees, and a pastry. Just goes to show you that the small establishments really do have the best food for the best prices!

We finished up our afternoon in the Douro at Quinta da Marrocos, a small quinta located near Peso da Regua. After buying a couple of bottles of their port wine, we made our way to the Porto Airport to turn in our rental car. We caught a cab to Porto (with a very friendly driver!) and checked in at Hotel da Bolsa.

Porto Accommodations: Hotel da Bolsa
Website: http://www.hoteldabolsa.com/
Price: 95 E with view private bath, and continental breakfast
(82 E w/o view)

We really liked our room at the Hotel da Bolsa (I think it was room 604). In addition to having outstanding views of the city and river, the room was very large and comfortable. The extra money for the view was definitely worth it since the views were actually amazing and I also think that those rooms on the higher floors are larger. The front desk was also extremely friendly and helpful. Hotel da Bolsa is in an ideal location. With it being just a little over a block from the Ribeira, everything was within walking distance.

Days 12-13: Porto

Activities:

Day 12 – We started off our first day in Porto by walking up to the city center and seeing the Avenue of the Allies, Praca da Liberdade, City Hall, Clerigos Tower, Sao Bento Train Station (you can’t miss the beautiful tile-decorated entrance), the shopping district, and the market. I really enjoyed walking through the market – so many stalls with different products – the flowers were beautiful. Then, we walked down to the Ribeira and had lunch. Afterwards, we walked across the bridge and visited 2 wine cellars, Croft and Vasconcellos. Then, we walked back to the hotel to relax and freshen up before dinner in the Ribeira.

Day 13 - On our second day in Porto, we toured the Palacio da Bolsa (beautiful – a must see!), visited the Sao Francisco Church, and went on a Douro River cruise. In the afternoon, we took the tram to a neighborhood called Foz located on the Atlantic. It was a nice way to spend the spare time that we had, but I don’t think it’s a must-see. Afterwards, we went to Sao Bento to purchase our train tickets back to Lisbon for the next day. We could purchase our tickets from Sao Bento even though we would be departing from the Campanha Train Station which was located further from the city center.

Dining: One of our most favorite dining experiences of our whole trip was at Ora Viva Restaurant. It’s a small, family-owned restaurant located in the Ribeira about a block back from the waterfront. The family was so nice and kind to us and their picanha was out of this world! Their homemade desserts were also divine! We actually ate there again on our second night.

We also had a very good lunch at Filha da Mae Preta located on the waterfront in the Ribeira. We really enjoyed their codfish cakes and steaks with fried eggs. I also loved their tile-decorated second floor dining room overlooking the river.

More photos can be found at: http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com


Up Next: Last few days in Lisbon

Baily, thanks for the great trip report and pics. We leave in 2 days and reports like yours are a big help.

Sara - I'm glad that I can help. You will have a great time in Portugal!

The last portion of my report:

Day 14 and 15: Back in Lisbon

Our train ride back to Lisbon from Porto cost about 25 E pp and took about 3 hours. We got off at the Santa Apolonia station and took a cab back to Pensao Geres, where we had stayed for our first few nights. If I were to do this trip over again, I would book a fancy, more luxurious hotel at the end as a treat for us.

Activities:

Day 14 – We arrived back in Lisbon at about 1:30 pm. We checked into our hotel room, ate lunch, and caught a cab to Bairro Alto. We spent our afternoon walking around the Bairro Alto and Chiado. We went inside the Sao Roque Church and the Convento do Carmo. The convent ruins were particularly stunning against the bright, blue sky.

Day 15 – We felt lazy today, so we took a Lisbon tram tour and Tejo River Cruise. Our tram tour cost about 17 E pp and it was nice, but I don’t think I’d recommend it to anyone. We did it because we wanted to get a last glimpse of Lisbon without walking everywhere and it served that purpose, but I wouldn’t let it be my only tour of Lisbon. I think Tram 28 shows you more and is more fun!

The Tejo River Cruise was 20 E pp and I highly recommend it for the great views of Lisbon. It departs at 3 pm near Praca do Comercio, cruises up to the Vasco da Gama Bridge, turns around and cruises past the 25th of April Bridge to Belem, and returns to Praca do Comercio.

We spent our last evening with Matt, Lobo, and Gertrude in the Bairro Alto – what a great way to end an amazing trip! We really enjoyed seeing them again. They really found some fun places for us to hang out at.

I’m finally at the end of my report! Please let me know if you have questions.

Also, check out http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com for more photos.

Your pictures were wonderful. I especially liked the waterfront view of Ribeira. Now I must go back to read your trip report Deborah

I have not checked out your photos yet, but loved the report! We were in Portugal a few years ago and loved it. You brought back some great memories for me BTW, we also had dinner at Bonjardim one evening and it was nice. The waiter was very nice and was great with our kids. We found the people of Portugal to be so nice.

Thanks for the great report. Do you mind sharing some of the fun places you said you hung out in the Bairro Alto?

Jen,

Absolutely wonderful report and again fabulous pictures. I'm ready to pack my bags again! To see all the places we missed this time.

Jennifer, Jennifer, Jennifer- Your report and pictures are FABULOUS! I've been toying with the idea of Portugal for a few years now and your report, especially the pictures have sealed the deal for me. That's exactly where I will go this January with a few days in Paris. Of course I'll have to move into a bigger apartment before I go because I could just faint from the pottery! By the way your hotel in Obidos looked amazing. Thanks for the report, I'm off to find the Lisbon super threads.

Jen.
I have been so tempted to post a comment about your trip report, but I was determined to wait until it was complete.
First of all the pictures are fantastic.
Secondly, it is so organised and easy to read.
I am awe struck by the way you wrote your report.
I always skip around and never give such great details that you did. And they are so interesting.
Thanks.
Sherry

Thank you all. I received so much help right here on these boards for our Portugal trip that I wanted to make sure to come back and contribute in some way.

Nikki - On our last night, we had dinner at Cervejaria da Trinidade - location of the first LDC dinner. After dinner, Matt took us to a small jazz cafe nearby - I do not have the name or location, but I'm sure that's something Matt can tell you. We finished up the evening in the coolest lounge - I think it's called Pavilhao Chines Bar. Their business card says that they are located at Rua D. Pedro V, 89 - also in the Bairro Alto.

Hi Bailey! I haven't had a chance to read your entire report, but I have to comment on your pictures...they are fabulous!

The pictures of the pottery have me so very excited. I am now trying to figure out how I will cart some of those treasures home! Did you happen to price any of those colorful dishes?

Also, is an international drivers permit required in Portugal? We are getting conflicting information. Our rental car agency says "no", but some tourism websites say "yes".

Thanks for your help!

No Jen, stop giving away my secrets - I don't want to meet Rick Steves there!

Fabulous report and photos, you have provided a real spur for people planning to come here.

Thanks.

Matt

seetheworld - Unfortunately, I don't remember all of the prices I paid, but I do remember that the large sangria-like pitcher I bought was 15E (it's about 12 inches high and 7 inches at its widest point). Like I said in my report, I found that pitcher later in Lisbon for 37E. Some plates I bought in Redondo were about 6E each (7 inches in diameter). I wanna say that those large plates and bowls on display in my photos were priced on the order of 20E.

As far IDL goes, we didn't have one, but before we left I do remember reading that Portugal requires one. I got the impression that they are not strict like Italy, but go ahead and get one if you want to be on the safe side. I hear that they are easy to get and pretty cheap - about $15 maybe?

Matt - it's funny that you say that about Rick Steves. I actually thought that while I was typing the info about the lounge - envisioning the line of tourists out front

Matt, you don't really think Rick Steves is reading these posts, do you? Come on, tell the name of the little jazz cafe. Pretty please?

seetheworld: we did get IDPs - it is really just a permit. Costs $20 each including the photo. It is really just an insurance if you get stopped and they want to see it or don't like your US drivers license. We did not although there were a few check points we passed and no accident but I was glad we had them.

Jen: I think I just should put your link to your photos in my report! They are SO good. Thanks for sharing them.

To Jen and all who have been in Evora, there is a link to Evora photos last winter. A different perspective.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/83107364@N00/page9/ see also next page.

Nikki, you know the thing is with the Jazz Cafe I don't know its name: I hadn't been there in years and we wandered round for ages trying to find it - the only thing that identifies it is a single red lamp outside (not to be confused with a brothel) and the strains of old "Blue Note" type jazz coming from within. Just a doorway and a few steps down. Come with me and I'll take you...

Matt

Matt, I think is this one:
Restaurante Sinal Vermelho
89, Rua das Gaveas
Tel: 21343181
However the name says restaurant and not bar, I'm not sure.

tel 213431281

Matt, it's a date. Lobo, thanks for the details.

Bailey your report has convinced me to add Portugal to my short list of future trips. Thanks so much! Excellent report!

Here is a photo of the pottery I purchased for myself on our trip. The yellow and blue pitcher is the piece I talked about in my review that I purchased for 15E. The Coimbra piece with the rooster cost about 8E. All of the other pieces were in the range of 4E to 7E. All except the two stacked dishes in the back, left corner. The owners of Olaria Vale Coelho gave them to me for free as a thank you.

http://tinyurl.com/olgt7

Jen,
Your report and pictures are wonderful. I especially loved seeing the pottery you bought...well done! It was lovely meeting you and Greg at the LDC, and I know you will have many more wonderful travels.
Nancy & Meyer

Thanks Nancy. Greg and I really enjoyed yours and Meyer's company at the LDC - I'm glad that we were able to meet up. Also, I wanted to thank you for the Redondo map - it really came in handy. We would have been lost in Redondo for sure if we didn't have the map!

What a fanastic report and so helpful. Having travelled to Italy for holidays in recent years I was thinking about going to Portugal next year and this has really made me think that we definitely will.
However, how much could you see solely by using public transport, trains and buses? We live in Ireland and have never driven on mainland Europe as the idea of driving on the other side of the road freaks us out.

Bailey, thanks for posting the picture of your pottery!! I will have to muster up a great deal of restraint when I shop -- so many beautiful pieces. How did you manage to get them home in one piece? Did the shop owner wrap them in paper for you?

You're in luck Mairead05! Everywhere we went could have been reached by public transport (the only town I'm not sure about is Redondo). The only disadvantage to using public transportion (anywhere not just Portugal) is that you'll be on the train/bus schedule not on your own schedule. So, you may decide to not move around as much as we did. Good luck! Portugal is a wonderful destination. Let me know if you have any other questions.

seetheworld - the shop owners wrapped all of my pieces in paper and tape. That was sufficient while we were touring, then right before we came home I bought some bubble wrap and added that around each piece. We then packed them in our carry-ons and everything arrived home safely. I remember seeing at the shop in Redondo that they ship pottery home for you if needed - from the poster, it looks like they package it very well.

Bailey: Let me add my sincerest congrat. for a wonderfully detailed and certainly entertaining trip report. Ruth and I will be making a very similiar trip starting in Lisbon in late August to include an LDC on the 25th. Then North along the coast to Porto and eventually into Galicia, Austurias and will then head south finally landing in Estepona on the Costa del Sol. I have taken numerous notes from your report and know it will be a "Best Seller" thanks so much again, Bob

Hi,

This is my first post here at Fodors and since i'm living in Lisboa I was curious about what people feel about my town. I really enjoyed reading your posts e absolutely loved bailey's pics (I also lived in Évora for a few years and you captured it beautifully).
So i'm just writing to tell you about the jazz bar someone was asking about (i just couldn't help myself ) I think you may be talking about BARTIE'S. A lovely small and cosy jazz bar with a very friendly atmosphere and GREAT chicken toasts (make sure to try because it's soething special!).

Well since i'm going to Barcelona in September i'm going to continue my surch thereof.

Enjoy Portugal and come back always
Sappa

Oh my gosh Jennifer - you have complicated by life! I thought I had my short list pretty much decided for my next trips but NO!!!!!!!!! Now that I have read your report and seen your pictures, I have added Portugal.

See what you have done? Just kidding. I loved your report and your pictures.

Have a stupid question - in your accomodations, did they have regular showers (like the good old US) or only baths. I like the places you stayed but didn't see br pics and I am picky about having a shower to stand up in.

Thanks, Lori

I'm thrilled that all of you are enjoying my report and photos. I hope that you find them useful.

Lori - every single one of our accommodations had showers. Most of our bathrooms had just small shower stalls while some had bath tubs with shower heads.

Oh I'm definitely a BIG fan!

Sappa, I am the one who was interested in the jazz bar, and Matt gave me a different name, I don't remember right now what it was. But I'd be interested in the place you mentioned also, Bartie's. Do you have an address for it? Also, are you familiar with other places to go for music? I'll be in Lisbon in two weeks for a few nights and am interested in finding places to go.

Matt's suggestion is:
Catacumbas Jazz Bar, Travessa Agua Flor 43, Lisbon, 1200, PORTUGAL
As per Sappa's suggestion of Bartie's, I can't find it in yellow pages or google. My guess is that it is misspelled. I hope Sappa to see this message and add some more info.

Bailey....great report!

My wife and I were in Portugal last year for about a week, and we didn't get enough of it, so we are going back for 16 days in August. Your report will definitely help me out doing my itinerary. Do you feel that driving was the best way rather than taking the bus?

Watch out for these taxi meters. We were also overcharged by the driver taking us from the airport to Lisbon centre. Got muddled and couldnt concentrate on how much it was in GBP as he was being really friendly and chatty . Paid over 20 euros too much!
Lesson learned!

Hi Nokki and all Fodorites,

Lobo Mau was right. I did mispell the name of the bar.The correct name is Bartis.

Here are some of my favourite choices for a cool Lisbon night out:

BARTIS (BAIRRO ALTO)
Rua Diário de Noticias, 95
(Tiny mostly Jazz bar with great chicken toasts untill 2:00 am. It has no sign on the door but only a red light)

PÁGINAS TANTAS (BAIRRO ALTO)
Rua Diário de Noticias (?)
(A slightly bigger Jazz bar with a good wine selection and relaxed atmosphere)

ANIMATó GARFO (BAIRRO ALTO)
(Travessa da Laranjeira, 35 - close to Calçada do Combro and Miradouro do Adamastor)
This is my favourite bar lately. It's very, very small but great undergroung sounds (actually almost anything goes there) and they also have snacks for those late munchies (great soups and toasts). Ask for Rui (the owner).

(If you decide to go to ANIMATÓ GARFO you may want to make a stop at the really close by esplanade in Miradouro do Adamastor to get a beautifull view of Lisbon, the river and the other margin.The esplane service is nothing special but the view is worthwhile.)

TERTÚLIA (BAIRRO ALTO)
Rua Diário de Noticias, 60
(Also a Jazz bar with good drink list. very quiet. It has a piano and anyone can play).

HOT CLUBE DE PORTUGAL (just off BAIRRO ALTO)
Praça da Alegria (go by Metro and get off in Avenida Station and walk there for about 3 minutes)
(This is probably the first jazz bar in Lisbon. It started out as an Association for jazz musicians and funny anough my grand-father was associate nº 02! This is a really special place where you can listen to live music and improvs almost every night. I once took a South African friend who is a Sax player and he played there for a big part of the night. You will have to pay a small fee at the entrance - maybe 2 ou 3 euros - but the experience is great. Don't be put off by the fact that it is small and dark. it just adds to its charm)

INSTITUTO DO VINHO DO PORTO (BAIRRO ALTO)
Rua São Pedro de Alcântara (take the funicular ELEVADOR DA GLÓRIA and just cross the street)
This is also a special place. It's a bar that represents every Port wine Producer in Portugal and you can experiment EVERY port wine that is made in this country for very cheap. It's a beautifull place to go to after dinner and a great way to start off your party night. Also a clever way to really get to know Port wine without having to go to Porto.

CHAPITÔ (ALFAMA)
Rua Costa do Castelo
Make some time to go to ALFAMA (old quarter near the castle) to visit the castle of São Jorge. And then try CHAPITÔ. You can go for dinner or just drinks. Great views and atmosphere. This place is also a school for circus arts so you will find lots of very interesting people.

SPEAKEASY (www.speakeasy-bar.com)
Cais das Oficinas - Rocha Conde Óbidos
Another jazzy bar with restaurant (a little on the expensive side) by the river. Good food and sometimes live music.

DISCOS:

FRÁGIL (BAIRRO ALTO)
Rua da Atalaia, 126/8
If you like to dance then you must definately meet FRÁGIL - the first disco in Lisbon with almost 20 years and still going. It's very small but the music is garanteed to be good. May be a little dificult to get in but try anyway - still today I don't understand their admitance policy...)

LUX-FRÁGIL (www.luxfragil.com)
Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Armazém A
This is, probably, the BEST disco in portugal and definately a place to meet. It's owned by the same guys from FRAGIL and also by the actor John Malkovitch (who apparently loves Lisbon). It's a huge place with 3 floors: bottom floor is a full blow disco with dance music, intermediate floor is a chill-out zone with relaxing music and big couches, and top floor is just a big open space on the roof with no music and no lights - just the beautifull viwes of Lisbon and the river. A real special place! It may be a little tricky to get there so it'll be wise to take a taxi.

Well this list is already a bit long and still I only scraped the surface. Lisbon night has much much more to offer so if you have any more questions just feel free to ask.

Hug
Sappa

Hi again Nikki,

I forgot to send you this adress for a map of the BAIRRO ALTO:

http://viajar.clix.pt/pt/dst3200.php?mc=lxbalto&mg=1&lg=pt

It's very easy to get lost inside there but don't worry... even we do! Just ask for directions, portuguese people are usually quite friendly and happy to help.
Sappa

Sappa and CSandoval, check the LDC calendar in the other thread (Things to do...)

Hi Lobo Mau,

Stil a bit green in this fodors thing. What's LDC and how do i get to that thread?

Sappa

Ok found it! (not so green anymore )

Sappa

Sappa, thanks so much for the great list. Really looking forward to checking these places out if I can convince my travel companions.

Lobo Mau

Found the thread to the LDC. Is it the Lisbon Dinner Club? how does it work?

Sappa

dear Sappa, I answer in the other thread.

csandoval - To answer your question about driving versus taking the bus:

We originally were going to take the bus rather than renting a car since the guidebooks say that the bus system is very good in Portugal. In the end, we decided on having our own car since we would be moving around so much. It worked out very well for us and we're glad that we did it that way. We enjoyed the freedom of having our own schedule - getting an early start if we knew our day ahead was a busy one, taking scenic routes instead of the highways, and stopping at an unplanned stop if we saw something we liked (that's how we stumbled on the pottery shop). So, I highly recommend renting a car if your itinerary involves visiting many towns and cities. If you're only visiting a few destinations, then buses/trains may be fine for you. For instance, if you're staying mainly in Lisbon and taking day trips from there, then I would look into trains/buses rather than parking a car in Lisbon. We took the train to Sintra from Lisbon early in our trip when we didn't have a rental car and it worked out wonderfully. Also, our train ride from Porto to Lisbon went smoothly.

Bailey,

Thank you. I actually made my car rental reservation thru the same agency at the airport.

Looking forward to my trip in August.

Thanks again,

Bailey - I was just re-reading your post about the river cruise. You said it departs at 3pm from Praca do Comercio. Is it just the one time each day? Do you remember the name of the company? If we just go down there a little before 3 some day will we find it? It sounds like exactly the cruise I'd want to take so I don't want to get the wrong one. I know a lot of ciites have numerous companies running sightseeing cruises. Thanks

csandoval - If your experience with Budget is like ours, you'll be very happy with them.

isabel - My ticket stubs from our river cruise actually don't have the company name on them, but I think they may be the only company that does Tejo River cruises. They left from the Terreiro do Paco dock, off of the Praca do Comercio - we didn't see any other companies at that dock. If you are standing in Praca do Comercio, facing the river, then the dock is to the left. Look for signs that say "Cruzeiros No Tejo". We had heard that they have cruises at 11 am and 3 pm each day, but when we were there, they were only going at 3 pm each day.

Thanks bailey

Bailey, quick question on the rental car. I've booked it thru Car Jet, however, it doesn't say if the rental is with unlimited mileage (kilometers). Do you know if this was the case with yours?


Also, I just booked my hotel room at Pensao Geres. It seems to be in a great centralized location. Last time I was in Lisbon, I stayed at the Marriott using my points. Marriott is a great hotel, but a bit out of the beaten path.

C

csandoval.
Look in the fine print. You do get unlimited km with the rental.
You realize there is an excess that you are responsible for if you damage the car unless you pay for the extra insurance.

yeah...I didn't see anything in the inprint. I did noticed about 750 euro in excess though

csandoval - my rental was with unlimited mileage. After I booked it online, one of the first emails I received from them was entitled "Car Hire Quote for [Confirmation #]". Under "What's Included" in that email, it says that unlimited mileage is included. I don't see anything mentioned in the voucher, but I brought the Quote with me along with the voucher just in case I needed it. I didn't have any problems - the clerk at the desk did a very thorough job of explaining to me what's included (unlimited mileage was mentioned).

I went ahead and purchased the insurance buy-out because I didn't want to be responsible for the insurance excess. For our car, I think it cost about $8/day.

csandoval - I think you'll be happy with Pensao Geres as long as you realize that it's budget accommodations. It's nothing like the Marriott. Geres is very clean, safe, and in a very central location. But, keep in mind that the rooms are small, there's no in-room safe, street noise is loud (bring ear plugs!), and there's no air conditioning. I was very happy with our stay at Geres, so don't think I didn't like it. I just don't want you to be disappointed - I want you to know what to expect.

Thanks Bailey....I totally understand. I'm traveling low budget anyway, so this is only a place to sleep during our last few days in Portugal, and before we head to Amsterdam.


Thanks again for your recommendations, looking forward for some pottery shopping. Last time I was in Portugal and Spain (last year), my wife and I ended up buying "azulejos" for our backsplash....boy we ended up carrying ourselves in our backpacks, as the shipping was going to cost us an arm and leg.

Thanks again!

C

Good, then it sounds like Geres is a good match.

It sounds like you're a bit like me when it comes to pottery. I would LOVE to have azulejos for my backsplash. I can't believe you carried them home with you! I'll have to tell my husband - he thinks we carried a lot of pottery home!

Good luck with your travel plans and let me know if you have any more questions.

Jen

Jen,
I don't know if you're still following this thread, but if you are, where did you pick up your rental car- in Lisbon proper, or at the airport? We will be following in your steps from Lisbon to Salema.
Thanks,
Leslie

I was not asked, but I vote airport.

i was not asked either but I also vote airport.

Thank you. Any and all votes will be welcomed. Does this mean I have to drive back through the city to head to Salema? That was my only real concern,

Wrong!!! picking to the airport means you don't need to drive through the city. From the airport it's a quick drive to Vasco da Gama bridge, and from there it's straight ahead to the Algarve.
You may choose a short drive or a long drive. Short means motorway all the way and within 3 hours we are in the Algarve. Long drive is more scenic and interesting, but you need a full day. Tell us your preferences

Airport is is, then! I think we will choose the motorway so we don't have to spend the whole day on the road. We will leave sometime on the morning of 12 October. But, we can settle driving details when the time is closer. Even I am not quite that obsessive!

Sorry it's taken me so long to reply, but I did as Lobo suggests. Picking up at the airport went very smoothly and the rental agents were very helpful in giving us very good directions to the Algarve.

Hi Bailey and everyone else,

My wife and I just got back from our vacation, and we had a great time in Portugal. We ended up picking up a rental car from Budget. Good thing I made a reservation ahead of time, because every rental company was sold out on rental cars and were only holding cars for people who had reservations. Unfortunately, my experience with the rental car staff wasn't as great as yours, but overall renting a car was a fantastic decision, we covered so much ground and we change our itinerary as we pleased. With the only exception of Lisbon for our last two days, we never had reservations anywhere else. The most that we've paid for a room was 25 euros in Nazare, and the most the paid was 75 euros in Sintra. We mostly stayed in rooms at family houses, B&Bs. It was hot hot hot, and after reaching Porto we ended up driving thru the center of Portugal thru the mountains and escaping from the forest fires. Had a fantastic time while in Portugal and ....yes we brought tons of pottery from Sao Pedro Do Corval and never had a problem with getting a room during high season. As a matter of fact we were under budget, and still have money left to do another trip.

Thanks again to everyone!

csandoval - I just noticed your post, glad you had a great trip!

Hi Bailey, First of all, selfishly bookmarking this report, because it is so well done, and we are using it extensively! Also, have a question about the Estalagem de Convento in Obidos. It gets some pretty rough reviews on tripadvisor, but I see from your report, that you quite enjoyed it. Anything we should be hesitant about in choosing it? Thanks again for all the work put into your report--so helpful to other travellers! pp

Hi Peppermint!

I just took the time to read some of the tripadvisor reports about the Convent and our experience was very different than the recent reviews. I thoroughly enjoyed the ambience of the hotel, including our room, our beautifully tiled bathroom, lobby, and the area surrounding the hotel (there was a very cute cafe just across the small, cobblestone street). The hotel is also in a very convenient location, right next to the town wall and within walking distance of everything. We didn't have any problems with the staff, but we only came in contact with them for checking in and checking out. The only thing that I agree with from some of the reviews is that our bathroom did have a sewer-like smell towards the end of our stay. If our stay was longer, I would have said something to the staff about it. It's a hotel (I use the term loosely) with loads of character and charm, but I don't think it's right for travelers looking for the comforts that a Marriott offers.

So, I can only tell you about our experience with the Convent. The other reviews are a bit alarming and I wouldn't want you to stay there just based on my review and end up not enjoying your stay. If you do choose to stay there, I'd like to hear about your experience.

Thank you Bailey! I am embarrassed to say how far away our trip is! I like to think and dream ahead. After we actually make our trip I will definately let you know how we like it! What size room did you stay in? pp

PP: We stayed in a double room. Good luck - You'll have a wonderful time in Portugal and I look forward to hearing about your trip.

topping

topping for Dukey

Hi Bailey, Just wanted to let you know that we did indeed enjoy the Estalagem do Convento! We had no problems with the bath, and the family really liked it there. Also, thanks so much for passing on the tip about the pottery stop between Alcobacha, and Batalha. I brought an extra suitcase--good thing--for souveniers, and wish I could have bought even more! The owner is such a great guy! He got out all his supplies, and gave us a demonstration on pottery making, which was one of the highlights of out trip. He told us it was his "joy to share his job with us" I will try to post a trip report! Thanks again for your report, and all your tips! pp

Peppermint - I'm thrilled that you enjoyed the convent and the pottery place! Wasn't the pottery shop something? I could have walked away with the entire store! And the couple couldn't have been friendlier! I would love to read about your trip, so please post a quick message here letting me know that you wrote one - I don't want to miss it!

topping for Brit

HiJennifer:


Thanks to your report we paralleled many of the places you recommended. I recall taking notes and printing out some of your suggestions,..and enjoyed your informative and excellent photos. We had a marvelous 14 days and then went on to London, where the "sticker shock" was severe..but we had fun.

Thought I'd send you our Portugal pix which overlap many of yours...but at least it may give you a kick knowing that someone followed many of your suggestions.

We were able to get Golden Age 40% discounts at three different outstanding Pousadas ...the Estalagem in Obidos was perfect at €100, and we did Nazare'/Sitio as a day trip, and stayed threee nights in Sintra with our car.

You're right, indeed, Portugal is a gem of a country in every way. We took Lobo's advice for Calde Verde Fado in Lisbon....also drove into the northern mountains to Belmonte on an interview mission to hunt up the sinagoga just built about ten years ago by the remnant of the hidden Jews in that town, who still number about 125.

Thank you again, for being so instrumental in having us choose Portugal...it was my last remaining country in all of Europe where I had yet to visit. Mission accomplished.


http://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/Portugal2008

Stu T.

Stu - your photos are beautiful! Thank you so much for providing them. They brought back so many fond memories of our trip. I'm so glad that you had such a nice trip and I'm very happy that my report was of some help.

Obrigado, Bailey!

Led to this from peppermintpattie's TR. Bookmarking for later leisurely read.

Bailey and Stu
Thanks for your wonderful trip reports and photos. My husband and I will be visiting Portugal the last week in April. Our Itinerary includes arrive in Lisbon tour Cascais, Sintra (3days). Move onto Obidos, Nazare (2days) and finish in Porto.

My question is would you spend a day and night drive through Douro Valley and maybe sleep in Pinhao or take one of the river boats from Porto that go out and back in a day? My last 2 nights are already booked at "Guest House Douro" but I have an extra night that could be dedicated to somewhere in the Douro Valley.
Thanks for any input.

jiba - If it were me, I would drive through the Douro and stay overnight. We really enjoyed our day spent driving through the vineyards - I don't think it would be the same from the boat.

Thanks Bailey
I think we are going with the car rental and doing the drive. What a great report you have started here full of great information and pictures! I promise to post on our return!

Hi Bailey, i was reading your excellent report, but I still need your advise. Our first stop will be Oporto for 02 nights, and we have only 02 night more before we get to Lisbon, to the Lapa Palace. Wich cities would you reccomend us to stay over night (1 night in each one)? Coimbra and Obidos or......? I'll appreciate a lot your help!
Thanks and regards!

Hi, Bailey. Don't know if you still check in...loved your travelogue. (also peppermintpatti) We are heading to Portugal in Oct 2009 and will be visiting many places which you have described so eloquently. Looking forward to pottery and finding Bartis

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