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Please improve our detailed Bernese Oberland itinerary

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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 09:21 AM
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Please improve our detailed Bernese Oberland itinerary

Based on a lot of inputs from Fodorites, we have formulated this detailed itinerary for BO in August. We are a couple aged about 50 yrs, and would enjoy hikes, provided they are not too strenuous. And we have decided on buying the Swiss Pass for 8 days, which we have calculated to be the most reasonable for our travel plans. Here goes:
Day 1: Leave Luzern (after spending 3 days there) by the panorama train at 9:55 am, to arrive at Lauterbrunnen at 12:25pm. Dump our luggage at Hotel Staubbach (where we will be staying for 4 nights), and proceed for Murren by train. Get off the train at Grutschalp, and walk the trail to Murren. Late lunch at Murren. After some sightseeing, proceed walking to Gimmelwald. On the return, take the cable car from Gimmelwald to Murren, and the train from Murren to Lauterbrunnen. Dinner at Lauterbrunnen.
Day 2: Start early, and spend the morning visiting Staubbachfalle and Trummelbachfalle. Train to Grindelwald, and cable car to First. Lunch at First. Hike to Lake Bachalpsee and back.Cable car to Grindelwald. If time permits, visit Glacier Gorge (is there a bus ??). Roam around Grindelwald soaking in the views, before having dinner, and heading back to Lauterbrunnen.
Day 3: Start early for Jungfraujoch. Spend time at the top. Have heard good things about the hike to the hiker's hut at the top. How difficult is the hike ? And how cold does it get up there in August ? Hope to catch some snowboarding, dog-sledging etc. On the way down, stop at Kleine Schedegg for lunch. Proceed to Wengen, and take cable car to Mannlichen. Stroll around Mannlichen, before getting back to Wengen by cable car. Dinner at Wengen before heading back to Lauterbrunnen.
Day 4: Go to Lake Thun, Lake Brienz, Ballenberg museum, and stop at Interlaken for dinner on the way back to Lauterbrunnen. We need specific guidance on time-scheduling for this day.
Is our schedule OK for what can be achieved in every day ? Any hikes, rides etc that we have omitted, or require change ? Please help with your valuable comments, as you have always done in the past.
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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 09:28 AM
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If you like to hike the walk Murren down to Gimmelwald is a delight as well and once back on the valley floor the two mile stroll along a bubbling brook to Lauterbrunnen is swell too - i've done both and the paths are paved and gentle.
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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 09:34 AM
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PalenQ, we have proposed above walking from Grutscalp to Murren, and then walking from Murren to Gimmelwald. Are you proposing that we walk from Gimmelwald to Lauterbrunnen, instead of taking the cable car/train on the return journey ? How long is it ? And do you approve of our idea of walking from Grutscalp to Murren (instead of continuing with the train)?
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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 09:54 AM
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No - i'm sorry for not reading the latter part carefully

the Gimmelwald-Lauterbrunnen walk is some hours and sharply going down at points - whole different hiking and going down can be as strenuous IME as going up due to constant braking

sorry for not reading carefully

And the Grutschalp-Murren walk is a dream - flat and you get to stop at the famous Mountain Hotel/resto at Winteregg - in morning home of a famed Alpine Farmers Breakfast but anyway a nice rest on its sun terrace is as intoxicating as any Swiss beer you may order.

If you wanted to do the Schilthorn cablecar - Europe's longest cableway (actually a continuation of the Stechelberg-Murren cableway though it's not really continuous (?) then i'd hop the train to Murren

You do not indicate you are interested in Schilthorn but the views from up at that icy outpost in the middle of nowhere but rave 360 panaoramas and the unique cable car ride - small 2 or 4-person swinging gondolas (can't remember 2 or 4 as i was alone in one) that start and stop as folks board, deboard, etc. leaving o you dangling over the rugged terrain from up to a few hundred feet at times. anyway swiss pass would give you 50% off the Murren-Schilthorn and it does of course cover in full the gondolas and train L'brunnen-Murren-Gimmelwald-Stechelberg and postal bus back to Staubbach/L'brunnen

But if not doing Schilthorn i'd say you have lots of time to do that neat Grutschalp-Murren piece of cake hike. I've never found much to make me linger in Murren though it is a very pleasant flower-bedecked chaleted Alpine resort with fab views - but lots of restaurants and stores for picnic supplies.
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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 10:37 AM
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This is a good basic plan. If the weather cooperates, you will have a trip that reminds me of my very first visit there in 1998. That was when the territory was new and the thrill was high.

We fell in love with the place and have gone back several times just to do some of the activities you have planned.

I would like to make a few comments on your plan that I think will help you fine tune it better.

With Ballenberg planned last, you can switch events around if the day is cloudy.

I highly recommend the walk from Grutschalp to Mürren on a clear day.
The path is fairly level considering you are in the Alps. Along the way there are a few benches were you can enjoy the view of the Berner Oberland.

Technically speaking you do NOT get off the train at Grutschalp if coming from Lauterbrunnen.

The new cable way leaves from a station very close to the Lauterbrunnen train station and ascends quickly to Grutschalp - literally the name means the alp that slips. The slipping of the subsoil was why the old elevator on wheels cable system had to be taken out of service and replaced with the new aerial tram. The new facility is much better and quicker than the old system, even though I have nostalgic memories of the old contraption.

You leave the cable car at Grutschalp and then have the option of continuing on foot or by train to Mürren. When you buy your ticket you have the option to specify your destination.

There is a restaurant along the way between Grutschalp and Mürren where you have some refreshments.

I do NOT think it wise to walk down to the valley floor from Gimmelwald. The trail is very, very steep. Not fun at all. Nor is it scenic. It is a loser in my book.

If you are already in Gimmelwald, I see no need to return to Mürren at all. Simply take the cable car down to the valley station at Stechelberg and ride the Post Bus back to Lauterbrunnen. It will save time and a little money. The Post Bus stops near the Staubbach Hotel.

At the Jungfraujoch in August, the temperature depends entirely on the sun. If the sun is shining in the middle of the day, I have seen people on the trail in shorts and t-shirts. Of course if the clouds suddenly hide the sun, the temperature drops quickly.

The track from the main viewing building at the Jungfraujoch to the shelter facility, known as the Mönchsjochhütte, is fine as long as you stay on it. The way is obvious but if you venture off of it, you can sink into snow up to your waist.

Just as you approach the stairs leading up to the shelter, there may be ice on the path.

Because of the snow conditions, I suggest hiking boots, and a hiking pole with a snow basket is a big help.

If you walk past the shelter facility, you will emerge from behind the shelter of the mountain. The view is great, but watch out for a strong wind. I would put my jacket on before leaving the shelter of the rocks because if you are warm and that wind hits you, evaporational cooling is seemingly instant!!

As for "touring" Staubbach Falls, that takes only a few minutes. You an see them quite well from the hotel!!

A visit to Trümmelbach Falls is a little more involved. The cascades are deeply recessed in the rock and you pay to get in. An elevator takes you up a few dozen yards where you walk to viewing areas that are lighted.

Let me make one suggestion about First. Rather than walking to the Bachalp See, I think you would be more rewarded if you walked across the meadow to the restaurant at Grosse Scheidegg. At times the trail divides among the grass, and it is hard to follow. Not to worry you can see the restaurant off in the distance. Just follow other walkers. All the little sub paths seem to end up at the right place.

From Grosse Scheidegg you can ride the Post Bus back to Grindelwald. It goes to the train station but you can get off before then and walk along the streets.

The ticket agent at the First Gondola station can sell you a ticket to First with return from Grosse Scheidegg.

The terrace of the restaurant at Grosse Scheidegg is also nice for viewing the mountains.

Either way you win.

One final suggestion. The Staubbach Hotel is very near the church. The cemetary in the church yard is a beautiful flower garden as well. Also near the church, a little down hill and around the bend in the road and across the creek, there is the little museum. It is well worth visiting. The tour is short, but for its size, the museum has some interesting portrayals of valley life in years past - Switzerland as it was 150 years ago.

One final word. Don't plan your visit too tightly. You may well see something that demands your attention. The first year we were there, we started often with the 7:26 train to Grindelwald, and finally ran out of gas about 8 pm that night.

Bear in mind that many stores close for lunch. In fact just about all of them take a noon time break of at least an hour.

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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 07:36 PM
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Thanks bob brown for your wonderful suggestions. The only reason we had thought about returning from Gimmelwald via Murren is that the Murren-Lauterbrunnen journey is fully covered by our Swiss Pass, whereas the route you proposed would involve paying 50%. I understand that with Swiss Pass, travel upto Murren, Grindelwald and Wengen are free, and 50% off thereafter.
Will definitely explore your suggestion of doing Grosse Scheidegg instead of Lake Bachalpsee. We were not planning on carrying any special hiking boots, just our regular Nikes. Would that be a problem doing the hike at Jungfraujoch to the Montsjochhutte ? I am sure we can pick up hiking sticks somewhere in Switzerland. How long is that hike ? And what kind of clothing do you recommend ?
PalenQ, we hadn't thought of visiting the Schilthorn, as we thought we might be cramming too much into 4 days, but we will look into it now. Thanks for your suggestions.
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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 07:38 PM
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BTW, any short hikes from Wengen or Mannlichen ? Any Fodorite have experience with the Lake Bachalpsee hike from First ?
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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 08:14 PM
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I have done the First to Bachalp See hike several times. It is along a wide track that undulates quite a bit. The surface is gravel.

If you continue beyond the area of the dam, the path goes along the north side of the lake and then ascends to the Faulhorn.

The last section of the trail is rather steep to the ill-conditioned. If you have the stamina to get to the top, the views are stupendous to say the least. If you make it up there by physical effort, the Schilthorn seems rather weak by comparison!!

The best walk around Wengen is probably the easy trail from the crest of the Männlichen down a gentle slope to Kleine Scheidegg.

I have done it twice, and may well do it again in July. The route down is dominated by the north face of the Eiger with the Mönch looming into more prominent view as you near Kleine Scheidegg and its train station.

A slightly more energetic hike is the Eiger trail. It begins near the Eigergletscher rail station and drops downhill to Alpiglen on the rail line between Kleine Scheidegg and Grindelwald.

The trail down can be a little tricky because of the fine grained scree that covers part of the trail.
Many people prefer to hike it uphill because there is less danger of slipping.

Even if you do not walk the trail down, there are some lovely viewpoints from the crest of the ridge.


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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 08:15 PM
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PS don't worry about finding things to do! I have been there several times and I still find new little things to do.

One visit will not be sufficient unless you spend 6 weeks there.

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Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 06:09 AM
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The Jungfraujoch trip is great, but because it's such a pain to get to (and expensive as hell) I honestly don't think it's worth it. It's about 3+ hours roundtrip on a densely packed train (with hardly any scenery since you're inside a mountain). There are any number of nearly free hikes to be done during that time which would give you almost as much "wow!" as the Jungfraujoch. I did it once but I won't do it again.

I found the hike to the hut to be very difficult, but I was having a touch of altitute sickness at the time. If you feel fine, give it a shot.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 06:20 AM
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And Jungfrau, which i found more exciting than some, could always be shrouded in clouds - if going hop on the first clear day - there are weather monitors all over the areas and on many hotel TVs.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 06:57 AM
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Is there a train from Murren to Lauterbrunnen? I thought you had to go by aerial gondola.

About your last day, you can take the train from Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken Ost, walk across the street, and catch the boat for Lake Brienz. It stops in Brienz, where there should be a connecting bus to Ballenberg waiting.

When you get back to Interlaken, use your Swiss Pass to take the train to Interlaken West. The boat for Lake Thun leaves from there. This makes for a long day.

In fact, you are cramming a lot into a few days. Plus you need to keep a bit flexible to take advantage of good weather. You don't want to go to Jungfraujoch or Schilthorn if it isn't clear.
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Old Apr 22nd, 2008, 07:08 AM
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Is there a train from Murren to Lauterbrunnen? I thought you had to go by aerial gondola

Re-read above posts - there is a train from Murren to Grutschalp from where the new aerial cableway plummets to the Lauterbrunnen train station
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 05:57 PM
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Interesting & helpful replies. I also am heading to this area & am getting ideas on which hikes/routes to take from your input.

Am also interested in the above posters question --- are regular running shoes (Nikes) good enough,
or do we need proper hiking boots?

Also, can we buy one of those "walking sticks" anywhere in Lauterbrunnen area? Once done our trip, I suppose we can pass the sticks along to new tourists at the hostel or hotels?

Thanks.
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 06:06 PM
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If you are going in August, and doing only moderate hikes, you should be OK in running shoes (trail runners are more sturdy than the regular ones). However, the walk out to Monchsjoch Hütte at the Jungfraujoch is on snow the whole way, so if you are thinking of doing that. . . boots are in order.

Walking sticks should be widely available at the sports shops in Lauterburnnen, Mürren, and Wengen. They usually have some on sale, hanging on racks outside the shop.
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Old May 22nd, 2008, 06:57 PM
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Thank you for the quick reply. My trip is June 8 - 17th. Will there still be snow?

I plan to do only moderate/easy hikes. Looking forward to the trip!
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 06:19 AM
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It would be rare IME to have snow anywhere below the Jungfraujoch in early June but i guess possible
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 06:01 PM
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 06:44 PM
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<Also, can we buy one of those "walking sticks" anywhere in Lauterbrunnen area? Once done our trip, I suppose we can pass the sticks along to new tourists at the hostel or hotels?>

When I stayed in Murren a few years back, I rented walking sticks at the sports store for a very minimal amount - like $2.00. We found them very handy for hiking. Helps from not slipping.
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 06:52 PM
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The Jungfraujoch is definitely worth the trip if the weather is good, but don't even think of spending all that money if the mountains are obscured by clouds.

We did the hike from the Jungfraujoch to Mönchsjochhütte on a clear, sunny day last August. It is about a 45-minute hike, moderate uphill slope, but you really feel the burn because of the high altitude. The important thing is to wear layers so you can peel off as you warm up and then cover up again at the top. If you take it slow and leisurely (say over an hour or more) you should be fine. You are hiking across a glacier, so there WILL be snow and it can range from slick to sopping wet. I don't think I would advise doing it in sneakers. If you are in the area for a number of days and plan to do a bit of hiking, then proper boots are definitely in order.
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