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Please help with my almost 3 week itinerary for Croatia

Please help with my almost 3 week itinerary for Croatia

Old Jan 8th, 2016, 09:49 AM
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Please help with my almost 3 week itinerary for Croatia

My husband and I are planning a trip for June 2016. I have been reading this forum and have come up with a possible itinerary. We are in our early 60s and like to travel at a leisurely pace feeling like we have really seen the countries we visit. My husband loves photography and taking photos, changing lenses, complaining about his photos and taking them again always adds time to our trips.

3 nights in Dubrovnik
Rent a car and spend 2 or 3 nights (?) in Montenegro. Is it better to stay in Kotar or Perast or some other town?
1 night in Mostar
3 nights in Split also doing day trips to Trogir and maybe a day trip to an island
Should we also spend 2 nights in Zadar including day trips to Sibenik and Krka National Park or should we just stay extra nights in Split and do these three places as day trips from Split?
1 night in Plitvice National Park
4 nights in Rovinj
1 or 2 nights in the area outside Zagreb. I've read about some castles, interesting towns, etc. that sound as if they are worth a visit.
Return the rental car and end with 2 nights in Zagreb.
Fly home.

I would appreciate any suggestions and any help with the questions I still have. Thanks so much.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 12:34 PM
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You can read my trip reports about Croatia (and Montenegro) if you haven't already by clicking on my name.

Your itinerary sounds fine, more or less. I might have different preferences, but that doesn't mean you should do what I would do. I didn't care for Split or Zagreb that much on my first trip in 2009 and avoided them on my return to Croatia last year (while re-visiting other favorite places like Plitvice and Dubrovnik). You also don't have an island on your itinerary other than a day trip - which is fine, but it's not difficult really if you understand the ferries. I would probably recommend a few nights in Korcula (where I have been) or Hvar (where I haven't) and take nights away from Split, Zagreb, and Rovinj myself.

Four nights in Rovinj OK fine - I loved the town - but it's very small so best as a base for day trips but a great place to come back to at night. Unless you really want to go deep into the Istrian hill towns (or simply stop in Rovinj and chill and relax), you don't need a ton of time for them - a day was plenty for me. I wish I had resisted the need to visit Pula (only for a day) because I really didn't care for it much. But, you might be able to drop a night from Rovinj if you wanted to fit in something else.

Also, I loved Slovenia, and Ljubljana is one of my favorite little cities in Europe. Visiting it on a "Croatia trip" wouldn't really bother me that it's technically in another country now - it all used to be Yugoslavia til 1990 anyway. I'd consider driving up to Ljubljana for a few nights myself instead of trying to pack in other things just because they happen to be in Croatia.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 12:39 PM
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As for Montenegro: I stayed one night in Dobrota, basically a suburb of Kotor. (Dobrota is thin and fairly long - I stayed about a 10 minute walk from Kotor at the southern end of Dobrota.) Kotor was OK but didn't grab me. The views from walking the "walls" above town were great, though, and the twisty drive - 25 hairpins - up the mountains above Kotor over to Cetinje - offers breathtaking views down. (Some have found this drive a little scary but I didn't have any issues driving up hill driving a 5-speed; when buses would come down hill the other way, I simply took my time and even let the buses back up to find a wide enough section of road where we could pass. No sweat - just relax and take it easy.)

I only stopped in Perast briefly but loved what I saw. It seems a more relaxed, peaceful town than Kotor, though I suppose you may have fewer restaurant choices over three nights there. Perast is small, so maybe over three nights it would get old, but my impression is that I might have preferred staying over there vs. near Kotor.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 12:42 PM
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If you're going to go to Mostar I would highly recommend visiting Sarajevo as well - much more interesting.

One night in Plitvice is the minimum, depending on when you get there two would be better.

Do not visit Dubrovnik without checking the cruise ship schedules, see: http://www.portdubrovnik.hr/girica1.php

I love Ljubljana, but I don't think you have time for Slovenia as well.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 12:51 PM
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Thank you both so much for such helpful and very quick responses. Andrew, I definitely read your posts and reports and took lots of helpful notes. We've decided to save Slovenia for another trip since it would end up making this one too long.

I thought about adding an island as an overnight but I wasn't sure how we would handle that with a car. I understand that dealing with the car ferries can be a real hassle especially requiring very early line up to get on.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 12:52 PM
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Although I think many would enjoy a visit to Sarajevo, it's a detour on the rest of the itinerary - you probably have to double back to the coast if you want to visit Split, Istria, Plitvice, etc. before ending in Zagreb. Ljubljana might not be that much of a detour by comparison or no greater than Sarajevo, anyway, if you drive from Istria up and then back to Zagreb. Sarajevo obviously has greater historical significance than little Ljubljana, but I still prefer the latter myself. Again, we all have personal preferences, and that would be mine.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 12:58 PM
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(I posted my last comment about Ljubljana before reading yours. Nothing wrong with saving Slovenia for a later trip.)

Admittedly, I haven't used the car ferries to say Korcula and not in June; I took the bus there from Dubrovnik and then a catamaran to Split, so I didn't have to worry about it. After the trip I kind of wished I had kept the car and taken it by ferry to Korcula, though - I didn't really understand the ferries either until afterward. It would have simplified my trip a little. But, you might seek feedback from people who have taken these local ferries to Korcula or Hvar in June or September. Could be you are right and it's not worth the hassle, but I wouldn't give up on the idea of an island unless it really doesn't bother you. There are plenty of other worthy things to see in Croatia besides Korcula and Hvar.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 01:34 PM
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Thank you so much Andrew. You are so kind to spend so much time helping out all who post questions here about Croatia.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 04:54 PM
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"Is it better to stay in Kotar or Perast or some other town?"

I haven't stayed in either, but Perast is very tiny -- I'm not sure I would want to spend a few nights there. I could be wrong!

"Should we also spend 2 nights in Zadar including day trips to Sibenik and Krka National Park or should we just stay extra nights in Split and do these three places as day trips from Split?"

Your call! I prefer to move on and see different places in different lights, etc., and I hate backtracking; other people prefer to base in a single location and do day trips.

"1 night in Plitvice National Park"

The Plitvice Lakes National Park is, IMO, the single most un-missable of Croatia's many splendors. Not only are the lakes connected by travertine waterfall formations, each lake has unique microbiota, and as a result, the lakes are different colors. The best way to see that is, IMO, to make a single, long loop through the park -- something on the order of 6 hours or more (including time for the boat that connects the lower and upper lakes) , and by all means, start at the lowest part of the park so you are facing the falls as you proceed.

"4 nights in Rovinj"

I'm another traveler who would find that a bit much. YMMV.

"I thought about adding an island as an overnight but I wasn't sure how we would handle that with a car."

Another option would be to use a rental car for only parts of your trip. For example, you could rent the car for Montenegro and then return it. Use public transportation for Korcula, Split and surrounds, and Mostar. Then pick up another rental on your way out of Split. Just something to consider...

I loved Split -- it's one of my favorite places in Croatia. And I thought Zagreb quite delightful. Obviously, not everyone agrees.

Hope that helps!
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Old Jan 9th, 2016, 04:32 AM
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Thank you kja. You also have spent a lot of your time helping us on this forum and it is greatly appreciated. The only reason I decided to keep the rental car the entire time is that the public transportation seems to be mostly buses and my husband does not do well on long bus trips.
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Old Jan 9th, 2016, 05:10 AM
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The Krka Falls park is close to Sibenik. Sibenik is a charming medieval town.

"Sibenik is is a historic town in Croatia located in north Dalmatia where the river Krka flows into the Adriatic Sea. Šibenik is a political, educational, transport, industrial and tourist center of Sibenik-Knin county. The road traffic position of Sibenik is extremely important as good traffic connections provide quality connections with the surrounding areas, a new highway Dalmatina connects Sibenik with other parts of Croatia and Europe. The town of turbulent history and priceless cultural and historical heritage offers many tourist attractions: diverse tourist accommodation, gourmet delicacies, cultural heritage, various excursion program (organized trips to two nearby National Parks: National Park Krka and National Park Kornati, and part of the Nature Park Vransko jezero), clean sea, beautiful rocky pebble beaches - Sibenik has four city beaches: "Banj", "Solaris Beach Resort" - the best sandy beach on the Adriatic, beach "Rezaliste" - in Brodarica, 6 km from Sibenik; the town beach "Jadrija". Sibenik is known by their three ACI Marina: NPC - Nautical Center Prgin Group is one of the largest and leading nautical industry of Mediterranean, D Marina Dalmacija, Marina Solaris.
Here are some of Sibenik attractions that you should not miss: Bungee jumping from the Sibenik bridge, "Dubrava Falcony Center" - located 7 km from the town, with different types of birds of prey; "Aquarium Sibenik" - a unique experience of the sea and seabed for the whole family, "St. Anthony's Channel"- with breathtaking panoramic views of the Sibenik and Sibenik archipelago, "Solaris Aquapark" - the first water park in Dalmatia, it is settled between Solaris Kids Hotel Andrija and Solaris Beach hotel Jakov. Together with the Family beach in front of the hotels, it will circle a story intended primarily for families with children, but also for everyone else with an adventurous spirit; unavoidable are historical monuments: Cathedral of St. James (under UNESCO protection) - with masters: Giorgio Orsini and Niccolò di Giovanni Fiorentin, City Hall, the Rector's Palace, the National Theatre, Bishop's Palace, Fortress of Sibenik, City walls, Medieval garden and the monastery of St. Lawrence."

copied from http://www.veduta-travel.com

Montenegro:
The historic city center of walled Kotor is a fine place. From the rooms to let at Milocer, you have usually a fine view over the pine forests to Sveti Stefan and the Adriatic Sea.

Trogir:
The medieval center of Trogir might be a fine alternative to Split which is only a few kms away.
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Old Jan 9th, 2016, 08:25 AM
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Thanks, theatrelover. Over the years, I've received a great deal of expert advice from my fellow Fodorites, so it is my pleasure to be able to give a little back. It's especially nice to do so for someone who is appreciative.

@ neckervd -- fascinating excerpt on Sibenik. Most of the things I treasured about it -- St. James, the Rector's Palace, St. Lawrence -- aren't even mentioned until the last 4 lines of this lengthy description, and some of what I greatly enjoyed -- the ancient medieval streets and unusual church facades -- aren't mentioned at all. I'm not sure I would have read that far, or gone at all, with the first part of that description!
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Old Jan 9th, 2016, 08:32 AM
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You are right, kja. Local people have obviously not the same ideals.
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Old Jan 9th, 2016, 08:37 AM
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You could leave the car in Split and take a catamaran over to one of the islands if you just want to spend a night there, rather than taking the car ferry. There is a paid parking lot at the bus station which is right next to the ferries. I don't know how much it would cost to park for a couple of days, but it might be the same as bringing the car over (or less) and it takes less time for the crossing.

You can also ask your hotel if it is possible to leave your car in their lot, if they have a lot.
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Old Jan 9th, 2016, 09:03 AM
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As always, rialtogrl has identified a great option! And it reminds me that you could do the same thing with Korcula (which I, personally, preferred to Hvar) -- except, of course, that in this case you would leave the car in Dubrovnik or Orebic or other place from which you can get a ferry for foot passengers. And if you can time your trip to see the moresca while on Korcula, that would be a bonus!
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Old Jan 10th, 2016, 07:15 PM
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Thank you neckervd for all that wonderful information.

That's a great idea about leaving the car and spending a night on one of the islands. Thank you for the idea and the information, rialtogrl and kja. I will definitely incorporate that into our itinerary.
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Old Jan 11th, 2016, 02:24 AM
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IMO it makes sense to leave the car at Split if you visit Islands from there.
Things might be a bit different if you try to include Korcula into the Dubrovnik - Split itinerary. You could then well drive to Korcula (via Orebic ferry (plus Ploce Trpany ferry if you come from Mostar)) and leave the island by Vela Luka - Split ferry.
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Old Jan 11th, 2016, 11:37 AM
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Thank you neckervd. I appreciate the helpful information.
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Old Jan 12th, 2016, 02:32 AM
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You're welcome
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Old Jan 13th, 2016, 09:58 AM
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Based on all the information you all provided, I have made some changes to the itinerary:

3 nights Dubrovnik
3 nights Montenegro
1 night Mostar
3 nights Split
(leave the car in Split) 2 nights on Hvar
2 nights in Zadar
2 nights in Plitvice to allow my husband a full day in the park to take photos and leave the next morning for a 4 hour drive to Rovinj
3 nights in Rovinj
1 night in the area around Zagreb
2 nights in Zagreb

Thank you all for all your help.
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