Please help me eat well in Greece!

Old Apr 1st, 2017, 10:47 PM
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kja
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Please help me eat well in Greece!

I am looking forward to traveling in Greece for nearly a month, starting in early May, and am also looking forward to savoring some delicious late evening meals.

I’ve taken copious notes from guidebooks, prior trip reports, and planning threads (including mine). I’m hoping to gather a few more suggestions….

I’m looking for sit-down meals (not street food) that I can enjoy with wine or beer. I strongly prefer traditional offerings and/ or locally sourced foods. I’m open to anything from simple tavernas to an occasional splurge for haute cuisine.

Please feel free to recommend places to eat or specific regional dishes or anything else that I should be sure to consider, including local wines and other beverages that I would do well to sample.

With many thanks in advance, here are the places where I will be staying: I’ve tried to put them in alphabetical order, but that gets a bit tricky! I’m going with the Lonely Planet spellings….

Agia Galini, Crete
Athens
Cape Sounion
Delphi
Dimitsana
Firostefani, Santorini
Hania (aka Chania), Crete
Hora (aka Chora), Naxos
Iraklio (aka Heraklion), Crete
Kastraki (Meteora)
Limeni
Mavromati
Nafplio
Rethymno
Thessaloniki

P.S. For the prior planning threads for my trip, see:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-greece.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-greece.cfm

Thanks so much, one and all!
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Old Apr 1st, 2017, 11:08 PM
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Oh wish I could give you actual restaurant names.. but we ate very well in Naxos.. sit down meals.. cheap and local. We asked for recommendations from hotel.. and had some great meals.

One place we didn't eat.. but stopped in ( so if you rent a car as its about 20 minutes outside of town in the mountains ) was the Rotunda Restaruant.. amazing view.. and the owners made us some sort of fresh hot donut in a honey sauce. Restaurant was closed but the adult son and mom run the place and were renovating it.. our car broke down and they invited us in to wait for repair man.. such wonderful people..
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Old Apr 1st, 2017, 11:24 PM
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Best advice I can give is to look for small family-run tavernas, and don't order off the menu. Avoid restaurants that have photos of the meals in the window, or have someone standing outside calling to passersby.

Most small tavernas will have a display case with food prepped for the evening meal, or even let you walk into part of the kitchen to see what is cooking. You will discover many delicious Greek foods that way, and always end up with something fresh.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 12:06 AM
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@ justineparis: I’m glad to know that you ate well in Naxos! IME, having a car break down en route can present some, uh, interesting ? challenges, but it sounds like the Rotunda Restaurant family helped you turn a potentially difficult moment into a lovely memory. Thanks for sharing it! If I’m in the area, I’ll definitely look for the Rotunda.

@ Heimdall: I love the idea of going into a kitchen to see what they are preparing – what a great option! I can’t imagine what would happen in a major US city if I walked into a kitchen to see what was afoot! ;-)
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 12:35 AM
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Kja, the problem with looking for restaurant recommendations in the guidebooks or on travel forums is that you usually end up in restaurants geared for tourists. Look on the menu in a Greek restaurant and you tend to order items you are already familiar with.

Restaurants with views are almost always more expensive than the out of the way places Greeks tend to patronise. I was once taken to a taverna near the Acropolis in Athens by Greek friends. It was wonderful, and tucked away on a side street with no views. I don't remember its name, and doubt I could ever find it again on my own.

One of the people in the group I was with was Kostas from http://www.athens-walks.com. A booking with his food tour might be a good investment, especially if near the beginning of your trip.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 08:05 AM
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One trick that I have learned after many trips to Greece particularly in the shoulder season of May is there are dozens of tavernas. Because there are not enough people around to fill every one some are absolutely empty and 20 meters away one is packed. I always choose the packed one even if I have to wait for a few minutes. The packed one will have a combination of good prices good service and good food.

This plan only failed us once. On that occasion we were way out in a remote village and there was one packed taverna. We chose that one but I failed to notice that everyone was drinking but not eating. Apparently the attraction to this taverna was the booze and the football game on the TV.

They had a limited menu and the waitress did not speak English. We had to point out a couple of dishes and ask, moo, baa, or oink. We should have just ordered french fries.

I really can't remember the tavernas we have eaten at from your list of locations.
I will mention Taverna Fanaria In Nafplio. It is tucked in down a little alleyway. It will be the one with all the people.

In Chania tamam is our favourite its in a little alleyay about a block from the harbour. Finding a good taverna on the harbour is a bit harder since its touristy. Amphora has a sign that says we don't hassle you and they don't, the view is amazing, food is good and its well priced.
Over to the new harbour side is Michaels. Its past the mosque. It too has great views we have eaten there several times and were very happy. Unfortunately the sign is in Greek It starts with an M and has an x in the middle the rest of the letters my keyboard doesn't have. It translates to Michaels.

Naxos has many really good tavernas. Our favourite is Taverna to Kastro. Its way up in town just under the Kastro walls. Good views, good food and prices. Service is a little slow but the view and the wine makes that part of the experience.

For upscale dining there is a relatively new taverna just off of fountain square. Nostoman Hellas was created by a chef from high end Mykonos restaurant. They moved to Naxos and have a Greek menu but different from the normal fare. Its still outside though so no need to dress up.

Right on the waterfront is Good Heart (Kala Cardia.) Simple food well priced.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 09:07 AM
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@ Heimdall: Thanks again! While I welcome restaurant recommendations, I’m also seeking suggestions of specific dishes or foods, in part so I don’t end up ordering only the foods I know and so I sample local specialties. That’s the information from guidebooks that I’ve found particularly helpful – I don’t generally use guidebooks to identify specific restaurants.

@ stanbr: Thanks so much for these suggestions!
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 10:27 AM
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Gosh, that's difficult, because there are so many foods from which to choose, and regional variations as well.

I like fresh fish when on the islands, but most, like snapper and sea bream, are very expensive. They are priced by the kilo, so pick your fish from the display and ask for it to be weighed before ordering. Octopus is less expensive, and something you ought to try while in Greece. My favourite restaurant on Antiparos, Yorgis Taverna, has fish soup to die for, so maybe look for that in other places.

One meat dish you should try while in Greece is Lamb Kleftiko. Here is a discription: http://www.mygreekdish.com/recipe/la...rchment-paper/ . Another popular Greek dish is stifado, which is sort of a stew usually made with rabbit, but also with other meats.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 11:00 AM
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Should note we felt that while the lamb dishes we ate were delicious they usually roast their lamb more than we would .

Also note Naxos is famous for growing potatoes so try potato dishes , also their local feta , so much better than what we get here ! Creamier and less salty .

I loved stuffed peppers and tomatoes . We love octopus . I always had a salad , and love cheese and spinach pie ( spanakopita )
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 12:52 PM
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Stifado is a casserole dish flavoured with cinnamon and red wine and has shallot onions. It is usually made with beef or rabbit.

Kleftiko is lamb that is cooked for many hours, in the old days it was cooked underground, it is very delicious if the restaurant knows how to cook it properly. There are places that specialise in cooking it.

Yemista are stuffed vegetables with rice or rice and mince meat, could be peppers, onions or zucchini, tomatoes that are stuffed.

Youvetsi is a dish made with beef or lamb and an orzo type pasta, it's called kritharaki.

Bakeries are a delight to visit, many savoury and sweet things to try, zaxaroplasteio are places which has sweet things, cakes and confectionery, you can have a Greek coffee and a pastry served with a glass of water.

In Santorini, I enjoyed the "horta" which are wild herbs served simply steamed with olive oil and lemon, they are quite bitter and not to everyone's taste but are quite good for you (dandelions and other foraged greens.) Santorini is famous for it's fava beans. The restaurants in Ammoudi Bay are great, simple food, close to the waterfront and caldera view. Although the posher restaurants have better views, they don't necessarily have better food, just more expensive.

Some of the best places we have eaten are local recommendations or are places we have found by chance.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 03:12 PM
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What wonderful ideas – keep them coming!

@ Heimdall: I adore octopus, and am looking forward to trying any number of Greek preparations thereof. I may splurge on fresh fish once or twice; unfortunately, fish priced by the kilo is one of the negatives to solo travel. Lamb Kleftiko sounds delicious – I’ll be sure to watch for it, and for fish soup and stifado. Thanks so much!

@ justineparis: Thanks again! I had already heard about the potatoes on Naxos, but hadn’t singled Naxos out for its feta. Sounds risky – I may never be able to eat the feta I can get at home again! I’m sure I’ll enjoy the spanakopita, stuffed peppers and tomatoes, and as just noted, the octopus. And thanks for the warning about the lamb! Your advance notice will help be appreciate it for what it is, rather than what I might have expected.

@ Odin: I think I may have learned about Santorini’s horta from you, and since I love greens and am one of the small percentage of humans who lack bitter receptors, I suspect I’ll savor them! I will make sure that fava beans are also on my list for Santorini. Stifado, Kleftiko, Yemista, and Youvetsi all sound incredibly tasty; with luck, I will sample each and every one, and in several variants. The bakeries sound dangerous – I’m going to have to do a lot of walking if I try them! Thanks so much!
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 06:24 PM
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Justine, the reason that roast lamb is cooked well done may be, perhaps, that through the decades (centuries) Greeks could not afford the better cuts of meat, from any animal -- pork, beef, lamb. So they had the parts that were less tender, required longer cooking. As a result, many of their traditional dishes... stews, roast meats with vegetables etc... and are cooked Low and Slow. And they have the MOST flavor -- kleftiko and stifado can be sublime. Early on, I learned to ask what on the menu was "fourno" (oven -- from same root as "furnace") -- and got what I wanted ... plus, they heard that I knew something about the food. Now that upscale tourism has reached Naxos, some tavernas offer grilled meats, such as lamb chops that can be ordered rare ... altho that's not the Greek chef's instinct. Also, typically, dishes aren't served Piping Sizzling Hot -- I've read that Greeks don't feel that's necessarily good for you; warm is better.

Since kja is such an eager consumer of Greek-Facts, she should be delighted with the section of Matt Barrett's website I like best (no commercials, lots of photos) http://www.greecefoods.com - and it's subsection, What It Is and How to Say it - http://www.greecetravel.com/greek-fo...s/ordering.htm which describes the ingredients of many popular dishes, and how to pronounce their names when ordering. Of course, most waiters these days speak English perfectly well, but using some Greek is always well-received, you may even get a "Bravo" and an extra dollop of KOH-Kee-No (red wine).
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 08:26 PM
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@ travelerjan: I must admit that I have NO idea what “Greek-Facts” is, or why you think I'm "an eager consumer" of it, but I’ll look it up. And I’ll also look at Matt Barrett’s website, which I’ve found to be too hard to navigate to be of use for most of my purposes. I definitely prefer to be able to make at least a small effort to communicate in the language of the countries I visit, so I appreciate the links you've provided. And an extra dollop of red wine would be much appreciated!

Thanks for letting me know to ask about “fourno” dishes.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2017, 09:36 PM
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@ travelerjan: Again, thanks for the link to http://www.greecetravel.com/greek-fo...s/ordering.htm
I'm sure that will be very helpful!

I've done some checking, and can find no reason for you to believe that I am "an eager consumer of Greek-Facts". Perhaps you can tell me what makes you think I am / was? Or even tell me what it is?
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Old Apr 3rd, 2017, 05:24 AM
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I didn't mean to capitalize the words, just simply meant that you have a number of threads in which you ask for information, and are always eager to hear more more more, with thanks for each helping. It was not meant as anything slighting, don't get your feathers ruffled. It's All Good.
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Old Apr 3rd, 2017, 08:15 AM
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A must would be a Gyro . . . Greece's version of Fast Food but far superior to "Regular" fast food. You can get a lamb, pork or chicken Gyro served on a toasted pita bread, filled with shredded meat, tomato, onion, lettuce, tzatsiki sauce and sometimes French Frieds for 2 euros! For something quick, inexpensive and low-priced you can't go wrong.

I've found Greek food to be very good, nice sized portions and priced at some of the lowest prices in Europe, never mind the US!

Don't forget the House Wine which is very good and low priced!

One thing you would love is to ask your server/owner if you can look at the kitchen or serving area to see what's available. Rather than getting a set menu item you can ask for a little of this, a little of that and a big part of those . . . and you won't get thrown out like you would in the US!
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Old Apr 3rd, 2017, 09:14 AM
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I agree with Heimdall's tips.

Avoid the tourist restaurants if possible and try to find small family restaurants with Greek customers.

To try food you would not otherwise know to try, you can use a simple method. When I find a small family restaurant in a village, I never look at the menu. I always ask what they would SUGGEST TODAY.

Before I do that I first ask for a beer and ask whether they have any Horiatiko Psomi(prounounced hoh-ree-AH-tee-koh psoh-MEE). If they do, I ask for some with some olive oil and a some olives. Then I ask what mezes they would suggest today.

If they don't have Horiatiko Psomi, I just nod and then move on to asking what mezes they would suggest today. Often, this will indicate to them that you know a little about what you are doing and instead of offering the usual they offer tourists, they will offer something less common that they make less of for local customers.

For example, Stifado is a well known Greek dish. However, while in tourist restaurants it will almost always be a beef stew, in fact all kinds of ingredients can be used. I've had both rabbit and goat stifatho. Most tourists don't want to try them and so they are rarely on a tourist menu.

Unfortunately, mezedes are best with a group. A single person can only reasonably expect to order a few and eat them while a group can order far more variety to share.

Fortunately, while meze are an appetizer, it is quite acceptable to make a meal of them and not go on to a 'main course' at all. Does it look like this guy is starving?
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2iry6YYj5R...0/P7210327.JPG

Another tip I have has to do with loyalty. Greeks place a great deal of weight on loyalty when it comes to customers. Visit them once and all is fine but visit them 6 times and you become family and as such, treated much differently including in what you are offered to eat.
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Old Apr 3rd, 2017, 09:18 AM
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I should have explained that Horiatiko Psomi is 'country bread'. Often made once a week in the outdoor oven out back of the restaurant by the 'Yaya' (grandmother).
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...25c27707ac.jpg

So they run out of it and often only offer it to locals while tourists never see any. LOL
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Old Apr 3rd, 2017, 09:53 AM
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For some reason mackerel is cheaper than most fresh fish, and I happen to like it, so always look for it in the displays. Swordfish is also cheap, but almost always thawed out from frozen. Deep fried small fish is also inexpensive.

I sometimes order swordfish souvlaki. You can also get pork and chicken souvlaki, which is less greasy than gyros, but still not healthy to eat every night.

As Dogeared wrote, mezedes (starters) are meant for more than one person, and can be a meal in themselves. I know the people where I usually eat, and when I order greek salad to start my meal I ask for a half-portion. Some of my other favourite starters are tzatziki dipped in the bread they bring you at the start of the meal, Dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), and zucchini balls (I won't bother with the Greek name, all the waiters will know what you mean).

I found this web page with a few photos. What they show as souvlaki is actually gyros: http://www.greeka.com/blog/greece/to...s-try-holidays
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Old Apr 3rd, 2017, 10:47 AM
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I want to go back to Greece.. Dogeared.. love those photos.

Travelerjan you are such an amazing resource on this forum for Greece.. blue ribbon to you.
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