Planning for Palermo.
Jan 27th, 2016, 04:25 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Planning for Palermo.
My husband and I are planning our third trip to Sicily -- this time mostly focusing on the western side of the island. We will be traveling in late June and I think I have our itinerary set, but even after reading a lot of other people's questions and trip reports -- i still have questions...
Here's the plan:
Palermo - Palco Room&Suites - 2 nights
Erice - Residence San Martino - 1 night
Menfi - La Foresteria Planeta Estate - 3 nights
Linguaglossa - Villa Neri Resort -- 3 nights (staying here, on the northern slopes of Etna for wine tasting)
PALERMO QUESTIONS:
1. When leaving Palermo, we are renting a car on a Monday morning at Avis on via crispi (yes, i know many of you cringe at the thought, but we've done a lot of driving in Italian cities and are ok with it) and hope to drive to the Monreale Cathedral on our way of town. Does anyone have any parking tips for the cathedral? We will then be heading straight to Erice. (Unless we should stop somewhere special along the way for lunch??)
2. We're thinking about taking the 1 hour train ride to Cefalu on a Sunday afternoon (like 2ish) to take a stroll and see the town. Not sure if it's worth it? Any recommendations on what to do there? Maybe just go to the beach?
GREEK TEMPLE QUESTION:
On the way to Menfi, we can stop at Segesta, and when we're in Menfi, we have close access to Selinute and Agrigento. I'm not sure if we want to see all three, but maybe it's worth it to do so. Perhaps those of you have been to all three would be kind enough to provide some advice?
PIAZZA ARMERINA QUESTION:
We will have a long drive from Menfi to Mt. Etna, and hoped to break it up with a stop at Piazza Armerina for visit to the museum and a nice lunch. Is this going to be crazy in late June? We really want to see the mosaics...
MT ETNA QUESTION:
Not a lot of info out there about people visiting the wineries on the northern slopes, but any insight/tips would be GREATLY appreciated!
RESTAURANT QUESTION :
Have a favorite in one of these places? Please share!!
Grazie mille!
dina
Here's the plan:
Palermo - Palco Room&Suites - 2 nights
Erice - Residence San Martino - 1 night
Menfi - La Foresteria Planeta Estate - 3 nights
Linguaglossa - Villa Neri Resort -- 3 nights (staying here, on the northern slopes of Etna for wine tasting)
PALERMO QUESTIONS:
1. When leaving Palermo, we are renting a car on a Monday morning at Avis on via crispi (yes, i know many of you cringe at the thought, but we've done a lot of driving in Italian cities and are ok with it) and hope to drive to the Monreale Cathedral on our way of town. Does anyone have any parking tips for the cathedral? We will then be heading straight to Erice. (Unless we should stop somewhere special along the way for lunch??)
2. We're thinking about taking the 1 hour train ride to Cefalu on a Sunday afternoon (like 2ish) to take a stroll and see the town. Not sure if it's worth it? Any recommendations on what to do there? Maybe just go to the beach?
GREEK TEMPLE QUESTION:
On the way to Menfi, we can stop at Segesta, and when we're in Menfi, we have close access to Selinute and Agrigento. I'm not sure if we want to see all three, but maybe it's worth it to do so. Perhaps those of you have been to all three would be kind enough to provide some advice?
PIAZZA ARMERINA QUESTION:
We will have a long drive from Menfi to Mt. Etna, and hoped to break it up with a stop at Piazza Armerina for visit to the museum and a nice lunch. Is this going to be crazy in late June? We really want to see the mosaics...
MT ETNA QUESTION:
Not a lot of info out there about people visiting the wineries on the northern slopes, but any insight/tips would be GREATLY appreciated!
RESTAURANT QUESTION :
Have a favorite in one of these places? Please share!!
Grazie mille!
dina
Jan 27th, 2016, 07:32 PM
#2
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Palermo - 2 nights"
Not much time for Palermo! Are you sure you can see everything you want to see in Palermo in that time?
"Cefalu.... Not sure if it's worth it?"
I skipped it, but its Cathedral was just added to the same UNESCO World Heritage situation that includes the cathedral of Monreale and the other Arab-Norman sites in Palermo.
"Perhaps those of you have been to all three would be kind enough to provide some advice?"
I was glad I visited all three and found them sufficiently different to justify doing so.
Segesta -- an incomplete (or possibly sham) Greek temple that you can enter and a Greek theater with spectacular views, both on a hill.
Selinunte -- 3 Greek temples in varying states of ruin on a vast grassy plain, one of which is reasonably intact and that you can enter; on a separate site nearer the sea, extensive ruins, not many of which are standing.
Segesta -- 1 Greek temple in a very good state of preservation, in part because it was converted to a Catholic church for much of its history (and shows traces of that use); several other temples in various states of ruin; all on a ridge with some amazing views. Most of these temples are ones you can walk around, but not in. Another vast area of ruins across the road, most of which are not standing. A few hotels in the area from which you can see the main temples lit at night.
Get, or go to a local library to see, one or more of the guidebooks that provide good, high quality photographs and site plans -- the National Geographic Traveler, Insight Guides, or Eyewitness Guide.
I trust you realize that Mt. Etna is not in the western part of the island?
There's a lot of information on this board that would answer most of your questions -- search for trip reports and especially planning threads, which will give you the input of MANY travelers with differing perspectives.
Enjoy!
Not much time for Palermo! Are you sure you can see everything you want to see in Palermo in that time?
"Cefalu.... Not sure if it's worth it?"
I skipped it, but its Cathedral was just added to the same UNESCO World Heritage situation that includes the cathedral of Monreale and the other Arab-Norman sites in Palermo.
"Perhaps those of you have been to all three would be kind enough to provide some advice?"
I was glad I visited all three and found them sufficiently different to justify doing so.
Segesta -- an incomplete (or possibly sham) Greek temple that you can enter and a Greek theater with spectacular views, both on a hill.
Selinunte -- 3 Greek temples in varying states of ruin on a vast grassy plain, one of which is reasonably intact and that you can enter; on a separate site nearer the sea, extensive ruins, not many of which are standing.
Segesta -- 1 Greek temple in a very good state of preservation, in part because it was converted to a Catholic church for much of its history (and shows traces of that use); several other temples in various states of ruin; all on a ridge with some amazing views. Most of these temples are ones you can walk around, but not in. Another vast area of ruins across the road, most of which are not standing. A few hotels in the area from which you can see the main temples lit at night.
Get, or go to a local library to see, one or more of the guidebooks that provide good, high quality photographs and site plans -- the National Geographic Traveler, Insight Guides, or Eyewitness Guide.
I trust you realize that Mt. Etna is not in the western part of the island?
There's a lot of information on this board that would answer most of your questions -- search for trip reports and especially planning threads, which will give you the input of MANY travelers with differing perspectives.
Enjoy!
Jan 27th, 2016, 10:59 PM
#4
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cefalu is a remarkably polarising place.
It's got a twelfth-thirteenth century cathedral which fans of Roger II regard as one of the world's great buildings. Virtually anyone with a taste for these things regards its central mosaic of Christ Pantocrator as the sublime work of ecclesiastical art anywhere, ever.
Then there's a dullish package holiday-style beach and associated services, and in between a typical, occasionally charming but mostly dismal, standard Italian Mediterranean big town. All a substantial slog away from your other proposed destinations.
If you're a fan of Norman Sicily, you'll want to go to Cefalu even if you have to walk there barefoot on broken glass. But the very fact that you're asking the question makes it certain you're not. For Cefalu's non-Norman attractions, I'd say it's worth stopping at if only if you're driving from Catania to Palermo anyway
Similarly Piazza Armerina. I really can't remember any decent food, though a recent trip to Palermo demonstrated how dramatically some Sicilian restaurants have improved over the past few decades. But the mosaics meant it was worth the (in those days) ghastly midsummer drive in an underpowered Fiat 25 cc with plastic seats before air conditioning hit Italian hire cars.
What we did do, though, that day was eat in Caltanisetta, a reasonably easy drive away. Gastronomically OK, back in the days when that would have been praise for central Sicily. As a spectacle however: unforgettable.
On the face of it, a one-horse town where the horse was still asleep indoors, the town's only visible feature appeared the astonishing density of old ladies in black. The only apparently open restaurant was extraordinarily well-housekept: wall to wall starched napery, gleaming glasses and deferential staff lightyears away from the grudging laddishness of other Sicilian waiters.
A handful of male, formally-dressed, middle-aged going on elderly, fellow-diners unaccountably kept their sunglasses on (and their ties done up and jackets on) for most of their visit. A few surprisingly gleaming upmarket cars waited for them outside. And nowhere outside even a hint of the graffiti, litter, disorder or mild beggary almost universal elsewhere in Sicily.
Whoever kept order in Caltanisetta clearly wasn't the Regione di Sicilia or the Italian government.
As far as where power lies in central Sicily, I doubt much has changed.
It's got a twelfth-thirteenth century cathedral which fans of Roger II regard as one of the world's great buildings. Virtually anyone with a taste for these things regards its central mosaic of Christ Pantocrator as the sublime work of ecclesiastical art anywhere, ever.
Then there's a dullish package holiday-style beach and associated services, and in between a typical, occasionally charming but mostly dismal, standard Italian Mediterranean big town. All a substantial slog away from your other proposed destinations.
If you're a fan of Norman Sicily, you'll want to go to Cefalu even if you have to walk there barefoot on broken glass. But the very fact that you're asking the question makes it certain you're not. For Cefalu's non-Norman attractions, I'd say it's worth stopping at if only if you're driving from Catania to Palermo anyway
Similarly Piazza Armerina. I really can't remember any decent food, though a recent trip to Palermo demonstrated how dramatically some Sicilian restaurants have improved over the past few decades. But the mosaics meant it was worth the (in those days) ghastly midsummer drive in an underpowered Fiat 25 cc with plastic seats before air conditioning hit Italian hire cars.
What we did do, though, that day was eat in Caltanisetta, a reasonably easy drive away. Gastronomically OK, back in the days when that would have been praise for central Sicily. As a spectacle however: unforgettable.
On the face of it, a one-horse town where the horse was still asleep indoors, the town's only visible feature appeared the astonishing density of old ladies in black. The only apparently open restaurant was extraordinarily well-housekept: wall to wall starched napery, gleaming glasses and deferential staff lightyears away from the grudging laddishness of other Sicilian waiters.
A handful of male, formally-dressed, middle-aged going on elderly, fellow-diners unaccountably kept their sunglasses on (and their ties done up and jackets on) for most of their visit. A few surprisingly gleaming upmarket cars waited for them outside. And nowhere outside even a hint of the graffiti, litter, disorder or mild beggary almost universal elsewhere in Sicily.
Whoever kept order in Caltanisetta clearly wasn't the Regione di Sicilia or the Italian government.
As far as where power lies in central Sicily, I doubt much has changed.
Jan 28th, 2016, 02:50 AM
#5
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 6,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is a big parking lot "behind" the cathedral in Moreale, down the slope.
If you are going to Cefalu around 2pm in summer, I doubt you will have many options for doing things other than stroll around the beach. Most things will be closed.
I am surprised you have been unable to find information about Etna's wineries online, since they are so trendy, but you might post questions on wine-focused message forums. Fodor's recently has adopted a system of blocking posts that contain links, so it is a waste of time for me to do some google searching for you, only to find out Fodor's won't accept my posts. But try a google search yourself for something like "etna's hot new wineries wine makers" and see what you get.
If you are going to Cefalu around 2pm in summer, I doubt you will have many options for doing things other than stroll around the beach. Most things will be closed.
I am surprised you have been unable to find information about Etna's wineries online, since they are so trendy, but you might post questions on wine-focused message forums. Fodor's recently has adopted a system of blocking posts that contain links, so it is a waste of time for me to do some google searching for you, only to find out Fodor's won't accept my posts. But try a google search yourself for something like "etna's hot new wineries wine makers" and see what you get.
Jan 30th, 2016, 02:14 PM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks so much for your replies!
kja --
thanks for your insight into the greek temples. we also are thinking we'd like to visit all three. wasn't sure if many people actually do that or pick one or two of the sites.
and i AM a little worried about not having enough time in Palermo, but also was worried everything might be closed down on a sunday afternoon -- hence the idea to head to cefalu (which may be closed up as well, as sandra points out). now i'm wondering if we should just head up to monreale on sunday afternoon in a cab or bus and not try to stop there on our way out of town.
that might allow us to stop somewhere else interesting on the way to Erice...
any ideas?
sandra --
my husband already knows which wineries he wants to visit, it's just that there websites are not that user friendly. i'm definitely going to try your suggestion for a google search, though. thanks!
flanneruk --
it looks like a 2.5 hr drive to piazza armerina and than a 2 hour drive onto our location at mt etna. AL FOGHER seems to be a highly recommended restaurant in that area, so i thought maybe if we arrived at the museum at 10, we could spend a couple of hours, have lunch at this nearby restaurant, and head off after lunch. luckily we will have AC in our car in june!
thanks again!!!
kja --
thanks for your insight into the greek temples. we also are thinking we'd like to visit all three. wasn't sure if many people actually do that or pick one or two of the sites.
and i AM a little worried about not having enough time in Palermo, but also was worried everything might be closed down on a sunday afternoon -- hence the idea to head to cefalu (which may be closed up as well, as sandra points out). now i'm wondering if we should just head up to monreale on sunday afternoon in a cab or bus and not try to stop there on our way out of town.
that might allow us to stop somewhere else interesting on the way to Erice...
any ideas?
sandra --
my husband already knows which wineries he wants to visit, it's just that there websites are not that user friendly. i'm definitely going to try your suggestion for a google search, though. thanks!
flanneruk --
it looks like a 2.5 hr drive to piazza armerina and than a 2 hour drive onto our location at mt etna. AL FOGHER seems to be a highly recommended restaurant in that area, so i thought maybe if we arrived at the museum at 10, we could spend a couple of hours, have lunch at this nearby restaurant, and head off after lunch. luckily we will have AC in our car in june!
thanks again!!!
Jan 30th, 2016, 03:31 PM
#8
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dina,
I also visited all three of the major temple sites and enjoyed all three. Each was unique and worth visiting. Obviously, Selinute call easily be visited from Menfi, but Agrigento would be a long drive. Perhaps on the way to your Etna lodging? I'm not familiar with it's location.
I also visited all three of the major temple sites and enjoyed all three. Each was unique and worth visiting. Obviously, Selinute call easily be visited from Menfi, but Agrigento would be a long drive. Perhaps on the way to your Etna lodging? I'm not familiar with it's location.
Jan 31st, 2016, 03:15 PM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dayle --
I had so much fun reading your trip report on Sicily! I discovered Foresteria Planeta through you, and we are really looking forward to staying there.
I was thinking we could maybe stop at Segesta on our way from Erice to Menfi, see Selinute during one of our late afternoons in Menfi, and only see Agrigento on the way to Etna if we skip the Casale in Piazza Armerina. I am leaning toward seeing the mosaics, though. I read somewhere (I think??) that you could get a glimpse of the temples in Agrigento from the highway?
I had so much fun reading your trip report on Sicily! I discovered Foresteria Planeta through you, and we are really looking forward to staying there.
I was thinking we could maybe stop at Segesta on our way from Erice to Menfi, see Selinute during one of our late afternoons in Menfi, and only see Agrigento on the way to Etna if we skip the Casale in Piazza Armerina. I am leaning toward seeing the mosaics, though. I read somewhere (I think??) that you could get a glimpse of the temples in Agrigento from the highway?
Jan 31st, 2016, 04:45 PM
#10
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow Dina, that is a difficult choice. I would recommend the Villa Romana over The Valle dei Templi in Agrigento of it must be a choice. Since you get to visit more often than I do, perhs you can see Agrigento on a fixture visit. The Arch Museum in Agrigento was excellent, but I did enjoy the Siracusa Arch museum more.
Hope you like La Foresteria! I'm sure you will.
Buon viaggio!
Hope you like La Foresteria! I'm sure you will.
Buon viaggio!
