Planning an itinerary in Southern France

Old Jul 24th, 2014, 07:44 AM
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Planning an itinerary in Southern France

I'm overwhelmed. I've spent quite a lot of time all over the south of France, but mostly as part of very long (3 to 5 month) vacations. But next September, the two of us would like to do that area. But we only have TWO weeks, sigh! Peter has never been anywhere in France except Paris (a couple of times). He's not big on lots of moving around, probably doing more like several stops of three or four nights each. We love pretty upscale (rather than quaint and funky) hotels. If we stay in Nice or Cannes, we'd probably do the Hyatt simply because we can usually do those for "free". For a really wonderful place (but hopefully less than $400 or $500 a night -- a great destination hotel might be a good starting point for a particular area or city. (Not into renting apartments this trip). But we really prefer being "in the thick of things" wherever we stay. A country hotel where we have to drive to dinner is NOT for us.

There is so much I want to show him, but I guess I need some outside help to narrow it down. We travel to eat! And we both love nice museums and beautiful landscapes. We can entertain ourselves by simply soaking up local atmosphere -- markets, walking, signtseeing.
What would be your favorite places to get a good feel? Aix for Provence -- or a smaller town? Maybe even do a full week there with a car to incorporate nice towns? Nice or Cannes for the Riviera? Should we try to incorporate Bordeaux (love the wineries) or Dordogne?

I guess I'm expecting the impossible -- someone to say "here's how I'd do the two weeks and where I'd stay". I just keep bouncing all over the place because I love it all and am having a hard time thinking what Peter might like the best. For what it's worth, when we did Italy a couple years ago, we loved staying in Siena a full week and exploring out from there with a few days in Venice first. More so than the year we hopped (by plane) from Barcelona to Amsterdam to Brugge to Paris.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 08:09 AM
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We were just in Provence near Avignon, mostly looking for endless fields of lavender (found near Sault) and for excellent dining (harder to find, but we survived). Here are three places we came across that might fit your requirements, at least for a week.

Hotel Les Bories & Spa near Gordes ... excellent Michelin 1* restaurant on premises, several other good dining options within a 20 minute drive, small 5* hotel with the best room we stayed in this trip. In September it fits your price range. http://www.hotellesbories.com/uk/hot...e-officiel.php

LE PHEBUS & SPA CARITA - Joucas ... close to Gordes, another small 5* spa with an excellent Michelin 1* restaurant. We dined there twice and it was our favorite spot for fine dining. In your price range. http://lephebus.com/fr_content/index.php

l'Oustau de Baumanière ... small 5* resort near Les Baux with a Michelin 2* restaurant, which we really enjoyed. This one might not be the best fit because it's pretty isolated and more expensive (the meal was double the cost of the Phebus meal, for example), but thought I'd mention it. This is a famous resort, where the celebrities stay, but I thought it was overpriced.
http://www.oustaudebaumaniere.com/en/home

With one or two of these plus a couple of nights in Avignon (several highly rated restaurants there) you'd likely have a very pleasant week. This is Peter Mayle country, with small hill-top towns making for pleasant day trips.

Then maybe drive north a bit to the Rhone valley wine country or even a bit further north to the Burgundy wine country (what I'd prefer) for the 2nd week ...

Just a couple of suggestions to get the ball rolling.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 08:48 AM
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Thanks, Bill.

"several other good dining options within a 20 minute drive"

This is the part that's hard for us. Neither of us will drive if we've been drinking. Firm rule. And there's no way we'll have dinner in France without drinking! That's the reason we really prefer staying in a town or "city" where we can walk to various restaurants and bars. And more than one night in our hotel's restaurant (even if it's wonderful) usually seems like overkill when there are so many more options sitting out there!
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 08:53 AM
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I consider two weeks a good chunk of time for one country, myself. No, I absolutely would not incorporate the Dordogne or Bordeaux into it. There are tons of wineries in Provence and around the Rhone, you know, if you are into that.

I'd do Nice, you could then rent a car and go west and visit smaller places in-between there and Aix, or keep it in Aix and visit the Luberon, etc., from there. I have a lovely country inn just outside Aix I stayed in once with a car. http://www.masdentremont.com/uk/index.php They do have an excellent restaurant but if you don't want that, there are some places in Aix itself or just on the edge where you could maybe walk to dinner, but parking inside the city will be somewhat of a burden, as usual. But easier there than in some bigger cities.

You could then maybe move a bit farther north than Aix and travel around the Drome area (including Gigondas and the wine area up there). Or even go west to Marseille which is different and an interesting city with lots to see, very eclectic. You could fly out of Marseille, no doubt.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 08:56 AM
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We had our best meal in Provence at l'Oustalet in Gigondas. It is owned by the Perrin family in Orange and they prepared a tasting menu for us featuring the family wines. I don't know how luxurious but they do have a few rooms.

I don't think you'd want to stay several days so that might rule it out for you.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 09:08 AM
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With two weeks I would want to choose two locations, three at most. As I'm sure you know, Nice is interesting in itself and a good base for exploring the coast and hill towns. Taking a car in and out for day trips might be a pain but you could take a car once or twice to explore St. Paul de Vence, Vence, Grasse, Tourette, etc. and take the train or bus to Cannes, Antibes, Vallauris, really any of the coast towns.

Loved the Hotel Martinez in Cannes, right on the Croisette. On a fine day, the restaurants at beach level are fun for a long, lazy lunch. I remember having good but not memorable food. I never stayed at the Columbe d'Or in St. Paul but had a very good dinner there.

Aix en Provence is well-located for touring Provence, have a look at the Villa Gallici, www.villagallici.com It's totally over the top in a good way. Easy walk into town plus it has it's own excellent restaurant and a buffet breakfast that will keep you going for quite awhile. I would love to stay there again. Because the villa is a bit north of the center of town, you can drive in and out of the town with relative ease.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 09:10 AM
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its not it's

I hate when I do that!
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 09:28 AM
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Years ago (I know we were staying there when Princess Di was killed) we stayed in Aix for a week -- the (St) Augustine Hotel??? I'll have to look it up. Yes, I'm thinking that might be a great base for the Luberon and the entire region -- and they had their own parking. The hotel right on the Cours Mirabeau -- which was great for just popping out for a stroll morning, noon, or night.
I know Peter will go wild with his camera in Roussillon, for example.

Maybe we could do Aix, Nice, and for a third do somewhere like Chamonix, for a total change (and close to Geneva for easier flying)? Or end up in Lyon instead of the mountains. What divine dining in the old town of Lyon!
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 09:57 AM
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This one?

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev..._Provence.html
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 10:08 AM
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Yes, that's the place.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 10:41 AM
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NP; Take a bus trip from Nice to www.chateaueza.com and have a drink and app on the outside veranda. Magical for us looking down at the sea from perhaps 1700 feet up.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 10:42 AM
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P.S. And I'm not suggesting two buck chuck. lol
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 10:51 AM
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Oh yea, Iris, Eze is a must from Nice.

Cathinjoetown, I just remembered the "bad" think about Des Augustines -- they have no showers, just hand held device in an open bathtub. Really hate that for an otherwise pretty deluxe hotel.

I just send them an email to see if that was still true and got almost an instant response. No "real" showers.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 11:03 AM
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Patrick,

It's a bit pricey but I loved eveything about Villa Gallici. I am no walker (knees are shot) but the walk down to the Cours isn't bad and there are always taxis.

We stayed there about eight years ago--i'm pretty sure we found a three-night package. Can't remember the showers.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 11:33 AM
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To me the heart of tourist Provence - the Avignon/Arles area has so so much to see and do it a compact area - Les Baux, St-Remy, the Pont du Gard, Uzes, Nimes, the Camargue, etc (and wineries in Chateauneuf-du-Pape) that is makes a wondrous week stay or so.

As does the French Rivers - day trip to St-Paul-de-Vence, Vence, Eze, Monaco (yes just for the novelty and if you like upscale...) and on and on.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 11:37 AM
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How about a tour themed around the various Roman ruins?
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 01:18 PM
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In Lyon, we stayed at the Sofitel and thought it was very nice.

Cote d'Azur we stayed at La Voile d'Or in St Jean Cap Ferrat. There are many restaurants walking distance around the harbor in St Jean Cap Ferrat and we found it a convenient base to travel east or west.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 01:35 PM
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"I know Peter will go wild with his camera in Roussillon, for example. "

Try Rustrel for a stunning site with far fewer people.
http://www.colorado-provencal.com
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 02:17 PM
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We stayed in Les Baux at Oustau de Baumiere that was mentioned above. We were given a little cottage a few yards down from the main building, beautifully appointed. You can walk back after dinner.
Also, when we were in Nice two years ago, we enjoyed some of these recommendations from the NYT:
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/13/tr...h-riviera.html
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 03:41 PM
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Oh, DebitNM, I wasn't familiar with that, but it isn't the formations at Roussilion that will impress Peter, it's all those colorful and weathered buildings -- every building is so picturesque.
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