twoflower

We are planning a driving tour of the northern half of Italy for Spring 2012. Our tentative itinerary has us driving from Viterbo (or Orvieto?) to Siena via Todi, Spoleto, Tevi, Spello, Assissi, Perugia and Cortona. We think that's too much to do in one hit and are wondering where best to break it up with a 2-night stay en route. Perugia, Assissi or somewhere else? We'd welcome recommemdations based on availability and price of accommodation and eateries, centrality to local sights, and the character and charm of the town itself. Suggestions for moderate-priced accommodation (good B&B to modest hotel) would also be very much appreciated. Many thanks.

castlevisitor

We stayed in Assisi in 2007 at Hotel Ideale. It was very easy - onsite parking, magical views, clean and quiet, nice breakfast, not luxurious but very accommodating. We visited the Rocca and walked through the town in early evening. It was uncrowded and authentic feeling. The next morning we visited the Basilica and left immediately thereafter. This summer we returned to Italy and visited the Basilica again during midday and it felt completely different. It could have beeen the time of our visit (midday in July vs. early morning in May in 2007.)

We would have gladly returned to Hotel Ideale in July of this year, but our kids wanted to see Perugia, so we stayed at The Primavera Minihotel there. It was very clean and perfectly accomodating. Views from the windows in our room were stunning. No breakfast included, but we usually get a capuchino and chocolate croissant for breakfast at a bar anyway. Taking the escalators up to the town was unique and fun. We pack light, so it wasn't inconvenient and the hotel is a short distance from the escalator (I don't care for toting my suitcase all through a town.) We saw the Collegio del Cambio, the flea market, some churches, the fortress, had pizza at Mediteranian pizza (fantastic pizza prepared in front of you.) There was more to see, so we'll be back to spend more time someday.

Perugia is bigger than Assisi and is a college town. Accordingly, we ran into more young adults than families. Perugia seemed vibrant and full of medieval alleyways to explore. Assisi seemed peaceful and charming - villagelike - (except for the area adjacent to the Basilica in the middle of the day in July.) Both qualities have advantages. It just depends on what you prefer or want from this visit. I hope that helps.

twoflower

Excellent feedback "Castlevisitor". But what a choice! Perugia "vibrant and full of medieval alleyways to explore" and Assissi "peaceful and charming (and) village-like"? I love the sound of both places! And the hotels you stayed at sound nice too. I don't think you've made my choice any easier, but you've at least given me a "feel" for each place.

You mention escalators in Perugia- it sounds like you mean outdoor escalators for negotiating steep streets. Have I got that right? I guess Assissi is equally hilly?

twoflower

Sorry catlevisitor, I forgot to thank you. But I guess you could tell I appreciated your feedback! A further thought: if Assissi is quieter and more village-like, does that mean it has less to offer for choices for eating/drinking at night?

Your good ratings for both places is making me reconsider that whole section of our itinerary. I was driving Narni, Spoleto, Trevi, Spello, Assissi, Perugia. Are all of these places must-sees? I could instead take a more direct route via Todi to Perugia, leaving out Narni, Spoleto, Trevi & Spello, but giving correspondingly more time for Perugia & Assissi. What do people think?

joannyc

Haven't been to Perugia, but I loved, loved, loved Assisi!

I very much enjoyed my dinner at MedioEvo in Assisi.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...si_Umbria.html

zoecat

<<Your good ratings for both places is making me reconsider that whole section of our itinerary. I was driving Narni, Spoleto, Trevi, Spello, Assissi, Perugia. Are all of these places must-sees? I could instead take a more direct route via Todi to Perugia, leaving out Narni, Spoleto, Trevi & Spello, but giving correspondingly more time for Perugia & Assissi. What do people think?>>

All of those places are worth seeing and experiencing. but not with the short amount of time you will have to do it. Plan another trip in the future where you can spend a week or two just in Umbria.

I like your new idea much better. Have lunch in Todi.

I suggest you stay in or just outside of Assisi. You could then take the train to Perugia and not have to drive. Perugia is not a fun city to drive in. Assisi is quite nice in the evenings after the crowds have vacated.

twoflower

Thanks everyone. After reading these comments I'm leaning toward 3 nights in Assissi, with a daytrip to Perugia (perhaps by bus, although the escalator travel from Perugia's Piazza Partigiani carpark up through Rocca Paolina sounds like a buzz)!

The direct route via Todi is a tempting option, although it means missing Narni, Spoleto, Trevi, & Spello. But I wonder if visiting all of these is just too much of a similar thing? I've been reading a British AA publication about drives in Umbria, and (from its description) the only one of those 4 that really grabbed my interest was Trevi for its maze of winding, mosaic-like cobbled alleys.

But then the British AA does rather confine itself to architectural descriptions at the expense of other aspects that might make a place attractive, which is why I welcome any further input I can get from people on this forum. So, many thanks, and keep the comments coming if you think I'm getting it wrong!

StCirq

I vastly preferred Perugia and did not find Assisi to be peaceful or village-like in the least. Perugia seemed far more "real" to me.

But then, the last time I was in Umbria I was there for 8 weeks total and only occasionally visited cities. I preferred the tiny villages and far corners of the area to ANY of the cities (though Perugia was my favorite). Loved the Lago Trasimeno area. I stayed in tiny Paciano and enjoyed it and nearby Panicale and other tiny towns immensely. Also the remote spa towns up in the hills/mountains - excellent!

CUFFLNX

Assisi is truly medieval and not a flat spot anywhere. The charm is in fact staying overnight and appreciating the ambience after the day trippers are gone.

Restaurants
Pallotta Trattoria
Vicolo della Volta Pinta
075-812649

Paradiso Le Terme
Via Padre Antonio Giorgi, 6
075-812843

Fontemaggio s.r.l.*****
Ristorante “La Stalla”
Via Eremo delle Carceri, 8

joannyc

I think the charm of Assisi does include the nights without daytrippers but also getting off the via San Franscesco... very few tourists will be found wandering around the back lanes and most are lanes which hardly fit a car!

I loved exploring all the tiny streets and alleys! Beautiful stone homes with beautiful flower boxes. Go to the Cathedral of San Rufino where both St. Francis and St. Clare were baptized. Walk around that area... it is gorgeous!

chiarachiara

Another vote for Assisi - just because I love it so much. As the others said - the true charm lies in wondering the back streets, and to be there after the tour buses left.

For reasonable, but clean Hotels, I can recommend Hotel San Rufino and Hotel Sole. They are also both very central to the main Piazza - and not far from Piazza Matteoti, if you need to park your car there.

A_Brit_In_Ischia

For a sight of Perugia, and some of the things to see and do there, you'll find pictures a New Year visit we made some time back on:

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/perugia

Peter

castlevisitor

The outdoor escalators get you up to the city of Perugia. Once you are there, it is flat in many places. Rocca Paolina was fun to explore. I completely agree with Cufflnx that Assisi is only peaceful and village-like at night after daytrippers have gone, and also very early morning. When we last visited mid-day it was overrun. Many more restaurant choices in Perugia than Assisi because it is a larger town, but I remember having a good meal in Assisi - cannot recall where. The other places you mention are also good stops - we liked Todi.

St. Cirq - I'll have to note the small towns you mentioned for our next visit. Sounds lovely! And 8 weeks - I'm envious.

Anne