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Pedraza de la Sierra. With notes on Toledo, Caceres, Jarandilla la Vera and Segovia

Pedraza de la Sierra. With notes on Toledo, Caceres, Jarandilla la Vera and Segovia

Old May 25th, 2006, 03:21 AM
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Pedraza de la Sierra. With notes on Toledo, Caceres, Jarandilla la Vera and Segovia

In early May I spent one week in Spain with overnights in the places mentioned above. The focus of my travels, in addition to seeing some of the main sights, was food. In summary:

The trip was 7 nights, split between Toledo (2 nights); Caceres (1 night); Jarandilla la Vera (1 night); Segovia (1 night); Pedraza (2 nights).

We flew Iberia from JFK to Madrid. The food in Iberia economy class is laughably poor. Otherwise, I have no hesitation in recommending this airline as service was no better and no worse than other European or American carriers in economy class.

We arrived at Madrid's Terminal 4. This is a recently opened terminal which doubles the size of Barajas airport. It is absolutely spectacular and worth a trip to the airport from central Madrid for anyone with an interest in modern architecture. The designer was the UK's Richard Rodgers along with the Spanish firm Estudio Lamela. You can see it here:

http://www.richardrogers.co.uk/rende...Ds=1,6,12,1189

For anyone who needs to make a connecting flight here, keep in mind that the place is huge. There are two new terminals connected by an air train. Signs estimate the travel distance between your destination and the departure gates and in many cases, the estimated time is 20 minutes or so.

I had reserved a car through Autoeurope. An 8 day rate for the smallest automatic cost USD$673 plus about 30 Euro airport charge to be paid after return of the car. We were upgraded at no charge to a Mercedes A class small wagon-type vehicle. This car was wonderful, very comfy, and with lots of room in the trunk. The agent was apologetic that it was not the latest model although it looked brand new to me.

We arrived about 7am in Madrid and were quickly on our way to Toledo, where our first overnight was to be at Hostal Cardenal. The roads are great and there was no traffic, as this was early Sunday morning. I was using Michelin red map Castilla-La Mancha-Extremadura. This map, although recently purchased in New York, was out of date as far as route numbers. A few newer roads were not shown. Not sure what the difference is between the Michelin Red series and the Yellow but would like to know for our next trip.

The trip took about 70 minutes or so. The Hostal Cardenal is at the edge of the Cacso Historico and is virtually fitted into the old city walls with a large garden in front. There is a free parking lot in front of the Bisagra Gate (where Alfonso VI entered the reconquered city with El Cid!) and supervised parking someplace else close by. We left the car out front in the open lot, making sure to tip the self-appointed watchman who is "on duty" during the day. The hotel clerk assured me that this should be fine and it was certainly convenient. There is a bit of a schlep through the gardens to the hotel entrance with a few sets of short steps so anyone with mobility issues might not choose this accommodation. Toledo, I believe, is the seat of the Catholic church in Spain and this hotel is the former residence of the Archbishop of Toledo who became a cardinal in 1779. The hotel dates from the late 18th Century. The gardens, shaded with mulberry trees, take their inspiration from the Generalife. Our room was not large and the decoration is more austere than the public areas but it was comfortable. A short walk from the front gate of the hotel, set into the city walls, takes you to a series of escalators which rise to the edge of the historic center. Toledo is not easy to navigate for a newcomer, so make sure you have a good map and wear cushy shoes as it is hilly! Our room (115 facing the gardens) cost 106 Euro; breakfast is 7 Euro per person.

After washing up, we paid a visit to the 12th Century synagogue Santa Maria La Blanca. This is a gem, all white with horseshoe arches and Moorish tracery. There are no Jews left in Toledo and the building was later used as a Catholic church.

Before arrival I had reserved a table at the hotel's restaurant for lunch. When we arrived at 3pm the place was filled with what appeared to be local people, many celebrating family events such as first communion. The party spilled outside to the table in the garden. My partner ordered the set menu for about 20 E. which included a main dish of stewed quail. I had the roast baby lamb. Price was 53 Euro for 2 with water and La Mancha wine. The atmosphere here is wonderful and the restaurant is beautiful. The roast lamb, however, is not in the same class as that which we enjoyed a few days later around Segovia, Sepulveda, and Pedraza. For anyone with an interest in the foods of this region, Author Janet Mendel has a new book in English, "Cooking from the Heart of Spain," which covers Castilla La Mancha.

After lunch and a small walk, we rested and now, so shall I, to return soon...
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Old May 25th, 2006, 04:52 AM
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Hi ekscrunchy,
Can hardly wait for the next installment, particularly the "on the lechazo trail in the Segovia province" one!

Regards,
Maribel
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Old May 25th, 2006, 06:09 AM
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Maribel..keep tuned and you will read it soon. Pedraza was the highlight of the week. I cannot imagine a more beautiful town anywhere in Europe!
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Old May 25th, 2006, 04:13 PM
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After breakfast at Hostal Cardenal the next morning we set off with three objectives: 1. Cathedral 2. Church of San Tome 3. Mazapan.

Having seen a long line on the previous afternoon, we arrived shortly before the 10am opening at the Iglesia de San Tome and were the first two persons inside when the doors opened. For a few minutes, we beheld El Greco's 1586 masterwork with only a couple of others in the room. Thrilling.

I should add here that we considered hiring a private guide for a tour of the city but the high price of a three-hour tour (about 140 Euro) dissuaded us. There are two companies that offer guided city tours on Thursdays through Tuesdays if a minimum number of people sign up; unfortunately this was not the case when we were there so we muddled along with our Cadogan guide. The companies that (sometimes) offer tours are:
www.toledopaisajes.com tel: 606-826-631
www.conocetoledo.com tel: 628-268-471


I don't know if these are offered in English.

Next we visited the Cathedral of Toledo, "la mas gotica de las espanolas y la mas espanola de las catedrales goticas," according to the brochure.
I will not attempt any description here (better done by guidebooks) except to say that this is one of the single most impressive sights in Spain and one of the most spectacular religious buildings I have seen in Europe. Set aside a minimum of two hours here. The highlights for me were the main altar, lathered with gold leaf, the stone and alabaster friezes in the choir stalls, and the famous Transparente. I am not generally a "cathedral person," but we were both overwhelmed.

After all the ooohing and aaahing, I needed a break and I found it not far away at Santo Tome, Obrador de Mazapan. Marzipan is one of Toledo's culinary claims to fame. The proportion of almonds to sugar is what determines, in part, the quality of the final product. In this shop, which has a branch in the Plaza Zocodover, there is marzipan in many permutations and I had to stop myself for trying several of each piece. Delicioso! This would make a great gift and I am sorry I did not buy a few boxes to take home, although I am not sure if they would have lasted longer than a few days in my hands.

With our minds on food, we then explored the main market near the Plaza Mayor. Excellent prices on my favorite Magno La Toja black soap here..less than 2 Euro for a four pack. The market is open until about 2pm except Sundays.

The rest of the afternoon we spent wandering around the city before heading back to the hotel to change for dinner. We drove the short ride from the hotel to the Parador. The view from the terrace here calls to mind El Greco's View of Toledo which hangs in New York's MetropolitanMuseum. I recommend having drinks here at sunset. We liked the view so much that we decided to stay for dinner. The paradors offer consistently good food in often spectacular settings for a fair price and this was no exception. Total for one tasting menu and one "parador" menu with a bottle of Navarra rose and water was 83 Euro. (Shame on me, I cannot remember details of the meal apart from the Natillas for dessert!) The view from the window tables is superb.

I will post more within a few days......stay tuned!
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Old May 25th, 2006, 07:15 PM
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Enjoying your report -- Am familiar with Segovia, Caceres and Toledo but am not familiar with Jarandilla la Vera, so am curious to hear about it. Keep the food details coming; it's been almost a year since I was in Spain and after reading the great "jamon" post here on Fodor's I am craving Spainish food and wine!
Thanks!
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Old May 25th, 2006, 09:13 PM
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This is so fun to hear about and I am dying to hear about Segovia! God, I miss that city so much! I am going to go for a visit this year, though, perhaps just all by myself. I have a few people I need to do a pilgrimmage for, and Segovia is so much the best destination.
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Old May 26th, 2006, 04:48 AM
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I am really happy that you are enjoying so far, especially the food details. I will write the next installment soon, probably after this holiday weekend. Claire, I loved Segovia..much more life there than in Toledo!
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Old May 26th, 2006, 06:59 AM
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Hi ekscrunchy,
Thanks for the new installment!

I agree with you about Segovia being a much livelier (and less dependent on tourism) city than Toledo. I find Toledo fascinating for historical/religious/cultural/artistic reasons, but I also personally find it on the somber side. But that somber, brooding quality makes walking its narrow and dark streets at night an unforgettable experience!

Don't know if you've seen Luis Buñuel’s “Tristana”, with Catherine Deneuve, based on the Benito Pérez Galdós novel. It was filmed in Toledo.

Thanks for the urls for tours. The tourist office across from the Cathedral entrance used to give tours in summer, but I can't remember if they were given in English. Great to have other sources.

I'm eagerly waiting the Extremadura portion as well! We have very happy memories of explorations in the Vera Valley.

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Old May 26th, 2006, 07:47 AM
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I knew you would!!!!!
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Old May 26th, 2006, 04:55 PM
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.........the Parador Conde de Orgaz in Toledo should be on any visitors itinerary because of the spectacular view of the city from the terrace. Sunset is the ideal time to visit and have a drink outside. there were quite a few photographers intent on capturing the scene through their lenses. We saw very few Americans here, or elsewhere on the trip..the majority of our fellow tourists were from Spain. The building itself, while modern, is very handsome. We had considered staying at this parador but decided against it because of the cost, and because we thought that access to the city would be problematic but in reality, it could not be simpler. And if you travel off-season, parking in the lot in front of the Bisagra Gate is a cinch. Other options outside the city which might bear considering are mentioned in this piece from the New York Times.

http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/01/1...el/15surf.html

.....The next day, day 3 of our trip, began with the buffet breakfast at Hostal Cardenal, after which we packed up our car and headed for Extremadura.

Much has been wwritten about the harsh and unforgiving landscape of this region and how the geography contributed to the exodus of many of its young men to the New World. What I had not realized was the impact of the wool trade on Extremadura. The primacy of sheepherding, due to the value of Merino wool, elevated the status of herdsmen to the detriment of farmers. Rather than be cultivated for food, the lands were left open for grazing; this led to defoliation of the land and the eventual emigration of many of its citizens. At one time, three million sheep each year traveled the migratory paths(Las Canadas Reales) decreed by the King through this land to find pasture during the seasonal migrations .

I expected a truly harsh and sterile landscape but in reality there were many spots of beauty with rolling hills, green fields of wheat and other grasses, and tracts of forest. The road from Toledo to Trujillo, which was to be our first stop, skirts the Parque of Monfrague, which is apparently a haven for birdwatchers and is home to many species of flora and fauna including Iberian lynx, imperial eagle and wild boar.

Our time was very very rushed. With a more leisurely pace, we would have made several detours along and close to this route including stops at: Talavera de la Reina to look at the famous ceramics: Lagartera, source of embroidered linens that can be found in the houses of European royalty including the King of Spain; and perhaps even a winery.

The Meseta of Extremadura and La Mancha is the home of 2/3s of the country's vinyards and while most of the wines have long been derided by some, there are some promising developments. The new Osborne Solaz winery in Malpica del Tajo, offers tours for 3 Euro; their wine has been well received in the US. Here is the website with information:

http://www.osbornesolaz.com/home_index.html

Alas, due to our time constraits we could do none of these things so we pressed on, arriving in Trujillo before lunch. Trujillo, of course, is famous as the birthplace of Francisco Pizarro, and of Francisco Orellana, the first European to explore the Amazon.
Pizarro's statue (man and horse wear conquistador helmets) dominates the glorious Plaza Mayor. After parking the car (NOT in the Plaza!!) we stopped into the tourist office on the Plaza for a map and brochure and spent an hour walking around the small town and admiring the stone palaces with heraldic shields affixed to their facades.

Having entered Extremadura, the foods of the region were much on my mind so we stopped into a provisions shop near the Parador (where we had parked the car). It was there that I had my first glimpse of Torta del Casar, the legendary cheese of the region which is almost impossible to find here in the US. More on this very soon!!

The shop was stocked with some of the delicacies of the region including dehesa jamon, La Serena cheese, various jams and preserves, and the famous smoked paprika of La Vera. I bought a mini of the eaux de vie (not sure of name in Spanish) made from cherries of the Jerte Valley to sample in the car (mmmmmm..wish I had bought the large bottle; these can be had in Barajas aiport). My most interesting purchase here, though, was a bottle of El Tio Pico pollen from Las Hurdes (I thought of you, Claire, and the Bunuel film which I have not yet seen). This jar of pollen now sits in front of me as I type and I still have not figured out what to do with it. I asked in the shop and, after conferring with several of the lady shoppers, was as puzzled as they were. Various opinions of its use ranged from "making men strong" to "taking in tea." One lady advised me that it would bring on terrible allergies. In New York, fennel pollen is sprinkled on dishes by some well-known restaurant chefs but this does not appear to be fennel pollen..it looks like...well, it looks like pollen!!!! It is quite pretty with the golden grains pressed into the tidy little jar.

I seem to have been derailed a little here......more to come soon: Arrival in Caceres and the trip's first sampling of Jamon Iberico and the first taste ever of the heavenly Torta del Casar.
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Old May 26th, 2006, 05:44 PM
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One detail I omitted: The painting which dominates the church of San Tome in Toledo is The Burial of the Count of Orgaz. The church opens at 10am and I recommend getting there early in order to avoid possible lines/queues in high season.

Maribel, I have placed the Bunuel film on my list to rent..along with his Tierra Sin Pan about Las Hurdes. Thank you, as always.
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Old May 26th, 2006, 06:49 PM
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Hi ekscrunchy,
Yes, the image of Extremadura as a very dry, inhospitable and infertil land (like the landscape of Las Hurdes) is very different from the beauty we experienced.

We planned our latest trip to coincide with the cherry blossom festival in the Jerte Valley, "El festival del cerezo en flor" which began the penultimate wkd. of March. We approached Extremadura from Gredos in the Avila province, and the drive from Tornavacas to Jarandilla was absoluely lovelyˇ
And on our way to the Jarandilla Parador, we managed to hit the village of Cabezuela del Valle right after mass. and we happily joined the long line of villagers on the town square for the festival event of the day: a degustation of "patatas revolconas"-an artery clogging but irresistible dish of mashed potatoes, pancetta , green peppers, onions seasoned with the prize of the region, that smoked paptrika, pimentón de la Vera. It was served from steaming iron pots by the ladies of the village and yum, what a treat!
We also picked up some cherries packed in aguardiente (eaux de vie) and sampled that yummy and runny torta del Casar every chance we got!

We were suprised by the quality of the red wines from the D.O, Ribera del Guadiana, but they're hard to find in the US.

We'll put the Osborne Solaz winery on our list for our next visit. We made our last night before returning to Barajas at the stunning and newly renovated Parador de Oropesa (what a beautiful Parador) just so that we could spend an afternoon of lace shopping at Lagartera and ceramics at Puente de Arzobispo and Talavera. Next time have to bring more carry on bags!

Eagerly awaiting Jarandilla!
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Old May 26th, 2006, 06:52 PM
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Hi ekscrunchy,
Yes, the image of Extremadura as a very dry, inhospitable, infertil land (like the landscape of Las Hurdes) is very different from the beauty we experienced.

We planned our latest trip to coincide with the cherry blossom festival in the Jerte Valley, "El festival del cerezo en flor" which began the penultimate wkd. of March. We approached Extremadura from Gredos in the Avila province, and the drive from Tornavacas to Jarandilla was absoluely lovely!

And on our way to the Jarandilla Parador, we managed to hit the village of Cabezuela del Valle at the perfect momento: right after mass, when we happily joined the long line of villagers on the town square for the festival event of the day: a degustation of "patatas revolconas"-an artery clogging but irresistible dish of mashed potatoes, pancetta , green peppers, onions seasoned with the prize of the region, that smoked paptrika, pimentón de la Vera. It was served from steaming iron pots by the ladies of the village and yum, what a treat!
We also picked up some cherries packed in aguardiente (eaux de vie) and sampled that yummy and runny torta del Casar every chance we got!

We were suprised by the quality of the red wines from the D.O, Ribera del Guadiana, but they're hard to find in the US.

We'll put the Osborne Solaz winery on our list for our next visit. Thanks for the tip.

We spent our last night before returning to Barajas at the stunning and newly renovated Parador de Oropesa (what a beautiful Parador with majestic and vast sitting rooms) just so that we could spend an afternoon of lace shopping at Lagartera and ceramics at Puente de Arzobispo and Talavera. Next time have to bring more carry on bags!

Eagerly awaiting your next chapter!
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Old May 27th, 2006, 08:11 AM
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I am loving this report! I have not been to Extremadura since 1998 when we went on a family vacation (which was incredibly memorable), but this summer I am trying to get to la Coronada, a friend's pueblo.

And now for a memory that always makes me laugh. My Art History and History classes went on a field trip to Toledo, but once we got there and toured for a bit, everyone went to the bar. My teacher (and bonus mother) said that she wanted me to see the Martyrdom of Conde Orgaz, so instead of me going to the bars with my friends, I was in line with her (not complaining, just observing). We got our tickets and headed into Santo Tome and she started to tell me all about the history of the piece. Then, as we got closer, she asked what the composition reminded me of and I looked but could come up with nothing. Well, she turned my head and said "Don't you see? It is a vagina! The count is dead, and his soul is headed back into the vagina, into the womb, and there is Christ." Well, as Spaniards are amazing pantomimes, she starts with all of these really graphic hand gestures and I lost it when she took her left hand and made a fist, holding it chest level, then took her riight hand and "penetrated" the fist from the bottom up, going all the way up to her elbow, then opening her right hand, wiggling the fingers and saying "this is the count in the womb."
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Old May 27th, 2006, 08:43 AM
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Hi ekscrunchy, it is pollen ...
I have found a website from the Cáceres Chamber of Commerce,
http://www.camaracaceres.es/empresas/763/

and they explain it as if it was the panacea to all pains and sorrows ... mainly for the brains ...

I really don´t know what you can do with it ... maybe pour it on the breakfast cereals ? Personally, the La Vera paprika is far more useful

There was also a guy in Las Hurdes who created the Ciripolen, a mix of polen and honey and herbs that allegedly was wonderful for men´s baldness.

Rgds, Cova
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Old May 27th, 2006, 09:13 AM
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Goodness. I have a whole new appreciation of El Greco thanks to laclaire's art history teacher!

Loving the report; it is bringing back an intense memory of driving through Extremadura with my family a long time ago...
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Old May 27th, 2006, 09:15 AM
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Great story, Claire!

...after our short visit to Trujillo, we drove on to Caceres. This was my second visit to the city, having been once for lunch en route to Sevilla in the 1970s. What I did not realize was how lively and young the city seemed. Much has been written about the historic center, ringed partially by Roman walls and crisscrossed by cobbled streets lined with imposing 15th and 16th Century residences. But there is also a university and a good-sized newer portion of the city outside the historic center so the overall impression is of a place full of life, not a stagnant historical monument. A few days after arrival, the WOMAD (world music and dance) festival was to take place here and the town was quite exuberant.

If you have reserved at the Parador, as we did, make sure to have their directions in hand upon arrival in the city; you need to make your presence known through an intercom at Plaza Santa Clara which will allow barricades to lower, permitting your car to pass through into the historic center, where there are strict driving regulations.

The parador is a monumnetal building built into a 14th Century palace. Like other buildings in the city, this one is built hard by its neighbors; defense was on the minds of the earlier inhabitants and the city's buildings huddle together for protection insdie the walls. The Parador is set around a set of arched courtyards. Our room was #214 (135 Euro). The room was not large; it opened onto the street unlike some others which have courtyard or garden views.

The Tourist Office is right across the narrow street so we stopped in for a map; there are guided tours given several times a day although we choose to walk around on our own with my trusty guidebook. Much of the joy of the city is in wandering around and admiring the exteriors of the stone palaces and churches, many affixed with those marvelous heraldic shields on the facades. There are many informative signs explaining the various buildings and churches so while a guided tour would have been good, you can navigate easily on your own. Again, we saw very few English speaking tourists and no Americans here.

Like many towns in Castille and Extremadura, Caceres is home to many storks who build their nests stop the towers and roofs of the old buildings. This is a truly marvelous and unforgettable sight in springtime when the mother stands sentinel day and night over the little ones in the nest, whose tiny heads bob up and down, visited from time to time by the male stork who brings snacks. Later that week we would have our very own stork family right outside our terrace in Pedraza and this would become one of the most enduring memories of our trip.

After unpacking, the first order of business was food. My partner does not share my voracious appetite so a large lunch was out. The lovely man at the front desk at the parador suggested, in reponse to my inquiry, that we head for Meson San Juan in the Plaza of the same name, next to the Melia Caceres hotel. He assured us that the quality of their jamones was excellent.

This place proved to be a good choice, and I will always remember it, not only for the Jamon (13 Euro for half racion of Dehesa) but as the first place where a taste of Torta del Casar (8 Euro half racion) passed my ever-so-willing lips. The half racion was served with warm bread and as I write this I am in the throes of longing for more..and more of this heavenly cheese. The Meson is a casual bar with a lively local following who gather to snack and to watch the inevitable futbol on the tv. This is the kind of friendly place I love to patronize in Spain. Wonder of wonders, we actually became a bit interested in the mystifying game of futbol...a good thing because later in the week there was feverish excitement over Sevilla's wins and we were right there on our hotel tvs cheering them on.

Meson San Juan, Plaza San Juan #3, Caceres. Specialist in "Jamones y Embutidos de Extremadura and Quesos de Caceres."

Some information on Torta del Casar, which has limited availability here in the US:

http://www.tortadelcasar.org/ingles.html

http://www.artisanalcheese.com/prodi...p?number=10551
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Old May 27th, 2006, 09:28 AM
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My mother has taken pollen everyday from that same brand for years It's a very good reconstituent (lots of minerals, magnesium, calcium..) and also carbohidrates and proteines. It's not useful when you are bald..but it is (I can say it !) to make your hair stronger and brilliant !! You have to take it some months to have results, though.
A spoonful with milk or juice after breakfast is the usual amount (about half a wine glass of milk or juice).
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Old May 27th, 2006, 09:32 AM
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Hi ekscrunchy,
We'll put the Mesón de San Juan in Cáceres at the top of our list for a next Extremadura journey. Thanks for the tip. Gourmetour recommends it too.
Another link for Spanish cheeses:
www.cheesefromspain.com

I'm really enjoying your writing!
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Old May 27th, 2006, 05:40 PM
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Hi ekscrunchy,
I think you said in another post that you have the new Janet Mendel cookbook, "My Kitchen in Spain". So do I, and I just realized that she had a recipe for "patatas revolconas". Have you tried it yet?
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