Paros, Greece - Off the Beaten Path on a Road Well Travelled
Sep 18th, 2005, 07:20 AM
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Paros, Greece - Off the Beaten Path on a Road Well Travelled
Hi Folks. "Better late than never" applies here I guess. I must confess to have been a "lurker" on these Boards for months, taking advantage of the great information from fellow travellers before our 17 day trip to Athens, Paros and Santorini in May of this year. I had great intentions to share information and do some amateur writing but time got away. When I popped on the Boards today I thought I'd put this in - was not sure where and how - had put it in Tripadvisor but it seems buried in their massive site. I have another report/review on Ikies which I may post separately. I'm hoping to finish one on our walking excursion from Oia to Fira in Santorini which was awesome.
Thanks again to everyone and the regular Fodorites such as Brotherleelove whose great wealth of info on Santorini was bang-on and made our trip spectacular. Athens and the Greek Islands exceeded our expectations. We want to go back.
Here it is....sorry for the length
________________________________________
Off the Beaten Path – on a Path Well Travelled
On the Byzantine Road from Lefkes to the Sea
Paros – May 2005
Memorable and extraordinary experiences on a vacation are often the ones least expected, unplanned or completely spontaneous. Sometimes such moments are planned, but surprise you by being far more incredible than you had imagined. Within the whole of a holiday, a few special hours may shine as the best remembered moments prompting you to reminisce weeks, months and years later with phrases beginning with: “Remember that day when we….”.
In 2004 an impromptu climb up a jungle path on a hillside in St. Lucia became a special afternoon with rewards of solitary and spectacular views of the Pitons, a serene encounter with island history, wildlife and some incredible photographs. When we planned our vacation to the Greek islands in 2005, we pledged to try to get off the “beaten track” and away from the usual tourist highlights at least once or twice in an attempt to replicate the out-of-the-way experience we had enjoyed in the Caribbean.
We found what we were looking for on the island of Paros, the day we strolled along the Byzantine Road from the small inland village of Lefkes to the fishing harbour of Piso Livadi. This incredible day was spent walking upon the ancient marble stones of a road laid in Christian Roman times, stopping for lunch beneath an olive tree, absorbing wonderful views and vistas amidst wild sage and thyme, stumbling upon the peaceful solitude of a marble-clad graveyard, and being suitably rewarded with good wine and food in a taverna by the sea.
The idea for this walk had germinated slowly some six months before when I had stumbled across a web site for hiking enthusiasts that included detailed descriptions of tried-and-true walks in the Greek islands. At the time I had not thought much of the idea. In my self-absorbed vacationing universe the concept of “hiking” was not on the agenda. For me, hiking conjured up visions of smelly feet in sweaty hiking boots, a very unflattering Tilley endurable wardrobe (I don’t do floppy hats), overburdened with GPS gear (that I would be unable to operate with my digitally-impaired brain) being buried beneath an overstuffed ruck-sack filled with hydration packs, survival gear, solar blankets and most importantly flares -- which would most certainly be required when we became hopelessly lost and my wife threatened to beat me senseless unless I summoned a rescue team to return her to the comforts of our hotel. I was neither a hiker, a navigator, an explorer, or an adventurer. I’m one of those guys who is usually unable to re-fold a map, let alone read it properly.
And yet, the more I read, the more appealing was the romantic notion of traveling along an ancient stone road laid out perhaps a thousand years ago. The description of the walk seemed relatively straightforward even for a navigation-impaired person such as myself. I ordered a map of Paros from one of those outdoor stores (selling Tilley Endurables and GPS gear!) and when it arrived I was not only able to follow the route with my finger – I was able to refold the map too! Things seemed promising and Kathy was game for the idea so we set aside a day during our visit to Paros to walk the Byzantine Road.
We found Paros to be a wonderful island with friendly people. The pace of life seemed relaxed and mellow. From our base at the lovely Argonauta Hotel we strolled and browsed the shops, enjoyed leisurely meals at the seaside tavernas, drank good local wines and explored the many nooks and crannies of Parikia. We were glad we had followed the recommendation of our travel agent to include Paros on our first trip to the Greek Islands. On our second day in Paros, after an early breakfast of coffee and excellent pastries from the small bakery off the main square, we packed a light lunch and some bottled water and wine in a modest sized back-pack, strapped on our Teva sandals, grabbed the camera and the map, and struck out for Lefkes.
The bus system on Paros is efficient and inexpensive. All of the island bus routes are easily determined from the bus schedule posted near the small parking area adjacent to the ferry wharf in Parikia. After ensuring we were on the right bus, we purchased our ticket from the driver and settled in for the twenty minute ride from Parikia inland to the small village of Lefkes where the starting point of the Byzantine Road is located.
When we arrived in Lefkes shortly after 10:00 a.m., the village was eerily quiet. Lefkes is a very pretty town surrounded by groves of olive trees, meandering stone walls, and the occasional Windmill. The typical whitewashed stucco Cycladic architecture found on Paros led us along the winding streets and steps towards the Church. The map at the bus stop indicated that the entrance to the Byzantine Road would be found somewhere below the main church. Like most of the areas of Paros we had seen, Lefkes was spotlessly clean, with meticulously maintained gardens, entrances, and streets. Bright pink Bougainvillea, lemon trees, flowerpots, and petunias covered and enlivened the white steps, homes and garden walls of the town.
Before descending to the lower area of the village we decided to stroll through the church courtyard. The main church in Lefkes, Agia Triada (Holy Trinity), built in 1830, dominates one of the higher points in the village looking east towards Piso Livadi and the sea. We would shortly discover that this was the route of the Byzantine road. Before leaving the church we rounded the corner and stumbled upon a small hillside cemetery laid out in orderly precision and surrounded by shady junipers and conifers.
The island of Paros, as we knew, was the source of the pristine, and much sought-after, white marble which became the raw material sculpted into many of the best examples of classical Greek sculpture including the Venus de Milo. The Agia Triada cemetery was striking in appearance because of this famous stone. Upon entering the cemetery through a white marble gate, a straight path stretched down the hill from the church wall. To the left and right of the central promenade were row upon row of cool white marble graves, mausoleums, crypts, and chapels adorned with every manner of religious icon and personal memorabilia. Each monument and grave was in some way different – some were elaborate, while others were simple and austere in appearance. Almost all of it was marble – the most prized and expensive of artistic material used to create some of the world’s greatest works of art was here in rich abundance and used for the simple and solemn honouring of the deceased residents of this remote village. Black and white photos celebrated ordinary lives of grandmas, fathers, children. Perpetual flames were tucked away here and there. Families obviously devoted time and attention to maintaining the memory of loved ones and there was an apparent sense of tradition, devotion, family honour, and respect for the past in this tranquil place.
From a personal perspective, this hillside graveyard in the Greek islands was a unique lesson in cultural diversity not usually seen by tourists while frolicking on vacation in the sunny Aegean. Our small-town Canadian municipal cemetery with rows of dreary dark headstones, in rigid rows regimented within a grid of dirt roads and squares of weedy grass surrounded by a chain link fence was a world away – not just in distance but in culture. Kathy and I said very little to each other during the half hour or so we visited. There was little to say but much to absorb.
We left the white-marbled graveyard behind to head down to the road. (The Cathedral was unfortunately closed that day and we missed the opportunity to visit the interior of this beautiful church). We stumbled upon the start of the Byzantine Road identified by a rather inauspicious marker. It was a hand-painted white stone perched atop a stone wall with an arrow pointing down a path with the simple words “Byzantine Road”. We were off.
The sun was shining. Birds chirped at every step of the way. Small lizards skittled across the path and up and down the stone walls that ran along the side of the road at varying heights and dimensions. We were in no hurry. We stopped often, capturing terrific photos of the hillsides and views of Lefkes as it receded in the distance and of the sea, with the island of Naxos visible in the distance, moving closer and closer. The strong pungent, woody smells of wild sage, thyme and wildflowers filled the air. Except for the very occasional vehicle seen traveling along the distant roadway, the idyllic pastoral atmosphere was undisturbed.
We’ve not been able to determine with any authority, exactly how much of the marble and stone surfaced road we walked on from Lefkes to Prodromos that day is the original stone road and how much may have been restored. Our impression, from its appearance, is that the road is indeed as it was originally laid out in Byzantine times. Part of the walk is along simple dirt paths, but most certainly at intermittent locations the stone surface of the road, as it winds its way through the hills, is identifiable. The road is in many places overgrown on either side by indigenous plants and only a narrow path is visible. Closer inspection reveals that the original road is, in fact, many feet wide, made to accommodate larger forms of traffic. On the Acropolis in Athens, we had already marveled at the thought of standing upon the very stones trod by Pericles and Aristotle and Plato and enjoyed that “sense of history” that you can’t escape in Greece. But on Paros, and the Byzantine Road, it was different – we were by ourselves, in the middle of the Parian hills, standing on a road laid by men some thousand years before and traveled not by great philosophers or Greek Statesmen but perhaps by soldiers, farmers transporting crops or fleeing from the pirates that plagued the island, villagers traveling to the sea in the heat of summer, ordinary craftsmen, shepherds, priests and folk traveling in one direction or another. Maybe this thought process was, and is, a little too “deep” for a simple Greek holiday – but our “historical romanticism” lent the experience, so far off the beaten path, a certain air of adventure.
We stopped for lunch. We scrambled over a rock wall up a small hill and found a spot beneath a gnarled olive tree. There was a large rock nearby and the reddish brown soil had been freshly raked around the roots. We munched our pastries. The water and wine were warm but it didn’t matter. Life was good. It was quiet, peaceful, serene. I let my mind wander and inserted my own mood music into the moment - bouzouki and mandolins tinkled a soundtrack variation in my head – sort of a remix of Zorba and Never on a Sunday. I smiled at my wife, caught some rays and savoured the moment. We were all alone in the Greek hillside selfishly enjoying a private slice of the Greek island experience in our own solitude……
…..Or were we? As Kathy and I sat on our rock gazing to the sea, I happened to look over towards the Road and was more than a little surprised at the site “unfolding” before us. It took my brain a few seconds to catch up with my eyeballs as I absorbed the sight of a naked backside being flashed in my direction. A lady’s bare, and not-too-skinny bottom was slowly rising from the ground as a fellow Byzantinian Roadie stood to pull her bright purple undies up. She had obviously snuck off the path to a spot that she no doubt thought was out of sight for a quick call of nature. Fortunately for both she and us, she failed to notice the Byzantinian Roadside lunch crowd sitting to her immediate right, thus sparing us all the embarrassment of a Too-Close Encounter of a Bare-Bottom kind.
After waiting to ensure that the Purple Undies Lady would safely avoid a “face-to-face” encounter on the trail we resumed our trek. Just over the ridge we came across a small group of sketch artists perched in various spots near a small stone bridge, trying to capture the scene on paper. We settled for captures of a digital kind, nodded our hellos and continued up the incline to the next ridge.
The first leg of the Byzantine Road runs approximately two kilometers easterly from Lefkes toward the sea and the straits separating Paros and Naxos. The trail more or less hugs the south side of a valley, but then after crossing a small bridge, rises up to the ridge and hill overlooking the eastern coast of Paros. From this point the road jogs to the right running in a southeasterly direction down towards the small village of Prodromos. The most enjoyable part of the journey is indeed the first two kilometers. As we came to the top of the ridge and had the coast of the island spread out below us the view was magnificent. The sun was at its peak, and that glorious blue sky of the Aegean merged with the blues and aquamarines of the sea. Ahead of us was Mount Kefalos and the white monastery was visible at the peak.
If we had been more adventuresome we might have added on the extra trek to climb Mount Kefalos which no doubt would have afforded some wonderful views – but we wimped out. Dinner was calling us and we still had a bit of a hike to go. The descent of about one kilometer down to Prodromos was pleasant. The rock strewn surface of the road continued to meander down the hill, at times disappearing to become a well-worn path of black stones, only to reappear suddenly. At one point we came across an interesting picture which had been carved into one of the surface stones of the road – it was a sailing schooner on the sea with a cross upon its deck – we could not tell whether the date was 1856 or 1956. We wondered what had prompted a traveler to carve such a picture.
As the Byzantine Road connected with civilization we found ourselves traveling through small streets and back roads of Prodromos. From here the romantic, idyllic pastoral morning became a pleasant walk through the small villages of Prodromos, Marpissa and finally Pisso Livadi by the sea. We glanced at the map occasionally to get our bearings but it wasn’t that difficult to follow the signs to the sea.
We were two happy campers when we entered the picturesque harbour and fishing port of Pisso Livadi. It was early May and the hotels and tavernas were quiet. We settled in on the pretty terrace of the Stavros Taverna, a stone’s throw from the beach and the bus stop. As was always the case during our vacation we decided where to eat based on a combination of two things: reviews from various sources; and where that failed us we hung around outside the taverna and counted the number of Greeks eating. If the place was popular with the locals – the food was good. The waitress guided us into the kitchen to select our food – two famished Byzantinian Roadies in bad need of sustenance and wine. The Pastitsio was awesome as were the Gigantus beans in sauce, the massive meatballs, the octopus, the salad and the carafe of awesome Parian white wine. We relaxed, gazing across the sun speckled water to the fuzzy hills of Naxos and smiled at each other as we enjoyed that quintessential Greek experience – a leisurely lunch at a taverna by the sea..
While waiting for the bus to take us back to Parikia, we sat on the beach soaking in the sunshine and enjoying the ambiance of this great little Paros seaside village. The bus arrived. The route along the winding roads from the east coast, back to the center of the island (and the highest point) at Lefkes and then on to the west coast and Parikia was itself a great little tour of the island of Paros. We slept well that night.
Some of our favourite pictures and memories of our trip to the Greek islands are from our walk from Lefkes to the Sea. One of my favourites is me bent down, plucking and sniffing a sprig of wild sage. I can still remember the smell. And the other? At one point I set the camera down on the surface of the rock covered road looking through the hills to the blue waters of the Aegean. The camera, across the expanse of the ancient marble stones, captured us beaming at each other face-to-face, rather than looking at the camera – obviously congratulating ourselves for having managed to wander a road less traveled and enjoy a simple, yet happy, day off the beaten path on the Byzantine Road of Paros.
IF YOU ARE INTERESTED – From either Parikia or Naoussa buses travel regularly inland to Lefkes. The fare is about 1 Euro. Maps of Paros are sold in many places on the island or may be purchased from outdoor gear stores. A small book “Walking the Aegean Islands”, though sometimes difficult to find, includes the walk in its chapter on Paros. A very good description of the walk (in the opposite direction) can also be found by typing in “Walking, hiking and trekking in the Cyclades” in a web search – you will locate an English version of a website maintained by a Belgian hiking enthusiast who provides excellent outlines of various walks in the Cycladic islands, including Paros. Walking surfaces are fairly stable and not too challenging but a fair level of fitness is required. Depending on your pace, rest stops and sight-seeing diversions, the walk may take between 2 ½ and 4 hours. Some good walking sandals or shoes, sunscreen, water and a light snack are a good idea. The trail is in pristine condition and litter free. (Keeping it that way and removing any refuse will ensure memorable visits for future visitors.) Before leaving for Lefkes you might wish to check the return times for the bus from Piso Livadi which departs from the bus stop at designated times on the hour or half hour. Waiting time is well spent at Stavros Taverna or any of the other spots nearby! An option to Piso Livadi is to veer south along the coast to the beaches at Pounda or Golden Beach and enjoy a dip in the sea or snacks and refreshments at one of the many tavernas and cafes. Yassou!
Thanks again to everyone and the regular Fodorites such as Brotherleelove whose great wealth of info on Santorini was bang-on and made our trip spectacular. Athens and the Greek Islands exceeded our expectations. We want to go back.
Here it is....sorry for the length
________________________________________
Off the Beaten Path – on a Path Well Travelled
On the Byzantine Road from Lefkes to the Sea
Paros – May 2005
Memorable and extraordinary experiences on a vacation are often the ones least expected, unplanned or completely spontaneous. Sometimes such moments are planned, but surprise you by being far more incredible than you had imagined. Within the whole of a holiday, a few special hours may shine as the best remembered moments prompting you to reminisce weeks, months and years later with phrases beginning with: “Remember that day when we….”.
In 2004 an impromptu climb up a jungle path on a hillside in St. Lucia became a special afternoon with rewards of solitary and spectacular views of the Pitons, a serene encounter with island history, wildlife and some incredible photographs. When we planned our vacation to the Greek islands in 2005, we pledged to try to get off the “beaten track” and away from the usual tourist highlights at least once or twice in an attempt to replicate the out-of-the-way experience we had enjoyed in the Caribbean.
We found what we were looking for on the island of Paros, the day we strolled along the Byzantine Road from the small inland village of Lefkes to the fishing harbour of Piso Livadi. This incredible day was spent walking upon the ancient marble stones of a road laid in Christian Roman times, stopping for lunch beneath an olive tree, absorbing wonderful views and vistas amidst wild sage and thyme, stumbling upon the peaceful solitude of a marble-clad graveyard, and being suitably rewarded with good wine and food in a taverna by the sea.
The idea for this walk had germinated slowly some six months before when I had stumbled across a web site for hiking enthusiasts that included detailed descriptions of tried-and-true walks in the Greek islands. At the time I had not thought much of the idea. In my self-absorbed vacationing universe the concept of “hiking” was not on the agenda. For me, hiking conjured up visions of smelly feet in sweaty hiking boots, a very unflattering Tilley endurable wardrobe (I don’t do floppy hats), overburdened with GPS gear (that I would be unable to operate with my digitally-impaired brain) being buried beneath an overstuffed ruck-sack filled with hydration packs, survival gear, solar blankets and most importantly flares -- which would most certainly be required when we became hopelessly lost and my wife threatened to beat me senseless unless I summoned a rescue team to return her to the comforts of our hotel. I was neither a hiker, a navigator, an explorer, or an adventurer. I’m one of those guys who is usually unable to re-fold a map, let alone read it properly.
And yet, the more I read, the more appealing was the romantic notion of traveling along an ancient stone road laid out perhaps a thousand years ago. The description of the walk seemed relatively straightforward even for a navigation-impaired person such as myself. I ordered a map of Paros from one of those outdoor stores (selling Tilley Endurables and GPS gear!) and when it arrived I was not only able to follow the route with my finger – I was able to refold the map too! Things seemed promising and Kathy was game for the idea so we set aside a day during our visit to Paros to walk the Byzantine Road.
We found Paros to be a wonderful island with friendly people. The pace of life seemed relaxed and mellow. From our base at the lovely Argonauta Hotel we strolled and browsed the shops, enjoyed leisurely meals at the seaside tavernas, drank good local wines and explored the many nooks and crannies of Parikia. We were glad we had followed the recommendation of our travel agent to include Paros on our first trip to the Greek Islands. On our second day in Paros, after an early breakfast of coffee and excellent pastries from the small bakery off the main square, we packed a light lunch and some bottled water and wine in a modest sized back-pack, strapped on our Teva sandals, grabbed the camera and the map, and struck out for Lefkes.
The bus system on Paros is efficient and inexpensive. All of the island bus routes are easily determined from the bus schedule posted near the small parking area adjacent to the ferry wharf in Parikia. After ensuring we were on the right bus, we purchased our ticket from the driver and settled in for the twenty minute ride from Parikia inland to the small village of Lefkes where the starting point of the Byzantine Road is located.
When we arrived in Lefkes shortly after 10:00 a.m., the village was eerily quiet. Lefkes is a very pretty town surrounded by groves of olive trees, meandering stone walls, and the occasional Windmill. The typical whitewashed stucco Cycladic architecture found on Paros led us along the winding streets and steps towards the Church. The map at the bus stop indicated that the entrance to the Byzantine Road would be found somewhere below the main church. Like most of the areas of Paros we had seen, Lefkes was spotlessly clean, with meticulously maintained gardens, entrances, and streets. Bright pink Bougainvillea, lemon trees, flowerpots, and petunias covered and enlivened the white steps, homes and garden walls of the town.
Before descending to the lower area of the village we decided to stroll through the church courtyard. The main church in Lefkes, Agia Triada (Holy Trinity), built in 1830, dominates one of the higher points in the village looking east towards Piso Livadi and the sea. We would shortly discover that this was the route of the Byzantine road. Before leaving the church we rounded the corner and stumbled upon a small hillside cemetery laid out in orderly precision and surrounded by shady junipers and conifers.
The island of Paros, as we knew, was the source of the pristine, and much sought-after, white marble which became the raw material sculpted into many of the best examples of classical Greek sculpture including the Venus de Milo. The Agia Triada cemetery was striking in appearance because of this famous stone. Upon entering the cemetery through a white marble gate, a straight path stretched down the hill from the church wall. To the left and right of the central promenade were row upon row of cool white marble graves, mausoleums, crypts, and chapels adorned with every manner of religious icon and personal memorabilia. Each monument and grave was in some way different – some were elaborate, while others were simple and austere in appearance. Almost all of it was marble – the most prized and expensive of artistic material used to create some of the world’s greatest works of art was here in rich abundance and used for the simple and solemn honouring of the deceased residents of this remote village. Black and white photos celebrated ordinary lives of grandmas, fathers, children. Perpetual flames were tucked away here and there. Families obviously devoted time and attention to maintaining the memory of loved ones and there was an apparent sense of tradition, devotion, family honour, and respect for the past in this tranquil place.
From a personal perspective, this hillside graveyard in the Greek islands was a unique lesson in cultural diversity not usually seen by tourists while frolicking on vacation in the sunny Aegean. Our small-town Canadian municipal cemetery with rows of dreary dark headstones, in rigid rows regimented within a grid of dirt roads and squares of weedy grass surrounded by a chain link fence was a world away – not just in distance but in culture. Kathy and I said very little to each other during the half hour or so we visited. There was little to say but much to absorb.
We left the white-marbled graveyard behind to head down to the road. (The Cathedral was unfortunately closed that day and we missed the opportunity to visit the interior of this beautiful church). We stumbled upon the start of the Byzantine Road identified by a rather inauspicious marker. It was a hand-painted white stone perched atop a stone wall with an arrow pointing down a path with the simple words “Byzantine Road”. We were off.
The sun was shining. Birds chirped at every step of the way. Small lizards skittled across the path and up and down the stone walls that ran along the side of the road at varying heights and dimensions. We were in no hurry. We stopped often, capturing terrific photos of the hillsides and views of Lefkes as it receded in the distance and of the sea, with the island of Naxos visible in the distance, moving closer and closer. The strong pungent, woody smells of wild sage, thyme and wildflowers filled the air. Except for the very occasional vehicle seen traveling along the distant roadway, the idyllic pastoral atmosphere was undisturbed.
We’ve not been able to determine with any authority, exactly how much of the marble and stone surfaced road we walked on from Lefkes to Prodromos that day is the original stone road and how much may have been restored. Our impression, from its appearance, is that the road is indeed as it was originally laid out in Byzantine times. Part of the walk is along simple dirt paths, but most certainly at intermittent locations the stone surface of the road, as it winds its way through the hills, is identifiable. The road is in many places overgrown on either side by indigenous plants and only a narrow path is visible. Closer inspection reveals that the original road is, in fact, many feet wide, made to accommodate larger forms of traffic. On the Acropolis in Athens, we had already marveled at the thought of standing upon the very stones trod by Pericles and Aristotle and Plato and enjoyed that “sense of history” that you can’t escape in Greece. But on Paros, and the Byzantine Road, it was different – we were by ourselves, in the middle of the Parian hills, standing on a road laid by men some thousand years before and traveled not by great philosophers or Greek Statesmen but perhaps by soldiers, farmers transporting crops or fleeing from the pirates that plagued the island, villagers traveling to the sea in the heat of summer, ordinary craftsmen, shepherds, priests and folk traveling in one direction or another. Maybe this thought process was, and is, a little too “deep” for a simple Greek holiday – but our “historical romanticism” lent the experience, so far off the beaten path, a certain air of adventure.
We stopped for lunch. We scrambled over a rock wall up a small hill and found a spot beneath a gnarled olive tree. There was a large rock nearby and the reddish brown soil had been freshly raked around the roots. We munched our pastries. The water and wine were warm but it didn’t matter. Life was good. It was quiet, peaceful, serene. I let my mind wander and inserted my own mood music into the moment - bouzouki and mandolins tinkled a soundtrack variation in my head – sort of a remix of Zorba and Never on a Sunday. I smiled at my wife, caught some rays and savoured the moment. We were all alone in the Greek hillside selfishly enjoying a private slice of the Greek island experience in our own solitude……
…..Or were we? As Kathy and I sat on our rock gazing to the sea, I happened to look over towards the Road and was more than a little surprised at the site “unfolding” before us. It took my brain a few seconds to catch up with my eyeballs as I absorbed the sight of a naked backside being flashed in my direction. A lady’s bare, and not-too-skinny bottom was slowly rising from the ground as a fellow Byzantinian Roadie stood to pull her bright purple undies up. She had obviously snuck off the path to a spot that she no doubt thought was out of sight for a quick call of nature. Fortunately for both she and us, she failed to notice the Byzantinian Roadside lunch crowd sitting to her immediate right, thus sparing us all the embarrassment of a Too-Close Encounter of a Bare-Bottom kind.
After waiting to ensure that the Purple Undies Lady would safely avoid a “face-to-face” encounter on the trail we resumed our trek. Just over the ridge we came across a small group of sketch artists perched in various spots near a small stone bridge, trying to capture the scene on paper. We settled for captures of a digital kind, nodded our hellos and continued up the incline to the next ridge.
The first leg of the Byzantine Road runs approximately two kilometers easterly from Lefkes toward the sea and the straits separating Paros and Naxos. The trail more or less hugs the south side of a valley, but then after crossing a small bridge, rises up to the ridge and hill overlooking the eastern coast of Paros. From this point the road jogs to the right running in a southeasterly direction down towards the small village of Prodromos. The most enjoyable part of the journey is indeed the first two kilometers. As we came to the top of the ridge and had the coast of the island spread out below us the view was magnificent. The sun was at its peak, and that glorious blue sky of the Aegean merged with the blues and aquamarines of the sea. Ahead of us was Mount Kefalos and the white monastery was visible at the peak.
If we had been more adventuresome we might have added on the extra trek to climb Mount Kefalos which no doubt would have afforded some wonderful views – but we wimped out. Dinner was calling us and we still had a bit of a hike to go. The descent of about one kilometer down to Prodromos was pleasant. The rock strewn surface of the road continued to meander down the hill, at times disappearing to become a well-worn path of black stones, only to reappear suddenly. At one point we came across an interesting picture which had been carved into one of the surface stones of the road – it was a sailing schooner on the sea with a cross upon its deck – we could not tell whether the date was 1856 or 1956. We wondered what had prompted a traveler to carve such a picture.
As the Byzantine Road connected with civilization we found ourselves traveling through small streets and back roads of Prodromos. From here the romantic, idyllic pastoral morning became a pleasant walk through the small villages of Prodromos, Marpissa and finally Pisso Livadi by the sea. We glanced at the map occasionally to get our bearings but it wasn’t that difficult to follow the signs to the sea.
We were two happy campers when we entered the picturesque harbour and fishing port of Pisso Livadi. It was early May and the hotels and tavernas were quiet. We settled in on the pretty terrace of the Stavros Taverna, a stone’s throw from the beach and the bus stop. As was always the case during our vacation we decided where to eat based on a combination of two things: reviews from various sources; and where that failed us we hung around outside the taverna and counted the number of Greeks eating. If the place was popular with the locals – the food was good. The waitress guided us into the kitchen to select our food – two famished Byzantinian Roadies in bad need of sustenance and wine. The Pastitsio was awesome as were the Gigantus beans in sauce, the massive meatballs, the octopus, the salad and the carafe of awesome Parian white wine. We relaxed, gazing across the sun speckled water to the fuzzy hills of Naxos and smiled at each other as we enjoyed that quintessential Greek experience – a leisurely lunch at a taverna by the sea..
While waiting for the bus to take us back to Parikia, we sat on the beach soaking in the sunshine and enjoying the ambiance of this great little Paros seaside village. The bus arrived. The route along the winding roads from the east coast, back to the center of the island (and the highest point) at Lefkes and then on to the west coast and Parikia was itself a great little tour of the island of Paros. We slept well that night.
Some of our favourite pictures and memories of our trip to the Greek islands are from our walk from Lefkes to the Sea. One of my favourites is me bent down, plucking and sniffing a sprig of wild sage. I can still remember the smell. And the other? At one point I set the camera down on the surface of the rock covered road looking through the hills to the blue waters of the Aegean. The camera, across the expanse of the ancient marble stones, captured us beaming at each other face-to-face, rather than looking at the camera – obviously congratulating ourselves for having managed to wander a road less traveled and enjoy a simple, yet happy, day off the beaten path on the Byzantine Road of Paros.
IF YOU ARE INTERESTED – From either Parikia or Naoussa buses travel regularly inland to Lefkes. The fare is about 1 Euro. Maps of Paros are sold in many places on the island or may be purchased from outdoor gear stores. A small book “Walking the Aegean Islands”, though sometimes difficult to find, includes the walk in its chapter on Paros. A very good description of the walk (in the opposite direction) can also be found by typing in “Walking, hiking and trekking in the Cyclades” in a web search – you will locate an English version of a website maintained by a Belgian hiking enthusiast who provides excellent outlines of various walks in the Cycladic islands, including Paros. Walking surfaces are fairly stable and not too challenging but a fair level of fitness is required. Depending on your pace, rest stops and sight-seeing diversions, the walk may take between 2 ½ and 4 hours. Some good walking sandals or shoes, sunscreen, water and a light snack are a good idea. The trail is in pristine condition and litter free. (Keeping it that way and removing any refuse will ensure memorable visits for future visitors.) Before leaving for Lefkes you might wish to check the return times for the bus from Piso Livadi which departs from the bus stop at designated times on the hour or half hour. Waiting time is well spent at Stavros Taverna or any of the other spots nearby! An option to Piso Livadi is to veer south along the coast to the beaches at Pounda or Golden Beach and enjoy a dip in the sea or snacks and refreshments at one of the many tavernas and cafes. Yassou!
Sep 18th, 2005, 09:30 AM
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Oh did I ever enjoy your post. Paros was one of my absolute favorites and out of that Lefkes was my favorite stop. I am a little depressed that we did not know to do this walk, but you have described it so well, I feel like we could have! Lefkes was an unplanned stop for us, we were heading from Parikia to Naoussa for dinner and I was reading the guidebook out loud and it suggested a stop. I will never forget my first sight of that magnificent church and how eagerly we leapt out of our car to trek all the way down, down down, through this most magical village. We were there around 4 or 5 pm, so everything was quiet and we felt like the only people in the world! We stood in the square in front of the church taking photos and one of my favorites is of me, grinning madly, pointing up toward grapes that were growing on a lattice above somebody's door.
Thank you so much for bringing a smile to my face today!
Thank you so much for bringing a smile to my face today!
Sep 18th, 2005, 09:49 AM
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...........we were wandering thro'
Lefkes early afternoon. The village
was seemingly deserted and absolutely
silent except for the piping voices
of a few children playing in the narrow
street below us. As we came nearer to
them we realized they were speaking
English. Odd. I asked one tyke where
she had learned such perfect English.
She replied in a matter of fact way:
"Kitsilano". Turns out she lived in
Vancouver very near to where we did!
Small island, small children, small...
you get the idea!
A lovely report on a lovely place, Dave.
Lefkes early afternoon. The village
was seemingly deserted and absolutely
silent except for the piping voices
of a few children playing in the narrow
street below us. As we came nearer to
them we realized they were speaking
English. Odd. I asked one tyke where
she had learned such perfect English.
She replied in a matter of fact way:
"Kitsilano". Turns out she lived in
Vancouver very near to where we did!
Small island, small children, small...
you get the idea!
A lovely report on a lovely place, Dave.
Sep 20th, 2005, 05:07 AM
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You have ruined my day with your wonderful trip report. We stayed in Lefkes in June and walked a small part of the Byzantine Trail. Our children, however, got hot and wanted to return before we made it to Prodromos, much less the sea. I am so sorry we missed the rest of the walk. It sounds fantastic. I guess we will just have to return!
Sep 20th, 2005, 05:55 AM
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Started to read this report and have decided to print it out, along with Nikki's trip report, to read before I go to sleep! ( Nearly midnight here in Australia).
I love the opening paragraph!! How true.
Sep 20th, 2005, 07:36 AM
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Dave, you brought back such lovely memories! I didn't do a
the walking you did, but I was in Lefkes, and wandered a short distance down the road. I too remember it as being nearly deserted. Sigh. I have committed to myself t
go back!
the walking you did, but I was in Lefkes, and wandered a short distance down the road. I too remember it as being nearly deserted. Sigh. I have committed to myself t
go back!
Sep 20th, 2005, 03:07 PM
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We toured Paros 2 yrs ago & loved the slow, quiet ambiance. My best memory will remain with me forever... mopedding around the island like a couple of wild teens (we're in our 60s).We both have remnants on our arms to prove the results of flying off upon a steep turn.
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