Paris with a 4-year old

Although my granddaughter was 6.5 yrs., I think most of our trip would be appropriate for a 4 yr old also. We did not do museums, etc.
Photocopying pictures from kids' books of Paris (list in report) was especially helpful, and I think it would add to your son's enjoyment to find the sights that you have chosen together beforehand.

http://tinyurl.com/mkv9kd

Happy planning!

This is great, stephtravels. I've been to Paris before without children, and now am the parent of a 3-year old girl. We have been planning a trip over to Europe and I think Paris would be one of the most child-friendly cities imaginable. I can't speak from experience, but have given it a bit of thought.

I certainly can't top Grandmere's trip report. That is a comprehensive thread. Grandmere has a great idea about the kids books of Paris. My daughter loves Madeline and recognizes the Eiffel tower as "Madeline's tower." Your son may identify with Madeline - or with the character Pepito, Madeline's Spanish neighbor.

One thing I might suggest is not to shy away from museums per se if that is something that you would enjoy. A small museum like the Rodin museum would be perfectly manageable for your son. There are many sculptures on the grounds where your son can run free and just enough inside where he won't get bored or antsy much before you make your way through it. The Picasso museum has similar characteristics and (I believe) has a public playground directly behind it. (The museum may be closed for renovations now, though).

Just two cents - not to take anything away from Grandmere's epic report.

The Jardin d'Acclimation in the Bois de Bologne is perfect for your son, AND they have the puppet show (i.e. like Punch & Judy) -- don't remember if it's only weekends. But the two playgrounds and the little rides there, as well as the puppet show are all geared for the 4 year old set. Like a kiddie amusement park, there's little snack bars to buy crepes, candy floss, and ice cream. At the entrance of the Bois de Bologne, you will be able to take a miniature train right to the kiddie park. That will be at the Porte Maillot entrance.

Mostly Parisians and nearly devoid of tourists. There's the Enchanted House for kids from 2 - 4, I think.

We went in 2008 with our 2 year old daughter and it was wonderful. We rented an apartment in Montmartre-- we loved the location, but you will get your exercise! We loved just playing in the parks, and onthe carousels (her favorite was a two story one near Hotel de Ville I think-- will have to check my notes!) I think everyone's favorite memory is playing with the sail boats in Luxembourg Gardens--- personally, this is a must do!!!! The great part about Paris is that there are little parks everywhere-- so when the little ones get the wiggles-- just stop and play for a while!!! And it's so much fun to watch them interact with other children, regardless of language! Have fun-- I am completely jealous!

We took our then 4 year old to Paris last September! He was also there the year before at 3, and a couple years before that at 11 months. I love taking him to Paris. It's a great city for little ones.

Accommodations:
If you're going to be there for more than a few days (or anywhere else on your trip) I would consider renting an apartment. The extra space is wonderful. Separate sleeping areas allow for earlier bedtimes for the little one and some time for the adults to unwind before bed. Having a little fridge, microwave and stove can be really helpful too. We always keep cheese, milk, fruit, yogurt in our fridge and that keeps our little one happy until we're all ready to go out.

The last time we visited Paris we were only there for a couple of days so we stayed at Citadines Saint Germain. It's sort of like a half apt half hotel. It definitely worked for us.
http://www.citadines.com/en/france/paris/saint_germain_des_pres.html

Activities:
We spent the majority of our time in Jardin du Luxembourg. There's a great playground, but he also loved just running around. I believe you can rent the sailboats on the large pools but we've only done that (and loved it) at the Tuilleries.

We went up in the Eiffel Tower. He thought the mechanics of it all was fascinating. We were there in the evening and he also really enjoyed it when it twinkled.

Notre Dame. He wasn't thrilled with the inside but loved the square in front of it as it is full of pigeons to feed and chase! There is also a very sweet little park behind that gave him a chance to burn off some energy and play with some other little kids. My son also dug the gargoyles. There is an old Scooby Doo episode where the gargoyles come to life, so he kept an eye on them. But the little gargoyle we bought for him is one of his favorite souvenirs!

Food:
My son would live on cheese, bread and fruit if we let him. Perfect for Paris! He skipped the french cheese, but he was constantly munching on a baguette. Fruit stands are on every street so we just ate as we walked. We also ate a TON of ice cream. Berthillion on Ile St Louis is great but not the only ice cream in Paris, so if it's not convenient don't stress out about it. Our little ice cream connoisseur actually preferred the dark chocolate gelato at Amorino. With several locations it's definitely more convenient.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Where else are you planning on going and how long with the whole trip be? Traveling with a little one is so different -- but we love it. Good luck!

Wow, thanks everyone for the quick replies!

Grandmere - I'm checking out your link now, thank you!

BKP - We're thinking of going to Paris first (we can fly there direct), stay for about 3 days, then train to Brussels and a stay in Brugges. I would really like to see the tulips/spring flowers in the Netherlands so I would like to end up there. Any experience in any of these other locations? Too aggressive? We want to stay in each place at least 3 days and we'll probably go for a total of 10-12 days.

To be honest, my husband's first choice is not Paris (actually it's not his 2nd or 3rd choice either) but I have always wanted to go, we can fly there direct, and it sounds like there are a ton of things to do with our son. If it was just the two of us, I would probably go for more time in the countryside visiting wineries etc. but am afraid that won't go over well with our 4-year-old!

We took our son when he was 3, almost 4, to Brugges for one night as part of a longer trip. It was at the end of the trip so he spent most of the time on my husband's shoulders. We did climb the belfry with him. At the top there is a giant bell (of course) and he really enjoyed the mechanism of all that -- until the bell started ringing! But, it was too loud to hear him complain so we just enjoyed the view.

Your plan does sound aggressive -- but if you think your son can handle it, go for it. I've dragged my son through worse! He can be a handful but can AWALYS be placated with ice cream. That's not how we parent at home -- but out and about it's really come in handy. It helps that ice cream is pretty much universal! Does your son have something like that, that can ALWAYS cheer him up or calm him down?

Can your son ride a bike? I ask because we saw bikes all over the place in Belgium. With a little more planning we might have been able to take a family bike ride through parts of the countryside. I'm sure there are places that will rent a child's bike, a ride along bike, or even one of those enclosed wagon things to pull behind an adult bike.

Are you planning on relying on public transportation for the whole trip? If you do, you have the benefit of not needing to lug a car seat. But of course, you are tied to train and bus schedules which can add more stress to an already stressful situation.

Can I ask what your husband's first (or second or third) choice would be? One of the reasons why our trip was so successful is that we both love Paris. So, even if we were just hanging out at a playground (something we can do at home, for free, without ever getting on a plane) it was wonderful because we were doing it in PARIS! I bet though, after a nice stroll, a good meal, and something sweet for dessert, Paris might soon become your husband's first choice!

Thanks BKP - yes, ice cream or M&M's are always a hit with my son! I know when my hubby and I were in Italy, gelato always cheered me up

My husband is open to Paris, I just don't think he knows what to expect...he doesn't love museums and I think he thinks french food is "fancy". I'm sure I can cheer him up with ice cream too He is really interested in Belgium, Netherlands, etc. -- he's also interested in WWII sites but again, not sure how much of that my son will be able to stand plus I'd like to visit D-day sites etc. when my son is a bit older and can appreciate it.

No car seat...my son loves buses and trains so we will go that route. The bikes sound awesome. He can't ride yet but even if he could by then, that might be too much for his little legs. Worth looking into one with a tow behind wagon though or kids seat!

Are there other areas of France that we might enjoy as a family? Again, I dream of wineries and champagne but that doesn't sound kid friendly.

I remember this time last year, we took our 7 yo daughter to Paris. As we came off the metro DH was walking in front of her the whole way towards the Eiffel Tower. We than covered her eyes as we came around the corner and than when she it for the first time in real life, she was so excited jumping up and down and everyone around us just smiled at the amazement of a 7 yo. I so wish that I would have gotten a picture of her face that day. It was a priceless moment.
Enjoy

That's awesome Shangrila!

We took our son and daughter all over France when they were younger than 7. Paris multiple times, Brugge, Normandy beaches, Provence, Reims, Rouen, etc. We did some of the grown up things and really worked to get them involved in ways they would like.

For example, before we went to Giverny, we spent some time looking at Monet's paintings. We did not spend hours studying them, just "what does that look like to you" or "do you like the colors" or "doesn't that seem strange". We even saw some of them at the Orsay (which our son really liked at 5) before going out to Giverny.

At 5, our son enjoyed the Military Museum (seeing Napoleon's horse was his highlight). He also liked the Rodin Museum.

Our kids liked riding the boats, taking the Metro, playing in the parks, eating different foods, "treasure hunting" in Notre Dame, etc. Make the stops a game, and you can do many of the things you want to do. It takes a little imagination, but there is no reason to skip out on the things you want to do just because you have a kid in tow. You only need to work a little harder to get them interested in what oyu are doing. Oh, and we made time for ice cream every day.

When in spring wil you be going? Spring can often be cold and wet. We head off to Paris for a week one month from today, and we are planning for rain and cold and sun and warm. You never know what you will get this time of year.

Thanks DanM! We would probably be going the last week of March next year (spring break) but that's not set in stone. The other option would be the beginning of June but flights and hotels tend to be more pricey then.

My sons were a bit older than 4 first trip to France. They adored Paris but tired quickly. Absolute best trip to France with them was Provence. They adored the markets and the tiny villages, meandering from toy shop to glacee shop There are many wineries in the area and the boys actually enjoyed going to a couple. Don't give up on it entirely with kids. My boys are older now, the younger just turned 12, and are fantastic travelers. In Paris, why not try a crepe dinner at "Josselin"? Ham and cheese crepe for a main and choco for dessert can't be bad for a boy Mom and dad can enjoy some hard cider with theirs...not fancy or fussy, either!

Crepe dinner? now you are speaking my language!

If anyone has restaurant ideas I would love them!

Question - if we are there in late March, will most cafes have outside seating then or is it too chilly?

There's a souffle place, as well! 3 course souffle dinner I will try to find that address...or maybe someone else will pipe in. My guys love the walk-up crepe vendors, get a panini or crepe and they're happy as clams...

Le Souffle...website, lesouffle.fr

Steph,

We went to Paris when our children were 4 and almost 2. The suggestions above are great, and let me suggest several places that the kids particularly loved. First, the Jardin d'Acclimation was perfect: the kids called it the "Fun and Amusement Park," and it has the perfect carnival type rides for that age, along with wonderful playgrounds and a small zoo. That could easily occupy half to most of a day.

Get to the playground and related fun activities (puppet show, merry-go-round, pond) at the Luxembourg Gardens as often as possible (I took them every morning while DW slept in).

Baguettes and cheese made them very happy, but we did try dining out, and batted .500. Hippopotamus was recommended by many as a child-friendly restaurant, but even at their age they understood it was not good food. Far better was the Brasserie Ile St. Louis, where they had omelets and ice cream while we had excellent choucroute garni, chops, and a fantastic coq au reisling (we went twice, it was so good the first time). Crepes from crepe stands were also a big hit while out walking. Have a great time!

Ok, I'm ready to leave tomorrow! but alas, will have to wait until next year. Le Souffle sounds wonderful and laughing, thanks for the suggestions! Question - are the activities (puppet show etc) at the playground you mentioned free?

There will be outdoor seating available. You may not want it depending ont he weather, but it will ba available. We were there in February a c ouple of years ago, and many places had heaters set up.

Both the Luxembourg and the Jardin d'AcclimaTAtion (folks above are misspelling it, and if you are looking for it online important to have correct spelling)) have puppet shows (Guignol) on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays, also school holidays. There is a charge (around 4.5 euro), and they suggest arriving 30 minutes ahead of time.

There is also a fee to get into the Jardin d'Acclimatation and for the playground area at the Luxembourg.

Many of the cafes will have heaters for their outside seating. Unfortunately, that's also where all the smokers will sit because smoking indoors is banned. We like to sit outside because we feel like less of an inconvenience in bringing our son. But, if it looks like the smoke is too thick we will sit inside and I really don't think it bothers anyone.

Hippopotamus is really inedible food. We ate there on the child friendly recommendation. In Paris, you can do better.

The fee for Luxembourg is definitely worth it!

By the way -- if you ask my son where he would like to live he says Paris! This thread is making me itchy to go back.

If you can stay a little longer try renting an apartment so much easier with kids then he can watch french cartoons, I've listed things to do and great Parks in paris at www.myweekin.net, most bistros cater for kids 'menu enfants' but get them to try different things it might be the start of a culinary experience.

Ditto on the apartment. Here is one we like. http://www.perfectplaces.com/vacation-rentals/38447.htm

bookmark

DanM - from the apt you mentioned, did you have to take the metro to the Eiffel tower, Louvre and other popular points of interest or did you normally walk? I need to get a better map so I have an idea of where all of the neighborhoods are. thanks!

Excellent tips above. With our 6yo:

Multi-day Batobus passes were great, particularly if you get an apartment near the Seine. The per-day price goes down significantly as you extend beyond 2 days on those passes. A pleasant way to travel, and the chance to ride back after the end of a long walking day.

Sailboats on the fountain in the Tuileries were a big hit (as mentioned above they are also rented, for a nominal fee, at the Jardin du Luxembourg), also see the trampolines in the northwest corner of the Tuileries.

Little playgrounds everywhere--behind Notre Dame, in the Tuileries, at the foot of the Trocadero, a sandpit in the back of the gardens at the Rodin Museum. And the large playground (nominal fee) at Jardin du Luxembourg also was a hit.

We stumbled upon the pet shops along the Quai de la Mégisserie on our first day and were compelled to return twice during our stay.

We managed a quick trip through the Louvre (took the lower level entrance that takes you past the exposed castle foundation, then into the Egyptian section and up past Venus de Milo and Winged Victory to the Mona Lisa, etc.) Also a the aforementioned Rodin Museum and another quick trip through the Musee d'Orsay.

Our 6 yo was capable of riding his own bike on a Fat Tire Bike Tour of Versailles. For those who can't ride their own They have trailers for those up to 65 lbs, and "tandem trailers" (the child sits on his own seat and can pedal or not):
http://fattirebiketours.com/paris/faqs#children

thanks everyone!

Jeremy - from that hotel, were you able to walk to most of what you wanted to see or did you take the metro or other?

If you want to walk to most sites with a 4 year old, you need to stay in 4, 5, or 6 arrondissement, IMO, not the 17th!

Whoops, I meant "sights."

Another hotel with a cheap triple room. This is where my family of three stays (although that perfectplaces.com deserves another look!): http://hoteldelesperance.fr/

We buy pastries at the bakery on the corner and then walk across the street to the small park with a play structure. Nice way to start the day

Our 3 year old loved the metro. Walking everywhere wasn't necessarily what she wanted to do!

Steph, here is my trip report from 3 years ago.

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/trip-report----a-magical-paris-vacation-with-two-little-girls.cfm#last-comment

We leave tomorrow (argh) so I'm busy procrastinating packing. This time, we are taking all 3 kids and ages will be 10, 8, and 6 yrs. I look forward to doing a trip report when I return, but since I still haven't finished my London one from February, I may not be quick...