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Trip Report Paris when it sizzles

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We arrived in Paris yesterday, and today it is 92F in the shade.

No A/C in our rental, no A/C in the restaurant, no A/C on the bus, though the Metro is cool, unlike the T in Boston. We curtailed our plans, hung out in the Palais Royal garden this morning, moving our chairs to stay in the shade or breeze or sometimes both.

We went for lunch at our favorite wine bar, Le Rubis. There were only seven of us in the hidden dining room upstairs, but they were doing a good business in the bar and on the street, where you eat on top of a wine barrel.

The company upstairs was amusing if small. There is no compromise in the menu for heat. It is French, and it is traditional. A man sat in the corner approving all our choices: oeufs mayonnaise, salade de lentils (our concessions to the heat) and brandade de morue, the smaller portions being their concession to costs but enough to fill us and still leave a bit of room for the splendid pear tart. I am glad he liked our choices because it is what we always have on Fridays.

Closer to us were two friends having what was clearly a never-ending and enjoyable debate on French language, culture, and arts. It is exactly the kind of discussion recorded in the film "My Dinner with Andre" between Andre Gegory and Wallace Shawn. My French isn't good enough to catch it all, but one called the other "a Pangloss", they agreed that Moliere was the key to French language, and they showered each other with "pas de touts". They knew they were putting on a show, and we were an appreciative audience.

After, it was too hot for another garden, so we took the 48 bus through what I think of as Kerouac Country, crowded, multiethnic, packed, back to our flat on the Canal St Martin.

Cooler tomorrow, so I will tell you about our trip, the area where we are staying, and some of the things we do.

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