Saturday, March 10

Arriving the morning of Saturday, March 10 we deplaned, zipped through passport control and customs, and I picked up my bag all very quickly. I set off to get some cash and find the RER B. I am glad I had read some of the instructions on these boards re: finding it as it was a rather long trek and I might have given up without those tips.

I found the RER, bought my ticket, and made my way to the train. Please note that in many cases there were NOT escalators. Even though I only had one, light rollie bag, I had to carry it down many flights of stairs, and later up many flights of stairs when I arrived at my stop. In my lightly jet-lagged state, this was not welcome.

Oh, I should mention the restroom I visited before leaving for the RER. Maybe I was just jet-lagged, but I was really amused by the hot pink décor, painted or wallpapered in stripes, with what I can only describe as brothel-like embellishments.

Really, I was doing pretty well re: jet lag, but not perhaps as well as I thought as it took me days to realize that the reason I had not been able to reach the apartment management company (Glama Paris) once I arrived in Paris is that I completely forgot to drop the 0 when in Paris dialing the number. Darn it. I kept calling from the train, from the metro stop, and then when I arrived at the apartment, but no answer.

Out at the St. Michel metro stop I walk to the apartment, and since I had the door code from the contract I was able to enter the entry way with my luggage, but I could go no further. I pulled out the contract, and called the office (again, must have been the jet lag, don’t know why I didn’t think of it before!)

Within 15 minutes a lovely woman appeared with the keys, took me up to the apt, did the tour, had me sign more papers, checked and saw that the housekeeper had not come yet and called them to arrange for them to come in. All was well.

The Apartment

The apartment was absolutely fabulous! I would definitely stay there again. You can see it here, and, it really does look like the pictures: http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p473310

A friend was flying in from NY to meet me, and it was so much nicer to have an apt where we could sit around in the living room chatting away, then go to our respective rooms as needed.

A couple of people expressed concern about noise when they saw where it was (facing Place St. Michel and two blocks away, Notre Dame) and it was absolutely not a problem. The living room side with the windows faced in that direction, and with double-paned glass you could not hear the noise unless you opened the windows. The bedrooms were at the back, separated from the front by a hallway, and you couldn’t hear a thing back there.

It was actually really fun to watch some of the goings on out the windows—street performers, demonstrations, people gathering—and early in the morning, the street cleaners. There was also some sort of policemen setup right on the street below on many of the days that I couldn’t figure out. Policeman would just wave down drivers to pull over, then chit chat with them awhile. I never see them write tickets or anything. Hmm.

The socializing begins

My friend Fiona from Australia was in London, Paris, and headed to Madrid and was originally scheduled to leave Paris the week before I arrived. I apparently made such plaintive whimpering sounds that she rescheduled so that she was still in Paris the Saturday I arrived.

She arrived at the apartment around 1:00 and it was just so wonderful to see her. We chatted and watched from the window until my friend Adrienne arrived by taxi. After settling her in we headed out to get a small bite and wait the arrival of another friend and her family from Gif-sur-Yvette.

Ah, my first baguette with brie and ham, accompanied by a small lemon tart. Laure, her SO, and two children soon arrive, and as Roxane (4?) and I had done in NYC the previous June, we began sharing. I’m pretty sure Roxane got more of my lemon tart than I did.

We are just all pleased to be together, no particular plans in mind. We walked over towards Notre Dame, and the rather huge crowds there on a Saturday afternoon. We then walked towards Marche aux Fleurs, and Adrienne and Fiona peeled off to visit St. Chappelle. Laure and the children and I wandered a bit at the flower market, but soon decided that the children might be better served by a visit to a park/playground.

We walked up to a small park adjacent to Musee de Cluny (Musee National du Moyenage)

Her children are adorable (of course) as are the many other children at the park, dressed to the nines as possibly only Parisian children can be. One especially cute little girl has a white beret, red jacket, and pink shoes. It’s fun to watch the families and the kids while we catch up.

Fiona and Laure’s SO arrived, having dropped off Adrienne back at the apartment for a short rest. We crossed the street for a small coffee, then sent Olivier, Roxane and Gaston home as we were headed for a girl’s dinner out. We then set out to find a supermarche and a bakery for provisions for the apt.

Hm. Turns out we should have walked 50 yards from where we were and would have found one. Instead, we wandered all the way to Rue de Buci, purchasing flutes, wine, tea, coffee, butter and milk. It was back up Rue Saint-Andre des Arts to the apartment, with time for a nice glass of wine before heading out.

In deference to A’s and my delicate state (I still had no nap or rest at all, A was ahead of me there) we took a taxi to dinner at L’Ecluse on Place Madeleine (http://www.lecluse-restaurant-paris.fr/restaurant-l-ecluse-madeleine.html). Lots of laughter and fine conversation, another taxi ride through the Paris night, and the first evening ends.

Good start - waiting for more!

Nice apartment. Interesting to hear what you were doing in Paris since I didn't get to chat with you at the GTG.

Your apartment does look very good, I think watching children in thr parcs or at a favorite shop of mine, DAyrolle is a pleasure

/I'm waiting for your experiences in the Tuileries,
knowing one path is for prostitutes another for drag queens or
sinple homosexual adventures

Sunday, March 11

After a bit of a sleep in (BTW, the stopping eating 12-15 hours before the new morning seemed to work fairly well, I had some but minimal jet lag) Adrienne and I got up and walked over to Ile de la Cite to the Marche aux Fleurs which is joined by the le Marché aux Oiseaux on Sundays. I am not sure why I do this to myself when traveling, as I cannot bring home the beautiful flowers and plants, but I love it.

Lots and lots of flowers, plants, lemon and orange trees, bonsai, garden accoutrements, and even an orchid house. There are rows of beautiful birds, and their supplies, including some fabulous bird cages. Mostly I take pictures, but Adrienne buys a hand towel embroidered with lavender to take back to the apartment which is lacking a hand towel in the toilet.

From there we headed back towards Notre Dame as I particularly wanted to see the statue of Charlemagne (really spectacular, although I kept finding myself humming Steely Dan’s Kid Charlemagne). I had in mind a couple of other things, but, as we walked up to the church we saw no line and decided to take advantage, cruising right in.

Everywhere you looked was something else of beauty. We both lit candles, and quietly walked through the sanctuary at our leisure. For the most part, people were respectful, which was good to see.

After Notre Dame we stopped quickly by the apartment, then decided to head up to Musee de Cluny (Moyenage - http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/) We were both a bit hungry but only wanted a fast bite. We were waved down at a café with an offer of a free glass of wine (I decline to take responsibility for this as it was A’s decision to stop). My lunch was actually quite nice, a galette with cheese and mushrooms, and the wine of course was abominable.

It didn’t matter, we were having fun, watching people go by, enjoying our lunches.

At the museum I was most interested in seeing the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries so with limited time we split up and I beelined up to the gallery where these were hung. It was so worth it, these tapestries are incredible. The other tapestries in the museum paled in comparison to the brilliant colors in these.

Of course, having read Tracy Chevalier’s The Lady and the Unicorn prior to Paris made it even more fun. I spent quite a bit of time in that gallery as there was simply so much to look at and for in the different tapestries of which there are 6 total. It’s a small museum so I did manage to see a few more rooms before closing, including the frigadarium which fascinated me. Roman walls people!

Leaving the museum, we were looking up at the outer walls, wondering what the seashells on the walls meant. Well, I looked up how many tapestries there were in my handy dandy Fodor’s guide (wanted to make sure I was right) and read this: “symbols of the abbot’s power literally surround the building…The scallop shells Coquilles-saint-Jacques covering the façade are a symbol of religious pilgrimage, another important source of income for the abbot” It goes on, but hey, the guide really does come in handy sometimes. Now I know about those decorative shells mean!

After the museum we wander back over to Rue de Buci, stop at Paul’s for another flute, and stop at the market for fruit, cheese, nuts, olives, and wine. Back at the apartment we relax and nosh.

cigale, you'll have a bit of a wait, the pickup event happened on Thursday. It was definitely heterosexual, and I at least hope he didn't think I was a prostitute. And, it wasn't my imagination, the fella slipped me a note complete with phone number and a request to call. Can't quite figure it out, as a short, round, 50+ year old, but I am going with he was charmed by my smile and deep brown eyes.

bmk

I am so glad I read this! I wasn't planning to visit Musee de Cluny on my trip next month, but I certainly will now. I have always loved the images of the tapestries on Limoge plates, but never really focused on where the tapestries are located. Thanks!

Toucan2, I am reading your report with great interest because we will be in Paris for the first time in July/August & staying at Hotel Bonaparte. At Adrienne's suggestion, I plan on buying the Museum Pass at the Cluny Museum when we arrive. And I have tentatively scheduled in a visit to this museum; it sounds great! Christine also suggested the market on Rue Buci. What is Paul's?

what is the L'Ecluse restaurant like & its prices?

"...he was charmed by my smile and deep brown eyes."

Who wouldn't be?

I won't tell you the pickup line the guy used on me in the Tuileries in 1972, but it had something to do with oversized body parts (his, not mine).

Monday, March 12

The day has arrived for the Fodor GTG. Yippee! But that’s later on in the evening.

A and I are getting very late starts! We don’t get to see each other much, so do find ourselves chatting until the wee hours. Eventually, though, we make our way out the door. The weather from Monday through Friday was just spectacular. Let’s just say I didn’t need the cuddle-duds I had packed.

The Pantheon

A wanted to visit the Pantheon, in particular to visit Madame Curie’s grave, so we made our way there. I had started noticing and making mention of all the book and record stores, including used, and vinyl records. Duh! It takes until Monday for me to realize that of course it is a university district, and like any student enclave, one must have books and music, and the ability to sell your used stuff to others. A lengthy visit will be in order later in the week to seek out CDs for my husband.

You probably know more about the Pantheon than I did; it wasn’t really on my list of places to visit. But, I did start to learn a little, including the very cool pendulum hanging from the dome. As the earth moves, you can tell time based on where the pendulum swings! Very cool. More importantly however, is that this was the pendulum that Foucalt used to prove the rotation of the earth.

The immediate space that you enter is gigantic, and mostly empty except for the pendulum. The ceilings and the interior of the dome are what pull my interest most here. And, although the weather outside is unseasonably warm, it is frigid inside the Pantheon. There are some space heaters here and there, and I keep sneaking over to warm myself.

I also think the probably 6 or 7 feet full scale model of the Pantheon with cutaway in one adjacent room was very very cool. We then descended into the crypt, and I surprisingly found this very interesting as well. (I say surprisingly because going to crypts wasn’t really on radar, but because A wanted to visit here and Pere la Chaise I found that I did in fact think this stuff was interesting.)

We checked out the Curies, Victor Hugo, Dumas, and more, reading the information boards posted here and there. And again, the building is just beautiful.

A walk, lunch, some more walking

Emerging from the Pantheon, my first view this trip of the Eiffel Tower! Photo opp!

So much of what you enjoy in Paris is just walking, and looking, and checking out window displays, and buildings, and people wandering along with you that it is hard to convey just how enjoyable this is when you are writing a trip report.

From the Pantheon we wandered down along the Jardin du Luxemborg, stopping at a café for lunch. A croque monsieur for me, salad for A, and people watching for all. Lots of people with their pooches, and some really cute purses and boots. More wandering through neighborhoods, crossing the Seine on Pont Neuf.

A tells me that the rounded cutouts with benches placed along the bridge were originally to accommodate musicians. Another “I did not know that!” moment. We poked our head into Place Dauphine, then continued across and up along the Seine, cutting over to Jardin des Tuileries with destination Musee de l’Orangerie in mind.

Musee de l'Orangerie

The museum was closed the last time I was here, so this was a priority for me. Seeing these as Monet had envisioned the installation was just, well, it appears I don’t have words to describe. The museum also changed the lighting while we were there, and it was fascinating to see how the paintings changed with the different light. And, I feel really stupid here, but I had not realized there are actually two large oval galleries with 4 paintings each. So don’t miss the second gallery (but you probably wouldn’t have anyway).

Time is working against us again, as both A and I have evening plans. A is going out with a friend of hers who lives in Paris, and I am going to meet the Fodorites! So, we have to head back to the apt to freshen up, get a little rest, and then head out again.

A Fodor GTG

At last! The night had arrived! Annhig and her DH were staying nearby so I met up with them and we took the Metro to Place Madeleine. Others have already reported on this, we met up at Lavinia, but moved next door to share 2 bottles of wine selected by Tomas, DH of AGMCapeCod—our resident sommelier.

A lovely interlude, then we all trekked over to Neva Cuisine, following Patty like a line of ducklings. And, the final destination was totally worth it. An excellent dinner, great service, and fabulous company. If only the evening could have continued. I can’t express enough how special an evening it was. Great to meet all of you!

Centralparkgirl, I'm glad this was helpful to you!

Kwoo, Paul's is a boulangerie. I think it is a chain of some sort, but the bread was fabulous and I was familiar with it, and this is where I bought our small flutes and baguettes throughout the visit. We also bought our flowers there in the market.

Nikki-LOL!

More!....do you have a toucan?

The Tuileries, huh? Who knew?

Looking forward to more!

So glad to get another report from the recent Paris GTG group. This such fun. Thanks.

Kwoo,
L'Ecluse is a small chain of wine bars that are basically open all the time so good for dining at odd hours. If I recall correctly, the mains are around 20 euros or less. Because it's a wine bar, you can also eat pretty light and aren't necessarily expected to order a full meal (though you can if you want to).

Mimi, no toucan. I just think they are neat and I started coming to Fodors when I was planning a trip to Belize--where I saw my first Toucan.

Patty thanks for that. I forgot to answer kwoo's question. I wasn't super impressed with L'Ecluse. It was okay, but not outstanding.

I think it's fine for what it is. Nothing to go out of your way for but convenient if you're in the neighborhood, want a couple of glasses of wine and a nibble.

I agree Patty. And it definitely served our purpose that night and was fun.

bookmarking

Thanks for the info on L'Ecluse!

Tuesday, March 13

After arriving back at the apartment, oh, say about midnight? Adrienne and I then proceeded to chat until 2 am! Seriously we needed to get ahold of ourselves! But, we were just having such a good time. But this meant that the next morning I barely got up in enough time to shower shampoo and shine before going off to meet my friend Laure for lunch. A headed off to lunch with her cousin who is currently living in Paris, and we would meet up later.

Lunch and Shopping

No major sightseeing, just a great time lunching with my friend, walking, and shopping. I met Laure at the Café at Musee Jacquemart-Andre for lunch. I was a bit early, so took a table out on the (veranda?), ordered a coffee, and caught up in my journal. The grounds are so beautiful here, and again it was fun to people-watch some as well.

Cafe Jacquemart-Andre

Laure and I were ladies who lunched, and spent about two hours doing so! The salads were all really interesting looking and both of us had the Montagna, which was really delicious. I think all of the salads are named after artists.

In any case, if one has salads, one may also have desert, correct? I had what may possibly be the best lemon meringue pie I ever had in my life, and Laure the raspberry tart (don’t worry, I will do a whole food section later so it is all in one place). And then tea. A nice, long, leisurely lunch, as it should be. I would definitely recommend the Café if you visit this museum.

Now, more walking. We walked together to L’s office on Boulevard Malesherbes and I continued on to Place de la Madeleine, window shopping, checking out building, people-watching all the way.

At Place de la Madeleine I stopped at Hediard (what beautiful food), Mariage Freres (the fragrance is delightful) then Fauchon. For some reason I have remained fascinated by pates and terrines, and so I bought an interesting looking one at Fauchon, along with cheeses and sausages.

Hediard, Mariage Freres, Fauchon

I had forgotten about the French process for making purchases in such stores. I took my selection to a woman at a counter, she made out a slip and pointed me (really to another building) to a cashier who took my money, then it was back with my receipt to the first one who wrapped my packages and handed to me in a lovely bag. All the shop attendants are beautifully dressed, as they were at Hediard, and later at Maison du Chocolat. Essentially uniforms, but uniforms with style.

www.hediard.fr
www.mariagefreres.com
www.fauchon.com


Headed to E. Dehillerin

I proceeded to take the metro to Chatelet, emerge, and turn myself around in multiple circles trying to find E. Dehillerin. I spied a Starbucks and saw an opportunity to hook into some wifi so I could find my way, and have a coffee as well. Feet rested, caffeine ingested, and wifi accessed, I then proceeded on my way.

Ahead I see a number of people taking pictures of a shop window. Naturally I stop because it must be something worthwhile, right? Yep, rats in the window. Dancing rats, acrobat rats, dead rats. The next day Michael Osman tells me this is where the exterminators for Les Halles are located. I did take a picture of course.

See what fun things you come across just walking?

My normally good sense of direction seems to have abandoned me on this day, and I completely circle St. Eustache before I realize the direction of E.D. At last, I arrive!
For those not familiar, this is a shop for kitchen, restaurant and catering supplies, AND Julie Child shopped there Smart marketers, there is a picture of Julie behind the counter. I would describe it almost as a hardware shop for serious cooks. It’s got stone walls, creaky wooden floors, crowded aisles, and tons of shoppers. I loved it!

I went down every aisle, and descended to the basement where there were huge paella pans, copper pots, enameled cast iron casseroles and more. I would have loved to bought many items, but visions of just how heavy these things were kept me from it.

I did want to buy something though, just to say I did. I had in mind a mandoline and headed back upstairs where I spotted one. I lifted it, and still it was very heavy. As I stood there weighing it in my hand, and weighing over how much I wanted to carry it in my baggage, a very nice shop agent came over to me.

He asked what I wanted to use it for, described to me the details of this particular mandoline, and then suggested I would be better with another one, lighter, less expensive, and better suited for the home cook. Such great service. I also picked up a fish spatula, and was ready to make my purchase.

Again, the shop agent who assisted me took it to one table. They wrote out a ticket which I then took to the cash desk. I paid, then took the receipt back to the table where they wrapped up my mandoline and fish turner, and sent me on my way.

http://www.e-dehillerin.fr/en/

Home via our market street, to spend an evening in

I walked back to our neighborhood via Pont Neuf to Rue de Buci where I stopped in at Paul’s for our flute, next door at Carrefour for a bottle of wine, and back up Rue Saint Andre des Arts to our apartment. A lovely evening in drinking wine, eating bread and cheese and pate and sausage and fruit. We needed to get to bed a little earlier tonight because the next day we were to meet up with Michael Osman, tour guide extraordinaire!

A Fodor GTG

At last! The night had arrived! Annhig and her DH were staying nearby so I met up with them and we took the Metro to Place Madeleine. Others have already reported on this, we met up at Lavinia, but moved next door to share 2 bottles of wine selected by Tomas, DH of AGMCapeCod—our resident sommelier.

A lovely interlude, then we all trekked over to Neva Cuisine, following Patty like a line of ducklings. And, the final destination was totally worth it. An excellent dinner, great service, and fabulous company. If only the evening could have continued. I can’t express enough how special an evening it was. Great to meet all of you!>>

Hi Toucan2 - how true! it was a great evening, and over far too soon. i love your line about us following Patty [and her i-pad] like a line of ducklings. I want to go back to Paris just to be able to have another GTG [so long as all the same people promise to turn up!]

Seriously, [and how stupid is this?] it had not really occurred to me before what fun there is to be had in a city like Paris travelling by oneself but meeting up with various friends while you're there. Paris is ideal because there is so much to see and do and there will always be fodorites there to meet up with. Definitely something I am thinking about for a future trip, especially as DH has said that he's fallen out of love with Paris

looking forward to tomorrow!

I'm in.

If there's any way possible, count me in too!

>>So much of what you enjoy in Paris is just walking, and looking, and checking out window displays, and buildings, and people wandering along with you that it is hard to convey just how enjoyable this is when you are writing a trip report.>>

I think a lot of people on this Forum totally get this!

Super report; I'm really enjoying it. I have the same problem with late night gab sessions when I travel with girlfriends I don't see that often. I can't even believe I can stay up that late, but it happens time and again.

It sounds to me like my 1987 Avenue Foch story wouldn't hold a candle to your & Nikki's Tuileries stories.

Me too! And London, and NY, and...

It's true. I've had that experience elsewhere as well and it adds another element to the trip, not only the social aspect but of discovering new things together.

My goal is to get one day written each night. I know I write too much detail, I can't seem to stop myself. But it is fun to relive, and hopefully the headings lead people to useful information.

Wonderful report! I'm going to print it out and enjoy it.
It's of particular interest to me as I'm going in July and staying very close to where you did.
So many great ideas and tips - thank you!

I can't wait for your Thursday report. I travel solo and every visit to Paris I spend time in the Tuileries. Had no idea there was a lane for prostitutes! Clearly, I've never walked that way.

Thank you for the report, am enjoying it. I'm in Paris for a couple of days in September and if there's a GTG going on then I'd sure like to join you.

Pat.

It's true. I've had that experience elsewhere as well and it adds another element to the trip, not only the social aspect but of discovering new things together.

For a second there, I thought you were referring to the pickup

"For a second there, I thought you were referring to the pickup"

Wait, you weren't?

Hey, the pick up was pretty new, I haven't had a pick up note passed to me since HS.

Wednesday March 14

I Love Michael Osman Day

I had been reading about Michael Osman for years. I had tried to book a day with him in 2004, but unfortunately I gave him too short of notice and he wasn’t available then. This year I was successful! Michael is an American living in Paris and he will spend a day with you in Paris, doing whatever you wish. Museums, churches, cemeteries, flea markets, neighborhoods, whatever you desire.

And, this is at a very reasonable 125 Euros (not each, that was total) for the day, from morning until the museums close or you get tired. You pay any entrance, transportation and meal costs. (Michael has a museum pass and the metro card; this would be entrance and transportation fees outside of that.)

Most importantly, Michael is just great fun. I hated to see the day end and would have loved another day or more with him. Email him at parisfind@aol.com. Be patient, it may be a few days to get back to you, and sometimes things go to junk mail, just email again.

So, Michael arrived nine-ish, and came up to the apartment where we all shared coffee and chatted. We left around 10. Do you notice a trend here? Chatting is clear a pastime at which we excel.

Pere Lachaise

Adrienne had wanted to visit Pere Lachaise and I am so glad we had Michael with us for the visit. We walked from the apt over to Rue de Seine (I think, now I am not sure, not that it matters) and caught a bus to PC. Riding the bus has some of the same joys as walking through neighborhoods as you can just look around and ride. There are women out now on the sidewalks selling small bouquets of narcissus. Spring has arrived.

Michael has us ride the bus to the top of the cemetery so we were walking downhill the whole way and we entered from the back of the cemetary. As I mentioned earlier, PLC wasn’t on my radar, but I am so glad we went. Even without visiting the celebrity graves, it is an incredible experience wandering the 105 acres of Pere Lachaise.

So many different styles of tombstones, crypts and chapels. So many poignant remembrances. The tombs that have places for plants to grow particularly draw me. One has a cross set the full length of the tomb cut out, filled with plants.

It was really nice to just follow Michael about. We saw lots of people with their maps in hand, and it looked like a lot more work! In addition, Michael could point out so many more things than just the final resting spots of the famous, although certainly he did that as well. We got a giggle when Michael said to us “Now, you need to be quiet for this next one.” And it was the grave of Marcel Marceau.

Of Particular Interest to Me at Pere Lachaise

<bOscar Wilde’s grave—So many people had written on and kissed the monument that is now surrounded by plexiglass. However, people continue to leave writings, often in lipstick and the day we were there it made for a very cool shadow effect as the writings on the plexiglass appeared in shadow on the monument.

Edith Piaf—it’s personal, I went to a wonderful cabaret called No Regrets in Philadelphia this summer at the Wilma Theater. So I had to take pictures and send to my friends.

The row of memorials to Buchenwald, Auschwitz, and Ravensbruck – hauntingly beautiful and sobering.

Modigliani – Along with the stones left on the grave, people left small drawings in the style of Modigliani as tributes.

Parmentier - French agronomist known for enunciating the dietary value of potatoes – where someone had left a potato as tribute.

There was so much more, and without Michael I think we would have missed quite a bit. He added color and depth to the day.

As we left the cemetery, Michael offered to let us take the Pere Lachaise challenge if we needed to use the toilet—an old fashioned pole and a hole. Although if I recall, I think he said there wasn’t even a pole. We declined and stopped across the way for a light lunch. More enjoyable conversation, a coffee, and we made our way to the metro to head to Pompideau.

Pompideau

http://www.centrepompidou.fr/Pompidou/Accueil.nsf/Document/HomePage?OpenDocument&L=2

This visit was primarily for me. While I had visited the building once before, and the bookstore, I had seen none of the collection. Michael led the way, and first we went to the very top for the absolutely stunning view out over Paris. In the distance I can see Sacre Coeur.

We spend most of our time then on Level 5, where most of the art that interested me was located. I am thrilled to see that there is quite a collection of Kupka! Without even knowing they were his paintings I kept gravitating to them.

I had been interested in Franz (Frantisek) Kupka probably since I was 16 and saw a painting of his in the Art Institute of Chicago. In September I visited Prague and the small Kampa museum where there was a collection of his work, and now this!

I saw an opportunity here and after we were done looking a the works of the collection I beelined to the bookstore and was so happy to find two books, one in English and one in Spanish, on Kupka. I have had a hard time finding any, even in Prague (they were all in Czech, well duh). Adrienne and Michael indulged me and waited as I searched the bookstore.

We left the building and walked through the square, enjoying buskers, and chalk drawings, and children playing football in front of the Stravinsky Fountain.

St. Merri

It is now time to celebrate all things St. Merri. Why? Because my name is Merri. And although you see that spelling occasionally now, for many many years you never saw it. And here in Paris, there is an Eglise St. Merri (although sometimes you will see alternate spellings of Merry), a Rue St. Merri, something that looks like a cloister labeled with St. Merri (yeah, that wouldn’t work for me) and more. So I made Adrienne and Michael visit them all.

At Eglise St. Merri there is some kind of installation of life-sized sort of freaky looking, I don’t know what to call them! Maybe lifesize puppets? They look like people, with exaggerated, clay like features. There are several sitting at the door, and several inside the sanctuary. We never did figure that out.

Chocolat Chaud, and home

Adrienne and Michael have been indulging me a lot, and now it is time to take a seat at a sidewalk café for some hot chocolate (me) tea (A) and beer (M). People watching and more conversation. Unfortunately, I had left my coat at the apartment that morning (again, that week the weather was unbelievable) and as evening fell I just got too cold to stay out further. Michael walked us as far as Ile de la Cite, and then we said good-bye. Too soon! I Love Michael Osman

<It sounds to me like my 1987 Avenue Foch story wouldn't hold a candle to your & Nikki's Tuileries stories.> Yankygal, I think you are now required to elaborate!

lantana, I'm glad it is helpful to you!

Pat in Chicago, what time in September are you in Paris? I believe there is a big GTG going on, it's probably posted here somewhere. If I can find it I will add a link.

PS I didn't now there was a lane for prostitutes either until cigalechanta mentioned it! The things you learn on Fodors

Dang it I just realized I typed Julie Child above. Twice. Ugh.

For some reason I only get the Homeaway main page when I open that link. PLus, I have tried putting in the number, without the "p" in front of it to no avail. I am so surprised that it seems to have worked for everyone else.

linda, it worked for me previously, but I just tried it now and it is just going to the Homeaway page. Later tonight I'll see if I can find it again. Maybe they don't list with Homeaway anymore.

Try this: http://www.glamaparis.com/details?id=36&lang=fr

Thanks. I couldn't figure out how to see the nightly rates. When you get anohter link, let me know because it looks great!

curious about the link. it worked yesterday but not today. perhaps they are updating some of the information or photographs.

thanks for the info re: Sept GTG, I'll search the site for more info. I'm there 2 days (Friday 14 Sept & Saturday 15 Seppt) and then back for 2 more days (Thurs 20 Sep and Friday 21 Sep).

PLC is one of my favorite walks. I had seen all the red lip marks on Oscar Wilde's monument the first time I was there, some 15 years ago, and when I read Dorian Grey and came across the line about the red kisses I got so excited because I finally got it!

This report is incredible. Thank you so much for sharing.
I'm getting lots of great tips (like entering PLC through its Gambetta entrance) - and oohing and aahing quite a bit (women selling bouquets of narcissus on the corner; Kupka at Pompidou...)
Oh, and I love the name Merri ♥

Googling Franz Kupka's works makes it easy to understand your attraction to them. I'm so jealous of your day with someone like Michael Osman.

There is a query about PLC--he might benefit from this.

Great report!

Had no idea there was a lane for prostitutes! Clearly, I've never walked that way.>>

what way do you walk then, Pat? [the old ones are the best!]

toucan2 - thanks for carrying on with the report - i haven't even started mine!

We missed you guys at the Pompidou by a day.

I credit my time living in New Orleans with getting me hooked on cemeteries. They've been part of many of my travel itineraries, which some people find strange! I liked PLC a lot, and I liked reading about what, in particular, struck you.

Plus, you reminded me that my husband hasn't been there yet, so it moves to the top of the list for the next Paris visit.

Still enjoying your report, Merri - and I loved the Merri-themed activities. Fun!

I too enjoy visiting the cemeteries in Paris. I wish I had Michael with me at Pere Lachaise. I love the one in Montmartre. It was opened in 1825 and the crypts are so interesting with stained glass and gargoyles and so much more.
http://www.peter-pho2.com/2011/05/more-tombs-montmartre-cemetery.html

Beautiful pics gomiki.

Yes, cemeteries may now have start being part of my itineraries!

annhig, I know how hard it is to get started! I don't think I am going to have time tonight or tomorrow, maybe the weekend before I am able to write more.

Patty, darn! I did wonder whether some of us would run into each other again at some point

BOOKMARKING

By KC, I assume you left from MCI - Kansas City. Glad to hear from another local who loves Paris. DW and I went in '06 and last year and are planning our 3rd trip for May of 13 now.

Enjoyed your report!

Yes, sorry, don't know why I didn't put the airport code on that apersuader.

Planning is half the fun I think, so have fun planning for 13!

I'll try to get back to the report this weekend. I'm actually just starting another vacation this afternoon!

you know, I'm supposed to be working but noooooo, instead I come online to read more of your trip report only to have to wait. And so I shall !! Enjoy your next vacation.

Pat.

Sorry about that Pat

Soon, I promise! I am actually going to try to write a bit this afternoon.

This may be the best trip report I have read so far. I love the detail you add to things, not at all boring! I'm planning a trip for September and have bookmarked this!

Thursday, March 16

Last Day for the Museum Pass, My Name is Laurent, Dinner at Allards

The week is flying by! It’s the last day for our 4-day museum passes so this was designated museum day. We got up and moving a bit faster than we had been (but not really). We had used the last of our coffee in the apartment so first headed down the street for some coffee, more chatting (I know, I know) and window shopping our way back to the apartment (scoping out things for another day).

Still, we were out the door probably before 10. This was pretty good for us.

Sainte Chapelle

I had been to Ste. Chapelle before, as had Adrienne, but wanted to visit again on a sunny day to get the full impact of the spectacular stained glass windows. Today was such a day. Maybe 2 blocks from where we were, this was our first stop.

It was just as glorious as I had imagined it would be on a sunny day. Apparently there has been some recent cleaning, so possibly even more glorious than in past days. There are really informative information cards that will lead you around from window to window, which tell basically all the stories in the bible.

The stained glass is spectacular, but I am just as fascinated by how pretty much every little thing is decorated so beautifully. I become one with my camera, taking pictures of all the supports that are painted, and the stone floors that I can only describe as pictorial in nature. I probably should read a book about this as I found it so fascinating.

Last time we were there I don’t remember going out the front doors of the upstairs chapel. This time we did, and again spent quite some time looking at all the carved reliefs telling a story.

Although the lower chapel (is this where the servants and the poor people worshipped?) can’t hold a candle the upper chapel, I still think it is beautiful and we spent a bit of time there before I went shopping.

At Cluny there were several tapestry style pillow covers made to look as if they had been part of one of the tapestries of The Lady and The Unicorn. I had eyed them, but ultimately not purchased. I found myself drawn to them again and finally had a little talk with myself.

When was I going to be back in Paris again? Just buy them, you clearly want them, it doesn’t matter if you don’t know exactly what you will do with them or give them as a gift. You think they are beautiful, you will figure out something. So I did.

A simple pattern of dark blue with a gold fleur-de-lis. So it is a souvenir both of Cluny and Ste. Chapelle (decorated with fleur-de-lis in the lower chapel).

A Nice Walk

We were next headed to the Louvre. We meandered quite a bit. Every time we found ourselves on a main street, we veered off so we could peek through neighborhoods. We completely circled the old Samartaine building. Someone told us they are being converted to condos or maybe a hotel. Is that true? What a beautiful old building. I loved the (tile?) around the top, with many of the department names displayed. We saw entrances to schools, and small tucked away restaurants. A fun wander.

The Louvre

I find myself drawn to the smaller, more intimate museums—Rodin, Picasso, and the like. I also tend to not be particularly drawn to the art that makes up the collections at the Louvre. And it is just so big, and there are lots of people, too many people. Thus, I had not been.

But, we have museum passes, and I should go so people will stop asking me if I had visited and I can stop saying, well I walked through the courtyard.. So we did.

There were in fact lots and lots of people. I can only imagine what this place is like when it is high season. I’d probably have an anxiety attack.

Still, I find the building itself truly fabulous. There’s nothing like this in Steilacoom (where I grew up)  I am amused that there are big signs with arrows pointing to the big three. This seems like a sign (get it? I slay me) so we follow the arrows.

Winged Victory of Samothrace, Mona Lisa, and Venus de Milo

Winged Victory is really beautiful, and not so many people around that you cannot circle around and appreciate it from all angles. While distracting, the woman visitor shouting into her cell phone for a good ten minutes does not take away from the beauty. (Who says the French are not polite? Security guards just look at her with a bemused expression on their faces, but no one approaches her. In New York museum personnel would have none of this nonsense.)

You all know what they say, you can’t get close to the Mona Lisa, it is small, etc. Well, the fact is that you can’t get close to the Mona Lisa and it is small (the small part does not bother me). But you can’t even get close enough to look at and appreciate what makes the Mona Lisa so special, the sfumato technique. Bleh, time to move on.

By the way, we are looking at other art as we move through. As we leave the Mona Lisa we move through one gallery that is filled with particularly beautiful sculptures, including Hermaphrodite. It still boggles my mind how sculptors can create such beauty out of stone

Venus de Milo is beautiful as well. I circle it, looking from the back to see the classical S shape of the body even more clearly. I even managed to get a picture with no one else in it but Venus!

Getting out of the Louvre is not as easy as getting in, but eventually we escape. I am glad I went, but I really need to return and plan a better visit to truly appreciate it, and I would probably be better off going with someone like Michael Osman.

My Name is Laurent

As I have mentioned (several times, I know, but it was such a surprise!) the weather was really fantastic. Is anything better than strolling through the Tuileries on a warm sunny day? A man walked by pushing a cart of sailboats for the fountains.

We took our time, and as we approached the outdoor café decided it was time for lunch. It was a tasty, simple lunch. I smiled at the waiter, said bonjour, ordered in my pitiful French, nothing out of line, I swear. We were enjoying the weather and the view, watching all the other walkers and diners.

I paid for lunch, and the waiter gave me my change. He then slid something towards me and says, this is for you. Merci I say with a smile, thinking nothing of it. I put away my change then opened the folded piece of paper. It says, my name is Laurent, and has his phone number. At the bottom of the small slip of paper is an arrow pointing to the other side! It goes on to say he lives near Place Italie, and if I want to meet him, call.

Seriously, I think this is my favorite souvenir from Paris! I’ve been with my husband since I was 18, I’m over 50 and round. I don’t get pickup notes! I don’t even care if he hands out a similar note to every American woman he sees, I’m ignoring that possibility and going with (as I said earlier) that he was charmed by my smile and dark brown eyes.

To be continued….

Stellar, I am so glad you are enjoying it! I hope you are indeed getting some useful info.

I have been enjoying your report especially your encounter with Laurent. I will hopefully find him next year to receive a cherished note. My experience happened four years ago at a market in the 7th. I was shopping with my three adult children when this very short mideastern man walked up to me and said "I love big women. Will you sleep with me?" I was so shocked that anyone would notice an old, middle-aged large and very tall woman that I couldn't stop laughing. My daughter was horrified and told him to get away. At least Laurent loved your smile and eyes-my man just wanted my size!

Loving these pickup stories. I was in E. Dehillerin, the'
famous cooking gadget, pots and pans store. The saleman gave me his card and number and to call him. I was flattered(not rally) until I wrote my trip report and another poster said he gave her the same invitation.

Great report. I'll be there in two weeks; staying right near the Tuileries in fact.

Any message that you'd like me to pass on to Monsieur Laurent?

definitely one of the advantages ? of solo travel!

There were in fact lots and lots of people. I can only imagine what this place is like when it is high season. I’d probably have an anxiety attack.>>

we were there in January last year and the Louvre was mad. we deliberately headed away from the crowds and when we had had our fill [I have an inbuilt 2 hour museum limit, after which I want to get out asap] we couldn't find the exit! we'd follow the exit signs, only for them to disappear round the next corner. after about an hour, panic was definitely beginning to set in! I began to feel that i should have laid a trail like Handsel and Gretel. [more like Theseus in some of the darker corners]. Eventually we made it out via the Egyptian section - which we had had no intention at all of seeing!

loving your report, Toucan. BTW I certainly wouldn't say round - more like curvy!

Wonderful report!

Is there any reason why the good folks at the Louvre couldn't just put the big 3 in one room and be done with it?

I have to wonder if anyone ever calls these guys...

I ended up in the Egyptian rooms by mistake last year at the Louvre. Turned out to be the most fascinating part of my visit. I thought I was using them as a short cut to the rooms I really wanted to see, and when I got to the end of the corridor I learned you can't get there from here, even though it looked like you could on the map. I think that happens a lot.

Wonderful!

So hilarious about the (attempted) pick-ups

I have so enjoyed walking through Paris with you----reliving favorite places and noting new ideas. Merci!

I ended up in the Egyptian rooms by mistake last year at the Louvre.>>

we might have been there at the same time, nikki, all desperately trying to find the exit!

Great report Toucan. Nice to be able to spend time with friends who live far away in a place like Paris.

I didn't get to Dehellerin this time where I wanted to buy the silpat for the scallop dish and to visit the copper confisture pan that I was too stupid to buy when the rate was .85 per Euro.

I am so enjoying this, Toucan2! We leave 5/1 and arrive in Paris 5/5 for 2 weeks. I am getting lots of ideas. Thank you!

I love hearing everyone's (attempted) pick up stories too. How funny!

annhig, okay, curvy blonde with dark brown eyes it is. Hm. That does sound much better!

Abby, perhaps you would have run into cigalechanta's salesman! I have to admit, my E. Dehellerin salesman bordered on swoonworthy, that note might have been treasured. No knock on "my" Laurent, who was also attractive--say Bonjour CentralParkGirl.

Fabulous Judy! I will enjoy reading about your time there.

Too tired tonight for more trip report, yes, I am on vacation again. Hopefully more tomorrow.

French pick-ups often have everything to do with the contacts and slips of paper with phone numbers. No wasting time with the same old pick-up lines. Of course, younger generations don't have the bits of paper anymore and just enter their numbers on each other's mobile phone.

Really enjoying your report....hats off to everyone who writes these, I tried once and it is not so easy...so a BIG thank you to all that do!! Heading back to Paris in October so it's great to read the detail and picture myself on the streets again...

Thank you kmowatt.

linsacova and others, the homeaway link to the apartment is working again. I also noticed they raised the rent. So maybe it was just down for updating.

Now, to try to get a bit more written and posted.

Oh, sorry, linsacova to directly answer your question, the rent is now 2300 Euros per week. If you check out outside certain times, say Sunday as we did, you pay 50 euros directly to the person who comes to check you out.

I would definitely rent the apartment again, and enjoyed working with the agency, Glama Paris.

Thursday, March 15 continued (whoops, typed the 16th above)

Musee de l’Orangerie

After Laurent put a smile on my face (not THAT way, geez get your mind out of the gutter) we continued on to Musee de l’Orangerie. While we had visited on Monday, we only looked through the water lily galleries and I wanted to visit the Walter-Guillaume collection downstairs. There was also a special exhibit called Debussy, Music and the Arts.

The WG collection showing at the time including just one small Monet, several Renoir, some very nice Cezannes. There were also a number of Modigiliani and Delacroix. There were a small number of paintings by two artists I wasn’t familiar with, Marie Laurencin and Soutine.

I’m not sure how much I really liked the Laurencin’s on display. Very sort of dreamy, lots of pastels. But interesting. Will have to keep an eye out for more when visiting other museums to see how I feel eventually. I was a bit more drawn to the exhibit of Chaim Soutine (the slaughtered beef perhaps not as much!) which was much more textured and vibrant.

Adrienne had just visited this gallery last year so she instead spent her time at the Debussy, Music and Arts exhibit. As she enjoyed it very much, we stopped at the bookstore where she bought a book about it.

Annhig mentioned above her time limit on museums. I also think you can reach a point where you aren’t absorbing anymore, and we had reached ours.

As we had done on our way to the Louvre, we essentially wandered back to the apartment. Every time we were on a main street, we found a side street we could walk down instead. Sure, this took longer but it is so much fun to do. Naturally we made a stop at Rue de Buci for bread (I ate so much bread in Paris!), some flowers, wine and Champagne (I also drank a lot!).

As we walked back up Rue St. Andre des Arts, Adrienne noticed on a side street a restaurant she and her husband had gone to and enjoyed last year. We now had a plan for dinner!

After a rest back at the apartment, we dressed and made our way back to Allard at 1, rue de l’Eperon where even without reservations we were able to be seated for dinner. We were very lucky as shortly after the place completely filled up! The dinner was delicious, will have food post at end of report.

A very nice evening, then back to the apartment where we sipped some champagne and watched from our windows a street performer twirling fire out at Place St. Michel.

We needed to get to bed a bit earlier tonight as tomorrow was our Market Class with Cook’N With Class. So we did.

Toucan, thanks for the continued trip report, enjoying it very much. Alas, no one has tried to pick me up in Paris but there's always next time.

I did receive an offer to have a pint with an Irishman in London so I'm not batting 0 !

I love your trip report! Now I am looking forward to getting some "notes" too! I will do a trip report and let you know. Thanks for the tips - reading with great interest!

I will tell Madame Soutine what you thought of her father's paintings, Toucan2. I see her every day at the nursing home and she loves to know people's reactions to his work.

Sounds heavenly. I can't wait to visit l"Orangerie.

I need to get this report finished up. We are having some long (but very fun) days right now, but I may be able to do some tomorrow. I am glad you are still reading!

kerouac, yes! Please do. It's the next best thing to relaying directly to the artist how their work has given you pleasure.

Oh kerouac, that gave me chills. May Madame Soutine's father's spirit be around.

More, please Toucan2!

Oh kerouac, that gave me chills. May Madame Soutine's father's spirit be around.

More, please Toucan2!

Friday March 16

CooknWithClass and going to the Circus!

CooknWithClass

I wrote a (very) detailed report on the CooknWithClass experience, and if you want to read it, you may find it here:

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/my-cookn-with-class-in-paris-experience-march-16-a-market-class.cfm

If you don’t want to read the detailed report, here is the shorter version.

I had never taken a cooking class before, but having read others’ experiences and given the food culture of France, Paris seemed like a fine place to attend my first cooking class. I wanted an experience where you went to market, prepared and ate the meal together. CooknWithClass has two such market classes, and I had reserved space in the morning market class for myself and my friend.

So, in short, this was just so much fun and I learned so much, plus we had a fabulous meal. It was one of the very favorite things I did in Paris, and I would do it again in a minute.

The details are:

1. You must make reservations, classes are small and can fill up quickly (5-6 per class)
2. It is a 5-6 hour experience. We met them at 9:20 and did not leave until 3:00 pm, and could have probably hung around longer.
3. The cost was 185 Euros per person. The meal itself would easily cost 60-80 Euros (it includes wine, coffee, and aperitif) in a restaurant, so personally given the time, what you learn, and the meal, I don’t think it ends up being that expensive.
4. You may have people come and join just for the meal if they do not want to take the class, and I believe it is 65 Euros for that.
5. The web site is www.cooknwithclass.com
6. The school is located in the Montmartre neighborhood.

The meal we prepared and enjoyed was:

Magret du Canard with Apple Chutney and a frisee salad
Roasted Monkfish with potatoes cooked in white wine and a zucchini flan
Cheese Course
Molten Lava Cake with Strawberries

The Circus

Really, it is Cirque Eloize, the show we saw called iD

Adrienne says I need to stop calling it The Circus as she keeps picturing clowns and elephants. But, circus is what this was billed as, so Circus it is!

My friend Laure had asked me before the trip if I would like to go with her as her partner Olivier was not interested in going and she was interested in this performance. Of course I said Yes!

We left the cooking class and walked through the neighborhood, getting lost as usual. We saw a metro stop, perused the map, and headed down to take the metro back to Place St. Michel. We made cups of tea and relaxed a bit before heading back out to our respective evening plans. I loved having the apartment for these short breaks.

I met Laure near the metro stop Bonnes Nouvelle after she got off work. The performance was at the Grand Rex so we walked down to make sure we knew where it was, then located a café where we could sit and have a drink and chat before the circus.

The drinks were fairly strong, so now I needed a little food in my stomach. Given I had just finished eating at 3, I had a small bowl of soup and a salad that we shared. Even the simple food was beautifully presented.

We walked across and found our seats at the mezzanine level, giving us a perfect sightline to the stage.

Cirque Eloize is out of Montreal, Canada and is modern circus. Think Cirque du’Soleil without quite the extravagant production levels and spectacle. The performance was called iD, and was a sort of series of tableaus ranging from almost balletic performances to hip hop and acrobatics. It was a really great show with both poignant and funny episodes.

There was the dance type performance, acrobatic type performance, people on rollerblades, people on skateboards, juggling, and one particularly amazing sequence from a trampoline.

I have to spend some time on that sequence. The backdrop and lighting in that scene created a city type scene. You do not know the trampoline is below, it has not appeared previously.

Performers climbed the wall, slipping in and out of openings that opened and closed. All of a sudden, one of the performers starts to make a free-fall from the building and at the same time the lighting makes it appear as if blocks are falling forward. And then he hits the trampoline. It is so hard to describe what an incredible scene this was.

The other performers then join in for the rest of the trampoline sequence, which as I said was just amazing.

I’m worried that I am not describing this in full, so I am going to quote Timeout Paris as I think they described it so well., giving full reference and the link (which I think is okay as long as I do those things)

Time Out says
When it comes to contemporary circus, there’s just no beating the nation that created Cirque du Soleil: After ‘Psy’ by Montreal company 7 Doigts de la Main in 2011, it’s circus Eloize’s turn to wow Paris with their new show, 'iD' (also created in Montreal), which examines the idea of identity and individuality in a society that encourages homogenization. How do individuals deal with public space? And how do we express ourselves? Played at the Théâtre National de Chaillot, and directed by Jeannot Painchaud, ‘iD’ uses a mix of circus acrobatics, loud electro rock and hip-hop to answers those questions. The result is a magnificent, resolutely urban creation that sees jugglers break-dancing, tightrope walkers balancing to the soundtrack of police sirens and bike riders defying the laws of gravity All in all, ‘iD’ promises a wholly novel circus experience for kids and adults alike.
By AB

Link: http://www.timeout.fr/paris/en/theatre/cirque-eloize-id-circuses

All in all, a wonderful new experience for me in Paris.

We left the theatre and walked a bit. The streets were full of people and lively, with tons of energy. We walked past Porte St. Denis, which was beautifully lit at night. Cities have such a wonderfully different look at night, with buildings and monuments lit.

The metro cars were very full, and we rode to St. Michel where I got off to head to my apartment, and Laure transferred to go home. It was a wonderful evening spent with my friend before saying good-bye.

Saturday, March 17 – I went shopping

Shops where I did not note the names, Records/CDs, Monoprix, Souvenirs, Maison du Chocolat, and of course Paul’s

Originally we were to go to Vaux le Vicomte on this day. With one thing and another, we had decided to cancel the trip. So the day was fairly free form.

Photo opp at Notre Dame

The first thing I needed to was take a picture of myself in Paris wearing a t-shirt from my gym. Okay, I know it sounds silly, but the day before I left home the gym owner came up to me and asked me if I would, and gave me the t-shirt to wear. So immediately after I rolled out of bed on Saturday morning I threw on the t-shirt, grabbed my camera, and headed for Notre Dame.

As I crossed the Seine I glanced down at others who had descended the stairs to walk right along the river and decided to follow. It’s just a short walk, but I think I took some of my favorite pics from that vantage points. I watched a bird flying in and out of a hole in the wall lining the river. Hmm, that does not sound that interesting, but it was!

I thought I could find a place to set the camera and use the timer to take the picture, but couldn’t find a good vantage point. There was no choice, I had to ask someone to take it for me. I eyed a likely young woman and asked Parlez vous Anglais? Of course she did! She was from San Antonio, TX She generously took the picture of me posing in front of Notre Dame, and I headed back to round up Adrienne.

Some leisurely shopping

We headed down to Starbucks to load up on caffeine and watch people. Young mothers with beautiful children in strollers, wild-haired young woman with the cutest tiny dog, young man carrying a skateboard. We are in no hurry, and enjoy the parade.

Walking back, we started stopping at stores with promising window displays. Both of us made purchases at a fun little kitchen shop. I got a big Eiffel Tower cookie cutter, and some nice woven kitchen towels. Next we stopped at a glass shop, but ended up not making purchases.

Record Stores – or I think I am in University again

Next up, A went to see her cousin again, and I headed up Boulevard Saint Michel to the Record and CD shops I mentioned earlier. My husband is a big music guy, and in fact we met when he hired me to work in a record store.

I had told him about the stores, and of course that we were essentially in the university district, and he sent me a list of things to look for. Often there are things you can find in Europe that you might not be able to find in the US, although these days you can get almost anything on eBay!

List in hand, I headed for the first store I could find, and it was a used CD store. As far as I could ever tell the CDs were organized by music style, but not alphabetized. So within the categories that I thought the CDs would be, I had to look at every single CD. If you wanted Lenny Kravitz or Jamiroquai you were in luck (there was also a lot of Michael Jackson). Otherwise, I batted zero for the list since neither were on it.

I didn’t want to come back empty-handed since he never asks for anything when I go on these trips, so I did buy a small selection of CDs, hoping that he didn’t have them yet.

Next up, Gibert. Gibert has books, music, even some gifts it looked like. It was organized how I expected a record store to be, but I struck out again There was one Aha CD that matched his notes closely, but not exactly. I didn’t buy it, and I should have! Out of the six that I did buy at the previous store he already had four of them (at least I know what artists he likes).

Was this a typical way to spend a day in Paris? Probably not normally, but it was still fun to be there in the search.

Monoprix

Along the same street I noticed a Monoprix. I do know plenty of other people who like to go to grocery stores in other countries, so I don’t feel completely alone in my odd little tourist foray. I was on the hunt for the best hot chocolate mix ever, which my friend Laure had not been able to find.

Okay, side story here. Laure had brought me some a few years ago, but I was out. In June when we saw each other in NYC she had tried to find it to bring to me but could not. After googling, I found one site, FrenchClick, that carried it—but they are based out of the UK and wanted to charge me $30 to ship it to the US. I wanted it, but not that much.

So, I emailed a friend in the UK, who ordered a tin. He travelled to the US for business a month later and shipped it to me in the US. I have some great friends

So, back to Monoprix. No, I didn’t find the mix. But, I did see small containers of the same brand of fleur de sel that we had used at CooknWithClass the day before, so I bought a couple. Then there was this nice jar of nutmeg complete with a small grater in the jar. So I bought that too. I think that is all I got, but I did also enjoy just looking around at the different things.

Buying Souvenirs

Now, I needed to finish up some souvenir shopping. We have some family friends where I usually buy t-shirts for the boys, and the mom had asked me to buy her some Eiffel tower earrings. I also always buy a shirt for my husband. I knew that Rue la Harpe had tons of those kinds of shops so I headed over.

A nice shop agent helped me as I pointed out all the shirts I wanted, and picked out the earrings. I bought so much stuff that they threw in the earrings (and something else, I can’t even remember what!) for free. Okay, another thing checked off the list!

Don’t eat Thai on Rue La Harpe

I should have known better. But, I was hungry, and I love Thai, so I stopped. It was—okay. But very disappointing and a waste of a dining opportunity. On the other hand, I got a nice little rest, sat outside and wrote out some postcards as I dined.

The Cluny metro stop and Maison du Chocolat

I asked a friend what she wanted me to bring her back from Paris and she said Chocolate! I dropped off my purchases at the apartment, checked my metro map, and headed back up to the Cluny metro stop.

Don’t you love when you stumble upon something completely unexpected? The ceiling of the metro station has a beautiful mosaic and all around are signatures of notables from the Latin Quarter done in mosaic. I googled and the mosaic is called Les Oiseaux (The Birds. It was a delightful surprise. Here’s a site that tells you a little about it and there is a photo gallery: http://www.gourmantic.com/2011/06/21/cluny-la-sorbonne-paris-metro-station-with-artful-mosaics/

I got off at the Sevres stop and made my way to Maison du Chocolat. It was a small shop at 19 rue Sevres, the staff beautifully dressed and very friendly. There were tourists, but I also watched as two older Parisian ladies came in and made their small chocolate purchases. Both were impeccably dressed, one wearing a tightly fitted leopard skin cap.

I talked chocolates with a shop agent, and we settled on my purchases. Again she wrote me a ticket, then took my chocolates to the front desk and I took my place in line to pay. I paid and was given my purchases, beautifully wrapped and in a pretty bag.

Another walk through neighborhoods

They had Chocolat Chaud for sale, and I really should have purchased some. After a beautiful week, Saturday was gray and cool, and as I walked out it started drizzling a bit. I was done with all my errands and in no hurry, so I made my way past small pocket parks blooming with daffodils, and shop windows with great displays of shoes, and clothing and more. I eyed Leon’s and remembered that I was to have tried the mussels there. Too bad I had eaten that Thai food and wasn’t hungry!

The streets have the wet look of the Caillebotte painting, Paris on a Rainy Day. I knew that if I headed towards the Seine I would eventually see something I recognized, and there it was, Rue de Buci! I crossed over, stopped in at Paul’s for another flute, and headed to the apt.

It’s March 17 and I am amused to see young people with bright green wigs. Ah, there’s an Irish Pub! St. Paddy’s Day celebrations are about to commence.

There’s nothing much else exciting to tell about the evening. We did some laundry, packed, arranged for a car service, watched the evening’s goings on in Place St. Michel from our balcony and did our best to consume the remaining bread, butter, cheese and wine left in the apartment.

Saturday, March 18, Saying Good-Bye to Paris

Laure had kindly arranged pickups for us with G7, the service used by our company. I was not interested in traipsing up and down stairs with my bags, now heavier with purchases, and arriving sweaty at the airport before my trip even began. The car service was outside my door at 8:25, and off I went.

Adrienne’s came at 10:30, and also went without a hitch. I want to say it was around 70 dollars US.

Adrienne did the checkout with the apartment, and all went smoothly.

Driving to the airport, I noticed sweeps of flowers at the roadside. Spring was truly arriving in Paris as we said good-bye.

Next: The Details (just in case you want it all in one spot)

Transportation
The Apartment
Meals
Sights and Events

I always seem to save the shopping for the last day. Maybe it's because I don't really like shopping? Anyway, you did well! I'm sure there were many happy gift recipients when you got home.

Again, great report - thanks for sharing.

Excellent report, Toucan2, but I particularly note that you were delighted to discover the ceiling of the Cluny metro station. There are really a lot of lovely unexpected things to see in the metro, and I sometimes feel sorry for the people who only take the bus so that they can "see Paris" while they are going places. There are a number of amazing things underground in the metro, and I made a report about them: http://tinyurl.com/bonj7xz

Thanks very much Kerouac I will ck out the link when I am back at computer

kerouac, I love the Metro. I call myself a Metro rat. Thanks for the great report.

Toucan2
Thank you for a wonderful trip report. brings back memories of our trips to Paris, and has me thinking of going back next year (unfortunately this year's vacation time is all scheduled already!).

Just found this and started reading...bookmarking to read tonight!

Toucan, loving your report!! We leave Tuesday for a few days in Amsterdam (hopefully to see the tulips) then 2 weeks in Paris, followed by a week in London for the Chelsea Flower Show!! Have many restaurant reservations, Michael or Scott for 5 days in Paris and hope to stop at many of your highlights!
Thanks for taking the time to do this.

Next: The Details (just in case you want it all in one spot)

Transportation - Airport

1. From the airport, Charles de Gaulle


There are so many options, one of them will suit your needs. These are the three we used:

1. RER B – I took the RER B in from Terminal 2 upon arrival. It was easy and cheap, about 8 or 9 Euros. My apartment was near the St. Michel stop (across the street, actually) so I did not have far to walk upon arrival.

In the airport though, it was a pretty long walk to the RER station. Or, maybe it just seemed long because I didn’t know where I was going and the signage isn’t great. So be aware that if you have paid attention to the signs, and just keep going, you will eventually get there.

I got cash from the ATM in the airport, but, the ticket kiosk did take credit cards and so that is what I used. I did have to descend down some stairs to the train, carrying my bag. More importantly though, at the St. Michel I had to climb a lot of stairs carrying the same bag. I am glad I only had one roller and one over the shoulder bag.

2. Taxi – Adrienne’s arranged car service did not arrive, so she simply walked out to the taxi stand and took a taxi from the airport to Place St. Michel (on 5th and 6th border) 50 Euros.

3. Car Service/Taxi – G7 – Nice sedan picked us up at the apartment. I cheated and made arrangements via my friend Laure since I don’t speak French well and the reservation process was all automatic voice generated. It was around 70 US dollars (sorry I don’t have the receipt with me). It is the service our company uses, so we knew it was very reliable. Website : www.taxisg7.fr telephone number : 01 47 39 47 39 et en anglais : 01 41 27 66 99 (it looks like there is an English line as well)

Transportation – Getting Around Paris

Remember, I am only telling you what we did. Frankly, mostly we walked. We took taxis a few times for short jaunts. I don’t remember all the fares of course, but I didn’t think they were unreasonable at the time or I would remember that.

It’s hard to beat the metro in my mind for efficiency. Buy the carnet, I think for most people that is the best bet. I had toyed with the idea of getting the Navigo, but as it turned out it really would have been overkill. (or you can get lucky like I did and keep having people give you their leftovers as they left Paris! Thanks Fiona and Ann. I think I bought 3 tickets.

Have you had your Paris Metro lesson yet? (old hands at the metro, go ahead and skip on, but frankly I got this kind of lesson when I first went to Paris and it was really helpful, so, I am posting this portion for newbies)

Your Metro Lesson

Locate where you want to go and identify the line you want to be on (yellow blue etc). Follow the line on your map to the end of the line in the direction you want to go. When you are in the metro station, you will see signs with the final destination of the line—head that way! On the trains it is really easy to follow along what the next stops are (unlike in NY where I can’t understand a thing) by the map and the PA system).

Okay, grab your Streetwise map or open your Fodors guide to the Metro map. Let’s say you are getting on to the metro at stop St. Michel and you want to go to Jules Joffrin metro stop (because you are going to CooknWithClass for example!).

The red line, 4 crosses the line for Jules Jofrin at Marcadet-Poissonniers. The end point for the red line in that direction is Porte de Clignancourt, so, I enter the station at St. Michel and follow the signs for Porte de Clignancourt. I get off at Marcadet-Poissonniers. The end point for the line in the direction of Jules Joffrin is Mairie d’Issy, so at the station I follow the signs for Mairie d’Issy and board the train for one stop to Jules Joffrin.

See? Easy peasy.

The Apartment

I located the apartment via Homeaway. As I posted above, the link is http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p473310

The rental agency is Glama Paris, 14 rue du Pont Neuf, 75001 Paris. 00.33.1.49.26.90.50, info@glamaparis.com. www.glamaparis.com.

I’m sure they could also be contacted directly. Everyone I dealt with was incredibly friendly and helpful, and willing to answer endless questions. The contract was executed easily, they were willing to arrange airport transportation, buy groceries, etc. It looks like it is now 2300 Euros per week. I was splitting with a friend so was okay with the rent.

I described the layout above as far as the rooms and getting no noise. Here are a few other things. I very much liked that the toilet was separate from the bathroom. One could use the facilities while another was using the bathroom.

The bathroom was also nice for sharing with a friend as it had two sink set ups. The tub was a good size, with the typical type of shower you find with the flexible hose attached to a bar. You do have a high step up into the tub (for anyone who may have mobility issues that is nice to know.)

We didn’t really cook there beyond making tea and coffee, but did take advantage of having the refrigerator and stove top. We never used the dishwasher so cannot comment on that. Could not figure out the microwave. Tap water is good in Paris, I simply kept refilling water bottles and chilling them in the fridge rather than constantly buying bottles of water when out.

There is a TV that we turned on exactly once, so cannot comment on that. There’s wifi. Um, what else am I missing?! Apartment was great, management firm was great. Ask me any questions if I have missed anything you want to know.

@Yankygal, don't you owe us a pick up story? Or did I miss yours above?

kerouac, I wanted to say also that I especially appreciate your note as I have read and learned and enjoyed so many of your Paris posts.

I am so glad that others are still reading, and still finding the report helpful and/or interesting.

Judy, it sounds like you have a wonderful trip ahead of you! I think annhig was also going to Amsterdam to see the tulips. Plus you get to the Chelsea Flower show? Lucky you.

5 whole days with Michael or Scott?! How much fun are you going to have?!

Toucan2 - wonderful report! I will use your metro lesson next week. Have to laugh at your NY subway comment - to me it's simple because I've used it my whole life. You are very right about the PA system. They make static announcements with a mouth full of marbles!

Centralparkgirl. I feel like I should be able to master the NY subway, I've used public transport in plenty of other places, but I need a NY subway lesson. I can make my way on the LIRR, and I can get out to the US Open (but that is just too easy). But at other times I get baffled, then get out, go to street level, and take a taxi!

Until you get a subway lesson, check out two apps: City Transit and iTrans NYC. I personally feel the maps posted in each car of every train as well as the free paper maps are excellent. Since they've eliminated many of the manned subway booths, it's not as easy to obtain the paper maps, but the big stations (Grand Central, etc.) always have them. After reading your report, I'm certain that you can master it!

Toucan2, this is a great report. We were there about the same time so it's even more fun to read.

Thanks for those CPG, I will check them out.

Gomiki, wish we had met, as it turned out might have been able to meet Saturday night but originally I thought we would be at Vaux le Vicomte. Another time I hope!

Hoping to wrap this up tomorrow.

Again, sorry we did not meet up. Loving this report.
Paris is always on my mind, (when not on Provence

Lovely report and great info. Thankks Toucan2.

kerouac, I just went through your "Metro Safari."

Wow!

It is absolutely fantastic and must have taken you an immense amount of time to compile. Both the photos and the narrative are so informative. Thank you.

Toucan - I appreciate your report very much. You're a wonderful writer
12 weeks from today I will arrive in Paris for the first time in 20 years (this time with my daughter!), and am more excited than ever.

kerouac - your métro photo report is fascinating. I usually feel so rushed and stressed out in subway stations - I hope I'll be able to take in all the beauty. Thank you for all that you share.

Thank you so much lantana! I hope you have a wonderful time visiting Paris with your daughter, and will look forward to your trip report.

Next: The Details (just in case you want it all in one spot)

Meals

One thing I wish I had been better about before going was planning at least the evening meals. I was focused elsewhere, and we missed out a bit. The highlights were Neva Cuisine, Allard, and our meal with CooknWithClass. It’s not that we really had bad meals; it’s just that we could have planned better.

I also tend to stay in once I get home in the evening, but if I make plans I’ll go back out again. No plans? It’s bread, cheese, and wine—which I also enjoy!

There are probably better posts on better restaurants than I can provide (Patty’s for instance) but for information purposes, I’ll provide the below.

Places we ate:

Neva Cuisine – in the 8th, near Gare Saint-Lazare. Excellent.
L’Ecluse Madeleine – in the 8th, on Place de la Madeleine. Good.
Allard – in the 6th. Excellent
Tradition Bistro – in the 5th on Rue la Harpe. Fine.
Restaurant Fou Thai – in the 5th on Rue la Harpe. Okay. Would not return.
Café le Rostand – in the 6th across from Jardin Luxemborg. Fine. Would return.
Café Renard – outdoor café in Jardin des Tuileries. Fine. Would return.
Café Jacquemart-Andre – in the 8th at the Musee Jacquemart-Andre. Excellent.


Neva Cuisine, 2 Rue de Berne, 75008 Paris, 01 45 22 18 91

I enjoyed my meal very much. My starter was a bed of chopped avocado with coriander topped with three shrimp. Wonderful flavor. My main was entrecote with fried onions. I understand others had it as well with a tough vein through it. I was lucky and mine was meltingly tender and delicious.

The dessert though! I had spotted one being served to another diner and knew that was the one for me. It was a lemon/strawberry confection. A quenelle of a lemony sherbet frozen concoction topped a crisp tube (a lovely orange with red polka dots) that was filled with a citrusy cream. Strawberries and coulis around the bottom.

Halfway through my dessert Abby leans over and says, did you get to the pop rocks yet? Pop Rocks?! One more bite and there they were. A fun addition of whimsy to the dessert.

My share, meal plus wine, I think was 60 Euros.

L’Ecluse Madeleine http://www.lecluse-restaurant-paris.com/restaurant-l-ecluse-madeleine.html, 15, place de la Madeleine (Paris 8th district), Reservations: +33.1.42.65.34.69. Open 7 days a week: continuous service from 8:30 a.m. through to 1:00 in the morning

Patty gave a nice description above of the L’Ecluse wine bars. Our group was seated in the winter garden, which was nice.

I shared a terrine with Laure, and perhaps made not the best choice for my main as I had foie gras and prosciutto over pasta. The terrine was good. The main okay. I wish I could remember what others had so I could tell you, but I no longer remember.

Fiona’s starter in particular was good, but all I can remember is that it was piggy. I saw some plates going by that looked tasty, I should have waited to order until I saw those dishes

Allard, 1, rue de l’Eperon – 75006, 01 43 26 48 23
Both Adrienne and I ordered from the set menu.

I had the Chef’s Terrine (notice a trend here?). It was quite good, but a rather huge slice. Then I had duck confit with roasted potatoes (in the duck fat I’m sure). Very, very good.

I perhaps should have done a better job of balancing my choices in richness though, having a salad first. Knowing I had dessert coming, I was not able to finish the duck and potatoes. Dessert was a Chocolate Charlotte Rousse. A deep dark chocolate mousse encased in ladyfingers.

Adrienne had a mache salad, a wonderful steak au poivre also accompanied by roasted potatoes, and profiteroles. She said it was all excellent. She had also dined at Allard last year, and remembered everything as being excellent then too.

On Rue la Harpe, Tradition Bistro and Restaurant Fou Thai for lunches. Tradition was fine, I had a mushroom and cheese galette. Not outstanding, but fine. Fou Thai, the spring rolls were fine, but the curry was, well, it was hard to detect the curry. So not horrible, but not what I would expect. Wouldn’t go out of my way.

On Rue de Medici, just off Boulevard St. Michel walking from the Pantheon, stopped at Café le Rostand for lunch. A decent croque monsieur for me, salad for A, good people-watching. If you are walking by and it is time for a light lunch, worth a stop.
6 Place Edmond Rostand, 75006 Paris, France

In Jardin des Tuileries, Café Renard. Cannot beat the atmosphere at this outdoor cafe, a perfect place to stop on a beautiful day between l’Orangerie and the Louvre.

I sat facing the Louvre, on a warm spring day, enjoying the weather and the view. My lunch was pretty good, a small serving of boeuf bourguignon with a coca-cola. Home of the famed Laurent. Adrienne had chicken and rice, which she said was also good for a light lunch.

Café Jacquemart-Andre, 158 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris, France

At the Musee Jacquemart-Andre, I would dine at this cafe as often as I could, working my way through each of the delightfully described salads. Both Laure and I had the Mantegna.

Direct from the menu, the description is: MANTEGNA 15,60 €, Salad of young leaves of spinach, minced roasted chicken breast, snap peas, ginger, soya, sesame seeds, coriander and mint, accompanied by mangos and grapefruits, served on a tomato brik, with honey vinaigrette.

Check out their menu. Each salad, named after an artist, I would want to try.

I had a lemon meringue pie for dessert. It is possibly the best lemon meringue pie I have ever had. The lemon was as tart as it should be, and the meringue was maybe a ¾ inch thick layer (rather than a mountain as so often is found, and which I do not like) with a touch of sweetness and the top was carmelized.

Laure had a raspberry tart that also looked good but I was too involved in my pie to be distracted by her tart.

Again, brava!

Next: The Details (just in case you want it all in one spot)

Sights and Events

I have put the details of my visits above, so will not repeat that here. However, just so it is handy, I’ll put the web sites etc here all in one place. Not that you couldn’t find them yourself, just trying to be helpful.

Museums:

Musee Jacquemart-Andre www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com
Musee l’Orangerie www.musee-orangerie.fr
Musee National du Moyen Age (Cluny) www.musee-moyenage.fr
Pompidou (Beauborg) www.centrepompidou.fr

Churches

Eglise St. Merri, Next to Pompidou, Here is a Wikipedia entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Merri
Sainte Chapelle, http://sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/ (you can also access the Pantheon info here.
Notre Dame de Paris www.notredamedeparis.fr

Stores and Markets

Mariage Freres www.mariagefreres.com
E. Dehillerin www.e-dehillerin.fr
Fauchon www.fauchon.com
Hediard www.hediard.com
Marche aux Fleurs I couldn’t find an official web site, but here is a Facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/March%C3%A9-aux-fleurs-Paris-ile-de-la-Cit%C3%A9/192332910778341
Paul www.paul.fr

Events

Cirque Eloize http://www.cirque-eloize.com/

They are gone now from their tour of France, but shows begin in Mexico on May 24, through June.

CooknWithClass www.cooknwithclass.com

Michael Osman email parisfind@aol.com

Wrapping things up

I have enjoyed reliving the trip with you, and the conversation we have had! Thank you.

If you would like to see some pictures, you may see them here on Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.413174692030550.112022.100000140670243&type=3&l=75df892604

Right now I have it open, eventually I will probably close it to friends only.

Thank you Tdudette!

Thanks for the FB tip to come here.
Great read and great info.

Now we know the name of the infamous cafe Really enjoyed your report!

Wonderful! Really enjoyed your photos. What a lovely group of ladies (and children!)
Thank you for your kind wishes for my trip

Toucan2, do you remember the prices of the restaurants you ate at, in particular Allard and L'Ecluse madeleine, but the others as well, if you remember? We will be in Paris late July/early Aug & I am compiling a list of restaurants, markets, etc.
Thanks.

Hi toucan2, I just noticed that you answered my question about L'Ecluse madeleine in an earlier post.
Thanks again.

Toucan2, I really enjoyed your report. We were in Paris in 2003 and enjoyed a day with Michael. It truley was a priceless tour of the city. He took us on his "Louvre Express" tour. Excellect experience for the first time.

Thanks so much for posting so much information - it will be a great help on my trip! Tons of valuable links - I appreciate it! Now to take another look at the fb page for my Paris fill of the day!

Nice report and lots of info for my September trip. Thanks for all the details!

Thanks all! I'm pleased if you enjoyed it and as a bonus, found it helpful.

Patty, Say no to Fou Thai.

matniskstym I wish I could join you all in September!

Kwoo, I am away from home not returning until May 3. I wasn't good about putting the prices in my notes but I can look them up on my receipts when I get back and update my post.

Neva and Allard were higher than the others, L'Ecluse you have info from Patty. None of the others were particularly expensive that I can recall, may 15-20 Euros? In any case, I will update this after my return home for you.

Oh, my - your photos are superb! so many shots of food and Pere LaChaise. Wonderful thanks for all of it!!

We had those Coeur de Boeuf tomatoes in the Dordogne in September, and they are the sweetest I've ever tasted!

Thank you taconictraveler, that is so nice of you to say. I'm glad you enjoyed!

Those tomatoes look so gorgeous, glad to hear they are delicious as well

Loved your trip report. I too am going to Paris in September, however, I am missing the Fodor's GTG by about one week...so disappointed.

This will be my 6th trip but it's always an adventure going to Paris.

I also have pickup stories. One of them was just sitting, minding my own business on a park bench. I was approached by three men within one hour. Good for the ego but know I am not the only one they have approached. Gives me a good laugh.
Thanks again for a great trip report.

Amazing trip report. I especially like how you broke up the details at the end! Thank you for sharing!

Thanks Toucan. Hope you are having fun, wherever you are!

kwoo---always!

Now in Orlando for a conf, get to go to Universal Studios tomorrow night. I've never been. I do promise to get that other info for you when I finally arrive home.

Glad you enjoyed madison and stellar.

I have really enjoyed reading this report. I would appreciate it if you could give me the contact information for Michael Osman. My husband and I have planned a trip to Paris.

DreamofItalia, email Michael at parisfind@aol.com.

Tell him St. Merri sent you

Toucan2. I certainly will. Thanks.

Great news. We booked with Michael Osman. I also told him you sent us. He remembered you and the wonderful day spent together. I will post our experience when we return. Thank you again for the recommendation.

That's great! He's so much fun, I look forward to hearing about your day with him and your whole trip report.

bookmkaring to savour later!

Hello Toucan2. I am planning my family's first trip to Paris and you seem to be theonly one on fodor's who have worked with glamaparis. Do you recommend them?

monstermutt, they were really good to work with. They were very helpful with the emails, and of course when we arrived. I have no complaints and would work with them again if we returned to Paris. Good luck! When are you going?

I think I probably have the emails somewhere of the people I worked with if you want me to dig them up.