Paris Trip Highlights Oct. 11-17, 2006
Oct 19th, 2006, 10:47 AM
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Paris Trip Highlights Oct. 11-17, 2006
My wife and I have just returned from glorious Paris. Rather than a lot of details I thought I might share some highlights with you.
We normally travel to St. Remy de Provence and Paris (or elsewhere in western Europe). We missed St. Remy this year, after thirteen straight years, because our favorite hotel, L'Amandiere, has been sold. We do plan to return to Provence in 2007.
Paris is marvellous. The City sparkles. We did old and new things as follows:
-Visited L'Orangerie and Monet's water lillies, that are resplendent. Museum had been closed for six years and is a welcome return to the Parisian milieu. Public admitted at 12:30. Lines not bad during week. Get there 20 minutes early.
-Dined at "Le Petit Pamphlet" - This is the restaurant that temporarily replaces Le Pamphlet that was damaged due to severe flooding some moths ago. It may not reopen till February 2007 or later. Le Petit is a worthy stand-in. Menu somewhat restricted as to number of offerings is still grand and at a reasonable price. Wine list very good. Owner and staff are most amiable and chef is a wizard. It is in the Marais, 15 Rue St. Gilles, just off Rue Turrenne. Make reservations.
-Lunched at "Mariage Freres", the Salon de The par excellence. It is still magic. It is also a good brief respite for your liver as no alcohol is served here. Try it for lunch--have Norwegian salmon or the heavenly foie gras. Pastries are super, continually flowing out of the kitchen. Prix fixe lunch 33 euros.
-We stayed at the Caron de Beaumarchais Hotel in the Marais. A great location, reasonable tariff, very friendly service.
-We travelled out to Chantilly and its wonderous Chateau. It abuts the world famous race track. Beautiful grounds resemble Versailles. There is an interesting museum on the grounds.
Take train at the Gare du Nord, half hour ride. One caution: transport to and from the chateau from the train station is quirky. Cabs are available going to chateau. Make arrangements for one going home when you arrive. There reportedly is a bus, we never saw it. When going home I inquired and was told that "The last one left at 3:39 p.m." It is a two mile walk for those so inclined over a leafy forest trail.
Leave two hours for a visit; add an hour for lunch at the chateau's nice little restaurant "Le Captainiere"- have some
Among other things we did in Paris:
-Visited Saint Chapelle for a Vivaldi concert.
-Visited Musees D'Orsay and Le Marmmaton.
I retired in July. This was our first European vacation since then. My wife and I walked, sang, laughed throughout.
Paris is like no place in the world. We are very lucky senior citizens who have again been revivified by the incomparable City of Lights.
We normally travel to St. Remy de Provence and Paris (or elsewhere in western Europe). We missed St. Remy this year, after thirteen straight years, because our favorite hotel, L'Amandiere, has been sold. We do plan to return to Provence in 2007.
Paris is marvellous. The City sparkles. We did old and new things as follows:
-Visited L'Orangerie and Monet's water lillies, that are resplendent. Museum had been closed for six years and is a welcome return to the Parisian milieu. Public admitted at 12:30. Lines not bad during week. Get there 20 minutes early.
-Dined at "Le Petit Pamphlet" - This is the restaurant that temporarily replaces Le Pamphlet that was damaged due to severe flooding some moths ago. It may not reopen till February 2007 or later. Le Petit is a worthy stand-in. Menu somewhat restricted as to number of offerings is still grand and at a reasonable price. Wine list very good. Owner and staff are most amiable and chef is a wizard. It is in the Marais, 15 Rue St. Gilles, just off Rue Turrenne. Make reservations.
-Lunched at "Mariage Freres", the Salon de The par excellence. It is still magic. It is also a good brief respite for your liver as no alcohol is served here. Try it for lunch--have Norwegian salmon or the heavenly foie gras. Pastries are super, continually flowing out of the kitchen. Prix fixe lunch 33 euros.
-We stayed at the Caron de Beaumarchais Hotel in the Marais. A great location, reasonable tariff, very friendly service.
-We travelled out to Chantilly and its wonderous Chateau. It abuts the world famous race track. Beautiful grounds resemble Versailles. There is an interesting museum on the grounds.
Take train at the Gare du Nord, half hour ride. One caution: transport to and from the chateau from the train station is quirky. Cabs are available going to chateau. Make arrangements for one going home when you arrive. There reportedly is a bus, we never saw it. When going home I inquired and was told that "The last one left at 3:39 p.m." It is a two mile walk for those so inclined over a leafy forest trail.
Leave two hours for a visit; add an hour for lunch at the chateau's nice little restaurant "Le Captainiere"- have some
Among other things we did in Paris:
-Visited Saint Chapelle for a Vivaldi concert.
-Visited Musees D'Orsay and Le Marmmaton.
I retired in July. This was our first European vacation since then. My wife and I walked, sang, laughed throughout.
Paris is like no place in the world. We are very lucky senior citizens who have again been revivified by the incomparable City of Lights.
Oct 19th, 2006, 11:21 AM
#2
Glad you had a good time. I hope that you also know that a Paris or French vacation does not have to be exclusively high end to be enjoyable.
I went to Chantilly for the first time in my life last week with my brother and sister in law, visiting from California. She works in a horse clinic, so I took them to the Living Horse Museum -- she was dazzled.
I went to Chantilly for the first time in my life last week with my brother and sister in law, visiting from California. She works in a horse clinic, so I took them to the Living Horse Museum -- she was dazzled.
Oct 19th, 2006, 11:52 AM
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Kerouac,
I completely agree. We can travel to Europe each year by avoiding La Tour D'Argent; Jules Verne - nice as they are. Our hotel was 160 euros a night; Le Petit Pamphlet about 110 euros for two with wine; no museum was more than 10 euros. We bought three day Metro pass, etc. Concert at Sainte Chapellewas 25 euros each.
I completely agree. We can travel to Europe each year by avoiding La Tour D'Argent; Jules Verne - nice as they are. Our hotel was 160 euros a night; Le Petit Pamphlet about 110 euros for two with wine; no museum was more than 10 euros. We bought three day Metro pass, etc. Concert at Sainte Chapellewas 25 euros each.
Oct 19th, 2006, 12:12 PM
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It sounds as if we travel the same way. We don't skrimp, but we only splurge big time if the restaurant is something that we don't want to miss.
So glad that you went to a concert at Sainte Chapelle. Every year we said that we would go, and finally made it last year - Vivaldi Four Seasons as ight as it is, really comes alive in that venue. We enjoyed it so much last October, that we immedately bought tickets for another concert a few days later.
Per a poster on the board - we sat in the very first row and seeing the expressions on the musicians' faces really made for two wonderful evenings.
Any other restaurant info - pro or con? You were given numerous suggestions before your trip, some we've eaten at and others we haven't. During the Holidays, we will be in the same general area, and we are always looking for good first hand recommendations. We will be staying very very close to Le Petit Pamphlet, so we will definitely try it.
There is a tapas on r. St. Gilles, close to Le Petit Pamphlet, is anyon familiar with it?
What better way to start your retirement (the rest of your life) than a return trip to Paris.
Nina
So glad that you went to a concert at Sainte Chapelle. Every year we said that we would go, and finally made it last year - Vivaldi Four Seasons as ight as it is, really comes alive in that venue. We enjoyed it so much last October, that we immedately bought tickets for another concert a few days later.
Per a poster on the board - we sat in the very first row and seeing the expressions on the musicians' faces really made for two wonderful evenings.
Any other restaurant info - pro or con? You were given numerous suggestions before your trip, some we've eaten at and others we haven't. During the Holidays, we will be in the same general area, and we are always looking for good first hand recommendations. We will be staying very very close to Le Petit Pamphlet, so we will definitely try it.
There is a tapas on r. St. Gilles, close to Le Petit Pamphlet, is anyon familiar with it?
What better way to start your retirement (the rest of your life) than a return trip to Paris.
Nina
Oct 20th, 2006, 10:17 AM
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Hi Anthony,
Really enjoyed reading your trip report and glad that you enjoyed your dinner at Le Petit Pamphlet. We shall certainly add a day trip to Chantilly on our list. We've never been.
What a wonderful first post-retirement trip this must have been!
Really enjoyed reading your trip report and glad that you enjoyed your dinner at Le Petit Pamphlet. We shall certainly add a day trip to Chantilly on our list. We've never been.
What a wonderful first post-retirement trip this must have been!
Oct 21st, 2006, 04:36 AM
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Maribel,
Chantilly is an easy trip from Paris, just 35 minutes. The museum contains paintings by Raphael, Poussin and other fine artists as well as tableware and other artifacts of the 17th and 18th centuries.
It probably would be fun to attend during racing season (June) .
As I cautioned, however, make sure of your gound transportation back to the train station. If we had not captured a cab bringing someone to the chateau my aged body might still be trooping through the plane trees on the way back to the Gare de Chantilly.
I called the BET rail service suggested by Palenque Bob. Just as he said it provides great information and I am indebted to you both.
As to Tod's question, we stayed at the Caron du Beaumarchais in the Marais. We have done so many times. I advise staying in a front side room as they have good light. The cost was 162 euros a night. Courtyard-side rooms are 142 euros but have poor light.
Rooms are small but imaginatively decorated with exposed beams, antiques, etc. Caron is in a superb location within easy walking distance to the Metro "Hotel de Ville", Ile St. Louis, Notre Dame, Pompidou Center, etc. Alain Bigeard, the proprietor, is very friendly and helpful.
Chantilly is an easy trip from Paris, just 35 minutes. The museum contains paintings by Raphael, Poussin and other fine artists as well as tableware and other artifacts of the 17th and 18th centuries.
It probably would be fun to attend during racing season (June) .
As I cautioned, however, make sure of your gound transportation back to the train station. If we had not captured a cab bringing someone to the chateau my aged body might still be trooping through the plane trees on the way back to the Gare de Chantilly.
I called the BET rail service suggested by Palenque Bob. Just as he said it provides great information and I am indebted to you both.
As to Tod's question, we stayed at the Caron du Beaumarchais in the Marais. We have done so many times. I advise staying in a front side room as they have good light. The cost was 162 euros a night. Courtyard-side rooms are 142 euros but have poor light.
Rooms are small but imaginatively decorated with exposed beams, antiques, etc. Caron is in a superb location within easy walking distance to the Metro "Hotel de Ville", Ile St. Louis, Notre Dame, Pompidou Center, etc. Alain Bigeard, the proprietor, is very friendly and helpful.
We're going back to Paris in April and definitely want to go to L'Orangerie. It hasn't been open since we first went to Paris in 2001.
Nov 27th, 2006, 01:55 AM
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Sounds like you had an enjoyable trip.
I, too have enjoyed Chantilly. I have had horses most of my life and thought the museum to be excellent. It was a surprise.
I will also get to the Orangerie. My hotel concierge said that they could get me a ticket for a specified date and time so I would not have to stand in line. I will let them do that as I do not need a Museum Pass for this trip.
I am getting my restaurant list together now....many more places to dine then I have time for!
I, too have enjoyed Chantilly. I have had horses most of my life and thought the museum to be excellent. It was a surprise.
I will also get to the Orangerie. My hotel concierge said that they could get me a ticket for a specified date and time so I would not have to stand in line. I will let them do that as I do not need a Museum Pass for this trip.
I am getting my restaurant list together now....many more places to dine then I have time for!
Nov 27th, 2006, 06:18 AM
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What a nice tidy report. I love your sentiment:
<<I retired in July. This was our first European vacation since then. My wife and I walked, sang, laughed throughout.
Paris is like no place in the world. We are very lucky senior citizens who have again been revivified by the incomparable City of Lights.>>
Our reaction to Paris and life in general is the same. Thanks.
<<I retired in July. This was our first European vacation since then. My wife and I walked, sang, laughed throughout.
Paris is like no place in the world. We are very lucky senior citizens who have again been revivified by the incomparable City of Lights.>>
Our reaction to Paris and life in general is the same. Thanks.
Dec 23rd, 2006, 09:49 AM
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Through the years I have received remarkable information on France and elsewhere from Fodor's participants. Thanks again to all of you.
My wife and I return to St. Remy and Paris in May this time with our daughter and son-in-law for the first time.
I wish you all great travels in 2007.
Merry Christmas, Happy Hannukah to all Fodor's respondents.
Anthony, maintenant en retraite
[email protected]
My wife and I return to St. Remy and Paris in May this time with our daughter and son-in-law for the first time.
I wish you all great travels in 2007.
Merry Christmas, Happy Hannukah to all Fodor's respondents.
Anthony, maintenant en retraite
[email protected]
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