Paris - Nov 3 - Dec 14

The next best thing to being in Paris myself is reading your reports! ;^)

Rob

ParisAmsterdam

Aren't you nice!! Many of us have had fun with these in the past. You all are what makes it so much fun to do...looking forward to it...

a bientot...

Joan

Hi Grace! Yes indeed, I will be amongst many checking in daily to see how Paris is treating you.
Today my DH and I came to a final decision about our 2010 holiday and I couldn't be more delighted when he announced he would prefer to spend our 5 weeks between France ( meaning Paris of course!) and Canada! We were planning a cruise to Alaska but have decided it's all a bit too much.
Yay more Paris next year!

Definitely will be watching for your posts, living in Paris with you.

I know what you mean about echinacea. I took 2 at night for several years from October until March and never had a cold or got sick. Last year I didn't take it and was sick all the time. People say it doesn't work, that it's all in your head. I don't care if it is, it worked for me.

Stay healthy and have a great trip.

bookmarking. Have a great trip!

tpayt,

I know that it has worked for me. A bad cold one time, and got on it and it stoppped. I then stopped taking it too soon and the cold came back. I immediately got back on it and it took care of it, again. I think it is timing with it. But you do have to take a lot of it..every time you think of it, take 2. I probably am taking 6-8 a day right now. They say it can't hurt you.

a bientot...

Joan

I was thinking of you today! (Pretty funny to think of someone you don't know!) On NPR this morning they were interviewing the Constants and I know how much you love their restaurants and that you are friendly with them.
Happy and safe travels and I will be reading.

309pbg
A friend sent me an email this morning about this on NPR this morning. I had an early opthalmologist appointment this morning and it was too late to catch it. I did pull up the website and sent it on to a number of friends along with Catherine Constant. I told Catherine that my arrival flight is later this trip(due to the many cancelled flights)and I will miss my usual Les Cocottes arrival day lunch. I said that I might try for dinner and wondered if I would have a problem, after this!!

I have found and told others, that you should get to Cafe Constant or Les Cocottes by 7:30, or you might not get a table!!

Yes, all the Constant restaurants are good buys for the food that you receive. All different and dependable...Christian is wandering through them all, regularly, too.

a bientot....

Joan

Joan,
I can't believe your trip is finally here! I am sooooo looking forward to reading your entries, especially since I couldn't go to Paris this fall. Don't forget the descriptions & pictures of the delicious food (always a highlight).

I will be living vicariously through you for the next several weeks. Say hi to Florent & Max!

-Roberta

Ooops, not "Max" but "Valdo" at Cafe Max.
(see? I've been away too long)

-Roberta

DH & I are doing Paris in 2010, so I can't wait to read your reports!

Dear Joan,

I, too, will be looking for your reports every day. This past month, a local (Phoenix) restaurant critic wrote an article about a recent visit to Guy Savoy. It literally brought tears to my eyes. If you happen to go there, I want to hear all about it! It is definitely on my list for my next visit.

Best wishes for a fun-filled, healthy and safe journey.

a bientot,

Diane

Dear Joan,
Have a wonderful time,I can't wait to hear of your adventures.We will be heading back for trip #6 in May,so I need some new ideas for dining.
Thanks
Elaine

CityofLight,

I have a name..Diane. I didn't know if a male or a female!

Re: Guy Savoy! It has been several years..maybe longer..that I had dinner at Guy Savoy. I have dined at many of the starred Paris restaurants..1, 2 and 3! I think I can say that I have enjoyed them all, maybe for different reasons..as some are quite different..l'Astrance, for instance!!

When my taxi arrived at Guy Savoy I thought they had mistaken me for the Prime Minister's party..it seemed like a dozen people almost carried me inside! The service and attention was better than superb!! The table spacing was pleasant, although I remember an American couple, middle aged, who were not too far from me. He evidently made some sort of faux pas that really annoyed her. She really chewed him out! I could hardly keep from laughing!

Guy Savoy was very busy doing a lot of PR at the tables, along with giving quite a bit of attention to a private party group.

It was really a great evening. I think they gave me some kind of gift..plate or some such. You just don't look at the cost of the evening!

I place it very high on my list, if not the highest in some ways.

Roberta: You know I will give Valdo a big hug for you!

a bientot....

Joan

gracejoan3 -- i am very envious of your long visit to Paris. I would love to take u up on your generous offer to check into something for me. We will be in Paris beginning on Jan 8 and departing on Jan 17. One of the restaurants we hoped to eat at is Le Pamphlet on 38 rue Debelleym, 3e. phone 33142723924. They dont seem to have a website and I have read on a couple sites that they close the first 2 weeks of January. I hope that is not the case or if so they will be open on our last evening, January 16. So if it is at all possible if u could find out if they will be closed and for what dates. I would really appreciate it. Thank you!

yestravel

I will call them for you next week and get the information that you need. I will get back on here and post it. Watch for it!

Joan

Allons-y!

Thank you so much! I will follow your thread in any case...sounds like u do a fun trip and always looking for some tips for Paris.

Bon voyage! Sante! and God Bless!
I plan to revisit Paris in May 2010. This will be a wonderful "prequel."

Bon voyage gracejoan! Looking forward to reading your trip report. Let us know about the weather conditions there.

This is pretty good for those who will be going before Christmas:
http://goparis.about.com/od/shopping/a/parischristmasmarkets.htm

Joan

Thanks for the link, Joan! We'll be in Paris 12/5-12 and are looking forward to Christmas markets and displays.

Judy,

You will find them all over the place. If you have not seen Paris in all it's Christmas glory, you will find it is special!

Don't know where you are staying, but I like to take an evening walk across Pont Alma, from the 7th, and up Montaigne, past the high fashion shops, Plaza Athenee Hotel and on to Rond Point and look up Champs Elysees, in both directions..take your camera!

Joan

My husband and I are meeting our adult daughters in Paris and we're staying in an apartment on rue de Seine. We usually travel in May or Sept/October so have never seen the holiday decor.
We have planned a walk very similar to the one you describe.

Any idea how long they leave the Xmas decorations up? Are they still up after New Years? Sure would love to see them.

Joan, whilst you are in contact with Le Pamphlet for Yestravel, would you be so kind as to enquire if they close for the month of August? With so many smaller restaurants taking their annual holiday it would be nice to find one or two open for business when we are there next year.

tod

I will add to my list..

Joan

Joan, have an AWESOME time!! I'll be reading your daily posts for sure... I'm so jealous! This time last year I was in Paris and am dying to go back asap.

Enjoy!

hi, what is the weather like in Paris during christmas time? is it anywhere like London, damp and bone-chilling? i am from NY so I can handle winter no problem, but London in December was way cold!

Hi,

It can be chilly, for sure, but it can also be decent. I live in Asheville, NC and it does not bother me!! Dress accordingly! Scarf, gloves, cashmere sweater. Rarely snows in Paris, but this past winter more snow falls than usual.

Joan

thanks joan. please be sure to update us on the weather while you are out there. i know you are leaving in just a few more days. how exciting!

I will pass on daily weather while there. I have been watching it for my trip.

I leave on Monday....

Joan

Wishing you bon voyage, Joan. I'm looking forward to reading your exploits in our favorite city. Safe travels, EJ

joan

I have been following your trip reports for the last yr. I am going solo to paris on nov 11 to 17th. I would love to meet you for dinner some evening that is convenient for you. I have gone to paris for the last 4 yrs. just to enjoy the ambience and food and shops.
I would like your email address so i could get in contact with you. i will not be having a cell phone.
sue

Can't wait for your reports--I will be in Paris for a few days in early Dec, so the timing is perfect. I can not wait to see the City of Lights, all decked out in its Christmas decor!

sueb08,
My travel email address is: abbynoelle3@yahoo.com

Email me and we can be talking about some plans. Let me know what area you will be staying in, etc.

Joan

sueb08,
Received your emails and we will certainly get together in Paris!

We have a few things in the works now and you can makes some decisions re Violon, l'Obe, Les Cocottes and Cafe Constant.

I would be delighted for you to come by my apartment first. Yes, after seeing a Paris Perfect, you probably will decide it is the way to go for your next trip. I think I may be in the Cabernet when you are there. Nice apartment.

You live so near Green Bay and will certainly be watching the football game with Minnesota and Brett Favre when I am flying to Paris. I will hear about if after arrival! Should be a good game..with mixed feelings re Brett!

a bientot...

Joan

I won't miss the football..thought it was the Monday night game!!

Hi Joan, hope you have a fabulous time. Do you mind if I ask a question? I'm curious to know why you change apartments rather than just stay in one for the entire time you are there?

I'm so envious, I don't think I'll get to Paris for ages, not that I'm complaining as we have a trip to Italy planned for next year. But..... I do love Paris (sigh).

I'll be looking forward to your posts, it's so good to read live posts.

Phil,

Paris Perfect has so many great apartments, and I am there for 6 weeks. With that amount of time it gives me the opportunity to see more of them. I know, some would think it a pain to move! Most of their apartments are in the same area..some apartments are in the same buildings..in fact two of them that I may stay in are in the same building..Champagne and St. Julien. An easy move!

I'm sure you will have a good trip to Italy. I think we all love Paris...the reason we just keep returning.....

a bientot...

Joan

Joan,

Can't believe it's already time for your return to Paris! Time flies so fast these days. First question: would you please list all the PP apartments you've previously stayed in? That way we'll have a comprehensive list to ask you lots of questions about. Thx.

I have been looking at the Pauillac apartment for a trip next year. There's part of the floor plan I can't figure out. On the diagram there appears to be a separate room, perhaps up some stairs, but it's hard to read. It's not in the written description. I'd like to know what that is. http://www.parisperfect.com/apartments-for-rent-in-paris/pauillac.php?section=slideshow&sn=20

Jeanne

Jeanne,

I think you must be referring to that piece of floorplan below the large floorplan? If so, I don't think it belongs to the Pauillac. It must be some kind of architecural drawing of something else. If I find out differently, I will let you know.

Joan

A great trip in the making; have a wonderful time!

Hi Sue (grandmere...wish you were going to be there. Jean-Paul and Martine may come in from Alsace to join us for our get together on Dec. 10th. Hope so.

I think it is going to be a great trip, but, they all are!!

a bientot...

Joan

Wishing you happy landings Joan - have a good trip. Look forward to your posts!

Jeanne,

Yes, I was correct. That additional bit of floor plan below the large one, was a maid's room and is now used for storage by the owners. It is to be deleted from the website soon.

Joan

Jeanne,
DH & I stayed in Paulliac last May. It's an extremely beautiful apartment. I'd be happy to answer any questions, if I can.

Bon voyage once again, Joan.
EJ

Thanks. That makes sense.

We're also seriously considering Chateau LaTour. Will look forward to your report!

J

Joan,

OMG, it's that time again. I can't stand it! I followed you in the Spring and have been looking forward to your November trip and it is finally here.

I will be looking in daily for your report and especially for the weather updates as I will be going to Paris with my family for Christmas leaving on Dec. 17th for 10 days and will be staying in a Paris Perfect apartment also.

Have a healthy and safe trip over the pond.

I will be off today!!

Sueb08: I have sent emails to Catherine Constant for our Violon d'Ingres dinner reservation and also to the Hotel Crillon for our Sunday lunch in l'Obe. We can walk over to the Ritz Bar Vendome after lunch. A nice walk and a nice place when we arrive. Looking forward to your arrival at my apartment first.

LiktoTravel: Will keep you posted on the weather. I'm sure you and your family will enjoy your trip. Which Paris Perfect are you staying in?

a bientot...

Joan

Have a safe trip! Looking forward to reading all about it.

Joan...

Have a safe trip...looking forward (as always) to your "on the ground" reporting!

Ma chere Joan,
It was good to talk to you on the phone the other day. Now you're off to our favorite city and should be there before you know it.........
After being sick in Paris and spending 4 weeks in bed or the hospital, I was lucky to have 4 days of dining before getting back home. I will just have to enjoy Paris more following you around. Say hello to our friends on December 10.
Amuse-toi bien.....
bisous,
Lilia

I think I read that Christmas begins for the department stores of Boulevard Haussmann on November 5th this year.

Joan-
Wishing you wonderful travels. I've just discovered this thread. Dh & I are traveling to Paris for our first time Dec. 4-9. We are very much looking forward to Paris at Christmas time. I've already marked some of your suggestions for our trip. I look forward to reading about your travels over the next few weeks. Have a wonderful time.
~Cris

Bonjour Joan, welcome to Paris! Sorry we could not join you on this trip but we will be joining you virtually thru your notes.
Have a great rip!
LD

I have arrived!! It is 2:30 now.

The flight was not fun! They overbooked, the seating was terrible and it went downhill from there!The only good thing is that there was a 160km tail wind..we arrived about an hour early.
My It waas raining rather hard all the way into town. Turned my cell on and called Paris Perfect to tell them theat we aere leaving the airport. Gal was waiting for me when I arrived. The internet system recognized my computer, so no going thru security.

I checked the time and decied to run quickly over to Les Cocottes and Cafe Constant to see which I could get into. I decided on Les Cocottes. Was seated next to a nice gal from Japan. We visited and exchanged cards. She took some pictures of her food and the bell rang that I did not have my camera! I had a nice daily special enree..tomato stuffed with some crabmeat along with some greens. I then had the fricassied chicken with pototoes cocotte.

I returned, unpacked. Most everything is put away. Glad I had a big lunch. It is not that nice outside, so think I will loll around here and go to bed early. The Kir is a cozy nest for a day like today....

a bientot...........

Joan

Yay...you've arrived safely! Your first Paris meal sounds fabulous!

Sweet dreams, Joan. We'll look forward to your reports after you've "recharged".

Time to warm up the camera!

Lunch sounds yummy. Looking forward to your day-by-day so that I can live vicariously

Get a good night's rest so you can start thrilling us all with you great adventures and wonderful meals...looking forward to hearing about everything! Hope the weather improves.

Dear Joan,

Bonne nuit, mon amie! Your lunch at Les Cocottes sounds delish.... Wish I was eating with you - in fact, I was sspretending that I was right there next to you and enjoying the same lunch! How's that for imagination!

Looking forward to your everyday adventures which are always tops!

bisous,
Lilia

Glad you made it safe and sound--sorry to hear about the rain. Enjoy getting settled in--we will follow along.

Enjoy your first morning waking up in the most beautiful city in the world! Don't forget to let me know what the gals are wearing, any new trends, etc. Enjoy a cafe creme in the am...

-Roberta

bon nuit, joan, who has a life I'd like

I'm so excited to see this. Glad you arrived safe and I'll be checking in and hanging on every word. I can't believe it's been three years already. I was in Paris exactly at this time three years ago, but I was lucky and didn't get rain.

glad to see that you arrived safely. it must have felt good to de plane!!

I loved your email concerning our meals.

Am looking forward to following your fun . Hope the weather clears up!!

will be in touch!1

Bonjour,

I am up and ready to go!!

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0003-13.jpg

Joan

Wish I was across the way, waving from one of those balconies! Did you go to Flirt The today? Enjoy your first full Parisian day.

-Roberta

I was off early. I had breakfast at Florent's place. small baguette, croissant, oj and cafe creme. We visited and I asked wherre to find a terry robe that I failed to put in bag. He thought Monoprix. I told him I would be back for lunch.

Went to ecole militaire to load navigo decouverte so hopped on metrop to lamotte-picquet. Monoprix across street. They were disappointing..only long heave terry robes. Markeet was in full swing so wandered therre..might be some robes! No luck..stopped in a few shops and one gal told me of another store down the street. Not sure if it was the one she had mentioned, but found just what I wanted..short, cute terry robe...50% OFF! Her machine would not accept my CapOne or Amex..chip problem, I think. Not sure if some employuees know how to get around our 'dumb' cards, or if the machines just will not accept them. Cash is always acceptable!

Hopped back on metro and decided it was too close to noon hour to go to Sud Ouest to discuss 12/10 GTG. Florent had said that he was full by 1:00..so..just went there! Had a nice lunch. It was sprinkling when I left. Stopped by Paris Perfect's new Welcome Center. It is not fully decorated at the moment, but is very nice! What else would you expect from them!! Here are pics:

First one is from Elle magazine that was done on Flirt The and Florent..others restaurant and my rerolles pasta lunch with Brouilly wine

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001_00-5.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0002_00-2.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0007-7.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0006_00-2.jpg

I will call for information on Pamphlet Restaurant shortly and will post.

I have alreday advised PP re wanting to preview Cotes de Provence...

a bientot.....

Joan

Yestravel and tod:

I just talked with someone at Le Pamphlet. They close the first two weeks of January. Will be open on the 16th. If you want me to make a reservation for you, I would suggest that you email me at my yahoo email address that I entered earlier for sueb, in early Dec. and I will call them for you. I think they will want your hotel or something here and your name, of course. I can double check the closing dates again, too.

Tod re August. I was told they would be back the 25th..

a bientot....

Joan

Joan, The apt. looks wonderful. Sorry to hear the flight was a "drag". Am with you in spirit.

Joan,

Glad to see you made it back to our favorite city again. Would love to be there with you, but since I can't, its always a pleasure to live vicariously through you. Like many others, I'll be checking in daily to see what you've been up to.

Gina

Joan -- this is great following your days...really getting me geared up for our trip in a couple months. Just looking at pictures of all the delcious food makes me hungry!

Thank u so much for contacting Le Pamphlet. I will email you in early December and would be really appreciative if you would call and make a reservation 4 us. I will get the phone number of the apt where we will be staying.

Have a lovely day!

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001-15.jpg See, I am really here!!

I just walked down to Sud Ouest to talk about Dec. 10th. Great time to go there. She did remember me. We will be in a more or less private little area. My memory of a round table was not correct. Must have been some other place. The idea of 'family style' sounded good to her. I will be there for lunch one day soon and will take some pictures. Stu and Ellen, you can watch for them.

It felt a bit warmer now than earlier. The sky is quite clear.

I also did not pack one of the little wash poufs. I use them, rather than a washcloth. I always bring one with me. I stopped in a pharmacie. Try describing that when you don't speak French..or almost none. She did better with her English and finally decided it was the food market. I looked and lloked there..finally found two of them boxed in an area up near the checkout. Could easily have missed them. I needed to get some crackers of some sort to put out and see if my pigeon from last Spring remembers me!!

a bientot...........

Joan

GraceCO,

Glad to hear that you will be here with both sons and your daughter..and..staying in the Vougeout!! Great. We have our plans made. I will take care of the reservations.

We will certainly nget together at both apartments, too. I will be in the Chateau LaTour at that time.

a bientot...

Joan

It looks like the sun is shining and the weather is lovely for you today in Paris!

Love your reports, it makes it feel like I am (almost) there....oh yeah, I am almost there...in three months that is.

This will have to do till them

Do tell all

I enjoyed your pictures today!! I cannot wait to get there.Loved the picture of your meal and wine. I love French wine!!
Take care and enjoy!!

It was sunny this morning,,not bad. I was out for breakfast by about 9:00:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001-17.jpg

I had some area shopping to do and people to visit..dropped by Le Florimond to see if I could make a lunch reservation, OK for 12:30. I then walked down to say hello to Valdo at Cafe Max. I made a lunch reservation for tomorrow with him. Did more shopping and back to apt. before heading back out for lunch. Decided that I should take umbrella.

Had a great lunch:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0003-15.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0002-15.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0004-8.jpg

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From board: I had 1st item for entree, last item for main and the cheese in place of dessert.

Forgot to take picture of amuse bouche. I did have wine.

It was sprnkling when I left and all the way home. I made a couple stops for some purchases. Good place to be now..dreary and wet outside.

a bientot....

Joan

It really sounds like apartments are the way to go for extended stays!

Yes, apartments are the way to go! So much more comfortable..even if you don't do much cooking. I don't cook much at home, so not in Paris, either.

a bientot...

Joan

Hi Joan - Thank you for relaying my enquirey. I'm sure we will still be there around that date.

Hello Gina! Please come to Paris next August!

Hi Joan!
Yes, we are all set to stay in the Vougeot and I look forward to meeting you in person! This will be another wonderful trip.

I appreciate your posts and the daily menus. Your photos are just killing me -- in a good way

Can't wait to get there!!

a bientot,
Grace

Dear Joan,
Great meals as always! With all those wonderful food, I wonder why you always stay as slim as ever! Must be all that walking to and from with the shopping in between.......
Keep them coming, it is always good to pretend we are with you in your adventures....
bisous,
Lilia

I'm sitting here eating an apple for lunch and looking at your photo of a counter full of gorgeous Parisian treats and wondering "what's wrong with this picture?" I should be eating a baguette and a wonderful pistacio pastry in Paris.

I'm home just a month and am already longing to go back---I guess I'll have to do it through your posts. Merci!

Hi Joan,

I just came across your posts. My wife and I will be first-time visitors to Paris from Dallas-area for 3 nights (Nov.12-15). We're planning on bringing only light jackets. Will that be sufficient for the cold and rain there? Also, we plan to use the Metro to get around, so are planning to purchase the multiple-ticket pass at CDG. We will be staying at a little hotel near the Eiffle Tower called the Floride Etoile. Plan to make a day at the Louve. Looks like from reading your posts that we had better plan on about 40 Euros a meal for the two of us. Any suggestions for newbies with so little time? I'm enjoying reading your posts. Thanks, Gary.

Barely_working

I would bring more than a light jacket! Wear a heavier one on the plane..can't pack it! Not sure what you mean by multiple ticket pass. A carnet of 10 tickets is good on metro/bus.

Your hotel is across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower and not far from Trocadero. You can take the 82 bus to Eiffel Tower area and eat at Christian Constant restaurants,Les Cocottes and Cafe Constant for excellent food at reasonable prices. No reservations, so a must do time wise..lunch by 12:30 and dinner by 7:30. You can take the super 69 bus to take you to area of d'Orsay, Palais Royal and Louvre areas...Rivoili has all the tourist stores..can cross the Seine and be in the 6th St. Germain area with many tourist shopping etc. with many restaurants. Bring an umbrella, layered clothing. Look at the weather maps to get an idea of the temperatures..if it is windy, it feels much colder..a wool sweater is always good for underneath your jacket if needed.

You will have full days and will sleep well at night!! Enjoy..you will be in Paris...this will only be getting your feet slightly wet..you will be longing for your next trip!!

Enjoy....a bientot...

Joan

Joan, another of your followers, reading all and enjoying the pictures very much. One of the keys to your popularity I think is that no detail is too small for you to mention. All travelers sometimes need a mundane something left at home, in your case the search for a robe was something we could all need to do.
Thanks for making it all so real for us.

A great looking lunch! I enjoy the menu board as i am sitting here with my french dictionary trying to decipher what i would order. Keep taking pictures of the menu board.only six more days and i will be there.

Excellent advice from Gracejoan3! barely_working: Have you had a walkabout in the area of your hotel? It is lovely, which the 16th is of course!

Here is the link to your hotel area - just click on the Paris dot and type in the address of the hotel in the little box and you will see the building, street and following the arrow, be able to walk around the area :http://tinyurl.com/c9rapm

Have a wonderful time.

Thanks so much Joan for your sage advice. We will pack a sweater or two and some gloves and a couple of small umbrellas just in case. I can see why you have so many loyal followers, you are an impressionist! But you use words instead of paint. Your journals paint vibrant visions on virtual canvas for everyone to enjoy as if they were their own. I, too, am now an avid fan of your travelogue.

Barely_working,

Did I mention to bring a acarf or two? You will want them..or you can easily buy then here, too..

Joan

I was up and off this moring to rue du Bac to Deyrolle and various great places in the area. I stopped at Eric Kayser for a bit of breakfast..was yours like this?

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0002-16.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001-16.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0003-16.jpg

I was going to hop back on the 69 and not running between 10:00 and 1:00..manifestation..so I walked Grenelle..a zillion gendarmes..some with large shields..don't know what that was all about! I got my exercise, too.

I stopped by Violon d'Ingres as I had not had a reply from Catherine and not not seen Christian..figured they were on holiday, as are many others for this holiday period. Alexandre confirmed they that were on holiday and took care of my reservation..have now just received an email from Catherine that she had just spoken with Alexandre and new I had stopped in. All is well for Sueb08 for next week. She will join me at my apartment..the Cabernet..and we will then go to Violon for dinner..Friday the 13th!!

The sun is out and it is a nice day today. I had left a coat in May that I have been wearing since I arrived. I will graduate to the heavier one as time goes by!!

I plan to go to Cafe Constant this evening. Yes, I will arrive early..by 7:30..to make sure of a table!

a bientot...

Joan

I wonder if this works:

http://gracejoan.imageloop.com

a bientot....

Joan

Ha! I can't believe you forgot to pack something, never mind two things!

No, my breakfast didn't look like that; I'm sitting at my desk with my cup of instant coffee and home-made whole wheat bran muffin bread. And drooling over your pictures!!

Sounds like a *wonderful* trip, and you're barely started!

OMG...now that I have wiped the drool off my chin I can say, my breakfast did not look like yours! Sounds like you are having a marvelous time...looking forward to more posts and pictures!

Not fair! LOL. Why, oh why are there more places like this in the US? Sigh....

Haven't looked into Image Loop yet-is it a new site? Cute slide of breakfast.

Obviously, meant to say "aren't" instead of "are"..

My supervisor thought he would do us a favor this Friday morning and brought in Krispy Kreme. No contest at all, none. IMO of course.

Joan,
Which bakery is that? The one on the corner near your apartment? Fabulous pics. My scrambled eggs sucked.

-Roberta

NP,

You are in NC? Where? I am in Asheville..not at the moment..but when home!!

It is cloudy now..looks like it might shower.

Just got off the phone to friend in SC...free phone service here. She teaches French to some seniors, with high school French, and then plans some trips to France.She is putting one together and wants a Paris Perfect apartment for the group. Just picked out the Rully for her group. The layout for sleeping would be perfect!! She will do some looking when here in Dec.

I will post some pictures after Cafe Constant this evening...

a bientot.

Joan

Roberta,

Sorry about your scrambled eggs!!

I was down on rue du Bac and it was the Eric Kayser there. I could have had scrambled eggs there, too!

Lots and lots of boots!! Many stores have big sales on them, too!! Sales all over the place... I will think of you this evening when at Cafe Constant...

a bientot...

Joan

Oh Joan...those pictures are killing me...Here I sit in Starbucks with a latte and a poor excuse for a croissant...everything looks so fresh and wonderful...I know you're enjoying every minute..keep those pictures coming!

tod----thanks for the great wesite on Paris streets. We can now look at all our favorite places.

TPAYT

The google map ones are good, too. You can look all up and down the streets. Fun to play with...

Joan

http://www.imageloop.com/en/slideshow/380b488f-b69d-1ff8-a1bd-12313b0078b1/index.htm

I clicked the above too soon! I don't know where you are eating tonight, but my dinner was excellent!

The entree was artichoke and mushroom with some greens and light dressing...marvelous..The main was foie gras stuffed quail, mushrooms, small potatoes...delicious, delicious. That is an apple tarte.

I'm sure I have spoiled your dinner!!

Beautiful meals; such fun you must be having!

Meals look delicious and slideshow works great.
Another nice thing about Google maps. You can save to "mymaps" It enables you to mark places of interest and a notes section on each. We are using it to help set itinerary for our December trip. Fun easy way to see what is close in each area to visit and where to stop and eat.
Hope you have nice weekend weather, Joan.

Ahh Eric kaiser bakery!

It looks like you are having a great day, I stayed near rue du bac the last few visits but did not see Deyolle?? I will have to take a look at it. We spent alot of breakfasts at that Eric kayser and also the frommage just across the street. am soo anxious to get there next weeek. Thanks for the communication from Catherine. I sent the shuttle inter an email. should hear soon from them.

Great pics of the meal. Joan, you've really gotten the hang of this, right? So far, your "settling in" days are fabulous. Continue with the details, mon ami. Missing Paris...

-Roberta

Joan,
Looks like you are having a great time...Where is the Eric Kaiser bakery?
Grace

Grace,

There are a number of them around Paris. I was in the 18 rue du Bac because I was in the area shopping.

Many other excellent ones. I will go to one that I like on St. Dominiqe this morning, unless I go to Cafe Constant or go to Florent's and chat with him....

I'm in no hurry this morning..looks partly cloudy. I think supposed to be chilly. Have not looked at temps, yet..

a bientot...

Joan

Bonjour,

I walked down to a nearby favorite spot for petite dejeuner..took a few pictures for you.

I then wandered down St. Dominique to various favorite places. I did stop and take a picture of a 'pile' of ceps!

I am going out later for afternoon tea!

Let's see what this looks like:
http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=fe50ab3d.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Joan, I wish you sunny skies, mild temperatures, good times with good friends, continued fabulous food and most of all...safe travels. I am enjoying your trip as well and thank you for your reports and many kindnesses. Be well, Karen

I was just about to have a pop tart, then I saw the pictures from your petit dejeuner- now I'm jealous, and starving!! I can't wait to get to Paris next month--I'm loving every minute of your report and taking notes. Thank you for sharing.

Oh that girolle pasta at the Flirt The looks so good. That cafe goes on my list!

Sigh...

"I wish you sunny skies, mild temperatures, good times with good friends, continued fabulous food and most of all...safe travels. I am enjoying your trip as well and thank you for your reports and many kindnesses."

Karen (rampchic) said it perfectly for all of us.

EJ

Oh those pictures!!!!!! I'm dying here. It's not as good as being there for sure, but your pictures and report are the next best thing. Our paper this morning said it's supposed to rain shower in Paris today.

Hope cepes are still around when we're there in early Dec !!!!

We paid twice the price on Thursday at our produce store.

Stu Dudley

Joan:

There's a place on my restaurants list, based on some long-forgotten trip report, I'm sure. Never made it over there, but the cheese souffle was so highly recommended I keep thinking I'll try it.

I wonder if you know it?

L'Auberge Bressane
16, avenue de la Motte-Piquet

JeanneB,

Yes, I know the place. Almost across the street from Le Florimond. I have never been. I know there were some mixed reviews about the place, but ther are mixed reviews about every place!

It is bone chilling out there today. Grey and penetrating.

Not sure what I will do....

Joan

I stayed in the area todaydoing all my little things. Stopped on the corner to the brasserie and had lunch...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001-20.jpg

a bientot..

Joan

So many people do not know about the wonder of perfectly poached eggs.

kerouac,

Glad you noticed that poached egg!

Joan

Enjoying your meals! Sorry about the weather. May I presume that you have a neck scarf? It seems to keep one as warm as adding another layer does, n'est-ce pas?

Oh, yes I have scarves! Many, many!!

I plan to go to Davoili in the morning and pick up some goodies. I have already looked online to see my choices!!

a bientot..
Joan

Wow, what a great looking lunch! That pic came out great, Joan.

-Roberta

sigh -- 2 more months til i'll be there in the meantime this is so enjoyable to read and to look at the pictures.

(sorry for the repetitiveness of the word "great")
I was browsing the Davoli site, I think they're closed on Mondays...

Just dropped in to say hello. Joan!
mimi was is green with envy.

Yes, Davoli is closed on Monday..I think I lost a day along the way.

I need to pack, as I am moving to the 'Cabernet' apartment on Tuesday. That won't take long..

a bientot...
Joan

I've been back a week from two weeks in Paris, and now reading (and seeing pix of all the food) feel like I am back. Well, not quite, but this is great. I must admit, I don't eat quite as well as you do. Even so, I gained 3 lbs in spite of all the walking. Weatherwise, those 2 weeks were perfect. One rainy (light rain!) day. Only needed light jacket other days. I never put on my cashmere sweater or used scarf. I think it started raining and getting colder the day I flew out.

Wish I could be there for your GTG -would love to meet you, as you sound like so much fun! I'll be checking in everyday, though. I stayed in a hotel this trip, but next time I want a Paris Perfect apartment! The Kir sounds perfect for a solo traveler.

I have the shuttle-inter picking me up on wed am. That is the the way to go I have had to make a call in the past and do not care to do that this time . They did give me a 5 euro discount on the return trip.

Your meal looks great. I would not have known that to be a poached egg. Healthy!

Sue4,
Yes, the Kir is great for a solo traveler. It has everything and more that you could want or need. Plan ahead, though as it is popular.

Sueb08,

Glad you are set with shuttle-inter. Yes, it is nice not to have to call someone after arriving. They should be there waitng for you with a sign with your name.

You do have my cell phone number that I gave you by email?
Have a good flight..

a bientot...

Joan

Hello Joan,
I agree with RobertaL - that was a great looking lunch! How about the name of the brasserie & what it was you ordered?
It looked divine!

Hi Tod,

Le Champ de Mars Brasserie..on corner of St. Dominique and Bourdonnais..not the Dome. Have been told that it is not good. It seems to be called Salade Jour 3. I think it was the only one that said ouef(egg).

I am going tonight to La Taverna. It is on Champ de Mars between Bosquet and Bourdonnais. Closer to the corner of Bosquet. Almost across from that Brasserie that you asked me about on the corner of Bosquet, I think.

Re-loaded my Navigo this morning. Had breakfast at Flirt The and chatted with Florent. Something going on at Ecole Militaire this evening..a concert of some sort beginning about 6:30.

I changed to my leather coat today. It was comfortable along with a good scarf. I could have worn my gloves, too!

I ran into Christian Constant this morning, so know they are back from their holiday. I did send Catherine an email asking what plans the Constant Restaurants had for Christmas and Christmas Eve. I doubt that any will be open Christmas. As soon as I hear, I will post, so that will be known.

a bientot....

Joan

Grateful thanks Joan - Yes, I do remember asking you about a corner Brasserie as it looked so interesting on PagesJaunes.

You have convinced me that an apartment is the way to go for a stay of a week or longer. Unfortunately we just aren't able to meet the rates for a lovely apartment like KIR @ E1365 odd for a week in August - translates into mega fugures when converted to South African Rands. We looked at Cotes de Provence for a bit less but the eating arrangement (off a little coffee table) didn't appeal.
So, I have bitten the bullet and gone with this cutie in Bastille: http://www.vrbo.com/103254

It was reccommended by someone else on this board and I think it will suit us for a first time attempt at an apartment.

I am hoping that some of the Constant restaurants will be open from the 20th August!

Hi Tod,

That looks like a cute spot that you have found.

I will be previewing the Cotes de Provence for someone else. I will look more closely at the dining arrangements. I know there is the small counter in the kitchen, but not for dinner!

I will check on the Constant August closing dates.

a bientot...
Joan

Tod, That looks super. Please let everyone know how it went. Will pray to the weather gods for you.

Bonjour Joan,

Tod brought up an interesting point. I had noticed the lack of a dining table in the Cotes de Provence too.

It sounds like you are having a great time and, like many others, I am truly enjoying following along. Love the pictures!

Diane

Hi,

I am mentioning the dining table. It may be that they would replace with a small drop leaf table that would do well for the space.

I had a nice dinner in a nice atmosphere place. I will return. I did forget to take pics of amuse bouche and entree..sorry...

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_00012-2.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_00022-4.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_00032-3.jpg

This might be better:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=425ec2e2.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Joan, I like the way the pics are set up in the link with the 3 separate photos. The pics jump out nice and big (just the way I like to view a delicious meal if I can't actually eat it)!

By the way, was that lunch chicken or fish (over pototoes?). And what was the dessert?????

Bon Soir!!
-Roberta

Ok, now I keep thinking...What time is it in Paris? and What is Joan eating?..everything looks so fantastic...thanks for sharing.

Roberta

It was seabass over a bed of mashed potatoes...very good. I forgot to take a picture of the entree..an artichoke salad and dessert was tiramisou...I think it said at the bottom of picture?? This was dinner. I am just not able to eat both lunch and dinner..one or the other. Also I was at Florent's in the morning and had a croissant, a small toasted baguette, orange juice..I should take a picture there for next breakfast...Thursday, for sure...

Sounds like more exciting things happening..will know tomorrow, for sure...

a bientot....

Joan

Bonjour Joan,
This is a great read and so much help as I get ready for my trip Dec. 2. I will be spending 10 days with my son and GF in their apartment in the 13th. I love your photos and weather reports!! I have a question about going out in the evenings - do women where dresses or does the cold dictate pants for evening?

Thanks so much!!

I don't even bring dresses or skirts anymore. I wear pants to 3 star places, too. So, I would say, just bring pants. You can have nice top, jacket, whatever. Jeans are very acceptable, too...not 3 star!I wear jeans every day..have a jacket, whatever top, scarf, sit down and who knows what you have on underneath the table!

You will enjoy your trip and stay. If you have not been before to see all the Christmas decorations you most certainly will enjoy!!

a bientot...
Joan

Joan,
Are you posting at 2:00am??? If you are, I must say you are enjoying every moment of Paris. Florent was so nice to us in Paris. Next time, try to get a pic of Florent with your croissant. Hey, that rhymes...

-Roberta

To my observation, many women in Paris do favor skirts and dresses, but I'd have to be going someplace really fancy for that and no longer bother. For years, I packed a dress or skirt (plus the slip, stockings, dressier shoes) and just never felt like putting all that on or wearing it after being out and about all day. So, for just a week or two trip, I no longer bother.

Black slacks, a nice top, and a beautiful sweater or blazer (in black or your favorite color), plus a bit of jewelry, nice belt, scarf...will take you just about anywhere.

One evening we will be attending a theater to see my son's GF's play - I will be meeting her parents for the first time (they are french as she is) - it's likely that we will be having dinner out as well. I might just throw in a dress just in case. Other bases are covered - comfy boots, flats, warm scarf, gloves, warm coat and rain coat - slacks, sweaters. I hadn't thought about jewelry - maybe just throw in some pearls and call it good.

This will be my second time in Paris (1st was last summer) so I am really looking forward to the Christmas decorations and lights etc.

Merci, Merci for all the help!

Joan,

What joy to wake up to new postings by you.

I want to thank you for sharing your car service with me. I am very happy with how quickly shuttle-inter.com handled my request for arrival and departure service. I made sure to advise you referred me. I finalized all the travel specifics in two e-mails and within 24 hours due to the time differences. All that is left for me and my family to do is pack for our Christmas in Paris trip to include new Christmas decorations we bought for our Paris Perfect Apartment.

I will continue to read your posts looking for Christmas Eve Dinner suggestions.

Take care and keep the photos coming.

For taking dresses or not..it is pretty much what you feel comfortable with. I'm sure you will enjoy all.

Yes, I have used shuttle-inter for several years. They have always been there for me. Now and then people have to understand that the airlines may change gates/terminals and this can cause a problem.

I will post the Christmas dining probably by the weekend.

a bientot...

oh, a beautiful day today..warm, bright sun..great

I did move this afternoon. I am in the Cabernet apartment. I had not been in this one before. I like it!! I am mostly unpacked...soooo much closet/storage space!

This out my window to the right of where I am sitting:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001-20.jpg

More later...a bientot....

Joan

With all of that great food, how do you FIT in your clothes - whether dresses or pants - at the end of your stay? ha

flounder,

Often I, and others,lose weight in Paris. You walk and you eat healthy food..a good combination! Portions are small, you eat at a slow pace and enjoy your meal. Food is, no additives.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0002-19.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001_00-6.jpg

I first started communicating with Joan early last year. She gave me a tip about discounts on a Paris Perfect apartment rental. By then we had already reserved Champagne, but her tip saved us around $2,000 for our 3 week stay. I offered to take her to dinner when we arrived as a 'thank you" (I think she still has a "credit" with us), since she was going to be in Paris at the same time we were going to be there. I also followed all her restaurant posts on Fodors. I developed an "image" of her weighing about 250 pounds, rather portly, and tall.

We planned to meet at our Champagne apt to have Kirs & chat before dinner at Les Fables de la Fontaine. She knocked on our door, I opened it & looked straight ahead. About 1 foot below 'straight ahead", there she was - petite, slender, and not the "moose" I expected. I don't know how she does it.

Stu Dudley

Stu, you are funny!!

I thought everyone lost weight in Paris!!

I don't know about you for our little gathering in Dec. with all the foie gras that you will probably be eating!!

I have the ET at my right elbow here in the Cabernet. I will be enjoying the Champagne ahead of you...next on my list and then St. Julien in the same building.

Not a bad day today weatherwise. Not the bone chilling!

I am about to walk ove to Les Cocottes shortly. Just go out the front door and walk a little down the street, as you well know.

Sueb08 sent an email a little while ago. She was about to leave for her flight. She gets in before noon tomorrow. She will come here on Friday evening and we will go to Violon for dinner. She wants to stay in a PP next trip.

Heard from good friend, weekender, last night. He will arrive in Paris on the 10th, join out GTG..how nice. He has reservations at l'Abbaye...nice hotel. I have stayed there, too..been a few years. You will enjoy meeting him.

a bientot...

Joan

Joan, I completely agree with you about eating in Paris and weight. My weight stayed the same and I ate what I wanted.

Funny story Stu!

I just returned from Les Cocottes. Always good..what can you say... great weeather today..hope it continues..

a few pics..

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=69232184.pbw

a bientot...
Joan

Hi Joan,

Great read! I'm getting ready to head to Paris next Friday (Nov. 20). From a brief reading, it seems that the weather is chilly. Can you confirm? I'm trying to decide what to bring as far as the type of jacket. It's a toss up between the warmest down jacket from this vendor, but it's very lightweight or another down jacket that's meant for not so cold temps. I think I'm leaning towards the warmest down jacket.

Thanks,
TR

I think my 3-lb weight gain there was probably due to too many croissants at breakfast! I can't seem to stop at just one. But fortunately, I already lost the 3 lbs (in just one week). So it was worth it!

I had a chuckle today, Joan, when I saw pics of Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas coming out of Hotel Bel Ami in Paris. In addition, the cast from the movie "Twilight" is at the Hotel Crillon. You're surrounded by such a hip crowd, Joan...LOL!!

-Roberta

Dear Gracejoan - we were in Paris for the first time in September and all we can say is "thanks" to you. For the apartment recommendation (Paris Perfect Champagne--so so great), restaurant tips, wardrobe tips and really your lovely attitude and appreciation for Paris. We'd been planning for the past 18 - 24 months, reading all the posts on several travel sites, and again and again - your voice came through above the din. I read your posts voraciously and hope to continue for many more trips!

More sighs! We hope to go to France in March. But not Paris this time. Alas

Dear Gracejoan...if you would like to join us for dinner on 12/13 at Le Suffren, please contact me: rzolezzi@aol.com.

Travel Ribbon
Friday the 20th shows high of 51. I wouldn't take something that is too heavy and bulky, You need something warm, but you can also wear a wool sweater underneath for tha bit of extra warmth. I always have a black cashemere cardigan with me. It also might make a difference here you live..if south Fla or Green Bay, you might look at it differently!

Laurela..Arent't you nice! Thank you for your kind words. I receive so much information from others, and if I can pass along some things, too, than I am pleased. I am sure you enjoyed the Champagne apt. It is quite special, isn't it? I will be in it next. I also like the views here in the Cabernet. The building across the street is lower than most and I can look to the right from where I am sitting and can see quite far down the 'legs' of the tower. I enter on St. Dominique but I face Rapp. Similar to the view from the Fleurie, which is entered from Rapp..probably bldg. next door. Enjoy your trip planning.

RonZ..Thank you for the invitation. I know I would enjoy joining you. Sunday 12/13 is my last day in Paris. I am departing on the 14th. I will most probably be going to l'Obe in the Crillon for lunch with a friend who will be here at that time. We will probably walk on over to the Ritz and the Bar Vendome after, for whatever and spend the evening packing for early morning departure. If the Bar Vendome happens to fit into your schedule, that would be nice? I have not been to Le Suffren..have you been before? Can put it my list. In the neighborhood!

Foggy out there this morning. Top of the tower is hidden, now. Feels a bit chilly out there. I will shower, venture out and make the big decision of who will serve me something for breakfast, and get a feel for the day's weather.

Sue arrives from Gree Bay today and will email or call me from her hotel...need to look it up...that she has arrived!

a bientot....
Joan

Not cold out, but still foggy. It looked like the sun was coming out earlier..late today. Will see what it does later.

Nice breakfast..straightening up around here and doing some laundry. I will await Sues call that she has arived OK.

Your morning photos:
http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=fb24bd28.pbw

Hi Joan,
Thanks for my daily dose of Paris! DH & I have stayed in Cabernet and are headed back in May. I knew you would like it. It's a very nice apartment with an unbeatable view of la tour Eiffel. Over the years, we've stayed in Pinot and Paulliac, and previewed Clairette and Tokay. Always fun. You continue to enjoy, and we'll continue to follow along. EJ

Hi Joan,

Thanks for your update! I will keep that in mind when I start packing (whenever that is!). I have cashmere sweaters on my list to bring. Ugggh - the craziness of packing!

Merci,

TR

EJ.

Yes, I like the Cabernet. You know exactly where I am sitting..look to my right and the ET is right there!

Everything is closed today..they do celebrate this holiday. I walked across Parc Champ De Mars to ave Suffren and walked along it and then back and to my patisserie where I often have breakfast. They also serve meals. They were busy. I had this nice salad with goat cheese on toast points;

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=e4b3d09e.pbw

It is all that I really felt like eating.

Lots to do tomorrow...

a bientot...

Joan

Good evening Joan, I hope you have had another lovely day in Paris!
Your Goats Cheese salad looked wonderful. I look forward to going to the markets to buy some next year! I like them grilled and a huge squeeze of honey drizzled all over the bubbling cheese!

We have had confirmation that the little studio apartment in Bastille is available and our dates pencilled in. The owners are being very kind and letting me make sure our airline seats are all securely booked so that I don't have to make cancellations or changes before paying the deposit.

What do you think of this hotel I have just booked for the 2 days before our departure from Paris to Canada after the Tour de France? I took a walk all around the island on PagesJaunes and am thrilled with the village feel and lovely surrounds. I even spied a Chinese restaurant somewhere which will make my stay even better - you probably know by now that I adore Asian Cuisine!
Here it is:http://www.hoteldelajatte.com/index.html

tod,

Great on the studio, Yes, get you air taken care of first.

The hotel looks very nice.

Looks like you are getting it all together!!

a bientot...

Joan

I have arrived here safely. It was a great flight on Air France. It was not a full plane and many of us had an empty seat next to us.
I am staying near the Crillon Hotel. I think I will walk over tomorrow and look for the cast of Twilight. Like i would recognise anyone. There was alot of traffic today and many people were shopping and looking at the Christmas decorations. too early for me!!
Joan your pictures out of your window were great! I envy your view!!!!Cannot wait to see PP on fri nite.
I hope to have a full day tomorrow just taking in all the ambience of thid beautiful city!!

sue,

We will be at the Crillon on Sunday, at l'Obe. You might see more activity.

Glad the area was open and active for you, being that it was a holiday!

We can see what the weather is like on Sat. for the Pres. Wilson Market possibility.

Joan

It is a great day today with the weather. I have been busy. I did have breakfast with Florent at his Flirt The this morning. Stayed til Michel arrived to visit with him, too.

We made plans to dine together on Saturday evening. They will come here, first. They like to see where I am staying.

I did take these pictures of the 4 Constant Restaurants...so-so pictures...
http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=1ccb5176.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Joan, your photos, the slide shows and reports were terrific! I've been to Paris a number of times with different friends and have stayed in several neighborhoods. This time, a friend and I will be staying in the Marais at a small hotel that we like (I could not persuade her to try an apartment although they always are perfect for me). We'll be arriving on Dec. 29th and I will contact shuttle-inter for a relaxed arrival, thanks to you. We are looking forward to New Year's Eve, but I have heard on other boards that nothing special goes on that night, that it is more about Parisians being with their families. Do you or any of your fans and friends have suggestions for how and where to ring in the new year?

poetess,

I have not been in Paris for New Year's Eve..Christmas, but not New year's.

I would think that there would be places in the Marais along with some major hotels that would be good places.

Someone else may have more to suggest to you.

I'm sure you will have a good time!

a bientot...

Joan

Just returned from Les Cocottes. I have some pictures below.

Earlier today I took the 69 bus to BHV. It is always fun. You could spend days there!!

I then went to Flirt The and had afternoon tea and a plum tarte.

Poetess: All the Constant restauranats will be opne New Year's Eve. I think you will find places in your area, though.

*** Christmas Eve/Christmas Day - Constant Restaurants***

They will ALL be closed!!

Weather today was great!! I do see a few more restaurants putting up their outside enclosures each day.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001_00-8.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0002_00-4.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0002_00-4.jpg

a bientot....

Joan

Great, I am having afternoon tea at this very moment. Except mine is a boring green tea from Lipton. Even if I had the same exact one in Paris, somehow, I think it would taste better there. Fabulous looking lunch.

I love BHV!! I spent quite a bit of time picking out a purse there. Then ran up to the top floor as the store was closing in order to get my VAT paperwork. I tried to make up for the blunder of forgetting the VAT at the Heyraud shoe store down the street from BHV (went back, but store was closed!). Did you ever visit that shoe store chain, Joan?

Oh, and no plum tarte here either...

-Roberta

Joan -- Greetings from a fellow North Carolinian!! I've just joined your fan club and wanted to add my thanks to the others' for the delightful trip report! Just in the last two days, I have been trying to pull together a spur-of-the-moment getaway to London and Paris for Nov. 23-Dec. 2 and had been a little overwhelmed at all the planning required. Although I have been to Paris before, my last trip was in Nov. 2000, so I'm a little rusty on my knowledge of the city. It's been wonderful (and helpful!) to read of your activities -- and I've been taking copious notes of the restaurants and shops you visited. I am very sad to say, though, that it doesn't appear we'll be able to stay with Paris Perfect, something I have wanted to do for some time. I emailed with Michelle this morning and learned the only apartment available for the time we would be in Paris (Nov. 27-Dec. 2) was Hermitage, and as a 2-bedroom property, it unfortunately is a bit to costly for the two of us. Do you or anyone else on the thread have any recommendations for a place to stay in the 7th? When last in Paris, I stayed in the 7th and absolutely loved it. Didn't love the hotel, hence my request for help!! I had hoped to stay in an apartment with a kitchen due to my food allergies (wheat/gluten -- yes, your bakery photos have been torture!!), but I'm willing to give that up for a clean, non-smoking room in a nicely located hotel. Any thoughts?

Please keep those reports coming! We're enjoying the trip immensely!

Audrey

Joan, your photos are wonderful -- they are bringing back great memories -- I can visualize exactly what street you are on when taking them...

I can't wait to get there on December 2...Haven't packed yet, but your weather posts are very helpful for planning what to take. Seems cooler than our Colorado weather...I am packing even lighter than last time and my sons are doing the same -- one small bag each. My daughter has asked me to take some of her things back with us, so she has fewer bags to lug around on the 19th when she returns home. So, I will be packing one of those fold up Longchamp bags.

Thank you again for the wonderful travelogue!

a bientot,
Grace

Joan
I am finally back in my hotel room with feet that feel like I have walked 20 miles. I did walk all day but did not have a pedometer.
After my breakfast at the hotel ,I went over to the Orangerie Museum. I did enjoy it and there was no line to get in.
I stopped at Laduree for a few macaroons. That was my lunch. Pure sugar.
For dinner I walked over to Le Souffle. It was very enjoyable. I had a glass of white house wine to start.My starter was a plate of scallops. I chose the chicken and mushroom souffle.It was very good. The restaurant had every table occupied by the time i left.
I am looking forward to tomorrow evening. I will give you a call just before i enter the taxi.
bon soir
Sue

Carrobogirl, I met Joan during a previous trip to Paris. Yes, those apartments are absolutely lovely and I hope to stay in one in the future.

The last hotel I stayed at, Hotel Duquesne, is in the 7th and I really enjoyed it. We were lucky enough to be on the 5th floor with a balcony view of the Eiffel Tower. It was a few minutes to the metro and buses are even closer. We walked to the Eiffel Tower, Rue Cler & great restaurants. I would stay there again. Enjoy your trip!

-Roberta

Thanks, Roberta! Hotel Duquesne looks lovely. I'll see what they have available. I've been looking at other apt rentals options but haven't found much in the 7th. I appreciate you sharing your recommendation!

Audrey

Hi CarrboroGirl,
My notes show vrbo #94017, 113948, and 120200 as possibilities for your dates. Also try Paris Rental Connections (St.Dominique) and Holiday-France-Rentals(Avenue Rapp and others in the 7th) These are flats that I've bookmarked, but have not stayed in, so I can't give any first-hand opinions. Good luck! EJ

CarrboroGirl,

The Paris Rental Connections (St. Dominique) is an apt. that friends rented for a memeber of their family a year ago,,great location for you. At that time, it seems the kitchen was somewhat outdated. That might have been changed. You might check it out.

Good luck,

Joan

GraceCo,

I will keep reporting the weather. Great lately! We are still on for Sat. the 5th? I will make those reservations this Sunday when I am there.

A thought, if Lauren still has Nathan's email address,(I have it) she might send him an email that she and her brothers will be making a day of it on that Sat. and would he like to join them. He could be a helpful guide for them, too. He is very nice!

Joan

CarrboroGirl,

Think I forgot to mention that many seem to like the Muguet Hotel, too. Also ran into someone who had very nice things to sal about the hotel Le Walt..it is across the street from ecole militiaire metro..

Joan

I am in paris from 18 to 20th dec. Though time is less. I want to see all. Recommend places not to be missed during this time. And where to shop for some good stuff, not costly though

khushi2k

You're going to be in Paris for 3 days..... perhaps less if the 18th & 20th are travel days. For someone to provide you with useful information, you need to express what your interests are - shopping, museums, architecture, dining, people watching, lingering at cafes, partying, antique/flea markets, food markets, night-clubing, boutiques, etc.

You can't possibly "see all" unless you have a typo in your post and are really going to be in Paris from Dec 18 2009 till Dec 20 2011. I live in San Francisco - and there is a lot of stuff to do & see here - but it's "nothing" compared to the amount of stuff there is in Paris. I'm not even sure that "seeing all" is possible in an unlimited amount of time, since so many museums, shops, restaurants, etc change their offerings a countless number of times in the year.

Stu Dudley

sueb08,

Sue, sounds like you had a busy day. Isn't l'Orangerie nice? I hope you went below, too?

I haven't been to Le Souffle in several years. Has always been a good, depemdable place.

Why don't you come a little earlier..7:30? Yes, call me before you leave. I will look for you downstairs. 124 rue St. Dominique.

a bientot...

Joan

khushi2k: I see you are a new member her on Fodor's. Welcome! Stu Dudley and Gracejoan3, among many other contributors, are a wealth of knowledge. But in order to provide specifics to help you, people need more information.

Might I suggest you pull up previous "first time" type Paris threads through Fodor's chat search engine, which will get you started and help you narrow down your interests? Then you can post your own thread with specific questions to fine tune your personalized trip.

You sound very motivated...brought back the excitement I felt the first time I traveled to Paris! We recently spent a weekend in Paris with our (young)adult son and two of his friends. My husband and I didn't try to keep up with them and we basically enjoyed meals together. When I saw their pix, it was astounding how much they were able to see and do and it sure looked like they enjoyed every moment. So you can do a lot in a short time, but if I may offer one tip: don't do it so fast that you lose the "essence" of the moment.

Joan: As always, enjoying every moment. We will be back Dec. 12-14 and can hardly wait! Thanks again, Joan.

khushi2k:

Yes, tell us more so we can better help you. What type of things do you want to see..or is it good dining, etc. Do you want go from early morning to late in evening, or a slower pace. Give some ideas and I'm sure you will receive some help.

You are only going to be in Paris long enough to make you want to begin planning the next trip.

a bientot...

Joan

What a super day. I cooked this morning! What that means is that I went across the street to the patisserie and bought a croissant, came home and did the nespresso machine, and had some oj. Paris Perfect has a welcome basket with oj, milk and a bottle of water. I had put them in the refrigerator, but I had forgotten to turn it on...I turned it on this morning!

I then walked down St. Dominique, taking a few pictures here and there and to rue Cler to buy some flowers and take a few more pictures!

Here they are:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=ccfeef02.pbw

Yes, Joan, that's the way to cook, Paris-style! So easy to do at that end of rue St. Dominique. I see you took a photo of the butcher shop downstairs. This is the place I told you about last year. In addition to the usual roasted chicken, they have some delicious prepared foods. If you like cauliflower, their souffle is not to be missed. Enjoy, EJ

Still with you spirit! The plum tart looked pretty special.

FYI, Had lunch in local hospital cafeteria (Glen Burnie Md) and believe it or not, they served a roast chicken that tasted similar to those in Paris. DH had soup and the whole thing was less than $10. There is hope yet!

elsiejune,

The butcher shop always has a long line of people outside..good sign!

What great looking stuff at Davoli every day! Can't buy any for a few days at least.

Sue, from Green Bay area, is coming by tonight and we have 8:30 reservations for Violon. She has never been to a Constant restaurant. She also wants to see a PP apt. and thinks that is what she wants to do next trip.

Tomorrow Florent and Michel will be coming by and we will then go out to dinner, a place of their choice.

Sunday Sue will be joining me at l'Obe (Crillon) and then plan on walking over to Bar Vendome in the Ritz.

Davoli is closed on Mon. Will have to look at the butcher shop downstairs and see what kind of goodies there. Will get to Davoli, too.

Will take pics tonight for all and for Sue to take home to show family and friends.

The Cabernet is comfortable. Practically same view as Fleurie. Fleurie is in bldg. next door with entrance on Rapp. I really do like the Fleurie..so spacious!

I think I may be substituting the Montrachet for the St. Julien. I think the Montrachet is right next door to where I am now. However it works out, is fine with me. Fun to see so many of them.

a bientot...

Joan

Hi Joan,

Yes, I have our luncheon on my calendar -- I wouldn't miss it! Thank you for making the reservations. Looking forward to it.

That's a great idea about Nathan. I'll be talking to Lauren today and will mention it. She arrives on Thursday evening.

I just made my reservations by email with inter-shuttle. They confirmed almost immediately. (For anyone considering transportation in Paris, I used this service, at Joan's recommendation, last August and they were great--on time, roomy Mercedes, friendly & competent driver, no hassles.)

I'll email you, Joan...

Have a wonderful evening.

a bientot
Grace

Hi Grace,

I will make our l'Obe reservations when there on Sunday.

If Lauren needs Nathan's email address I have it. He might introduce them to places we wouldn't know about. If Lauren is planning to return to Paris it won't hurt to know someone here. I know Nathan plans to stay here. I should go to Les Cocottes tomorrow and see if he shows up...

I used inter-shuttle and he was right there. I am always so grateful, after that not fun trip! Sue was pleased, too. Her flight was half empty. I thought she would go via Chicago. She took a flight from Appleton to Detroit and to CDG. She had a long layover in Detroit. My inter-shuttles have usually been large vans.

a bientot...

Joan

Joan, love the photos of the food/butcher and speciality stores. I am looking forward to seeing for myself come Christmas. In relation to the Cotes du Rhone apartment are the stores close?

Joan & Grace, I also have confirmation with inter-shuttle for roundtrip service. However, I have checked the website and see nothing in relation to tipping. Is it appropriate and if so what is customary?

Thank you and continue having a wonderful time.

liktotravel,

The Cotes du Rhone apt. is on the corner of Bourdonnais and Monttessuy. Your neighbor across the street is Princess Caroline of Monaco. The Royal Apartments have the Monaco crest on each balcony section. Always light on, think she is rarely there. Your corner window has the ET view. Monttessuy has Au Bon Accueil restaurant..very good. You have an excellent boulangerie right on corner across from you..they serve meals, too. You are two blocks from St. Dominique, one block from parc Champs du Mars and ET, a couple blocks to the Seine. All 4 Christian Constant restaurants are a block away from Bourdonnais on St. Dominique. Buses to anyplace in Paris on the corner of St. Dom/Bourdonnais. The 42 bus right outside for you..will take you across Seine, Montaigne with high fashion shops, Rond Point and up to Pl de la Concorde for Tuileries, Rivoli and then on to Madeleine, Opera and Galeries Lafayette area.

When here to see the Christmas decorations, walk across the Seine at Pont Alma(Princess Diana) and up Montaigne and to Rond Point..take your camera. lots to see..and lots of people doing the same thing!!

Pull up a Mappy and take a look..add restaurants etc. to it...do google earth and take a tour of the area....

Pictures from dinner later....

a bientot...
Joan

Joan:

Could you please post a list of all the apartments you've now stayed in?

Also, I'm sure you've explained in the past what your relationship is with PP and how it developed. But I'd love to hear about it.

Thanks,
Jeanne

Jeanne, Try to think of all the pp's that I have stayed in or been in..I will include the ones that I will have been in by end of this trip. Some apts. I have stayed in more than once previously.

My relationship is a very good one, as I most certainly have a fondness for their apartments. After staying in just one of them, I decided that was the way to go, for me. It only took one stay..not something over a period of time. I'm sure they consider me a good guest, too. Not much more to be said about that. Now, you asked about apartments: Grenache, Kir, Meursault, Cotes du Rhone, Pomerol, Richebourg, Cabernet, Champagne, Montrachet, Chardonnay, Chateau LaTour,Chateauneuf and probably some that I have missed. I have seen the Pastis and I will be seeing the Cotes de Provence, for some others.

I will post pics in the morning re an excellent dinner at Violon d'Ingres this evening.

a bientot...

Joan

Thanks, all, for the suggestions regarding accommodations in the 7th! Hoping to get something nailed down soon. Appreciate very much the input!

Audrey

Jeanne,

I did forget the Fleurie and I have a great fondness for the Fleurie, too. Must have forgotten others...

Joan

Joan
I returned to my hotel safely. I forgot that boissy is closed to traffic this week,so it was good to get off at the Crillon.
Thank you for the great company tonite at the Violin,,,The food was DELICIOUS!!
I better have a late breakfast as it will be awhile before i am hungry.

more later












t

Joan,
Does Fleurie have a balcony? I think this might be the main difference (for me) between it and Cabernet. Sounds like you'll be having some delicious meals in the days ahead - Bon apetit! EJ

Hi Joan--Al and I are enjoying your trip. I loved the picture of your breakfast the other day so much that I did a little watercolor and it is dedicated to u--Joan's Paris breakfast--hope you enjoy it,maybe not as much as the real thing.
http://picasaweb.google.com/RobynFrance/JoanSParis#5403756693568743554

RobynFrance- What a wonderful watercolor! Very beautiful work.

wow, RobynFrance, that is fantastique!!! Joan is going to love it...

Merci Roberta and Cristeen--so glad you like it.

Robyn,

How absolutely wonderful!! Thank you so much! I am overwhelmed!

Fondly,

Joan

I just took care of the photos from last night at Violon.

Sue called when she was leaving her hotel. I went downstairs and waited outside for her..not long before her taxi pulled up. We came up to my apartment. I showed her around and she did enjoy my ET view!

We then walked the short way down to Violon. I showed her both Cafe Constant and Les Cocottes as we passed by them. Alexandre greeted us and seated us. We had a glass of champagne to start things off! We did have an excellent meal. Violon is really a great bargain, for the price. It was busy.

Something I will note, from times past. Yes, they have changed from the very formal atmosphere to a more relaxed one. The casualness of some guests is what I find disturbing..for instance, a fellow in rather worn faded jeans with a short sleeve faded gold tee. It was the tee, not the jeans that really looked bad! Do the bargain prices go along with over casual dress? To me, I think going to a nice restaurant also includes dressing nicely. Maybe that is not what the world wants?

It is wet out. I was thinking of the market today..but not in the rain. It may clear later. Will play it by ear.

Florent and Michel will be over later and we will be going to dinner together..an area place of their choosing.

ElsieJune,

Fleurie does not have a balcony. The two apartments are totally different from one another, though. Fleurie is very spacious. The kitchen does not have the granite/marble countertops. If visiting when weather is for balcony sitting it might make the difference.

Here are the pictures from last night:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=abf39643.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Joan,

Thank you for the wealth of information.

From here on in, I will continue to look to you for the weather reports. Coming from Los Angeles anything under 60 is COLD for us. Two years ago we were there in March and it was uncharacteristically cold (the low 30's) and we FROZE no matter how much we layered with heavy clothes. Honestly, I think it was more psychological than anything else, but as you can see, it did not scare us away.

Therefore, off to the mall tomorrow to acquire more warm clothing.

liktotravel,
You are going to find it COLD! A good wool sweater is great. Also you want a good scarf to wrap around your neck and can pull over your face..gloves, too!

The wind can really make the difference to how it feels.

Enjoy..

Joan

joan

the pictures from last nite are great. you really are good at gettng hem out.
i just had a breakfast.I am contemplating going out in the rain. I need to wear aff a few calories.
I am ready to move to hotel buci on the left.
more later

liktotravel,

I think you should go to a store that sells ski clothing and purchase some silk thermal underwear..both tops and bottoms. They take up no space and you would be surprised at the difference they can make. I brought my silk bottms with me for this trip. I may be glad to have them.

a bientot...

Joan

Hi Joan,
For me, those were definitely the best 'foodie' photos yet! The dishes looked delightful - Please, may I ask how much the meal totted up to including wine? (For budgeting purposes) It all looked very expensive I must say!
And, was it a three or two course dinner?
My husband wants to see you all smiling at the camera!?How about it at the GTG?

tod,

Violon has a 49 euro menu...starter, plat and dessert. Hard to beat for the quality received. We had a glass of champagne,a glass of wine and a bottle of water. 78 euros each.

I will do my best for our GTG. We will gather first at my apartment and then on to Petite Sud Ouest. I will get all to say cheese!!

** For those who will be in Paris for Christmas**

I just talked with the Ritz Bar Vendome. They will be serving both Xmas Eve and Xmas Day. I do enjoy the Bar Vendome. A cozy atmosphere. I would go there if I were here! They are to send me the menu..it should have prices for you..I will also be there tomorrow and can find out more if necessary. I will post the information when I receive it!!

a bientot...

Joan

** Here is the Ritz Bar Vendome for Christmas Eve **

Le Ritz Paris
vous souhaite un Joyeux Noël
The Ritz Paris wishes you
a Happy Christmas
Menu
Foie gras aux saveurs de Noël cuit dans un vin chaud,
marmelade d’agrumes
Christmas foie gras prepared in a mulled wine,
citrus fruit marmalade
55 €

Dinde contisée à la truffe
légumes d’hiver cuits au jus, cuisse à la feuille d’or
Turkey with truffle,
winter vegetables stew and gold leaves
78 €

Poire pochée à la cardamome,
crème légère au chocolat et glace caramel
Poached pears with cardamom,
chocolat lightly mousse and toffee ice cream
23 €
Prix nets – Net prices
Décembre 2009

RESERVATIONS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED

Joan

The weather..it is breezy out, but the overnight/early morning rain ended. It is decent temperature wise,which is good, with the wind. It seems to be clouding up, so maybe more rain coming.

I went over to Les Cocottes for lunch..here are the pictures:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=92104bcb.pbw

How does one say "too rich for my blood" in French! The menu looks scrumptious though!

Hi Joan,

I've been remiss in not posting yet, but just wanted to say I am really enjoying this thread. Thank you for taking the time to share your days and your meals with us, it's so generous of you to take the time out of your trip to feed our Paris obsessions! So many of us are living vicariously through you with this thread, you should probably be charging us a commission, LOL.

Looking forward to the many instatllments to come.

Jo (who just booked her apartment and flight for next September!! Daniel Rose better be up and running in his new place in the 1st by then, lol!)

of course, I meant installments. Have to stop typing so fast and checking my posts before hitting enter!

Jo

Gracejoan3,

Enjoying your trip report. We will be traveling for the first time to Paris arriving on a Friday in June and I posted another thread asking about itineraries for the first day of arrival. We will be staying near the Louvre area. Do you recommend a walking tour of the Marais, or is it advisable to go to the Louvre or Orsay on that first day? Most people suggest not going to a major museum due to jet lag. We arrive in the morning and not sure how long it will take to clear customs, get luggage and arrive at hotel nor how tired we will feel. I welcome more suggestions and recommendations. Thanks.

What fun we had last night!

Florent and Michel rang my buzzer about 8:15. I showed them around the apartment. We visited over a glass of wine for some time and then were off.

They had done nothing about reservations. We looked in to Le Florimond and it looked like there might be a spot for us..since I had not been to the Auberge Bressane, we decided to check it out. They were full. We walked back to Le Florimond and it looked like someone had taken the spot. We went inside and Laurent said he just couldn't accommodate us. I said Pasco was just around the corner. It seemed that someone had cancelled and we were lucky and got 'their' nice round table near the window. This place has generous spacing with their tables...not these jammed right up to the next table! Florent pointed out, that you pay for that. He also noted that they were all locals and he noted "7th" locals!

Florent and Michel have been acquiring finer tastes in wine and are now enjoying some of the 'better' bordeaux wines..also more expensive! They ordered a lovely bottle of wine and we then began looking at the menu. They did not prefer the set menu...not enough choices for them...we selected from the a la carte menu..Florent and I had the same thoughts and Michel had some great looking items. What appears to be a soup, was foie gras, chinese mushrooms and various items..excellent...our main does not look that great in the picture, but was really special...we also had the same dessert..Michel had some ice cream and a big chocolate something! We were the last to leave. We walked down to where Florent's car was parked, near his Flirt The and the dropped me off at my apt. I arrived home a few strokes before midnight! They are two very charming people. We had a great evening. They will be joining me at Violon before I leave. They have not dined there.

Here are the photos:
http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=0685cd52.pbw

ParisJo,

Now you can begin the rest of your trip planning. Have fun with it.

europeannovice,

Everyone seems to handle arrival day differently. It is just whatever seems to work best for each.

Fo me, I make it an easy day. I arrive in the morning after an overnight flight, delighted to see my driver with my name on the sign. Arrive at my apt. and get settled with greeter, and depending the time..either do some unpacking or if short on time I just head over to Les Cocottes for lunch. I have a simple afternoon unpacking, doing some local shopping in the neaarby spots. I have an early dinner, glass of wine and turn in early. Next morning I am on Paris time!

I, personally, would not plan the Louvre for arrival day. Wander about your area, do some local shopping, find a good spot for dinner and go from there. Enjoy your planning!

I am meeting Sue in lobby of the Crillon at 11:25. I already know that it will be a great day. I hope that Sue enjoys it too!

It looks a bit wet outside. Not raining now. No wind. Partial clouds..too early to know what it is going to do....

a bientot....

Joan

europenovice:
I second joan's advice. Do not plan to do any museums that first day. You want to be outside (helps jet lag). Walking is a great way to get your land legs back.

Spend that day getting your bearings. Walk over to the river, get to know "your" neighborhood, get in your head where landmarks are in relation to your place. Grab a sidewalk crepe at the first opportunity!

Plan an early dinner. Nothing too heavy or fancy. Keep everything kind of low key and spontaneous. No fixed schedule or rushing to meet a "deadline". That's what works for me to get me relaxed, tired, and ready for a good night's sleep.

europenovice,

I agree as well. Explore the area, spend alot of time outdoors. Usually on my first day, I pick up a bunch of food/desserts and have a picnic under the Eiffel Tower. It allows me to settle in and plan my day...

Joan, sounds like you had a wonderful evening! Can't wait to hear about your brunch today, that is always a highlight. I wonder if that gentleman will still be there...

-Roberta

A nice day. I walked across the street to take the 42 bus and found out that some buses were not running for part of the day. I walked down to Ecole Militaire and took the Metro to Concorde and the Crillon. I looked in the boutique and then sat down to wait for Sue. She arrived a few minutes later. We sat and chatted about what we had done the night before. We then walked down to the l'Obe and were nicely greeted by Frederic and seated at my 'regular' table.

We began with a glass of Champagne and then I ordered the special for the day and Sue ordered a la carte. We had a long and most enjoyable lunch. I think Sue did enjoy her first experience at l'Obe. We then leisurely walked down Rivoli and up Castiglione to the Ritz Hotel and the Bar Vendome. We had a nice table and and ordered drinks and had a nice long visit, solving all the problems of the world! Think it will take longer than that!

We then walked back to Rivoli and she went in one direction and I in the other. I took the 42 bus 'home' and got here just before dark.

A nice day and a nice visit with a new travel friend!

Here are some pictures of our afternoon:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=64363351.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Hi Joan,
Thank you once again for those absolutely wonderful photos of your special lunch! And thank you for sending such a lovely photo of you two gals! I called my DH to come and take a peek at the lady who has such tremendous fun in Paris not once, but twice a year!
I appreciate you giving me the cost of your meal the other night at Violon.

JOAN

YOUR PICTURES TURNED OUT GREAT. THAT FOOD LOOKS AS GOOD AS IT TASTES!!
I STOPPED ON THE WAY HOME TO GET SOME WATER AND ACOKE LIGHT. I WALKED ACROSS THE STREET FORM MY HOTEL AND PICKED UP A BOTTLE OF 2005 BORDEAUX FROM THE PAULIC[SP?] REGION. HE SAID THAT WAS THE TOP REGION. I TOLD HIM MY FRIEND HAD TOLD ME THAT TODAY. I WILL TAKE IT HOME FOR HUSBAND. I ,THEN, WALKED OVER TO AMORINA FOR A CAFE ICE CREAM. IT WAS THE PETIT CUP. WHAT A HIGH CALORIE DAY. FUN ONCE IN AWHILE. ALSO, I STOPPED AND GOT A METRO MAP AND A BUS MAP. ALSO BOUGHT THE SAME PARIS 3 PLAN BOOK. THANK U FOR THE GREAT COMPANY TODAY. IT WAS GREAT TO BREAK BREAD WIH YOU.
TOMORROW IS MY LAST DAY SO AM PLANNING HOW TO USE MY TIME WISELY.
THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT ADVICE. IT WAS A GREAT DAY OF VISITING AND SOLVING THE WORLD PROBLEMS.

SUE

Just checking in to get my weekly Paris fix -- what wonderful pictures! So enjoying following along on your visit to Paris, Joan.

it looks like a wonderful time in Paris for Joan and Sue!

Thanks everyone for the advice. The only thing is that we will only have 4 days including arrival day for our first trip to Paris and of course we want to see as much as we can in the little time we have. I know you can spend days in the Louvre and still not see everything but how much time realistically should I figure on for the Orsay and Rodin museums? I also heard great things about the Carnavlaet and Cluny but I will have to pick and choose and not sure which ones are not to be missed.

Joan,
Your trip report is great!

You can do d'Orsay, Rodin and Invalides in the same area. Some spend more time than others at d'Orsay.

I think if you look online at the Louvre website you will find what they call an Introductory tour that last less than two hours. Might be just what you are looking for timewise. l'Orangerie is lovely..especially if you are a Monet fan.

How about things other than museums?

a bientot...

Joan

Here is the Louvre Intrductory tour information:

http://www.louvre.fr/llv/activite/detail_evenement.jsp?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673238143&CURRENT_LLV_ACTIVITE%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673238143&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=9852723696500927&bmLocale=en

Here, I think I have it in a tinyurl for you:

http://tinyurl.com/yfavzxy

Sue,

Would you like to meet me at the Le Meurice Bar about 2:00 today for their club sandwich or something else??

I did send you an email, too..not sure where best to catch you.

I am about to go out for breakfast..

Joan

Thanks again. As you can tell we like museums. Are Carnavalet and Cluny great to see as well? Not sure though with our limited time if we will get there.

We also want to see the Eiffel tower of course, the Arc de triomphe and Notre Dame. My son wants to climb the towers at notre dame. We thought about taking walking tours of the Marais and the Latin Quarter so someone can explain to us about the buildings we are viewing. Just not sure what we can accomplish in just four days which includes the arrival day.

I feel like I walked a zillion miles today!! I did rue St. Honore and a bit of Rivoli.

Early morning I went to another boulangerie that I like, across from Thoumieux..so walked a bit for that.

Took the metro in because I want to re-load my navigo.

I arrived at Le Meurice a bit early and did not know if Sue wold be meeting me or not. I had spoken with the concierge earlier and he wanted me to see some of the newly renovated rooms..why not. I say a room and a suite on 5th floor with Tuiieries view. I was the escorted to the bar.

I ordered a glass of wine and waited a bit to see if Sue was going to make it. Don't think she got my message. I ordered a really super lunch..actually two starters: coddle egg, with pumkin flavored cream....it was really good..and hearts of romaine salad, with shavings of sun-dried tomatoe and parmesan. I then had some green tea. It is a pleasant bar area. I like it better than their renovated other area..liked it better before.

I then walked down to the Crillon where the 42 bus stops and delivers me across street from my apartment.

Here are some photos for the day:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=d19a3b88.pbw

a bientot,

Joan

I left out one picture:
http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=d19a3b88.pbw

Joan...

I'm still with you, just catching up since I was in New Orleans for a few days, eating my way through that city!

You are a lady after my own heart...your meals look mouthwatering!

I'll be in Paris in May, and hoping we can connect then when you are there but will leave those arrangements for another time...continue with the lovely posts from this trip!

joan

your lunch pictures are great. i now know what a great lunch i missed!!

same time next yr.

LowCountryIslander,

You live near Hilton Head? Do you know the Frankie Bones restaurant there?

Joan

I have one more question for all of you folks. Husband wants to take the Roisybus from airport because we will have travel pass that we could use. It will drop off at opera. Is there a taxi stand near the opera house in case mother in law can't walk with the luggage to the louvre area? Are we better off taking a car service from the airport and if so which one is reliable? How much would it cost? Thanks for all the info so far.

europenovice:

Given your short schedule, you could devote the first day to Notre Dame and strolling around Ile St. Louis and Ile de la Cite (where ND is located). If you're up to it, you could do the Seine cruise at sunset.

As for time at each museum, there can be lots of variables...especially time in line and getting through security. Once inside, you can do D'Orsay in 2 1/2 hours. Rodin, probably an hour. This won't allow for a comprehensive visits, but with so little time, you'll hit the highlights. I would devote one morning to the Louvre. Know in advance what you want to see. And study the maps; it's HUGE.

I'll offer one other suggestion, based on my mistakes on my first visit: accept that you can't see everything and leave time for just wandering and soaking up the ambience. My favorite memories of Paris have nothing to do with museums or other landmarks. More like a particularly lovely window display in a little shop. Or the Vogue wedding dress photo shoot we happened upon when crossing Pont Alexander III. Leave time for those spontaneous moments.

europeannovice,

paris@shuttle-inter.com is a service that I have used for several years with excellent service..you will read that sueb08 has just used them..and will be departing with them in the morning..gradmere has recently used them, too. The regular rate for 3 is 55 euros..if you make a round trip reservation and mentiond joan grace, it seems that they will give you a 5 euros discount on the return.

This is a PRIVATE service, not shared, you do not have to call them upon arrival..they will be waiting with your name on a sign as you exit wecurity. It is cash, no credit card. The good thing about a fee for service is if heavy traffic, accident or something, you do not have a meter running!!

I am always grateful to see them upon exiting with my luggage..they take it and we are off.

I have to agree with Jeanne re not over planning. Take the time to stop and smell the roses! You will enjoy it more that way, rather than trying to jam every minute with something!

a bientot...

Joan

Joan...

Yes, I am well acquainted with Frankie Bones here and moreso their one year old winebar called WiseGuys, where I go weekly for an evening with a friend where we enjoy their terrific small plates (tapas) the chef there is very inventive!

I notice several months ago you had a mini GTG at the Frankie Bones in Asheville, that was the first time I realized they had a branch there!

LCI,

Frankie Bones opened in Asheville a couple years ago (might be longer)Several of them came to Asheville to operate it. If you go to FB in HH, ask for Rob (an owner)and tell him that you know me. He comes to the Asheville location regularly and stays for several weeks at a time...there are 4 owners..Rob is one. It is near me and I am a regular custome..they all know me well and are actually following on this thread.

I wll have to ask Rob about WiseGuys!!

Do you ever get to Asheville??

Joan

It's been great keeping the Paris "vibe" alive through your selection of photos.

TPAYT

I just looked..you are from Wisconsin...Sue who has been joining me and who is leaving is from near Green Bay..did you know that?

Glad you are enjoying the photos..

a bientot..

Joan

Joan...

I don't get up to Asheville often. The last (and first) time I was there was probably 6 or 7 years ago during the Thanksgiving holiday...the Biltmore Estate is magical that time of year! My mom has never been and I keep mentioning we need to make a trip up to explore more of what Asheville has to offer!

LCI
Take my email address down and if you plan a trip to Asheville we will have to get together..maybe get Betty and Robyn, too. They were the two referred to in our mini GTG. Robyn is also the one who did the great water color from the breakfast photo, above someplace.

Joan

Joan...

You are so kind. I will definitely let you know if/when I intend to come to Asheville...I have a feeling I may find you in Paris first!

Robyn's water color was fantastic!

Well, I am cooking today! You know what that means..I went to Davoli this morning:http://www.davoli-paris.fr/crbst_6_en.html

I bought the Tomatoe farcie and the Veloute de Champignons. I will pick up some bread and have ssome wine and voila..I cooked! Want to join me?

Look at the weeks menu on their site..it shows it day by day!!

I screwed up the washer last evening, somehow.I have used this small dual one previously here and at the Meurdsault, so was not like I didn't understand it! Called PP and they said they would take care of it..I did not have to be here. When I returned from breakfast and Davoli the washer was fixed and my clothes were washing! They are on top of everything! I know, I keep praising them, but how can I not?

Grey out and had drizzled earlier and stopped while I was out and a little started again just as I reached 'home'.....

I will take some pictures of my 'cooking' later. I guess I just put them in the convection oven for a bit?

a bientot...

Joan

Yes, tomates farçies are easy to heat up -- but make sure they stay long enough so that the center is not cold.

Yum! If I'm not mistaken that is the same shop/delicatesen featured in my EyeWitness guide. When we passed by the shop some years ago I immediately recognised the elderly gent behind the counter and showed him the photo in my guide - he nodded in acknowledgement!

Hope your lunch/dinner was divine. What was in the 'farcie' part of the tomatoes? Tuna?

Just chatted with Gina live! Never done that....was incredible!

Hope the weather is kind tomorrow.......

Hi tod....yes it was good. I have a picture:

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/000_0001-26.jpg

I'm not sure of the stuffing, but it must have been something that walked on four legs! t was very good, as was the soup. I bought some good bread across the street and had a great meal.

Yes, the chat is fun. I have done it a few times with Gina and with others.

Temperatures are staying relatively mild..rather grey out.

a bientot...

Joan

The stuffing is ground pork + onion + spices.

And in fact, I'm making all that from scratch tonight!

Thank you kerouac..I thought it might be pork. Did I give you the idea for it tonight?

Davoli is great to have in the neighborhood.

a bientot..

Joan

Hi Joan, could you kindly check for us if the Catacombs have been reopened? Thanks very much!

All I can find is that it is closed indefinitely! I al going for a walk that way and will see what I can find out for you..if there is any other news.

Joan

Received a message from Sue..she finally arrived home. Her reeturn was via Amsterdam. She said she would never do that again!

She said shuttle Inter promptly picked her up at 7. She was glad she had them as the taxis went on strike yesterday. They made a traffic mess blocking lanes all over. A mess around the airport! Maybe another good reason to add to the list of why we use them.

a bientot,

Joan

Hi, Joan!
You're up early in Paris, and I am still up here in Pgh.!

Just to chime in about Shuttle-Inter: we used them for the RT to and from CDG again in Oct., and our rush hour Monday morning trip into Paris took 1.5 hrs. I can't imagine what the taxi fee would have been for that length of time. I was really glad we had a locked in fare of 55 euro.

Have another fun day in Paris!

Hi Sue,
Time for you to go to bed!

Sue had one long trip home. She said going via Amsterdam is a definite no, no!

The strking taxi drivers made a mess all around the airport and traffic in general. She was so glad to have shuttle inter.

I can't imagine what your taxi charge would have been for 1.5 hrs!

I don't know about taxis today. I don't use them!

a bientot...

Joan

Here's what Sue had to say about her departure to airport:

Hi Joan

Just a short note to let you know the shuttle was there exactly at 7 to pick me up. they are great. it was a weird day as the taxis went on strike today some time// it is confusing so i did not ask much. many,many police cars at the airport . some taxis were dring at 3 miles per hour to slow traffic up and make it difficult to navigate.

***** ****** ***** *****

Spring Followers:

I was by there today and they have a little boutique down the street. I went there. Daniel not in today..but..tomorrow evening a wine tasting. I will be there, and have made dining reservations at Au Gourmand..a favorite spot..for after.

Opening date of new Spring..probably late March!!!

I will be leaving 12/14, but returning 1/25 and will be here til 3/4, probably. I can check on it at that time and perhaps make some reservations for some of you!!

I am also previewing the Cote de Provence this weekend for those interested in that!!

Off to lunch at Petite Sud Ouest.

a bientot......

Joan

Hi Joan,

Thanks for the Spring update. We don't go until September 2010 so I'm hoping Daniel is well up and running by then. I can't wait to see his new place!

I'm so happy you are having such a wonderful trip. Your generous postings are keeping so many of us going, lol. Thank you again for taking time out of your vacation to keep us updated. We are all loving it!

Jo

I don't know what your plans are for lunch today, but I would strongly recommend what I had

Brouillade aux truffes
(scrambled eggs with black truffles)

Salade de Chevre Chaud
(salade with hot goat cheese)

Verre de Cahors
(Cahors wine)

Cafe Creme

I ate the whole thing, too!!

You see the scrambled eggs with black truffes often..they vary a bit in preparation. This salad is excellent. The hot goat chees in on a slice of toasted bread, excellent dressing..a really good combination.

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=7be2ba71.pbw

Enjoy your lunch....

a bientot...

Joan

To clarify: sueb08 and I are two different "Sues".

Yes, Sue, I was thinking of that when I posted that Sue just left and arrived home safely.

Joan

Thank you kerouac..I thought it might be pork. Did I give you the idea for it tonight?

Actually, I had stuffed tomatoes on my agenda for this week, but your delightful photo moved them up in the queue. On top of that, I bought a yellow bell pepper and stuffed it too.

kerouac,

I bet the yellow bell pepper was good, too.

I had a great meal at au Petite Sud Ouest today..the Bourdonnais location..just down the street from me. Have you ever tried it?

Joan

I fear that my restaurant budget rarely ventures beyond 20€ per person, so I don't think we're playing in the same league.

kerouac,

Just looked at the cost of my lunch.

salade de chevre chaud 7.90
verre de cahors 4.50
brouillade aux truffes 17.60 truffes are expensive things

The salade was certainly a good buy!!

Joan

Excellent value!

Unfortunately I often need more wine that just a glass.

kerouac,

With the salade you have room in your budget for more wine!!

tod..I bet you would like that salade, too!

Joan

You are very kind, gracejoan.

Hello again, Joan! Came across this new place, found it on parisbreakfast.com. It's on Rue du Bac, looks tasty.

http://www.lapatisseriedesreves.com/

I don't think SueB08 will mind my posting her email to me after arriving home:

RE: back home safely
Wed, November 18, 2009 4:00:54 PMFrom: sue brueckner


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Joan

I wish I were there to go to the wine tasting with you!!That is one thing that i enjoy!! Do they have them often? You will have to post about it.

Of course, I was up and raring to go about 4:15 this am. I hate having these sleep issues.

Yes, I was very thankful not to have to depend on taxis. I never will do anything EXCEPT shuttle inter. He said they only have about 9 drivers. I told him I was a friend of yours. He did know you!! He said "Madame Joan is here now". I told him I had dinner with you.

I have one suitcase unpacked and now will work on another. I want to get back to normal soon. Am having my bridge club here tomorrow nite.

I will continue to follow you.

Sue

We had a good time together..perhaps we will be here at the same time again...

a bientot....

Joan

Yes indeed Joan - that salad is just up my street! And I am delighted at the 7.90euro tag! I've put Petit Sud Ouest on my list of eateries for next trip in July.

Boy, am I glad Sue mentioned the flight via Amsterdam! Not only was I looking at a flight from Paris CDG via Amsterdam to Calgary, I thought it was the best option. She probably did too!
Luckily my cousin in Canada has put me in contact with a wide awake travel agent and she has got us possible flights direct,
repeat, direct from CDG-Calgary return! This is with AIR TRANSAT, a companion charter airline with Air Canada.
His sister used them to the UK and says they're fine.
Maybe someone else has a word about Air Transat?

Joan thanks once again for the good info on the restaurants and shops.
You may be a bit chilly which is expected for Paris this time of year but we are FREEZING! Even had a snowfall on the higher ground. This is Summer in South Africa!!
Tod

tod,
Petit Sud Ouest has a lot of good things on the menu at very good prices, too! I think you will like the place, too.

Glad you got something from Sue's via Amsterdam trip! Sounds like you have something much better..direct CDG-Calgary is great!

Looking forward to 'Spring' wine tasting tonight and then meeting Florent and Michel at Au Gourmand. hould be a fun evening, with good food.

Bright sunshine and blue skies today..super weather!!

a bientot...

Joan

Here is the 'Spring' Event for the evening:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_EZdL2uRXe3U/SvRBF9vcwqI/AAAAAAAAAU4/eWY2yh61HgM/s1600-h/spring_ok_2.jpg

Very cool, Joan, can't wait to hear about the wine tasting. Say hi to Daniel for us and tell him we will see him in September! (don't know if you remember, but you graciously got us our cooking class with Daniel and Marie Aude in May, for which we will be eternally grateful to you!)

Tod, we have booked with Air Transat for our trip next fall. I've never used them, but friends of ours just did in September and said everything was just fine. I like that they land at Terminal 3, very small, fast and efficient both going in and leaving. Security lines are much shorter than at Terminal 2 (we used Zoom twice before they went bellyup and landed at #3). We got a great deal for next fall, $647 each direct from Montreal, taxes in. More money to spend on meals in Paris!!

Jo

Jo

I'm hoping that we will get a preview of what Spring is going to look like. When I peeked in the other day it was a disaster and you could tell nothing. I think he has really had a hard time with building codes/restrictions, etc. Maybe those are all worked out now and he can move forward!

Joan

Walked over to Cafe Constant for Dejeuner...had a starter only...good seafood salad with potatoes. All I wanted.

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=a255fe5b.pbw

Nice weather. I called Spring Boutique to tell them that I would be there and that I had posted it on Fodor's. I was told that they were expecting a crowd!

a bientot...

Joan

Just asrrived home from dinner at Au Gourmand after going to the "Spring' Boutique wine tasing. Michel and Florent joined me for dinner. They were delighted with Au Gourmand. Think I have some good pics..even the flaming foie gras!

I arrived at Spring early..the place was mobbed..all out in the street! I made my way inside and saw Daniel way back someplace..he recognized me right away and he and Marie both remember Jo and Den from the cooking class. I did give him your hellos.

He says things are now on schedule and he will be opening late March! He really looked good!

I have some good pictures from tonight. I will get them online for all tomorrow. We had a great time this evening.

a bientot...

Joan

Thanks for the update, Joan, can't wait for the pictures!

Jo

Bonjour,

A beautiful morning in Paris! Weather is unbelievable! Hope it last sfor those still on their way!

Last evening was something else. Florent and Michel thought Au Gourmand to be wonderful food, from beginning to end..quite special!

The Spring Boutique wine tasting was mobbed. Glad to hear that all is now on schedule. When I am here in Feb. I will get to see something closer to looking like something!

Here are pics from last night..I think you can see the flames on the foie gras if you look closely. The dessert had some banana filling inside, too. Enjoy....
http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=d75322a1.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Forgot...the wild boar photo..the white things..popcorn!

Great photos, Joan. Au Gourmand looks amazing! Will definitely go on my list. Wondering if those are two glasses of milk in the first Au Gourmand photo?
Love your reports!
Pam

Pam...no, not milk..Florent said it was from something like a root type thing..it was good.

Au Gourmand is a good spot..nice, friendly people, too.

Joan

Joan,

Your usual activities are a treat to all your followers! What a wonderful morning to see all the beautiful food. I also see that the weather in Paris has been mild - more in line with San Francisco and New York..........

Keep them coming and of course, MERCI..........

bisous,

Lilia

Gracejoan, you are a picture-posting master! (mistress?)

hi Joan. can we rent an apartment in Paris for only 5 nights? or are they all require one week stays?

summagold

I think 5 nights will fly..that is usually the minimum!


Kerouac,

I barely know what I am doing with the pictures!

Joan

Au Gourmand pix are lucious. Just talked with a new friend who is back from her first trip to Paris. She went immediately to Whole Foods to talk to the cheese folks! She has the "sighs" for Paris. Just like your photos are giving me!

You like to try new places, but when you can eat like this, it is hard not to want to go back..like the Constants..but the added thing for the Constants, for me, is that they are so nearby.

When walking from the Spring Boutique to Au Gourmand last night I saw an Italian restaurant, Fellini, on l'Arbre-Sec (same street as the boutique. I just looked in Zagat to see if it was in there..I was surprised that it was. Good things said.I may give it a try! Also a 15th location..guess that would be closer to me.

a bientot..

Joan

joan, from your pics, looks like you really know how to pic 'em. can you suggest a restaurant for our NYE dinner? i guess not much would be open that evening, methinks...

Joan

I loved your pictures. Au Gourmand looks like I should put it on my list. I was looking at the Dec. issue of the Food and Wine magazine . In the article that the editor writes she had a list of 3 must do restaurants. Two are in London and the third was L"Obe in Paris. I loved that restaurant and enjoyed Frederick. I thought that was interesting!! I am already thinking of my next trip to Paris and i am barley unpacked.

Sue

summagold,

The Constant restaurants will be open for New Year's Eve. Many places open that night..from biggies on down. Should be festive.

sueb08

That's interesting about l'Obe!!..that's what we all do..start planning the next trip!!

a bientot..

Joan

Bonjour...

It is so warm, you can't believe it..

Went for breakfast and to Davoli on rue cler. Bought chou farcie and potatoe dauphinois!

There is a brocante on rue cler and surrounding streets today and tomorrow. I found porcelain knob heaven..only 4 euros each! I carry very little cash with me..use my CapOne..had to bring my Davooli purchases home and pick up some cash. Meeting Florent cown that way for cafe soon and then will buy my knobs!! Voila...

talk to you later..maybe will take some pics of my knobs!!

a bientot..

Joan

Sueb08- Would you mind giving me the reason for "Never again via Amsterdam"? Also - what airline?
Sorry Joan, this could mean a final decision for me!

tod,

I think Sue flew AF direct from Detroit and then back via Amsterdam. The problem in Amsterdam seemed to be re her connecting flight at some far off departure area that was confusing for her to understand..she said she was very stressed by the ordeal and would not carre to go that way again...she may get back on and explain more to you..but this is the what I have....

Joan

Bonjour....

My porcelain knobs..not sure where they will be going, but they will find spots...

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=f948dd5a.pbw

a bientot....

Joan

Joan, one more question! do you have another apt recommendation besides ParisPerfect apts? unfortunately they only have one availbe, the Grenache, which is available December 26-January 2 (7 nights; renting for €345/night). Beyond our budget and not really our dates in Paris. Thanks in advance!

summagold

None that I am familiar with...I am looking a bit for you..here is one that seems available for NYE time period:
http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p428953#rates-bar

I will look for more

summagold

Here is another one

http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p433464#calendar-bar

Hi Joan,
Thanks for clearing that up. I thought it was to do with the airline itself but no matter, I put a message on the FLIGHTS board and got an extremely useful tip about searching for a flight through KAYAK. Well would you believe it, the same flights came up with Transat(direct) but at $3188 for 2 - a saving of $2,780 than through the Travel Agent. It's for Club Class which I think we can live with.

Your porcelain knobs are sooooooo beautiful! Reminds me of the colours in the tile house numbers in BHV that everyone talked about on your last trip. We went and got two lots but ashamed to say, have not put them up!
Well done with the knobs!

tod

That is a big savings!! Can do a lot with that!

They had so many knobs at the brocante. I did buy some knobs at BHV on last trip. I have them installed. I may be changing some of them. They had tons of these. I think 4 euros is a good buy, don't you?

I thought you needed the Amsterdam info quickly..it had nothing to do with the airlines, it seems..just not very convenient for her.

I am fixing my purchases from Davoli now....

a bientot...

Joan

Hi Joan,

Wanted to say thanks for taking the time to post your daily adventures and your pics! I was there in May and stayed at 165 rue de Grenelle (which I have since learned that she sold her apartment - sigh) and I wondered if you ever ate at 7eme Sud at 159 rue de Grenelle? I had the best eggplant lasagne there!

Madonna

Joan thanks so much! I just emailed them and hope to get a response about their rates and availability. Can you also recommend a hotel or apt close to Oberkampf/Placa de la Bastille area? We wanted to stay close to nightlife. I was told that was a "happening" place. Do you think it is seedy during the day? And can we walk there from Arc de Triomphe? I ask this because we think we want to be among the millions celebrating NYE by Arc de Triomphe, and methinks the metro in Paris is not 24/7.

Madonna,

No, I have not eaten there..sounds good, I will have to give it a try...so many places!!!

Joan

Joan, i just got an email from Homeaway. Alas, they only offer 7 night minimums during the holidays.

Love those knobs!

I cooked..thanks to Davoli!!Delicious, I must say.

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=8e96013c.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Summagold,

Both places for a week, only? I don't have a lot of my apt. sites with me. You might check VRBO, though..and someone else might be of some help...give us the dates to work with and we will see what we can do. What do you need..studio..1 bedroom..reasonable?


Joan

summagold, here is the link to the Paris apartment thread: http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/paris-apartment-thread.cfm

Terrific report, as usual, Joan. Thanks!

Hi, a studio will be sufficient. Just hubby and I. December 27-Jan 1. 5 nights. I guess we can stay 7 nights if we have to, but we definitely have to be checked out by Jan 1, as thats our flight departure date. we can take day trips out to Dijon and Strasbourg from Paris instead of staying the night there. Thanks sooo much for your help!

cw,

Don't know why I didn't think of the Fodor's thread....I do think between Christmas and New Year's it is filling up and prices are higher, too....

Joan

summagold

this place has a bunch of studios..ask if any available for your time

http://studio.provaction.com/parisrentals_studios.php

Summagold,

www.parisbestlodge,com has some nice studios and has good reviews on this board, but they are popular apartments and may be filled.

On www.parissweethome.com you can search by date. I have no experience with them, and they seem to represent individual owners.

Joan--you can't remember everything! But I'm happy you're remembering to post your lovely food photos.

Hi Joan! i will look at this, looks very promising! one question, do they all require 500 euro deposit? do they put a hold on a credit card or do they require a money transfer before our arrival? this will be our first time ever renting any apt, we usually go to hotels.., so any info is very very helpful! merci beaucoup!

Joan, you're torturing me with that photo of your meal today! It looks scrumptious!

Also, you were right, those knobs are beautiful and such a good deal! I definitely am interested in them. I'll "talk" to you after you get more information.

Gina

ok i sent several emails. hopefully i can get a response soon. i think it is evening there Joan? whats for dinner?

cw, thanks to you as well! this thread is sooo helful. i have sent like a million emails to apts. hopefully i can find something affordable.

Good luck! You may have to wait until Monday to hear about some apartments.

Both times that we've rented, the agencies have accepted the deposit through our credit card so no waiting for refunds. That was through Paris Vacation Rentals and Parisian Flat.

All I can say is Thank You!
Sure brightened up my day, looking at the food and enjoying your trip. Thought I was going to go back to Rome, now
maybe back to Paris.

summagold

They all have their own way of doing the security deposit..some just have your CC # if needed, others want a check and they return when you leave,,some want cash..all different..You have picked some difficult dates to find availability this late...something may turn up..you get a lot of helpers on the forum!!

I had a late breakfast and an early dinner with the Davoli items...

Joan

Summagold - You asked about a hotel or an apartment close to Bastille. Well, we found this darling little studio right in Bastille from another post right here on Fodors and have reserved a seven night stay in August.
It may suit your needs? The owners are really nice to deal with.
http://www.vrbo.com/103254

Deary me - Looks like it's booked!Sorry!

hi Tod, great website! I just sent about 20 apt inquiries from that site. hopefully one of them will be good.

How many minutes walk from Alesia metro stop to the River Seine and the heart of Latin Quarter? There is one apt that is available for our dates.

Looks like a long walk! I will let others that may know the area better answer. Looks like a simple metro to take you into the 6th though. A nice apt? You might want to show it for someone who might be familiar with it..

Joan

summagold

A cancellation..maybe you can grab this one!!!

http://www.vrbo.com/61185

Joan

Summagold
this one shows available
http://www.vrbo.com/102516

another
http://www.vrbo.com/214329

another
http://www.vrbo.com/45955

another
http://www.vrbo.com/171594

another
http://www.vrbo.com/251557

Some of the calendars needed updating, so may not be correct.

Thank you again! I emailed 171594 too! Joan, Im so sorry to hijack your thread for my apt hunting. Please excuse me. I can probably take it from here. But I do value your opinion and enjoy your daily posts and pictures!

summagold,

I hope you find something. Let us know!

a bientot..

Joan

Hi Joan,

I'm in Paris now and saw brocante on rue Cler yesterday. I love the knobs! My plan is to look deeper at the items today. Just in a quick glance as we were walking to Cafe du Marche, I saw some interesting items.

TR

TravelRibbon,

I am about to leave my apt. now and walk down to Davoli and to the brocante. I am going to try to find out how the knob lady can be contacted..if local etc...others have emailed me asking me to find out..see you at the brocante...

Joan

Question about the knobs: are they vintage or new? Funny how many people are interested in them. They would go really well with my kitchen tiles. Sorry I missed that brocante.

***** ******* ******* *****

Preview of Cote de Provence for those who asked me to do so!

It is precious. I would not hesitate to stay there. It is light, bright, cheerful in every way. Enry way and small courtyard are very nice. You have no other apt. facing yours.

There are mini, mini blinds on the windows..during day you cannot see in fom outside..the night with lights would be opposite..there are the small folding metal shutters that can be closed and still ligh can come in. Nice bath/shower/washer. Cute kitchen and counter area.

Re: dining. The table is not coffee table height..it is end table height, which does make quite a difference. It does seem to fit well for the space and I don't think you would have the feeling of eating off a coffee table!

For a studio and the price, I think it is really great. As I said, I would not hesitate to stay there...and I can be fussy!

I picked up some great items from Davoli but think I will save them for tomorrow and go to La Taverna for lunch. They are open for dejeuner on dimanche.

Knobs...she opened late. She speaks less english than I speak french..that is a bad situation, believe me! She is local. I have her phone number. She goes to brocantes all the time. She gave me the schedule..I will have Florent decipher it all for me and I can even have him call her! My own translator..I will also have Betty here as of the 4th..good job for her..my own French tutor...she will most likely think that I am hopeless..as Lilia did!

Nikki: not totally sure..parts look old, but how can she have so many?? They are cute, cute cute...all colors etc...you could change your knobs for the season of the year!!

Off to La Taverna for dejeuner..will take some pictures...

a bientot...

Joan

Definitely cooler today and windy. I have now just returned from La Taverna. Alittle storm just passed by..windy with some showers. The sun is now returning. LA tAVERNA IS open on Dimanche for dejeuner, but closed in the evening.

They were very busy..all French..I was the token American!

Very good..here are the pictures:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=d2ef000d.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Ah, your dejeuner at La Taverna looks spectacular! What type of fish was it?
The knobs remind me those we saw at a market in Pisa and a shop in Florence a few years ago. I have always regretted not buying them then and redecorating my kitchen around them. I will keep this in mind for our upcoming trip in Jan.

Love the knobs!

poconolady,

It was sea bass.

I have her info. I will return the end of Jan, too.

Joan

Bonjour, Joan!

I hope I can make myself useful when I'm there, but it seems to me that you do just fine with your "somewhat limited" French!

Betty...how kind can a person be..."somewhat limited" French!!

Wait til Lilia sees this..she will tell you...when she stops laughing!!

a bientot....

Joan

Hi Joan,

I went to the brocante and think I saw the knobs you found. There were quite a few and very beautiful. I did buy porcelain plates and a cup (with a lid, or is that bowl?) and a saucer. The lady told me that it was from the 18th century. I also bought 2 necklaces with gorgeous glass pendants. I loved the brocante.

I've passed by Davoli 6 times in just the 2 days I've been here. Haven't purchased anything, but it looks great!

TR

Joan
I enjoyed all your pictures. Those knobs were beautiful. I will have to spend more time in Paris next yr, so I have time to find all those special little things. I will have to plan where i can use those nobs.
Thanks for answering Tod about the flight. Your answer was right on! I did not like the stress of finding the departure gate to Amsterdam. It was in another airport,actually. it was their domestic airport. that would have been nice to know BEFORE I got out of the car with all m luggage.
The weather has been so mild here this weekend. Certainly does not feel like the end of Nov.
enjoy
sue

Checking in to get my weekly dose of Paris and was not disappointed. I love those porcelain knobs! I continue to add new places to my already long list of places to eat. Thank you for doing this...it's so enjoyable.

Joan,
I am inquiring about the Kir apartment that you stayed in. I see that the only bed is actually a folding sofa. Can you please elaborate, is it easy to fold down, comfortable, quick to make up in the morning etc.? Also, they list a tv, but I don't see one in the pictures, where is it located and what type is it? (details like that matter to my DH) We are looking at this apartment for the end of Jan. Oh one other thing, I do not see a cleaning fee listed on the Paris Perfect website, is there one?
Thanks so much for your help!
Poconolady
T

poconolady,

I think you can see the bottom of the TV in the picture with the chandelier and the table..it is up above..just the edge of it on right side. The bed is a trundle bed. You pull out the lower one and it raises up for the 2nd bed. The apt. is small...very efficient for its size.

I previewed the Cotes de Provence above for someone. It is cute, bright and light. The Chablis is quite special..your husband might prefer the space there. The bath has both a tub and separate stall shower..great ET views.

TV has several english channels, but do not expect to get the things that you receive here...more CNN Intl and a couple British ones.

What time of the year and for how long?

Anything else?

a bientot...

Joan

Joan, thanks for your review of the Cotes de Provence apt. It looks cute and comfy for my purposes - solo. I've never gone the apt. route yet, but am thinking I probably should. I was just in Paris for last 2 weeks of Oct., in an hotel. I liked the hotel, as I knew it quite well from previous trips - but at this point I'm sure 2 weeks would be better in an apt. One question, though. I guess the Cotes de Provence doesn't have A/C (since they don't mention it on the website). That might be a deal breaker for me! Even in Oct. I used it every night - for the quiet. I live in South Florida, and am SO used to A/C. Do you think the Kir might be better in that case? My traveling months are usually May or October. All the Paris Perfect apts look so lovely!

Joan, Thank you for posting your thoughts on the Cotes de Provence apartment.

Sue4, I had the same thought about the A/C. I, too, noticed that it isn't mentioned on the website and I live in Phoenix and am very used to air conditioning as well. It might be a deal breaker for me too during the warmer months. The price and all the other amenities seem hard to beat though.

Hi,

I lived in Coral Gables for many, many years so understand the A/C..Phoenix is so used to the lack of humidity.

The apt. would be very quiet due to its location.

I have been in Paris often in May and October. Was there mid April to mid May this year. May is usually chilly, especially would be so for both of you. I wore a light coat all the time. I was there in Oct the year before and it was just plain cold. Another year, recently, it was unusually warm in Oct.Weather, weather.

a bientot,

Joan

Yesterday I stayed home. I caught up on some personal computer stuff. I did laundry. I cooked..thanks to Davoli.

It was a windy, blustery day with showers off and on. I did venture out for a bit late in afternoon. I was surprised that it was quite warm...it looked colder.

Will have to see what today brings. Looks a bit breezy out there now.

a picture for you:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=2f9488d4.pbw

a bientot..

Joan

Good morning Joan!
Hope the weather improves but with all the terrible rain being experienced in England, I'm not surprised you chaps in Paris are'nt getting it too good either.

Your photo is great - is that fish? Don't forget you can go out tonight in the pitch dark and it won't be a problem thanks to your good dose of Vitamin A! (HaHa! -I love carrots too.)

Have you thought about going to the wonderful Cirque d'Hiver in the 11th? Those photos from Nikki really show up the wonderful old interior. We took a walk by there in May but of course it was all shut tight.

I made a big mistake with the airfare estimate - I was comparing Coach with Club class. Anyway it turns out the Travel Agent may be cheaper in the end. We will be biting the bullet and going Club. When am I ever going to be travelling that way again......probably never.

Have a lovely day!

Hi tod,

Yes, seabass....

Our weaather has been beautiful, until yesterday. It is overcast now, but not raining.

I am going out for some breakfast shortly and will go from there. I had planned on walking across pont alma for some window shopping and to Four Seasons Hotel for lunch in Le Bar.

Will see what the weather brings.......

a bientot...

Joan

I returned from my breakfast..croissant and cafe creme..waved to Christian as I passed Cafe Constant.

The sky keeps changing..at the moment it looks like there might be a passing shower about to arrive.It is still warm, but breezy. Have not changed coats, yet.

I need to get my Violon reservation for Thursday (your Thanksgiving) settled. I did send Catherine an email..don't think she works on Monday. I may walk by and catch Alexandre or even Christian,(with my expanded French vocabulary) and get it settled before my wandering over to George V.

Florent and Michael picked up their new car, BMW SUV on Sat. and are excited about it. I sent them a Jacquie Lawson congratulations card. I called Florent to tell him not to discard something from Jacquie Lawson before reading..

a bientot...

Joan

Bonjour,

Just returned from my walk across Pont Alma and up Geore V to the Four Seasons Hotel.

An expensive slumming!! I had their traditional club sandwich w/ bacon, an asiette frites(there were more french fries than 4 people could eat..I have photo. 1 verre Ch. Peyroutes, 1/2 bottle water and glaces/sorbet..90 euros!! I thought I was going to Le Bar, but he had better seating in the Galerie..same menu. Le Cinq is beyond. An 'older' couple came in looking like they had stepped off a cruis ship...he in light khakis and pale blue long sleeve tee..she in similar colors..they went back to Le Cinq..he returned shortly after. I thought maybe he was going to the men's room, but he returned shortly after with a jacket on...Le Cinq dress code!

I could have had a better lunch nearby and cheaper, but I can say that I have been!

Sky is grey..as you can tell from photo..no rain and it is warm.

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=09edc97f.pbw

a bientot....

Joan

Pricey indeed! but absolutely gorgeous--and u r so right--those fries could feed all your fans at Fodors.

I think I could've eaten every single one of those frites, especially since they were presented like a gift. Delicious looking meal Joan, the dessert looked so tasty!

I had already been served all the frites that I wanted. What you see, I didn't touch. I could not eat all the sandwich, either. I should not have ordered the dessert, It was probably the lightest of what was offerred.

I did not find either their bar or the galerie to my liking. I much prefer the Le Meurice Bar or the Bar Vendome.

A few years ago I stayed for a short trip at the Westminster Opera. They seemed to have a popular bar area. It was crowded every evening.

A bientot...

Joan

JOAN

I enjoyed your pictures. Sounds like an expensive sandwich and frites. Those frites are served pretty special. But not that special!! Your dessert looked really good. I had forgotten about the Four Seasons. It sounds like you do not need to go back. Went to walgreens and ordered my Paris pictures. I just enjoyed re living Paris as I was looking at them.

the weather has been very gloomy the last few days.
Enjoy your Thanksgiving dinner at Violin.

Sue

Sometimes you just have to do it. What a pile of fries!

Hi, Joan--what will you be doing on Thanksgiving?

Joan,
Thanks once again for your daily updates and yummy photos, which I've been enjoying. I wanted to be sure to send my best wishes for a Happy Thanksgiving, Parisian-style.
EJ

Jean,

Florent and Michael will be coming to my apartment first and then we will walk down to Violon d'Ingres for our 8:30 Thanksgiving reservations. It looked like ther were many reservations when I stopped by to check with Alexandre. I asked Catherine if Christian was going to prepare a tradidional TG dinner for the Amnericans!! Who knows, there may be a touch of something...

Thanks for the Thnksgiving wishes and Happy Thanksgiving to all from Paris!

a bientot...

Joan

Oh Joan! what a price to pay for a good ol' club sandwich!
And as for the frites.......I would love to see the look on their faces if someone like RobertaL had scoffed the lot!
I had a wonderful lunch (sorbet in between courses to clear the palate and all that) at L'Aiguiere which cost exactly the same.
What a pity Kerouac wasn't passing by from his office on George V - could have helped out with that enormous offering of delicious sandwiches!?
Wishing you and all other Americans a beautiful Thanksgiving - have a lovely dinner!

This just might work...............

http://www.jacquielawson.com/viewcard.asp?code=1988208278860&source=jl999

a bientot...

Joan

Interesting shot of the ET..the sky to the left

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=59e4ff6f.pbw

What a lovely card, and what a wonderful gesture Joan!

I think you have either captured a rainbow or if you took it through glass, could be reflecting the light somehow? I hope it's a rainbow on Thanksgiving!

Tod,

I think it was rainbows.The sky kept changing Have other shots, too.Door was open, so not reflection.

The day has changed from earlier..rather blustery..off/on showers. I decided to walk down and make a big choice..Cafe Constant or Les Cocottes. I went to Les Cocottes. I was there before 12:15 and a few people ahead of me..by 1:45 it was full.Christian came in and came over to chat with me and I was able to tell him that I had Parisien friends joining me at 8:30 on Thurs. at Violon..AND it was American Thnksgiving. He picked up on that and I could see some wheels turning, so who knows there may be a bit of TG to our dinner!

Some pics for you...

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=91398474.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Joan, I would easily skip the turkey tomorrow if I could be in a Paris restaurant instead.

I came across a Paris market from http://parisbreakfast.com/. Have you ever visited Marche Raspail? Sundays, metro Rennes. It's under the Nov 20 entry.

Have a great day!

-Roberta

Roberta,you are online early.....

I doubt that we will have turkey..maybe a bit of festive something or other for 'our' TG. Will not mean much to Florent and Michael. Will take some pictures of them at Violon.

Yes I did see the earlier post re Marche Raspail. I have been there..a nice Sunday Marche. I have not been lately. Guess I have been going on Sat. to the President Wilson across the pont alma..it is a biggie. The Raspail one is nice because it is not so large.

a bientot....

Joan

Hi Joan, in your opinion, which is a better location for an apartment, Sevres Babylone or along Rue Mazarine and the Seine? Thanks!

summagold,

I would probably say Sevres Babylone, but remember I am a western 7th arrondissement person, and probably not the best one to answer. I'm sure others who are reading this will give you their opinions.

Hope you are finding something..

Joan

Summagold, how do the apartments compare? Sevres Babylone is next to Bon Marche mall but I think sightseeing might be nicer near Rue Mazarine (St. Germain, the Seine).

-Roberta

hi! we are sort of looking for nightlife. is Rue Mazarine better situated for that?

joan, love your pics, that is indeed a rainbow!

hi! Sorry to interrupt the delicious meals and rainbows, but i have a question that I just can't seem to resolve. I'm comming to Paris on the 17th of December(my fourth time) and yet every time i mention this to anyone they start going on at great lengths about how much they dislike Paris! It only makes me love it more, but I am simply at a loss to understand.

Well, at least you won't run into them!

teacup,
I don't know where you live or if your 'friends' have ever been to Paris. I have often found that the people who say they would not got to Paris, the French are rude, when asked when they were in Paris,the response is "never"!

You will find on this site that people love Paris. It is the reason that we keep returning and returning. There is no end to it. I will be her til 12/14 and I will be returning the end of Jan for a month.

As Kerouac said, "at least you won't run into them!"

Enjoy your planning and keep enjoying Paris, as we all do!

a bientot....

Joan

teacup and Joan,

I too have heard negative comments about Paris and most often, the people making the comments have never been there.

In fact, before her first Paris trip with me last fall, my sister heard the same comments (rude, etc.) and said she was sure I wouldn't have fallen in love with Paris if that were the case. Then, during our stay, she saw time and time again the kindness of the French, and now knows exactly why Paris is my favorite city in the world.

Joan, I hope you get a nice little TG surprise at your dinner tomorrow evening!

Gia

Oops, I can't even spell my own name today!

Gina

Ugggghh. Whenever I hear someone say they don't want to go to Paris because the French are rude, I roll my eyes. I have never encountered this stereotype. It probably stems from Americans who go there and immediately speak English. They may get the rudeness in return! If you are polite, always say Bonjour when entering a store and make an effort to speak a tiny bit of French, you should have a nice experience.

My husband is ready to send me to therapy because I am overly consumed with thoughts of Paris.

-Roberta

I was looking for the Italian restaurant on Grenelle that someone asked me about. I found two in the particular area..one was close, so I went into the other one and I had dinner. A tiny place with a giant chandelier. The owner was very friendly and we each struggled with each other's language.I kept seeing all these people sosme in and disappear down into the cellar. I finally had to ask him. It seems that they have another restaurant diagonally across the street, but the one I was in had the kitchen in the cellar!

I did take a picture of my salad and forgot to take one of the pasta. I had wine, of course, and a cappuchino. He insisted that I have an after dinner limoncello..so, I did.

I will post picture tomorrow..

a bientot..

Joan

JOAN
Your card to us was so nice! I know you will enjoy your Thanksgiving at the Violin. sounds like a great evening.
I ,also, would be happy to give up my traditional turkey meal for a lovely dinner in my favorite city.
Happy Thanksgiving from Wisconsin
Sue

Thanks for all the responses! Strangely enough, most of these people have been to Paris and they find it, wait for it, ............BORING! And yes, rude. I have only ever found the people to be unbelievably polite and helpful. Anyone here got any advice on which are the best christmas markets? I think I'll be joining you in therapy, Roberta!

Here is the salad picture from last night. I forgot to take a picture of the pasta dish or the freebie lemoncello after dinner drink..

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=8c969745.pbw

a bientot..

Joan

Joan,
Thanksgiving greetings to you! You're probably getting ready for your "feast". Hope he has some nice surprises for you.

Looking forward to your report....

Jeanne

Joan,

Happy Thanksgiving from Sunny California where we are expecting a high of 82 degress. Come Christmas, when I will be there in Paris, this girl from California will be very cold. However, like I enjoy saying, "better chilly in Paris, than sleeveless in Los Angeles".

Looking forward to your Thanksgiving photos.

Waiting for gracejoan3 to give us some shots of the torrential rains in Paris tonight....

Well all I can say is we had a great Thanksgiving!! Michael and Florent came by my apt. and I had a nice Pessac Bordeaux for them. It was raining a bit as we walked the block to Violon. Alexandre greeted and seated us. We decided that we would prefer having a wine with each course, depending what we were eating. That worked out well. Christian came by and apologized for not recognizing our holiday. He said until I mentioned it to him yesterday he did not know..too late then. I think he is forgiven with the meal that we had!!We each shared the 3 different desserts and all had cafe creme. Florent was not sure when he would be able to eat again! They voted another winner..each restaurant they shared with me has been thoroughly enjoyed and a step up each time! I don't know how this one could be improved upon! A fun evening and a Happy Thanksgiving shared with two nice friends.

photos for you:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=c124adb2.pbw

a bientot...

Joan

Lovely pictures, Joan. I especailly like seeing your beautiful face and your 2 friends. Thanks for sharing and keeping us updated on all this Paris. Can't wait to see it for ourselves next weekend.

Hope you had a good Thanksgiving Joan--NC had a gorgeous day but it will be chilly tomorrow. Enjoy the weekend.

Joan, I was just looking at all of your pictures from this trip and see that you went to Au Gourmand. Is that where we dined together on the right bank back in '07?

Joan
Your pictures from dinner were wonderful. That lobster entree looked spedial. The picture of the three of you was really nice.
we had a nice thanksgiving day here. It was great ,as I did not have to cook! I showed my Paris pictures today and it was nice just remembering all thr great tastes!

time to go to bed.

Sue

Sue (grandmere),

Yes, Au Gourmand is where we went ..I think it was Oct. '08, when Linda was with me. I was there after that with Jean-Paul and Martine, but not sure when. The owner and I were trying to remember.

Florent and Michael did enjoy their meal there. A good spot.

Jacqueline is arriving this weekend from Provence and they want to arrange for the 4 of us for Paul Bert. Jacqueline is their friend who looks like a movie star from Greta Garbo era. Beautiful.

Much cooler weather on the way. Time to change coats!

a bientot....

Joan

Lovely photos again Joan! So glad the meal was a success.
You do a very good job of promoting the Constant restaurants - does he know that?! I think you deserve some recognition LOL!

I was interested to read up about Christian Constant and found a nice little write up. I see he is married to a Scot, Catherine who he met on board the QE2.
http://www.restaurantdiningcritiques.com/paris-restaurant-dining-reviews/le-violon-dingres-christian-constant-paris/

I also saw this on ZAGAT'S about Violon and was quite sad to read some of the comments. Only days before you were there, a Canadian couple did not have such a happy time.
http://www.zagat.com/Verticals/PropertyDetails.aspx?VID=8&R=69703

Looks like I'll definitely have to go and see for myself.
I am planning on doing all the Constant eateries so that in the future when you mention a meal at So and So place, I will know exactly what you experienced! Up till now it's all just drooling over wonderful food photos........................!

tod

I, too am surprised at what was said on Zagat when I looked at it. The couple who had the table at the far end, closest to the rest rooms, might have been lucky to get a table at all if they were without reservations. You will also find complaints about every starred restaurant out there. Some do not have the educated palate needed for some places..like Gagnaire...some may have mistakenly ordered something that they really don't care for. I certainly have done that!

My two friends who joined me are very particular and knowledgeable French diners. They thought everything was magnificent. Alexandre has been Maitre D for some time now. He does an excellent job. He is on top of everything. Our server was a young gal who my friends repeatedly commented on her expertise and friendliness.

They had to agree with me, that having these 4 restaurants so nearby makes you lazy about traveling very far away..too easy..for a simple meal to a very fine meal. Walk a block for dinner/lunch/breakfast. I always tell Catherine that the Constants do feed me on my trips to Paris.

Yes, Catherine is Scottish and they did meet on the QE2. A charming gal. They have two sons..must be close to being teenagers now.

Les Cocottes and Cafe Constant get very crowded. No reservations..for less than 6. I usually tell people to get there by 7:30 for tables. Service might suffer somewhat with these crows, but that should be expected.

My only disappointment is the extra casual dress that you now see in fine restaurants..seems to be many Americans, but I may be wrong. I think dress that you wear for Violon type food should be better than what you wear to McDonalds! I see this at the Crillon, the Ritz, every place I go. Sad.

Enjoy...

a bientot...

Joan

Joan, you are absolutely right in what you say. Some folks just can't be pleased. I also think if you start off on the right foot and pass a nice compliment about the restaurant the waiter with the gout toe might even smile!

Yes, pity about the sloppy dressers. I am sure a person dressed fairly smartly might even get better service!
Of course being on holiday does lend itself to a more casual style of dress but that does not excuse oneself for not making at least an attempt at neatning up for a nice dinner!
I make sure my day clothes can be turned into evening dress by just adding a pair of sparkly earings, a nice necklace or brooch, even an attractive little scarve.
Most important is to re-do ones makeup and hair and spray on that gorgeous French perfume!

I have spent the last several days in wanderings..Bon Marche/Cherche Midi/Rennes....lower 14th and more of the 15th.

I just made reservations for lunch at Cafe de la Paix..Grande Hotel..Opera....will post later..

a bientot..

Joan

I am sure a person dressed fairly smartly might even get better service!

I will say once again that one of the true measures of the class and sophistication of an establishment is that they serve everyone equally well, no matter how they are dressed.

That is one of the basic rules of savoir-vivre in Paris.

kerouac, you are soooo right. DH and I were treated royally at a Paris restaurant even though we were disheveled and toting luggage. We looked like the poor relatives from the "sticks".

I know what Gracejoan means though and think the dress code has relaxed a great deal. On the other hand, snobbishness has no place with people with class.

I'm glad to hear that Kerouac. I still like to take pride in my appearance and dressing for the occasion probably may have some air of anticipation and enjoyment for a woman.

I hope I did not make it appear snobbishness. That certainly was not the intent. I just think it looks nice to dress nicely in a nice restaurant..perhaps somewhat old fashioned, and probably more from a female standpoint than a male.

I bet a great many of you do not know/remember the days when you "dressed" to fly on a plane. Now it looks like we are going to mow the yard, or have just mowed the yard!

I did just return from lunch at Cafe de la Paix. I was disappointed. There are 2 separate dining areas..the terrasse, without table cloths and their menu and the main dining room with table cloths and their menu. They send people fom the front who are not sure where to go and many who are to go to the terrasse area end up in the main dining room, where they are supposed to be individually seated. Then when many from the terrasse area leave they enter the main dining room from the far end and walk the whole length. Obviously could be handled better. I did take pictures. I also had some nice huitres and quail.

When I left there I decided I deserved the Bar Vendome at the Ritz, which is nearby. I rather wished I had just gone there in the first place for lunch, but I did want to go to the Cafe de la Paix.

a bientot..

Joan

I meant to say that all the marches from rond point to pl de la concorde are up and running..the decorations are all up etc.losts of people..glad I got home when I did..more rain now.

Photos from lunch

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=38194c81.pbw

a couple pictures

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj124/abbynoelle/?action=view&current=82f2cc60.pbw

Hello Joan,

In following you for the past two Paris trips, I have been trying to guesstimate what you are averaging for lunch and dinner. I note your meals are varied in price, however, little to no dinners for under $75. My family and I will be staying in a Paris Perfect apartment for 10 days during Christmas and may not be able to leave the area for dinner, therefore, I am trying to put a budget together for meals using the restaurants in the area of the 7th. Like you, I/we enjoy dressing up and dining out and cooking in the apartment will be done infrequently.

Joan, will you kindly provide some feedback on this topic from your experiences. I will greatly appreciate your advice. Thank you

LikToTravel,

There are so many restaurants in this area that you will have no trouble in being able to enjoy dining in this area. The two 'no reservations' Constant restauranats, Les Cocottes and Cafe Constant are very reasonable. You can order a la carte any way you choose..I sometimes order two starters (entrees) only. Often menus will have a set price for either a main (plat) and starter, or main and dessert..also a set price for all 3.

I would put Pasco,74 de la Tour Maubourg 01 44 18 33 26 Open 7 days,LeFlorimond,19 Ave de la Motte Picquet 01 45 55 40 38,
Chez Pierrot 9 rue Amelie 01 45 51 50 08, Au Bon Accueil 14 Monttessuy 01 47 05 46 11, Chez les Anges 54 bd de la Tour Maubourg 01 47 05 89 86, Au Petit Sud Ouest, 46 ave de la Bourdonnais 01 45 55 59 59, Le Clos des Gourmets, 16 Ave Rapp, 01 45 51 75 61. Go to Davoli on rue Cler and pick up some goodies to take home, too. This is just a handful..there are so many more, too.Violon d'Ingres is a good buy and you might want to make it a special treat. Fables has excellent seafood and again, is more expensive. All have their menus outside to look at for prices.

Which PP apt. are you staying in? I'm sure you will enjoy your stay during the Christmas holidays. The decorations are up now and all the lights. The big Marche along the end of Champs Elysees is in full swing. Do take an evening walk across Pont Alama and up Montaigne to Rond Pt and look at all the lights..

a bientot...

Joan

Joan,

Thank you for your prompt and detailed response. I do have Les Cocottes and Cafe Constant on my list from your suggestions in April. The Davoli is also another my family is looking forward to popping into after viewing the photos you posted. The list you provided is amazing and I look forward to taking a leisurely walk by each restaurant to study the menus in order to make our daily dinner choices. The Violon d'Ingres is definitely high on our list for one of our special dinners -- maybe for Christmas Eve.

Joan, you are simply amazing and I am ever so grateful for your kindness.

Please don't think that you have to stay in just one part of Paris for your meals. The transportation options are excellent.

Joan, you are so kind and patient with us all! You constantly take time out of your vacation in Paris to answer our questions, respond to our comments and post your beautiful pictures. I just wanted to thank you again for your generous contributions to Fodors. I know that your on-going threads of your trips are probably some of the most popular and most-followed here. Merci beaucoup!

Jo

What pretty lights! When do they go up?

When I was in college, we were not allowed to wear slacks outside of the dorm unless it was less than 32 degrees outside! Yes, GJ, I remember dress codes all too well!

Kerouac,

Agreed, "the transportation options are excellent". We have been to Paris a few times and have favorite restaurants in other parts of the city, however, it is not an issue of transporation but mobility. Joan has posted that taking buses at times can be easier than having to tackle the metro stairs, therefore, we may do more buses than metro this trip. Our goal is to venture out daily to see the beautiful decorations at the various stores and to see the lights we hear so much about. Hopefully, if we are still out and about as dinner time approaches we will definitely take advantage of having dinner in other areas outside of the 7th.

One question, I/we have a Carte Orange and hear that it has been elimitated. We are bringing new photos for a new metro/bus card. Will you kindly advise what is the name of the new card and where we may obtain one in relation to the 7th?

Merci beaucoup

I did start 'Part II' per request....

a bientot...

Joan

Link to Part II:

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/paris-nov-3-dec-14-part-ii.cfm

Thanks JeanneB..

I had put it in favorites for myself to make it easy...

Joan

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