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Paris: Montmartre Exploration

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Rough draft of a walk in this area is found below. Would appreciate your feedback and recommendations on places to see and where you might eat or have a drink.

Its about a two mile walk with some steep hills. I figure the best time is early in the morning or late afternoon after some of the tour busses have departed. Hike up to the church or ride the funicular (one metro ticket).

START POINT: METRO STOP ANVERS (LINE TWO)

HALLE ST-PIERRE (ST. PETER?S MARKET HALL). 2 rue Ronsard. M: Anvers. Elegant iron and glass 19C market hall at the foot of Sacre-Coeur. Café, bookstore and Museum of Native Art.

SACRE-COEUR. (Sacred Heart Church). M: Angers or Abbesses. Open: 0700-2200. Free. 3E for Dome and Crypt. Great city views from here. Romanesque and Byzantine architecture. Golden mosaics inside. Took over forty years to build.

NOTE: Skip the Dome and Crypt.

LEAVE CHURCH, TURN RIGHT AND FOLLOW TREE-LINED STREET. AT RUE ST-ELEUTHERE, TURN RIGHT AND WALK UP TO

ST.PIERRE-DE-MONTMARTRE. 2 rue du Mont-Cenis. 0800-1930. Oldest church in area.

PLACE DU TERTE. M: Abbesses. little square in the heart of Montmartre where many artists gather to sell paintings and draw pictures of tourists visiting just as they have done for more than 100 years.

LA MERE CATHERINE RESTAURANT. Favorite of Cossasks in 1814 during Russian occupation.

PLACE DU CALVAIRE, just off Place du Terte, smallest square in Paris with great city views

NORTHERN SLOPES OF LA BUTTE (THE MOUND)

FOLLOW RUE NEVINS TO RUE DES SAULES, THEN TURN RIGHT AND WALK DOWNHILL.

NOTE: View the dome of Sacre-Coeur rising above the rooftops just after the Café Consulat.

TURN RIGHT AT (MAISON ROSE RESTAURANT) UP RUE CORTOT FOR

MUSEE DE MONTMARTE. 12 rue Cortot. M: Lamarck-Caulaincourt. Tue-Sun 1100-1800. Nice
neighborhood museum set up in the oldest house on the Butte.

RETURN TO RUE DES SAULES AND WALK DOWNHILL PAST THE MAISON ROSE TO

MONTMARTRE?S VINEYARD. Rue des Saules.

CONTINUE DOWNHILL TO

AU LAPIN AGILE (1860). 26 rue des Saules. Oldest surviving nightspot in Montmartre.

CIMETIERE ST-VINCENT: Entry on rue Lucien-Gaulard via rue St-Vincent, behind Lapin Agile.

WESTERN SLOPES OF LA BUTTE

RETURN TO RUE DES SAULES AND WALK UP HILL TO THE CREST NEAR THE BAKERY

WALK DOWNHILL. HUG BUILDINGS ON THE LEFT. TURN RIGHT ON RUE RAVIGNAN FOR

Bateau-Lavior (Boar Wash house). Picasso?s studio.

WALK DOWNHILL ONE SHORT BLOCK, TURN LEFT ON RUE D?ORCHAMPS AND JUST BEYOND THE INTERSECTION WITH RUE LEPIC FIND

MOULIN DE LA GALETTE. Only two windmills remain in an area once dotted with them. Originally used to crush stones and grapes. Site of a once famous outdoor dance hall. Renoir?s Bal du Moulin de la Galette shows it in it?s heyday.

CONTINUE PAST THE MAIN ENTRY OF MOULIN DE LA GALETTE DOWN RUE LEPIC TO NUMBER 54 TO FIND

VAN GOGH?S HOUSE (1886-1888).

WALK BACK EAST TO THE INTERSECTION WITH RUE THOLOZE AND TURN RIGHT DOWNHILL ON THOLOZE

NOTE: Studio 28 at number 10 was the first cinema built for experimental films

CONTINUE DOWN THOLZE TO RUE DES ABBESSES AND TURN LEFT TOWARDS THE

PLACE DES ABBESSES. Picturesque, slightly countrified square.

NOTE: Le Sancerre. 35 rue des Abbesses. Raucous café with music & view of Abbesses street scene.

ST-JEAN L?EVANGELISTE (1904). First concrete building in Paris. Has Art Nouveau curves. Bricks were added to soothe offended city officials.

FROM THE SQUARE TAKE RUE YVONNE-LE-TAC OFF TO THE RIGHT

CHAPELL DU MARTYRE at number 9 is where St-Denis was beheaded. Open daily 1500- 1800.

END THE WALK AT THE ABBESSES METRO STATION.

NOTE: Entrance to the station is a curving mass of delicate iron and one of the two remaining Art Nouveau entrance canopies left in Paris.

FOLLOW-ON EXPLORATION OPTIONS:

To visit Cimetiere de Montmarte (end of ave Rachel off bd de Clichy), take metro to Blanche. Leafy refuge is moving and evocative. Resting place of Degas, Greuze and Fragonard.

To combine with St-Denis Cathedral, take Metro to place de Clincy and transfer to line 13

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