Paris in January: 1 week, 2 women - your help and ideas on our itinerary would be much appreciated. Especially on RESTAURANTS

It's totally chiched for Americans but I had a fantastic time at the Hemingway Bar...

I have written quite a bit about the places I loved eating in Paris - if you click on my username, you should be able to find my 2 previous trip reports for more info. Offhand, I loved Astier, Fontaine de Mars, and Le Petit Troquet; several others were good but not great, and I really really didn't enjoy Bistrot de Breteuil, Le Coupe Chou, and Fermette Marbeuf.

Savannah - I originally had the Ritz and Bar Heminway in my itinerary for Saturday night! It seems like a place my friend would love. But the price seems a little steep so I was uncertain.

tara - I'll check out your trip reports and read about those restaurants. Have you been to any of the ones I'm considering?

One drink is totally worth the price.

rosetravels: I'm sorry! I replied to your thread by mistake; I'd meant to post that elsewhere. In any case, no, I haven't been to the restaurants you're considering but I'm sure you'll enjoy yourself if you've researched them as it sounds like you have!

In the search section on this page type in - Paris Dining - and you will get some very useful threads answering your query about well priced Paris food

Hi R,

Sounds very nice.

> do we need a pass or should we buy carnets?

My Lady wife and I have not yet gone beyond 1 carnet pp/week

You might find these helpful:
Degas’s Paris Walks
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34712768

Kerouac’s Ethnic Walk
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35095155

Enjoy your visit.

Sounds like a fabulous trip and you are covering a lot of territory. But you have left a little time to add some things. Some of my favorites, all things that we see everytime we go to Paris, include Ste. Chapelle (a must see - try to go on a sunny morning to see the stained glass at its best), the Orangerie (recently reopened after extensive restoration), the Rodin Museum and gardens (although I'm not sure what they are like in January) and the Winged Victory at the Louvre.

As for restaurants, a few of our favorites include Bastide de Odeon, L'Epi Dupin and Bouquinistes - all in the 6th, Fontaine de Mars in the 7th and, for atmosphere, one of the traditional brasseries - the Flo chain has some good ones. There are lots of good suggestions on this forum.

Have a wonderful time!

Near your apartment are three fine, resonably priced restaurants, Au Bascou, Le Petit Troquet and Auberge Nicolas Flamel.

Fabulous input - thanks. I'll add these ideas to my list. The Orangerie is reopened? What do they have there? And yes - the Rodin museum. I think my friend will enjoy that.

Ste.Chappelle - I do think we'll end up going there. I was hoping they'd have a concert but it doesn't seem to be happening.

Does anyone know how to find out if the St.Eustache organ concert will be playing?

The Orangerie has reopened. A major attraction is Monet's murals of waterlilies, absolutely fabulous. There is also other Impressionist art. Well worth a visit. I read somewhere (probably on this board) that the mornings are reserved for tour groups so you will need to schedule your visit for the afternoon.

As for concerts, we always use www.ampconcerts.com to see the schedule. It lists lots of concerts in churches and normally contains the Ste. Chapelle schedule. Right now neither Ste. Chapelle nor St. Eustache concerts are listed. I don't believe Ste. Chapelle has concerts in the winter as it is not heated. Not sure about St. Eustache.

Lunch somewhere in Montmartre?

Don't worry so much about finding a particular place. There are cafes surrounding the artist's area as well as one inside the square they form. You can get a drink and lunch in any of these, but there are more off any of the streets that flow away from the square. A very nice one is called La Terrace and the one across the street from it, with a ceramic chicken in front, is good for moules frites.

Pjk

Also near your apartment is Le Pamphlet, which I loved (although my visit was several years ago). 37, rue Debelleyme, 01 42 72 39 24.

Bookmarking...

I hope that you enjoy the spectacular Jacquemart-Andre museum as much as we did.

Since you have scheduled a morning visit and do not have lunch plans set for that day, you might consider staying at their cafe for lunch. We had a delicious and reasonably-priced light lunch in that very pretty room a few years back. Then you can revisit any favorite rooms or works of art before you leave the museum.

Your trip sounds wonderful. We will be in the Marais from 21-28 January and also intend to start out by laying in provisions from the market on rue Montorgueil.

There are always many concerts in Paris, there will be plenty outside Ste Chapelle. I also wouldn't worry so much about scheduling everything and every lunch.

That ampconcerts website isn't any schedule for anything but that particular musical group's own concerts. It only lists its own schedule, although there aren't any concerts in Ste Chapelle in Jan that I've seen on more official and comprehensive listings (like in the entertainment section of the Tourist Info website). They would never list organ recitals in churches on ampconcerts.

There are generally organ recitals in St Eustache at 5:30 on every Sunday of the year but a few. Their own website lists the schedule, but isn't updated for Jan 2008. But they had them throughout Dec., so I expect they will.
check back before going on
http://www.saint-eustache.org/vie-artistique.php#concerts

You really should just buy an entertainment guide when you get their from a news kiosque, and you'll be able to see every concert going on by day. It's less than one euro, so I'd buy one even if you don't get there until Sunday (they come out on Wed), and then buy a new one later.

Not sure if you are interested in jazz (or older style French jazz), but Claude Bolling's group is playing at Le Petit Journal St Michel on Tuesday, 1/29 and that's when you plan to be in the area. if interested, check www.petitjournalsaintmichel.com

I highly recommend the Louis Vins. It's cute, has good food and good wine and a wine bar where you can wait if you need to--and reasonable prices. The restaurant you may be looking for in Montmartre is on Rue des Martyrs leading away from the Mont, toward the Notre Dame de Lorette. It's the street with the Amelie bar and a great walk in itself. Just off it, is Chez Tito, recommended in a 2005 NYTimes article on the street. It's actually an Italian food store with a few tall tables. Food is fantastic and the vibe very welcoming and warm. Not your typical Paris lunch but a great one and a nice change of pace. On the trip we made where we included it, it was one of my top three out of about 16 dining experiences, most several times more expensive than it and including a few "must do"s from every guidebook/restaurant listing.

Thanks all - this is such great help. I sent my friend the itinerary today. She thinks I'm a little over the top. I didn't tell her about fodors... and that I'm not the only one

mamc - thanks for the information on the Orangerie. We're buying museum passes so that we feel free to stop in whereever we want. I love art but often want to see just a few things and look at just them for awhile. We'll go there.

Peter - the moules frites sound like a good idea. That sounds good right now actually!

Nikki - I've heard good things about Le Pamphlet too and it was on my original list. The ones I found are a little less expensive.

Christine - Perfect, thanks! I've been looking just at amp website. I'll pick up the guide when we arrive. We probably just want to go to one or two concerts but I have to plan it out or I forget.

Julie - great restaurant info, thanks!

Le Hanger is my all time favorite restaurant in Paris, wonderful food at very reasonable prices, kind of a funky back alley but nothing to worry about. We always make out way here, hope you enjoy it.

Here are two restaurants in your neighborhood that we enjoyed on our last trip to Paris in June.

Pramil, 9, rue Vertbois in the 3rd, 01.42.72.03.60, M- Arts & Métier

Au Fil des Saisons- 6 rue des Fontaines du Temple 01 42 74 16 60 M- Arts & Métier

I wrote a detailed trip report if you are interested in more details.

Hi AGM - if you could post the link that would be great. I'd like to read it.

susanna - thanks! I'm looking forward to Le Hangar as everyone (and now you too!) raves about it.

I don't know if there is a better way to create a link to another thread but here you go:


http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35033101

Thanks rosetravels for this post. I'm stealing from it as I type.

We're in Paris from 1/25-2/1 and our iterinary includes much of what you have below-some on the same days!

Maybe we'll run into each other!

(Note I'll be the girl with the short blonde haircut trying to wrangle my parents everywhere)

I loved this restaurant in the Marais, I thought the atmosphere was so cozy, value for the euro was great, service was friendly, desserts were TDF!

Vins des Pyrenees (Aux) Traditional French cooking is what you will find at Vins des Pyrenees (Wines of the Pyrenees). Vins des Pyrenees is for seeing and being seen. This old wine cellar, now decked out with red-and-white-checkered tablecloths and old photographs on the walls, has an authentic 1930's feel. The atmosphere is warm, quiet, and intimate, especially on Sundays for brunch. Grilled meat is the specialty of this restaurant. You should expect to pay EUR12-EUR30 for a menu.

Contact Details
Address: 2525 Rue Beautreillis, Paris, 75004
Phone: +33 1 4272 6494
Fax: +33 1 4272 7615
Nearest station: metro: Bastille, St Paul
Neighbourhood: 4th Arrondissement
Other details
Admission charge: No
Average cost: 35
Booking advisable: Yes
Category: European
Cards accepted: Visa, Eurocard, Mastercard
Cuisine type: Bistros & Brasseries, French
Disabled access: No
Home delivery: No
Opening hours: Daily noon-3p, 8p-11p
Takeaway available: No

Here's another glowing rec for Le Hanger. Gotta go for that amazing slab of foie on the creamiest mashed potatoes ever! I can't wait to return when I'm there in May.

I love the feedback on the restaurants. Giulia - yum. I do want to try different restaurants from different regions.

plafield - I'll have to walk a LOT! I'm a serious potato fan and that sounds amazing. I may have to eat there more than once. So many restaurants, only 7 days...

I was in Paris last year and was pleased to learn at the airport that if we had extra passport pictures (which we did and I always travel with) that we could buy an Orange Card which was good for unlimited Metro and also for the RER to Gif sur yvette which is where we also went to visit friends. It was great just hopping on and off the metro and getting to and from the airport all for one very reasonable fee (we bought a 5 day). They laminate it with your picture right at the round information kiosk at the airport and you don't have to wait in the long line to buy train tickets.

Thanks Christine -
I usually walk so much that it wouldn't be worth it but I'm having problems with my foot. Thanks for the info!

Another restaurant you might want to consider is Chez Omar. If you like couscous you will love this place. It's only about a 5 minute walk from the apartment: http://ditzyspice.blogspot.com/2007/06/ah-pa-ree-dinner-at-chez-omar.html

AGM Cape Cod, I have relied on your recommendations in the past and I am preparing for our May trip. We have eaten at La Ardoise for the last three trips for Sunday dinner and am thinking of Fish for this trip. Then I saw your report of Pramil. Can you tell me about the meal and how much etc? thanks

Hi Rose,

I stayed at the same apartment last May and will be there again soon after you in Feb. I think and hope you'll enjoy it as we did. Loved the bath ; )

You mention you may like to try a Hammam - please see the following link with info on the Hammam at the Mosque. I plan to go back this time as well. I think it will be a nice winter time thing to do.

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34931948

Enjoy, E

Thanks ecat - I was just back to the post to pull off any new restaurant recommendations and to find the link to the Hamman info. Perfect timing!

bboston - are you by chance my soon-to-be landlord? If so that's too funny. Not only did someone who knows my travel partner point out my thread to her (revealing my secret travel planning obsession, darn it!) but my daughter's been keeping up with me in Kenya via my posts. And now if you're our Bill, then I'll know I've lost all anonymity (P.S.: We're very excited about the apartment!)

Here you go plambers! If you go to my trip report on the link above I also have a review of Le Comptoir.

Sunday- It is difficult night to dine out in Paris which seems so strange to our American sensibilities. In past years we have relied upon L’Ardoise in the 1st which is very good. It was a time for a change though and we were very pleased to have found Pramil. It is a small chef owned bistro in the 3rd. It was a slow night which the chef said was usual. The menu was 29€ for Entrée, Plat et Dessert.

Entrées- Omelette aux asperges sauvages (Wild Asparagus Omelet)
Foie gras mi-cuit avec oreille de porc (A foie gras terrine with pork ears in a sweet sour sauce) with a 3€ supplement

Plat- Gigot de Sept Heures (lamb cooked for seven hours served with braised vegetables)
Onglet de veau poêlé aux girolles et purée à l’huile d’olive (veal steak with sautéed mushrooms and potato puree

Dessert- Délice au chocolat tiède aux zestes d’orange confits (warm chocolate cake with orange zest)
Figues Blanches fraîches avec glace au poivre de Sichuan (fresh white figs with Sichuan peppercorn ice cream)

We spent more on wine than we did on dinner which was par for the course. We had a wonderful Riesling to start (Vendanges Tardives Riesling 1997 Domaine Julien Meyur) and a Pommard 2005 Les Cras with the plats. We had a lovely meal at Pramil and were lucky enough to talk to the chef afterwards.
Pramil Restaurant 9, Rue Vertbois 01 43 25 20 79 M- Arts & Métier