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Paris Favorites (the 11th & wine regions)

Paris Favorites (the 11th & wine regions)

Old May 25th, 2017, 12:11 PM
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Paris Favorites (the 11th & wine regions)

We're returning to Paris!!

My fiance and I will be there in October and would like to base in the 11th. Could you recommend an apt or hotel you've been pleased with? It would be wonderful if it has a balcony but not necessary or no elevator is okay if it has a terrace or view. It would really be nice if it had a free standing shower head with shower curtains and not the hand held shower head but not a deal breaker either.

Also excited to be closer to the Richard Lenoir market which we've only been once and to explore other markets if you have recommendations.

We also want to revisit museums such as the Orangerie and maybe even the Louvre but it will be our first time in these ones if you have any tips:

The Musee des Arts Forains, Musee de la Contrefacon, Musee du Vin, Musee de l'Armee, Musee des Arts et Metiers, Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, and maybe the Paris Sewer Museum ---- does it stink down there?

Care to share any of your Paris favorites? I know that's pretty broad but we're looking for some new things to do, delicious foods to try etc. I'd love to hear your favorites in the 11th... restaurants especially or anywhere really if it has a gorgeous setting or excellent food. We'll walk or take the Metro anywhere! Also planning to explore Chinatown and have dim sum if you have any advice.

From Paris we're thinking of either renting a car and driving to the Loire and Bordeaux regions, also first time venturing here. Still not sure if we should take the train instead. What was your experience like?
Do you have recommendations on restaurants along the way? Favorite wineries and hotels in the areas?

Any input is greatly appreciated. We love Paris and can't wait to see more of France!

Thank you!
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Old May 25th, 2017, 01:06 PM
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A car id great to visit deep into provincial France. You can go anywhere you want and travel at any moment you want with a car. Essential, I'd think, for visiting vineyards.
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Old May 25th, 2017, 01:45 PM
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Yes, but you don't need a car until you actually get there. You can take the TGV to Tours, pick up a car there, and continue your journey. You don't say how many days you have for touring the wine regions of the Loire and Bordeaux, so it's hard to give any useful advice. The best wineries to visit are those that produce wines that you like to drink.
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Old May 25th, 2017, 04:03 PM
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The southern part of the 11th and of the 12 over to Gare de Lyon and even Place de la nation will suit your description, given the willingness to walk a bit. While not a particular tourist destination (Bastille aside) it has the advantage of being a typical mix of wealth and more recent immigration, real neighbourhoods. Another market, open daily except Monday, is in Place d'Aligre, not as gourmet as Lenoir's twice-a-week offerings but still mouth-watering. There are several members of the Ibis chain in this span, all uniformly efficient without any 'character' good or ill.
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Old May 25th, 2017, 11:40 PM
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The Citadines Richard Lenoir is very close to the Thurs and Sun Bastille market.
It is a legal apart'hotel, includes a kitchen and weekly maid service, and is very convenient to transportation. It's in an interesting working class neighborhood, too.
A car is unnecessary in Paris - parking is expensive, gas and toll roads will eat up a lot of your cash, too.
I'd suggest purchasing train tickets to the main cities you want to visit in the Loire valley, and if you think you need a car while there, you can reserve one.
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Old May 25th, 2017, 11:45 PM
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I don't know of any hotels in the 11th with balconies, terraces or good views of any major monuments.

You should check the schedule of Musee des Arts Forains - you'll have to reserve ahead online:
http://arts-forains.com/en/practical-information

There are a lot of small, good restaurants in the 11th and 12th - consult ParisByMouth for recommendations.
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Old May 26th, 2017, 12:39 AM
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StC makes a good point, let the train take you to the Loire and Bordeaux and then hire a car there. A car in Paris is a pain.

Given that the Loire is 1000km long and there are wineries along most of it, do you a articular style that interests, or are you after chateaux or monesteries. Are you really just after somewhere pretty and a tasting with some local pazzaz. If so you can catch a train to Saumur and taste on the dock side (just for instance) then catch a taxi to one of the most important monestries in the middle ages with the body of Richard the lionheart interred here at Fontevraud, followed up by a taxi to a chateau and back to Paris (or stay over).

Bordeaux, the choices are very large, most of the vinyards are out of the city, the better vinyards need a booking and there are a few tourist traps. But you could drift on a bike/taxi/rental car south east tasting in the little towns of Cadillac etc for a few days before surfacing
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Old May 26th, 2017, 01:20 AM
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We always stay in the 11th near Richard Lenoir and you wont be able to see any monuments from the hotels in that area that I can think of. The area is one of our favourites, with lots of bars and restaurants and cafes. It is popular with young people so you will see lots of them out and about until all hours of the night. I can't think of a hotel in the area that has a terrace or balcony though.
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Old May 26th, 2017, 05:31 AM
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We loved the Hôtel Gabriel in the 11th on our last stay in Paris, but it doesn't really fit your description. Neither do the same two small,boutique hotels on the same street, though they all have character and charm. No balconies or terraces, though. Not sure what you'd be able to see from one
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Old May 26th, 2017, 07:01 AM
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I'd be happy to tell you about several terrific apartments I've stayed at in the 11th. One even fits all your criteria.

Unfortunately, if I do, the apartment police will come out screaming and it'll get all ugly.

It's really too bad...

And you'll be spoiled for choice with good restaurants in the 11th.

Some of them, in no particular order: Come a Casa for excellent Italian, Creperie Bretonne for good crepes and cidre, Le Villaret, L'Ebauchoir, L'Aubergeade, Le Temps au Temps, Bodega Potxolo and Au Vieux Chene. All can be googled.
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Old May 26th, 2017, 07:20 AM
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Hey Happy !
Long time I hadn't read your venom. Of course if you still recommend illegal apartments, better to not do it here.

OP : My preferred hotels in 11th
Fabrix was my 'coup de coeur 2016'

Antoine Charonne 11e République
Fabric Folie Mericourt 11e Parmentier
Grand hôtel Français Voltaire 223 11e Parmentier
Exquis by Elegancia Charonne, 71 11e Charone
Jardins du Marais Amelot, 74 11e
Gardette Général Blaise, 1 11e Bastille
Original Beamarchais 11e Bastille

Jardins is very expensive.

Restau's :
Astiers 11e Parmentier
Chat ivre Tallandiers 11e Bastille
Santa Carne Tournelles, 24 11e Bastille

Santa Carne is a must for me - argentinian, fantastic meat.
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Old May 26th, 2017, 08:51 AM
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I stayed at a hotel I liked a lot in the 11th, right near place de la Bastille but it doesn't fit your criteria exactly. The whole terrace expectation is rather unrealistic, and lots of places don't have stall showers. Although I'm not sure what you are asking for in terms of shower, many places have a shower wand but on a coiled cord so it can be set in the fixture to be like a regular shower head, so it is double duty. It was very convenient being across the street from the Opera.

http://www.pavillonbastille.com/en/

Now I really liked it and the desk staff, but it could be noisy being right on two major streets (front and back). I can't recall which one my room looked over, but I was only there a couple days and wanted a place so I could easily use the metro to/from Gare de Lyon and that worked perfectly. The superior rooms are only 15 m2, also, but are on the back, probably quieter.
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Old May 27th, 2017, 11:36 PM
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Since you asked about wine regions, I'd recommend you take the train to Dijon, then following this wine route to Beaune with stops along the way. Reserve a car ahead of time.
http://www.burgundytoday.com/touring...rands-crus.htm

It would also be nice if you could visit Lyon, where the food is much better than anything you'll find in Paris.
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Old May 31st, 2017, 09:11 PM
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Thank you so much!!

StCirq, we have 2 weeks in Paris and a week to explore the regions. Technically have 7-10 more days but kind of a wild card right now as we haven't solidified where to allot those precious days. .. we're choosing carefully!! Amsterdam is very high on the list and Croatia or stay in Paris 3 whole weeks.

When do the Christmas markets start? Any chance mid to late Nov?

Absolutely yes on the pretty and pazzaz! Wine-wise, I like trying different types but veer more towards crisp, dry whites...sauvignon blanc, bold smooth peppery cabernet sauvignony types, a not so buttery chardonnay that doesn't linger if I could find a good one that's usually a fail for me. Wish I could describe better but really the wine is bonus from everything else that's there to see Any tips shipping wine back?

fuzzbucket, I'd love to hear your favorite restaurants in Lyon!

Thank you again. I'll have more questions still researching everything. I think train there then renting car might work better. Any chance they might run out of cars when we get there? Don't want to chance that. We definitely want to have a car there.

Balcony or not, so excited to explore the 11th!
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Old May 31st, 2017, 09:31 PM
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I meant to say when do the Christmas decor start but markets works too.
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Old May 31st, 2017, 10:56 PM
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Le Vivarais and outside of Lyon, Paul Bocuse.

You can Google the cities you want to visit to see when the Christmas decorations go up. Google "Illuminations Noel" or "Marches de Noel" in any city.
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Old May 31st, 2017, 11:42 PM
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Pavillon Bastille was my worst experience of last year in paris.
The staff was awful the evening and bad in the morning.
The night guy didn't even indicate the stairs when I asked he kept pointing to the lift. And he nearly yelled when I started opening all the doors - but I found the stairs. The room was noisy. The deception was worse because I often cycle from Bastille to gate de Lyon and each time I told myself how lovely it looked.
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Old Jun 1st, 2017, 05:59 AM
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We just did {2} three night stays at Hotel Le Mareuil on Rue de Malte, off Republique and Voltaire. hotelmareuil.com

We thoroughly enjoyed staying in the 11th [our 6th trip to Paris] and it felt removed from the usual tourist hubbub and more like an area where people lived more than other single digit arrondissments.

We had 2 different rooms -- a standard and a superior. The room sizes were quite good for both with night stands on each side of bed, good size wardrobe, safe and the bathrooms both had stand up, glass enclosed showers that had rain fall shower heads. Neither had tub, just the shower. Towels and linens were high quality.

The shower in standard room was a bit small but was nice. The shower in the superior was large & roomy and a lovely window [with good covering] next to the sink. Superior room was #14 and I believe the standard was #33 on the 5th floor - no views per se but of the typical Paris rooftops. Good soundproofing at night, a quiet street. There is some construction on a hotel renovation next door, but we were out all day so no issue.

The beds were comfortable and were kings in both, perhaps a queen in standard?

The hotel was clean, well run, friendly staff and the breakfast was quite good. The staff even got me a birthday pastry from the corner patisserie with a candle!

It was included in our deal for superior room but not for standard room. I would not pay for it if not included; their are many places close by for a coffee and croissant. There is also a laundromat just up the street where you can easily do laundry [we travel carry on only and it is great to be able to do laundry so close by].

There is an exercise room and a hammam too! Elevator is a good size.

Another fodorite stayed there earlier this year, with the same good experience.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND Hotel Le Mareuil!
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Old Jun 1st, 2017, 07:56 AM
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we've just returned from France and the Loire was one of the areas we went. We rented a car in Bordeaux and drove up to the Loire. we stayed 2 nights in Chinon, and 3 nights outside of Amboise. you need a car for this area. We visited numerous wineries and Chateaux. We dropped the car off at St. Pierre de Corps, which is just outside of Tours, and took the TGV to Paris (Gare Montparnesse). it was quite easy.
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Old Jun 1st, 2017, 09:12 AM
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Shipping wine back is almost always more of a PITA than it's worth. Just drink it while you're there.

Sounds like the Loire would be a good area for wines you enjoy.

Use the local official websites to figure out when the Christmas markets open and close.

I would never worry about anyone "running out"of cars. They can always get one driven to them from somewhere else.
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