Paris - Dordogne - Paris: Another 20 Matchless Days!
Oct 20th, 2011, 02:19 PM
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Paris - Dordogne - Paris: Another 20 Matchless Days!
Our trip to France in late September, early October proved to be another excellent one, thanks to the help of Fodorites. You know who you are! And you are so great and so patient.
I've been circling around this trip report for over a week, but won't be able to write much of it, until my latest bout of arthritis/carpel tunnel involvement decides to leave my right hand.
(can't play the piano either, but then I never could!)
So this is just a thank you to all, and a general impression, started after a few Advil.
France was wonderful, with weather almost too hot the first week or ten days. Our trip on Air France, Premium Voyageur proved to be worth it to us. DH is a big guy and I am a squirmer on airplanes.
DH decided France was OK this time, because I planned a lot of things just for him. (Got a little advice from you guys on that too.) I especially planned to stay as centrally as possible, despite my desire to get to the outer reaches of Paris, wooed by Kerouac!!
We stayed at great places, as follows:
Hotel de Lutece, Ile St. Louis, for the first three days. It, and sister hotel, the Deux Iles, are excellent, with friendly staff and great location. Seem to be catering to Americans though, which I don't love, even though I am one.
Then a week in a house near Lalinde, in the western Dordogne, I think called the Perigord Pourpre, (for the wine?) It is owned by acquaintances, and was rented by four couples, including us. Managed by Strictly Perigord, which is a good place for rentals.
DH and I left our friends and went back to Domaine de la Rhue, near Rocamadour, to stay with the Jooris family who proved to be as charming as they were 15 years ago. Definitely to be recommended.
On our way back to Paris, we stayed at the d"Angleterre in Bourges, in the medieval middle, and saw the magnficent cathedral. A super hotel, with a brand new bathroom the size of the bedroom, which was not small. The shower would hold six people, (but why? you might ask) GREAT staff, most accommodating.
We spent our last night in Barbizon, resting from the road trip, at Les Pleiades, and if I ever go to Paris again, I will want to spend a weekend out there. It's the french countryside, and an artists' colony as you hope for in your dreams. But the hotel offered a massage (about $100, the same as at most spas in the northeast) which I sorely needed after steering DH wrong and getting lost in Fontainebleau, with no idea where I was.
Then we spent a week in an apartment on the Ile St. Louis, through Guest Apartment Services. Very nice guys manage this group of about 45 apartments, and do a great job.
Only other recommendation before my hand goes numb is Shuttle Inter, which we used, grace a GraceJoan, which we found totally reliable and pleasant. (E55 in to Paris, and E50 back out to CDG)
More about all of this, and much much more (as they say) including the terrors of picking up a rental car in the middle of Paris, AND driving it out of town. And the joys of the Dordogne gardens, and food, and rivers and sun. and driving BACK through the city of Paris. And running around in the metro. And surprise eating. When the hand gets better...
I've been circling around this trip report for over a week, but won't be able to write much of it, until my latest bout of arthritis/carpel tunnel involvement decides to leave my right hand.
(can't play the piano either, but then I never could!)
So this is just a thank you to all, and a general impression, started after a few Advil.
France was wonderful, with weather almost too hot the first week or ten days. Our trip on Air France, Premium Voyageur proved to be worth it to us. DH is a big guy and I am a squirmer on airplanes.
DH decided France was OK this time, because I planned a lot of things just for him. (Got a little advice from you guys on that too.) I especially planned to stay as centrally as possible, despite my desire to get to the outer reaches of Paris, wooed by Kerouac!!
We stayed at great places, as follows:
Hotel de Lutece, Ile St. Louis, for the first three days. It, and sister hotel, the Deux Iles, are excellent, with friendly staff and great location. Seem to be catering to Americans though, which I don't love, even though I am one.
Then a week in a house near Lalinde, in the western Dordogne, I think called the Perigord Pourpre, (for the wine?) It is owned by acquaintances, and was rented by four couples, including us. Managed by Strictly Perigord, which is a good place for rentals.
DH and I left our friends and went back to Domaine de la Rhue, near Rocamadour, to stay with the Jooris family who proved to be as charming as they were 15 years ago. Definitely to be recommended.
On our way back to Paris, we stayed at the d"Angleterre in Bourges, in the medieval middle, and saw the magnficent cathedral. A super hotel, with a brand new bathroom the size of the bedroom, which was not small. The shower would hold six people, (but why? you might ask) GREAT staff, most accommodating.
We spent our last night in Barbizon, resting from the road trip, at Les Pleiades, and if I ever go to Paris again, I will want to spend a weekend out there. It's the french countryside, and an artists' colony as you hope for in your dreams. But the hotel offered a massage (about $100, the same as at most spas in the northeast) which I sorely needed after steering DH wrong and getting lost in Fontainebleau, with no idea where I was.
Then we spent a week in an apartment on the Ile St. Louis, through Guest Apartment Services. Very nice guys manage this group of about 45 apartments, and do a great job.
Only other recommendation before my hand goes numb is Shuttle Inter, which we used, grace a GraceJoan, which we found totally reliable and pleasant. (E55 in to Paris, and E50 back out to CDG)
More about all of this, and much much more (as they say) including the terrors of picking up a rental car in the middle of Paris, AND driving it out of town. And the joys of the Dordogne gardens, and food, and rivers and sun. and driving BACK through the city of Paris. And running around in the metro. And surprise eating. When the hand gets better...
Oct 20th, 2011, 07:10 PM
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Just a quick note to say have a look at FMT's new photo essay just posted this evening on "Country Roads, etc."
His photos show the whole lovely area around Barbizon, and how worthwhile and rewarding a day or two in that area would be -- and he's making me cry that we didn't stay in that area longer!
His photos show the whole lovely area around Barbizon, and how worthwhile and rewarding a day or two in that area would be -- and he's making me cry that we didn't stay in that area longer!
Oct 21st, 2011, 03:14 AM
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Barbizon is an amazing little place. Hidden away as it is in the middle of the Fontainebleau forest, it always struck me as the sort of village where Little Red Riding Hood might live, explaining her obligation to walk through thick woods at the wrong time.
Oct 21st, 2011, 06:19 PM
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Well I'd better get writing before I forget it all.
Air France Premium Voyageur was just fine, arrived on time, got some Euros at an ATM, met our driver from Shuttle Inter and off we went to Ile St. Louis to our hotel: Hotel de Lutece on rue Saint Louis en l'Ile We left our luggage there as room was not ready so early in the morning, but we knew that.
Our friend was staying at the sister hotel, the Deux Iles, so we had planned to go to her room to freshen up (lucky break)
anxious to begin to re-acquaint with Paris, we three went out for a walk. Friend ( hereinafter "G") wanted to make a haircut appointment in the Marais, so we had a mission!
G had spent several weeks in Paris two years ago studying French, so she had some knowledge of the area. I loved it, cuz we got right in to the rhythm of Paris, and it felt really good to start "flaneur-ing" around Paris.
We had a nice lunch at Bourguignon du Marais, just because it looked good, and was on our route.
can't remember what we had but it was delicious, and the weather was fine. A great beginning to our trip. back at the hotel, our room was ready, and was very agreeable, small, with a much larger than expected bathroom. (big enough to have storage for our suitcases!) nice shower, comfortable beds, really pleasant staff.
We unpacked, took a shower, walked some more... I must say, Ile Saint Louis did very soon feel like a small town, and was extremely pleasant to walk around, window shopping was fun ( lots of very good dress and accessory shopping here, I could have spent a lot of money!) Also lots of restaurants, some touristy, probably all overpriced. we did suss out some really good ones. About that more later.
We had dinner that evening at Fixia, right next door to Bourguignon du Marais, on rue Francois Miron, and another light but delicious meal.
Sorry I am fuzzy on details of the first few days. I'll chalk it up to jet lag, but I was also so happy to be back in Paris that I just wanted to experience it and not record it. I'm sure many can understand.
Day one has been long, and I hope to shorten it up to important info from now on.
Air France Premium Voyageur was just fine, arrived on time, got some Euros at an ATM, met our driver from Shuttle Inter and off we went to Ile St. Louis to our hotel: Hotel de Lutece on rue Saint Louis en l'Ile We left our luggage there as room was not ready so early in the morning, but we knew that.
Our friend was staying at the sister hotel, the Deux Iles, so we had planned to go to her room to freshen up (lucky break)
anxious to begin to re-acquaint with Paris, we three went out for a walk. Friend ( hereinafter "G") wanted to make a haircut appointment in the Marais, so we had a mission!
G had spent several weeks in Paris two years ago studying French, so she had some knowledge of the area. I loved it, cuz we got right in to the rhythm of Paris, and it felt really good to start "flaneur-ing" around Paris.
We had a nice lunch at Bourguignon du Marais, just because it looked good, and was on our route.
can't remember what we had but it was delicious, and the weather was fine. A great beginning to our trip. back at the hotel, our room was ready, and was very agreeable, small, with a much larger than expected bathroom. (big enough to have storage for our suitcases!) nice shower, comfortable beds, really pleasant staff.
We unpacked, took a shower, walked some more... I must say, Ile Saint Louis did very soon feel like a small town, and was extremely pleasant to walk around, window shopping was fun ( lots of very good dress and accessory shopping here, I could have spent a lot of money!) Also lots of restaurants, some touristy, probably all overpriced. we did suss out some really good ones. About that more later.
We had dinner that evening at Fixia, right next door to Bourguignon du Marais, on rue Francois Miron, and another light but delicious meal.
Sorry I am fuzzy on details of the first few days. I'll chalk it up to jet lag, but I was also so happy to be back in Paris that I just wanted to experience it and not record it. I'm sure many can understand.
Day one has been long, and I hope to shorten it up to important info from now on.
Oct 23rd, 2011, 12:17 PM
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After we slept for 10 hours, days 2 and 3 were a little less fuzzy.
I had a couple of things planned to keep DH happy that he agreed to come to Paris with me. (To be fair, it wasn't that tough a sell!)
It was late September and the weather was cooperating, so we set off, admittedly late morning, due to that great sleep.
We stopped for fresh squeezed OJ at the fruit shop (which was to become a frequent stop) and I picked up a chocolate croissant, and off we went to the Place des Vosges.
(We had decided that, much as we liked the Hotel de Lutece, E 13 for a breakfast seemed excessive, tho' I think it is the norm for Paris)
Our goal was the Musee Victor Hugo. DH is a big fan of Hugo, and I thought I was martyring myself to waste time there, but as usual, I was wrong.
It is a beautiful house, full of memorabilia of Hugo, and of his poetry and art works! Who knew? We were both fascinated for a couple of hours by this house, and I do not hesitate to recommend it to anyone who would like to be immersed in Hugo's life and his period of history. He was also quite a renegade, and Human Rights activist, and apparently revered (still) by the French. I had never noticed before how many references there are, all around Paris, to Victor Hugo.
I never knew about his reputation as a poet, but the French revere him for poetry, while in the US, he is much better known for his novels, like Les Miserables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame.
It is also always a great pleasure to walk around the Place des Vosges, bien sur!
We then wandered the Village Saint Paul, and ended up having lunch at CRU. There is a nice courtyard, and lunch was good, not great. To be fair, it was late in the lunch hour, and I was glad they were still open, service was fine, but we were about the only people there. I think that always changes the ambience, and I wouldn't hesitate to eat there again.
A further walk around the Marais almost did DH in, so I sent him back to the hotel, cuz I couldn't resist more of Paris. Walking down the rue de Rivoli I spotted a Monoprix, where I bought a couple of inexpensive scarves. I felt almost compelled to have Parisian scarves, even though I'd brought some from home.
That evening we dined with friends who come to Paris often, at an interesting place called Le Cigale Recamier, 4, rue Recamier, 75007 - 01 45 48 86 58.
This is the restaurant where you can have a souffle for every course!! I didn't but it's a great idea, and the two souffles I did have were absolutely delicious. This seems not to be a tourist restaurant at all, as I didn't hear anything but French being spoken, (except by us!!)
Our first metro ride home to Ile St. Louis (well, to Pont Marie) was accomplished by earlier buying carnets for each of us. We had decided it was the best bet for just three days in Paris, and we could buy them at the tabac, right near the hotel.
By the way, earlier in the day, my friend G handed me a very nice gift: It was the small Red book called "Paris Arrondissements" (about 4" by 6") EDITION COUTAREL. This little life saver has maps of all the streets, metros, etc. in it, but in very small, but readable form, making it easily accessible and a breeze to use. I'd suggest it to anyone who is going to spend time in Paris, as the best map possible.
She said this particular edition is the best. She got it at The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore, and English language bookstoe on 22, rue St. Paul, (though it's also available elsewhere.) I went there later and enjoyed talking to the owners. Great selection by the way.
www.theredwheelbarrow.com
Thus ends Day 2. More later as the pain in the wrist is receding.
I had a couple of things planned to keep DH happy that he agreed to come to Paris with me. (To be fair, it wasn't that tough a sell!)
It was late September and the weather was cooperating, so we set off, admittedly late morning, due to that great sleep.
We stopped for fresh squeezed OJ at the fruit shop (which was to become a frequent stop) and I picked up a chocolate croissant, and off we went to the Place des Vosges.
(We had decided that, much as we liked the Hotel de Lutece, E 13 for a breakfast seemed excessive, tho' I think it is the norm for Paris)
Our goal was the Musee Victor Hugo. DH is a big fan of Hugo, and I thought I was martyring myself to waste time there, but as usual, I was wrong.
It is a beautiful house, full of memorabilia of Hugo, and of his poetry and art works! Who knew? We were both fascinated for a couple of hours by this house, and I do not hesitate to recommend it to anyone who would like to be immersed in Hugo's life and his period of history. He was also quite a renegade, and Human Rights activist, and apparently revered (still) by the French. I had never noticed before how many references there are, all around Paris, to Victor Hugo.
I never knew about his reputation as a poet, but the French revere him for poetry, while in the US, he is much better known for his novels, like Les Miserables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame.
It is also always a great pleasure to walk around the Place des Vosges, bien sur!
We then wandered the Village Saint Paul, and ended up having lunch at CRU. There is a nice courtyard, and lunch was good, not great. To be fair, it was late in the lunch hour, and I was glad they were still open, service was fine, but we were about the only people there. I think that always changes the ambience, and I wouldn't hesitate to eat there again.
A further walk around the Marais almost did DH in, so I sent him back to the hotel, cuz I couldn't resist more of Paris. Walking down the rue de Rivoli I spotted a Monoprix, where I bought a couple of inexpensive scarves. I felt almost compelled to have Parisian scarves, even though I'd brought some from home.
That evening we dined with friends who come to Paris often, at an interesting place called Le Cigale Recamier, 4, rue Recamier, 75007 - 01 45 48 86 58.
This is the restaurant where you can have a souffle for every course!! I didn't but it's a great idea, and the two souffles I did have were absolutely delicious. This seems not to be a tourist restaurant at all, as I didn't hear anything but French being spoken, (except by us!!)
Our first metro ride home to Ile St. Louis (well, to Pont Marie) was accomplished by earlier buying carnets for each of us. We had decided it was the best bet for just three days in Paris, and we could buy them at the tabac, right near the hotel.
By the way, earlier in the day, my friend G handed me a very nice gift: It was the small Red book called "Paris Arrondissements" (about 4" by 6") EDITION COUTAREL. This little life saver has maps of all the streets, metros, etc. in it, but in very small, but readable form, making it easily accessible and a breeze to use. I'd suggest it to anyone who is going to spend time in Paris, as the best map possible.
She said this particular edition is the best. She got it at The Red Wheelbarrow bookstore, and English language bookstoe on 22, rue St. Paul, (though it's also available elsewhere.) I went there later and enjoyed talking to the owners. Great selection by the way.
www.theredwheelbarrow.com
Thus ends Day 2. More later as the pain in the wrist is receding.
Oct 23rd, 2011, 05:38 PM
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Day Three was really fun, as we decded to take the Batobus for the day. I had spotted the Batobus stop, quite near the Ile, on the day before, so it was easy to find.
first we went down to the end of the Ile to the St.Regis cafe where we had a nice OJ, cafe creme, and croissant for E 7.
The Batobus is great fun, try it! we first rode down to the Eiffel Tower, got off and wandered around that area. We had decided just to wander at various stops and not rush around. (After all, we were coming back to Paris for a whole week!)
We wandered down to the Musee Branly, especially to see the wall of garden. (You will find that this trip was heavily skewed toward gardens.) Actually, all I wanted to see was the gardens, but we
discovered there was a welcoming coffee house in the garden, so we stopped for a coffee, and then walked along the Seine looking at the Musee Branly's outdoor photography exhibit.
Back on the Batobus down the river we went, seeing all the sights we remembered from past trips.
We had planned to get off at the Jardiniere des Plantes, but decided to go back to the start where there was a restaurant that we wanted to try. (As I look back over my notes I think all we did was eat!)
That was a mistake, because although we had a great lunch, we always seemed to realize how tired we were once we sat down, (to say nothing of the wine we drank with lunch!) so after lunch we went back to take a nap!
The lunch was outdoors at Chez Julien, and was delicious. (1,rue du Pontiac Louis-Philippe, 01 42 78 31 64).
We each had a light delicious lunch: I had smoked salmon with green apple batons, served on watercress, while DH had teriaki (sp?) gambas with avocado sauce. lovely light white wine, marvelous bread, good French butter, eaten outside in great weather, with some music played by passing musicians - boy oh boy - what could be better?
Dinner that night was at a super restaurant on the Ile St. Louis, called Mon Vieil Ami, where you order fascinating combinations of vegetables, and the protein is in the small print, rather than the other way around. More about that when I find my notes.
first we went down to the end of the Ile to the St.Regis cafe where we had a nice OJ, cafe creme, and croissant for E 7.
The Batobus is great fun, try it! we first rode down to the Eiffel Tower, got off and wandered around that area. We had decided just to wander at various stops and not rush around. (After all, we were coming back to Paris for a whole week!)
We wandered down to the Musee Branly, especially to see the wall of garden. (You will find that this trip was heavily skewed toward gardens.) Actually, all I wanted to see was the gardens, but we
discovered there was a welcoming coffee house in the garden, so we stopped for a coffee, and then walked along the Seine looking at the Musee Branly's outdoor photography exhibit.
Back on the Batobus down the river we went, seeing all the sights we remembered from past trips.
We had planned to get off at the Jardiniere des Plantes, but decided to go back to the start where there was a restaurant that we wanted to try. (As I look back over my notes I think all we did was eat!)
That was a mistake, because although we had a great lunch, we always seemed to realize how tired we were once we sat down, (to say nothing of the wine we drank with lunch!) so after lunch we went back to take a nap!
The lunch was outdoors at Chez Julien, and was delicious. (1,rue du Pontiac Louis-Philippe, 01 42 78 31 64).
We each had a light delicious lunch: I had smoked salmon with green apple batons, served on watercress, while DH had teriaki (sp?) gambas with avocado sauce. lovely light white wine, marvelous bread, good French butter, eaten outside in great weather, with some music played by passing musicians - boy oh boy - what could be better?
Dinner that night was at a super restaurant on the Ile St. Louis, called Mon Vieil Ami, where you order fascinating combinations of vegetables, and the protein is in the small print, rather than the other way around. More about that when I find my notes.
Oct 24th, 2011, 06:06 AM
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Thanks to Tdudette, denisea, St.cirq and Kerouac for reading this, but I feel it's kind of a dull report so far. I hope I can make it more valuable as it goes on, and gets a little more interesting, but maybe not worthwhile pursuing???
Oct 24th, 2011, 07:22 AM
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No, don't stop! I am here! I have been busy with grandchildren and have not had a moment to post. And, I am anxiously awaiting for the post-Paris part. It is not dull at all!
The Paris portion of our recent trip was my least favorite part...so, that is another reason I have not responded. But, I have been waiting for your report, along with many others I am sure, so you MUST go on!
Thanks!!
The Paris portion of our recent trip was my least favorite part...so, that is another reason I have not responded. But, I have been waiting for your report, along with many others I am sure, so you MUST go on!
Thanks!!
Oct 24th, 2011, 07:32 PM
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OK - thanks all for the encouragement.
Tomorrow I'll get back to writing, as things heat up:
PICKING UP A RENTAL CAR IN CENTRAL PARIS
And A tete a tete with a VERY handsome Frenchman (well, brief)
NEAR DISASTER ON THE AUTOROUTE SOUTH
Tomorrow I'll get back to writing, as things heat up:
PICKING UP A RENTAL CAR IN CENTRAL PARIS
And A tete a tete with a VERY handsome Frenchman (well, brief)
NEAR DISASTER ON THE AUTOROUTE SOUTH
Oct 25th, 2011, 10:51 AM
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First of all, let me clean up my last entry, or rather, finish it.
Since Mon Vieil Ami, the restaurant on the Ile St. Louis, was so unusual, I thought some people might like to hear a bit more:
The chef is Alsatian, so the food slants that way, as does the wine list. OK with us, as DH is very fond of Alsatian wines, always in memory of a wonderful week we spent in Alsace many years ago, which included a wine tasting with Jean Hugel.
At this restaurant, vegetables are given the "utmost attention."
An interesting and desirable slant, given that we were already experiencing more calories than is our normal fare, and were expecting to experience even more such overload, as we were headed to the Dordogne!
Menu includes such dishes as an Herbed risotto, with a small piece of roasted fish; or Braised Turnips and Bok Choy, accompanied by a reasonably-sized, delicious lamb chop.
A very imaginative menu, in a sleek contemporary space, with excellent unstuffy service, and by the way, a long communal table.
The communal table is a godsend for people dining alone, who would rather sit with someone. They do take reservations for this table, and very lively conversation seemed to be going on there.
Since Mon Vieil Ami, the restaurant on the Ile St. Louis, was so unusual, I thought some people might like to hear a bit more:
The chef is Alsatian, so the food slants that way, as does the wine list. OK with us, as DH is very fond of Alsatian wines, always in memory of a wonderful week we spent in Alsace many years ago, which included a wine tasting with Jean Hugel.
At this restaurant, vegetables are given the "utmost attention."
An interesting and desirable slant, given that we were already experiencing more calories than is our normal fare, and were expecting to experience even more such overload, as we were headed to the Dordogne!
Menu includes such dishes as an Herbed risotto, with a small piece of roasted fish; or Braised Turnips and Bok Choy, accompanied by a reasonably-sized, delicious lamb chop.
A very imaginative menu, in a sleek contemporary space, with excellent unstuffy service, and by the way, a long communal table.
The communal table is a godsend for people dining alone, who would rather sit with someone. They do take reservations for this table, and very lively conversation seemed to be going on there.
