What a great trip! I had not been there in over 10 years, and it was a good to go back.
Had a good flight to CDG with exit row seats. We went to the RER B ticket center and had about a 25 minute wait. Got a carnet too. Took the RER B to St Michel and walked to out apt at 41 Rue mazarine.
It was a homey little place with a bedroom and little kitchen with a tumble dryer. It had all the stuff we would need. The owner's daughter, she was great BTW, showed us how to do the tumble dryer.
. The best part of the place was the location. We could lterally walk about 50 ft to about anything you would want. We had a large window overlooking the street and we loved to people watch.
Took a little snoozer, and then went out to walk around the most gorgeous city in the world. The weather was wonderful and it was a perfect day.
They had a small Carrefour around the corner and got our fab French food. They had a Paul's right next door, so that was our baguette place all week. Amorinos across the street. Did I say it was a great location? We were not too hungry, our body clocks were off, so we just went to Leons for moules and frites... good and moderately priced.
Next day, we just walked from our place to the Eiffel Tower via the Champs Elysee.
Of course, sat in the chairs near the fountains in Tuilerries. I loved that...one of my faves. Walked about 7 miles, but hey it was so wonderful to see all the stuff I loved so much again. Came back took a rest, and went to our little Italian restaurant across the street from our apt. It was very simple and good, Cesars Pizza Cafe.
Next day was the 2 day Museum pass day..so we did the Louvre for a few hours and the the Conciergerie and St Chapelle.
Can't do more than a few hours of the Louvre, and we had not been to St Chapelle and the Conciergerie. St Chapelle was beyond beautiful, and the Conciergerie was interesting. Went to Cafe Buci that night. Decent cafe fare, but GREAT people watching.
BTW, pardon my French spellings.
I will continue this later.
Paris and Bayeux: A Trip Report
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Ah yes, the Tuileries chairs...so delightful! Same with the ones at the Luxembourg Gardens. Doesn't get better than that!
Your apartment sounds charming; superb location too. Nice to have so much nearby.
I look forward to the next installment.
Thanks, Judyrem, and welcome home!
Sounds like you took things nice and casual enjoying every moment! Looking forward to more.
If you'd like a little nostalgia for the chairs in the Tuileries:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHYC6SYI-9Q
Our apartment in November was on rue de Seine....we loved the neighborhood, too!! Can't wait to hear more.
Great start. Looking forward to the rest. Thanks for posting. It's hard work, especially when you're still recovering from jetlag.
Love it Judy. Please tell us more.
Things start so much better when the weather is perfect the first day.
Looking forward to more to enjoy as I enjoyed the start!
I would love to see your apt - can you provide a link?
Looking forward to more!
Thanks for good comments.
.

Yes, everything is better when the weather is perfect on the first day! We had THE best weather. It was wonderful.
The next day on the Museum card, we decided to do some smaller museums. We went to Musee Nissim de Comando....and we loved it. It was such a gorgeous mansion and filled with beautifully fantastic furniture and art. The history of the family was quite tragic, but his house is now a testimony to his character. My DH and I liked it the bestof all, because it gave a small slice of life of a wealthy Jewish business man.
Next was Musee Jaquemart- Andre. It was great, but not as fine as Nissim de Comando. Both of these were a welcome respite from the crazy crowds of the Louvre. On the way back to the left bank, we stopped in the Louvre, because we did not see Napoleon III's apts the day before. I had to see them, and because it was a nice day, the crowds had thinned out. BTW, that is one thing I noticed for the Louvre, is the nicer the weather the smaller the crowds.
On the way back to our rooms after being Museumed out, we stopped to see the Monet's water Lilies at the l'Orangerie, it only took about 30 minutes and it was worthwile IMO.
Our brains were overstimulated and ready to shut down with some wine, cheese and olives.
Man we were tired, (but much smarter
That night, Fish, moderately expensive but good.
Did I mention we had a great location?
Looking forward to reading more of your report, glad you had a great time in Paris.
Ah yes, sitting in the chairs at the fountain in the Tuileries:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/creativeapps/slideShow/Main.jsp?token=698801745803%3A2058661483&sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail-_-Share-_-Photos-_-Sharer
Thanks for the great report. I am leaving May 4 for a 4 week trip which will include 16 days in Paris. which without a doubt other than my home city of New York is my favorite city in the world.
Your trip report is reminding me of some of the reasons that I love Paris.
Looking forward to more.
Also thanks to PATRICKLONDON for that great link to Jean Sablon.
tdk, you are SOOOOOOO lucky, I envy you. God, Paris is great!!!!!
Wonderful Judyrem. Will you post the apartment site, svp?
Judy, thanks for the great report. As you know, I will be going to Paris and Bayeux on June 6. Did you stay at the Hotel d'Argouges in Bayeux? That is where I am staying. Looking forward to reading more of your wonderful trip!
http://www.vrbo.com/56871


here is the site for Hazel and Tdudette.
BTW, it is not as glamorous as stated, but it is very "authentic" in a 200 year old building.
They had a great coffee maker BTW. And the tumble dryer worked well. I must have a tumble washer dryer in an apt from now on. I would not stay here in the summer without aircon. When the soundproof windows are closed it was fine, when open, just a wee bit loud too loud.
Next day after Museum day, we did Pere Lachaise Cemetery. It was fascinating. The day before was when the Polish President's plane crashed, so there were lots of flowers and flags on Chopin's grave. This was a laid back, just walk kind of anywhere kind of day.....Tuileries again, little side streets, just "being there". Tod, it was a just perfect kind of lazy day.
Went back to our Cesar Restaurant.
Next day was our last before leaving for Bayeux, did the Marais district and Musee de Carnevalet. It was a wonderful Musuem and it was FREE. Had a picnic lunch in a little square and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. We walked around Place de Vosges, and just checked out the Marais in general. My DH found a little square he thought would be great to stay in next time.
Judy, you mention dining at Fish. It's owned by the same people who own Derniere Gout, the wine bar where we've held a couple of Paris GTGs and is pretty easy to get to. I'm thinking it might be an alternative to Bouillon Racine in case they have something else going on that night.(As a person with bad knees, I prefer to give people the option to stand or sit during GTGs) Do you have any idea whether they're open in the 5 p.m. time slot and what's your opinion on the space holding a cocktail crowd of around 15? As I recall there is a bar and then trestle tables, right? Would it be an acceptable alternative to Bouillon Racine in case there's a problem getting into the latter? Thanks. Julie
Looking forward to hearing more about your trip.
The apartment looks nice. How was that shower to use? We had one in another place and the hose was so short that it was very ackward for DH to use. He is not into baths so it was a bit of a problem. I agree, once you had a washer dryer it is mandatory for future apartments.
Suzanne, the tub hose was fine...it did have a shower hose holder, but it was not functioning the way it should, in otherwords it was broken.
Julie, not sure when it is open but it is a "drinking" place, with food, small but charming with Kiwi owners. Give them a ring.
Next day, took the train to Caen. We had no problem at all. Had a Hertz rental waiting, but the office was not near the Europcar, Avis offices, but under the bridge on the side of the gare. Do get there before 12, because they close for 2 hours. We were lucky to get there right before their break.
Had a little trouble finding the road to Bayeux, but we persevered and had no trouble once on the highway.
Once we found Hotel d Argogues, we pulled into the almost empty lot aound 1:15 and went into the reception. Not soul around. Finally a young man came in, greeted us and politely told us we could not check in until 3:00pm. Hmmph, not a good sign. This had me a little peeved off.
SSSSSSooo
we went to tour around the landing sites for a few hours.
The American cemetery was quite overwhelming,,,I was emotionally drained and appreciated the tremendous effort by these brave young men. The visitors center was excellent.
My Dad was on Omaha Beach, and I missed him dreadfully.
Spent 3 hours just wandering around and returned to our hotel after a stop at the Carrefour for wine and snacks.
The young man finally let us check in and we were in room 1. It was supposed to be a superior twin room and I have to say, it was not even close to what I had envisioned. We had one small window and it was quite dark, but the bathroom had a window and it was quite bright. I have to say I was diappointed with the room overall. It had thin towels and no clock and was small. The bathroom only had a tub, with a hand held hose.
I have to say the restaurant the young man recommended, le Rapier was one of the best we had eaten at for the whole trip! Great food. service and price...LOVED it.
Enjoying the report so much, Judy. Welcome home!
Julie, we were in Derniere Goutte a few times in November. I don't recall anywhere in there to sit. Perhaps I am remembering incorrectly or tasted too much wine.
Personally Julie, I think I would like a Cafe Buci type place for a bar/cafe kind of experience. While it is virtually impossible to get an outside table ( have over 30), the pleasant and rather large bar area was nearly empty. My DH would say, when we were passing 3 or 4 times a day, "we could always sit inside?"
Did I say it had terrific people watching?
Judy, I was there, in Derniere Goutte with a bad foot. At that tasting there was no seating.
judyrem, thank you so much for your report.
Judy, you're right about nowhere to sit in Derniere Gout, that's why I'm not crazy about that venue.
Judyrem, thanks for the idea on Cafe Buci. Perfect alternative to Bouillon Racine if we have any problems getting into them or if our group grows much larger. Great idea.
Did I say how much I loved France?
My DH who is a major critic everywhere we go, said he loved France and it's road system...better than the US.
Shocked?! The guy loves France.....my hero!
Hi Judy,
DH and I are staying at the Hotel d'Argouges in June and now I am very worried. What did you think of the hotel? We are in a Superior Double Room. My husband is very tall so I hope the ceilings will be tall enough. I just tried to call the Hotel Churchill to see if they have any availability but they are booked during that time. Did I make a mistake?
Try emailing Rosemary Chilcott and see if they happen to have room left. Given the date you arrive it may be pretty tough but it's worth a try. I've stayed at their B&B three times now.
michaeljohn.chilcott@sfr.fr
Janiekins, I hope you can ask them to give you a better room?
The common rooms are wonderful and the gardens by then will be lovely. I have to say my DH who is 6ft tall, barely made it through the bathroom door. Our room was small, but I think they have larger rooms. How long are you staying?
The next day, we went to Mont St Michel.
OMG that was so magnificent. I had no idea it was going to be a little a village around it! It was very crowded, and I can't imagine what it is like in the high tourist season. My poor meager words can't describe the wonder of the place.
At first, my DH was not really enthused about driving down there., but he relented and was so glad we went.
We drove on the way back through a more rural route, through some small French villages...charming, simply charming.
Then we headed to Point du Hoc.
Very moving, and the scenery was magnificent.
We did not do a tour, because we wanted to spend more time in differant areas. Went La Fingalle, it was fine.
The next day we did the Cathedral, the Tapestry, the British Cemetery and the D-day Museum. The Tapestry was marvelous and I loved the film and the little museum...it is must see!
The Cathedral was wonderful, as was the D-day museum.
On a side note, my DH and I went to a little creperie and I ordered a chevres and rattatouie gallette. He ordered "le cheese-burger" gallette, and got very ill from it. Needless to say, we did not go out to dinner that night.
I had a feeling that by giving less than an laudable review of Hotel D'Argogues would put a damper on my report, but I have to tell the truth as see it.
Nevertheless, we loved Bayeux and had a great time.
Next day, we returned the car in Caen and headed back to Paris.
We stayed at the Hotel Left Bank, we liked it very much.
Charming hotel with great atmosphere in a FAB location. Did a river tour and enjoyed it a lot.
The came the ashes!!!!!!
I did post about our trip back on the Lounge.
Scary stuff.
There are times I believe it is expected for you to ask to see the room and then reject it. Kind of a bait and switch thing to test you!
We rarely complain about our rooms but on the 2 times we did, we were moved without any argument or problem.
Anyone else experience this?
I should have done it tdudette. I sometimes do just that, but not in Europe.
Don't know why I did not!?
Judy, let me know next time you're in Portsmouth...we need to plan lunch. I'm leaving Saturday for Istanbul and will be home 5/16 after a Med cruise.
I think we will be up for Memorial day, but I am not 100% sure.
But I would like to have lunch, that would be fun!
My e-mail's on my profile. We're in town then.
Yes!
Thanks for the trip report...I am planning the same trip - Paris and Bayeaux but we are wanting to take the kids...so will be doing apartments the entire time. Just checked out pictures for the hotel in Bayeaux...it looks charming! too bad it turned out to be not so nice.
Judyrem:
Your trip report is wonderful, thank you for sharing with us. My DH and I will be in France in September and will be in Bayeaux at the end of the trip. Did you take the train back to Paris? If so which train? We need to get to Charles De Gaulle. We are staying at the Marriott our last night.
Thank you.
Hi Judyrem, Thanks for sharing this. It brought back happy memories of our trip to Normandy/Brittany which was a tour with dear friends. It was GREAT!!! Vive la France!
Just wondering if the little square that your husband thought might be nice to stay in in the Marais was Place du Marche Ste. Catherine? If so, we have stayed right on the Place once and on the street parallel to it once. It is a great location and I highly recommend it.