Paris - Musee Marmottan worth it?

I was interested, but didn't get to that museum despite staying for a week. There are so many places that you could see that it's hard to prioritize them. What are your main interests in Paris otherwise?

We love the museums (plan to go to the Cluny, D'Orsay (at least once), Louvre,
Rodin and Picasso. Also love walking, eating and drinking wine!

if impressionism is an interest, by all means include the marmottan.

If you are a huge Monet fan you could fit it in.

However with such a short time I think any impressionism fix you need will be taken care of at the d'Orsay.

You could spend the extra time elsewhere and save the Marmottan for later.

I wouldn't go to the Marmottan instead of the Orsay, but the Marmottan is a very special place if you like the art, and for me it is in my must-see triad with the Louvre and Orsay. I walk into the Marmottan and I immediately start to smile.
But if this is your first trip to Paris and with three days, you will have to make hard choices.

We have been to Paris a few times and last time we were going to the Marmottan but didn't make it.
We are definitely going in March.
I love Monet and want to see the museum, his works, the neighborhood.
With only 3 days, I would probably skip it.
Do try to go to the Louvre AND the D'Orsay! you can go to one on Monday and the other on Tuesday..you will be glad you did

I am in Paris every few months and I do the Marmottan about twice a year. If you love the Impressionists you must go there to see the painting that gave the movement it's name; "Impression Sunrise". Another of my favorites, "The Locomotive" is there and then of course lots and lots of lilly pond works.

Larry J

I was far more overwhelmed by the Andre Jacquemart than the Musee Marmotton. Here's why: I truly think some museums in the US have much better Monets than Marmotton; I also think the Musee d'Orsay does him justice.

I don't want to oversell Andre Jacquemart( Expectations create Disappointment)but the one-two punch of this museum is that in it's own right, the house itself is a wonderful, solid design. The art collection for private collectors with an educated, good eye (no, they truly weren't aiming for fashion) is amazing.

Musee Marmottan lacks that narrative.

If you're only going three days, I would skip the Marmottan. With only three days, you don't want to spend all your time in museums. And, I would certainly put both the d'Orsay and the Louvre higher on the list of must-sees.

I'm with Amelie. I loved the Jacquemart-Andre--went to see it I think thanks to Elaine, and have been back. Was kinda underwhelmed by the Marmottan, but it was a while ago. And, people, can we call it the Orsay? (why would we say "of Orsay"?)

Has the Orangerie reopened? I know I could check, but hoped someone would know first-hand.

I go along with Howard, if only a few days do the D'Orsay

I wouldn't put the Marmottan at the top of a list of favorite museums. It's worth a visit if you've seen everything else you want and have plenty of time, or are a real Monet fan. In three days -- I'm not sure if you've been to Paris before and are looking for things to do or not.

I like Monet quite a bit, but just don't find the Marmottan that great a museum. I think the Monets in it are not his best works.

I'm not all that much a museum person, but I finally visited the Marmottan this summer. Sitting on that bench in the middle of the gallery surrounded by maybe 30 large Monets, how could anyone not be overwhelmed? Please don't scold me for not knowing a good Monet from a great Monet, they are all still Monets for God's sake. And how can you not choke on seeing the actual painting that gave Impressionism it's name???

I'm not saying to go or not, that's up to you. I just wanted to say it literally took my breath away.

The Monet painting "Impression Sunrise" is currently part of the 'Turner Whistler Monet' exhibition at the Grand Palais--I don't know if that exhibit is traveling, and if that particular painting is going with it.

My non-professional opinion is that many of the paintings in the Marmottan are thrilling (to me) because many are Monet's later work, when it's easy to see how he influenced later, even more abstract artists.

I'm in total agreement with Christina. We, too, are huge Monet fans and, except for the opportunity to see Impression Sunrise, we were underwhelmed. Perhaps it is because we've seen so many of his greatest works in other museums in the US and France....especially the great Monet exhibit at the Art Institute of Chicago 10 years ago. Who could ever forget the thrill of seeing that room filled with his water lilies!

I'm not in a great position to answer this, because I'm a huge Monet fan and have seen his works in Washington, DC, the Musée d'Orsay, the Jeu de Paume, the Orangerie, the Prague Museum, the Berlin Museum, and countless others, but with only three days in Paris I would definitely not bother with the Marmottan. It's a very nice museum but not one I'd put on the A-list for a 3-day visit. Go to the third floor of the Musée d'Orsay and feast on the Impressionists there, including Monet.

the word is that the orangerie is scheduled to re-open in 2006--but i'm not holding my breath.

If you're in Paris for just the three days, you can save the Marmottan for another trip if your a Monet fan.

And I'll put in another vote for the Jacquemart-Andre (and the Nissim Camondo, which is very close by). Both are beautiful mansions with wonderful collections. And lunch at the A-J will be a highlight, as will a walk through the nearby Parc Monceau.

I enjoyed the Marmottan when we visited a few years ago. It was in December, the weather was not nice, but it was not hard to get to on the metro and was most certainly worth it. It is a smaller museum which I like. They are much more doable. I would say do it.

I love the Marmottan and have visited nearly every time I have been in Paris. The museum is wonderful if you like Monet and I enjoy visiting the lovely neighborhood in the 16th. However, with 3 days, you have to make some choices and the D'Orsay and the Louvre are musts for a museum lover. After that, if you have time for another museum, I would first visit the Cluny and then the Marmottan. Since it is winter, I would skip the Rodin since its best feature is the gardens. I love the Picasso and the Jacquemart Andre but don't imagine you can get to them in only 3 days.

"Impression/Sunrise" was lent to the Turner/Whistler/Monet exhibition, so I saw it there (and I've never seen it before or been to the Marmottan).

Presumably the painting travels to Tate Britain, so if you've plans to see it over the next couple of months, you should see if it's been returned to the Marmottan. The exhibition closes at the Tate in May, if I recall.

I have been to Paris 3 times and finally visited the Marmottan last time. While not on the scale as the Orsay, it was certainly "worth" a visit. As Patrick and others have mentioned, it is in a lovely neighborhood, and we enjoyed a nice lunch afterwards in a cafe not too far away. The museum will not require more than an hour or so, and if you are especially fond of Monet, it would be a worthwhile stop. One note--it is not on the list of museums that accept the museum pass. I think admission was 7 or 8 euro.
I would definitely go to the Louvre and the Orsay, and if you love sculpture, the Rodin. I have been to the Rodin in winter, spring, and summer, and it is glorious when the roses are in bloom, but still incredibly powerful to see the sculpture garden in the stark winter.

Everyone's comments have been very helpful; we have been to Orsay several times before and though I will squeeze in at least a quick trip there, my husband probably will skip it this time.
So, if we do go to Marmottan, are there nice cafes in the neighborhood where we could have lunch?

A quick question; it's my understanding that 75 paintings in the Marmottan are currently in Washington DC until May. 40 Morisot's and a collection of others. For those who have been to the Marmottan, would this really decimate the collection? I'm going to be in Paris in April and would love to go, but I'm not sure if it is worth it now.

Thanks.

Out of curiosity, I went to the museum's website. Apparently Monet's "Sunrise" did not travel to the Tate and was supposedly returned on Jan. 19 (T/W/M closed the night of Jan. 17).

I don't see a note about paintings being loaned to D.C. It's probably true though.

I was curious enough to click on "Chefs d'Oeuvre." The Caillebotte painting looks awfully familiar (is there a similar one in the Art Institute of Chicago?). Actually there's a famous Caillebotte at Orsay which I missed that features some workers redoing the floors. I forget what that painting is called. I saw a reproduction of it in a book and it's a beautiful painting.

JMK38, there are a number of cafes in the area of the Marmottan. If you plan to take the Metro, the cafes are convenient to the La Muette Metro station, about a 10-minute walk to the Marmottan.
JoTro, the Morisot collection from the Marmottan is indeed in Washington. I love the collection and it would add to the pleasure of a trip to the Marmottan but the Monets are really the draw for me and I would visit despite the absence of the Morisots.

The most famous Caillebotte in Chicago is the large 'Paris Street Rainy Day'.
for a view: http://www.mystudios.com/art/impress/caillebotte/caillebotte-paris.html

I'm a member of the relatively small Caillebotte fan club; several years the Art Institute in Chicago had a marvelous
Caillebotte retrospective.

Oh, I forgot:
Marmottan, Nearby places for lunch or a snack:
La Rotonde de la Muette, 12 Chaussee de la Muette, they have outdoor seating.

Pastry shop--Yamakazi, 6 Chaussee de la Muette. Said to have great hot chocolate, open Sundays.
On the same street is La Gare, an old train station converted to a café.

Restaurant des Chauffeurs, 8 Chaussee de la Muette, From an article I read--
"trucker-sized portions of French comfort food…$25 or so will see you out the door.” Open daily, continous service 5:30 am to 10pm, lunch reservations advised. Credit cards.

Hi elaine, would you mind going to the Marmottan website and looking at the Caillebotte listed in the "Masterpieces" section? Doesn't this look very much like the Art Institute of Chicago painting? I've not looked at it closely and done an A/B comparison, but it looks very similar.

http://www.marmottan.com/fr/chefs_oeuvres/

I'd be interested in knowing if there's a story behind this. Caillebotte was regarded as a somewhat obscure and reclusive painter, if I remember right, until the 1960s (?). And he had an independent career and was quite wealthy, if I recall.

111op, Caillebotte is one of my faves! The museum site says that it is a preparatory sketch for the one in Chicago. I think the English title for the Orsay one is The Floor Scrapers.

Yes, LVSue -- right on both counts. I went back to the website and clicked on the link to the painting because I was so curious.

I've to remember to find the Caillebotte painting at the Orsay when I'm in that museum. The interesting thing is that I've seen a reproduction once. It doesn't seem to be a well-known painting, but Orsay thinks it's a masterpiece.

Hi
There are differences (Marmottan version has indistinct facial features, the final painting (Chicago) has a carriage with a large wheel, over on the left side, etc)As the Marmottan website info says, their painting is an 'exquisite' study for the later larger painting.

The Marmottan text also says that a critic of the time pointed out that some well-known painters tried to reproduce varous aspects of Paris:
M. Caillebotte, its streets; M Renoir, the dance; M Degas, theatre and music halls; Melle Morisot, the boudoir.

Thanks, elaine. This forum is never dull.

Well, I return the thread to the regularly broadcast programming -- like whether you should visit Marmottan, where to eat around Marmottan, etc.

By the way, if I remember right, there're some buildings by Le Corbusier in that area (I've not been, as I said).

for someone who wants to see the
Floor Scrapers
http://www.mystudios.com/art/impress/caillebotte/caillebotte-floor-scrapers.html

If you go to the Orsay, you can't miss that one. On the top floor where all the Impressionists are, it's on a wall facing you as you enter one of the rooms
(as of last week)

It makes me wonder if I've ever been to Orsay, elaine.

I guess that's what happens when you attempt to cover Paris in 24 or 48 or 72 hours. I guess, strictly speaking, I've not really been (the few times I've been it's always been very quick). The last time I was there I saw a special exhibition on the Origins of Abstraction. I guess I'll have to plan to stop by on a future trip.

You've been there, you've been there, there's just never enough time ( on a trip that's less than a week, anyway) to see the old favorites and to see new things. This last time I was only in the Orsay an hour myself, close to closing---very frustrating, but it was that or not at all as it turns out.
The painting I HAD to revisit was
Van Gogh's Church at Auvers, and my TC wanted to see Whistler's Mom. So we got those in, but not much more. And I missed seeing the objets d'art on the first floor--like those too.

I know. I guess that's why I'm always flipping through museum guide books. Fortunately we've those and the web to do a virtual visit. But the real thing is always incomparable.

With only 3 days in Paris, I'd chose to bypass it and hit some of the other spots. Versailles and the Louvre could each take a day not counting Notre Dame, etc.

My reaction to the Marmottan was just like Patricks - I was enthralled. My girlfriend and I went one afternoon after walking around Versailles all morning. We were a bit tired and sat down to rest in the lower floor of the Marmottan. I just kept switching my view - the large canvases have the most amazing colors. It was the absolutely most perfect place to sit and rest a while, and take in all the beauty.

This is my opinion, but I think the Monet's in Marmottan are better than the collection at the Orsay.

I think the Musee Marmottan is a must for Monet lovers. There are some other good works of art there as well by other Impressionists.

The most interesting part for me was a display of several version of the same painting. It was like peering into the artist's mind while he was putting the final painting through multiple drafts.

The viewer could see where Monet was playing with light, shade, color, scope, etc. As the different versions came into view, I could see why he settled on the final version. I wish I could recall the name of the painting!

The other aspect of the visit is to see that part of Paris. The park near the museum is interesting, and pretty.

Now for the other side of the coin. If you don't care for Monet, although people have been committed for lesser offenses, then there are other places to visit in Paris.

But until the archaelogists quit excavating that old wall, or what ever it was and the Water Lillies at the Orangerie reopen, I think Musee Marmottan goes up the scale a ways.

Last I heard, the Orangerie might reopen it 2005; it might not. Anyone have any recent information on this subject.

After years of closure, I bet the place will be swamped with visitors when it finally opens its doors again.

Another thing I like about the Marmottan that can not be found at any other museum is that you can see the transformation Monet made from his popular impressionism to abstract painting late in his life. A lot of the painting done late in his life of the garden and lilly pond at Giverny is abstract.

Larry J

For going to Marmottan, perhpas it would be more fun to take Bus #63, as the museum is less than 5 minutes walk from the final stop. #63 goes through many interesting streets and sites in Paris. I have enjoyed traveling the route for my 5-6 times museum visits.

111op,

The Caillebotte painting you referred to is called The Floor Scrapers -- one of my favorites. We had a print of it over our fireplace for years. I was hoping to see it at the Orsay last time we were there, but it wasn't on display

I love the Marmottan and think you've gotten lots of good feedback, JMK38. Have a great trip!

Some of my fondest memories are "on-the-way-to" discoveries. On the way to the Marmottan in the Jardins de Ranelagh is a wonderful statue of La Fontaine with a fox and a crow. Here also is a great market street idea from an earlier post by BTilke:

if you'd like to find a more authentic, less touristed street market. If you are near the number 10 metro line, you can go out to the Michel-Ange Auteuil metro stop and catch a vibrant, untouristed market Wednesdays and Saturday (mornings, I believe) in an upscale residential neighborhood of the 16th. There is also a LeNotre just off the market square. Or you could stroll down the rue Fontaine about a block to the little street of food shops (fromagerie, poissonerie, boucherie, boulangerie, etc.). Or walk up the Ave. Mozart, more food shops and cafes (we like the Royal Mozart for lunch, the cafe dog's name is Snoopy, FYI) and then continue over toward the Marmottan museum.

Another plus for the Marmottan is that, at least when we were there in March, it wasn't very crowded. So it was possible to see the paintings from various distances relatively unobstructed by other visitors. We sat on the bench in front of the water lilies and looked down the room at other paintings and the difference in perspective was amazing. The problem with the Orsay is that when you step back to view a painting someone either moves to stand in front of you or the masses start passing through.
One side note-the Musee Marmottan is a private museum and therefore does not accept your museum pass. At least when we were there lines weren't a problem .

I agree with what everyone has said. It is a very very small museum. The basement as I will call it has Monet down there. The circle room with his huge paintings is awesome. I could have sat there all day just looking at all his paintings. We probably were there less than 2 hours spending most of it where Monet paintings were. We took the Metro there and walked all the way back to the 1st Arr. It was an awesome walk to see the other areas that we have not seen on our other trips to Paris.
JUST REMEMBER, YOU CANNOT SEE EVERYTHING YOU WILL WANT TO IN 3 DAYS. GIVES YOU A REASON TO GO BACK AGAIN!

I guess it's all a matter of taste. We didn't think the Marmottan could come close matching the d'Orsay, even in the restricted criterion of just Monet's work.
And, as a whole, spending an entire day at the d'Orsay, including lunch in its most elegant dining room, was indeed in the top 3 of experiences during our 2-week stay in Paris. (Giverny was also among the top trio.)

After all of this time, I am reviving this thread because on our most recent trip to Paris (this past weekend) we finally made it to the Marmottan and found it to be one of our favorite things of the whole trip. (Full disclosure: we also
fit in yet another visit to the Orsay....)The Marmottan was lovely in so many respects: the building itself is beautiful, the taxi ride there through the beautiful section of the 16th was a treat and the collection was, I thought, wonderful. The opportunity to see "Impression Sunrise" alone made the trip worthwhile. Also really enjoyed seeing the
Caillebotte and the Morisots. There was a temporary exhibit of Henri Cross works in the ground level space which were worth seeing, but those did not really speak to us the way the impressionists' works on the 1st floor did.
Per Elaine's old suggestion, we had lunch afterward at La Rotonde de Muette, which provided an opportunity to see many fashionable Parisians eating a leisurely lunch on a sunny (but cold) Saturday.
Long-winded way of saying, thank you to all of you who
opined about the Marmottan. Your comments, observations, even
the sidetracked art criticism, really helped. I (and my husband) would say the Marmottan definitely is worth it.

Definitely worth it.

I was there for the second time last October. I just love this museum. But I felt that many paintings I had seen on my first visit were not on display that day. Someone in the gift shop said that paintings were out on exhibit somewhere in Switzerland. Still an amazing collection, and I couldn't get enough of the sunrise painting either. It takes your breath away.

Hey, you ate at Rotonde de la Muette!!

I did so my last time in Paris, I've recommended it here, but seesm too far away for most people. I was staying in the 16th near Seine and wandered up to the area looking for something.

Had a wonderful potage and sole meuniere.

As a note, could take metro and walk to Marmottan, nice park nearby.

I'm a fan of impressionism and I love the Marmottan. I love the area surrounding it (as I recall, there's a little park in front of it) and I love the building itself. I also love that it's not huge and overwhelming; very easy to visit in a couple of hours. I haven't been there in several years, and it's on my list to visit again the next time I'm in Paris.

The 16th has some interesting things to see. If you like Guimard (Art nouveau Metro stations), there are some buildings designed by him, weekly farmer's market near metro Michel-Ange, a very good chocolate shop on rue Mozart,etc..

I liked the Marmottan for the waterlillies, and the fact it is not crowded so you can browse, or just sit and look at the paintings. They had a large retrospective recently.

I also love the Marmottan. To be able to sit, relaxed on a bench and be surrounded by those huge Monets in almost solitude is such a treat. At the D'orsay there are countless people packed all around so you can't clearly view any of the impressionist paintings without them being at least partially obstructed by all those bodies. The Marmottan is often nearly empty.

And yes, it's a lovely walk from the metro. The neighborhood is very pleasant and it's a great way to see some of Paris that you might not otherwise explore.

JMK38 -- I wasn't in on the original post, but how nice of you to come back and let everyone know your experience!

I am another fan of the Marmottan. In addition to enjoying the Monets, I gained a lasting appreciation of Berthe Morisot (a wonderful female Impressionist painter).

I'm so glad you made it to the Marmottan. I think we are so exposed to the Impressionists -- and particularly Monet -- that we don't really "see" them. I think I saw Monet for the first time while sitting in the downstairs room, surrounded by his work.

And put me down as another fan of Berthe Morisot.

I think people often don't go to the Marmottan because it seems far out, when in reality it's really very easy to get to.

I agree with magster, it would be great if more people did this. Can I ask if you enjoyed staying in the 16th and if transport was easy into the city centre?

We did not stay in the 16th - we stayed in the 7th and took a cab to the museum (easy cab ride through some very lovely neighborhoods). I have posted a general trip report entitled
"Paris with a Broken Leg" if you wish to read it.

When I styed in that area, I had made the decision I wanted to move away from the centre and try a different area, and also to have a bit more low-key, local vibe.

Plus, a year/two earlier, my sister was in Paris for a couple of years on an ex-pat deal, and I visited and stayed at her apartment near Metro Michel-Ange in teh 16th. That was a good experience. Farmer's market, local shops, local restos where owner knows you,etc..

So, using Expedia for a quick and cheap deal, found this one:

www.auteuiltoureiffel.com

More of a business hotel, but fine rooms, efficient staff.
My Metro was Mirabeau, about 2 blocks from hotel. Hotel on a quiet side street. Every morning, head to cafe, have petit dejuener, read papaer, plan day. Tnen, across street was Metro. It was interesting to watch the dynamics of the people coming in/out of the cafe.

Most of my touring was done in central Paris, so took Metro every day. When I arrived in Paris, RER+Metro to get to hotel (~12PM I was in my room). I took a couple of Paris Walks tours of Marais,from my cafe to there was <30 mins. Beacuse of the layout of the Metro lines, coming back home took longer. Going back to CDG, took Metro to Montparnasse, then Air France Bus.

I asked front desk for recommendations for restaurants, one I could not find, other was bit upscale, so I ended up walking about 15-20 mins to street I was familiar with from visit with my sister. Had a good choice of restos (thus the Rotonde mentioned above).

My sister also asked for some food products, so went to the Monprix that I visited when I 'lived' there. And, why not a visit to 'my' chocolate shop. I also had one evening when I decided to hang in my neighbourhood, so went to see popular french movie in Passy.

If I walked the two blocks from hotel to Seine, I could see the back of the Eiffel tower. Apart from that, my touring back in the centre.

My one aggravation, not really a complaint, is that I had a list of restos I wanted to try in the centre, but after a day of walking wanted to go back to hotel, drop stuff off, rest, then go to resto. Being out in the 16th, that ook a while.

Hope these ramblings help.

I was actually thinking of this thread recently, b/c I recalled that some thought the Marmottan was utterly skippable. It is - if you are not a fan of Monet, but I still think it's a must-see. In this case, I think it's a situation of knowing what you like and figuring out if it would be worth it to you.

I spent many hours getting to and from a Bosch museum in Holland from Antwerp. Probably only a very few people would think that long of a commute would be worth it. But Bosch is one of my favorite painters and I loved it.